Title: The Nile Tributaries of Abyssinia and the Sword Hunters of the Hamran Arabs

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The Nile Tributaries of Abyssinia and the Sword Hunters of the Hamran Arabs.......................................1

Samuel W. Baker.....................................................................................................................................1

PREFACE. THE work entitled "The Albert N'yanza Great Basin of the Nile," published in 1866, has given an

account of the equatorial lake system from which the Egyptian river derives its source. It has been determined

by the joint explorations of Speke, Grant, and myself, that the rainfall of the equatorial districts supplies two

vast lakes, the Victoria and the Albert, of sufficient volume to support the Nile throughout its entire course of

thirty degrees of latitude. Thus the parent stream, fed by neverfailing reservoirs, supplied by the ten months'

rainfall of the equator, rolls steadily on its way through arid sands and burning deserts until it reaches the

It would at first sight appear that the discovery of the lake sources of the Nile had completely solved the

mystery of ages, and that the fertility of Egypt depended upon the rainfall of the equator concentrated in the

lakes Victoria and Albert; but the exploration of the Nile tributaries of Abyssinia divides the Nile system into

two proportions, and unravels the entire mystery of the river, by assigning to each its due share in ministering

The lake sources of Central Africa support the life of Egypt, by supplying a stream, throughout all seasons,

that has sufficient volume to support the exhaustion of evaporation and absorption; but this stream, if

unaided, could never overflow its banks, and Egypt, thus deprived of the annual inundation, would simply

The inundation, which by its annual deposit of mud has actually created the Delta of Lower Egypt, upon the

overflow of which the fertility of Egypt depends, has an origin entirely separate from the lakesources of

The two grand affluents of Abyssinia are, the Blue Nile and the Atbara, which join the main stream

respectively in N. lat. 15 degrees 30 minutes and 17 degrees 37 minutes. These rivers, although streams of

extreme grandeur during the period of the Abyssinian rains, from the middle of June until September, are

reduced during the dry months to utter insignificance; the Blue Nile becoming so shallow as to be

unnavigable, and the Atbara perfectly dry. At that time the water supply of Abyssinia having ceased, Egypt

depends solely upon the equatorial lakes and the affluents of the White Nile, until the rainy season shall again

have flooded the two great Abyssinian arteries. That flood occurs suddenly about the 20th of June, and the

grand rush of water pouring down the Blue Nile and the Atbara into the parent channel, inundates Lower

Not only is the inundation the effect of the Abyssinian rains, but the deposit of mud that has formed the

Delta, and which is annually precipitated by the rising waters, is also due to the Abyssinian streams, more

especially to the river Atbara, which, known as the Bahr el Aswat (Black River), carries a larger proportion of

soil than any other tributary of the Nile; therefore, to the Atbara, above all other rivers, must the wealth and

It may thus be stated: The equatorial lakes FEED Egypt; but the Abyssinian rivers CAUSE THE

This being a concise summary of the Nile system, I shall describe twelve months' exploration, during which I

examined every individual river that is tributary to the Nile from Abyssinia, including the Atbara, Settite,

Royan, Salaam, Angrab, Rahad, Dinder, and the Blue Nile. The interest attached to these portions of Africa

differs entirely from that of the White Nile regions, as the whole of Upper Egypt and Abyssinia is capable of

development, and is inhabited by races either Mohammedan or Christian; while Central Africa is peopled by

The exploration of the Nile tributaries of Abyssinia occupied the first twelve months of my journey towards

the Nile sources. During this time, I had the opportunity of learning Arabic and of studying the character of

the people; both necessary acquirements, which led to my ultimate success in reaching the "Albert N'yanza."

As the readers of the work of that title are aware, I was accompanied throughout the entire journey by my

wife, who, with extraordinary hardihood and devotion, shared every difficulty with which African travel is

WITHOUT troubling the public with a description of that portion of the Nile to the north of the first cataract,

or with a detailed account of the Egyptian ruins, that have been visited by a thousand tourists, I will

commence by a few extracts from my journal, written at the close of the boat voyage from Cairo :

"May 8, 1861.No air. The thermometer 104 degrees Fahr.; a stifling heat. Becalmed, we have been lying

the entire day below the ruins of Philae. These are the most imposing monuments of the Nile, owing to their

peculiar situation upon a rocky island that commands the passage of the river above the cataract. The banks

of the stream are here hemmed in by ranges of hills from 100 to 250 feet high; these are entirely destitute of

soil, being composed of enormous masses of red granite, piled block upon block, the rude masonry of Nature

that has walled in the river. The hollows between the hills are choked with a yellow sand, which, drifted by

the wind, has, in many instances, completely filled the narrow valleys. Upon either side of the Nile are

vestiges of ancient forts. The land appears as though it bore the curse of Heaven; misery, barrenness, and the

heat of a furnace are its features. The glowing rocks, devoid of a trace of vegetation, reflect the sun with an

intensity that must be felt to be understood. The miserable people who dwell in villages upon the river's

banks snatch every sandbank from the retiring stream, and immediately plant their scanty garden with

melons, gourds, lentils, this being their only resource for cultivation. Not an inch of available soil is lost; but

day by day, as the river decreases, fresh rows of vegetables are sown upon the newlyacquired land. At

Assouan, the sandbanks are purely sand brought down by the cataracts, therefore soil must be added to enable

the people to cultivate. They dig earth from the ruins of the ancient town; this they boat across the river and

spread upon the sandbank, by which excessive labour they secure sufficient mould to support their crops.

In the vicinity of Philae the very barrenness of the scenery possesses a charm. The ironlike sterility of the

granite rocks, naked except in spots where the wind has sheeted them with sand; the groves of palms

springing unexpectedly into view in this desert wilderness, as a sudden bend of the river discovers a village;

the ever blue and never clouded sky above, and, the only blessing of this blighted land, the Nile, silently

flowing between its stern walls of rocks towards the distant land of Lower Egypt, form a total that produces a

scene to be met with nowhere but upon the Nile. In this miserable spot the unfortunate inhabitants are taxed

equally with those of the richer districtsabout fivepence annually for each date palm.

"May 9.A good breeze, but tremendous heat. Although the floor and the curtains of the cabin are

continually wetted, and the Venetian blinds are closed, the thermometer, at 4 P.M., stood at 105 degrees in

the shade; and upon deck, 137 degrees in the sun. This day we passed the ruins of several small temples. The

country is generally rocky, with intervals of ten or twelve miles of desert plains.

"May 10.Fine breeze, the boat sailing well. Passed several small temples. The henna grows in considerable

quantities on the left bank of the river. The leaf resembles that of the myrtle; the blossom has a powerful

fragrance; it grows like a feather, about eighteen inches long, forming a cluster of small yellow flowers. The

"May 11.At 5 A.M. we arrived at Korosko; lat. 22 degrees 50 minutes N.; the haltingplace for all vessels

At this wretched spot the Nile is dreary beyond description, as a vast desert, unenlivened by cultivation,

forms its borders, through which the melancholy river rolls towards Lower Egypt in the cloudless glare of a

tropical sun. From whence came this extraordinary stream that could flow through these burning sandy

deserts, unaided by tributary channels? That was the mysterious question as we stepped upon the shore now,

to commence our land journey in search of the distant sources. We climbed the steep sandy bank, and sat

We had been twentysix days sailing from Cairo to this point. The boat returned, and left us on the east bank

Korosko is not rich in supplies. A few miserable Arab huts, with the usual fringe of dusty date palms,

compose the village; the muddy river is the frontier on the west, the burning desert on the east. Thus hemmed

in, Korosko is a narrow strip of a few yards' width on the margin of the Nile, with only one redeeming feature

I had a firman from the Viceroy, a cook, and a dragoman. Thus my impedimenta were not numerous. The

firman was an order to all Egyptian officials for assistance; the cook was dirty and incapable; and the

interpreter was nearly ignorant of English, although a professed polyglot. With this small beginning, Africa

was before me, and thus I commenced the search for the Nile sources. Absurd as this may appear, it was a

correct commencement. Ignorant of Arabic, I could not have commanded a large party, who would have been

at the mercy of the interpreter or dragoman; thus, the first qualification necessary to success was a knowledge

After a delay of some days, I obtained sixteen camels from the sheik. I had taken the precaution to provide

waterbarrels, in addition to the usual goatskins; and, with a trustworthy guide, we quitted Korosko on the

The route from Korosko across the Nubian desert cuts off the chord of an arc made by the great westerly

bend of the Nile. This chord is about 230 miles in length. Throughout this barren desert there is no water,

except at the halfway station, Moorahd (from moorra, bitter); this, although salt and bitter, is relished by

camels. During the hot season in which we unfortunately travelled, the heat was intense, the thermometer

ranging from 106 degrees to 114 degrees Fahr. in the shade. The parching blast of the simoom was of such

exhausting power, that the water rapidly evaporated from the closed waterskins. It was, therefore, necessary

to save the supply by a forced march of seven days, in which period we were to accomplish the distance, and

During the cool months, from November until February, the desert journey is not disagreeable; but the vast

area of glowing sand exposed to the scorching sun of summer, in addition to the withering breath of the

simoom, renders the forced march of 230 miles in seven days, at two and a half miles per hour, the most

Farewell to the Nile! We turned our backs upon the lifegiving river, and our caravan commenced the silent

A few hours from Korosko the misery of the scene surpassed description. Glowing like a furnace, the vast

extent of yellow sand stretched to the horizon. Rows of broken hills, all of volcanic origin, broke the flat

plain. Conical tumuli of volcanic slag here and there rose to the height of several hundred feet, and in the far

distance resembled the Pyramids of Lower Egyptdoubtless they were the models for that ancient and

everlasting architecture; hills of black basalt jutted out from the barren base of sand, and the molten air

quivered on the overheated surface of the fearful desert. 114 degrees Fahr. in the shade under the

waterskins; 137 degrees in the sun. Noiselessly the spongy tread of the camels crept along the sandthe

only sound was the rattle of some loosely secured baggage of their packs. The Arab cameldrivers followed

silently at intervals, and hour by hour we struck deeper into the solitude of the Nubian desert.

We entered a dead level plain of orangecoloured sand, surrounded by pyramidical hills: the surface was

strewn with objects resembling cannon shot and grape of all sizes from a 32pounder downwardsthe spot

looked like the old battlefield of some infernal region; rocks glowing with heatnot a vestige of

vegetationbarren, withering desolation.The slow rocking step of the camels was most irksome, and

despite the heat, I dismounted to examine the Satanic bombs and cannon shot. Many of them were as

perfectly round as though cast in a mould, others were eggshaped, and all were hollow. With some difficulty

I broke them, and found them to contain a bright red sand: they were, in fact, volcanic bombs that had been

formed by the ejection of molten lava to a great height from active volcanoes; these had become globular in

falling, and, having cooled before they reached the earth, they retained their forms as hard spherical bodies,

precisely resembling cannon shot. The exterior was brown, and appeared to be rich in iron. The smaller

specimens were the more perfect spheres, as they cooled quickly, but many of the heavier masses had

evidently reached the earth when only half solidified, and had collapsed upon falling. The sandy plain was

covered with such vestiges of volcanic action, and the infernal bombs lay as imperishable relics of a

Passing through this wretched solitude we entered upon a scene of surpassing desolation. Far as the eye could

reach were waves like a stormy sea, grey, coldlooking waves in the burning heat; but no drop of water: it

appeared as though a sudden curse had turned a raging sea to stone. The simoom blew over this horrible

wilderness, and drifted the hot sand into the crevices of the rocks, and the camels drooped their heads before

the suffocating wind; but still the caravan noiselessly crept along over the rocky undulations, until the stormy

Here every now and then we discovered withered melons (Cucumis colocynthis); the leaves had long since

disappeared, and the shrivelled stalks were brittle as glass. They proved that even the desert had a season of

life, however short; but the desert fruits were bitter. So intensely bitter was the dry white interior of these

melons, that it exactly resembled quinine in taste; when rubbed between the fingers, it became a fine white

powder. The Arabs use this medicinally; a small piece placed in a cup of milk, and allowed to stand for a few

hours, renders the draught a strong aperient. The sunthat relentless persecutor of the desert travellersank

behind the western hills, and the long wished for night arrived; cool, delicious night! the thermometer 78

The guide commanded the caravan,he was the desert pilot, and no one dared question his directions; he

ordered a halt for TWO HOURS' rest. This was the usual stage and haltingplace by the side of a

perpendicular rock, the base of which was strewn thick with camel's dung; this excellent fuel soon produced a

blazing fire, the coffee began to boil, and fowls were roasting for a hasty dinner. A short snatch of sleep upon

the sand, and the voice of the guide again disturbed us. The camels had not been unloaded, but had lain down

to rest with their packs, and had thus eaten their feed of dhurra (Sorghum vulgare) from a mat. In a few

In the cool night I preferred walking to the uneasy motion of the camel; the air was most invigorating after

the intense heat of the day and the prostration caused by the simoom. The desert had a charm by night, as the

horizon of its nakedness was limited; the rocks assumed fantastic shapes in the bright moonlight, and the

profound stillness produced an effect of the supernatural in that wild and mysterious solitude; the Arab belief

in the genii and afreet, and all the demon enemies of man, was a natural consequence of a wandering life in

In fortysix hours and fortyfive minutes' actual marching from Korosko we reached Moorahd, "the bitter

This is a mournful spot, well known to the tired and thirsty camel, the hope of reaching which has urged him

fainting on his weary way to drink one draught before he dies: this is the camel's grave. Situated half way

between Korosko and Abou Hammed, the well of Moorahd is in an extinct crater, surrounded upon all sides

but one by precipitous cliffs about 300 feet high. The bottom is a dead flat, and forms a valley of sand about

250 yards wide. In this bosom of a crater, salt and bitter water is found at a depth of only six feet from the

The valley was a "valley of dry bones." Innumerable skeletons of camels lay in all directions; the ships of the

desert thus stranded on their voyage. Withered heaps of parched skin and bone lay here and there, in the

distinct forms in which the camels had gasped their last; the dry desert air had converted the hide into a

coffin. There were no flies here, thus there were no worms to devour the carcases; but the usual sextons were

the crows, although sometimes too few to perform their office. These were perched upon the overhanging

cliffs; but no sooner had our overworked camels taken their long draught and lain down exhausted on the

sand, than by common consent they descended from their high places, and walked round and round each tired

As many wretched animals simply crawl to this spot to die, the crows, from long experience and constant

practice, can form a pretty correct diagnosis upon the case of a sick camel; they had evidently paid a

professional visit to my caravan, and were especially attentive in studying the case of one particular camel

that was in a very weakly condition and had stretched itself full length upon the sand; nor would they leave it

The heat of Moorahd was terrific; there was no shade of any kind, and the narrow valley surrounded by

glowing rocks formed a natural oven. The intense dryness of the overheated atmosphere was such, that many

of our waterskins that appeared full were nearly empty; the precious supply had evaporated through the

porous leather, and the skins were simply distended by the expanded air within. Fortunately I had taken about

108 gallons from Korosko, and I possessed a grand reserve in my two barrels which could not waste; these

were invaluable as a resource when the supply in the skins should be exhausted. My Arab camelmen were

supposed to be provided with their own private supply; but, as they had calculated upon stealing from my

stock, in which they were disappointed, they were on exceedingly short allowance, and were suffering much

from thirst. During our forced march of three days and a half it had been impossible to perform the usual

toilette, therefore, as water was life, washing had been out of the question. Moorahd had been looked forward

to as the spot of six hours' rest, where we could indulge in the luxury of a bath on a limited scale after the

heat and fatigue of the journey. Accordingly, about two quarts of water were measured into a large Turkish

copper basin; the tent, although the heat was unendurable, was the only dressingroom, and the two quarts of

water, with a due proportion of soap, having washed two people, was about to be thrown away, when the

Arab guide, who had been waiting his opportunity, snatched the basin from the servant, and in the agony of

thirst drank nearly the whole of its contents, handing the residue to a brother Arab, with the hearty

My wife was seriously ill from the fatigue and intense heat, but there can be no halt in the desert; dead or

alive, with the caravan you must travel, as the party depends upon the supply of water. A few extracts

"May 2O.Started at 12.30 P.M. and halted at 6.30. Off again at 7.30 P.M. till 2.45 A.M. About four miles

from Moorahd, grey granite takes the place of the volcanic slag and schist that formed the rocks to that point.

