EXPLOSIVES AND DEMOLITIONS

INTRODUCTION: The trouble with chemical books these days, is that they never explain in detail how to make something that you want. Sure, they tell you how the chinese did it in 1500 or ten centuries ago. But now days, that does not help. Even some of the army manuals don't even give you enough information on HOW-TO -DO it. It's a fun game to search out the materials that can be put together to make something go "BOOM". An interesting point to remember that it is much easier to make a big explosion than a small one. It is very difficult for a home expermienter to make a fire-cracker, but a bomb capable of blowing the walls out of a building is easy. You can find what you need in grocery stores, hardware stores, and farm supplies.

Another, but harder place, to get chemi- cals is a chemical supply house. These places can be dangerous to your explosive career because some supply houses were told to report people who buys chemicals in a certain combination. For example; If a person were to buy tolulene, nitric acid, and sulfuric acid would be reported. The reason, those chemicals are the ones used in making Tri-nitro-tolulene (TNT).

* * * WARNING * * *
The actual construction of the devices and materials described in this text are dangerous, even for an experienced chemist. Also, the construction or possession of many of these devices would be in violation of many federal, state, and local laws. The author or authors are not responsible for what damages or trouble that the missuse of the information that is stated herein. Therefore you are responsible for all of your actions that you make. Intended for information purposes only. So, As you can tell this text is not meant to be read by the total IDIOT! Before you attempt at making any of the devices I would suggest that you have some knowledge about chemistry. Remember: SAFTEY FIRST!!!

CHAPTER ONE [LOW EXPLOSIVES]
Low explosive are good for making a loud bang, or to scare the living daylight out of some poor person or even for making booby traps. In this chapter I will explain the making of many different types of low explosives.

BLACKPOWDER
You will need potassium or sodium nitrate, sulfur, and hardwood charcoal. The common name for potassium nitrate is saltpeter. Sodium nitrate is sold at farm supplies under the name of nitrate of soda. It is also called chile salt- peter. Sodium nitrate makes a slightly more powerful black powder but has a disadvantage because it will absorb moisture from the air. So, if you use it then be sure to store it in a dry, air tight container. You also can get sulfur at farm supplies as a wetable powder used for spraying. It is cheap and works well. Some drug stores sell sulfur under the name of flowers of sulfur. If you use nitrate of soda, it will be in the form of little round beads. Bake it in an over at 200 degrees for 10-15 minutes to drive out the moisture. Then dump a cup or two into a blender and switch it on. It will do a beautiful job of reducing it to powder. Buy a bag of charcoal briquettes at a grocery store. Put a few briquettes in a rag and pound with a hammer. Dip the results into the blender, grind, and strain through a tea strainer. Mix by volume: 6 parts potassium or sodium nitrate. 2 parts powdered charcoal 1 part sulfur This mixture will burn if ignited and will explode if ignited while tightly confined. It can be greatly improved , however, by processing it as follows: Moisten with water until it will stick together when pinched between thumb and finger. Press it into a disposable aluminum pie pan. Bake it in a preheated oven at 200 degrees for about 30 minutes. Get it totally dry. Grind into a fin a powder as possible with a mortar and pestle. If you use a blender at this point, there is a danger of explosion. It is not very sensitive to friction or impact, but is very sensitive to sparks. If you followed these directtions, you should have a fine slate-grey powder.

OTHER TYPES OF BLACKPOWDER
Below are eleven black/gun powder formulas. They are more powerful than the ordinary potassium nitrate powder. The only disadvantage (or advantage) is that it is very sensitive to sparks and some leave a corrosive residue. A word of caution, when you decide to make these compounds be careful for some of them might decide to go up just because they want to.

[All chemicals are measured by volume]
1: Potassium perchlorate 69.2% Sulfur 15.4% Charcoal 15.4%
2: Potassium nitrate 70.4% Sulfur 19.4% Sodium sulfate 10.2%
3: Potassium nitrate 64.0% sulfur 12.0% sawdust 17.0% charcoal 7.0%
4: Potassium nitrate 50.0% Ammonium perchlorate 25.0% Sulfur 12.5% charcoal 12.5%
5: Barium nitrate 75.0% Charcoal 12.5% Sulfur 12.5%
6: Sodium peroxide 67.0% Sodium thiosulphate 33.0%
7: Potassium chlorate 75.0% Sulfur 12.5% Charcoal 12.5%
8: Potassium nitrate 79.0% straw charcoal 12.0% sulfur 12.0%
9: Potassium nitrate 70.6% Sulfur 23.5% Antimony sulfate 5.9%
10: Potassium nitrate 37.5% Starch 37.5% Sulfur 18.75% Antimony powder 6.25%
11: Guanidine nitrate 49.0% Potassium nitrate 40.0% Charcoal 11.0%

The above chemical ratios are percentages. When making the stuff, be sure to grind up all the ingredients as fine as you possibly can. The finer you have the chemicals the better it will explode.

ZINC EXPLOSIVE
To make a big flash of flames almost instantly try mixing: 1 part Zinc dust 1 part Sulfur. When these two mix together they will burst into flame almost instantly! Be careful for it does go off in a sudden flash and can singe anything that it is around if not expecting it. This is not a powerful explosive but it is violent even when not confined. So, be careful.

WATER FIRE STARTER
So, do you think water puts out fires? In this one, it starts it. Mixture: ammonium nitrate + ammonium chloride + iodine + zinc dust. When a drop or two of water is added, the ammonium nitrate forms nitric acid which reacts with the zinc to produce hydrogen and heat. The heat vaporizes the iodine (giving off purple smoke) and the ammonium chloride (becomes purple when mixed with iodine vapor). It will ignite the hydrogen and begin burning. Ammonium nitrate: 8 grams Ammonium choride: 1 gram Zinc dust : 8 grams Iodine crystals : 1 gram

EXPLOSIVE MIXTURES
Following is a list of chemicals, most of which can be easily obtained. You will also find the chemical symbol of another chemical which explodes on contact with said chemical. This is useful in making the ever so useful pipe bomb. Just for the people that don't know:

SULFURIC ACID = H2SO4
NITRIC ACID = HNO3
------------------------------------------------------------ CHEMICAL EXPLODES WITH -------- ------------- Acetic acid H2SO4, HNO3 Acetic anhydride " " Acrolein " " Allyl alcohol " " Allyl chloride " " Aniline " " Aniline acetate " " Aniline hydrochloride " " Benzoyl peroxide " " Cyanic acid " " Chlorosulfonic acid " " Dimethyl keytone " " Epichlorohydrin " " Ethylene diamine " " Ethylene imine " " Hydrogen peroxide " " Isoprene " " Mesityl oxide " " ------------------------------------------------------------ Acetone Cyanohydrin H2SO4 Carbon disulfide " Cresol " Cumene " Diisobutylene " Ethylene cyanohydrin " Ethylene glycol " Hydrofluoric acid " ------------------------------------------------------------ Cyanide of sodium HNO3 Cyclohexanol " Cyclohexanone " Ethyl alcohol " Hydrazine " Hydriodic acid " Isopropyl ether " Manganese "

CHAPTER TWO [HIGH EXPLOSIVES]
Now, here I stress the word of saftey. These explosive compounds can remove a limb or kill you. So I would suggest, before you even think about trying any of these, that you have some background knowledge on explosive or chemistry. These explosives range from sound sensitive to water sensitive or electrically ignited. It takes time and patience to make high explosive compounds. Some are easier than the others and some of the chemicals seem almost impossible to find.

In this part, to obtain most of the chemicals needed here you will have to go though a chemical supply house. Remember that some of the chemical houses have been told to notifiy the police if a certian combination of chemicals are ordered then send the name and all the information about that person ordering to the police. And it is possible that you might get a little visit from the city law. Also, making, using, selling, or possession of many of the explosives are illegal and a hard penalty can rise. Even for first offenders. Take this warning. Its true!

