Title:   Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries

Subject:  

Author:   Albrecht Durer

Keywords:  

Creator:  

PDF Version:   1.2



Contents:

Page No 1

Page No 2

Page No 3

Page No 4

Page No 5

Page No 6

Page No 7

Page No 8

Page No 9

Page No 10

Page No 11

Page No 12

Page No 13

Page No 14

Page No 15

Page No 16

Page No 17

Page No 18

Page No 19

Page No 20

Page No 21

Page No 22

Page No 23

Page No 24

Page No 25

Page No 26

Page No 27

Page No 28

Page No 29

Page No 30

Page No 31

Page No 32

Page No 33

Page No 34

Page No 35

Bookmarks





Page No 1


Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries

Albrecht Durer



Top




Page No 2


Table of Contents

Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries.................................................................................1

Albrecht Durer.........................................................................................................................................1

BASIC BACKGROUND........................................................................................................................1

BRIEF EXCERPT FROM THE INTRODUCTION TO THE 1913 EDITION,  WRITTEN BY 

ROGER FRY (18661934):....................................................................................................................1

CAST OF [SOME OF THE] CHARACTERS: .......................................................................................2

PART 1: LETTERS FROM VENICE TO WILIBALD PIRKHEIMER .................................................3

PART II: DIARY OF A JOURNEY THE NETHERLANDS (July, 1520 July,  1521).....................12


Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries

i



Top




Page No 3


Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low

Countries

Albrecht Durer

Translated by Rudolf Tombo

BASIC BACKGROUND 

BRIEF EXCERPT FROM THE INTRODUCTION TO THE 1913  EDITION, WRITTEN BY ROGER

FRY (18661934):



CAST OF [SOME OF THE] CHARACTERS: 

PART 1: LETTERS FROM VENICE TO WILIBALD PIRKHEIMER 

PART II: DIARY OF A JOURNEY THE NETHERLANDS (July,  1520 July, 1521)  

BASIC BACKGROUND

Albrecht Durer (14711528) was probably the greatest  graphical  artist of the Northern Renaissance.  He is the

first to have elevated  the selfportrait to a high art form,  and was known for his  fascination with animals,

which form  the subjects of many of his  graphical works.  He reveled in  portraying men of learning and/or high

stature as well as  peasants, believing that portraits of the latter  could be as  instructive as those of the former.

His marriage to his  wife Agnes was childless and banal, apparently because Durer  was too  preoccupied with

intellectual matters to be much  interested in  romantic pursuits. 

In the letters below, this unusually modern thinker  demonstrates  his noble, righteous utilitarian personal

philosophy, and meticulously  records his personal and travel  expenses, while journeying throughout  Venice

and various  other European cities and divided German states.  Numerous  kings and laypeople sought to meet

and host him, since he  was renowned and loved as a painter while still alive. He  comments on  Martin Luther,

Erasmus of Rotterdam and  painting, and demonstrates his  curious, inquiring nature. He  also describes his

visit to Zeeland to  see a beached whale,  which washed away before he got there; but during  this  visit, Durer

may have caught the disease from which he may  have  died several years later.  Like Rembrandt, he enjoyed

collecting  things, and demonstrates this in his letters. 

*********** 

BRIEF EXCERPT FROM THE INTRODUCTION TO THE 1913 EDITION,

WRITTEN BY ROGER FRY (18661934):

Whatever one's final estimate of his art, Durer's  personality is  at once so imposing and so attractive, and  has

been so endeared to us  by familiarity, that something of  this personal attachment has been  transferred to our

aesthetic judgment.  The letters from Venice and  the Diary  of his journey in the Netherlands, which form the

contents  of this volume, are indeed the singularly fortunate means  for this  pleasant intercourse with the man

himself. They  reveal Durer as one of  the distinctively modern men of the  Renaissance: intensely, but not

arrogantly, conscious of his  own personality; accepting with a  pleasant ease the  universal admiration of his

geniusa personal  admiration,  too, of an altogether modern kind; careful of his fame as  one who foresaw its

Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries 1



Top




Page No 4


immortality. They show him as having,  though in a  far less degree, something of Leonardo da  Vinci's

scientific interest,  certainly as possessing a  quick, though naive curiosity about the  world and a quite  modern

freedom from superstition. It is clear that  his  dominating and yet kindly personality, no less than his  physical

beauty and distinction, made him the center of  interest wherever he  went. His easy and humorous good

fellowship, of which the letters to  Pirkheimer are eloquent,  won for him the admiring friendship of the  best

men of his  time. 

To all these characteristics we must add a deep and sincere  religious feeling, which led him to side with the

leaders of  the  Reformation, a feeling which comes out in his passionate  sense of loss  when he thinks that

Luther is about to be put  to death, and causes him  to write a stirring letter to  Erasmus, urging him to continue

the work  of reform. For all  that, there is no trace in him of either  Protestantism or  Puritanism. He was perhaps

fortunatecertainly as an  artist  he was fortunateto live at a time when the line of  cleavage  between the

reformers and the Church was not yet so  marked as to  compel a decisive action. 

*********** 

CAST OF [SOME OF THE] CHARACTERS:

Agnes: Durer's wife

Wilibald Pirkheimer: Durer's best friend

Wolgemut: The master painter to whom Durer began formal

training as an apprentice.  Later, Durer painted a richly

detailed selfportrait of him.

Giovanni Bellini: Famous Renaissance painter and

contemporary of Durer.

Jan van Eyk: Famous Renaissance painter.

Imhof: Hans Imhof, the elder, at Nuremberg; the younger

Imhof was in Venice.

Schott: Kunz Schott, an enemy of the town of Nuremberg.

Weisweber: A Nuremberg general.

************ 

FORMS OF MONEY REFERRED TO IN THE LETTERS: 

Marcelli: A Venetian coin worth 10 soldi.  Stiver: A Netherlandish  coin worth about 80 pfennigs.  Philip's: A

Netherlandish coin worth  rather less than a  Rhenish florin.  Crown: A Netherlandish coin worth  6.35 marks.

Noble: The Rosennobel = 8 marks, 20 pfennigs.  The Flemish  noble = 9 marks, 90 pfennigs.  Blanke: A silver

coin = 2 stivers.  Angel: An English coin = 2 florins, 2 stivers Netherlandish.  ************* 


Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries

CAST OF [SOME OF THE] CHARACTERS: 2



Top




Page No 5


PART 1: LETTERS FROM VENICE TO WILIBALD PIRKHEIMER

Venice, 6th January, 1506 

To the Honourable and wise Wilibald Pirkheimer, in  Nuremberg. 

My dear Master, To you and all yours, many happy good New  Years.  My willing service to you, dear Herr

Pirkheimer. Know  that I am in  good health; may God send you better even than  that. Now as to what  you

commissioned me, namely, to buy a  few pearls and precious stones,  you must know that I can  find nothing

good enough or worth the money:  everything is  snapped up by the Germans. 

Those who go about on the Riva always expect four times the  value  for anything, for they are the falsest

knaves that  live there. No one  expects to get an honest service of them.  For that reason some good  people

warned me to be on my guard  against them. They told me that  they cheat both man and  beast, and that you

could buy better things  for less money  at Frankfort than at Venice. 

As for the books which I was to order for you, Imhof has  already  seen to it, but if you are in need of anything

else,  let me know, and  I shall do it for you with all zeal.  And  would to God that I could do  you some real

good service. I  should gladly accomplish it, since I  know how much you do  for me. 

And I beg of you be patient with my debt, for I think  oftener of  it than you do. As soon as God helps me to

get  home I will pay you  honourably, with many thanks; for I have  to paint a picture for the  Germans, for

which they are  giving me 110 Rhenish gulden, which will  not cost me as much  as five. I shall have finished

laying and scraping  the  groundwork in eight days, then I shall at once begin to  paint,  and if God will, it shall

be in its place for the  altar a month after  Easter. 

[Editor note: This refers to the [altarpiece called the]  "Madonna  of the Rose Garlands," painted for the chapel

of S.  Bartolommeo, the  burialplace of the German colony. About  the year 1600 it was bought  for a high

price by the Emperor  Rudolf II, who is said to have had it  carried [over the  Alps] by four men all the way to

Prague to avoid the  risk of  damage in transport. [It suffered serious water damage  during  the Thirty Years'

War of 16181648, and many parts of  it had to be  repainted to replace much of the original paint  that was

lost, but] it  still remains one of the most  important [and lavishly colored] of all  Durer's works.] 

The money I hope, if God will, to put by; and from that I  will pay  you: for I think that I need not send my

mother and  wife any money at  present; I left 10 florins with my mother  when I came away; she has  since got

9 or 10 florins by  selling works of art. Dratzieher has paid  her 12 florins,  and I have sent her 9 florins by

Sebastian Imhof, of  which  she has to pay Pfinzing and Gartner 7 florins for rent. I  gave  my wife 12 florins

and she got 13 more at Frankfort,  making all  together 25 florins, so I don't think she will be  in any need, and

if  she does want anything, her brother will  have to help her, until I  come home, when I will repay him

honourably. Herewith let me commend  myself to you. 

Given at Venice on the day of the Holy Three Kings  (Epiphany), the  year 1506.  Greet for me Stephen

Paumgartner  and my other good friends  who ask after me. 

Albrecht Durer 

7th February, 1506 

First my willing service to you, dear Master.  If it is well  with  you, I am as wholeheartedly glad as I should

be for  myself. I wrote  to you recently. I hope the letter reached  you. In the meantime my  mother has written


Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries

PART 1: LETTERS FROM VENICE TO WILIBALD PIRKHEIMER 3



Top




Page No 6


to me, chiding me  for not writing to you, and has  given me to understand that  you are displeased with me

because I do  not write to you;  and that I must excuse myself to you fully. And she  is much  worried about it,

as is her wont. Now I do not know what  excuse to make, except that I am lazy about writing and that  you

have  not been at home. But as soon as I knew that you  were at home or were  coming home, I wrote to you at

once; I  also specially charged Castel  (Fugger) to convey my service  to you. Therefore I most humbly beg you

to forgive me, for I  have no other friend on earth but you; but I do  not believe  you are angry with me, for I

hold you as no other than a  father. 

How I wish you were here at Venice, there are so many good  fellows  among the Italians who seek my

company more and more  every daywhich  is very gratifying to memen of sense, and  scholarly, good

luteplayers, and pipers, connoisseurs in  painting, men of much noble  sentiment and honest virtue, and  they

show me much honour and  friendship. On the other hand,  there are also amongst them the most  faithless,

lying,  thievish rascals; such as I scarcely believed could  exist on  earth; and yet if one did not know them, one

would think  that they were the nicest men on earth. I cannot help  laughing to  myself when they talk to me:

they know that  their villainy is well  known, but that does not bother them. 

I have many good friends among the Italians who warn me not  to eat  and drink with their painters, for many

of them are  my enemies and  copy my work in the churches and wherever  they can find it; afterwards  they

criticize it and claim  that it is not done in the antique style  and say it is no  good, but Giambellin (Giovanni

Bellini) has praised  me  highly to many gentlemen. He would willingly have something  of  mine, and came

himself to me and asked me to do something  for him, and  said that he would pay well for it, and  everyone

tells me what an  upright man he is, so that I am  really friendly with him. He is very  old and yet he is the  best

painter of all. 

[Editor's note: The character of Bellini agrees with all we  know  of him. Camerarius tells an amusing story of

the two  artists, to the  effect that Bellini once asked Durer for one  of the brushes with which  he painted hairs.

Durer produced  several quite ordinary brushes and  offered them to Bellini.  Bellini replied that he did not

mean those,  but some brush  with the hairs divided which would enable him to draw a  number of fine parallel

lines such as Durer did. Durer  assured him  that he used no special kind, and proceeded to  draw a number of

long  wavy lines like tresses with such  absolute regularity and parallelism  that Bellini declared  that nothing

but seeing it done would have  convinced him  that such a feat of skill was possible.] 

And the thing which pleased me so well eleven years ago  pleases me  no longer, and if I had not seen it

myself, I  would not have believed  anyone who told me. And you must  know too that there are many better

painters here than  Master Jacob (Jacopo de Barbari), though Antonio  Kolb would  take an oath that there was

no better painter on earth than  Jacob. Others sneer at him and say if he were any good, he  would stay  here. I

have only today begun the sketch of my  picture, for my hands  are so scabby that I could not work,  but I have

cured them. 

And now be lenient with me and do not get angry so quickly,  but be  gentile like me. You will not learn from

me, I do not  know why. My  dear, I should like to know whether any of your  loves is deadthat  one close by

the water, for instance, or  the one like [drawing of a  flower] or [drawing of a brush]  or [drawing of a running

dog]'s girl  so that you might get  another in her stead. 

Given at Venice at the ninth hour of the night on Saturday  after  Candlemas in the year 1506.  [Editor's note:

Reckoning  from sunset, at  this season [this] would be about 2:30 a.m.]  Give my service to  Stephen

Paumgartner and to Masters Hans  Harsdorfer and Volkamer. 

Albrecht Durer 

28th February, 1506 


Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries

PART 1: LETTERS FROM VENICE TO WILIBALD PIRKHEIMER 4



Top




Page No 7


First my willing service to you, dear Herr Pirkheimer. If  things  go well with you, then I am indeed glad.

Know, too,  that by the grace  of God I am doing well and working fast.  Still I do not expect to have  finished

before Whitsuntide.  I have sold all my pictures except one.  For two I got 24  ducats, and the other three I gave

for these three  rings,  which were valued in the exchange as worth 24 ducats, but I  have shown them to some

good friends and they say they are  only worth  22, and as you wrote to me to buy you some  jewels, I thought

that I  would send you the rings by Franz  Imhof. Show them to people who  understand them, and if you  like

them, keep them for what they are  worth. In case you do  not want them, send them back by the next

messenger, for  here at Venice a man who helped to make the exchange  will  give me 12 ducats for the

emerald and 10 ducats for the ruby  and  diamond, so that I need not lose more than 2 ducats. 

I wish you had occasion to come here, I know the time would  pass  quickly, for there are so many nice men

here, real  artists. And I have  such a crowd of foreigners (Italians)  about me that I am forced  sometimes to

shut myself up, and  the gentlemen all wish me well, but  few of the painters. 

Dear Master, Andreas Kunhofer sends you his service and  means to  write to you by the next courier.

Herewith let me  be commended to you,  and I also commend my mother to you. I  am wondering greatly why

she  has not written to me for so  long, and as for my wife, I begin to  think that I have lost  her, and I am

surprised too that you do not  write to me, but  I have read the letter which you wrote to Sebastian  Imhof  about

me. Please give the two enclosed letters to my mother,  and have patience, I pray, till God brings me home,

when I  will  honourably repay you. My greetings to Stephen  Pirkheimer and other  good friends, and let me

know if any of  your loves are dead. Read this  according to the sense: I am  hurried. 

Given in Venice, the Sunday before Whitsunday, the year  1506. 

Albrecht Durer 

[p.s.] Tomorrow it is good to confess. 

8th March, 1506 

First my willing service to you, dear Herr Pirkheimer. I  send you  herewith a ring with a sapphire about which

you  wrote so urgently. I  could not send it sooner, for the past  two days I have been running  around to all the

German and  Italian goldsmiths that are in all Venice  with a good  assistant whom I hired: and we made

comparisons, but were  unable to match this one at the price, and only after much  entreaty  could I get it for 18

ducats 4 marcelli from a man  who was wearing it  on his own hand and who let me have it as  a favour, as I

gave him to  understand that I wanted it for  myself. And as soon as I had bought it  a German goldsmith

wanted to give me 3 ducats more for it than I paid,  so I  hope that you will like it. Everybody says that it is a

good  stone, and that in Germany it would be worth about 50  florins;  however, you will know whether they

tell truth or  lies. I understand  nothing about it. I had first of all  bought an amethyst for 12 ducats  from a man

whom I thought  was a good friend, but he deceived me, for  it was not worth  7; but the matter was arranged

between us by some  good  fellows: I will give him back the stone and make him a  present  of a dish of fish. I

was glad to do so and took my  money back quickly.  As my good friend values the ring, the  stone is not worth

much more  than 10 Rhenish florins, whilst  the gold of the ring weighs about up  to 5 florins, so that I  have not

gone beyond the limit set me, as you  wrote "from 15  to 20 florins." But the other stone I have not yet been

able  to buy, for 10 one finds them rarely in pairs; but I will do  all  I can about it. They say here that such

trumpery fool's  work is to be  had cheaper in Germany, especially now at the  Frankfurt Fair. For the  Italians

take such stuff abroad, and  they laugh at me, especially  about the jacinth cross, when I  speak of 2 ducats, so

write quickly  and tell me what I am to  do. I have heard of a good diamond ornament  in a certain  place, but I

do not yet know what it will cost. I shall  buy  it for you until you write again, for emeralds are as dear  as

anything I have seen in all my days. It is easy enough  for anyone to  get a small amethyst if he thinks it worth

20  or 25 ducats. 


Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries

PART 1: LETTERS FROM VENICE TO WILIBALD PIRKHEIMER 5



Top




Page No 8


It really seems to me you must have taken a mistress; only  beware  you don't get a master.  But you are wise

enough  about your own  affairs. 

Dear Pirkheimer, Andreas Kunhofer sends you his service. He  intends in the meantime to write to you, and he

prays you if  necessary to explain for him to the Council why he does not  stay at  Padua; he says there is

nothing there for him to  learn. Don't be angry  I pray you with me for not sending all  the stones on this

occasion,  for I could not get them all  ready. My friends tell me that you should  have the stone set  with a new

foil and it will look twice as good  again, for  the ring is old, and the foil spoiled. And I beg you too to  tell my

mother to write me soon and have good care of  herself.  Herewith I commend myself to you. 

Given at Venice on the second Sunday in Lent, 1506. 

Albrecht Durer 

[p.s.] Greetings to your loves. 

2nd April, 1506 

First my willing service to you, dear  Sir. 

I received a letter from you on the Thursday before Palm  Sunday,  together with the emerald ring, and went

immediately  to the man from  whom I got the rings. He will give me back  my money for it, although  it is a

thing that he does not  like to do; however, he has given me  his word and he must  hold to that. Do you know

that the jewelers buy  emeralds  abroad and sell them here at a profit? But my friends tell  me that the other two

rings are well worth 6 ducats apiece,  for they  say that they are fine and clear and contain no  flaws. And they

say  that instead of taking them to the  valuer you should enquire for such  rings as they can show  you and then

compare them and see whether they  are like  them; and if when I got them by exchange I had been willing  to

lose 2 ducats on the three rings, Bernard Holzbeck, who  was  present at the transaction, would have bought

them of  me. I have since  sent you a sapphire ring by Franz Imhof, I  hope it has reached you. I  think I made a

good bargain at  that place, for they offered to buy it  of me at a profit on  the spot. But I shall find out from

you, for you  know that I  understand nothing about such things and am forced to  trust  those who advise me. 

The painters here you must know are very unfriendly to me.  They  have summoned me three times before the

magistrates,  and I have had to  pay 4 florins to their School. You must  know too that I might have  gained

much money if I had not  undertaken to make the painting for the  Germans, for there  is a great deal of work in

it and I cannot well  finish it  before Whitsuntide; yet they only pay me 85 ducats for it.  [Editor's note: Bellini

at this time received 100 ducats for  a large  picture].  That, you know, will go in living  expenses, and then I

have  bought some things, and have sent  some money away, so that I have not  much in hand now; but I  have

made up my mind not to leave here until  God enables me  to repay you with thanks and to have too florins

over  besides. I should easily earn this if I had not got to do  the German  picture, for, except the painters,

everyone  wishes me well. 

Please tell my mother to speak to Wolgemut about my brother,  and  to ask him whether he can give him work

until I get  back, or whether  he can find employment with others.  [Editor's note: Durer's brother  was Hans

Durer, who was  fifteen at this date.  He became a painter of  secondrate  ability, and afterwards helped

Albrecht in the decoration  of  the Emperor Maximilian's prayer book].  I should like to  have  brought him with

me to Venice, which would have been  useful both to me  and to him and he would have learned the  language,

but she was afraid  that the sky would fall on him.  I pray you keep an eye on him: women  are no use for that.

Tell the boy, as you can so well, to be studious  and  independent till I come, and not to rely on his mother, for

I  cannot do everything although I shall do my best. If it  were only for  myself, I should not starve; but to

provide  for so many is too hard  for me, and nobody is throwing money  away. 


Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries

PART 1: LETTERS FROM VENICE TO WILIBALD PIRKHEIMER 6



Top




Page No 9


Now I commend myself to you, and tell my mother to be ready  to  sell at the Crown Fair. I am expecting my

wife to come  home, and have  written to her too about everything. I shall  not purchase the diamond  ornament

until you write.  I do not  think I shall be able to return  home before next Autumn.  What I earn for the picture

which was to have  been ready by  Whitsuntide will all be gone in living expenses and  payments. But what I

gain afterwards I hope to save.  If you  think it  right, say nothing of this and I shall keep putting  it off from day

to  day and writing as though I was just  coming. Indeed I am quite  irresolute; I do not know myself  what I

shall do. 

Write to me again soon. 

Given on Thursday before Palm Sunday in the year 1506. 

Albrecht Durer 

[p.s.] Your servant 

23rd April, 1506 

First my willing service to you, dear Sir. I wonder why you  do not  write to me to say how you like the

sapphire ring  which Hans Imhof has  sent you by the messenger Schon from  Augsburg. I do not know whether

it has reached you or not. I  have been to Hans Imhof and enquired, and  he says that he  knows no reason why

it should not have reached you,  and  there is a letter with it which I wrote to you, and the  stone is  done up in a

sealed packet and has the same size as  is drawn here, for  1 drew it in my notebook.  I managed to  get it only

after hard  bargaining.  The stone is clear and  fine, and my friends say it is  very good for the money I  gave for

it.  It weighs about 3 florins  Rhenish, and I gave  for it 18 ducats and 4 marzelle, and if it should  be lost I

should be half mad, for it has been valued at quite twice  what I gave for it. There were people who would

have given  me more  for it the moment I had bought it. So, dear Herr  Pirkheimer, tell Hans  Imhof to enquire

of the messenger what  he has done with the letter and  packet. The messenger was  sent off by Hans Imhof the

younger on the  11th March. 

Now may God keep you, and let me commend my mother to you.  Tell  her to take my brother to Wolgemut

that he may work and  not be idle. 

Ever your servant. 

Read by the sense. I am in a hurry, for I have seven letters  to  write, part written. I am sorry for Herr Lorenz.

Greet  him and Stephen  Paumgartner. 

Given at Venice in the year 1506, on St. Mark's Day. 

Write me an answer soon, for I shall have no rest till I  hear.  Andreas Kunhofer is deadly ill as I have just

heard. 

Albrecht Durer 

28th August, 1506 

To the first greatest man in the world; your servant and  slave,  Albert Durer, sends salutation to his

magnificent  Master Wilibaldo  Pirkamer. By my faith, I hear gladly and  with great pleasure of your  health and

great honour, and I  marvel how it is possible for a man  like you to stand  against so many, tyrants, bullies, and

soldiers. Not  otherwise than by the grace of God. When I read your letter  about  this strange abuse it gave me


Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries

PART 1: LETTERS FROM VENICE TO WILIBALD PIRKHEIMER 7



Top




Page No 10


great fright; I thought  it was a serious  matter. But I warrant you frighten even  Schott's men, for you look  wild

enough, especially on holy  days with your skipping gait! But it  is very improper for  such a soldier to smear

himself with civet. You  want to be a  regular silk tail, and you think that if only you manage  to  please the

girls, it is all right. If you were only as  taking a  fellow as I am, I should not be so provoked. You  have so

many loves  that it would take you a month and more  to visit each. 

However, let me thank you for having arranged my affairs so  satisfactorily with my wife. I know there is no

lack of  wisdom in  you. If only you were as gentle as I am, you would  have all the  virtues. Thank you, too, for

everything you are  doing for me, if only  you would not bother me about the  rings. If they do not please you,

break off their heads and  throw them in the privy, as Peter Weisweber  says. 

What do you mean by setting me to such dirty work, I have  become a  gentiluomo at Venice. I have heard that

you can  make lovely rhymes;  you would be a find for our fiddlers  here. They play so beautifully  that they

weep over their own  music. Would God that our Rechenmeister  girl could hear  them, she would cry too. At

your command I will again  lay  aside my anger and behave even better than usual. 

But I cannot get away from here in two months, for I have  not  enough money yet to start myself off, as I have

written  to you before;  and so I pray you if my mother comes to you  for a loan, let her have  10 florins till God

helps me out.  Then I will scrupulously repay you  the whole. 

With this I am sending you the glass things by the  messenger. And  as for the two carpets, Anthon Kolb will

help  me to buy the most  beautiful, the broadest, and the  cheapest. As soon as I have them I'll  give them to

Imhof the  younger to pack off to you. I shall also look  after the  crane's feathers. I have not been able to find

any as yet.  But of swan's feathers for writing with there are plenty.  How would  it do if you stuck them on

your hats in the  meantime? 

A book printer of whom I enquired tells me that he knows of  no  Greek books that have been brought out

recently, but any  that he comes  across he will acquaint me with that I may  write to you about them. 

And please inform me what sort of paper you want me to buy,  for I  know of no finer quality than we get at

home. 

As to the Historical pieces, I see nothing extraordinary in  what  the Italians make that would be especially

useful for  your work. It is  always the same thing. You yourself know  more than they paint. I have  sent you a

letter recently by  the messenger Kannengiesser. Also I  should like to know how  you are managing with Kunz

Imhof. 

Herewith let me commend myself to you. Give my willing  service to  our prior. Tell him to pray God for me

that I may  be protected, and  especially from the French sickness, for  there is nothing I fear more  now and

nearly everyone has it.  Many men are quite eaten up and die of  it. And greet Stephen  Paumgartner and Herr

Lorenz and those who kindly  ask after  me. 

Given at Venice on the 18th August, 1506 

Albrecht Durer 

Noricus civis 

P.S. Lest I forget, Andreas is here and sends you his  service. He  is not yet strong, and is in want of money.

His  long illness and debts  have eaten up everything he had. I  have myself lent him 8 ducats, but  don't tell

anyone, in  case it should come back to him. He might think  I told you  in bad faith. You must know, too, that


Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries

PART 1: LETTERS FROM VENICE TO WILIBALD PIRKHEIMER 8



Top




Page No 11


he behaves himself  so  honourably that everyone wishes him well. I have a mind, if  the  King comes to Italy, to

go with him to Rome. 

8th September, 1506 

Most learned, approved, wise, master of many languages, keen  to  detect all uttered lies, and quick to

recognize real  truth,  honourable, Herr Wilibald Pirkheimer, your humble  servant, Albrecht  Durer, wishes you

all health, great and  worthy honour, with the devil  as much of such nonsense as  you like. 

I will wager that for this you too would think me an orator  of a  hundred headings. A chamber must have more

than four  corners which is  to contain gods of memory. I will not addle  my pate with it. I will  recommend it to

you, but I believe  that however many chambers there  may be in the head, you  would have a little bit in each

of them. The  Margrave would  not grant a long enough audience. A hundred headings  and to  each head say a

hundred words: that takes 9 days, 7 hours,  52  minutes, not counting the sighs, which I have not yet  reckoned;

but  you could not get through the whole in one go:  it would draw itself  out like some dotard's speech. 

I have taken every trouble about the carpets, but I cannot  find  any wide ones; they are all narrow and long.

However, I  still look out  for them every day, and so does Anthon Kolb. 

I gave your respects to Bernhard Hirschvogel and he sent you  his  service. He is full of sorrow for the death of

his son,  the nicest boy  that I have ever seen. I can't get any of  your fool's feathers. Oh, if  you were only here,

how you  would admire these fine Italian soldiers!  How often I think  of you! Would God that you and Kuntz

Kamerer could  see them!  They have scytheshaped lances with 218 points; if they only  touch a man with

them he dies, for they are all poisoned.  Heigho! but  I can do it well, I'll be an Italian soldier.  The Venetians

are  collecting many men; so is the Pope and  the King of France. What will  come of it I don't know, for  people

scoff at our King a great deal. 

Wish Stephen Paumgartner much happiness from me. I can't  wonder at  his having taken a taken wife. My

greeting to  Borsch, Herr Lorenz, and  our fair friend, as well as to your  Rechenmeister girl, and thank your

Club for its greeting;  says it's a dirty one. I sent you olivewood  from Venice to  Augsburg, where I let it stay,

a full ten hundred  weight.  But it says it won't wait, hence the stink. 

My picture [the selfportrait Durer painted?], you must  know, says  it would give a ducat for you to see it. It

is  well painted and finely  coloured. I have got much praise but  little profit by it. I could have  easily earned

200 ducats  in the time, and I have had to decline big  commissions in  order to come home. 

I have shut up all the painters, who used to say that I was  good  at engraving, but that in painting I didn't know

how to  handle my  colours. Now they all say they never saw better  colouring. 

My French mantle greets you, and so does my Italian coat. It  seems  to me that you smell of gallantry. I can

scent it from  here; and they  say here, that when you go courting, you  pretend to be no more than 25  years old.

Oh, yes!  Multiply  that and I`ll believe it. My friend,  there `s a devil of a  lot of Italians here who are just like

you. I  don't know how  it is! 

The Doge and the Patriarch have seen my picture.  Herewith  let me  commend myself as your servant. I really

must sleep,  for it's striking  seven at night, and I have already written  to the Prior of the  Augustines, to my

fatherinlaw, to  Mistress Dietrich, and to my wife,  and they are all sheets  cram full. So I have had to hurry

over this.  Read according  to the sense. You would do it better if you were  writing to  princes. Many good

nights to you, and days too. Given at  Venice on Our Lady's Day in September. 

You needn't lend my wife and mother anything.  They have got  money  enough. 


Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries

PART 1: LETTERS FROM VENICE TO WILIBALD PIRKHEIMER 9



Top




Page No 12


Albert Durer 

23 Sept. 1506 

Your letter telling me of the overflowing praise that you  received  from princes and nobles gave me great

allegrezza.  [Editor's note:  Allegrezza means "joy;" in Venetian in  original].  You must have  changed

completely to have become  so gentle; I must do likewise when I  meet you again. Know  also that my picture

is finished, likewise  another quadro,  [Editor's note: quadro is Venetian for "painting"] the  like  of which I

never made before. And as you are so pleased with  yourself, let me tell you now that there is no better

Madonna picture  in all the land, for all the painters praise  it as the nobles do you.  They say that they have

never seen  a nobler, more charming painting. 

The oil for which you wrote I am sending by Kannengiesser.  And  burnt glass that I sent you by Farbertell

me if it  reached you  safely. As for the carpets, I have not bought  any yet, for I cannot  find any square ones.

They are all  narrow and long. If you would like  any of these, I will  willingly buy them; let me know about it. 

Know also that in four weeks at the latest I shall be  finished  here, for I have to paint first some portraits that  I

have promised,  and in order that I may get home soon, I  have refused, since my  picture was finished, orders

for more  than 2,000 ducats; all my  neighbours know of this. 

Now let me commend myself to you. I had much more to write,  but  the messenger is ready to start: besides, I

hope, if God  will, to be  with you again soon and to learn new wisdom from  you. Bernhard  Holzbeck told me

great things of you, but I  believe that he did so  because you have become his brother  inlaw. But nothing

makes me more  angry than to hear anyone  say that you are handsome, for then I should  have to be  ugly; that

would make me mad. 

The other day I found a gray hair on my head, which was  produced  by sheer misery and annoyance. I think I

am fated  to have evil days.  My French mantle and the doublet and the  brown coat send you a hearty  greeting.

But I should like to  see what your drinking club can do that  you hold yourself so  high. 

Given the year 1506 on Wednesday after St. Matthew's 

Albrecht Durer 

About the 13th October, 1506 

Once I know that you are aware of my devotion to your  service,  there is no need to write about it; but so

much the  more necessary is  it for me to tell you of the great delight  it gives me to hear of the  high honour and

fame that you  have attained to by your manly wisdom  and learned skill.  This is the more to be wondered at,

for seldom or  never can  the like be found in a young body; but it comes to you by  the special grace of God, as

it does to me. How pleased we  both feel  when we think well of ourselves, I with my  picture, and you con

vostra  [with your] learning! When  anyone praises us we hold up our head and  believe him, yet  perhaps he is

only some false flatterer who is making  fun of  us, so don't credit anyone who praises you, for you have no

notion how unmannerly you are. 

I can readily portray you to myself standing before the  Margrave  and making pretty speeches.  You carry on

just as  though you were  making love to the Rosentaler girl, cringing  so. 

It did not escape me, when you wrote the last letter, you  were  full of amorous thoughts. You ought to be

ashamed of  yourself, for  making yourself out so good looking when you  are so old. Your flirting  is like a big

shaggy dog playing  with a little kitten. If you were  only as nice and sleek as  I am, I might understand it; but


Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries

PART 1: LETTERS FROM VENICE TO WILIBALD PIRKHEIMER 10



Top




Page No 13


when I get  to be a  burgomaster I will shame you with the Luginsland [Editor's  note: this was a Nuremberg

prison], as you do the pious  Zamener and  me. I will have you shut up there for once with  the Rechenmeister,

Rosentaler, Gartner, Schlitz, and Por  girls, and many others whom for  shortness I will not name.  They must

deal with you.  They ask after me  more than after  you, however, for you yourself write that both girls  and

ladies ask after methat is a sign of my virtue! But if God  brings me home again safely, I do not know how

I shall get  along with  you with your great wisdom: but I `m glad on  account of your virtue  and good nature;

and your dogs will  be the better for it, for you will  not beat them lame any  more. But if you are so highly

respected at  home, you will  not dare to be seen speaking with a poor painter in the  streets, it would be a great

disgrace, con poltrone di  pintore. 