The desert is now a vast plain, bounded by a range of rugged hills on the south. On the north side of

Moorahd, at a distance of above eight miles, slate is met with; this continues for about three miles of the

route, but it is of impure quality, with the exception of one vein, of a beautiful blue colour. A few miserable

stunted thorny mimosas are here to be seen scattered irregularly, as though lost in this horrible desert."

Many years ago, when the Egyptian troops first conquered Nubia, a regiment was destroyed by thirst in

crossing this desert. The men, being upon a limited allowance of water, suffered from extreme thirst, and

deceived by the appearance of a mirage that exactly resembled a beautiful lake, they insisted on being taken

to its banks by the Arab guide. It was in vain that the guide assured them that the lake was unreal, and he

refused to lose the precious time by wandering from his course. Words led to blows, and he was killed by the

soldiers, whose lives depended upon his guidance. The whole regiment turned from the track and rushed

towards the welcome waters. Thirsty and faint, over the burning sands they hurried; heavier and heavier their

footsteps becamehotter and hotter their breath, as deeper they pushed into the desertfarther and farther

from the lost track where the pilot lay in his blood; and still the mocking spirits of the desert, the afreets of

the mirage, led them on, and the lake glistening in the sunshine tempted them to bathe in its cool waters,

close to their eyes, but never at their lips. At length the delusion vanishedthe fatal lake had turned to

burning sand! Raging thirst and horrible despair! the pathless desert and the murdered guide! lost! lost! all

lost! Not a man ever left the desert, but they were subsequently discovered, parched and withered corpses, by

"May 21.Started at 5.45 A.M. till 8.45; again, at 1.45 P.M. till 7 P.M.; again, at 9.30 P.M. till 4 A.M. Saw

two gazelles, the first living creatures, except the crows at Moorahd, that we have seen since we left Korosko;

there must be a supply of water in the mountains known only to these animals. Thermometer, 111 degrees

Fahr. in the shade; at night, 78 degrees. The water in the leather bottle that I repaired is deliciously cool.

N.B.In sewing leather bottles or skins for holding water, no thread should be used, but a leathern thong,

which should be dry; it will then swell when wetted, and the seam will be watertight.

"May 22.Started at 5.30 A.M. till 9.30; again, at 2.15 P.M. till 7.15 P.M. Rested to dine, and started again

"Yesterday evening we passed through a second chain of rugged hills of grey granite, about 600 feet high,

and descended through a pass to an extensive plain, in which rose abruptly, like huge pyramids, four granite

hills, at great distances apart. So exactly do they resemble artificial pyramids at a distance, that it is difficult

to believe they are natural objects. I feel persuaded that the ancient Egyptians took their designs for

monuments and buildings from the hills themselves, and raised in the plains of Lower Egypt artificial

pyramids in imitation of the granite hills of this form. Their temples were in form like many of the granite

ranges, and were thoroughly encased with stone. The extraordinary massiveness of these works suggests that

Nature assisted the design; the stone columns are imitations of the date palms, and the buildings are copies of

"Throughout the route from Korosko, the skeletons of camels number about eight per mile, with the

exception of the last march on either side of the wateringplace Moorahd, on which there are double that

number, as the animals have become exhausted as they approach the well. In the steep pass through the hills,

where the heat is intense, and the sand deep, the mortality is dreadful; in some places I counted six and eight

in a heap; and this difficult portion of the route is a mass of bones, as every weak animal gives in at the trying

"So dreadful a desert is this between Korosko and Abou Hammed, that Said Pasha ordered the route to be

closed; but it was reopened upon the application of foreign consuls, as the most direct road to the Soudan.

Our Bishareen Arabs are firstrate walkers, as they have performed the entire journey on foot. Their water

and provisions were all exhausted yesterday, but fortunately I had guarded the key of my two watercasks;

thus I had a supply when every waterskin was empty, and on the last day I divided my sacred stock amongst

the men, and the still more thirsty camels. In the hot months, a camel cannot march longer than three days

"Having arrived here (Abou Hammed) at 4.25 this morning, 23d May, I had the luxury of a bath. The very

sight of the Nile was delightful, after the parched desolation of the last seven days. The small village is utterly

destitute of everything, and the sterile desert extends to the very margin of the Nile. The journey having

occupied ninetytwo hours of actual marching across the desert, gives 230 miles as the distance from

Korosko, at the loadedcamel rate of two and a half miles per hour. The average duration of daily march has

been upwards of thirteen hours, including a day's halt at Moorahd. My camels have arrived in tolerable

condition, as their loads did not exceed 400 lbs. each; the usual load is 500 lbs.

"May 24.Rested both men and beasts. A caravan of about thirty camels arrived, having lost three during

"May 25.Started at 5 A.M. The route is along the margin of the Nile, to which the desert extends. A fringe

of stunted bushes, and groves of the coarse and inelegant dome palm, mark the banks of the river by a thicket

of about half a mile in width. I saw many gazelles, and succeeded in stalking a fine buck, and killing him

"May 26.Marched ten hours. Saw gazelles, but so wild that it was impossible to shoot. Thermometer 110

"May 27.Marched four hours and fortyfive minutes, when we were obliged to halt, as F. is very ill. In the

"May 28.Marched fifteen hours, to make up for the delay of yesterday. Shot a buck on the route.

"May 29.The march of yesterday cut off an angle of the river, and we made a straight course through the

desert, avoiding a bend of the stream. At 7.30 this morning we met the Nile again; the same character of

country as before, the river full of rocks, and forming a succession of rapids the entire distance from Abou

Hammed. Navigation at this season is impossible, and is most dangerous even at floodtime. The simoom is

fearful, and the heat is so intense that it was impossible to draw the guncases out of their leather covers,

which it was necessary to cut open. All woodwork is warped; ivory knifehandles are split; paper breaks

when crunched in the hand, and the very marrow seems to be dried out of the bones by this horrible simoom.

One of our camels fell down to die. Shot two buck gazelles; I saw many, but they are very wild.

"May 3O.The extreme dryness of the air induces an extraordinary amount of electricity in the hair, and in

all woollen materials. A Scotch plaid laid upon a blanket for a few hours adheres to it, and upon being

roughly withdrawn at night a sheet of flame is produced, accompanied by tolerably loud reports.

"May 31.After an early march of three hours and twenty minutes, we arrived at the town of Berber, on the

Nile, at 9.35 A.M. We have been fiftyseven hours and five minutes actually marching from Abou Hammed,

which, at two and a half miles per hour, equals 143 miles. We have thus marched 373 miles from Korosko to

Berber in fifteen days; the entire route is the monotonous Nubian desert. Our camels have averaged

twentyfive miles per day, with loads of 400 lbs. at a cost of ninety piastres (about 19s.) each, for the whole

distance. This rate, with the addition of the guide's expenses, equals about 5s. 6d. per 100 lbs. for carriage

throughout 373 miles of burning desert. Although this frightful country appears to be cut off from all

communication with the world, the extremely low rate of transport charges affords great facility for

* Since that date, 31st May, 1861, the epidemic or cattle plague carried off an immense number of camels,

and the charges of transport rose in 1864 and 1865 to a rate that completely paralysed the trade of Upper

Berber is a large town, and in appearance is similar to the Nile towns of Lower Egypt, consisting of the usual

dusty, unpaved streets, and flatroofed houses of sunbaked bricks. It is the seat of a Governor, or Mudir,

and is generally the quarters for about 1,500 troops. We were very kindly received by Halleem Effendi, the

exGovernor, who at once gave us permission to pitch the tents in his garden, close to the Nile, on the

southern outskirt of the town. After fifteen days of desert marching, the sight of a wellcultivated garden was

an Eden in our eyes. About eight acres of land, on the margin of the river, were thickly planted with lofty date

groves, and shady citron and lemon trees, beneath which we revelled in luxury on our Persian rugs, and

enjoyed complete rest after the fatigue of our long journey. Countless birds were chirping and singing in the

trees above us; innumerable ringdoves were cooing in the shady palms; and the sudden change from the

dead sterility of the desert to the scene of verdure and of life, produced an extraordinary effect upon the

spirits. What caused this curious transition? Why should this charming oasis, teeming with vegetation and

with life, be found in the yellow, sandy desert? . . . Water had worked this change; the spirit of the Nile, more

potent than any genii of the Arabian fables, had transformed the desert into a fruitful garden. Halleem

Effendi, the former Governor, had, many years ago, planted this garden, irrigated by numerous

waterwheels; and we now enjoyed the fruits, and thanked Heaven for its greatest blessings in that burning

The tents were soon arranged, the camels were paid for and discharged, and in the cool of the evening we

The firman having been officially presented by the dragoman upon our arrival in the morning, the Governor

had called with much civility to inquire into our projects and to offer assistance. We were shortly seated on

carpets outside the tent, and after pipes and coffee, and the usual preliminary compliments, my dragoman

explained, that the main object of our journey was to search for the sources of the Nile, or, as he described it,

Both the Governor and Halleem Effendi, with many officers who had accompanied them, were Turks; but, in

spite of the gravity and solidity for which the Turk is renowned, their faces relaxed into a variety of

expressions at this (to them) absurd announcement. "The head of the Nile!" they exclaimed, "impossible!"

"Do they know where it is?" inquired the Governor, of the dragoman; and upon an explanation being given,

that, as we did not know where it was, we had proposed to discover it, the Turks merely shook their heads,

sipped their coffee, and took extra whiffs at their long pipes, until at length the white haired old Halleem

"Don't go upon so absurd an errand; nobody knows anything about the Nile, neither will any one discover its

source. We do not even know the source of the Atbara; how should we know the source of the great Nile. A

great portion of the Atbara flows through the Pasha of Egypt's dominions; the firman in your possession with

his signature, will insure you respect, so long as you remain within his territory; but if you cross his frontier,

you will be in the hands of savages. The White Nile is the country of the negroes; wild, ferocious races who

have neither knowledge of God nor respect for the Pasha, and you must travel with a powerful armed force;

the climate is deadly; how could you penetrate such a region to search for what is useless even should you

attain it? But how would it be possible for a lady, young and delicate, to endure what would kill the strongest

man? Travel along the Atbara river into the Taka country, there is much to be seen that is unexplored; but

There was some sense in old Halleem Effendi's advice; it was the cool and cautious wisdom of old age, but as

I was not so elderly, I took it "cum grano salis." He was a charming old gentleman, the perfect beau ideal of

the true old style of Turk, but few specimens of which remain; all that he had said was spoken in sincerity,

and I resolved to collect as much information as possible from the greyheaded authorities before I should

commence the expedition. I was deeply impressed with one fact, that until I could dispense with an

interpreter it would be impossible to succeed, therefore I determined to learn Arabic as speedily as possible.

A week's rest in the garden of Halleem Effendi prepared us for the journey. I resolved to explore the Atbara

river and the Abyssinian affluents, prior to commencing the White Nile voyage. The Governor promised me

two Turkish soldiers as attendants, and I arranged to send my heavy baggage by boat to Khartoum, and

secure the advantage of travelling light; a comfort that no one can appreciate who has not felt the daily delay

in loading a long string of camels. Both my wife and I had suffered from a short attack of fever brought on by

the prostrating effect of the simoom, which at this season (June) was at its height. The Nile was slowly rising,

although it was still low; occasionally it fell about eighteen inches in one night, but again rose; this proved

that, although the rains had commenced, they were not constant, as the steady and rapid increase of the river

had not taken place. The authorities assured me that the Blue Nile was now rising at Khartoum, which

The garden of Halleem Effendi was attended by a number of fine powerful slaves from the White Nile, whose

stout frames and glossy skins were undeniable witnesses of their master's care. A charmingly pretty slave girl

paid us daily visits, with presents of fruit from her kind master and numerous mistresses, who, with the usual

Turkish compliments as a preliminary message, requested permission to visit the English lady.

In the cool hour of evening a bevy of ladies approached through the dark groves of citron trees, so gaily

dressed in silks of the brightest dyes of yellow, blue, and scarlet, that no bouquet of flowers could have been

more gaudy. They were attended by numerous slaves, and the head servant politely requested me to withdraw

during the interview. Thus turned out of my tent, I was compelled to patience and solitude beneath a

The result of the interview with my wife was most satisfactory; the usual womanish questions had been

replied to, and hosts of compliments exchanged. We were then rich in all kinds of European trifles that

excited their curiosity, and a few little presents established so great an amount of confidence that they gave

the individual history of each member of the family from childhood, that would have filled a column of the

Some of these ladies were very young and pretty, and of course exercised a certain influence over their

husbands; thus, on the following morning, we were inundated with visitors, as the male members of the

family came to thank us for the manner in which their ladies had been received; and fruit, flowers, and the

general produce of the garden were presented to us in profusion. However pleasant, there were drawbacks to

our garden of Eden; there was dust in our Paradise; not the dust that we see in Europe upon unwatered roads,

that simply fills the eyes, but sudden clouds raised by whirlwinds in the desert which fairly choked the ears

and nostrils when thus attacked. June is the season when these phenomena are most prevalent. At that time

the rains have commenced in the south, and are extending towards the north; the cold and heavy air of the

southern rainclouds sweeps down upon the overheated atmosphere of the desert, and produces sudden

violent squalls and whirlwinds when least expected, as at that time the sky is cloudless.

The effect of these desert whirlwinds is most curious, as their force is sufficient to raise dense columns of

sand and dust several thousand feet high; these are not the evanescent creations of a changing wind, but they

frequently exist for many hours, and travel forward, or more usually in circles, resembling in the distance

solid pillars of sand. The Arab superstition invests these appearances with the supernatural, and the

mysterious sandcolumn of the desert wandering in its burning solitude, is an evil spirit, a "Gin" ("genii"

plural, of the Arabian Nights). I have frequently seen many such columns at the same time in the boundless

desert, all travelling or waltzing in various directions at the wilful choice of each whirlwind: this vagrancy of

character is an undoubted proof to the Arab mind of their independent and diabolical origin.