ASTROLITE
The astrolite family of liquid explosives were products of rocket propell- ant research in the '60's. Astrolite A-1-5 is supposed to be the world's most powerful non-nuclear explosive at about 1.8 to 2 times more powerful than TNT. Being more powerful it is also safer to handle than TNT(not that it isn't safe in the first place) and Nitroglycerin. "Astrolite G is a clear liquid explosive especially designed to produce very high detonation velocity, 8,600MPS (meters/sec.) ,compared with 7,700MPS for nitroglycerin and 6,900MPS for TNT...In addition,a very unusual characteristic is that it the liquid explosive has the ability to be absorbed easily into the ground while remaining detonable...In field tests, Astrolite G has remained detonable for 4 days in the ground, even when the soil was soaked due to rainy weather know what that means?....Astrolite Dynamite! To make (mix in fairly large container & outside) Two parts by weight of ammonium nitrate mixed with one part by weight 'anhydrous' hydrazine,produces Astrolite G...Feel free to use different ratios Hydrazine is the chemical you'll probably have the hardest time getting hold of. Uses for Hydrazine are: Rocket fuel, agricultural chemicals (maleic hydrazide), drugs (antibacterial and antihypertension), polymerization cata- lyst, plating metals on glass and plastics, solder fluxes, photographic deve lopers, diving equipment. Hydrazine is also the chemical you should be careful with. Astrolite A/A-1-5 ------------------ Ok, here's the good part... Mix 20%(weight) aluminum powder to the ammonium nitrate,and then mix with hydra- zine. The aluminum powder should be 100 mesh or finer. Astrolite A has a de- tonation velocity of 7,800MPS. You should be careful not to get any of the astrolite on you, if it happens though, you should flush the area with water. Astrolite A&G both should be able to be detonated by a #8 blasting cap.

Sodium Chlorate Explosives ------------------------
Potassium chlorate is similar to Sodium chlorate,and in most cases can be a substitute. Sodium chlorate is also more soluble in water. You can find sodium chlorate at Channel or any hardware/home improvement store. It is used in blowtorches and you can get about 3lb.s for about $6.00.

Sodium Chlorate Gunpowder ------------------------- 65% sodium chlorate 22% charcoal 13% sulphur and sprinkle some graphite on top. Rocket Fuel ----------- 6 parts sodium chlorate mixed *THOROUGHLY* with 5 parts rubber cement.
Rocket Fuel 2 (better performance) ---------------------------------- 50% sodium chlorate 35% rubber cement 10% epoxy resin hardener 5% sulphur You may wish to add more sodium chlorate depending on the purity you are using.
Incendiary Mixture ------------------ 55% aluminum powder (atomized) 45% sodium chlorate 5% sulphur Impact Mixture -------------- 50% red phosphorus 50% sodium chlorate Unlike potassium chlorate,sodium chlorate won't explode spontaneously when mixed with phosphorus. It has to be hit to be detonated.
Filler explosive ---------------- 85% sodium chlorate 10% vaseline 5% aluminum powder Nitromethane explosives ---------------------
Nitromethane (CH3NO2) specific gravity:1.139 flash point:95f auto-ignite:785f Derivation: reaction of methane or propane with nitric acid under pressure. Uses: Rocket fuel; solvent for cellulosic compounds, polymers, waxes, fats, etc. To be detonated with a #8 cap,add: 1) 95% nitromethane + 5% ethylenediamine 2) 94% nitromethane + 6% aniline Power output: 22-24% more powerful than TNT. detonation velocity of 6,200MPS.
Nitromethane 'solid' explosives ------------------------------- 2 parts nitromethane 5 parts ammonium nitrate ( solid powder) Soak for 3-5 min. when done,store in an air-tight container. This is supposed to be 30% more powerful than dynamite containing 60% nitrogly- cerin, and has 30% more brisance.

PICRIC ACID
Phenol is melted and then mixed with a concentrated solution of sulfuric acid. The mixture is constatnly stirred and kept at a stedy temperature of 95 degrees celcius for four to six hours, depending on the quanities of phenol used. After this, the acid-phenol solution is diluted with distilled water, and an equal excess amount of nitric acid is added. The mixture of the nitric acid will cause an immediate reaction, which will produce heat, so the addition of the acid must be performed slowly, but more importatly the temperature of the solution must not go above 110 degrees celcius. Ten or so minutes after the addition of nitric acid, the picric acid will be fully formed, and you can drain off the excess acid. It should be filtered and washed in the same manner as above until little or no acid is present. When washing, use only cold wa- ter. After this, the pircic acid should be sllowed to partially dry. Picric acid is a more powerful explosive than TNT, but it has its disadvantages. It is more expensive to make, and it best handled in a wet 10 percent distilled water form, as pictic becomes very unstable when completely dry. This compound should never be put into direct contact with metal, since instantly on contact there is a formation of metal picrate, which explodes spontaneously upon format- ion.

TETRYL
A small amount of dimethyllaniline is dissolved in a excess amount of concentrated sulfuric acid. This mixture is now added to an equal amount of nitric acid. The new mixture is kept in an ice bath, and is well stirred. After about five minutes, the tetrylis filtered and then washed in cold water It is now boiled in fresh water, which contains a small amount of sodium bicarbonate. This process acts to neutralize any remaining acid. The washings are repeated as many times as necessary according to the litmus paper tests. When you are satisfied that the tetryl is free of acids, filter it from the water and allow- ed to dry. When tetryl is detonated, it reacts in very much the same way as TNT.

PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE FROM BLEACH
This explosive is a Potassium chlorate explosive. This explosive and explosives of similar composition were used in WWI as the main explosive filler in grenades, land mines, and morter rounds used by French, German, and some other forces involved in that conflict. These explosives are relatively safe to manufacture. The procedures in the following paragraph can be dangerous if you don't take special care. One should strive to make sure these explosives are free from sulfur, sul- fides, and picric acid. The presence of these compounds result in mixtures that are or can become highly sensitive and possibly decompose explosively while in storage. One should never store home made explosives, make enough for what you need at the time. YOU NEVER KNOW HOW STABLE IT IS UNTIL IT BLOWS! The manufacter of this explosive from bleach is given just as an expediant method. This method of manufacturing potassium chlorate is not economical due to the amount of energy used to boil the solution and cause the "Dissociation" reaction to take place. The procedure does work and yields a relatively pure and a sulfur, sulfide free product. These explosives are very cap sensitive and require only a #3 cap for instigating detonation. To manufacture potassium chlorate from bleach, (5.25% sodium hypochlorite solution), obtain a heat source, hot-plate, stove, etc., a battery hydrometer, a large pyrex or enameled steel container, a triple beam balance (to weigh chem- icals), and some potassium chloride, (sold as salt substitute). Take one gallon of bleach and place it in the container and begin heating it. While this solution heats, weigh out 63 grams potassium chloride and add this to the bleach being heated. Bring this solution to a boil and boil until when checked with a hydrometer the reading is 1.3, (if battery hydrometer is used, it should read FULL charge.) When the reading is 1.3 take the solution and let it cool in the refriger- ator until it is between room temperature and 0 degrees celcius. Filter out the crystals that have formed and save them. Boil this solution again and cool as before. Filter and save the crystals. Take these crystals that have been saved and mix them with distilled water in the following proportions: 56 grams per 100 mililiters distilled water. Heat that solution until it boils and allow to cool. Filter the solution and save the crystals the form upon cooling. This process of purification is called fractional crystalization. These crystals should be relatively pure potassium chlorate. Powder these to the consistancy of face powder and heat gently to drive off all moisture. Melt five parts vaseline and five parts wax. Dissolve this in white gaso- line, (camp stove gasoline), and pour this liquid on 90 parts potassium chlor- ate, (the powdered crystals from above), in a plastic bowl. Knead this liquid into the potassium chlorate until intimately mixed. Allow all the gasoline to evaporate. Place this explosive in a cool dry place. Avoid friction, sulfur, sul- fides, and phophorous compounds. This explosive is best molded to the desired shape and density of 1.3 grams in a cube and dipped in wax till water proof. These block type charges guarantee the highest detonation velocity.