Oh, dear Herr Pirkheimer, this very minute, while I was  writing to  you in good humour, the fire alarm

sounded and  six houses over by  Peter Pender's are burned, and woolen  cloth of mine, for which I paid  only

yesterday 8 ducats, is  burned; so I too am in trouble. There are  often fire alarms  here. 

As for your plea that I should come home quickly, I will  come just  as soon as I can; but I must first gain

money for  my expenses. I have  paid out about 100 ducats for colours  and other things, and I have  ordered

two carpets which I  shall pay for tomorrow; but I could not  get them cheaply. I  will pack them up with my

linen. 

As for your previous comment that I should come home soon or  else  you would give my wife a "washing,"

you are not  permitted to do so,  since you would ride her to death. 

Know, too, that I decided to learn dancing and went twice to  the  school, for which I had to pay the master a

ducat. No  one could get me  to go there again. To learn dancing, I  should have had to pay away all  that I have

earned, and at  the end I should have known nothing about  it. 

As for the glass, the messenger Farber will bring it to you.  I  cannot find out anywhere that they are printing

any new  Greek books. I  will pack up a ream of your paper for you. I  thought Keppler had more  like it; but I

have not been able  to get the feathers you wanted, and  so I bought white ones  instead. If I find the green ones,

I will buy  some and bring  them with me. 

Stephen Paumgartner has written to me to buy him fifty  Carnelian  beads for a rosary. I have ordered them,

but they  are dear. I could  not get any larger ones, and shall send  them to him by the next  messenger. 

As to your question as to when I shall come home, I tell  you, so  that my lords may make their arrangements,

that I  shall have finished  here in ten days. After that I should  like to travel to Bologna to  learn the secrets of

the art of  perspective, which a man there is  willing to teach me. I  should stay there about eight or ten days

and  then come back  to Venice; after that I should come with the next  messenger. 

How I shall freeze after this sun! Here I am a gentleman, at  home  a parasite. Let me know how old Dame

Kormer behaves as  a bride, and  that you will not grudge her to me. There are  many things about which  I

should like to write to you, but I  shall soon be with you. 

Given at Venice about the 14th day after Michaelmas, 1506. 

Albrecht Durer 

P.S. When will you let me know whether any of your children  have  died?  You also wrote me once that

Joseph Rummel had  married z's  daughter, and forgot to mention whose. How  should I know what you

mean? If I only had my cloth back! I  am afraid my mantle has been  burned too. That would drive me  crazy. I

seem doomed to bad luck; not  more than three weeks  ago a man ran away who owed me 8 ducats. 


Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries

PART 1: LETTERS FROM VENICE TO WILIBALD PIRKHEIMER 11



Top




Page No 14


PART II: DIARY OF A JOURNEY THE NETHERLANDS (July, 1520 July,

1521)

Anno 1520 

On Thursday after St. Kilian's Day, I, Albrecht Durer, at my  own  charges and costs, took myself and my wife

from  Nuremberg away to the  Netherlands, and the same day, after  we had passed through Eriangen,  we put

up for the night at  Baiersdorff, and spent there 3 crowns, less  6 pfennigs. From  thence on the next day,

Friday, we came to Forchheim,  and  there paid for the conveying thence on the journey to  Bamberg 22  pf.,

and presented to the Bishop a painted Virgin  and a "Life of the  Virgin," an "Apocalypse," and a florin's  worth

of engravings. He  invited me to be his guest, gave me  a tollpass and three letters of  introduction, and settled

my bill at the inn, where I had spent about  a florin. I paid  6 florins in gold to the boatmen who took me from

Bamberg to  Frankfurt.  Master Lucas Benedict and Hans the painter sent  me a present of wine. Spent 4 pf. for

bread and 13 pf. as  tips. 

Then I journeyed from Bamberg to Eltman and showed my pass,  and  they let me go free. And from there we

passed by Zeil;  in the meantime  I spent 21 pf. Next I came to Hassfurt, and  showed my pass, and they  let me

go without paying duty;  I paid 1 florin to the Bishop of  Bamberg's chancery.  Next I  came to Theres to the

monastery, and I  showed my pass, and  they also let me go free; then we journeyed to  Lower  Euerheim.  There

I stayed the night and spent I pf. Thence  we  went to Meinberg, and I showed my papers and was allowed  to

pass. Then  we came to Schweinfurt, where Dr. George  Rebart invited me, and he  gave us wine in the boat:

they let  me also pass free. 10 pf. for a  roast fowl, 18 pf. in the  kitchen and to the boy. Then we traveled to

Volkach and I  showed my pass, and we went on and came to Schwarzach,  and  there we stopped the night and

spent 22 pf., and on Monday  we  were up early and went toward Tettelbach and came to  Kitzingen, and I

showed my letter, and they let me go on,  and I spent 37 pf. After that  we went past Sulzfeld to  Marktbreit,

and I showed my letter and they  let me through,  and we traveled by Frickenhausen to Ochsenfurth, where  I

showed my pass and they let me go free: and we came to  Eibelstadt,  and from that to Haidingsfeldt, and

thence to  Wurzburg; there I showed  my pass and they let me go free.  Thence we journeyed to Erlabrunn and

stopped the night  there, and I spent 22 pf. From that we journeyed on  past  Retzbath and Zellingen and came

to Karlstadt; here I showed  my  pass and they let me go on. Thence I traveled to Gmunden,  and there we

breakfasted and spent 22 pf. I also showed my  pass, and they let me go  free. We traveled thence to

Hofstetten; I showed my pass, and they let  me through. We  came next to Lohr, where I showed my pass and

passed  on;  from there we came to Neustadt and showed our letter, and  they  let us travel on; also I paid 10 pf.

for wine and  crabs. From there we  came to Rothenfels, and I showed my  pass, and they let me go free, and

we stayed there for a  night, and spent 20 pf.; and on Wednesday early  we started  and passed by St. Eucharius

and came to HeidenfeId, and  thence to Triefenstein; from there we came to Homburg, where  I showed  my

pass and they let me through; from there we came  to Wertheim, and I  showed my letter, and they let me go

free, and I spent 57 pf. From  there we went to Prozelten;  here I showed my pass, and they let me  through.

Next we went  on past Freudenberg, where I showed my letter  once more, and  they let me through; from there

we came to Miltenberg  and  stayed there over night, and I also showed my pass and they  let  me go, and I

spent 61 pf.; from there we came to  Klingenberg. I showed  my pass and they let me through; and  we came to

Worth and from there  passed Obernburg to  Aschaffenburg; here I presented my pass and they  let me  through,

and I spent 52 pf.; from there we journeyed on to  Selgenstadt; from there to Steinheim, where I showed my

letter and  they let me go on, and we stayed with Johannes  for the night, who  showed us the town and was

very friendly  to us; there I spent 16 pf.,  and so early on Friday morning  we traveled to Kesselstadt, where I

showed my pass and they  let me go on; from there we came to Frankfurt,  and I showed  my pass again, and

they let me through, and I spent 6  white  pf. and one thaler and a half, and I gave the boy 2 white  pf.  Herr

Jacob Heller gave me some wine at the inn.  I  bargained to be  taken with my goods from Frankfurt to Mainz

for 1 florin and 2 white  pf., and I also gave the lad 5  Frankfurt thaler, and for the night we  spent 8 white pf.

On  Sunday I traveled by the early boat from  Frankfurt to Mainz,  and midway there we came to Hochst, where


Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries

PART II: DIARY OF A JOURNEY THE NETHERLANDS (July, 1520 July,  1521) 12



Top




Page No 15


I showed  my pass  and they let me go on; I spent 8 Frankfurt pf. there. From  there we journeyed to Mainz; I

have also paid I white pf.  for landing  my things, besides 14 Frankfurt thaler to the  boatmen and 18 pf. for a

girdle; and I took passage in the  Cologne boat for myself and my  things for 3 florins, and at  Mainz also I

spent 17 white pf. Peter  Goldschmidt, the  warden there, gave me two bottles of wine. Veit  Varnbuler  invited

me, but his host would take no payment from him,  insisting on being my host himself; they showed me much

honour. 

So I started from Mainz, where the Main flows into the  Rhine, and  it was the Monday after Mary Magdalen's

Day, and  I paid 10 thaler for  meat and bread, and for eggs and pears  9 thaler. Here, too, Leonhard

Goldschmidt gave me wine and  fowls in the boat to cook on the way to  Cologne. Master  Jobst's brother

likewise gave me a bottle of wine, and  the  painters gave me two bottles of wine in the boat. From there  we

came to Elfeld, where I showed my letter and they took no  toll; from  there we came to Rudesheim and I gave

2 white pf.  for loading the  boat; then we came to Ehrenfels, and there I  showed my letter, but I  had to give

two gold florins; if,  however, I were to bring them a free  pass within two months,  the customs officer would

give me back the 2  gold florins.  >From there we came to Bacharach, and there I had to  promise  in writing

that I would either bring them a free pass in two  months, or pay the toll; from there we came to Caub, and

there again  I showed my pass, but it would carry me no  further, and I had to  promise in writing as before;

there I  spent 11 thaler. Next we came to  St. Goar, and here I showed  my pass, and the customs officer asked

me  how they had  treated me elsewhere, so I said I would pay him nothing;  I  gave 2 white pf. to the

messenger. From there we came to  Boppard,  and I showed my pass to the Trier customhouse  officer, and they

let me  go through, only I had to certify  in writing under my seal that I  carried no common  merchandise, and

then the man let me go willingly. 

>From there we came to Lahnstein, and I showed my pass, and  the  customs officer let me go through, but he

asked me that  I should speak  for him to my most gracious Lord of Mainz,  and he gave me a can of  wine, too,

for he knew my wife well  and he was glad to see me. From  there we came to Engers,  which is in the Trier

territory; I presented  my pass and  they let me go through; I said, too, that I would mention  it  to my Lord of

Bamberg. From there we came to Andernach, and  I  showed my pass, and they let me go through; and I spent

there 7 thaler  and 4 thaler more; then on St. James's Day  early I traveled from  Andernach to Linz; from there

we went  to the custom house at Bonn, and  there again they let me go  through; from there we came to

Cologne, and  in the boat I  spent 9 white pf. and I more, and 4 pf. for fruit. At  Cologne I spent 7 white pf. for

unloading, to the boatmen 14  thaler,  and to Nicolas, my cousin, I made a present of my  black furlined coat

edged with velvet, and to his wife I  gave a florin; also at Cologne  Fugger gave me wine: Johann

Grosserpecker also gave me wine, and my  cousin Nicolas gave  me wine. They gave us also a collation at the

Barefoot  Convent, and one of the monks gave me a handkerchief;  moreover, Herr Johann Grosserpecker has

given me 12 measures  of the  best wine, and I paid 2 white pf. and 8 thaler to the  boy; I have  spent besides at

Cologne 2 florins and 14 white  pf. and 10 white pf.  for packing, and 3 pf. for fruit;  further, I gave I pf. at

leaving,  and I white pf. to the  messenger. 

>From there we journeyed on St. Pantaleon's Day from Cologne  to a  village called Busdorf.  We lay there

over night, and  spent 3 white  pf.; and early on Sunday, we traveled to  Rodingen, where we had  breakfast and

spent 2 white pf. and 3  pf. more, and again 3 pf. Thence  we came to FreiAldenhoven,  where we lay the

night, and spent 3 white  pf.; thence we  traveled early on Monday to Frelenberg, and passed the  little town of

Gangelt, breakfasting at a village called  Stisterseel,  and spent 2 white pf. 2 thaler, further 1 white  pf., and

again 2 white  pf. From there we journeyed to  Sittard, a pretty little town, and from  there to Stocken,  which

belongs to Liege; where we had a fine inn and  stayed  there over night, and spent 4 white pf. And when we

had  crossed over the Maas we started off early on Tuesday  morning and  came to Merten Lewbehen [sic]:

there we had  breakfast and spent 2  stivers and gave a white pf. for a  young fowl. From there we traveled

across the heath and came  to Stosser, where we spent 2 stivers, and  lay there the  night: from thence on

Wednesday morning early we  traveled to  West Meerbeck, where I paid 3 stivers for bread and wine;  and we

went on as far as Branthoek, where we had breakfast  and spent  1 stiver; from there we traveled to Uylenberg,


Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries

PART II: DIARY OF A JOURNEY THE NETHERLANDS (July, 1520 July,  1521) 13



Top




Page No 16


where we stayed the  night and spent 3 stivers; from there we  traveled on Thursday early to  op ten Kouys,

where we  breakfasted and spent 2 stivers; thence we came  to Antwerp. 

There I sent to Jobst Planckfelt's inn, and the same evening  the  Fugger's factor, by name Bernhard Stecher,

invited me  and gave us a  costly mealmy wife dined at the inn. I paid  the driver for bringing  us three, 3

florins in gold, and 2  stivers for carrying the goods. 

On Saturday after the Feast of St. Peter in Chains, my host  took  me to see the burgomaster's house at

Antwerp, which is  newly built and  large beyond measure, very well arranged  with extraordinarily  beautiful

large rooms; a tower,  splendidly ornamented; a very large  garden; in short, such a  noble house as I have never

seen in all  German lands. A very  long new street has been built in his honour, and  with his  assistance, leading

up to the house on both sides. I gave 3  stivers to the messenger, and 2 pf. for bread and 2 pf. for  ink; and  on

Sunday, which was St. Oswald's Day, the Painters  invited me to  their hall with my wife and maid, where

everything was of silver, and  they had other costly  ornaments and very costly meats; and all their  wives were

there too; and as I was being led to the table, everyone on  both sides stood up as if they were leading some

great lord.  There  were among them men of high position, who all showed  me the greatest  respect and bowed

low to me, and said they  would do everything in  their power to serve and please me.  And as I sat there in

honour,  there came the messenger of  the Town Council of Antwerp with two  servants and presented  to me

four cans of wine from the Magistrates of  Antwerp, who  told him to say that they wished thereby to show

their  respect for me and to assure me of their goodwill;  wherefore I  returned them my humble thanks and

offered my  humble services.  Thereupon came Master Peter, the town  carpenter, and gave me two cans  of

wine with offer of his  willing service; so when we had spent a long  time together  merrily, till late into the

night, they accompanied us  home  with lanterns in great honour. They begged me to be assured  of  their

goodwill, and promised that in whatever I did they  would help  me in every way; so I thanked them, and laid

down  to sleep. 

Also I have been in Master Quentin's house, and I have been  in all  the three great shooting places. [Editor's

note:  Quentin Matsys, the  painter].  I had a very splendid dinner  at Staiber's. Another time at  the Portuguese

factor's, whose  portrait I have drawn in charcoal; I  have made a portrait of  my host as well; Jobst Plankfelt

gave me a  branch of white  coral; paid 2 stivers for butter and 2 stivers to the  joiner  at the Painters' armoury. 

Also my host took me to the Painters' workshop in the  armoury at  Antwerp, where they are making the

triumphal  arches through which King  Charles is to make his entry. It  is 400 bows in length and each arch  is

40 feet wide: they  are to be set up on both sides of the streets,  beautifully  arranged and two stories high, and

on them they are to act  the plays; and this costs to make, 4,000 florins for the  joiners and  painters, and the

whole work is very  magnificently done. 

I have dined again with the Portuguese factor, and once with  Alexander Imhof. Sebald Fischer bought of me

at Antwerp  sixteen  "Small Passions" for 4 florins, thirtytwo of the  large books for 8  florins, also six

engraved "Passions" for  3 florins, also twenty  halfsheets of all kinds taken  together at 1 florin to the value of

3  florins, and again 5  1/4 florins' worth of quartersheets,fortyfive  of all  kinds at 1 florin, and eight

miscellaneous leaves at 1  florin;  it is paid. 

To my host I have sold a "Madonna" picture, painted on small  canvas, for 2 florins Rhenish. I took once more

the portrait  of Felix  the lute player. 1 stiver for pears and bread; 2  stivers to the  surgeonbarber: besides I

have given 14  stivers for three small  panels, besides 4 stivers for laying  in the white and preparing them.  I

have dined once with  Alexander the goldsmith, and once with Felix  Hungersberg;  once Master Joachim has

eaten with me, and his partner  also  once. 

I have made a drawing in half colours for the Painters. I  have  taken 1 florin for expenses. I made Peter

Wolffgang a  present of four  new little pieces. Master Joachim's partner  has again dined with me. I  gave


Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries

PART II: DIARY OF A JOURNEY THE NETHERLANDS (July, 1520 July,  1521) 14



Top




Page No 17


Master Joachim 1 florin's  worth of prints for lending me his  apprentice and colours,  and I gave his apprentice

3 crowns' worth of  prints. I have  sent the four new pieces to Alexander, the goldsmith. I  made  charcoal

portraits of these Genoese by name: Tomasin  Florianus  Romanus, native of Lucca, and his two brothers,

named Vincentius and  Gerhard, all three Bombelli. 