The Abyssinian traveller, Bruce, appears to have entertained a peculiar dread of the dangers of such sand

columns, but on this point his fear was exaggerated. Cases may have occurred where caravans have been

suffocated by whirlwinds of sand, but these are rare exceptions, and the usual effects of the dust storm are the

unroofing of thatched huts, the destruction of a few date palms, and the disagreeable amount of sand that not

only half chokes both man and beast, but buries all objects that may be lying on the ground some inches deep

The wind at this season (June) was changeable, and strong blasts from the south were the harbingers of the

approaching rainy season. We had no time to lose, and we accordingly arranged to start. I discharged my

dirty cook, and engaged a man who was brought by a coffeehouse keeper, by whom he was highly

recommended; but, as a precaution against deception, I led him before the Mudir, or Governor, to be

registered before our departure. To my astonishment, and to his infinite disgust, he was immediately

recognised as an old offender, who had formerly been imprisoned for theft! The Governor, to prove his

friendship, and his interest in my welfare, immediately sent the police to capture the coffeehouse keeper

who had recommended the cook. No sooner was the unlucky surety brought to the Divan than he was

condemned to receive 200 lashes for having given a false character. The sentence was literally carried out, in

spite of my remonstrance, and the police were ordered to make the case public to prevent a recurrence. The

Governor assured me, that as I held a firman from the Viceroy he could not do otherwise, and that I must

believe him to be my truest friend. "Save me from my friends," was an adage quickly proved. I could not

procure a cook, neither any other attendants, as every one was afraid to guarantee a character, lest he might

The Governor came to my rescue, and sent immediately the promised Turkish soldiers, who were to act in the

double capacity of escort and servants. They were men of totally opposite characters. Hadji Achmet was a

hardy, powerful, daredevillooking Turk, while Hadji Velli was the perfection of politeness, and as gentle

as a lamb. My new allies procured me three donkeys in addition to the necessary baggage camels, and we

started from the pleasant garden of Halleem Effendi on the evening of the 10th of June for the junction of the

"'Mongst them were several Englishmen of pith, Sixteen named Thompson, and nineteen named Smith."

MAHOMET, Achmet, and Ali are equivalent to Smith, Brown, and Thompson. Accordingly, of my few

attendants, my dragoman was Mahomet, and my principal guide was Achmet; and subsequently I had a

number of Alis. Mahomet was a regular Cairo dragoman, a native of Dongola, almost black, but exceedingly

tenacious regarding his shade of colour, which he declared to be light brown. He spoke very bad English, was

excessively conceited, and irascible to a degree. No pasha was so bumptious or overbearing to his inferiors,

but to me and to his mistress while in Cairo he had the gentleness of the dove, and I had engaged him at 5l.

per month to accompany me to the White Nile. Men change with circumstances; climate affects the health

and temper; the sleek and wellfed dog is amiable, but he would be vicious when thin and hungry; the man in

luxury and the man in need are not equally angelic. Now Mahomet was one of those dragomen who are

accustomed to the civilized expeditions of the British tourist to the first or second cataract, in a Nile boat

replete with conveniences and luxuries, upon which the dragoman is monarch supreme, a whale among the

minnows, who rules the vessel, purchases daily a host of unnecessary supplies, upon which he clears his

profit, until he returns to Cairo with his pockets filled sufficiently to support him until the following Nile

season. The short three months' harvest, from November until February, fills his granary for the year. Under

such circumstances the temper should be angelic. But times had changed: the luxurious Mahomet had left the

comfortable Nile boat at Korosko, and he had crossed the burning desert upon a jolting camel; he had left the

wellknown route where the dragoman was supreme, and he found himself among people who treated him in

the light of a common servant. "A change came o'er the spirit of his dream;" Mahomet was no longer a great

man, and his temper changed with circumstances; in fact, Mahomet became unbearable, and still he was

absolutely necessary, as he was the tongue of the expedition until we should accomplish Arabic. To him the

very idea of exploration was an absurdity; he had never believed in it from the first, and he now became

impressed with the fact that he was positively committed to an undertaking that would end most likely in his

death, if not in terrible difficulties; he determined, under the circumstances, to make himself as disagreeable

as possible to all parties. With this amiable resolution Mahomet adopted a physical infirmity in the shape of

deafness; in reality, no one was more acute in hearing, but as there are no bells where there are no houses, he

of course could not answer such a summons, and he was compelled to attend to the call of his own

name"Mahomet! Mahomet!" No reply, although the individual was sitting within a few feet, apparently

absorbed in the contemplation of his own boots. "Mahomet!" with an additional emphasis upon the second

syllable. Again no response. "Mahomet, you rascal, why don't you answer?" This energetic address would

effect a change in his position; the mild and lamblike dragoman of Cairo would suddenly start from the

ground, tear his own hair from his head in handfuls, and shout, "Mahomet! Mahomet! Mahomet! always

Mahomet! Dn Mahomet! I wish he were dead, or back in Cairo, this brute Mahomet!" The irascible

dragoman would then beat his own head unmercifully with his fists, in a paroxysm of rage.

To comfort him I could only exclaim, "Well done, Mahomet! thrash him; pommel him well; punch his head;

you know him best; he deserves it; don't spare him!" This advice, acting upon the natural perversity of his

disposition, generally soothed him, and he ceased punching his head. This man was entirely out of his place,

if not out of his mind, at certain moments, and having upon one occasion smashed a basin by throwing it in

the face of the cook, and upon another occasion narrowly escaped homicide, by throwing an axe at a man's

head, which missed by an inch, he became a notorious character in the little expedition.

We left Berber in the evening at sunset; we were mounted upon donkeys, while our Turkish attendants rode

upon excellent dromedaries that belonged to their regiment of irregular cavalry. As usual, when ready to start,

Mahomet was the last; he had piled a huge mass of bags and various luggage upon his donkey, that almost

obscured the animal, and he sat mounted upon this pinnacle dressed in gorgeous clothes, with a brace of

handsome pistols in his belt, and his gun slung across his shoulders. Upon my remonstrating with him upon

the cruelty of thus overloading the donkey, he flew into a fit of rage, and dismounting immediately, he drew

his pistols from his belt and dashed them upon the ground; his gun shared the same fate, and heaving his

weapons upon the sand, he sullenly walked behind his donkey, which he drove forward with the caravan.

We pushed forward at the usual rapid amble of the donkeys; and, accompanied by Hadji Achmet upon his

dromedary, with the coffeepot, and a large Persian rug slung behind the saddle, we quickly distanced the

There was no difficulty in the route, as the sterile desert of sand and pebbles was bounded by a fringe of bush

amid mimosa that marked the course of the Nile, to which our way lay parallel. There was no object to attract

particular attention, and no sound but that of the bleating goats driven homeward by the Arab boys, and the

sharp cry of the desert sand grouse as they arrived in flocks to drink in the welcome river. The flight of these

birds is extremely rapid, and is more like that of the pigeon than the grouse; they inhabit the desert, but they

travel great distances both night and morning to water, as they invariably drink twice a day. As they approach

the river they utter the cry "Chuckow, chuckow," in a loud clear note, and immediately after drinking they

return upon their long flight to the desert. There are several varieties of the sand grouse. I have met with

We slept in the desert about five miles from Berber, and on the following day, after a scorching march of

about twenty miles, we arrived at the junction of the Atbara river with the Nile. Throughout the route the

barren sand stretched to the horizon on the left, while on the right, within a mile of the Nile, the soil was

sufficiently rich to support a certain amount of vegetationchiefly dwarf mimosas and the Asclepias

gigantea. The latter I had frequently seen in Ceylon, where it is used medicinally by the native doctors; but

here it was ignored, except for the produce of a beautiful silky down which is used for stuffing cushions and

pillows. This vegetable silk is contained in a soft pod or bladder about the size of an orange. Both the leaves

and the stem of this plant emit a highly poisonous milk, that exudes from the bark when cut or bruised; the

least drop of this will cause total blindness, if in contact with the eye. I have seen several instances of acute

ophthalmia that have terminated in loss of sight from the accidental rubbing of the eye with the hand when

engaged in cutting firewood from the asclepias. The wood is extremely light, and is frequently tied into fagots

and used by the Arabs as a support while swimming, in lieu of cork. Although the poisonous qualities of the

plant cause it to be shunned by all other animals, it is nevertheless greedily devoured by goats, who eat it

It was about two hours after sunset when we arrived at the steep bank of the Atbara river. Pushing through the

fringe of young dome palms that formed a thick covert upon the margin, we cautiously descended the bank

for about twentyfive feet, as the bright glare of the river's bed deceived me by the resemblance to water. We

found a broad surface of white sand, which at that season formed the dry bed of the river. Crossing this arid

bottom of about 400 yards in width, we unsaddled on the opposite side, by a bed of water melons planted

near a small pool of water. A few of these we chopped in pieces for our tired donkeys, and we shared in the

cool and welcome luxury ourselves that was most refreshing after the fatigue of the day's journey. Long

before our camels arrived, we had drunk our coffee and were sound asleep upon the sandy bed of the Atbara.

At daybreak on the following morning, while the camels were being loaded, I strolled to a small pool in the

sand, tempted by a couple of wild geese; these were sufficiently unsophisticated as to allow me to approach

within shot, and I bagged them both, and secured our breakfast; they were the common Egyptian geese,

which are not very delicate eating. The donkeys being saddled, we at once started with our attendant, Hadji

Achmet, at about five miles per hour, in advance of our slower caravan. The route was upon the river's

margin, due east, through a sandy copse of thorny mimosas which fringed the river's course for about a

The Atbara had a curious appearance; in no part was it less than 400 yards in width, while in many places this

breadth was much exceeded. The banks were from twentyfive to thirty feet deep: these had evidently been

overflowed during floods, bnt at the present time the river was dead; not only partially dry, but so glaring

Great numbers of the dome palm (Hyphoene Thebaica, Mart.) grew upon the banks; these trees are of great

service to the Arab tribes, who at this season of drought forsake the deserts and flock upon the margin of the

Atbara. The leaves of the dome supply them with excellent material for mats and ropes, while the fruit is used

both for man and beast. The dome palm resembles the palmyra in the form and texture of its fanshaped

leaves, but there is a distinguishing peculiarity in the growth: instead of the straight single stem of the

palmyra, the dome palm spreads into branches, each of which invariably represents the letter Y. The fruit

grows in dense clusters, numbering several hundred, of the size of a small orange, but of an irregular oval

shape; these are of a rich brown colour, and bear a natural polish as though varnished. So hard is the fruit and

uninviting to the teeth, that a deal board would be equally practicable for mastication; the Arabs pound them

between stones, by which rough process they detach the edible portion in the form of a resinous powder. The

rind of the nut which produces this powder is about a quarter of an inch thick; this coating covers a strong

shell which contains a nut of vegetable ivory, a little larger than a fullsized walnut. When the resinous

powder is detached, it is either eaten raw, or it is boiled into a delicious porridge, with milk; this has a strong

The vegetable ivory nuts are then soaked in water for about twentyfour hours, after which they are heaped

in large piles upon a fire until nearly dry, and thoroughly steamed; this process renders them sufficiently

tractable to be reduced by pounding in a heavy mortar. Thus, broken into small pieces they somewhat

resemble halfroasted chestnuts, and in this state they form excellent food for cattle. The useful dome palm is

the chief support of the desert Arabs when in times of drought and scarcity the supply of corn has failed. At

this season (June) there was not a blade of even the withered grass of the desert oases. Our donkeys lived

exclusively upon the dhurra (Sorghum Egyptiaca) that we carried with us, and the camels required a daily

supply of corn in addition to the dry twigs and bushes that formed their dusty food. The margin of the river

was miserable and uninviting; the trees and bushes were entirely leafless from the intense heat, as are the

trees in England during winter. The only shade was afforded by the evergreen dome palms; nevertheless, the

Arabs occupied the banks at intervals of three or four miles, wherever a pool of water in some deep bend of

the dried river's bed offered an attraction; in such places were Arab villages or camps, of the usual mat tents

Many pools were of considerable size and of great depth. In floodtime a tremendous torrent sweeps down

the course of the Atbara, and the sudden bends of the river are hollowed out by the force of the stream to a

depth of twenty or thirty feet below the level of the bed. Accordingly these holes become reservoirs of water

when the river is otherwise exhausted. In such asylums all the usual inhabitants of this large river are

crowded together in a comparatively narrow space. Although these pools vary in size, from only a few

hundred yards to a mile in length, they are positively full of life; huge fish, crocodiles of immense size,

turtles, and occasionally hippopotami, consort together in close and unwishedfor proximity.

The animals of the desertgazelles, hyaenas, and wild assesare compelled to resort to these crowded

drinkingplaces, occupied by the flocks of the Arabs equally with the timid beasts of the chase. The birds that

during the cooler months would wander free throughout the country, are now collected in vast numbers along

the margin of the exhausted river; innumerable doves, varying in species, throng the trees and seek the shade

of the dome palms; thousands of desert grouse arrive morning and evening to drink and to depart; while birds

in multitudes, of lovely plumage, escape from the burning desert, and colonize the poor but welcome bushes

The heat was intense. As we travelled along the margin of the Atbara, and felt with the suffering animals the

exhaustion of the clinmate, I acknowledged the grandeur of the Nile that could overcome the absorption of

such thirsty sands, and the evaporation caused by the burning atmosphere of Nubia. For nearly 1,200 miles

from the junction of the Atbara with the parent stream to the Mediterranean, not one streamlet joined the

mysterious river, neither one drop of rain ruffled its waters, unless a rare thundershower, as a curious

phenomenon, startled the Arabs as they travelled along the desert. Nevertheless the Nile overcame its

enemies, while the Atbara shrank to a skeleton, bare and exhausted, reduced to a few pools that lay like

Notwithstanding the overpowering sun, there were certain advantages to the traveller at this season; it was

unnecessary to carry a large supply of water, as it could be obtained at intervals of a few miles. There was an

indescribable delight in the cool night, when, in the perfect certainty of fine weather, we could rest in the

open air with the clear bright starlit sky above us. There were no mosquitoes, neither were there any of the

insect plagues of the tropics; the air was too dry for the gnat tribe, and the moment of sunset was the signal

for perfect enjoyment, free from the usual drawbacks of African travel. As the river pools were the only

drinkingplaces for birds and game, the gun supplied not only my own party, but I had much to give away to

the Arabs in exchange for goat's milk, the meal of the dome nuts, Gazelles were exceedingly numerous, but

shy, and so difficult to approach that they required most careful stalking. At this season of intense heat they

drank twice a dayat about an hour after sunrise, and half an hour before sunset.

The great comfort of travelling along the bank of the river in a desert country is the perfect freedom, as a

continual supply of water enables the explorer to rest at his leisure in any attractive spot where game is

plentiful, or where the natural features of the country invite investigation. We accordingly halted, after some

days' journey, at a spot named Collodabad, where an angle of the river had left a deep pool of about a mile in

length: this was the largest sheet of water that we had seen throughout the course of the Atbara. A number of

Arabs had congregated at this spot with their flocks and herds; the total absence of verdure had reduced the

animals to extreme leanness, as the goats gathered their scanty sustenance from the seedpods of the

mimosas, which were shaken down to the expectant flocks by the Arab boys, with long hooked poles. These

seeds were extremely oily, and resembled linseed, but the rank flavour was disagreeable and acrid.