RDX
THE PRODUCTION OF RDX IS VERY DANGEROUS IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING. DO NOT ATTEMPT ANY OF THIS UNLESS YOU HAVE TAKEN SAFTEY PRECAUTIONS. Since the first part of WWII the armed forces of the United States has been searching for the perfect plastique explosives to be used in demolition work. This search lead to the development of the 'C' composition plastique explo- sives. Of this group C-4 being the lastest formulation that has been readily adopted by the armed forces. This formulation was preceded by C-3, C-2, and C. In this series of articles, I will cover all these explosives in their chrono- logical progression as they were developed and standardized by the armed for- ces. All these explosives are cyclonite (R.D.X.) base with various plastisi- zing agents used to achieve the desired product. This plastisizer, usually composes 7%-20% of the total weight of the plastique. Cyclotrimethylenetrinit- trime or cyclonite is manufactured in bulk by the nitration of hexamethylenetet- ramine, (methenamine, hexamine, etc., etc.) with strong red 100% nitric acid. The hardest part of this reaction is obtaining this red nitric acid. It will most likely have to be made. More on this later. Hexamine or methenamine can usually be bought in bulk quantities or hexamine fuel bars for camp stoves can be used but they end up being very expensive. To use the fuel bars the need to be powered before hand. The hexamine can also be made with common ammonia wa- ter (30%) and the commonly avaliable 36% formaldehyde solution. To make this componant place 185 grams of clear ammonia water in a shallow pyrex dish. To this add 500 ml. of the formaldehyde solution to the ammonia water. Allow this to evaporate and when the crystals are all that remains in the pan place the pan in the oven on the lowest heat that the oven has. This should be done only for a moment or so to drive off any remaining water. These crystals are scraped up and placed in a airtight jar to store them until they are used. To make the red nitric acid you will need to buy a retort with a ground glass stopper. In the retort place 32 grams sulfuric acid, (98%-100%), and to this add 68 grams of potassium nitrate or 58 grams of sodium nitrate. Gently heating this retort will generate a red gas called nitrogen trioxide. THIS GAS IS HIGHLY POISONOUS AND THIS STEP, AS WITH ALL OTHER STEPS, SHOULD BE DONE WITH GOOD VENTILATION. This nitric acid that is formed will collect in the neck of the retort and form droplets that will run down the inside of the neck of the retort and should be caught in a beaker cooled by being surrounded by ice wa- ter. This should be heated till no more collects in the neck of the retort and the nitric acid quits dripping out of the neck into the beaker. This acid should be stored until enough acid is generated to produce the required size batch which is determined by the person producing the explosive. Of course the batch can be larger or smaller but the same rations should be maintained. To make R.D.X. place 550 grams of the nitric acid produced by the above proced- ure in a 1000 ml. beaker in a salted bath. 50 grams of hexamine, (methenamine) is added in small portions making sure that the temperature of the acid DOES NOT GO ABOVE 30 DEGREES CELCIUS. This temperature can be monitored by placing a thermometer directly in the acid mixture. During this procedure a vigorous stirring should be maintained. If the temperature approches 30 degrees, IMMED- IATLY STOP THE ADDITION OF THE HEXAMINE until the temperature drops to an ac- ceptable level. After the addition is complete continue the stirring and allow the temperature to drop to 0 degrees celcius and allow it to stay there for 20 minutes coninuing the vigerous stirring. After the 20 minutes are up, pour this acid-hexamine mixture into 1000 ml. of finely crushed ice and water. Crystals should form and are filtered out of the liquid. The crystals that are filtered out are R.D.X. and will need to have all traces of the acid removed. To remove this trace of acid, first wash these crystals by putting them in ice water and shaking and refiltering. These crystals are then placed in a little boiling water and filtered. Place them in some warm water and check the acid- ity for the resultant suspension with litmus paper. You want it to read be- tween 6 and 7 on the Ph scale. If there is still acid in these crystals reboil them in fresh water until the acid is removed and the litmus paper shows them between 6 and 7, (the closer to 7 the better). To be safe these crystals should be stored water wet until ready for use. THESE CRYSTALS ARE A VERY HIGH EXPLOSIVE AND SHOULD BE TREATED WITH THE RESPECT THEY DESERVE! This explosive is much more powerful than T.N.T. To use, these will need to be dryed for some manufaturing processes in the next few articles. To dry these crystals, place them in a pan and spread them out and allow the water to evaporate off them until the are completely dry. This explosive will detonate in this dry form when pressed into a mold to a density of 1.55 grams cubed, at a velocity of 8550 M/second! COMPOSITION 'C' All of the type 'C' plastic explosives (that includes C-2, C-3, and C-4) are exceedingly powerful and should be used with utmost care. This explosive is just a copy of a British explosive that was adopted early in WWII. This explosive is the choice explosive of the type 'C' compounds because of its relative ease of maufacture and the easy aquisition of the plastizer compound. This explosive was available in standard demolition blocks. This explosive was standardized and adopted in the following composition:
R.D.X.......................... 88.3%
Heavy mineral oil.............. 11.1%
Lecithin....................... .6% (All percentages are by weight) In this composition, the lecithin acts to prevent the formation of large crystals of R.D.X. which would increase the sensitivity of the explosive. This explosive has a good deal of power and is relatively non-toxic, (except when ingested). It is also plastic from 0-40 degrees celcius. Above 40 degrees the explosive undergoes extrudation and becomes gummy although its explosive properties go relatively unimpaired. Below 0 degrees celcius it becomes brittle and its cap sensitivity is lessened considerably. Manufacturing this explosive can be done two ways. First being to dissolve the 11.7% plastisizing in unleaded gasoline and mixing with the R.D.X. and al- lowing the gasoline to evaporate until the mixture is free of all gasoline. The second method being the simple kneading of the plastisizing compound into the R.D.X. until a uniform mixture is obtained. This explosive should be stored in a cool-dry place. If properly made the plastique should be very stable in storage even if stored at elevated tempara- tures for long periods of time. It should be very cap sensitive. A booster will be a good choice, especial- ly if used below 0 degrees celcius. This detonates at a velocity of 7900 M/second.

COMPOSITION C-2 AND C-3
These are highly undesirable because of certain trait each has and they don't produce as much power as 'C' and 'C-4' compounds. It is not recommended you make these two types of plastique, this part was written for imformatative purposes only. Composition 'C-2' is harder to make than 'C-4' and is TOXIC TO HANDLE. It is also unstable in storage and is poor choice for home explosive manufacture. It also has a lower detonation velocity than either 'C-4' or 'C-3'. It is manufactured in a steam jacketed (heated) melting kettle using the same procedure used in incorperation of 'C-3'. Its composition is as follows: R.D.X................. 80% (Equal parts of them following:) Mononitrotolulene Dinitrotolulene T.N.T. guncotton Dimethylformide......... 20% (See Below for rest of recipe) 'C-3' was developed to eliminate the undesirable aspects of 'C-2'. It was standardized and adopted by the military as following composition: R.D.X................ 77% Mononitrotolulene.... 16% Dinitrotolulene...... 5% Tetryl............... 1% T.N.T. guncotton..... 1% 'C-3' is manufactured by mixing the plastisizing agent in a steam jacketed melting kettle equipped with a mechanical stirring attachment. The kettle is heated to 90-100 degrees celcius and the stirrer is activated. Water wet R.D.X. is added to the plastisizing agent and the stirring is continued until a uni- form mixture is obtained and all water has been driven off. Remove the heat source but continue to stir the mixture until it has cooled to room tempera- ture. This explosive is as sensitive to impact as is T.N.T. Storage at 65 de- grees celcius for four months at a relative humidity of 95% does not impair it's explosive properties. 'C-3' is 133% as good as an explosive as T.N.T. The major drawback of 'C-3' is its volatility which causes it to lose 1.2% of its weight although the explo- sives detonation properties are not affected. Water does not affect explosives preformance. Thus it is very good for un- derwater demolition uses and would be a good choice for such an application. When stored at 77 degrees celcius considerable extrudation takes place. It will become hard at -29 degrees celcius and is hard to detonate at this temp- erature. While this explosive is not unduely toxic, it should be handled with care as it contains aryl-nitro compounds which are absorbed through the skin. It will reliably take detonation from a #6 blasting cap but the use of a booster is always suggested. This explosive has a great blast effect and was avaliable in standard demolition blocks. Its detonation velocity is approxi- mately 7700 M/second. GELATIN DYNAMITE Below are five different ways to make a very common explosive.
Dynamite.
#1 nitro-------------------------12% guncotten---------------------.5% amonium nitrate---------------87.5%
#2 nitro-------------------------88% potassium nitrate--------------5% tetryl-------------------------7%
#3 nitro-------------------------24% guncotten----------------------1% amonium nitrate---------------75%
#4 nitro-------------------------75% guncotten----------------------5% potassium nitrate-------------15% wood meal----------------------5%
#5 nitro-------------------------80% ethalyne glycol dinitrate-----20%
After making this stuff, pack it in a cardboard tube and epoxy each end. But be careful for it might be a little unstable because of the nitroglycerine (ni- tro). Before it is totally dry stick a good fuse in one of the ends. Light, Throw, and run as if your life depended on it! Which in a way it does.