I have dined with Tomasin so often: IIIIIIIIIIII. The  treasurer  also gave me a "Child's Head" on linen and a

weapon from Calicut, and  one of the light wood reeds.  Tomasin Imhof has also given me a plaited  hat of

elder pith. 

I dined once more with the Portuguese; I also gave one of  Tomasin's brothers 3 florins' worth of engravings.

Herr  Erasmus has  given me a small Spanish mantilla and three  portraits of men.  Tomasin's brother gave me a

pair of gloves  for 3 florins' worth of  engravings. I have once more made  the portrait of Tomasin's brother

Vincentius; and I gave  Master Augustus Lombard two of the Imagines.  Moreover, I  made a portrait of the

crookednosed Italian named  Opitius.  Also my wife and maid dined one day at Herr Tomasin's; that  makes

four meals. 

Our Lady's Church at Antwerp is so vast that many masses may  be  sung there at one time without interfering

one with  another. The  altars are richly endowed; the best musicians  that can be had are  employed; the Church

has many devout  services and much stonework, and  in particular a beautiful  tower. I also visited the rich

Abbey of St.  Michael, where  are the finest galleries of stonework that I have ever  seen,  and a rich throne in

the choir. But at Antwerp they spare no  cost in such things, for they have plenty of money. 

I have made a portrait of Herr Nicolas, an astronomer who  lives  with the King of England, and is very helpful

and of  great service to  me in many matters. He is a German, a  native of Munich. Also I have  made the

portrait of Tomasin's  daughter, Maid Zutta by name. Hans  Pfaffroth gave me a  Philip's florin for taking his

portrait in  charcoal. I have  dined once more with Tomasin. My host's  brotherinlaw  entertained me and my

wife once. I changed 2 light  florins  for 24 stivers for living expenses; and I gave 1 stiver for  a  tip to a man

who let me see an altarpiece. 

The Sunday after the Feast of the Assumption I saw the great  procession of Our Lady's Church at Antwerp,

where all the  whole town  was gathered together, with all the trades and  professions, and each  was dressed in

his best according to  his rank; every guild and  profession had its sign by which  it might be recognized.

Between the  companies were carried  great costly gold polecandlesticks and their  long old  Frankish silver

trumpets; and there were many pipers and  drummers in the German fashion; all were loudly and noisily

blown and  beaten. I saw the procession pass along the  street, spread far apart  so that they took up much space

crossways, but close behind one  another: goldsmiths,  painters, stonecutters, broiderers, sculptors,  joiners,

carpenters, sailors, fishermen, butchers, leather workers,  cloth makers, bakers, tailors, shoemakers, and all

kinds of  craftsmen  and workmen who work for their livelihood.  There were likewise  shopkeepers and

merchants with their  assistants of all sorts. After  them came the marksmen with  their guns, bows, and

crossbows; then the  horsemen and foot  soldiers; then came a large company of the town  guard; then  a fine

troop of very gallant men, nobly and splendidly  costumed. Before them, however, went all the religious

orders and the  members of some foundations, very devoutly,  in their respective  groups. There was, too, in

this  procession, a great troop of widows,  who support themselves  by their own labour and observe special

rules,  all dressed  from head to foot in white linen robes made expressly for  the occasion, very sorrowful to

behold. Among them I saw  some very  stately persons, the Canons of Our Lady's Church  with all their  clergy,

scholars, and treasures. Twenty  persons bore the image of the  Virgin Mary and of the Lord  Jesus, adorned in

the richest manner, to  the honour of the  Lord God. The procession included many delightful  things  splendidly

got up, for example, many wagons were drawn along  with stagings of ships and other constructions. Then

there  came the  company of the Prophets in their order, and scenes  from the New  Testament, such as the

Annunciation, the Three  Magi riding great  camels, and other strange beasts, very  skillfully arranged, and also

how Our Lady fled into Egypt  very conducive to devotionand many  other things which for  shortness I


Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries

PART II: DIARY OF A JOURNEY THE NETHERLANDS (July, 1520 July,  1521) 15



Top




Page No 18


must leave out. Last of all came a  great dragon,  which St. Margaret and her maidens led by a girdle; she  was

extraordinarily beautiful. Behind her followed a St. George  with  his squire, a very fine cuirassier. There also

rode in  the procession  many pretty and richly dressed boys and girls  in the costumes of many  lands

representing various saints.  This procession from beginning to  end, where it passed our  house, lasted more

than two hours; there were  so many things  there that I could not write them in a book, so I let  it  alone. 

I visited Fugger's house in Antwerp, which is newly built,  with a  wonderful tower, broad and high, and with a

beautiful  garden, and I  also saw his fine stallions. Tomasin has given  my wife fourteen ells  of good thick

arras for a mantle and  three and a half ells of half  satin to line it. I drew a  design for a lady's forehead band

for the  goldsmith. 

The Portuguese factor has given me a present of wine in the  inn,  both Portuguese and French. Signor Rodrigo

of Portugal  has given me a  small cask full of all sorts of sweetmeats,  amongst them a box of  sugar candy,

besides two large dishes  of barley sugar, marchpane, many  other kinds of sugarwork,  and some sugarcanes

just as they grow; I  gave his servant  in return 1 florin as a tip. I have again changed for  my  expenses a light

florin for 12 stivers. 

The pillars in the Convent of St. Michael of Antwerp are all  made  out of single blocks of a beautiful black

touchstone.  Herr Egidius,  King Charles's warden, has taken for me from  Antwerp the "St. Jerome  in the

Cell," the "Melancholy," and  three new "Marys," the "Anthony"  and the "Veronica" for the  good sculptor,

Master Conrad, whose like I  have not seen; he  serves Lady Margaret, the Emperor's daughter. Also I  gave

Master Figidius a "Eustace" and a "Nemesis." I owe my host 7  florins, 20 stivers, I thalerthat is, on Sunday

before St.  Bartholomew: for sitting room, bedroom, and bedding I am to  pay him  11 florins a month. 

I came to a new agreement with my host on the 20th August  on the  Monday before St, Bartholomew's, I

am to eat with him  and pay 2  stivers for the meal, and extra for drink, but my  wife and the maid  can cook and

eat up here. 

I gave the Portuguese factor a statuette of a child: besides  that,  I gave him an "Adam and Eve," a "Jerome in

his Cell,"  a "Hercules," a  "Eustace," a "Melancholy," and a "Nemesis;"  then of the halfsheets,  three new

"Virgins," the  "Veronica," the "Anthony," "The Nativity,"  and "The  Crucifixion," also the best of the

quartersheets, eight  pieces, and then the three books of the" Life of the  Virgin," "The  Apocalypse," and the

"Great Passion," also the  "Little Passion" and  the "Passion" on copper, all together,  5 florins' worth. The same

quantity I gave to Signor  Rodrigo, the other Portuguese. Rodrigo has  given my wife a  small green parrot. 

VISIT TO BRUSSELS 

On the Sunday after St. Bartholomew's, I traveled with Herr  Tomasin from Antwerp to Mechlin, where we

lay for the night;  there I  invited Master Conrad and a painter with him to  supper, and this  Master Conrad is

the good carver in Lady  Margaret's service. From  Mechlin we traveled through the  small town of Vilvorde

and came to  Brussels on Monday at  midday; I gave the messenger 3 stivers; I dined  with my  lords at

Brussels; also once with Herr Bannisis, and I gave  him a "Passion" on copper. I gave the Margrave Hansen of

Brussels the  letter of recommendation which my lord of  Bamberg wrote for me, and I  made him a present of

a  "Passion," engraved on copper for a  remembrance. 

I have also dined once more with my lords of Nuremberg. I  saw in  the town hall at Brussels, in the golden

chamber,  four paintings which  the great Master Rogier did; and behind  the King's palace in Brussels,  the

fountains, labyrinth,  zoological garden. Anything more beautiful  and pleasing to  me, more like a paradise, I

have never seen. 


Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries

PART II: DIARY OF A JOURNEY THE NETHERLANDS (July, 1520 July,  1521) 16



Top




Page No 19


Erasmus is the name of the little man [Editor's note: not  Erasmus  of Rotterdam, but a clerk of Bannisis] who

wrote out  my supplication  at Jacob Bannisis' house. At Brussels there  is a very splendid town  hall, large and

covered with  beautiful stonework, with a noble open  tower. I have made a  portrait of Master Conrad of

Brussels by  candlelight; he is  my host. At the same time I drew Doctor Lamparter's  son in  charcoal, and also

the hostess. 

Also I have seen the things which they have brought to the  King  out of the new land of gold: a sun all of

gold, a whole  fathom broad,  and a moon, too, of silver, of the same size,  also two rooms full of  armour, and

the people there with all  manner of wondrous weapons,  harness, darts, wonderful  shields, extraordinary

clothing, beds, and  all kinds of  wonderful things for human use, much finer to look at  than  prodigies. These

things are all so precious that they are  valued  at 100,000 gulden, and all the days of my life I have  seen

nothing  that reaches my heart so much as these, for  among them I have seen  wonderfully artistic things and

have  admired the subtle ingenuity of  men in foreign lands;  indeed, I don't know how to express what I there

found. 

I also saw many other beautifu1 things at Brussels, and  especially  a great fish bone there, as vast as if it had

been built up of square  stones; it was a fathom long, very  thick, weighs up to 1 cwt. (15  centner), and it has

the form  as is here drawn; it stood behind on the  fish's head. 

I have also been in the Lord of Nassau's house, which is so  magnificently built and so beautifully decorated. I

have  again dined  twice with my lords. Lady Margaret sent after me  to Brussels and  promised that she would

speak in my behalf  to King Charles, and has  shown herself quite exceptionally  kind to me: I sent her my

engraved  "Passion" and such  another to her treasurer, Jan Marnix by name, and I  made his  portrait in

charcoal. I paid 2 stivers for a buffalo ring,  and also 2 stivers for opening St. Luke's picture.  When I  was in

Herr von Nassau's house I saw in the chapel the fine  painting that  Master Hugo has made, and I also saw two

large  beautiful halls, and  all the treasures in various parts of  the house, and the large bed in  which fifty men

can lie. And  I also saw the great stone which the  storm cast down in the  field close to Herr von Nassau. This

house lies  high, and  there is a most beautiful view at which one cannot but  wonder. And I think that in all

German lands there is not  the like of  it. 

Master Bernhard, the painter, invited me to dinner, and had  prepared a meal so costly that I do not think 10

florins  will pay for  it. Three friends invited themselves to it to  give me good company, to  wit, Lady

Margaret's treasurer,  whose portrait I made, and the King's  steward, de Metenye,  and the town treasurer, Van

Busleyden; I gave him  a  "Passion" engraved on copper, and he gave me in return a  black  Spanish bag worth 3

florins. And I also gave a  "Passion" engraved on  copper to Erasmus of Rotterdam;  likewise one to Erasmus,

the secretary  of Bannisis. The man  at Antwerp who gave me the "Child's Head" is  called Lorenz  Sterk. I took

the portrait in charcoal of Master  Bernhard,  Lady Margaret's painter. I have taken Erasmus of Rotterdam's

portrait once more. I gave Lorenz Sterk a sitting "St.  Jerome" and  the "Melancholy," and I made a portrait of

my  hostess's godmother. Six  people whose portraits I painted at  Brussels gave me nothing. I paid 3  stivers for

two buffalo  horns and 1 stiver for two Eulenspiegels. 

So then on the Sunday after St. Giles', I traveled with Herr  Tomasin to Mechlin and took leave of Herr Hans

Ebner, and he  would  take nothing for my expenses while I was with him  seven days; I paid 1  stiver on behalf

of Hans Geuder; I gave  1 stiver as a tip to the  host's servant; and at Mechlin I  took supper with the Lady

Nieuwekerke; and early on Monday I  traveled from Mechlin to Antwerp. 

AT ANTWERP (September 3  October 4, 1520) 

I breakfasted with the Portuguese factor, who gave me three  porcelain dishes, and Rodrigo gave me some

Calicut feathers.  I spent  1 florin and paid my messenger 2 stivers. I bought  Susanna a mantle  for 2 florins, 10

stivers. My wife paid 4  florins Rhenish for a  washtub, a bellows, a basin, a pair of  slippers, wood for cooking,


Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries

PART II: DIARY OF A JOURNEY THE NETHERLANDS (July, 1520 July,  1521) 17



Top




Page No 20


stockings, a cage for the  parrot, 2 jugs, and for tips; she spent,  moreover, for  eating, drinking, and various

necessaries, 21 stivers. 

Now on Monday after St. Giles' I am back again at Jobst  Planckfelter's, and have dined with him as many

times as are  drawn  hereIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII.  I gave Nicolas, Tomasin's  man, 1 stiver; I  paid 5 stivers for the little

frame, and 1  stiver more. My host gave  me an Indian cocoanut and an old  Turkish whip; then I have dined

IIIIIIIIIIIII more with  Tomasin. The two lords of Rogendorf have  invited me; I have  dined once with them

and made a large drawing of  their coat  of arms on wood, for engraving. I gave away 1 stiver; my  wife

changed a florin for 24 stivers; I gave 2 stivers as a  tip. I  have dined once in Focker's house with the young

Jacob Rehlinger, and  I have also dined once more with him.  My wife has changed a florin for  24 stivers for

expenses. I  gave to Wilhelm Hauenhut, the servant of my  lord Duke  Frederick, the Platzgraf, an engraved

"Jerome," and the two  new halfsheets, the "Mary " and the "Anthony." I gave Herr  Jacob  Bannisis a good

painting of a "Veronica" face, a  "Eustace," a  "Melancholy," and a sitting "Jerome," a "St.  Anthony," the two

new  "Marys," and the new "Peasants." And I  have given his secretary,  Erasmus, who wrote my  supplication,

a sitting "Jerome," a  "Melancholy," an  "Anthony," the two new "Marys," and the "Peasants,"  and I  have given

him also two small "Marys," and all together what  I  have given is worth 7 florins, and I have given Master

Marc, the  goldsmith, a "Passion" on copper, and he gave me 3  florins in payment;  besides this I have received

3 florins,  20 stivers, for prints. To the  glazier Honigen, I have given  four little engravings. I have dined  with

Herr Bannisis III.  I paid 4 stivers for carbon and black chalk; I  have given 1  florin, 8 stivers for wood, and

spent 3 stivers more. I  have  dined with the lords of Nuremberg IIIIIIIIII. Master  Dietrich,  the glass painter,

sent me the red colour which is  found in the new  bricks at Antwerp. I made charcoal portrait  of Jacob von

Lubeck; he  gave my wife a Philip's florin. I  have again changed a Philip's florin  for expenses. 

I presented to Lady Margaret a seated "Jerome" engraved on  copper.  I sold a woodcut "Passion" for 12

stivers, besides  an "Adam and Eve"  for 4 stivers. Felix, the captain and lute  player, bought a whole set  of

copperengravings and a  woodcut "Passion" and an engraved  "Passion," two halfsheets  and two

quartersheets, for 8 gold florins;  so I gave him  another set of engravings. I have taken Herr Bannisis's

portrait in charcoal. Rodrigo gave me another parrot, and I  gave his  boy 2 stivers for a tip. I gave Johann von

den  Winckel, the trumpeter,  a small woodcut "Passion," "St.  Jerome in his Cell," and a  "Melancholy." I paid

6 stivers  for a pair of gloves. I paid 3 stivers  for a bamboo rod, and  George Schlaudersbath gave me another

which cost  6 stivers. 

I have dined once with Wolff Haller, who is employed by the  Fuggers, when he had invited my lords of

Nuremberg. I have  received  for works of art, 2 Philip's florins, and 6  stivers. I have again  dined once with my

wife; I gave 1  stiver to Hans Denes' boy for a tip.  I have taken 100  stivers for works of art. 

I made a charcoal portrait of Master Jacob, Lord Rogendorf's  painter, and I have drawn for Lord Rogendorf

his arms on  wood, for  which he gave me seven ells of velvet. 

I dined once more with the Portuguese; I took the portrait  of  Master John Prost of Bruges, and he gave me 1

florin; it  was done in  charcoal; 23 stivers for a fur coat of rabbit  skin. I sent Hans  Schwarz 2 golden florins

for my picture in  a letter sent through the  Antwerp Fuggers to Augsburg, I  gave 31 stivers for a red woolen

shirt.  I dined once more  with Rogendorf. I gave 2 stivers for the colour  which is  found in the bricks; and I

paid 9 stivers for an ox horn. I  made a charcoal portrait of a Spaniard. I have dined once  with my  wife. I gave

2 stivers for a dozen little pipes; I  gave 3 stivers for  two little maplewood bowls, two such  Felix gave my

wife, and Master  Jacob, the painter from  Lubeck, has given my wife another; dined once  with  Rogendorf.  I

paid 1 stiver for the printed "Entry into  Antwerp," showing how the King was received with a splendid

triumph;  the gates were beautifully decorated, and there  were plays, much  rejoicing, and beautiful maidens in

tableaux vivants, whose like I  have seldom seen. Changed 1  florin for expenses. 


Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries

PART II: DIARY OF A JOURNEY THE NETHERLANDS (July, 1520 July,  1521) 18



Top




Page No 21


I have seen the bones of the great giant at Antwerp; his leg  above  his knee is five and a half feet long, and

beyond  measure heavy; so  were his shoulder bladesa single one is  broader than a strong man's  backand

his other limbs. The  man was eighteen feet high, and reigned  at Antwerp and did  great wonders, as is set out

in an old book which  belongs to  the town magistrates. 

Raphael of Urbino's effects have been all dispersed after  his  death, but one of his disciples, Tommaso of

Bologna by  name, a good  painter, desired to see me, so he came to me  and gave me a gold ring,  an antique

with a wellcut stone  worth 5 florins, but I have been  already offered twice as  much for it; in return I gave

him my best  engravings, worth  6 florins. I bought a piece of calico for 3 stivers,  I gave  the messenger 1

stiver, and spent 3 stivers in company. 

I presented to Lady Margaret, the Emperor's sister [Editor's  note:  Actually, she was his aunt], a whole set of

all my  works, and have  drawn her two pictures on parchment with the  greatest pains and care;  all this I have

put at 30 florins,  and I have had to draw the design  of the house for her  physician, the doctor, according to

which he  intends to  build one, and for drawing that I would not willingly take  less than 10 florins. I have

given the servant 1 stiver, and  I paid 1  stiver for brick colour; I have given Herr Nicolas  Ziegler a "Christ

lying dead," worth 3 florins. To the  Portuguese factor I gave a  painting of a "Child's Head,"  worth 1 florin. I

have given 10 stivers  for a buffalo horn;  I gave 1 gold florin for an elk's hoof. I have  done Master  Adrian's

portrait in charcoal. I gave 2 stivers for the  "Condemnation" and the "Dialogue," 3 stivers to the  messenger;

to  Master Adrian I have given 2 florins' worth of  works of art; bought a  piece of red chalk for 1 stiver. I  have

done Herr Wolff von Rogendorf  in silverpoint. Gave away  3 stivers; did the portrait of a noble lady  at

Tomasin's  house. I have given to Nicolas a "Jerome in the Cell,"  and  two new "Marys." On Monday after St.

Michael's Day, 1520, I  gave  to Tommaso of Bologna a whole set of prints to send for  me to Rome to  another

painter, who will send me Raphael's  work in return. I dined  once with my wife; gave 3 stivers  for the little

tract. The Bolognese  has painted my portrait,  which he will take with him back to Rome. I  bought an elk's

foot for 20 stivers, besides I paid 2 gold florins, 4  stivers, for Herr Hans Ebner's little panel; dined out;

changed a  crown for expenses; dined out. Am taking 11  florins for my expenses to  Aachen; have received 2

florins,  4 stivers, from Ebner; paid 9 stivers  for wood; gave Meyding  20 stivers for sending my box. 

I have taken the portrait of a lady of Bruges, who has given  me I  Philip's florin. I gave away 3 stivers as a tip;

paid 2  stivers for  fir cones and I for stone colour; paid 13  stivers to the furrier, 1  stiver for leather; bought two

mussels for 2 stivers. In John  Gabriel's house I have taken  the portrait of an Italian lord, who gave  me 2 gold

florins.  Bought a portmanteau for 2 florins, 4 stivers. 

VISIT TO AACHEN 

On Thursday after St. Michael's Day, I journeyed from  Antwerp to  Aachen, and I took 1 gulden and I noble

with me;  and after passing  through Maestricht we came to Gulpen, and  from there to Aix on Sunday;  there I

have spent up till now,  with the fare and all, 3 florins. At  Aachen I saw the well  proportioned pillars with

their good capitals  of green and  red porphyry and granite which Carolus [Charlemagne] had  brought from

Rome and set up there. These are made truly  according to  Vitruvius's writings. At Aachen I bought an ox

horn for 1 gold florin.  I have taken the portraits of Herr  Hans Ebner and George  Schlaudersbach, and Hans

Ebner's a  second time. I paid 2 stivers for a  fine whetstone, also 5  stivers for a bath and drinking in company;

changed 1 florin  for expenses. I gave the town servant who took me up  into  the hall 2 white pf.; spent 5 white

pf. With companions,  drinking and bathing; I have lost 7 stivers at play with  Herr Hans  Ebner at the Mirror. I

have made a charcoal  portrait of the young  Christopher Groland, also of my host,  Peter von Enden. I spent 3

stivers in company, and gave the  messenger 1 stiver. I have taken the  portraits of Paul  Topier and Martin

Pfinzing in my sketchbook. 

I have seen the arm of the Emperor Henry, the shirt and  girdle of  Our Lady, and other holy relics. I have

sketched  the Church of Our  Lady with its surroundings. I took Sturm's  portrait. Made the portrait  in charcoal


Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries

PART II: DIARY OF A JOURNEY THE NETHERLANDS (July, 1520 July,  1521) 19



Top




Page No 22


of Peter von Enden's  brotherinlaw. Have given 10 white  pf. for a large ox horn;  gave 2 white pf. for a tip,

and I have  changed 1 florin for  expenses. I have lost 3 white pf. at play, also 2  stivers;  gave 2 white pf. to the

messenger. 1 have given Tomasin's  daughter the painted "Trinity," it is worth 4 florins; paid  1 stiver  for

washing. I took the portrait in charcoal of the  Kopffrngrin's  sister at Aachen, and another in silverpoint.  Spent

3 white pf. for a  bath; paid 8 white pf. for a buffalo  horn; 2 white pf. for a girdle:  paid I Philip's florin for a

scarlet shawl; 6 pf. for paper; changed 1  florin for  expenses; paid 2 white pf. for washing. 

On the 23rd day of October King Charles was crowned at  Aachen;  there I saw all manner of lordly splendour,

the like  of which those  who live in our parts have never seenall,  as it has been described. 

I gave Mathes works of art worth 2 florins, and1 presented  Stephen, Lady Margaret's chamberlain, with 3

prints. Paid 1  florin,  10 white pf. for a cedarwood rosary; gave 1 stiver  to little Hans in  the stable, and 1 stiver

to the child in  the house; lost 2% stivers at  play; spent 2 stivers, gave 2  stivers to the barber. I have again

changed 1 florin; I gave  away 7 white pf. in the house on leaving. 

SECOND VISIT TO COLOGNE 

And I traveled from Aachen to Julich, and thence to...; paid  4  stivers for two eyeglasses. I played away 2

stivers in an  embossed  silver medal of the king. I have given 8 white pf.  for two ox horns.  On the Friday

before St. Simon and St.  Jude I left Aachen and traveled  to Duren, where I visited  the church where St.

Anne's head is. Thence  we traveled and  came on Sunday, which was St. Simon and St. Jude's  Day, to

Cologne. I had lodging, food, and drink at Brussels with my  lords of Nuremberg, and they would take

nothing from me for  it, and  at Aachen likewise I ate with them three weeks and  they brought me to  Cologne,

and would take nothing for it. 

I have bought a tract of Luther's for 5 white pf. besides 1  white  pf. for the "Condemnation of Luther," the

pious man,  besides 1 white  pf. for a Paternoster, and 2 white pf. for a  girdle, I white pf. for  one pound of

candles; changed 1  florin for expenses. I had to give  Herr Leonhard Groland my  great ox horn, and to Hans

Ebner I had to  give my large  rosary of cedarwood. Paid 6 white pf. for a pair of  shoes; I  gave 2 white pf. for a

little skull; 1 white pf. I gave for  beer and bread; 1 white pf. for a "pertele" [braid]. I have  given 4  white pf. to

two messengers; I have given 2 white  pf. to Nicolas's  daughter for lace, also 1 white pf. to a  messenger. I

gave prints  worth 2 florins to Herr Ziegler  Linhard; paid the barber 2 white pf.  paid 3 white pf. and  then 2

white pf. for opening the picture which  Master  Stephan made at Cologne; I gave the messenger 1 white pf.,

and  spent 2 white pf. drinking in company. I made the  portrait of  Gottschalk's sister: 1 paid I white pf. for a

little tract. 

At Cologne, on Sunday evening after All Saints' Day in the  year  1520, I saw the nobles dance and banquet in

the Emperor  Charles's  dancing saloon: it was splendidly arranged. I have  drawn for Staiber  his coat of arms

on wood. I gave a  "Melancholy" to a young count at  Cologne, and a new "Mary"  to Duke Frederick.  I have

made Nicolas  Hailer's portrait in  charcoal; paid 2 white pf. to the door porter. I  have given  3 white pf. for two

little tracts, also 10 white pf. for a  cow horn. At Cologne I went to St. Ursula's Church and to  her grave,  and

saw the holy maiden and the other great  relics. Fernberger's  portrait I took in charcoal; changed 1  florin for

expenses. I gave  Nicolas's wife 8 white pf. when  she invited me as a guest. I bought  two prints for 1 stiver.

Herr Hans Ebner and Herr Nicolas Groland  would take nothing  from me for eight days at Brussels, three

weeks at  Aachen,  and fourteen days at Cologne. I made the nun's portrait, and  gave 7 white pf. to the nun. I

made her a present of three  halfsheet  engravings on copper. 

My Confirmation from the Emperor came to my lords of  Nuremberg the  Monday after St. Martin's, the year

1520,  after great trouble and  labour. I gave Nicolas's daughter 7  white pf. on departing, 1 florin  to his wife,

and again 1  ort to his daughter on leaving; and I started  away from  Cologne. Before that, Staiber invited me

once as his guest,  and so did my cousin Nicolas once, and old Wolfgang once,  and once  besides I dined as his


Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries

PART II: DIARY OF A JOURNEY THE NETHERLANDS (July, 1520 July,  1521) 20



Top




Page No 23


guest. I have given  Nicolas's man a "Eustace"  on leaving, and his little  daughter another ort, as they took

much  trouble for me. I  have given 1 florin for a little ivory skull, and I  white  pf. for a turned box, also 7 white

pf. for a pair of shoes,  and  I gave Nicolas's man a "Nemesis" on leaving. 

SECOND JOURNEY FROM COLOGNE TO ANTWERP 

I started off early by boat from Cologne on Wednesday after  St.  Martin's, and went as far as . . . Paid 6 white

pf. for  a pair of  shoes. I gave 4 white pf. to the messenger. From  Cologne I traveled by  the Rhine to Zons,

from Zons to Neuss,  and from thence to Stain where  we stayed the day, and I  spent 6 white pf. Thence we

came to  Dusseldorf, a little  town, where I spent 2 white pf.; from thence to  Kaiserswerth; from thence to

Duisburg, another little town,  and we  passed two castles, Angerort and Rurort; thence we  went to Orsoy, a

little town; from thence we  went to  Rheinberg, another little town,  where I lay overnight, and  spent 6 white

pf.; from there I traveled to  the following  towns, Burg Wesel, Rees, and from there to Emmerich. We  came

next to Thomas, and from there to Nymwegen; there we stayed  over  the night and spent 4 white pf.; from

Nymwegen I  traveled to Tiel, and  from there to Herzogenbusch. At  Emmerich I stopped and spent 3 white  pf.

on a very good  meal. There I took the portrait of a goldsmith's  apprentice,  Peter Federmacher of Antwerp,

and of a woman. The reason  of  our staying was that a great storm of wind overtook us. I  spent  besides 5

white pf., and I changed 1 florin for  expenses; also I took  the host's portrait, and we did not  get to Nymwegen

until Sunday; I  gave the boatmen 20 white  pf. Nymwegen is a beautiful city, and has a  fine church and  a

wellsituated castle; from there we traveled to  Tiel,  where we left the Rhine and continued on the Maas to

Heerewarden, where the two towers stand; there we lay over  night, and  during this day I spent 7 stivers. From

there we  started early on  Tuesday for Bommel on the Maas; there a  great storm of wind overtook  us and we

hired some peasant  horses and rode without saddles as far as  Herzogenbusch, and  I paid 1 florin for the

journey by boat and horse.  Herzogenbusch is a beautiful city, and has an extremely  beautiful  church and a

strong fortress; there I spent 10  stivers, although  Arnold settled for the repast. The  goldsmiths came to me

and showed me  great honour. From there  we traveled on Our Lady's Day early and came  through the  large

and beautiful village of Oosterwyck. We breakfasted  at  Tilborch and spent 4 white pf.; from there we came to

Baarle, lay  the night there, and spent 3 stivers, and my  companions got into an  argument with the innkeeper,

so we  went on in the night to  Hoogstraten; there we stopped two  hours and went by St. Leonhard  Kirchen to

Harscht. We  breakfasted there and spent 4 stivers. 

SECOND STAY AT ANTWERP (November 22December 3, 1520) 

>From there we journeyed to Antwerp and gave the driver 15  stivers. This was on Thursday after Our Lady's

Assumption  [by error  for Presentation]; and I gave an engraving of the  "Passion" to John,  Jobst Schwager's

man, and I made a  portrait of Nicolas Sopalis, and on  the Thursday after Our  Lady's Assumption

[Presentation], 1520, I was  once more back  in Jobst Planckfelt's house; I have eaten with him IIII  times. My

wifeIIchanged 1 florin for expenses, besides a  crown; and  the seven weeks that I have been away my wife

and  maid have spent 7  crowns and bought another 4 florins' worth  of things. I spent 4  stivers in company. I

have dined with  Tomasin IIIIII times. On St.  Martin's Day my wife had her  purse cut off in Our Lady's

Church at  Antwerp; there were 2  florins in it, and the purse itself, besides  what was in it,  was worth another

florin, and some keys were in it,  too. On  the eve before St. Catherine's I paid Jobst Planckfelt, my  host, 10

gold crowns for my reckoning. I dined two times  with the  Portuguese. Rodrigo gave me six Indian nuts, so I

gave his boy 2  stivers for a tip. I paid 19 stivers for  parchment; changed 2 crowns  for expenses. 

I sold two "Adam and Eves," one "Sea Monster," one "Jerome,"  one  "Knight," one "Nemesis," one "St.

Eustace," one whole  sheet, besides  seventeen etched pieces, eight quarter  sheets, and ten woodcuts,  seven

of the bad woodcuts, two  books, and ten small wood "Passions,"  the whole for 8  florins. Also I exchanged

three large books for one  ounce  [ell of?] camlet. I changed a Philip's florin for expenses  and  my wife likewise

changed a florin. 


Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries

PART II: DIARY OF A JOURNEY THE NETHERLANDS (July, 1520 July,  1521) 21



Top




Page No 24


At Zierikzee in Zeeland a whale has been washed ashore by a  great  tide and storm; it is much more than a

hundred fathoms  long; no one in  Zeeland has ever seen one even onethird as  long, and the fish cannot  get

off the land. The people would  be glad to see it gone, for they  fear the great stink, for  it is so big they say it

could not be cut in  pieces and the  oil got out of it in half a year. 

Stephen Capello has given me a cedarwood rosary, in return  for  which I was to take and have taken his

portrait. I paid  4 stivers for  furnace brown and a pair of snuffers; I gave 3  stivers for paper; made  a portrait of

Felix, kneeling, in  his book in pen and ink, and Felix  gave me one hundred  oysters. I gave Herr Lazarus, the

great man, an  engraved  "Jerome" and three large books. Rodrigo sent me some wine  and oysters. I paid 7

white pf. for black chalk. I have had  to dinner  Tomasin, Gerhard, Tomasin's daughter, her husband,  the glass

painter  Hennick, Jobst and his wife, and Felix,  which cost 2 florins. Tomasin  made me a gift of four ells of

gray damask for a doublet. I have  changed a Philip's florin  for expenses. 

VISIT TO ZEELAND (December 314, 1520) 

On St. Barbara's Eve I traveled from Antwerp to Bergenop  Zoom; I  paid 2 stivers for the horse, and I spent

1 florin 6  stivers here. At  Bergen I bought my wife a thin  Netherlandish head cloth, which cost 1  florin, 7

stivers,  besides 6 stivers for three pairs of shoes, 1  stiver for  eyeglasses, and 6 stivers for an ivory button;

gave 2  stivers for a tip. I have drawn the portraits in charcoal of  Jan de  Has, his wife, and two daughters; and

the maid and  the old woman in  silverpoint, in my sketchbook. I saw the  Van Bergen house, which is a  very

large and beautiful  building. Bergen is a pleasant place in  summer, and two  great fairs are held there yearly. 