This spot was seven days' march from the Nile junction, or about 160 miles. The journey had been extremely

monotonous, as there had been no change in the scenery; it was the interminable desert, with the solitary

streak of vegetation in the belt of mimosas and dome palms, about a mile and a half in width, that marked the

course of the river. I had daily shot gazelles, geese, pigeons, desert grouse, but no larger game. I was

informed that at this spot, Collodabad, I should be introduced for the first time to the hippopotamus.

Owing to the total absence of nourishing food, the cattle produced a scanty supply of milk; thus the Arabs,

who depended chiefly upon their flocks for their subsistence, were in great distress, and men and beasts

mutually suffered extreme hardship. The Arabs that occupy the desert north of the Atbara are the Bishareens;

it was among a large concourse of these people that we pitched our tents on the banks of the river at

This being the principal wateringplace along the deserted bed of the Atbara, the neighbourhood literally

swarmed with doves, sand grouse, and other birds, in addition to many geese and pelicans.

Early in the morning I procured an Arab guide to search for the reported hippopotami. My tents were among

a grove of dome palms on the margin of the river; thus I had a clear view of the bed for a distance of about

half a mile on either side. This portion of the Atbara was about 500 yards in width, the banks were about

thirty feet perpendicular depth; and the bend of the river had caused the formation of the deep hollow on the

opposite side which now formed the pool, while every other part was dry. This pool occupied about

onethird the breadth of the river, bounded by the sand upon one side, and by a perpendicular cliff upon the

other, upon which grew a fringe of green bushes similar to willows. These were the only succulent leaves that

We descended the steep sandy bank in a spot that the Arabs had broken down to reach the water, and after

trudging across about 400 yards of deep sand, we reached the extreme and narrowest end of the pool; here for

the first time I saw the peculiar fourtoed print of the hippopotamus's foot. A bed of melons had been planted

here by the Arabs in the moist sand near the water, but the fruit had been entirely robbed by the hippopotami.

A melon is exactly adapted for the mouth of this animal, as he could crunch the largest at one squeeze, and

revel in the juice. Not contented with the simple fruits of the garden, a large bull hippopotamus had recently

killed the proprietor. The Arab wished to drive it from his plantation, but was immediately attacked by the

hippo, who caught him in its mouth and killed him by one crunch. This little incident had rendered the hippo

exceedingly daring, and it had upon several occasions charged out of the water, when the people had driven

their goats to drink; therefore it would be the more satisfactory to obtain a shot, and to supply the hungry

At this early hour, 6 A.M., no one had descended to the pool, thus all the tracks upon the margin were fresh

and undisturbed: there were the huge marks of crocodiles that had recently returned to the water, while many

of great size were still lying upon the sand in the distance: these slowly crept into the pool as we approached.

The Arabs had dug small holes in the sand within a few yards of the water: these were the artificial

drinkingplaces for their goats and sheep, that would have been snapped up by the crocodiles had they

ventured to drink in the pool of crowded monsters. I walked for about a mile and a half along the sand

without seeing a sign of hippopotami, except their numerous tracks upon the margin. There was no wind, and

the surface of the water was unruffled; thus I could see every creature that rose in the pool either to breathe or

to bask in the morning sunshine. The number and size of the fish, turtles, and crocodiles were extraordinary;

many beautiful gazelles approached from all sides for their morning draught: wild geese, generally in pairs,

disturbed the wary crocodiles by their cry of alarm as we drew near, and the desert grouse in flocks of many

thousands had gathered together, and were circling in a rapid flight above the water, wishing, but afraid, to

descend and drink. Having a shot gun with me, I fired and killed six at one discharge, but one of the wounded

birds having fallen into the water at a distance of about 120 yards, it was immediately seized by a

whitethroated fisheagle, which perched upon a tree, swooped down upon the bird, utterly disregarding the

report of the gun. The Bishareen Arabs have no firearms, thus the sound of a gun was unknown to the game

I had killed several wild geese for breakfast in the absence of the hippopotami, when I suddenly heard the

peculiar loud snorting neigh of these animals in my rear; we had passed them unperceived, as they had been

beneath the surface. After a quick walk of about half a mile, during which time the cry of the hippos had been

several times repeated, I observed six of these curious animals standing in the water about shoulderdeep.

There was no cover, therefore I could only advance upon the sand without a chance of stalking them; this

caused them to retreat to deeper water, but upon my arrival within about eighty yards, they raised their heads

well up, and snorted an impudent challenge. I had my old Ceylon No. 10 double rifle, and, taking a steady

aim at the temple of one that appeared to be the largest, the ball cracked loudly upon the skull. Never had

there been such a commotion in the pool as now! At the report of the rifle, five heads sank and disappeared

like stones, but the sixth hippo leaped half out of the water, and, falling backwards, commenced a series of

violent struggles: now upon his back; then upon one side, with all four legs frantically paddling, and raising a

cloud of spray and foam; then waltzing round and round with its huge jaws wide open, raising a swell in the

hitherto calm surface of the water. A quick shot with the lefthand barrel produced no effect, as the

movements of the animal were too rapid to allow a steady aim at the forehead; I accordingly took my trmisty

little Fletcher* double rifle No. 24, and, running kneedeep into the water to obtain a close shot, I fired

exactly between the eyes, near the crown of the head. At the report of the little Fletcher the hippo

disappeared; the tiny waves raised by the commotion broke upon the sand, but the game was gone.

* This excellent and handy rifle was made by Thomas Fletcher, of Gloucester, and accompanied me like a

faithful dog throughout my journey of nearly five years to the Albert N'yanza, and returned with me to

This being my first visavis with a hippo, I was not certain whether I could claim the victory; he was gone,

but where? However, while I was speculating upon the case, I heard a tremendous rush of water, and I saw

five hippopotami tearing along in full trot through a portion of the pool that was not deep enough to cover

them above the shoulder: this was the affair of about half a minute, as they quickly reached deep water, and

The fact of five hippos in retreat after I had counted six in the onset was conclusive that my waltzing friend

was either dead or disabled; I accordingly lost no time in following the direction of the herd. Hardly had I

arrived at the spot where they had disappeared, when first one and then another head popped up and again

sank, until one more hardy than the rest ventured to appear within fifty yards, and to bellow as before. Once

more the No. 10 crashed through his head, and again the waltzing and struggling commenced like the

paddling of a steamer: this time, however, the stunned hippo in its convulsive efforts came so close to the

shore that I killed it directly in shallow water, by a forehead shot with the little Fletcher. I concluded from

The Arabs, having heard the shots fired, had begun to gather towards the spot, and, upon my men shouting

that a hippo was killed, crowds came running to the place with their knives and ropes, while others returned

to their encampment to fetch camels and mat bags to convey the flesh. In half an hour at least three hundred

Arabs were on the spot; the hippo had been hauled to shore by ropes, and, by the united efforts of the crowd,

the heavy carcase had been rolled to the edge of the water. Here the attack commenced; no pack of hungry

hyaenas could have been more savage. I gave them permission to take the flesh, and in an instant a hundred

knives were at work: they fought over the spoil like wolves. No sooner was the carcase flayed than the

struggle commenced for the meat; the people were a mass of blood, as some stood thighdeep in the reeking

intestines wrestling for the fat, while many hacked at each other's hands for coveted portions that were striven

for as a bonne bouche. I left the savage crowd in their ferocious enjoyment of flesh and blood, and I returned

to camp for breakfast, my Turk, Hadji Achmet, carrying some hippopotamus steaks.

That morning my wife and I breakfasted upon our first hippo, an animal that was destined to be our general

food throughout our journey among the Abyssinian tributaries of the Nile. After breakfast we strolled down

to the pool to search for the hippopotamus No. 1. This we at once found, dead, as it had risen to the surface,

and was floating like the back of a turtle a few inches above the water. The Arabs had been so intent upon the

division of their spoil that they had not observed their new prize; accordingly, upon the signal being given, a

general rush took place, and in half an hour a similar scene was enacted to that of hippo No. 2.

The entire Arab camp was in commotion and full of joy at this unlookedfor arrival of flesh. Camels laden

with meat and hide toiled along the sandy bed of the river; the women raised their long and shrill cry of

delight; and we were looked upon as general benefactors for having brought them a supply of good food in

this season of distress. In the afternoon I arranged my tackle, and strolled down to the pool to fish. There was

a difficulty in procuring bait; a worm was never heard of in the burning deserts of Nubia, neither had I a net

to catch small fish; I was therefore obliged to bait with pieces of hippopotamnus. Fishing in such a pool as

that of the Atbara was sufficiently exciting, as it was impossible to speculate upon what creature might accept

the invitation; but the Arabs who accompanied me were particular in guarding me against the position I had

taken under a willowbush close to the water, as they explained, that most probably a crocodile would take

me instead of the bait; they declared that accidents had frequently happened when people had sat upon the

bank either to drink with their hands, or even while watching their goats. I accordingly fished at a few feet

distant from the margin, and presently I had a bite; I landed a species of perch about two pounds' weight; this

was the "boulti," one of the best Nile fish mentioned by the traveller Bruce. In a short time I had caught a

respectable dish of fish, but hitherto no monster had paid me the slightest attention; accordingly I changed my

bait, and upon a powerful hook, fitted upon trebletwisted wire, I fastened an enticing strip of a boulti. The

bait was about four ounces, and glistened like silver; the water was tolerably clear, but not too bright, and

with such an attraction I expected something heavy. My float was a largesized pikefloat for live bait, and

this civilized sign had been only a few minutes in the wild waters of the Atbara, when, bob! and away it

went! I had a very large reel, with nearly three hundred yards of line that had been specially made for

monsters; down went the top of my rod, as though a grindstone was suspended on it, and, as I recovered its

position, away went the line, and the reel revolved, not with the sudden dash of a spirited fish, but with the

steady determined pull of a trotting horse. What on earth have I got hold of? In a few minutes about a

hundred yards of line were out, and as the creature was steadily but slowly travelling down the centre of the

channel, I determined to cry "halt!" if possible, as my tackle was extremely strong, and my rod was a single

bamboo. Accordingly, I put on a powerful strain, which was replied to by a sullen tug, a shake, and again my

rod was pulled suddenly down to the water's edge. At length, after the roughest handling, I began to reel in

slack line, as my unknown friend had doubled in upon me; and upon once more putting severe pressure upon

him or her, as it might be, I perceived a great swirl in the water, about twenty yards from the rod. The tackle

would bear anything, and I strained so heavily upon my adversary, that I soon reduced our distance; but the

water was exceedingly deep, the bank precipitous, and he was still invisible. At length, after much tugging

and countertugging, he began to show; eagerly I gazed into the water to examine my new acquaintance,

when I made out something below, in shape between a coachwheel and a spongingbath; in a few moments

more I brought to the surface an enormous turtle, well hooked. I felt like the old lady who won an elephant in

a lottery: that I had him was certain, but what was I to do with my prize? It was at the least a hundred pounds'

weight, and the bank was steep and covered with bushes; thus it was impossible to land the monster, that now

tugged and dived with the determination of the grindstone that his first pull had suggested. Once I attempted

the gaff but the trusty weapon that had landed many a fish in Scotland broke in the hard shell of the turtle,

and I was helpless. My Arab now came to my assistance, and at once terminated the struggle. Seizing the line

with both hands, utterly regardless of all remonstrance (which, being in English, he did not understand), he

quickly hauled our turtle to the surface, and held it, struggling and gnashing its jaws, close to the steep bank.

In a few moments the line slackened, and the turtle disappeared. The fight was over! The sharp horny jaws

had bitten through trebletwisted brass wire as clean as though cut by shears. My visions of turtle soup had

The heavy fish were not in the humour to take; I therefore shot one with a rifle as it came to the surface to

blow, and, the water in this spot being shallow, we brought it to shore; it was a species of carp, between thirty

and forty pounds; the scales were rather larger than a crown piece, and so hard that they would have been

difficult to pierce with a harpoon. It proved to be useless for the table, being of an oily nature that was only

In the evening I went out stalking in the desert, and returned with five fine buck gazelles. These beautiful

creatures so exactly resemble the colour of the sandy deserts which they inhabit, that they are most difficult to

distinguish, and their extreme shyness renders stalking upon foot very uncertain. I accordingly employed an

Arab to lead a camel, under cover of which I could generally manage to approach within a hundred yards. A

buck gazelle weighs from sixty to seventy pounds, and is the perfection of muscular development. No person

who has seen the gazelles in confinement in a temperate climate can form an idea of the beauty of the animal

in its native desert. Born in the scorching sun, nursed on the burning sand of the treeless and shadowless

wilderness, the gazelle is among the antelope tribe as the Arab horse is among its brethren, the highbred and

superlative beauty of the race. The skin is as sleek as satin, of a colour difficult to describe, as it varies

between the lightest mauve and yellowish brown; the belly is snowwhite; the legs, from the knee

downwards, are also white, and are as fine as though carved from ivory; the hoof is beautifully shaped, and

tapers to a sharp point; the head of the buck is ornamented by gracefullycurved annulated horns, perfectly

black, and generally from nine to twelve inches long in the bend; the eye is the wellknown perfectionthe

full, large, soft, and jetblack eye of the gazelle. Although the desert appears incapable of supporting

animmial life, there are in the undulating surface numerous shallow sandy ravines, in which are tufts of a

herbage so coarse that, as a source of nourishment, it would be valueless to a domestic animal: nevertheless,

upon this dry and wiry substance the delicate gazelles subsist; and, although they never fatten, they are

exceedingly fleshy and in excellent condition. Entirely free from fat, and nevertheless a mass of muscle and

sinew, the gazelle is the fastest of the antelope tribe. Proud of its strength, and confident in its agility, it will

generally bound perpendicularly four or five feet from the ground several times before it starts at full speed,

as though to test the quality of its sinews before the race. The Arabs course them with greyhounds, and

sometimes they are caught by running several dogs at the same time; but this result is from the folly of the

gazelle, who at first distances his pursuers like the wind; but, secure in its speed, it halts and faces the dogs,

exhausting itself by bounding exultingly in the air; in the meantime the greyhounds are closing up, and

diminishing the chance of escape. As a rule, notwithstanding this absurdity of the gazelle, it has the best of

the race, and the greyhounds return crestfallen and beaten. Altogether it is the most beautiful specimen of

game that exists, far too lovely and harmless to be hunted and killed for the mere love of sport. But when

dinner depends upon the rifle, beauty is no protection; accordingly, throughout our desert march we lived

upon gazelles, and I am sorry to confess that I became very expert at stalking these wary little animals. The

flesh, although tolerably good, has a slight flavour of musk; this is not peculiar to the gazelle, as the odour is

Having a good supply of meat, all hands were busily engaged in cutting it into strips and drying it for future

use; the bushes were covered with festoons of flesh of gazelles and hippopotami, and the skins of the former

were prepared for making girbas, or watersacks. The flaying process for this purpose is a delicate operation,

as the knife must be so dexterously used that no false cut should injure the hide. The animal is hung up by the

hind legs; an incision is then made along the inside of both thighs to the tail, and with some trouble the skin is

drawn off the body towards the head, precisely as a stocking might be drawn from the leg; by this operation

the skin forms a seamless bag, open at both ends. To form a girba, the skin must be buried in the earth for

about twenty hours: it is then washed in water, and the hair is easily detached. Thus rendered clean, it is

tanned by soaking for several days in a mixture of the bark of a mimosa and water; from this it is daily

withdrawn, and stretched out with pegs upon the ground; it is then well scrubbed with a rough stone, and

fresh mimosa bark well bruised, with water, is rubbed in by the friction. About four days are sufficient to tan

the thin skin of a gazelle, which is much valued for its toughness and durability; the aperture at the hind

quarters is sewn together, and the opening of the neck is closed, when required, by tying. A good waterskin

should be porous, to allow the water to exude sufficiently to moisten the exterior: thus the action of the air

upon the exposed surface causes evaporation, and imparts to the water within the skin a delicious coolness.