PEROXYACETONE
Peroxyacetone is extremely flammable and has been reported to be shock sensitive. --Materials-- 4ml Acetone 4ml 30% Hydrogen Peroxide 4 drops conc. hydrochloric acid 150mm test tube Add 4ml acetone and 4ml hydrogen peroxide to the test tube. Then add 4 drops concentrated hydrochloric acid. In 10-20 minutes a white solid should begin to appear. If no change is observed, warm the test tube in a water bath at 40 Celsius. Allow the reaction to continue for two hours. Swirl the slurry and filter it. Leave out on filter paper to dry for at least two hours. To ignite, light a candle tied to a meter stick and light it (while staying at least a meter away).

CELLULOSE NIRTATE (GUNCOTTON)
Commonly known as Smokeless powder, Nitrocellulose is exactly that it does not give off smoke when it burns. Materials- 70ml concentrated sulfuric acid 30ml concentrated nitric acid 5g absorbent cotton 250ml sodium bicarbonate 250ml beaker ice bath tongs paper towels Place 250ml beaker in the ice bath, add 70ml sulfuric acid, 30 ml nitric acid. Divide cotton into .7g pieces. With tongs, immerse each piece in the acid solution for 1 minute. Next, rinse each piece in 3 successive baths of 500ml water. Use fresh water for each piece. Then immerse in 250ml sodium bi- carbonate. If it bubbles, rinse in water once more until no bubbling occurs. Squeeze dry and spread on paper towels to dry overnight.

NITROGEN TRI-IODIDE
This is very shock sensitive when it comes to being agitated, moved, dropped, touched, breathed on....etc. For one thing I hope you don't do any of those. This has a high explosive value to it. It can move a lot of mass with just a little compound. I have heard so many different ways to make this, and this is the best one, I think. Take a medium glass and fill it up with ammonium hydroxide (household ammonia). Take some iodine crystals and pour about a fourth of the glass full. Wait about 30 minutes to an hour then pour off the liquid remaining. Now, what you have in the glass it called nitrogen tri-iodide, which is very sensitive to touch. But, it is perfectly save when it is wet. Thats why you do not let it dry until you want to use it. To detonate it just pour some of the wet stuff on an object and wait till something agitates it. Remember too much can harm a lot of things. It does pack a wallop!

NITROGLYCERIN
Nitroglycerin is a very high explosive. It is used all around the world to do many different types of jobs. To make nitro here is what you have to do: By weight, one part of glycerin is nitrated with 6 parts of mixed acid. The mixed acid is composed of 40% nitric and 60% sulfuric acid. The sulfuric acid is slowly added to the nitric acid with constant stirring. Never mix them the other way round for they will splatter. Each part of glycerin will yield 2.3 parts of nitroglycerin. The temperature when adding the glycerin to the acids should never go above 25 degrees centigrade. If it does or if red fumes appear, the whole mess should be dumped into cold waterfast. Do not take this as an encouragement to make nitroglycerin. It is a dangerous procedure to mix all these types of acids together and can easily be lost control of.

MAKING SULFURIC ACID
No, your not really MAKING sulfuric acid, you are just making it more con- centrated. All you need to do is to take a old car battery and dump all of the acid into a GLASS bowl that can be set on a stove. Do not use metal for unwant- ed occurances could come about. Just take the old acid and boil it until you see white fumes come out. When you do immediately turn off the heat and let it cool. One thing, DO NOT use a gas stove. Use an electric hot plate and make it outside because the fumes are very poisonous. T.N.T (Trinitrotoulene) Mix 170 parts toulene with 100 parts acid. The acid being composed of: 2 parts 70% nitric acid and 3 parts 100% sulfuric acid. Mix below 30 degrees. Set this for 30 minutes and let seperate. Take the mononitrotoluene and mix with 100 parts of it with 215 parts of acid. This acid being composed of: 1 part pure nitric acid and 2 parts pure sulfuric acid. Keep the temperature at 60 - 70 degrees while they are slowly mixed.. Raise temperature to 90 - 100 degrees and stir for 30 minutes. The dinitrotoulene is seperated and mixed with 100 parts of this with 225 parts of 20% oleum, which is 100% sulfuric acid with 20% extra dissolved sulfur trioxide, and 64 parts nitric acid. Heat at 95 degrees for 60 minutes and then at 120 degrees for 90 minutes. Seperate the trinitrotoluene and slosh it around in hotwater. Purify the powder by soaking it in benzene. MERCURY FUMLINATE Mix 2 parts of Nitric Acid with 2 part alcohol (any kind) and 1 part mer- cury. This is very shock sensitive explosive. Be careful, Nitric Acid is an unstable acid. It will react to agitation.

CHAPTER THREE [INCENDARIES]
What is an incendairy? Those are compounds that do not go "boom", but can burn fast and generate a lot of heat. For example, thermite, its an incendairy, because it can produce temperatures will up in the hundreds and can even melt metal.

NAPALM
This is just gasoline in a thickend form. What it does is burn for long periods of time. If it is made right I hear that water can't even put it out. What you do is take some polystyrine (styrofoam) and place it in some unleaded gasoline (unleaded works better). Keep feeding styrofoam to the gas until you can not feed any more at all. At points it will look like thats all it can take, just wait for a minute and let the other gas rise to the top. It will take a lot of stryrofoam until you get what you want. When it is done, it will burn for a long time. I would suggest that you do not place any on you because once it is lit it will travel quite quickly since it melts the thickend gaso- line and it rolls down. This is also fun to play with. The only problem with it, is it gives off too much smoke.

THERMITE
This is the arsonists dream! Thermite is a very hot mixture. Although it is slightly hard to get ignited, so it is safe to transport it. Here is what you do: Thermite is made from powdered aluminum and iron oxide (rust). Mix two parts by volume powdered alumnium with three parts iron oxide. This stuff is hard to light, but once you get it going don't plan on putting it out, be- cause it can produce enough heat to melt through a steel plate. The finer the ingredients are the easier it will be to ignite.

CHEMICALLY IGNITED EXPLOSIVES
A mixture of 1 part potassium chlorate to 3 parts table sugar (sucrose) burns fiercely and brightly (similar to the burning of magnesium) when 1 drop of concentrated sulfuric acid is placed on it. What occurs is this: when the acid is added it reacts with the potassium chlorate to form chlorine dioxide, which explodes on formation, burning the sugar as well.
 

CHAPTER FOUR [SMOKE BOMBS]
So, you want a smoke screen? Well this chapter will explain how many dif- ferent types of smoke can be made. Even colored smoke.

SMOKE PRODUCER
The following reaction should produce a fair amount of smoke. Since this reaction is not all that dangerous you can use larger amounts if necessary for larger amounts of smoke. 6g zinc powder 1g sulfur powder Insert a red hot wire into the pile, step back. A lot of smoke should be created.

SMOKE BOMB
This is the father of all smoke bombs. Mix: 2 part Potassium Nitrate 1 Part Granulated sugar. Put this under a very low heat source and melt the sugar and potassium nitrate. After it is melted let it set and get hard. When it gets hard, just take outside and hold a lit match on an area of the smoke bomb and wait till it lights. You will know when it is about to ignite because the stuff turns black and will then spit and sputter and smoke will pour out of the compound. You also can light it without melting it but it burns too fast and will make a hudge flame while the other one does not.

HTH CHLORINE SMOKE BOMB
Take HTH pool chlorine and some non-silicon brake fluid and mix the two to- gether in a ratio of 4 parts chlorine to 1 part brake fluid. When you mix the two together they will begin to sizzle and then it will begin to smoke. It will take about 30 seconds to start smoking fully. When it does begin to smoke it will produce a stinking cloud of thick white smoke. If you do not be care- ful it could burst into flames and burn what it is in. I suggest to place the mixture in a glass container for it gets real hot. And anybody in their right mind will not go pick it up and try to throw it when it has done smoking. The smoke is known to last for over 2 minutes and is also toxic because it produces chlorine gas, which is deadly!