On Our Lady's Eve I started with my companions for Zeeland,  and  Sebastian Imhof lent me five florins; and

the first  night we lay at  anchor in the sea; it was very cold and we  had neither food nor drink.  On Saturday we

came to Goes, and  there I drew a girl in the costume of  the place. Thence we  traveled to Arnemuiden, and I

paid 15 stivers for  expenses.  We went by a sunken place, where we saw the tops of the  roofs standing up

above the water, and we went by the island  of  Wolfersdyk, and passed the little town Kortgene on  another

island  lying near. Zeeland has seven islands, and  Arnemuiden, where I lay the  night, is the biggest. From

there I traveled to Middelburg. There in  the abbey Jan de  Mabuse has made a great picture, not so good in the

drawing  as in the colouring. From there I went to the Veere, where  ships from all lands lie. It is a very fine

little town. 

But at Arnemuiden, where I landed, there happened to me a  great  misfortune. As we were coming to land and

getting out  our rope, just  as we were getting on shore, a great ship ran  into us so hard that in  the crush I let

everyone get out  before me, so that no one but myself,  George Kotzler, two  old women, the sailor, and a little

boy were left  in the  ship. When now the other ship knocked against us and I with  those mentioned was on the

ship and could not get out, the  strong  rope broke, and at the same moment a violent storm of  wind arose

which  forcibly drove back our ship. So we all  called for help, but no one  would risk himself, and the wind

carried us back out to sea. Then the  skipper tore his hair  and cried aloud, for all his men had landed and  the

ship was  unmanned. It was a matter of fear and danger, for there  was  a great wind and no more than six

persons in the ship, so I  spoke  to the skipper that he should take heart and have hope  in God, and  should take

thought for what was to be done. He  said that if he could  pull up the small sail, he would try  if we could come

again to land.  So we all helped one another  and pulled it halfway up with  difficulty, and went on again

towards the land. And when those on the  land who had already  given us up saw how we helped ourselves,

they too  came to  our aid, and we got to land. 

Middelburg is a good town; it has a very beautiful town hall  with  a fine tower. There is much art shown in all

things  here. There are  very rich and beautiful stalls in the abbey,  and a splendid gallery of  stone and a

beautiful parish  church.  The town is excellent for  sketching. Zeeland is  beautiful and wonderful to see on

account of the  water, for  it stands higher than the land. 


Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries

PART II: DIARY OF A JOURNEY THE NETHERLANDS (July, 1520 July,  1521) 22



Top




Page No 25


I have made a portrait of my host at Arnemuiden. Master  Hugo,  Alexander Imhof, and the Hirschvogel's

servant  Frederick gave me each  of them an Indian nut that they had  won at play, and the host gave me  a

sprouting bulb. 

Early on Monday morning we went back to the ship and set out  for  the Veere and for Zierikzee; I wanted to

get sight of  the great fish,  but the tide had carried it off again. I  paid 2 florins for fare and  expenses and 2

florins for a  rug, 4 stivers for a figcheese and 3  stivers for carriage,  and I lost 6 stivers at play. When we

came back  to Bergen I  gave 10 stivers for an ivory comb. 

I have taken Schnabhan's portrait, and I have also taken the  portrait of my host's soninlaw, Klautz. Gave 2

florins  less 5  stivers for a piece of tin; also 2 florins for a bad  piece of tin. I  have also taken the portrait of

little  Bernard of Brussels, George  Kotzler, and the Frenchman from  Kamrick; each of them gave me 1 florin

at Bergen. Jan de  Has' soninlaw gave me 1 Horn florin for his  portrait, and  Kerpen of Cologne also gave

me a florin, and besides  this I  bought two bedcovers for 4 florins less 10 stivers. I have  made the portrait of

Nicolas, the jeweler. These are the  number of  times that I have dined at Bergen since I came  from Zeeland:

IIIIIIIII  and once for 4 stivers. I paid the  driver 3 stivers and spent 8  stivers, and came back to  Antwerp, to

Jobst Planckfelt's, on Friday  after St. Lucy's,  1520, and I have dined this number of times with  him: IIII.  It is

paid, and my wife: IIII, and that is paid. 

AT ANTWERP (December, 1520  April, 1521) 

In return for the three books which I gave him, Herr Lazarus  of  Ravensburg has given me a big fish scale,

five snail  shells, four  silver medals, five copper ones, two little  dried fishes and a white  coral, four reed

arrows and another  white coral. I changed 1 florin  for expenses, and likewise  1 crown. I have dined alone so

many times:  IIIIIIIII.  The  factor of Portugal has given me a brown velvet bag and  a box  of good electuary; I

gave his boy 3 stivers for wages. I  gave 1  Horn florin for two little panels, but they gave me  back 6 stivers. I

bought a little monkey for 4 gulden, and  gave 14 stivers for five  fish. I paid Jobst 10 stivers for  three dinners;

I gave 2 stivers for  two tracts; and 2  stivers to the messenger. I gave Lazarus of  Ravensburg a  portrait head on

panel which cost 6 stivers, and besides  that I have given him eight sheets of the large copper  engravings,

eight of the halfsheets, an engraved "Passion,"  and other engravings  and woodcuts, all together worth more

than 4 florins. I changed a  Philip's florin for expenses,  and besides that a gold florin for  expenses. I gave 6

stivers for a panel, and did the portrait of the  servant of  the Portuguese on it in charcoal, and I gave him all

that  for a New Year's present and 2 stivers for a tip. Changed 1  florin  for expenses and gave Bernhard Stecher

a whole set of  prints. I bought  31 stivers' worth of wood. I have made the  portraits of Gerhard  Bombelli and

Sebastian the procurator's  daughter. I have changed 1  florin for expenses. Have spent 3  stivers besides 3 more

for a meal. I  have given Herr Wolff  of Rogendorf a "Passion" on copper and one in  woodcut.  Gerhard

Bombelli has given me a printed Turkish cloth, and  Herr Wolff of Rogendorf gave me seven Brabant ells of

velvet, so I  gave his man 1 Philip's florin for a tip. Spent  3 stivers on a meal;  gave 4 stivers for tips. I have

drawn  the new factor's portrait in  charcoal. Gave 6 stivers for a  panel. Have dined with the Portuguese  IIIIIII

times, with  the treasurer 1, with Tomasin IIIIIIIIII times.  Gave 4  stivers for tips. With Lazarus of Ravensburg

1, Wolff of  Rogendorf 1, Bernhard Stecher 1, Utz Hanolt Meyting 1,  Caspar  Lewenter 1. I gave 3 stivers to

the man whose  portrait I drew; gave  the boy 2 stivers. I have given 4  florins for flax. Have taken 4  florins for

prints; have  changed 1 crown for expenses. Paid the  furrier 4 stivers and  again 2 stivers. Lost 4 stivers at

play; spent 6  stivers. I  have changed 1 noble for expenses; gave 18 stivers for  raisins and three pairs of

knives. I paid 2 florins for some  meals at  Jobst's. Have lost 4 stivers at play, and gave 6  stivers to the  furrier.

Have given Master Jacob two engraved  "St. Jeromes." Lost 2  stivers at play: changed 1 crown for  expenses;

lost 1 stiver at play.  Have given to Tomasin's  three maids three pairs of knives, which cost  5 stivers.  Have

taken 29 stivers for prints. Rodrigo gave me a  muskball  just as it had been cut from the musk deer, also a 1/4

lb.  of persin [a dark red paint?] and a box full of quince  electuary and  a big box of sugar, so I gave his boy 5

stivers for a tip. 


Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries

PART II: DIARY OF A JOURNEY THE NETHERLANDS (July, 1520 July,  1521) 23



Top




Page No 26


Lost 2 stivers at play. I have done the portrait of Jobst's  wife  in charcoal. I have got 4 florins, 5 stivers for

three  small canvases.  Changed 2 florins in succession for  expenses. Lost 2 stivers at play.  My wife gave me 1

florin  for the child, and 4 stivers in the child's  bed. I have  changed 1 crown for expenses; spent 4 stivers, lost

2  stivers at play, and gave 4 stivers to the messenger.  Changed 1  florin for expenses. 

I gave Master Dietrich, the glass painter, an "Apocalypse"  and the  six "Knots." Paid 40 stivers for flax. Lost 8

stivers at play. I have  given the little Portuguese factor,  Signor Francisco, my small canvas  with the small

child, that  is worth 10 florins. I have given Dr.  Loffen at Antwerp the  four books and an engraved "Jerome,"

and the  same to Jobst  Planckfelt. I have done the arms of Staiber and another.  I  have made a portrait of

Tomasin's son and daughter in  silverpoint;  also I have painted a small panel in oil of the  Duke. Have got 3

stivers for engravings. Rodrigo, the  Portuguese secretary, has given  me two Calicut cloths, one  of them is

silk, and he has given me an  ornamented cap and a  green jug with myrobalans, and a branch of cedar  tree,

worth  10 florins altogether. And I gave the boy for a tip 5  stivers and 2 stivers for a brush. 

I have made a drawing for a mask for the Fugger's people for  masquerade, and they have given me an angel. I

have changed  1 florin  for expenses. Gave 8 stivers for two little powder  horns. Lost 3  stivers at play.

Changed an angel for  expenses. I have drawn two  sheets full of beautiful little  masks for Tomasin. I have

painted a  good "Veronica" face in  oils; it is worth 12 florins. I gave it to  Francisco, the  Portuguese factor.

Since then I have painted Santa  Veronica  in oils; it is better than the former, and I gave it to  Factor Brandan

of Portugal. Francisco gave the maid 1  Philip's florin  for a tip, and afterwards, because of the  "Veronica," 1

florin more,  but the Factor Brandan gave her 1  florin. I paid Peter 8 stivers for  two cases. I changed an  angel

for expenses. 

On Carnival Sunday early, the goldsmiths invited me to  dinner,  with my wife. In their assembly were many

notable  men. They prepared a  very grand meal, and did me the  greatest honour. In the evening the  old bailiff

of the town  invited me and gave me a splendid meal, and  did me great  honour. Thither came many strange

maskers. 

I have drawn the portrait of Florent Nepotis, Lady  Margaret's  organist, in charcoal. On Monday night Herr

Lopez  invited me to the  great banquet on Shrove Tuesday, which  lasted till two o'clock, and  was very grand.

Herr Lorenz  Sterk has given me a Spanish fur. And to  the abovementioned  feast came many very splendid

masks, especially  Tomasin  Bombelli. 

I have won 2 florins at play. Have changed an angel for  expenses:  paid 14 stivers for a basket of raisins. I

have  made the portrait in  charcoal of Bernhard von Castell, from  whom I won the money. Tomasin's  brother

Gerhardt has given  me four Brabant ells of the best black  satin, and has given  me three big boxes of candied

citron, so I gave  the maid 3  stivers for a tip. Paid 13 stivers for wood, and 2 stivers  for pine kernels. I drew

the procurator's daughter very  carefully in  silverpoint. 

Have changed 1 angel for expenses. I have drawn the portrait  in  black chalk of the good marble worker,

Master Johann, who  looks like  Christopher Kohler; he has studied in Italy, and  comes from Metz. I  have

changed 1 Horn florin for expenses.  I have given 3 florins to Jan  Turck for Italian works of  art; I gave him 12

ducats' worth of works  of art for one  ounce of good ultramarine. I have sold a small woodcut  of  the "Passion"

for florins. I sold two reams and four books  of  Schauflein's prints for 3 florins. Have given 3 florins  for two

ivory  saltcellars from Calicut. Have taken 2  florins for prints; have  changed 1 florin for expenses.  Rudiger

von Gelern gave me a snail  shell, together with  coins of gold and silver, with an ort. I gave him  in return  the

three large books and an engraved "Knight;" have taken  11 stivers for prints. I gave 2 Philip's florins for "SS.

Peter and  Paul," which I shall present to Herr Kohler's  wife. Rodrigo has given  me two boxes of quince

Electuary and  all kinds of sweetmeats, and I  gave 5 stivers for a tip,  Paid 16 stivers for boxes. 


Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries

PART II: DIARY OF A JOURNEY THE NETHERLANDS (July, 1520 July,  1521) 24



Top




Page No 27


Lazarus of Ravensburg gave me a sugar loaf, so I gave his  boy 1  stiver. Paid 6 stivers for wood. Have eaten

once with  the Frenchman;  twice with the Hirschvogel's Fritz, and once  with Master Peter, the  secretary, when

Erasmus of Rotterdam  also dined with us. I paid 1  stiver to be allowed to go up  the tower at Antwerp, which

is said to  be higher than that  at Strasburg. From thence I saw the whole town on  all sides,  which was very

pleasant. Paid 1 stiver for a bath. Have  changed 1 angel for expenses. The Factor Brandon of Portugal  has

given me two large beautiful white sugar loaves, a  dishful of  sweetmeats, two green pots of preserves, and

four  ells of black satin,  so I gave the servant 10 stivers for a  tip. 

Paid the messenger 3 stivers. I have drawn twice in the more  in  silverpoint the beautiful maiden for Gerhardt.

Again  changed an angel  for expenses; took 4 florins for prints;  paid 10 stivers for Rodrigo's  case. Dined with

the  treasurer, Herr Lorenz Sterk, who gave me an  ivory whistle  and a very beautiful piece of porcelain, and I

have  given  him a whole set of prints. I also gave a whole set to Herr  Adrian, the Antwerp town orator. Also I

changed a Philip's  florin for  expenses. I presented a sitting "St. Nicolas" to  the largest and  richest guild of

merchants at Antwerp, for  which they have made me a  present of 3 Philip's florins. I  gave Peter Egidius the

old frame of  the "St. Jerome" besides  4 gulden for a frame for the treasurer's  likeness. Paid 11  stivers for

wood. Again changed a Philip's florin  for  expenses. Gave 4 stivers for a bore. Gave 3 stivers for  three  canes. I

have handed over my bale to Jacob and Andreas  Hessler to take  to Nuremberg, and I am to pay them 2 florins

per cwt., Nuremberg  weight, and they are to take it to Herr  Hans Imhof, the elder, and I  have paid 2 florins on

it.  Moreover I have done it up in a packing  case.  This was in  the year 1521, on the Saturday before Judicz. 

Also on the Saturday before Judicz, Rodrigo gave me six  large  Indian cocoanuts, a very fine piece of coral,

and two  large Portuguese  florins, one of which weighs 10 ducats, and  I gave the boy 15 stivers  for a tip. I

have bought a lode  stone for 16 stivers. I have changed  an angel for expenses.  Paid 6 stivers for packing.

Sent Master Hugo at  Brussels an  engraved "Passion" and some other prints for his little  porphyry stone. I

have made for Tomasin a design drawn and  tinted in  halfcolours, from which he means to have his  house

painted. I painted  "Jerome" in oils with care and gave  it to Rodrigo of Portugal, who  gave Susanna a ducat for

a  tip. Have changed a Philip's florin for  expenses and gave 10  stivers to my Father Confessor. Gave 4 stivers

for the  little tortoise. I have dined with Herr Gilbert, who gave me  a Calicut target made of a fish skin, and

two gloves as they  use them  for fighting. I have given Peter 2 stivers. Gave 10  stivers for the  fish fins, and 3

stivers for a tip. I have  made a very good portrait  in hard chalk of Cornelius, the  secretary of Antwerp. 

I have given 3 florins, 16 stivers, for the five silk  girdles  which I mean to give away, besides 20 stivers for an

edging [lace?].  These six edgings I have sent as presents to  the wives of Kasperi  Nutzel, Franz Imhof, Straub,

the two  Spenglers, Loffelholz, besides a  good pair of gloves to  each. To Pirkheimer I have sent a large cap, a

very handsome  buffalo horn inkstand, a silver [medal of the] Emperor,  a  pound of pistachios, and three sugar

canes. To Kasper  Ntitzel I  have sent a great elk's foot, ten large fir cones  with pine kernels.  To Jacob Muffel I

have sent a scarlet  breast cloth of one ell; to Hans  Imhof's child an  embroidered scarlet cap and pine kernels;

to Kramer's  wife  four ells of taffeta, worth 4 florins. To Lochinger's wife  one  ell of taffeta, of 1 florin's worth;

to the two  Spenglers, each a bag  and three fine horns; to Herr  Hieronimus Holzschuher, a very large  horn. 

Have eaten twice with the factor; dined with Master Adrian,  the  secretary of the town council of Antwerp,

who gave me  the small  painted panel made by Master Joachim [de Patinir]:  it is of " Lot and  his Daughters."

Have taken 12 florins for  prints, also I have sold  some of Hans Baldung Grun's works  for 1 florin. Rudiger

von Gelern has  given me a piece of  sandalwood; I gave his boy a stiver. I have  painted the  portrait of

Bernhard of Brussels in oils; he gave me 8  florins for it, and gave my wife a crown, and Susanna a  florin

worth  24 stivers. I have given 3 stivers for the  Swiss jug, and 2 stivers  for the ship, also 3 stivers for  the case

and 4 stivers to the Father  Confessor. I have  changed an angel for expenses; have taken 4 florins,  10  stivers

for works of art: paid 3 stivers for salve; gave 12  1/2  stivers for wood; changed 1 florin for expenses; have

given 1 florin  for 14 pieces of French wood. I gave Ambrozio  Hochstutter a " Life of  Our Lady," and he gave

me a model of  his ship. Rodrigo gave my wife a  little ring which is worth  more than 5 florins. Have changed

1 florin  for expenses. 


Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries

PART II: DIARY OF A JOURNEY THE NETHERLANDS (July, 1520 July,  1521) 25



Top




Page No 28


I have done the portrait of Factor Brandon's secretary in  charcoal; I have done the portrait of his Moorish

woman in  silverpoint, and I have done Rodrigo's portrait on a large  sheet of  paper with the brush, in black

and white. I have  given 16 florins for  a piece of camlet measuring twentyfour  ells, and it cost 1 stiver to

bring home. Have paid 2  stivers for gloves. I have done Lucas of  Dantzic's portrait  in charcoal. He gave me 1

florin for it, and a  piece of  sandalwood. 

VISIT TO BRUGES AND GHENT (April 611, 1521) 

On the Saturday after Easter, with Hans Luber and Master Jan  Prevost, a good painter born at Bruges, I set

out from  Antwerp  towards Bruges by way of the Scheldt and came to  Beveren, a large  village. From there to

Vracene, also a big  village; thence we passed  through some villages and came to  a fine large village, where

the rich  farmers live, and there  we breakfasted. Thence we journeyed towards  St. Paul's, the  rich abbey, and

went through Caudenborn, a fine  village;  thence through the large village of Kalve, and thence to  Ertvelde;

there we lay the night and started early on Sunday  morning  and came from Ertvelde to a small town. From

that we  went to Ecloo,  which is a mighty large village; it is  plastered, and has a square;  there we breakfasted.

Thence we  went to Maldegem, and then through  other villages, and came  to Brugeswhich is a fine noble

town. I paid  21 stivers for  fare and other expenses. And arriving at Bruges, Jan  Prevost  took me into his

house to lodge, and the same night prepared  a costly meal, and asked much company to meet me. 

The next day Marx, the goldsmith, invited me, and gave me a  costly  meal and asked many to meet me;

afterwards they took  me to see the  Emperor's house, which is large and splendid.  There I saw the chapel

which Roger painted, and some  pictures by a great old artist. I gave  the man who showed  them to us 1 stiver;

afterwards I bought two ivory  combs for  30 stivers. Thence they took me to St. James's and let me  see the

splendid paintings of Roger and Hugo, who are both  great  masters. Afterwards I saw the alabaster Madonna

in Our  Lady's Church  that Michelangelo of Rome made; afterwards  they took me to many  churches and let

me see all the fine  paintings, of which there is  abundance there, and when I had  seen the Jan [Van Eyck] and

all the  other things, we came at  last to the Painters' Chapel, in which there  are good  things. Then they

prepared a banquet for me, and I went  thence with them to their guildhall; there were many  honourable men

gathered together, goldsmiths, painters, and  merchants, and they made  me sup with them, and they gave me

presents and sought my acquaintance  and did me great honour;  and the two brothers Jacob and Peter

Mostaert, the town  councilors, gave me twelve cans of wine, and the  whole  assembly, more than sixty

persons, accompanied me home with  many torches. I also saw in their shooting gallery the great  fish tub  from

which they eat, which is 19 feet long, 7 high,  and 7 broad. 

Early on Tuesday we departed, but before that, I did Jan  Prevost's  portrait in silverpoint, and gave his wife 10

stivers at parting. And  so we traveled to Ursel; there we  breakfasted. On the way there are  three villages.

Then we  traveled towards Ghent, again through three  villages, and I  paid 4 stivers for the journey, and 4

stivers for  expenses;  and on my arrival at Ghent, there came to me the dean of the  painters and brought with

him the first masters in painting;  they  showed me great honour, received me most courteously,  and

commended to  me their goodwill and service, and supped  with me. On Wednesday early  they took me to the

tower of St.  John's, whence I looked all over the  great and wonderful  town, where I had just been treated as a

great  person.  Afterwards I saw the Jan [Van Eyck's] picture, which is a  very splendid, deeply studied

painting, and especially the  "Eve," the  "Mary," and "God the Father" were extremely good. 

Then I saw the lions and drew one of them in silverpoint;  also I  saw on the bridge, where men are beheaded,

two  pictures which were  made as a sign that there a son had  beheaded his father. Ghent is  beautiful and a

wonderful  town; four great waters flow through it. I  gave 3 stivers as  a tip to the sacristan and the lions'

keeper. I saw  many  other remarkable things in Ghent, and the painters with  their  dean did not forget me, but

ate with me morning and  evening, and paid  for everything, and were very friendly. I  gave away 3 stivers at

the  inn on leaving. Then early on  Thursday I set out from Ghent and came  through various  villages to the inn

called "The Swan," where we  breakfasted;  thence we passed through a beautiful village and came to


Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries

PART II: DIARY OF A JOURNEY THE NETHERLANDS (July, 1520 July,  1521) 26



Top




Page No 29


Antwerp, and I paid 8 stivers for the fare. 

AT ANTWERP (April 11May 17, 1521) 

I have taken 4 florins for works of art; changed one florin  for  expenses. Have taken the portrait of Hans

Lieber of Ulm  in charcoal;  he wished to pay me 1 florin, but I would not  take it. Gave 7 stivers  for wood and

1 stiver for bringing  it; changed 1 florin for expenses.  In the third week after  Easter a violent fever came upon

me with great  weakness,  nausea, and headache; and before, when I was in Zeeland, a  strange illness

overcame me such as I never heard of from  anyone, and  this illness I have still. I paid 6 stivers for  a case. The

monk has  bound two books for me for the prints  which I gave him. I have given  10 florins, 8 stivers for a

piece of arras for two mantles for my  motherinlaw and my  wife. I gave the doctor 8 stivers, and 3 stivers  to

the  apothecary, also changed 1 florin for expenses and spent 3  stivers in company. Paid the doctor 10 stivers;

again paid  the doctor  6 stivers. 

During my illness Rodrigo sent me many sweetmeats; I gave  the boy  4 stivers for a tip. I have drawn Master

Joachim  [Patinir] in  silverpoint, and made him besides another  likeness in silverpoint.  Again changed a

crown for expenses,  and again 1 florin for expenses.  Paid the doctor 6 stivers,  and 7 stivers at the

apothecary's; changed  1 florin for  expenses. For packing the third bale, which I sent from  Antwerp to

Nuremberg by a carrier called Hans Staber, I paid  13  stivers, and I paid the carrier 1 florin for it, and I  agreed

with him  to take it from Antwerp to Nuremberg for 1  florin, I ort, per cwt.,  and this bale is to be taken to  Herr

Hans Imhof, the elder. I have  paid the doctor, the  apothecary, and the barber 14 stivers. I gave  Master Jacob,

the surgeon, 4 florins' worth of prints. I have made a  portrait in charcoal of Thomas Polonius of Rome. 

My camlet cloak came to twentyone Brabant ells, which are  three  fingerbreadths longer than the

Nuremberg ells. I have  also bought  four black  Spanish skins, which cost 3 stivers  each, and they come to  34,

that makes 10 florins, 2 stivers;  I paid the skinner [furrier] 1  florin to make them up, then  there were two ells

of velvet for  trimming, 5 florins; also  for silk cord and thread, 34 stivers; then  the tailor's  wage, 30 stivers; the

camlet which is in the cloak cost  14  1/2 florins, and the boy 5 stivers for a tip. 

Cross Sunday after Easter; from this I start a fresh  account.  Again paid the doctor 6 stivers; I have gained 53

stivers for works of  art, and have taken them for expenses.  On Sunday before Holy Cross  Week, Master

Joachim [Patinir],  the good landscape painter, asked me  to his wedding, and  showed me all honour; there I

saw two beautiful  plays, the  first was especially pious and devout. I again paid the  doctor 6 stivers, and have

changed 1 florin for expenses. 

On Sunday after Our Lord's Ascension, Master Dietrich, the  glass  painter of Antwerp, invited me and asked

many other  people to meet me,  and especially among them Alexander, the  goldsmith, a rich, stately  man, and

we had a splendid  dinner, and they did me great honour. I  have done in  charcoal the portrait of Master Marx,

the goldsmith, who  lives at Bruges. I bought a broad cap for 36 stivers. I paid  Paul  Geiger 1 florin to take my

little chest to Nuremberg,  and 4 stivers  for the letter. I have taken the portrait of  Ambrosius Hochstatter in

charcoal, and I dined with him: I  have dined at least six times with  Tomasin. I bought some  wooden dishes

and platters for 3 stivers. I  have given the  apothecary 12 stivers. I have given two books of the  "Life  of Our

Lady," one to the foreign surgeon, the other to  Marx's  house servant; I also paid the doctor 8 stivers, and  gave

4 stivers  for cleaning an old cap. Lost 4 stivers at  play; have given 2 florins  for a new cap. I have changed the

old cap because it was clumsy, and  have given 6 stivers more  for another. 

Painted a portrait of the duke in oils: have made a very  fine and  careful portrait in oils of the treasurer, Lorenz

Sterk; it was worth  25 florins. I presented it to him, and  in return he gave me 20  florins, and to Susanna 1

florin for  a tip. Likewise I painted the  portrait of Jobst, my host,  very well and carefully in oils; he has  now

given me [the  portrait I did of him before?] and I have done his  wife  again and painted her portrait in oils. 


Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries

PART II: DIARY OF A JOURNEY THE NETHERLANDS (July, 1520 July,  1521) 27



Top




Page No 30


On the Friday before Whitsuntide, 1521, tidings came to me  at  Antwerp that Martin Luther had been so

treacherously  taken prisoner,  for he trusted the Emperor Charles's herald,  who had been granted to  him with

the Imperial safe conduct,  but as soon as the herald had  brought him near Eisenach, to  an unfriendly place, he

said that he  would not need him any  more and rode away. Immediately there appeared  ten knights,  who

treacherously carried off the pious man, who had been  betrayed; a man enlightened by the Holy Ghost, a

follower of  Christ  and of the true Christian faith, and whether he lives  yet or whether  they have put him to

death, I know not. If he  has suffered, it is for  the sake of Christian truth and  because he has fought with the

unChristlike papacy, which  strives with its heavy load of human laws  against the  redemption of Christ; and

if so, it is that we may be  again  robbed and stripped of the fruit of our blood and sweat,  that  the same may be

shamelessly and scandalously squandered  while poor and  sick men must therefore die of hunger. And  this is

above all most  grievous to me, that God perhaps will  let us remain yet under their  false, blind doctrine,

invented and set forth by the men whom they  call "Fathers,"  through whom the Word of God is in many

places falsely  expounded or not taught at all. 

[Editor's note: This form of abduction was the usual idea at  the  time.  But Luther was really taken by the order

of  Frederick the Wise  in order to protect him]. 

O God of Heaven, have pity on us, O Lord Jesus Christ, pray  for  Thy people. Deliver us in due time, uphold

in us the  right and true  Christian Faith. Gather together Thy far  scattered sheep by Thy voice,  in the Scripture

called Thy  godly Word. Help us that we may know this  Thy voice and may  follow no other deceiving call of

human error, that  we may  not, Lord Jesus Christ, fall away from Thee. Call together  again the sheep of Thy

pasture, who are still in part found  in the  Roman Church, and with them, too, the Indians,  Muscovites,

Russians,  and Greeks, who have been thus cut off  by the oppression and pride of  the pope and by false

appearance of holiness. 

O God, redeem thy poor folk constrained by heavy ban and  edict  which it no wise willingly obeys, whereby it

is bound  continually to  sin against its conscience if it disobeys  them. O God, never hast Thou  so heavily

burdened a people  under human laws as us poor ones beneath  the Roman chair,  who daily long to be free

Christians ransomed by Thy  blood. 

O Highest Heavenly Father, pour into our hearts through Thy  Son  Jesus Christ such a light, that we may

know thereby  which messenger we  are to obey, so that with good conscience  we may lay aside the burdens  of

others, and may serve Thee,  Eternal Heavenly Father, with free and  joyful heart. 

And if we lose this man, who has written more clearly than  anyone  in a hundred and forty years, and to whom

Thou hast  given such an  evangelic spirit, we pray Thee, O Heavenly  Father, that Thou give  again Thy spirit

to another, that he  may gather together anew from all  parts the holy Christian  Church, that we may all live

again in a pure  and Christian  manner, so that from our good works all unbelievers,  with  Turks, heathens, and

Calicuts, may turn themselves to us and  embrace the Christian faith. 

But, Lord, Thou willest, ere Thou judgest, that as Thy Son  Jesus  Christ was constrained to die by the hands of

the  priests and rise  from the dead and after to ascend to  heaven, that so too, in like  manner, it should be with

Thy  follower, Martin Luther, whose life the  pope compasses, with  money, treacherously towards God, him,

Thou wilt  quicken  again. And as Thou, Lord, ordainedst that Jerusalem should  be  destroyed, so wilt Thou

also destroy this selfassumed  authority of  the Roman chair. O lord, give us thereafter the  new beautified

Jerusalem, which descends from heaven,  whereof the Apocalypse writes,  the holy pure gospel which is  not

darkened by human doctrine. 

Whoever reads Martin Luther's books may see how clear and  transparent his doctrine is, for he teaches the

Holy Gospel.  Wherefore his writings are to be held in the greatest  honour, and not  to be burned; unless,

indeed, his opponents,  who always fight against  the truth, were also cast into the  fire with all their opinions,


Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries

PART II: DIARY OF A JOURNEY THE NETHERLANDS (July, 1520 July,  1521) 28



Top




Page No 31


they  who would make gods out  of men, but then only if there were printed  new Lutheran  books. 

"O God, if Luther be dead, who will henceforth expound the  Holy  Gospel so clearly to us! Ah, God, what

might he not  have written for  us in the next ten or twenty years! "Oh,  all ye pious Christian men,  help me to

lament this God  inspired man and pray to Him that He will  send us another  enlightened man. 

Oh, Erasmus of Rotterdam, where wilt thou stay? Dost thou  see how  the unjust tyranny of worldly power and

the might of  darkness prevail?  Hear, thou knight of Christ, ride on  beside the Lord Jesus; guard the  truth, win

the martyr's  crown! Thou art already only a little old man,  and I have  heard thee say that thou givest thyself

but two years more  in which thou mayest avail to accomplish something. Lay out  the same  now well for the

gospel and the true Christian  Faith and make thyself  heard, so shall the gates of hell,  the Roman Chair, as

Christ says, in  no wise prevail against  thee: and if here, like thy Master Christ,  thou were to  suffer shame at

the hands of the liars of this time and  therefore were to die a little sooner, the sooner wouldst  thou come  from

death into life and be glorified through  Christ. For if thou  drinkest out of the cup whereof He  drank, with Him

thou shalt reign,  and judge with justice  those who have dealt unrighteously. 

Oh, Erasmus, hold to this, that God may be thy praise, even  as it  is written of David, for verily thou mayest

overthrow  Goliath. For God  stands by the Holy Christian Church, as He  only upholds the Romish  Church

according to His Godly will  [text here corrupt]. May He help us  to everlasting  happiness, Who is God the

Father, the Son, and the Holy  Ghost, one God, Amen. 

Oh, ye Christian men, pray God for help, for His judgment  draws  near and His justice shall appear. Then

shall we  behold the innocent  blood which the pope, priests, bishops,  and monks have shed, judged  and

condemned. 

Apocalypse: "These are the slain who lie beneath the altar  of God  and cry for vengeance, to whom the voice

of God  answers, Await the  full number of the innocent slain, then  will I judge." 

Again changed 1 florin for expenses, and gave the doctor 8  stivers; dined twice with Rodrigo; dined with the

rich  canon; changed  1 florin for expenses. I had Master Conrad,  the sculptor of Mechlin,  as a guest on

Whitsunday; paid 18  stivers for Italian prints: again 6  stivers to the doctor.  For Master Joachim I have drawn

four "St.  Christophers" on  gray paper, heightened with white. 

On the last day of Whitsuntide I was at Antwerp at the great  yearly horsefair; there I saw a great number of

beautiful  stallions  ridden, and two stallions in particular were sold  for 700 florins. I  have taken 1 florin, 3 ort,

for prints  and used the money for  expenses; 4 stivers to the doctor, 3  stivers for two little books. I  have dined

thrice with  Tomasin. I have designed three dagger grips for  him, and he  gave me a small alabaster bowl. I

have taken the portrait  in  charcoal of an English nobleman, who gave me 1 florin which  I  changed for

expenses. Master Gerhardt, the miniature  painter, has a  daughter about eighteen years old, called  Susanna,

who has illuminated  a little page with a Saviour,  for which I gave her 1 florin. It is  very wonderful that a

woman's picture should be so good. Have lost 6  stivers at  play. I saw the great procession at Antwerp on Holy

Trinity  Day. Master Conrad has given me a beautiful pair of knives,  and so I  gave his little old man a "Life of

Our Lady" in  return. I have taken  the portrait in charcoal of Johann, the  Brussels goldsmith, likewise  his

wife's. I have received 2  florins for prints, also Master Johann,  the Brussels  goldsmith, paid me 3 Philip's

florins for what I did for  him, namely, the drawing for the seal and the two portraits. 