The Arabs usually prepare their tanned skins with an empyreumatical oil made from a variety of substances,

the best of which is that from the sesame grain; this has a powerful smell, and renders the water so

disagreeable that few Europeans could drink it. This oil is black, and much resembles tar in appearance; it has

the effect of preserving the leather, and of rendering it perfectly watertight. In desert travelling each person

should have his own private waterskin slung upon his dromedary; for this purpose none are so good as a

On the 23d June we were nearly suffocated by a whirlwind that buried everything within the tents several

inches in dust; the heat was intense; as usual the sky was spotless, but the simoom was more overpowering

than I had yet experienced. I accordingly took my rifle and went down to the pool, as any movement, even in

the burning sun, was preferable to inaction in that sultry heat and dust. The crocodiles had dragged the

skeletons of the hippopotami into the water; several huge heads appeared and then vanished from the surface,

and the ribs of the carcase that projected, trembled and jerked as the jaws of the crocodiles were at work

beneath. I shot one of very large size through the head, but it sank to the bottom; I expected to find it on the

following morning floating upon the surface when the gas should have distended the body.

I also shot a large single bull hippopotamus late in the evening, which was alone at the extremity of the pool;

he sank at the forehead shot, and, as he never rose again, I concluded that he was dead, and that I should find

him on the morrow with the crocodile. Tired with the heat, I trudged homeward over the hot and fatiguing

The cool night arrived, and at about halfpast eight I was lying half asleep upon my bed by the margin of the

river, when I fancied that I heard a rumbling like distant thunder: I had not heard such a sound for months,

but a low uninterrupted roll appeared to increase in volume, although far distant. Hardly had I raised my head

to listen more attentively when a confusion of voices arose from the Arabs' camp, with a sound of many feet,

and in a few minutes they rushed into my camp, shouting to my men in the darkness, "El Bahr! El Bahr!" (the

We were up in an instant, and my interpreter, Mahomet, in a state of intense confusion, explained that the

river was coming down, and that the supposed distant thunder was the roar of approaching water.

Many of the people were asleep on the clean sand on the river's bed; these were quickly awakened by the

Arabs, who rushed down the steep bank to save the skulls of my two hippopotami that were exposed to dry.

Hardly had they descended, when the sound of the river in the darkness beneath told us that the water had

arrived, and the men, dripping with wet, had just sufficient time to drag their heavy burdens up the bank.

All was darkness and confusion; everybody was talking and no one listening; but the great event had occurred

the river had arrived "like a thief in the night." On the morning of the 24th June, I stood on the banks of the

noble Atbara river, at the break of day. The wonder of the desert!yesterday there was a barren sheet of

glaring sand, with a fringe of withered bush and trees upon its borders, that cut the yellow expanse of desert.

For days we had journeyed along the exhausted bed: all Nature, even in Nature's poverty, was most poor: no

bush could boast a leaf: no tree could throw a shade: crisp gums crackled upon the stems of the mimosas, the

sap dried upon the burst bark, sprung with the withering heat of the simoom. In one night there was a

mysterious changewonders of the mighty Nile!an army of water was hastening to the wasted river: there

was no drop of rain, no thundercloud on the horizon to give hope, all had been dry and sultry; dust and

desolation yesterday, today a magnificent stream, some 500 yards in width and from fifteen to twenty feet in

depth, flowed through the dreary desert! Bamboos and reeds, with trash of all kinds, were hurried along the

muddy waters. Where were all the crowded inhabitants of the pool? The prison doors were broken, the

The 24th June, 1861, was a memorable day. Although this was actually the beginning of my work, I felt that

by the experience of this night I had obtained a clue to one portion of the Nile mystery, and that, as "coming

events cast their shadows before them," this sudden creation of a river was but the shadow of the great cause.

One of my Turks, Hadji Achmet, was ill; therefore, although I longed to travel, it was necessary to wait. I

extract verbatim from my journal, 26th June:"The river has still risen; the weather is cooler, and the

withered trees and bushes are giving signs of bursting into leaf. This season may be termed the spring of this

country. The frightful simoom of April, May, and June, burns everything as though parched by fire, and not

even a withered leaf hangs to a bough, but the trees wear a wintry appearance in the midst of intense heat.

The wild geese have paired, the birds are building their nests, and, although not even a drop of dew has

fallen, all Nature seems to be aware of an approaching change, as the south wind blowing cool from the wet

quarter is the harbinger of rain. Already some of the mimosas begin to afford a shade, under which the

gazelles may be surely found at midday; the does are now in fawn, and the young will be dropped when this

"Busy, packing for a start tomorrow; I send Hadji Velli back to Berber in charge of the two hippos' heads to

the care of the good old Halleem Effendi. No time for shooting today. I took out all the hippos' teeth, of

which he possesses 40, 1010, 1010 six tusks and fourteen molars in each jaw. The bones of the

THE journey along the margin of the Atbara was similar to the entire route from Berber, a vast desert, with

the narrow band of trees that marked the course of the river; the only change was the magical growth of the

leaves, which burst hourly from the swollen buds of the mimosas: this could be accounted for by the sudden

arrival of the river, as the water percolated rapidly through the sand and nourished the famishing roots.

The tracks of wild asses had been frequent, but hitherto I had not seen the animals, as their drinkinghour

was at night, after which they travelled far into the desert: however, on the morning of the 29th June, shortly

after the start at about 6 A.M., we perceived three of these beautiful creatures on our leftan ass, a female,

and a foal. They were about half a mile distant when first observed, and upon our approach to within half that

distance they halted and faced about; they were evidently on their return to the desert from the river. Those

who have seen donkeys in their civilized state have no conception of the beauty of the wild and original

animal. Far from the passive and subdued appearance of the English ass, the animal in its native desert is the

perfection of activity and courage; there is a highbred tone in the deportment, a highactioned step when it

trots freely over the rocks and sand, with the speed of a horse when it gallops over the boundless desert. No

animal is more difficult of approach; and, although they are frequently captured by the Arabs, those taken are

invariably the foals, which are ridden down by fast dromedaries, while the mothers escape. The colour of the

wild ass is a reddish cream tinged with the shade most prevalent of the ground that it inhabits; thus it much

resembles the sand of the desert. I wished to obtain a specimen, and accordingly I exerted my utmost

knowledge of stalking to obtain a shot at the male. After at least an hour and a half I succeeded in obtaining a

long shot with a single rifle, which passed through the shoulder, and I secured my first and last donkey. It was

with extreme regret that I saw my beautiful prize in the last gasp, and I resolved never to fire another shot at

one of its race. This fine specimen was in excellent condition, although the miserable pasturage of the desert

is confined to the wiry herbage already mentioned; of this the stomach was full, chewed into morsels like

chopped reeds. The height of this male ass was about 13.3 or 14 hands; the shoulder was far more sloping

than that of the domestic ass, the hoofs were remarkable for their size; they were wide, firm, and as broad as

those of a horse of 15 hands. I skinned this animal carefully, and the Arabs divided the flesh among them,

while Hadji Achmet selected a choice piece for our own dinner. At the close of our march that evening, the

morsel of wild ass was cooked in the form of "rissoles:" the flavour resembled beef but it was extremely

On the following day, 30th June, we reached Gozerajup, a large permanent village on the south bank of the

river. By dead reckoning we had marched 246 miles from Berber. This spot was therefore about 220 miles

from the junction of the Atbara with the Nile. Here we remained for a few days to rest the donkeys and to

engage fresh camels. An extract from my journal will give a general idea of this miserable country:

"July 3.I went out early to get something for breakfast, and shot a hare and seven pigeons. On my return to

camp, an Arab immediately skinned the hare, and pulling out the liver, lungs, and kidneys, he ate them raw

and bloody. The Arabs invariably eat the lungs, liver, kidneys, and the thorax of sheep, gazelles, while they

are engaged in skinning the beasts, after which they crack the leg bones between stones, and suck out the raw

A Bishareen Arab wears his hair in hundreds of minute plaits which hang down to his shoulders, surmounted

by a circular bushy topknot upon the crown, about the size of a large breakfastcup, from the base of which

the plaits descend. When in full dress, the plaits are carefully combed out with an ivory skewer about

eighteen inches in length; after this operation, the head appears like a huge black mop surmounted by a fellow

mop of a small size. Through this mass of hair he carries his skewer, which is generally ornamented, and

The men have remarkably fine features, but the women are not generally pretty. The Bishareen is the largest

Arab tribe of Nubia. Like all the Arabs of Upper Egypt, they pay taxes to the Viceroy; these are gathered by

parties of soldiers, who take the opportunity of visiting them during the drought, at which time they can be

certainly found near the river; but at any other season it would be as easy to collect tribute from the gazelles

of the desert as from the wandering Bishareens. The appearance of Turkish soldiers is anything but agreeable

to the Arabs; therefore my escort of Turks was generally received with the "cold shoulder" upon our arrival at

an Arab camp, and no supplies were forthcoming in the shape of milk, until the long coorbatch

(hippopotamus whip) of Hadji Achmet had cracked several times across the shoulders of the village

headman. At first this appeared to me extremely brutal, but I was given to understand that I was utterly

ignorant of the Arab character, and that he knew best. I found by experience that Hadji Achmet was correct;

even where milk was abundant, the Arabs invariably declared that they had not a drop, that the goats were

dry, or had strayed away; and some paltry excuses were offered until the temper of the Turk became

exhausted, and the coorbatch assisted in the argument. A magician's rod could not have produced a greater

miracle than the hippopotamus whip. The goats were no longer dry, and in a few minutes large gourds of

milk were brought, and liberally paid for, while I was ridiculed by the Turk, Hadji Achmet, for so foolishly

Our route was to change. We had hitherto followed the course of the Atbara, but we were now to leave that

river on our right, while we should travel S.E. about ninety miles to Cassala, the capital of the Taka country,

on the confines of Abyssinia, the great depot upon that frontier for Egyptian troops, military stores,

Having procured fresh camels, we started on 5th July. This portion of the desert was rich in agates and

numerous specimens of bloodstone. Exactly opposite the village of Gozerajup are curious natural

landmarks,four pyramidical hills of granite that can be seen for many miles' distance in this perfectly level

country. One of these hills is about 500 feet high, and is composed entirely of flaked blocks of grey granite

piled one upon the other; some of these stand perpendicularly in single masses from 30 to 50 feet high, and

from a distance might be taken for giants climbing the hillside. The pinnacle has a peculiar conical cap,

which appears to have been placed there by design, but upon closer inspection it is found to be natural, as no

For the first two hours' march from this landmark, the country was covered with scrubby bush abounding in

gazelles and guineafowl. Here, for the first time, I saw the secretary bird, known to the Arabs as the "Devil's

horse." A pair of these magnificent birds were actively employed in their useful avocation of hunting reptiles,

which they chased with wonderful speed. Great numbers of wild asses passed us during the march towards

evening; they were on their way from the desert to the Atbara river, some miles distant upon the west.

Veritable thunder we now heard for the first time in Africa, and a cloud rose with great rapidity from the

horizon. A cloud was a wonder that we had not enjoyed for months, but as this increased both in size and

density, accompanied by a gust of cool wind, we were led to expect a still greater wonderRAIN! Hardly

had we halted for the night, when down it came in torrents, accompanied by a heavy thunderstorm. On the

following morning, we experienced the disadvantage of rain; the ground was so slippery that the camels

could not march, and we were obliged to defer our start until the sun had dried the surface.

We had now arrived at the most interesting point to an explorer. From Cairo to within a few miles south of

Gozerajup stretched the unbroken desert through which we had toiled from Korosko, and which had so firmly

impressed its dreariness upon the mind that nothing but desert had been expected: we had learned to be

content in a world of hot sand, rocks, and pebbles; but we had arrived upon the limit; the curious landmark of

Gozerajup was an everlasting beacon that marked the frontier of the Nubian desert; it was a giant warder, that

seemed to guard the living south from the dreadful skeleton of nature on the north; the desert had ceased!

It was a curious and happy coincidence that onr arrival upon the limits of the desert should have been

celebrated by the first shower of rain: we no longer travelled upon sand and stones, but we stood upon a

fertile loam, rendered soapy and adhesive by the recent shower. The country was utterly barren at that season,

as the extreme heat of the sun and simoom destroys all vegetation so thoroughly that it becomes as crisp as

glass; the dried grass breaks in the wind, and is carried away in dust, leaving the earth so utterly naked and

In the rainy season, the whole of this country, from the south to Gozerajup, is covered with excellent

pasturage, and, far from resembling a desert, it becomes a mass of bright green herbage. The Arabs and their

flocks are driven from the south by the flies and by the heavy rains, and Gozerajup offers a paradise to both

men and beasts; thousands of camels with their young, hundreds of thousands of goats, sheep, and cattle, are

accompanied by the Arabs and their families, who encamp on the happy pastures during the season of plenty.

We had now passed the hunts occupied by the Bishareens, and we had entered upon the country of the

Hadendowa Arabs. These are an exceedingly bad tribe, and, together with their neighbours, the Hallonga

Arabs, they fought determinedly against the Egyptians, until finally conquered during the reign of the famous

Mehemet Ala Pasha, when the provinces of Nubia submitted unconditionally, and became a portion of Upper

Upon arrival at Soojalup we came upon the principal encampment of the Hadendowa during the dry season.

Within a few miles of this spot the scene had changed: instead of the bare earth denuded of vegetation, the

country was covered with jungle, already nearly green, while the vast plains of grass, enlivened by beautiful

herds of antelopes, proved not only the fertility of the soil, but the presence of moisture. Although there was

no stream, nor any appearance of a river's bed, Soojalup was well supplied with water throughout the hottest

season by numerous wells. This spot is about forty miles distant from Gozerajup, and is the first

wateringplace upon the route to Cassala. As we approached the wells, we passed several large villages

surrounded by fenced gardens of cotton, and tobacco, both of which throve exceedingly. Every village

possessed a series of wells, with a simple contrivance for watering their cattle:Adjoining the mouth of each

well was a basin formed of clay, raised sufficiently high above the level of the ground to prevent the animals

from treading it while drinking. With a rope and a leathern bag distended by pieces of stick, the water was

raised from the wells and emptied into the clay basins; the latter were circular, about nine feet in diameter,

and two feet deep. I measured the depth of some of the wells, and found a uniformity of forty feet. We halted

at Soojalup for the night: here for the first time I saw the beautiful antelope known by the Arabs as the Ariel

(Gazelle Dama). This is a species of gazelle, being similar in form and in shape of the horns, but as large as a

fallow deer: the colour also nearly resembles that of the gazelle, with the exception of the rump, which is

These animals had no water nearer than the Atbara river, unless they could obtain a stealthy supply from the

cattle basins of the Arabs during the night; they were so wild, from being constantly disturbed and hunted by

the Arab dogs, that I found it impossible to stalk them upon the evening of our arrival. The jungles literally

swarmed with guineafowlI shot nine in a few minutes, and returned to camp with dinner for my whole

party. The only species of guineafowl that I have seen in Africa is that with the blue comb and wattles.