SMOKE MIXTURES
All mixture parts are in percentages
[Black] Hexachloroethane...60 Anthracene.........20 Magnesium (powder).20
[Brown] Pitch..............29.2 Potasium Nitrate...47.4 Borax..............10.6 Calcium Carbonate...4.9 Sand................4.0 Sulfur..............3.9
[Grey] Hexachloroethane....50 Zinc Powder.........25 Zinc Oxide..........10 Potassium Nitrate...10 Colophony Resin.....5 Hexachloroethane....45.5 Zinc Oxide..........45.5 Calcium Silicide.....9.0
[White] Potassium Chlorate..20 Ammonium Chloride...50 Naphthalene.........20 Charcoal............10 Potassium nitrate....48.5 Sulfur...............48.5 Realgar...............3.0 Potassium Nitrate..50 Sugar..............50 [Yellow] Potassium Nitrate..25 Sulfur.............16 Realgar............59
[White] Potassium nitrate.......6 Antimony sulfide........1 Powdered sulfur.........1
[Yellow] Potassium nitrate.......4 Powdered sulfur.........1 Charcoal................2 Sodium chloride.........3 [Yellow] Powdered sulfur.........4 Charcoal................1 Potassium nitrate......24 Sodium carbonate........6 [Red] Strontium nitrate.......4 Powdered orange shellac.1
[Red] Strontium nitrate......11 Powdered sulfur.........4 Charcoal................1 Calcium carbonate......11 Potassium nitrate.......1
[Purple] Copper sulfate..........1 Strontium nitrate.......1 Powdered sulfur.........1 Charcoal................1 Potassium nitrate.......3
[Green] Barium nitrate..........7 Powdered sulfur.........4 Charcoal................1 Potassium nitrate.......1 [Green] Barium chlorate.........9 Powdered orange shellac.1
[Blue] Anitmony sulfide........2 Powdered sulfur.........4 Potassium nitrate......12
[Blue] Potassium nitrate......12 Powdered sulfur.........3 charcoal................1 Copper sulfate..........2 Powdered rosin..........1

CHLORINE + TURPENTINE
Take a small cloth or rag and soak it in turpentine. Quickly drop it into the bottle of chlorine. It should give off a lot of black smoke and probably start burning...

CHAPTER FIVE [BOMBS]
This is the point I really stress the word saftey! At this point it should be well excercised and you had better know what you are doing before you even at- tempt to construct some of these devices. Remember that the law prohibits the manufacture and use of such devices, and you could be breaking the law in some places. If you do make on of the devices that is listed in here then I would suggest you make a prototype and set that one off in the country and if it work- ed correctly then make your final one and use it the way you had in mind.

GENERIC BOMB
Acquire a glass container. Put in a few drops of gasoline. Cap the top and turn the container around to coat the inner surface. Add a few drops of potassium permanganate (found in a snake-bite kit) . To detonate just throw against a hard object. I hear this is the same as a half stick of dynamite!

FIREBOMBS
Most firebombs are simply gasoline filled bottles with a oil soaked rag in the mouth. The original firebomb was one part gasoline and one part motor oil. The oil makes it splatter and stick on what your trying to burn. Some use one part roofing tar or one part melting wax to 2 parts gasoline.

PIPEBOMB
A pipe bomb is very easy to make. But is also very dangerous! To construct a pipe bomb you will need a piece of pipe about one foot long. Some fine gun powder, a solar ignitor, and a battery. Cap one end of the pipe very good with a cap. Pour some gun powder in the other end about little over the middle. Cap the pipe on the other end and make a small hole in the middle of the pipe. Now wrap the whole pipe in electric tape and make the hole again. Place in the head of the solar ignitor in the hole. Tape the ignitor down so it will not fall out. To ignite the bomb I suggest you take a VERY long wire and connect it to the electrodes of the solar ignitor and run it very far away. Then connect the battery at the other end of the wire. DO NOT touch the battery to the electrodes of the bomb for even a second, because it WILL explode!!! Remember take a long two conductor wire and connect it to the electrodes and run it far away and then connect the battery to it. If you made it correctly it will explode upon contact with the battery! Remember, this can kill you. This also can do a lot of property damage.

CONTACT GERNADE
Materials: 2-3 in. section of pipe PVC (for test and fun) Steel (for shrapnel) 12 guage shotgun shell (fitted to pipe) marble ping pong ball cap for pipe 2-3 ft. ribbon (flights) explosive charge (of personal preferance) a 1/2 or 1/4 cup petrol makes an excellent charge when vaporized filling the pipe with gunpowder is simplest or any STABLE flammable explosive one may have. This design is a modified pipebomb which will be set off upon hard contact. This makes things much easier than tossing molotove cocktails or lighting fuses as all you do is throw it and it should detonate on contact. 1. cut the plastic of the shotgun shell off of the primer and set aside. 2. carefully fit the primer into one end of the pipe and epoxy securely. 3. glue the marble to the 'dimple' of the primer. 4. cut the ping pong ball in half and then glue half onto the marble to make a simple form of casing. 5. put explosive charge into the hollow pipe (if useing gasoline use only 1/4 of the volume of pipe. reason: 1gal. of gas vapor = 16 sticks dynamite!!!) 6. cap the pipe and epoxy into place. 7. tie ribbon around tail section of pipe. Relax. Now that its finished heres how it works. When thrown the grenade will come down upon the point because of the tail flights. When it hits, the primer will be crushed by the marble, setting it off. The primer then ignites the explosive charge. I heartily recommend that PVC be used for testing as the steel pipe is rather dangerous. This design is not a toy and should not be built to be played with. If you want a toy just empty a shotgun shell and tape a marble to the primer and throw. It ma kes a quasi-safe firework.

CARBIDE BOMB
Obtain some calcium carbide. This is the stuff that is used in carbide lamps and can be found at nearly any hardware store. Take a few pieces and put it in a glass jar with some water. Put a lid on tightly. The carbide will react with the water to produce acetylene carbonate which is similar to the gas used in curring torches. Eventually the glass will explode from internal pressure. If you leave a burning rag nearby, you will get a nice fireball.

HINDENBERG BOMB
Get, a balloon, bottle, liquid plumr, foil, and a length of fuse. Fill the bottle 3/4 full with the liquid plumr and add a little piece of alumninum foil. Put the balloon over the next of the bottle until the balloon is full of the resulting gas. This is highly flammable hydrogen. Now tie the balloon. Tape the fuse to the outside of the inflated balloon and light. Let the balloon rise into the air. When the fuse gets to the balloon and bursts it, the hydrogen will cause a fireball. The Chemist's Corner Article #1: Explosives By Zaphod Beeblebrox/MPG This article deals with the instructions for creating some dangerous explosives. If you intend to make any of these explosives, do so in SMALL AMOUNTS ONLY, as they are all dangerous and could seriously injure or kill you if done in larger amounts. If you don't know anything about chemistry, DON'T DO THESE EXPERIMENTS! I am not joking in giving this warning. Unless you have a death wish, you shouldn't try any of the following unless you have had prior experience with chemicals. I am not responsible for any injury or damage caused by people using this information. It is provided for use by people knowledgable in chemistry who are interested in such experiments and can safely handle such experiments. ============================================================
I. Common "weak" explosives.
A. Gunpowder: 75% Potassium Nitrate 15% Charcoal 10% Sulfur The chemicals should be ground into a fine powder (seperately!) with a morter & pestle. If gunpowder is ignited in the open, it burns fiercely, but if in a closed space it builds up pressure from the released gases and can explode the container. Gunpowder works like this: the potassium nitrate oxidizes the charcoal and sulfur, which then burn fiercely. Carbon dioxide and sulfur dioxide are the gases released.
B. Ammonal: Ammonal is a mixture of ammonium nitrate (a strong oxidizer) with aluminum powder (the 'fuel' in this case). I am not sure of the % composition for Ammonal, so you may want to experiment a little using small amounts.
C. Chemically ignited explosives:
1. A mixture of 1 part potassium chlorate to 3 parts table sugar (sucrose) burns fiercely and brightly (similar to the burning of magnesium) when 1 drop of concentrated sulfuric acid is placed on it. What occurs is this: when the acid is added it reacts with the potassium chlorate to form chlorine dioxide, which explodes on formation, burning the sugar as well.
2. Using various chemicals, I have developed a mixture that works very well for imitating volcanic eruptions. I have given it the name 'MPG Volcanite' (tm). Here it is: potassium chlorate + potassium perchlorate + ammonium nitrate + ammonium dichromate + potassium nitrate + sugar + sulfur + iron filings + charcoal + zinc dust + some coloring agent. (scarlet= strontium nitrate, purple= iodine crystals, yellow= sodium chloride, crimson= calcium chloride, etc...).
3. So, do you think water puts out fires? In this one, it starts it. Mixture: ammonium nitrate + ammonium chloride + iodine + zinc dust. When a drop or two of water is added, the ammonium nitrate forms nitric acid which reacts with the zinc to produce hydrogen and heat. The heat vaporizes the iodine (giving off purple smoke) and the ammonium chloride (becomes purple when mixed with iodine vapor). It also may ignite the hydrogen and begin burning. Ammonium nitrate: 8 grams Ammonium choride: 1 gram Zinc dust: 8 grams Iodine crystals: 1 gram
4. Potassium permanganate + glycerine when mixed produces a purple-colored flame in 30 secs-1 min. Works best if the potassium permanganate is finely ground.
5. Calcium carbide + water releases acetylene gas (highly flammable gas used in blow torches...)