I have given the "Veronica" which I painted in oils, and the  "Adam  and Eve" that Franz did to Johann, the

goldsmith, in  return for a  jacinth and an agate with a Lucrecia engraved  in it. Each of us valued  his portion at

14 florins. Further,  I gave him a whole set of  engravings for a ring and six  stones; each valued his portion at 7

florins. Gave 14  stivers for two pairs of gloves; gave 2 stivers for  two  small boxes; changed 2 Philip's florins

for expenses. I drew  three "Bearing of the Cross" and two "Mount of Olives" on  five  halfsheets. I have


Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries

PART II: DIARY OF A JOURNEY THE NETHERLANDS (July, 1520 July,  1521) 29



Top




Page No 32


taken three portraits in black and  white on gray  paper; also I drew in black and white on gray  paper, two

Netherlandish  costumes. For the Englishman I have  painted his arms in colours, for  which he gave me 1

florin.  Besides this, one way and another, I have  done many drawings  and other things to serve people, and

for the  greater part  of my work I have received nothing. Andreas of Cracow  paid  me 1 Philip's florin for a

shield and a child's head.  Changed 1  florin for expenses. Have given 2 stivers for  sweeping brushes. At

Antwerp I saw the great procession on  Corpus Christi Day, which was  very splendid. Gave in the 4  stivers for

a tip and 6 stivers to the  doctor; changed 1  florin for expenses; 1 stiver for a box. Have dined  five  times with

Tomasin; paid 10 stivers to the apothecary and to  his  wife 14 stivers for the clyster, and 15 stivers to him  for

the  prescription. Again changed 2 Philip's florins for  expenses; 6 stivers  again to the doctor, and once more

10  stivers for a clyster to the  apothecary's wife, and 4  stivers to the apothecary. I gave the monk  who

confessed my  wife 8 stivers. I have given 8 florins for a whole  piece of  arras, and again for fourteen ells of

fine arras, 8 florins:  the apothecary 32 stivers for medicines; to the messenger I  have  given 3 stivers and the

tailor 4 stivers. I have dined  once with Hans  Fehler, and thrice with Tomasin. Gave 10  stivers for packing. 

On the Wednesday after Corpus Christi in the year 1521, I  gave  over my great bale at Antwerp to be sent to

Nuremberg,  to the carrier,  by name Kunz Metz of Schlaudersdorf, and I  am to pay him for carrying  it to

Nuremberg 1 1/2 florins for  every cwt., and I paid him 1 gulden  on account, and he is to  hand it over to Herr

Hans Imhof, the elder. I  have done the  portrait of young Jacob Rehlinger at Antwerp; have dined  three times

with Tomasin. 

On the eighth day after Corpus Christi I went with my wife  to  Mechlin to Lady Margaret; took 5 florins with

me for  expenses; my wife  changed 1 florin for expenses. At Mechlin  I lodged with Master  Heinrich, the

painter, at the sign of  the Golden Head. The painters  and sculptors made me their  guest at my inn, and did me

great honour  in their gathering;  and I visited the Poppenreuter's, the gunmaker's  house, and  found wonderful

things there. And I have been to Lady  Margaret's, and I let her see my Kaiser, and would have  presented it  to

her, but she disliked it so much that I took  it away again. And on  Friday Lady Margaret showed me all her

beautiful things, and among  them I saw about forty small  pictures in oils, the like of which for  cleanness and

excellence I have never seen. And there I saw other good  works by Jan [Van Eyck] and Jacopo [de' Barbari].

I asked my  lady for  Jacopo's little book, but she said she had promised  it to her painter;  then I saw many other

costly things and a  fine library. Master Hans  Poppenreuter invited me as his  guest. I have had Master Conrad

twice,  and his wife once, as  my guests, also the chamberlain Stephen and his  wife, both  as guests. 27 stivers

and 2 stivers for fare. I have taken  in charcoal the portrait of Stephen, the chamberlain, and  Master  Conrad,

the carver, and on Saturday I came back from  Mechlin to  Antwerp. My trunk started on the Saturday after

Corpus Christi week.  Changed 1 florin for expenses, gave the  messenger 3 stivers. Dined  twice with the

Augustines; dined  with Alexander Imhof; paid 6 stivers  at the apothecary's;  dined again with the Augustines. 

I have drawn in charcoal Master Jacob, and had a little  panel made  for it, which cost 6 stivers, and gave it to

him.  I have done the  portrait of Bernhard Stecher and his wife,  and gave him a whole set of  prints, and I took

his wife's  portrait again, and gave 6 stivers for  making the little  panel, all of which I gave him, and he in

return  gave me 10  florins. 

Master Lucas, who engraves in copper, invited me as his  guest. He  is a little man, born at Leyden, in Holland,

and  was at Antwerp. I  have eaten with Master Bernhard Stecher.  Gave 1 1/2 stivers to the  messenger; have

taken 1 florin, 1  ort, for prints. I have drawn Master  Lucas von Leyden in  silverpoint. I have lost 1 florin; paid

the doctor  6 stivers  and again 6 stivers. I gave the steward of the Augustines'  Convent at Antwerp a "Life of

Our Lady," and 4 stivers to  his man, I  have given Master Jacob a copper "Passion" and a  wood "Passion," and

five other pieces, and 4 stivers to his  man; have changed 4 florins  for expenses; gave 2 Philip's  florins for

fourteen fish skins; made  portraits in black  chalk of Art Braun and his wife. I gave the  goldsmith who  valued

the ring for me 1 florin's worth of prints; of  the  three rings which I took in exchange for prints, the two

smaller  are valued at 13 crowns, but the sapphire at 25  crowns; that makes 54  florins, 8 stivers; and what,

amongst  other things, the above  Frenchman took was thirtysix large  books, which makes 9 florins. Have


Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries

PART II: DIARY OF A JOURNEY THE NETHERLANDS (July, 1520 July,  1521) 30



Top




Page No 33


given 2 stivers for a  screw knife. The man with the three rings has  overreached me  by a half. I understood

nothing in the matter. I gave  18  stivers for a red cap for my godchild; lost 12 stivers at  play;  drank 2 stivers,

bought three fine small rubies for 11  gold florins, 1  2 stivers; changed 1 florin for expenses.  Dined again with

the  Augustines; dined twice with Tomasin. I  gave 6 stivers for thirteen  porpoisebristle brushes, and 3  stivers

for six bristle brushes. 

I have made a careful portrait in black chalk on a royal  sheet of  the great Anthony Hainault, and I have done

careful  portraits in black  chalk of Braun and his wife on royal  sheets, and I have done another  one of him in

silverpoint;  he has given me an angel. Changed 1 florin  for expenses,  paid 1 florin for a pair of shoes; gave 6

stivers for an  inkstand. I gave 12 stivers for a case for packing; 21  stivers for  one dozen ladies' gloves; 6

stivers for a bag; 3  stivers for three  bristle brushes; changed 1 florin for  expenses; gave 1 stiver for a  piece of

fine red leather.  Anthony Hainault, whose portrait I did, has  given me 3  Philip's florins, and Bernhard Stecher

has made me a  present  of a tortoise shell; I have done the portrait of his wife's  niece; dined once with her

husband and he gave me 2 Philip's  florins;  gave 1 stiver for a tip. I have given Anthony  Hainault two books;

received 13 stivers for prints. I have  given Master Joachim the Hans  Grun woodcut. I have changed 3  Philip's

florins for expenses; dined  twice with Bernhard  Stecher; again twice with Tomasin. I have given  Jobst's wife

four woodcuts; gave Friedrich, Jobst's man, two large  books;  gave glazier Hennick's son two books. Rodrigo

gave me one of  the parrots which they bring from Malacca, and I gave his  man 3  stivers for a tip. Again dined

twice with Tomasin;  have given 2  stivers for a little cage, 3 stivers for one  pair of socks, and 4  stivers for

eight little boards. I gave  Peter two whole sheet  engravings and one sheet of woodcut.  Again dined twice with

Tomasin;  changed 1 florin for  expenses. I gave Master Art, the glass painter, a  "Life of  Our Lady," and I gave

Master Jean, the French sculptor, a  whole set of prints; he gave my wife six little glasses with  rose  water;

they are very finely made. 

Bought a packingcase for 7 stivers; changed 1 florin for  expenses; have given 7 stivers for a cut [leather]

bag.  Cornelius,  the secretary, has given me Luther's "Babylonian  Captivity:" in return  I gave him my three

big books. I gave  Peter Puz, the monk, one  florin's worth of prints; to the  glass painter, Hennick, I gave two

large books; gave 4  stivers for a piece of glazed calico; changed 1  Philip's  florin for expenses. I gave 8

florins' worth of my prints  for a whole set of Lucas's engravings; again changed 1  Philip's  florin for expenses.

I gave 8 stivers for a bag and  7 stivers for half  a dozen Netherlandish cards, and 3  stivers for a small yellow

posthorn. I paid 24 stivers for  meat, 12 stivers for coarse cloth,  and again 3 stivers for  coarse cloth. Have

eaten twice with Tomasin. I  gave 1 stiver  to Peter; gave 7 stivers for a present and 3 stivers for  sacking.

Rodrigo has presented me with six ells of coarse  black cloth  for a cape; it cost a crown an ell. Changed 2

florins for expenses;  gave the tailor's man 2 stivers for a  tip. I have reckoned up with  Jobst and I owe him 31

florins,  which I paid him. Therein were charged  and deducted two  portrait heads which I painted in oils, for

which he  gave me  five pounds of borax, Netherlandish weight. 

In all my doings, spendings, sales, and other dealings in  the  Netherlands, in all my affairs with high and low,

I have  suffered  loss, and Lady Margaret in particular gave me  nothing for what I gave  her and did for her.

This settlement  with Jobst was made on SS. Peter  and Paul's Day. I gave  Rodrigo's man 7 stivers for a tip. I

have given  Master  Hennick an engraved "Passion;" he gave me some burning  pastilles. I had to pay the tailor

25 stivers for making up  the cape.  I have engaged a carrier to take me from Antwerp  to Cologne. I am to  pay

him 13 light florins, each of 24  stivers, and am to pay besides  the expenses for a man and a  boy. Jacob

Rehlinger has given me 1 ducat  for his charcoal  portrait. Gerhard has given me two little pots with  capers  and

olives, for which I gave 4 stivers as a tip. Gave  Rodrigo's man 1 stiver. I have given my portrait of the

Emperor in  exchange for a white English cloth which Jacob,  Tomasin's soninlaw,  gave me. 

Alexander Imhof has lent me a full hundred gold florins, on  the  Eve of Our Lady's Crossing the Mountains,

1521. For this  I have given  him my sealed signature, which he will have  presented to me at  Nuremberg, when

I will pay him back with  thanks, gave 6 stivers for a  pair of shoes; paid the  apothecary 11 stivers, paid 3

stivers for  cord. In Tomasin's  kitchen I gave away a Philip's florin in leaving  gifts, and  I gave his maiden


Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries

PART II: DIARY OF A JOURNEY THE NETHERLANDS (July, 1520 July,  1521) 31



Top




Page No 34


daughter a gold florin on leaving. I have  dined thrice with him. I gave Jobst's wife a florin and 1  florin in  the

kitchen for leaving gifts, also I gave 2  stivers to the packers.  Tomasin has given me a small jar  full of the best

theriac [an antidote  for poison]. Changed 3  florins for expenses; gave the house servant 10  stivers on  leaving;

gave Peter 1 stiver; gave 2 stivers for a tip. I  gave 3 stivers to Master Jacob's man; 4 stivers for sacking;  gave

Peter 1 stiver; gave the messenger 3 stivers. 

On Our Lady's Visitation, when I was just leaving Antwerp,  the  King of Denmark sent for me to come to him

at once, to  do his  portrait; this I did in charcoal, and I did the  portrait, too, of his  servant Anthony, and I had

to dine  with the King, who showed himself  very gracious to me. 

I have entrusted my bale to Leonhard Tucher and given over  to him  my white cloth. The carrier with whom I

bargained,  did not take me; I  fell out with him. Gerhard has given me  some Italian seeds. I gave the  new

carrier to take home the  great turtle shell, the fish shield, the  long pipe, the long  shield, the fish fins, and the

two little casks of  lemons  and capers, on Our Lady's Visitation Day, 1521. 

Next day we set out for Brussels on the King of Denmark's  business, and I engaged a driver, to whom I gave

2 florins.  I  presented to the King of Denmark the best pieces of all my  prints,  they are worth 5 florins.

Changed 2 florins for  expenses; paid 1  stiver for a dish and basket. I saw, too,  how the people of Antwerp

wondered very much when they saw  the King of Denmark, that he was such  a manly, handsome man,  and

that he had come hither with only two  companions through  his enemies' country. I saw, too, how the Emperor

rode forth  from Brussels to meet him and received him honourably and  with great pomp. Then I saw the

noble costly banquet that  the Emperor  and Lady Margaret held next day. 

Paid 2 stivers for a pair of gloves. Herr Anthony paid me 12  Horn  florins, of which I gave 2 Horn florins to

the painter  for the little  panel to paint the portrait on, and 2 Horn  florins for having colours  rubbed for me; the

other 8 Horn  florins I took for expenses. 

On the Sunday before St. Margaret's Day, the King of Denmark  gave  a great banquet to the Emperor, Lady

Margaret, and the  Queen of Spain  [Editor's note: probably Eleanora of  Portugal, not the Spanish Queen],  and

invited me, and I  dined there also. Paid 12 stivers for the King's  frame, and  I painted the King in oilshe has

given me 30 florins.  [Editor's note: this painting no longer exists]. 

I gave 2 stivers to the young man called Bartholomew, who  rubbed  the colours for me; I bought a little glass

jar which  once belonged to  the King for 2 stivers. Paid 2 stivers for  a tip; gave 2 stivers for  the engraved

goblets. I have given  Master Jan's boy four halfsheets,  and to the master  painter's boy an "Apocalypse" and

four halfsheets.  Thomas  of Bologna has given me one or two Italian prints; I have  also  bought one for 1

stiver. Master Jobst, the tailor,  invited me and I  supped with him. I have paid for the hire  of a room at

Brussels for  eight days, 32 stivers. I have  given an engraved "Passion" to the wife  of Master Jan, the

goldsmith, with whom I dined three times. I gave  another  "Life of Our Lady" to Bartholomew, the painter's

apprentice;  I have dined with Herr Nicolas Ziegler, and gave 1 stiver to  Master  Jan's servant.  Because of

being unable to get a  carriage, I have  stayed on two days in Brussels; paid 1  stiver for a pair of socks. 

On Friday morning early I started from Brussels, and I am to  pay  the driver 10 florins. I paid my hostess 5

stivers more  for the single  night. From there we rode through two  villages and came to Louvain;  breakfasted,

and spent 13  stivers. Thence we journeyed through three  villages and came  to Thienen, which is a little town,

and lay the  night there,  and I spent 9 stivers. From there, early on St.  Margaret's  Day, we traveled through

two villages and came to a town  which called St. Truyen, where they are building a large,  welldesigned

church tower, quite new. From thence we went  on past  some poor houses and came to a little town,

Tongeren; there we had our  morning meal, and spent all  together, 6 stivers. From thence we went  through a

village  and some poor houses and came to Maestricht, where I  lay the  night, and spent 12 stivers, and 2

blanke besides, for watch  money. Thence we journeyed early on Sunday to Aachen, where  we ate  and spent


Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries

PART II: DIARY OF A JOURNEY THE NETHERLANDS (July, 1520 July,  1521) 32



Top




Page No 35


all together 14 stivers. Thence we traveled  to Altenburg,  taking six hours, because the driver did not  know the

way and went  wrong; there we stayed for the night  and spent 6 stivers. On Monday  early we traveled through

Julich, a town, and came to Bergheim, where  we ate and  drank, and spent 3 stivers. Thence we journeyed

through  three more villages and came to Cologne. 

************* 


Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries

PART II: DIARY OF A JOURNEY THE NETHERLANDS (July, 1520 July,  1521) 33



Top





Bookmarks



1. Table of Contents, page = 3

2. Memoirs of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries, page = 4

   3. Albrecht Durer, page = 4

   4. BASIC BACKGROUND, page = 4

   5. BRIEF EXCERPT FROM THE INTRODUCTION TO THE 1913 EDITION,  WRITTEN BY ROGER FRY (1866-1934):, page = 4

   6. CAST OF [SOME OF THE] CHARACTERS:, page = 5

   7. PART 1: LETTERS FROM VENICE TO WILIBALD PIRKHEIMER, page = 6

   8. PART II: DIARY OF A JOURNEY THE NETHERLANDS (July, 1520- July,  1521), page = 15