These birds are a blessing to the traveller, as not only are they generally to be met with from the desert

frontier throughout the fertile portions of the south, but they are extremely good eating, and far superior to the

domestic guineafowl of Europe. In this spot, Soojalup, I could have killed any number, had I wished to

expend my shot: but this most necessary ammunition required much nursing during a long exploration. I had

a good supply, four hundredweight of the most useful sizes, No. 6 for general shooting, and B B. for geese,

also a bag of No. 10, for firing into dense flocks of small birds. On the following morning we left Soojalup;

for several miles on our route were Arab camps and wells, with immense herds of goats, sheep, and cattle.

Antelopes were very numerous, and it was exceedingly interesting to observe the new varieties as we

increased our distance from the north. I shot two from my camel (G. Dorcas); they were about the size of a

fine roebuck;the horns were like those of the gazelle, but the animals were larger and darker in colour,

with a distinguishing mark in a jet black stripe longitudinally dividing the white of the belly from the reddish

colour of the flank. These antelopes were exceedingly wild, and without the aid of a camel it would have

been impossible to approach them. I had exchanged my donkey for Hadji Achmet's dromedary; thus

mounted, I could generally succeed in stalking to within ninety or a hundred yards, by allowing the animal to

feed upon the various bushes, as though I had mounted it for the purpose of leading it to graze. This deceived

the antelopes, and by carefully ascertaining the correct wind, I obtained several shots, some of which failed,

owing to the unsteadiness of my steed, which had a strong objection to the rifle.

The entire country from Gozerajup to Cassala is a dead flat, upon which there is not one tree sufficiently

large to shade a fullsized tent: there is no real timber in the country, but the vast level extent of soil is a

series of open plains and low bush of thorny mimosa: there is no drainage upon this perfect level; thus, during

the rainy season, the soakage actually melts the soil, and forms deep holes throughout the country, which then

becomes an impracticable slough, bearing grass and jungle. Upon this fertile tract of land, cotton might be

cultivated to a large extent, and sent to Berber, via Atbara, from Gozerajup, during the season of flood. At the

present time, the growth is restricted to the supply required by the Arabs for the manufacture of their cloths.

These are woven by themselves, the weaver sitting in a hole excavated in the ground before his rude loom,

shaded by a rough thatch about ten feet square, supported upon poles. There is a uniformity in dress

throughout all the Nubian tribes of Arabs, the simple toga of the Romans this is worn in many ways, as

occasion may suggest, very similar to the Scotch plaid. The quality of cotton produced is the same as that of

Lower Egypt, and the cloths manufactured by the Arabs, although coarse, are remarkably soft. The toga or

tope is generally ornamented with a few red stripes at either extremity, and is terminated by a fringe.

As we approached within about twentyfive miles o Cassala, I remarked that the country on our left was in

many places flooded; the Arabs, who had hitherto been encamped in this neighbourhood during the dry

season, were migrating to other localities in the neighbourhood of Soojalup and Gozerajup, with their vast

herds of camels and goats. As rain had not fallen in sufficient quantity to account for the flood, I was

informed that it was due to the river Gash, or Mareb, which, flowing from Abyssinia, passed beneath the

walls of Cassala, and then divided into innumerable ramifications; it was eventually lost, and disappeared in

the porous soil, after having flooded a large extent of country. This cause accounted for the neverfailing

wells of Soojalupdoubtless a substratum of clay prevented the total escape of the water, which remained at

a depth of forty feet from the surface. The large tract of country thus annually flooded by the river Gash is

rendered extremely fruitful, and is the resort of both the Hadendowa and the Hallonga Arabs during the dry

season, who cultivate large quantities of dhurra, and other grain. Unfortunately, in these climates, fertility of

soil is generally combined with unhealthiness, and the commencement of the rainy season is the signal for

fevers and other maladies. No sooner had we arrived in the flooded country than my wife was seized with a

sudden and severe attack, which necessitated a halt upon the march, as she could no longer sit upon her

camel. In the evening, several hundreds of Arabs arrived, and encamped around our fire. It was shortly after

sunset, and it was interesting to watch the extreme rapidity with which these swarthy sons of the desert

pitched their campa hundred fires were quickly blazing; the women prepared the food, children sat in

clusters round the blaze, as all were wet from paddling through the puddled ground, from which they were

No sooner was the bustle of arrangement completed, than a grey old man stepped forward, and, responding to

his call, every man of the hundreds present formed in line, three or four deep. At once there was total silence,

disturbed only by the crackling of the fires, or by the cry of a child; and with faces turned to the east, in

attitudes of profound devotion, the wild but fervent followers of Mahomet repeated their evening prayer.

The flickering red light of the fires illumined the bronze faces of the congregation, and as I stood before the

front line of devotees, I took off my cap in respect for their faith, and at the close of their prayer I made my

salaam to their venerable Faky (priest); he returned the salutation with the cold dignity of an Arab. In this part

the coorbatch of the Turk was unnecessary, and we shortly obtained supplies of milk. I ordered the dragoman

Mahomet to inform the Faky that I was a doctor, and that I had the best medicines at the service of the sick,

with advice gratis. In a short time I had many applicants, to whom I served out a quantity of Holloway's pills.

These are most useful to an explorer, as, possessing unmistakeable purgative properties, they create an

undeniable effect upon the patient, which satisfies him of their value. They are also extremely convenient, as

they may be carried by the pound in a tin box, and served out in infinitesimal doses from one to ten at a time,

according to the age of the patients. I had a large medicine chest, with all necessary drugs, but I was sorely

troubled by the Arab women, many of whom were barren, who insisted upon my supplying them with some

medicine that would remove this stigma and render them fruitful. It was in vain to deny them; I therefore

gave them usually a small dose of ipecacuanha, with the comforting word to an Arab, "Inshallah," "if it please

On the following morning, during the march, my wife had a renewal of fever. We had already passed a large

village named Abre, and the country was a forest of small trees, which, being in leaf, threw a delicious shade.

Under a tree, upon a comfortable bed of dry sand, we wer obliged to lay her for several hours, until the

paroxysm passed, and she could remount her dromedary. This she did with extreme difficulty, and we hurried

For the last fifty or sixty miles we had seen the Cassala mountainat first a blue speck above the horizon. It

now rose in all the beauty of a smooth and bare block of granite, about 3,500 feet above the level of the

country with the town of Cassala at the base, and the roaring torrent Gash flowing at our feet. When we

reached the end of the day's march, it was between 5 and 6 P.M. The walled town was almost washed by the

river, which was at least 500 yards wide. However, our guides assured us that it was fordable, although

dangerous on account of the strength of the current. Camels are most stupid and nervous animals in water;

that ridden by my wife was fortunately better than the generality. I sent two Arabs with poles, ahead of my

camel, and carefully led the way. After considerable difficulty, we forded the river safely; the water was

nowhere above four feet deep, and, in most places, it did not exceed three; but the great rapidity of the stream

would have rendered it impossible for the me to cross without the assistance of poles. One of our camels lost

its footing, and was carried helplessly down the river for some hundred yards, until it stranded upon a bank.

The sun had sunk when we entered Cassala. It is a walled town, surrounded by a ditch and flanking towers,

and containing about 8,000 inhabitants, exclusive of troops. The houses and walls were of unburnt brick,

smeared with clay and cowdung. As we rode through the dusty streets, I sent off Mahomet with my firman

to the Mudir; and, not finding a suitable place inside the town, I returned outside the walls, where I ordered

the tents to be pitched in a convenient spot among some wild figtrees. Hardly were the tents pitched than

Mahomet returned, accompanied by an officer and ten soldiers as a guard, with a polite message from the

Mudir or governor, who had, as usual, kissed the potent firman, and raised it to his forehead, with the

declaration that he was "my servant, and that all that I required should be immediately attended to." Shortly

after, we were called upon by several Greeks, one of whom was the army doctor, Signor Georgis, who, with

great kindness, offered to supply all our wants. My wife was dreadfully weak and exhausted, therefore an

undisturbed night's rest was all that was required, with the independence of our own tent.

Cassala is rich in hyaenas, and the night was passed in the discordant howling of these disgusting but useful

animals: they are the scavengers of the country, devouring every species of filth, and clearing all carrion from

the earth. Without the hyaenas and vultures, the neighbourhood of a Nubian village would be unbearable; it is

the idle custom of the people to leave unburied all animals that die. Thus, among the numerous flocks and

herds, the casualties would create a pestilence were it not for the birds and beasts of prey.

On the following morning the fever had yielded to quinine, and we were enabled to receive a round of

visitsthe governor and suite, Elias Bey, the doctor and a friend, and, lastly, Malem Georgis, an elderly

Greek merchant, who, with great hospitality, insisted upon our quitting the sultry tent and sharing his own

roof. We therefore became his guests in a most comfortable house for some days. Our Turk, Hadji Achmet,

returned on his way to Berber; we discharged our camels, and prepared to start afresh from this point for

BY dead reckoning, Cassala is ninetythree miles S.S.E. of Gozerajup, or about 340 miles from Berber. We

had ridden about 710 miles from Korosko, 630 miles of which had been through scorching deserts during the

hottest season. We were, therefore, thankful to exchange the intense heat of the tent for a solid roof, and to

The direct route to Cassala, the capital of Taka, should be from Suez to Souakim, on the Red Sea, and from

thence in sixteen days, by camel. Thus, were there a line from Suez to Souakim by steamers, similar to that

already established to Jedda, Cassala would be only twentytwo days' journey from Cairo. At present, the

arrival of steamers at Souakim is entirely uncertain; therefore the trade of the country is paralysed by the

apathy of the Egyptian Government. The Abdul Azziz Company run their steamers regularly from Suez to

Jedda; and, although they advertise Souakim as a port of call, there is no dependence to be placed upon the

announcement; therefore, all merchants are afraid not only of delay, but of high warehouse charges at

Souakim. The latter port is only four days' steaming from Suez, and, being the most central depot for all

merchandise both to and from Upper Egypt, it would become a point of great importance were regular means

Cotton of excellent quality may be grown to an unlimited amount in the provinces of Upper Egypt, and could

be delivered at Souakim at a trifling cost of transport. A large quantity of gum arabic is collected throughout

this country, which sells in Cassala at 20 piastres (4s. 2d.) the cantar of 100 lbs. There are three varieties,

produced from various mimosas; the finest quality is gathered in the province of Kordofan, but I subsequently

met with large quantities of this species in the Base country. Senna grows wild in the deserts, but the low

price hardly pays for the cost of collection. There are several varieties; that with extremely narrow and

sharppointed leaves is preferred. It grows in sandy situations where few plants would exist. The bush

seldom exceeds three feet in height, and is generally below that standard; but it is exceedingly thick, and rich

in a pale green foliage, which is a strong temptation to the hungry camel. Curiously, this purgative plant is the

The exports of the Soudan are limited to gum arabic, ivory, hides, senna, and bees'wax; the latter is the

produce of Abyssinia. These articles are generally collected by travelling native traders, who sell to the larger

merchants resident in Cassala and Khartoum, the two principal towns of the Soudan. The bazaar in Cassala

was poor, as the principal articles were those of low price, adapted to the wants of the Arabs, who flock to the

capital as a small London, to make their purchases of cloths, perfumery for the women, copper cooking pots,

The fortifications of the town, although useless against cannon, are considered by the Arabs as impregnable.

The walls are of solid mud and sunbaked bricks, carefully loopholed for musketry, while a deep fosse, by

These engineering precautions were rendered necessary by the ferocity of the Arabs, who fought the

Egyptians with great determination for some years before they were finally subdued. Although the weapons

of all the Arab tribes are the simple sword and lance, they defended their country against the regular troops of

Egypt until they were completely defeated by a scarcity of water, against which there could be no resistance.

The Egyptians turned the course of the river Gash, and entirely shut off the supply from one portion of the

country, while they inundated another. This was effected by an immense dam, formed of the stems of the

dome palms, as a double row of piles, while the interior was rendered watertight by a lining of matting filled

Cassala was built about twenty years before I visited the country, after Taka had been conquered and annexed

to Egypt. The general annexation of the Soudan and the submission of the numerous Arab tribes to the

Viceroy have been the first steps necessary to the improvement of the country. Although the Egyptians are

hard masters, and do not trouble themselves about the future wellbeing of the conquered races, it must be

remembered that, prior to the annexation, all the tribes were at war among themselves. There was neither

government nor law; thus the whole country was closed to Europeans. At present, there is no more danger in

travelling in Upper Egypt than in crossing Hyde Park after dark, provided the traveller be just and courteous.

At the time of my visit to Cassala in 1861, the Arab tribes were separately governed by their own chiefs or

sheiks, who were responsible to the Egyptian authorities for the taxes due from their people: since that period,

the entire tribes of all denominations have been placed under the authority of that grand old Arab patriarch

Achmet Abou Sinn, to be hereafter mentioned. The Sheik Moosa, of the Hadendowa tribe, was in prison

during our stay in that country, for some breach of discipline in his dealings with the Egyptian Government.