II. Thermite reaction.
The Thermite reaction is used in welding, because it generates molten iron and temperatures of 3500 C (6000F+). It uses one of the previous reactions that I talked about to START it! Starter=potassium chlorate + sugar Main pt.= iron (III) oxide + aluminum powder (325 mesh or finer) Put the potassium chlorare + sugar around and on top of the main pt. To start the reaction, place one drop of concentrated sulfuric acid on top of the starter mixture. STEP BACK! The ratios are: 3 parts iron(III) oxide to 1 part aluminum powder to 1 part potassium chlorate to 1 part sugar. When you first do it, try 3g:1g:1g:1g! Also, there is an alternative starter for the Thermite reaction. The alter-native is potassium permanganate + glycerine. Amounts: 55g iron(III) oxide, 15g aluminum powder, 25g potassium per-manganate, 6ml glycerine.

III. Nitrogen-containing high explosives.
A. Mercury(II) Fulminate To produce Mercury(II) Fulminate, a very sensitive shock explosive, one might assume that it could be formed by adding Fulminic acid to mercury. This is somewhat difficult since Fulminic acid is very unstable and cannot be pur-chased. I did some research and figured out a way to make it without fulminic acid. You add 2 parts nitric acid to 2 parts alcohol to 1 part mercury. This is theoretical (I have not yet tried it) so please, if you try this, do it in very* small amounts and tell me the results.
B. Nitrogen Triiodide Nitrogen Triiodide is a very powerful and very shock sensitive explosive. Never store it and be carful when you're around it- sound, air movements, and other tiny things could set it off. Materials- 2-3g Iodine 15ml conc. ammonia 8 sheets filter paper 50ml beaker feather mounted on a two meter pole ear plugs tape spatula stirring rod Add 2-3g Iodine to 15ml ammonia in the 50ml beaker. Stir, let stand for 5 minutes. DO THE FOLLOWING WITHIN 5 MINUTES! Retain the solid, decant the liquid (pour off the liquid but keep the brown solid...). Scape the brown residue of Nitrogen Triiodide onto a stack of four sheets of filter paper. Divide solid into four parts, putting each on a seperate sheet of dry filter paper. Tape in position, leave to dry undisturbed for AT LEAST 30 minutes (preferrably longer). To detonate, touch with feather. (WEAR EAR PLUGS WHEN DETONATING OR COVER EARS- IT IS VERY LOUD!)
C. Cellulose Nitrate (Guncotton) Commonly known as Smokeless powder, Nitrocellulose is exactly that- it does not give off smoke when it burns. Materials- 70ml concentrated sulfuric acid 30ml concentrated nitric acid 5g absorbent cotton 250ml 1M sodium bicarbonate 250ml beaker ice bath tongs paper towels Place 250ml beaker in the ice bath, add 70ml sulfuric acid, 30 ml nitric acid. Divide cotton into .7g pieces. With tongs, immerse each piece in the acid solution for 1 minute. Next, rinse each piece in 3 successive baths of 500ml water. Use fresh water for each piece. Then immerse in 250ml 1M sodium bicarbonate. If it bubbles, rinse in water once more until no bubbling occurs. Squeeze dry and spread on paper towels to dry overnight.
D. Nitroglycerine Nitroglycerine is a *VERY* dangerous shock sensitive explosive. It is used in making dynamite, among other things. I am not sure as to the proportions and amounts of chemicals to be used, so I shall use estimates. Materials- 70ml conc. sulfuric acid 30ml conc. nitric acid 10 ml glycerine ice bath 150ml beaker Put the 150ml beaker in the ice bath and make sure that it is very cold. Slowly add the 70ml sulfuric and 30ml nitric acids to the beaker, trying to maintain a low temperature. When the temperature starts to level off, add about 10ml glycerine. If it turns brown or looks funny, **RUN LIKE HELL**. When Nitroglycerine turns brown, that means it's ready to explode... If it stays clear and all works well, keep the temperature as low as you can and let it sit for a few hours. You then should have some Nitrogl ycerine, probably mixed with nitric and sulfuric acids. When you set it off, you must not be nearby. Nitroglycerine can fill 10,000 times its original area with expanding gases. This means that if you have 10ml's of Nitroglycerine in there, it will produce some 100,000ml's of gases. To make it into dynamite, the Nitroglycerine must be absorbed into something like wood pulp or diamaeceous earth (spelled something like that).

IV. Other stuff
A. Peroxyacetone
Peroxyacetone is extremely flammable and has been reported to be shock sensitive. Materials- 4ml Acetone 4ml 30% Hydrogen Peroxide 4 drops conc. hydrochloric acid 150mm test tube Add 4ml acetone and 4ml hydrogen peroxide to the test tube. Then add 4 drops concentrated hydrochloric acid. In 10-20 minutes a white solid should begin to appear. If no change is observed, warm the test tube in a water bath at 40 celsius. Allow the reaction to continue for two hours. Swirl the slurry and filter it. Leave out on filter paper to dry for at least two hours. To ignite, light a candle tied to a meter stick and light it (while staying at least a meter away).
B. Smoke smoke smoke...
The following reaction should produce a fair amount of smoke. Since this reaction is not all that dangerous you can use larger amounts if necessary for larger amounts of smoke. 6g zinc powder 1g sulfur powder Insert a red hot wire into the pile, step back. A lot of smoke should be created.

There are many other experiments I could have included, but I will save them for the next Chemibt's Corner article. Upcoming articles will include Glow-in-the-dark reactions, 'party' reactions, things you can do with household chemicals, and more... I would like to give credit to a book by Shakashari entitled "Chemical Demonstrations" for a few of the precise amounts of chemicals in some experiments. This is it for Chemist's Corner #1... look for Chemist's Corner #2: What to do with household chemicals... ...Zaphod Beeblebrox/MPG! Wasteland Underground The Chemist's Corner Article #2: Household chemicals By Zaphod Beeblebrox/MPG This article deals with instructions on how to do some interesting experiments with common household chemicals. Some may or may not work depending on the concentration of certain chemicals in different areas and brands. I would suggest that the person doing these experiments have some knowledge of chemistry, especially for the more dangerous experiments. I am not responsible for any injury or damage caused by people using this information. It is provided for use by people knowledgable in nchemistry who are interested in such experiments and can safely handle such experiments. ============================================================

I. A list of household chemicals and their composition

Vinegar: 3-5% acetic acid
Baking soda: sodium bicarbonate
Drain cleaners: sodium hydroxide
Sani-flush: 75% sodium bisulfate
Ammonia water: ammonium hydroxide
Citrus fruit: citric acid
Table salt: sodium chloride
Sugar: sucrose
Milk of Magnesia- magnesium hydroxide
Tincture of iodine- 47% alcohol, 4% iodine
Rubbing alcohol- 70 or 99% (depends on brand) isopropyl alcohol (DO NOT DRINK!) etc...

EXP #1: Ye old fizz experiment
Mix vinegar with baking soda. It produces sodium acetate and carbonicacid. Carbonic acid quickly decomposes into carbon dioxide and water, resulting in the "fizz". This simple reaction can be contained in a small bottle or something, and when enough pressure builds up it will break open. I sincerely doubt that it will blow "all four walls off the house" as some loser wrote in his Safehouse article. The same basic thing can be done with dry ice & water, baking powder & water, citric acid & baking soda, and many other combinations.

EXP #2: A fruity battery
If you're ever in need of a little power, get your hands on these: a citrus fruit (lemon, orange, etc) a small zinc strip a small copper strip Just stick the zinc strip in one end of a lemon and a copper strip in the other. You now have a 1.5 volt battery! Just attach the wires to the copper & zinc strips...

EXP #3: Generating chlorine gas
This is slightly more dangerous than the other two experiments, so you should know what you're doing befove you try this... Ever wonder why ammonia bottles always say 'DO NOT mix with chlorine bleach', and visa-versa? That's because if you mix ammonia water with Ajax or something like it, it will give off chlorine gas. To capture it, get a large bottle and put Ajax in the bottom. Then pour some ammonia down into the bottle. Since the chlorine is heavier than air, it will stay down in there unless you use large amounts of either Ajax or ammonia (DON'T!). For something fun to do with chlorine stay tuned....

EXP #4: Chlorine + turpentine
Take a small cloth or rag and soak it in turpentine. Quickly drop it into the bottle of chlorine. It should give off a lot of black smoke and probably start burning...

EXP #5: Generating hydrogen gas
To generate hydrogen, all you need is an acid and a metal that will react with that acid. Try vinegar (acetic acid) with zinc, aluminum, magnesium, etc. You can collect hydrogen in something if you note that it is lighter than air.... Light a small amount and it burns with a small *pop*. Another way of creating hydrogen is by the electrolysis of water. This involves seperating water (H2O) into hydrogen and oxygen by an electric current. To do this, you need a 6-12 volt battery, two test tubes, a large bowl, two carbon electrodes (take them out of an unworking 6-12 volt battery), and table salt. Dissolve the salt in a large bowl full of water. Submerge the two test tubes in the water and put the electrodes inside them, with the mouth of the tube aiming down. Connect the battery to some wire going down to the electrodes. This will work for a while, but chlorine will be generated along with the oxygen which will undoubtedly corrode your copper wires leadino to the carbon electrodes... (the table salt is broken up into chlorine and sodium ions, the chlorine comes off as a gas with oxygen while sodium reacts with the water to form sodium hydroxide....). Therefore, if you can get your hands on s ome sulfuric acid, use it instead. It will not affect the reaction other than making the water conduct electricity.

EXP #6: Hyrdogen + chlorine
Take the test tube of hydrogen and cover the mouth with your thumb. Keep it inverted, and bring it near the bottle of chlorine (not one that has reacted with turpentine). Say "goodbye test tube", and drop it into the bottle. The hydrogen and chlorine should react and possibly explode (depending on purity and amount of each gas). An interesting thing about this is they will not react if it is dark and no heat or other energy is around. When a light is turned on, enough energy is present to cause them to react...

EXP #7: Preparation of oxygen
Get some hydrogen peroxide (from a drug store) and manganese dioxide (from a battery- it's a black powder). Mix the two in a bottle, and they give off oxygen. If the bottle is stoppered, pressure will build up and shoot it off. Try lighting a wood splint and sticking it (when only glowing) into the bottle. The oxygen will make it burst into flame. Experiment with it. The oxygen will allow things to burn better...

EXP #8: Alcohol
Buy some rubbing alcohol in a drug store. Usually this is either 70% or 99% alcohol and burns just great. You can soak a towel in water and then in acohol, light the towel, and when it finishes burning the alcohol, the flame should go out and leave the towel unharmed. Nice for "party tricks", etc.

EXP #9: Iodine?
Tincture of iodine contains mainly alcohol and a little iodine. To seperate them, put the tincture of iodine in a metal lid to a bottle and heat it over a candle. Have a stand holding another metal lid directly over the tincture (about 4-6 inches above it) with ice on top of it. The alcohol should evaporate, and the iodine should sublime, but should reform iodine crystals on the cold metal lid directly above. If this works (I haven't tried), you can use the iodine along with household ammonia to form Nitrogen Triiodide (discussed in article #1).

EXP #10: Grain-elevator explosion!
Want to try your own 'grain-elevator explosion'? Get a candle and some flour... Light the candle and put some flour in your hand. Try various ways of getting the flour to leave your hand and become dust right over the candle flame. The enormous surface area allows all the tiny dust particles to burn, which they do at about the same time, combining to form a fireball effect. In grain elevators, much the same thing happens. If you can get your hands on some lycopodium powder, do. This will work much better, creating huge fireballs that are unexpected. That's enough for now... more to come in later Chemist's Corner articles... ...Zaphod Beeblebrox/MPG! Wasteland Underground <->-<->-<->-<->-<->-<->-<->-<->-<->-<->-<->-<->-<->-<->