The iron hand of despotism has produced a marvellous change among the Arabs, who are rendered utterly

powerless by the system of government adopted by the Egyptians; unfortunately, this harsh system has the

The principal object of Turks and Egyptians in annexation, is to increase their power of taxation by gaining

an additional number of subjects. Thus, although many advantages have accrued to the Arab provinces of

Nubia through Egyptian rule, there exists an amount of mistrust between the governed and the governing. Not

only are the camels, cattle, and sheep subjected to a tax, but every attempt at cultivation is thwarted by the

authorities, who impose a fine or tax upon the superficia1 area of the cultivated land. Thus, no one will

cultivate more than is absolutely necessary, as he dreads the difficulties that the broad acres of waving crops

would entail upon his family. The bona fide tax is a bagatelle to the amounts squeezed from him by the

extortionate soldiery, who are the agents employed by the sheik; these must have their share of the plunder, in

excess of the amount to be delivered to their employer; he, also, must have his plunder before he parts with

the bags of dollars to the governor of the province. Thus the unfortunate cultivator is ground down; should he

refuse to pay the necessary "baksheesh" or present to the taxcollectors, some false charge is trumped up

against him, and he is thrown into prison. As a green field is an attraction to a flight of locusts in their

desolating voyage, so is a luxuriant farm in the Soudan a point for the taxcollectors of Upper Egypt. I have

frequently ridden several days' journey through a succession of empty villages, deserted by the inhabitants

upon the report of the soldiers' approach; the women and children, goats and cattle, camels and asses, have all

been removed into the wilderness for refuge, while their crops of corn have been left standing for the

Notwithstanding the misrule that fetters the steps of improvement, Nature has bestowed such great

capabilities of production in the fertile soil of this country, that the yield of a small surface is more than

sufficient for the requirements of the population, and actual poverty is unknown. The average price of dhurra

is fifteen piastres per "rachel," or about 3s. 2d. for 500 lbs. upon the spot where it is grown. The dhurra

(Sorghum andropogon) is the grain most commonly used throughout the Soudan; there are great varieties of

this plant, of which the most common are the white and the red. The land is not only favoured by Nature by

its fertility, but the intense heat of the summer is the labourer's great assistant. As before described, all

vegetation entirely disappears in the glaring Sun, or becomes so dry that it is swept off by fire; thus the soil is

perfectly clean and fit for immediate cultivation upon the arrival of the rains. The tool generally used is

similar to the Dutch hoe. With this simple implement the surface is scratched to the depth of about two

inches, and the seeds of the dhurra are dibbled in about three feet apart, in rows from four to five feet in

width. Two seeds are dropped into each hole. A few days after the first shower they rise above the ground,

and when about six inches high, the whole population turn out of their villages at break of day to weed the

dhurra fields. Sown in July, it is harvested in February and March. Eight months are thus required for the

cultivation of this cereal in the intense heat of Nubia. For the first three months the growth is extremely rapid,

and the stem attains a height of six or seven feet. When at perfection on the rich soil of the Taka country, the

plant averages a height of ten feet, the circumference of the stem being about four inches. The crown is a

feather very similar to that of the sugar cane; the blossom falls, and the feather becomes a head of dhurra,

weighing about two pounds. Each grain is about the size of hempseed. I took the trouble of counting the

corns contained in an averagesized head, the result being 4,848. The process of harvesting and thrashing are

remarkably simple, as the heads are simply detached from the straw and beaten out in piles. The dried straw

is a substitute for sticks in forming the walls of the village huts; these are plastered with clay and cowdung,

The millers' work is exclusively the province of the women. There are no circular handmills, as among

Oriental nations; but the corn is ground upon a simple flat stone, of either gneiss or granite, about two feet in

length by fourteen inches in width. The face of this is roughened by beating with a sharppointed piece of

harder stone, such as quartz, or hornblende, and the grain is reduced to flour by great labour and repeated

grinding or rubbing with a stone rollingpin. The flour is mixed with water and allowed to ferment; it is then

made into thin pancakes upon an earthenware flat portable hearth. This species of leavened bread is known to

the Arabs as the kisra. It is not very palatable, but it is extremely well suited to Arab cookery, as it can be

rolled up like a pancake and dipped in the general dish of meat and gravy very conveniently, in the absence of

spoons and forks. No man will condescend to grind the corn, and even the Arab women have such an

objection to this labour, that one of the conditions of matrimony enforced upon the husband, if possible,

Hitherto we had a large stock of biscuits, but as our dragoman Mahomet had, in a curious fit of amiability,

dispensed them among the cameldrivers, we were now reduced to the Arab kisras. Although not as palatable

as wheaten bread, the flour of dhurra is exceedingly nourishing, containing, according to Professor Johnston's

analysis, eleven and a half per cent. of gluten, or one and a half per cent. more than English wheaten flour.

Thus men and beasts thrive, especially horses, which acquire an excellent condition.

The neighbourhood of Cassala is well adapted for the presence of a large town and military station, as the

fertile soil produces the necessary supplies, while the river Gash affords excellent water. In the rainy season

this should be filtered, as it brings down many impurities from the torrents of Abyssinia, but in the heat of

summer the river is entirely dry, and clear and wholesome water is procured from wells in the sandy bed. The

south and southeast of Cassala is wild and mountainous, affording excellent localities for hill stations during

the unhealthy rainy season; but such sanitary arrangements for the preservation of troops are about as much

heeded by the Egyptian Government as by our own, and regiments are left in unwholesome climates to take

The Taka country being the extreme frontier of Egypt, constant raids are made by the Egyptians upon their

neighboursthe hostile Base, through which country the river Gash or Mareb descends. I was anxious to

procure all the information possible concerning the Base, as it would be necessary to traverse the greater

portion in exploring the Settite river, which is the principal tributary of the Atbara, and which is in fact the

main and parent stream, although bearing a different name. I heard but one opinion of the Baseit was a

wild and independent country, inhabited by a ferocious race, whose hand was against every man, and who in

return were the enemies of all by whom they were surroundedEgyptians, Abyssinians, Arabs, and Mek

Nimmur; nevertheless, secure in their mountainous stronghold, they defied all adversaries. The Base is a

portion of Abyssinia, but the origin of the tribe that occupies this ineradicable hornet's nest is unknown.

Whether they are the remnant of the original Ethiopians, who possessed the country prior to the conquests of

the Abyssinians, or whether they are descended from the woollyhaired tribes of the south banks of the Blue

Nile, is equally a mystery; all we know is that they are of the same type as the inhabitants of Fazogle, of the

upper portion of the Blue River; they are exceedingly black, with woolly hair, resembling in that respect the

negro, but without the flat nose or prognathous jaw. No quarter is given on either side, should the Base meet

the Arabs, with whom war is to the knife. In spite of the overwhelming superiority of their adversaries, the

Base cannot be positively subdued; armed with the lance as their only weapon, but depending upon extreme

agility and the natural difficulties of their mountain passes, the attack of the Base is always by stealth; their

spies are ever prowling about unseen like the leopard, and their onset is invariably a surprise; success or

As there is nothing to be obtained by the plunder of the Base but women and children as slaves, the country is

generally avoided, unless visited for the express purpose of a slave razzia. Cultivation being extremely

limited, the greater portion of the country is perfectly wild, and is never visited even by the Base themselves

unless for the purpose of hunting. Several beautiful rivers descend from the mountain ranges, which

ultimately flow into the Atbara; these, unlike the latter river, are never dry: thus, with a constant supply of

water, in a country of forest and herbage, the Base abounds in elephants, rhinoceroses, hippopotami, giraffes,

Cassala, thus situated on the confines of the Taka country, is an important military point in the event of war

between Egypt and Abyssinia, as the Base would be invaluable as allies to the Egyptians; their country

commands the very heart of Abyssinia, and their knowledge of the roads would be an incalculable advantage

to an invading force. On the 14th July I had concluded my arrangements for the start; there had been some

difficulty in procuring camels, but the allpowerful firman was a neverfailing talisman, and, as the Arabs

had declined to let their animals for hire, the Governor despatched a number of soldiers and seized the

required number, including their owners. I engaged two wild young Arabs of eighteen and twenty years of

age, named Bacheet and Wat Gamma: the latter being interpreted signifies "Son of the Moon." This in no

way suggests lunacy, but the young Arab had happened to enter this world on the day of the new moon,

which was considered to be a particularly fortunate and brilliant omen at his birth. Whether the climax of his

good fortune had arrived at the moment he entered my service I know not, but, if so, there was a cloud over

his happiness in his subjection to Mahomet the dragoman, who rejoiced in the opportunity of bullying the two

inferiors. Wat Gamma was a quiet, steady, wellconducted lad, who bore oppression mildly; but the younger,

Bacheet, was a fiery, wild young Arab, who, although an excellent boy in his peculiar way, was almost

incapable of being tamed and domesticated. I at once perceived that Mahomet would have a determined rebel

to control, which I confess I did not regret. Wages were not high in this part of the world,the lads were

engaged at one and a half dollar per month and their keep. Mahomet, who was a great man, suffered from the

same complaint to which great men are (in those countries) particularly subject: wherever he went, he was

attacked with claimants of relationship; he was overwhelmed with professions of friendship from people who

claimed to be connexions of some of his family; in fact, if all the ramifications of his race were correctly

represented by the claimants of relationship, Mahomet's family tree would have shaded the Nubian desert.

We all have our foibles: the strongest fort has its feeble point, as the chain snaps at its weakest link;family

pride was Mahomet's weak link. This was his tender point; and Mahomet, the great and the imperious,

yielded to the gentle scratching of his ear if a stranger claimed connexion with his ancient lineage. Of course

he had no family, with the exception of his wife and two children, whom he had left in Cairo. The lady whom

he had honoured by an admission to the domestic circle of the Mahomets was suffering from a broken arm

when we started from Egypt, as she had cooked the dinner badly, and the "gaddah," or large wooden bowl,

had been thrown at her by the naturally indignant husband, precisely as he had thrown the axe at one man and

the basin at another, while in our service: these were little contretemps that could hardly disturb the dignity of

so great a man. Mahomet met several relations at Cassala: one borrowed money of him; another stole his

pipe; the third, who declared that nothing should separate them now that "by the blessing of God" they had

met, determined to accompany him through all the difficulties of our expedition, provided that Mahomet

would only permit him to serve for love, without wages. I gave Mahomet some little advice upon this point,

reminding him that, although the clothes of the party were only worth a few piastres, the spoons and forks

were silver, therefore I should hold him responsible for the honesty of his friend. This reflection upon the

family gave great offence, and he assured me that Achmet, our quondam acquaintance, was so near a relation

that he wasI assisted him in the genealogical distinction: "Mother's brother's cousin's sister's mother's son?

Eh, Mahomet?" "Yes, sar, that's it!" "Very well, Mahomet; mind he don't steal the spoons, and thrash him if

he doesn't do his work!" "Yes, sar," replied Mahomet; "he all same like one brother, he one good man will do

his business quietly; if not, master lick him." The new relation not understanding English, was perfectly

satisfied with the success of his introduction, and from that moment he became one of the party. One more

addition, and our arrangements were completed: the Governor of Cassala was determined that we should

not start without a representative of the Government, in the shape of a soldier guide; he accordingly gave us a

black man, a corporal in one of the Nubian regiments, who was so renowned as a sportsman that he went by

the name of "El Baggar" (the cow), on account of his having killed several of the oryx antelope, known as "El

The rains had fairly commenced, as a heavy thundershower generally fell at about 2 P.M. On the 15th, the

entire day was passed in transporting our baggage across the river Gash to the point from which we had

started upon our arrival at Cassala: this we accomplished with much difficulty, with the assistance of about a

hundred men supplied by the Governor, from whom we had received much attention and politeness. We

camped for the night upon the margin of the river, and marched on the following morning at daybreak due

The country was a great improvement upon that we had hitherto passed; the trees were larger, and vast plains

of young grass, interspersed with green bush, stretched to the horizon. The soil was an exceedingly rich loam,

most tenacious when wetted: far as the eye could reach to the north and west of Cassala was the dead level

We had not proceeded many miles, when the numerous tracks of antelopes upon the soil, moistened by the

shower of yesterday, proved that we had arrived in a sporting country; shortly after, we saw a herd of about

fifty ariels (Gazelle Dama). To stalk these wary antelopes I was obliged to separate from my party, who

continued on their direct route. Riding upon my camel, I tried every conceivable dodge without success. I

could not approach them nearer than about 300 yards. They did not gallop off at once, but made a rush for a

few hundred paces, and then faced about to gaze at the approaching camel. After having exhausted my

patience to no purpose, I tried another plan: instead of advancing against the wind as before, I made a great

circuit and gave them the wind. No sooner was I in good cover behind a mimosa bush than I dismounted from

my camel, and, leading it until within view of the shy herd, I tied it to a tree, keeping behind the animal so as

to be well concealed. I succeeded in retreating through the bushes unobserved, leaving the camel as a gazing

point to attract their attention. Running at my best speed to the same point from which I had commenced my

circuit, and keeping under cover of the scattered bushes, I thus obtained the correct wind, and stalked up from

bush to bush behind the herd, who were curiously watching the tied camel, that was quietly gazing on a

mimosa. In this way I had succeeded in getting within 150 yards of the beautiful herd, when a sudden fright

seized them, and they rushed off in an opposite direction to the camel, so as to pass about 120 yards on my

left; as they came by in full speed, I singled out a superb animal, and tried the first barrel of the little Fletcher

rifle. I heard the crack of the ball, and almost immediately afterwards the herd passed on, leaving one lagging

behind at a slow canter; this was my wounded ariel, who shortly halted, and laid down in an open glade.

Having no dog, I took the greatest precaution in stalking, as a wounded antelope is almost certain to escape if

once disturbed when it has lain down. There was a small withered stem of a tree not thicker than a man's

thigh; this grew within thirty yards of the antelope; my only chance of approach was to take a line direct for

this slight object of cover. The wind was favourable, and I crept along the ground. I had succeeded in arriving

within a few yards of the tree when up jumped the antelope, and bounded off as though unhurt; but there was

no chance for it at this distance, and I rolled it over with a shot through the spine.

Having done the needful with my beautiful prize, and extracted the interior, I returned for my camel that had

well assisted in the stalk. Hardly had I led the animal to the body of the ariel, when I heard a rushing sound

like a strong wind, and down came a vulture with its wings collapsed, falling from an immense height direct

to its prey, in its eagerness to be the first in the race. By the time that I had fastened the ariel across the back

of the camel, many vultures were sitting upon the ground at a few yards' distance, while others were arriving

every minute: before I had shot the ariel, not a vulture had been in sight; the instant that I retreated from the

In the constant doubling necessary during the stalk I had quite lost my way. The level plain to the horizon,

covered with scattered mimosas, offered no object as a guide. I was exceedingly thirsty, as the heat was

intense, and I had been taking rapid exercise; unfortunately my waterskin was slung upon my wife's camel.

However unpleasant the situation, my pocket compass would give me the direction, as we had been steering

due west; therefore, as I had turned to my left when I left my party, a course N.W. should bring me across

their tracks, if they had continued on their route. The position of the Cassala mountain agreed with this

course; therefore, remounting my dromedary, with the ariel slung behind the saddle, I hastened to rejoin our

caravan. After about half an hour I heard a shot fired not far in advance, and I shortly joined the party, who

had fired a gun to give me the direction. A long and deep pull at the waterskin was the first salutation.

We halted that night near a small pond formed by the recent heavy rain. Fortunately the sky was clear; there

was abundance of fuel, and pots were shortly boiling an excellent stew of ariel venison and burnt onions. The

latter delicious bulbs are the blessing of Upper Egypt: I have lived for days upon nothing but raw onions and

sundried rusks. Nothing is so good a substitute for meat as an onion; but if raw, it should be cut into thin

slices, and allowed to soak for half an hour in water, which should be poured off: the onion thus loses its

pungency, and becomes mild and agreeable; with the accompaniment of a little oil and vinegar it forms an

The following day's march led us through the same dead level of grassy plains and mimosas, enlivened with

numerous herds of ariels and large blackstriped gazelles (Dorcas), one of which I succeeded in shooting for

my people. After nine hours' journey we arrived at the, valley of the Atbara, in all sixteen hours' actual

There was an extraordinary change in the appearance of the river between Gozerajup and this spot. There was

no longer the vast sandy desert with the river flowing through its sterile course on a level with the surface of

the country, but after traversing an apparently perfect flat of fortyfive miles of rich alluvial soil, we had

suddenly arrived upon the edge of a deep valley, between five and six miles wide, at the bottom of which,

about 200 feet below the general level of the country, flowed the river Atbara. On the opposite side of the

We commenced the descent towards the river; the valley was a succession of gullies and ravines, of landslips

and watercourses; the entire hollow, of miles in width, had evidently been the work of the river. How many

ages had the rains and the stream been at work to scoop out from the flat table land this deep and broad

valley? Here was the giant labourer that had shovelled the rich loam upon the delta of Lower Egypt! Upon

these vast flats of fertile soil there can be no drainage except through soakage. The deep valley is therefore

the receptacle not only for the water that oozes from its sides, but subterranean channels, bursting as

landsprings from all parts of the walls of the valley, wash down the more soluble portions of earth, and

continually waste away the soil. Landslips occur daily during the rainy season; streams of rich mud pour

down the valley's slopes, and as the river flows beneath in a swollen torrent, the friable banks topple down

into the stream and dissolve. The Atbara becomes the thickness of peasoup, as its muddy waters steadily

perform the duty they have fulfilled from age to age. Thus was the great river at work upon our arrival on its

bank at the bottom of the valley. The Arab name, "Bahr el Aswat" (black river) was well bestowed; it was the

black mother of Egypt, still carrying to her offspring the nourishment that had first formed the Delta.