Fun Ways to Kill a Fellow Human Transcribed by: Intrepid <->-<->-<->-<->-<->-<->-<->-<->-<->-<->-<->-<->-<->-<-> Well, this is an old text file I had from my early Apple days, and thought I'd bring it to IBM.. I dunno if its already out there, but I havent seen it.. Disclaimer > None of these methods have been tested by me, or anyone I know, but if you really hate someone, you can just go through all of em till hes dead.. <-> Beginning of Actual textfile <-> ..If he/she races BMX, string a 60 pound test line across a jump or in the middle of the track... ..Staple his mouth to the tail-pipe of your BMW, and put a piece of tape across his nose, then drive about 20 miles at top-speed, by this time, his mouth should be enmeshed with the tail-pipe, his knuckles, knees and feet will be practically non-existent from dragging on the ground, AND he'll be quite dead from inhaling all the carbon monoxide.. (Int - wouldn't a mac truck be funner??) ..Make concrete blocks out of his hands, then hang him from a bridge across a not too well travelled road, by his feet. Set him swinging and wait for the next truck or van.. (Int - bunji cords sound fun) ..Hang him spread eagle off a diving board, with a weight tied around his stomach. If the board is low enough, you should be able to bounce up and down on the board, and watch him drown slowly.. ..Tie a rope around his neck straight up to the top of the sailboat, and strap his feet to the floor, straight in the middle of the boat. Every time the sail comes around, it should hit him quite hard in the head. I recommend this only for very windy days.. ..Use him as a marker in a giant slalom ski race.. ..Slide razor blades across his back for about 20 minutes, then give him the choice of shooting himself in the head, or being thrown into a bath-tub full of gin.. ..Tie him up spread eagle in front of a pitching machine, in such a way that the tip of his nose is about 2 inches away from the barrel.. ..Tie him up, and handcuff him. Then put his fingers between the type-head of an old-fashioned, and the paper. You might like typing out your opinions of him, while he suffers.. ..Take a pair of handcuffs and put them on his feet. Then strap a rope between them, so you hold on to the rope. Go on Space Mountain in Disney Land, and drag him off the back. If you get tired or scared, just let go, its only a 80 or 90 foot drop to the concrete.. ..Steal all the jacls at the Indy 500 and use him as a replacement.. ..If he happens to be a sadist, pluck off his arms and legs, just as he probably did to flies.. ..String up his locker, so that when HE opens it up, a mouse trap snaps out and grabs him by the you know what.. ..Bury him standing up 8 feet deep in sand, then make a wider area around his head about 2 feet deep. Pry his eyes open with something (preferably infectious) and pour in salt. THEN let in 6 rats, and watch them gouge his eyes for food.. ..Tie rubber-bands around his ankles (really strong and long ones, MUST be used for this, about 10 feet long ) and go up on top of a high dive, that is shorter than the somewhat extended length of the rubber band. Use him as a yo-yo.. (Int - one of my favs) ..String him out across the track at the next Summer Olympics right before the mens 100 meter dash, in place of the ribbon.. ..Get all dressed up in a radiation suit, and drive out to 3 mile island or some other nuclear test that failed its safety test. Find a huge vat of anything that looks dangerous, is boiling, or is made of a color nature never knew existed. The grab hm by the ankles (you know, like Achille's mother did!) and dunk him in it or about 10 minutes.. I just ran out of ideas. If you were offended by this, TOUGH SHIT. It's a joke and if you dont think its funny then SCREW YOU. <-> End of actual text file <-> Well, I hope you found this as interesting and educational as I did.. Later days, better lays.. Call The Wizards Realm 214-279-2263 80 Megs ------------ Anarchy inc. ...proudly presents... ------------ How To Have Fun In K-Mart!! A combination of volumes 1 & 2 Written By: The Daredevil, of Anarchy inc. Well, first off, one must realize the importance of K-Marts in society today. First off, K-Marts provide things cheaper to those who can't afford to shop at higher quality stores. Although, all I ever see in there is minorities and Senior Citizens, and the poor people in our city.Personally, I wouldn't be caught dead in there. But, once, I did. You see, once, after The Moon Roach and Havoc Chaos (Dear friends of mine) and I were exploring such fun things as rooftops, we came along a K-Mart. Amused, and cold for that matter, we wandered in. The Tension mounts. As we walked up to the entrance, we were nearly attacked by Youth Groups selling cheap cookies, and wheelchair stricken people selling American Flags. After laughing at these people, we entered. This is where the real fun begins... First off, we wandered around the store, and turned on all the blue lights we could find. That really distracts and confuses the attendents... Fun to do... The first neat thing, is to go to the section of the store where they sell computers. Darkness engulf the earth the day they find Apple computers being sold there. Instead, lesser computers like the laughable Vic-20 can be found there...Turn it on, and make sure nobody's looking...Then, once in basic, type... 10 PRINT "Fuck the world! Anarchy Rules!" (or something to that effect.) 20 GOTO 10 and walk away. Also, set the sample radios in the store to a satanic rock tation, and turn the radio off. Then, set the alarm for two minutes ahead of the time displayed there. Turn the volume up all the way, and walk away. after about two minutes, you will see the clerk feebly attempt to turn the radio down or off. It's really neat to set ten or more radios to different stations, and walk away. One of my favorite things to do, is to get onto the intercom system of the store. Easier typed then done. First, check out the garden department. You say there's no attendant there? Good. Sneak carefully over to the phone behind the cheap counter there, and pick it up. Dial the number corresponding to the item that says 'PAGE'... And talk. You will note that your voice will echo all over the bowels of K-Mart. I would suggest announcing something on the lines of: "Captain Stubeing to the Bridge, Captain Stubeing." or "Attention K-Mart Shoppers: Eat shit and Die" or any other cute phrase that your taxed mind can come up with. Ah, but what if there is an attendant in the garden ection...Probally an illegal alien. Try sneaking into the back room. There's bound to be a phone back there somewhere. The thing is, try not to get kicked out of K-Mart, as the Moon coach has had happen to him before. I won't EVEN mention which famous BBS Personality was nailed for shop- lifting from K-Mart. He/She'll kill me. One other fun thing to do in K-Mart is to find the dressingroom, small and insufficient for normal means (about one cubic foot wide...), and enter with as many people as you can find. Begin making several obscene noises and grunts at quite a loud level. This should attract the attention of several employees, and after a short period of time, will usually send an unwitting attendant to see what the source of the problem is. These attendants were not hired for their intellectual capacity, and at least in my experience, they have this habit of opening the wrong door. This usually shocks the customers and embarrasses the employees. After this exciting little jaunt, try rearranging the coats and the hats on the racks. See how long it takes for the low-bred customers to notice the change. The average time is usually four to six weeks. Another exciting activity is to find the back room and remove all the tags and the receipts from the boxes therein. The seedy and yet obscene messages are optional. This not only confuses the managers, but will usually leave the people in charge in the store wondering if certain items such as a chair, are not actually 'Mr. T Watersprinklers' as the label on the box implies. Now, I would like to thank Teeny Bopper and Havoc The Chaos for bringing to me a genuine "K-Mart Luncheon Menu"! Oh yea. My god, even their paper cups have 'K-MART' on them. I'm surprised they don't say 'McDonalds' or something. I've never seen recycled food before. Well, I'm going to get back to the garden center and type about it for a minute. The garden center can be great fun (see K-Mart:Part I in last month's column) whether you're slashing the bags of fertilizer, graffiti on the potted plants, or stealing those plastic flamingos by handing them out to friends through the gates, it's all the same now. Fun! Getting on the roof of K-Mart is quite a hard task. I've yet to try it myself though. I'd like E-Mail from the first 100 people who unsucessfully get on the roof of K-Mart, please? Ah well, The Moon Roach & I are without ideas, so, without further adieu, we will end this highly entertaining text-file... Call The Works BBS - 1600+ Textfiles! - [914]/238-8195 - 300/1200 Always Open ----------------------------- :+=+---------------------+=+: :+=+-K-MART III-FOR THE: +=+: :+=+-----UNCRUPULOUS-----+=+: :+=BY TORQA DUN/DATA GEN.+=+: :+=+---------------------+=+: He stands atop a lonely hillside, the cold biting at his skin as the chill wind whips through his hair, setting it off in a menagerie of disarray. He surveys the scene.. the ominous structure ahead of him, forbidding and clammy steel. With the battle cry of "Remember Split Infinity!" he bounds down the hill, over dusk and rock until he stands before the object of his nightmares, K-Mart. Not wasting any time, he strides to the doors and flings them open with an air of aristocracy. He is met by a cold blast of stale air as he gapes in awe at the vast array of "kwalitee" merchandise for the throngs of people to buy. He laughs inwardly and ignores the youth group leader begging for contributions at the door. Knowing exactly what he is doing, he heads to the back of the store. He has used the coveted techniques before but now he is ready to go beyond. He is ready to cause utter havoc. finding no one manning the defunct "Pet section" our hero accesses the "page" one option and says "ATTENTION K-MART SHOPPERS..FOR THE NEXT TWO MINUTES, ALL THE MERCHANDISE YOU CAN CARRY, HAUL, DRAG, OR LIFT TO CHECKOUT IS 80% OFF!" Then vacates the area and watches the commotion as the throngs of greasers lug refrigerators, tv's, appliances and even whole kitchen ensembles to checkout in a mad rush to buy as the K-Mart people run here and there trying to no avail to restore order. With the general populous caught up in that com-motion, he goes to the "toiletries" department and takes a bottle of "PRELL" from the shelf. He feels a moment of guilt flash throug him but that is swept aside by the years of training he has had. Opening the bottle he writes "MATT ACKERET DOES IT WITH FIRE HYDRANTS" or s omething of the sort. "Oh my!" he thinks, my bottle is 1/2 empty! well, fixing that, he opens it and proceeds to piss in it and shakes it up, replaces it on the counter, and does this to 5 more. "That was lucky" he thinks as he heads to the kwalitee K-Mart TV department. When this place is devoid of life, he turns the tv's all off and all to different stations, with volume jacked up to 10 and retreats. The kwalitee K-Mart compyooter dept. has more fun for our hero.. the demo's can be easily rigged to give quite a shock, our valiant vigilante thinks as he unplugs the VIC-20 sitting there and wets down the plug. He heads off to the Sporting Goods department to find even more laughs awaiting him to the dismay of K-Mart employees. Wow! a K-Mart test finger bowlingball! golly! He then proceeds to bowl over that little old lady down the aisle (very sneakily, of course) and/or her basket of kwalitee merchandise. Fishing rods you say?? He strides to the waiting poles and easily attaches the fly at the end to that EVERLAST punching bag over in the corner. Replacing it in the rack and doing this to twelve others, our hero has now rigged up the ultimate net-trap for the unsuspecting greaser. Shuffling off to the foodstuff department our protagonist opens the bags of waiting goodies and munches down, replacing the half-eaten bag with greatest caution. Soon the entire shelf is a litter of Dorit-os, Frit-os, Tostit-os, mini burrit-os and all the other "o's" you might want.. Lingerie ti me.. thinks our anarchistic friend. He trots off to the kwalitee lingerie dept.. whipping out his MAGIK-MARKER(C) he makes little smiley-faces over all the crotches (sorry ladies) of the panties.. illustration.. * * _ !_____! and a fone number of an arch-enemy... Well, it is about time to leave but before he goes he makes one last trip to the page fone and says "ATTENTION K-MART SHOPPERS, THERE ARE BLUE-LIGHT (YAY) SPECIALS IN THE KWALITEE K-MART SHOE, BATHROBE, KITCHEN APPLIANCE, TV, STEREO, LINGERIE, FOODSTUFF, COMPUTER, AND SHAMPOO DEPARTMENTS..." In the commotion of the greasers running this way and that to get to these precious items our wonderful guy slips out the back door and into the parking lot as the TV's go blaring and the guy plugs in the computer.... *** ***** ***** ** ** * * * * * * * ** * * * * * * * * *** * * ** * * * * * *