At this point of interest, the journey had commenced; the deserts were passed, all was fertility and life:

wherever the sources of the Nile might be, the Atbara was the parent of Egypt! This was my first impression,

A VIOLENT thunderstorm, with a deluge of rain, broke upon our camp upon the banks of the Atbara,

fortunately just after the tents were pitched. We thus had an example of the extraordinary effects of the heavy

rain in tearing away the soil of the valley. Trifling watercourses were swollen to torrents; banks of earth

became loosened and fell in, and the rush of mud and water upon all sides swept forward into the river with a

rapidity which threatened the destruction of the country, could such a tempest endure for a few days. In a

couple of hours all was over. The river was narrower than in its passage through the desert, but was

proportionately deeper. The name of the village on the opposite bank was Goorashee, with which a means of

communication had been established by a ferryboat belonging to our friend and late host, Malem Georgis,

the Greek merchant of Cassala. He had much trouble in obtaining permission from the authorities to

introduce this novelty, which was looked upon as an innovation, as such a convenience had never before

existed. The enterprising proprietor had likewise established a cotton farm at Goorashee, which appeared to

succeed admirably, and was an undeniable example of what could be produced in this fertile country were the

spirit of improvement awakened. Notwithstanding the advantage of the ferryboat, many of the Arabs

preferred to swim their camels across the river to paying a trifle to the ferryman. A camel either cannot or

will not swim unless it is supported by inflated skins: thus the passage of the broad river Atbara (at this spot

about 300 yards wide) is an affair of great difficulty. Two waterskins are inflated, and attached to the camel

by a band passed like a girth beneath the belly. Thus arranged, a man sits upon its back, while one or two

swim by the side as guides. The current of the Atbara runs at a rapid rate; thus the camel is generally carried

at least half a mile down the river before it can gain the opposite bank. A few days before our arrival, a man

had been snatched from the back of his camel while crossing, and was carried off by a crocodile. Another

man had been taken during the last week while swimming the river upon a log. It was supposed that these

accidents were due to the same crocodile, who was accustomed to bask upon a mud bank at the foot of the

cotton plantation. On the day following our arrival at the Atbara, we found that our cameldrivers had

absconded during the night with their camels; these were the men who had been forced to serve by the

Governor of Cassala. There was no possibility of proceeding for some days, therefore I sent El Baggar across

the river to endeavour to engage camels, while I devoted myself to a search for the crocodile. I shortly

discovered that it was unfair in the extreme to charge one particular animal with the death of the two Arabs,

as several large crocodiles were lying upon the mud in various places. A smaller one was lying asleep high

and dry upon the bank; the wind was blowing strong, so that, by carefully approaching, I secured a good shot

within thirty yards, and killed it on the spot by a bullet through the head, placed about an inch above the eyes.

After some time, the large crocodiles, who had taken to the water at the report of the gun, again appeared, and

crawled slowly out of the muddy river to their baskingplaces upon the bank. A crocodile usually sleeps with

its mouth wide open; I therefore waited until the immense jaws of the nearest were well expanded, showing a

grand row of glittering teeth, when I crept carefully towards it through the garden of thicklyplanted cotton.

Bacheet and Wat Gamma followed in great eagerness. In a short time I arrived within about forty yards of the

beast, as it lay upon a flat mud bank formed by one of the numerous torrents that had carried down the soil

during the storm of yesterday. The cover ceased, and it was impossible to approach nearer without alarming

the crocodile; it was a fine specimen, apparently nineteen or twenty feet in length, and I took a steady shot

with the little Fletcher rifle at the temple, exactly in front of the point of union of the head with the spine. The

jaws clashed together, and a convulsive start followed by a twitching of the tail led me to suppose that sudden

death had succeeded the shot; but, knowing the peculiar tenacity of life possessed by the crocodile, I fired

another shot at the shoulder, as the huge body lay so close to the river's edge that the slightest struggle would

cause it to disappear. To my surprise, this shot, far from producing a quietus, gave rise to a series of

extraordinary convulsive struggles. One moment it rolled upon its back, lashed out right and left with its tail,

This was too much for the excitable Bacheet, who, followed by his friend, Wat Gamma, with more courage

than discretion, rushed into the river, and endeavoured to catch the crocodile by the tail. Before I had time to

call them back, these two Arab waterdogs were up to their necks in the river, screaming out directions to

each other while they were feeling for the body of the monster with their feet. At length I succeeded in calling

them to shore, and we almost immediately saw the body of the crocodile appear belly upwards, about fifty

yards down the stream; the forepaws were above the water, but, after rolling round several times, it once

more disappeared, rapidly carried away by the muddy torrent. This was quite enough for the Arabs, who had

been watching the event from the opposite bank of the river, and the report quickly spread that two crocodiles

were killed, one of which they declared to be the public enemy that had taken the men at the ferry, but upon

what evidence I cannot understand. Although my Arabs looked forward to a dinner of crocodile flesh, I was

obliged to search for something of rather milder flavour for ourselves. I waited for about an hour while the

first crocodile was being divided, when I took a shot gun and succeeded in killing three geese and a species of

antelope no larger than a hare, known by the Arabs as the Dikdik (Nanotragus Hemprichianus). This little

creature inhabits thick bush. Since my return to England, I have seen a good specimen in the Zoological

Upon my arrival at the tents, I found the camp redolent of musk from the flesh of the crocodile, and the

people were quarrelling for the musk glands, which they had extracted, and which are much prized by the

A crocodile possesses four of such glands; they vary in size according to the age of the reptile, but they are

generally about as large as a hazelnut, when dried. Two glands are situated in the groin, and two in the

throat, a little in advance of the forelegs. I have noticed two species of crocodiles throughout all the rivers of

Abyssinia, and in the White Nile. One of these is of a dark brown colour, and much shorter and thicker in

proportion than the other, which grows to an immense length, an is generally of a pale greenish yellow.

Throughout the Atbara, crocodiles are extremely mischievous and bold; this can be accounted for by the

constant presence of Arabs and their flocks, which the crocodiles have ceased to fear, as they exact a heavy

tribute in their frequent passages of the river. The Arabs assert that the darkcoloured, thickbodied species

The common belief that the scales of the crocodile will stop a bullet is very erroneous. If a rifle is loaded with

the moderate charge of two and a half drachms it will throw an ounce ball through the scales of the hardest

portion of the back; but were the scales struck obliquely, the bullet might possibly glance from the surface, as

in like manner it would ricochet from the surface of water. The crocodile is so difficult to kill outright, that

people are apt to imagine that the scales have resisted their bullets. The only shots that will produce instant

death are those that strike the brain or the spine through the neck. A shot through the shoulder is fatal; but as

the body immediately sinks, and does not reappear upon the surface until the gases have distended the

carcase, the game is generally carried away by the stream before it has had time to float. The body of a

crocodile requires from twelve to eighteen hours before it will rise to the surface, while that of the

hippopotamus will never remain longer than two hours beneath the water, and will generally rise in an hour

and a half after death. This difference in time depends upon the depth and temperature; in deep holes of the

river of from thirty to fifty feet, the water is much cooler near the bottom, thus the gas is not generated in the

body so quickly as in shallow and warmer water. The crocodile is not a grassfeeder, therefore the stomach is

comparatively small, and the contents do not generate the amount of gas that so quickly distends the huge

stomach of the hippopotamus; thus the body of the former requires a longer period before it will rise to the

In the evening we crossed with our baggage and people to the opposite side of the river, and pitched our tents

at the village of Goorashee. A small watercourse had brought down a large quantity of black sand. Thinking

it probable that gold might exist in the same locality, I washed some earth in a copper basin, and quickly

discovered a few specks of the precious metal. Gold is found in small quantities in the sand of the Atbara; at

Fazogle, on the Blue Nile, there are mines of this metal worked by the Egyptian Govermnent. From my

subsequent experience I have no doubt that valuable minerals exist in large quantities throughout the lofty

The camels arrived, and once more we were ready to start. Our factotum, El Baggar, had collected a number

of both baggagecamels and riding dromedaries or "hygeens;" the latter he had brought for approval, as we

had suffered much from the extreme roughness of our late camels. There is the same difference between a

good hygeen or dromedary and a baggagecamel as between the thoroughbred and the carthorse; and it

appears absurd in the eyes of the Arabs that a man of any position should ride a baggagecamel. Apart from

all ideas of etiquette, the motion of the latter animal is quite sufficient warning. Of all species of fatigue, the

backbreaking monotonous swing of a heavy camel is the worst; and, should the rider lose patience, and

administer a sharp cut with the coorbatch that induces the creature to break into a trot, the torture of the rack

is a pleasant tickling compared to the sensation of having your spine driven by a sledgehammer from below,

half a foot deeper into the skull. The human frame may be inured to almost anything; thus the Arabs, who

have always been accustomed to this kind of exercise, hardly feel the motion, and the portion of the body

most subject to pain in riding a rough camel upon two bare pieces of wood for a saddle, becomes naturally

adapted for such rough service, as monkeys become hardened from constantly sitting upon rough substances.

The children commence almost as soon as they are born, as they must accompany their mothers in their

annual migrations; and no sooner can the young Arab sit astride and hold on, than he is placed behind his

father's saddle, to which he clings, while he bumps upon the bare back of the jolting camel. Nature quickly

arranges a horny protection to the nerves, by the thickening of the skin; thus, an Arab's opinion of the action

of a riding hygeen should never be accepted without a personal trial. What appears delightful to him may be

torture to you, as a strong breeze and a rough sea may be charming to a sailor, but worse than death to a

I was determined not to accept the camels now offered as hygeens until I had seen them tried; I accordingly

ordered our black soldier El Baggar to saddle the most easyactioned animal for my wife, but I wished to see

him put it through a variety of paces before she should accept it. The delighted El Baggar, who from long

practice was as hard as the heel of a boot, disdained a saddle; the animal knelt, was mounted, and off he

started at full trot, performing a circle of about fifty yards' diameter as though in a circus. I never saw such an

exhibition! "Warranted quiet to ride, of easy action, and fit for a lady!" This had been the character received

with the rampant brute, who now, with head and tail erect, went tearing round the circle, screaming and

roaring like a wild beast, throwing his forelegs forward, and stepping at least three feet high in his trot.

Where was El Baggar? A disjointedlooking black figure was sometimes on the back of this easygoing

camel, sometimes a foot high in the air; arms, head, legs, hands appeared like a confused mass of

dislocations; the woolly hair of this unearthly individual, that had been carefully trained in long stiff narrow

curls, precisely similar to the tobacco known as "negrohead," alternately started upright en masse, as though

under the influence of electricity, and then fell as suddenly upon his shoulders: had the dark individual been a

"black dose," he or it could not have been more thoroughly shaken. This object, so thoroughly disguised by

rapidity of movement, was El Baggar; happy, delighted El Baggar! As he came rapidly round towards us

flourishing his coorbatch, I called to him, "Is that a nice hygeen for the Sit (lady), El Baggar? is it VERY

easy?" He was almost incapable of a reply. "Very eeaasy," replied the trustworthy authority,

"jjjjust the thinnng for the Siiittt." "All right, that will do," I answered, and the jockey pulled

up his steed. "Are the other camels better or worse than that?" I asked. "Much worse," replied El Baggar; "the

It was impossible to hire a good hygeen; an Arab prizes his riding animal too much, and invariably refuses to

let it to a stranger, but generally imposes upon him by substituting some lightlybuilt camel, that he thinks

will pass muster. I accordingly chose for my wife a steadygoing animal from among the baggagecamels,

trusting to be able to obtain a hygeen from the great sheik Abou Sinn, who was encamped upon the road we

were about to take along the valley of the Atbara; we arranged to leave Goorashee on the following day.

Upon arriving at the highest point of the valley, we found ourselves on the vast table land that stretches from

the Atbara to the Nile. At this season the entire surface had a faint tint of green, as the young shoots of grass

had replied to the late showers of rain; so perfect a level was this great tract of fertile country, that within a

mile of the valley of the Atbara there was neither furrow nor watercourse, but the escape of the rainfall was

by simple soakage. As usual, the land was dotted with mimosas, all of which were now bursting into leaf.

The thorns of the different varieties of these trees are an extraordinary freak of Nature, as she appears to have

exhausted all her art in producing an apparently useless arrangement of defence. The mimosas that are most

common in the Soudan provinces are mere bushes, seldom exceeding six feet in height; these spread out

towards the top like mushrooms, but the branches commence within two feet of the ground; they are armed

with thorns in the shape of fishhooks, which they resemble in sharpness and strength. A thick jungle

composed of such bushes is perfectly impenetrable to any animals but elephants, rhinoceroses, and buffaloes;

and should the clothes of a man become entangled in such thorns, either they must give way, or he must

remain a prisoner. The mimosa that is known among the Arabs as the Kittar is one of the worst species, and is

probably similar to that which caught Absalom by the hair; this differs from the wellknown "Waitabit" of

South Africa, as no milder nickname could be applied than "Deadstop." Were the clothes of strong material,

A magnificent specimen of a kittar, with a widespreading head in the young glory of green leaf, tempted my

hungry camel during our march; it was determined to procure a mouthful, and I was equally determined that

it should keep to the straight path, and avoid the attraction of the green food. After some strong remonstrance

upon my part, the perverse beast shook its ugly head, gave a roar, and started off in full trot straight at the

thorny bush. I had not the slightest control over the animal, and in a few seconds it charged the bush with the

mad intention of rushing either through or beneath it. To my disgust I perceived that the widespreading

branches were only just sufficiently high to permit the back of the camel to pass underneath. There was no

time for further consideration; we charged the bush; I held my head doubled up between my arms, and the

next moment I was on my back, half stunned by the fall. The camelsaddle lay upon the ground; my rifle,

that had been slung behind, my coffeepot, the waterskin burst, and a host of other impedimenta, lay around

me in all directions; worst of all, my beautiful gold repeater lay at some distance from me, rendered entirely

useless. I was as nearly naked as I could be; a few rags held together, but my shirt was gone, with the

exception of some shreds that adhered to my arms. I was, of course, streaming with blood, and looked much

more as though I had been clawed by a leopard than as having simply charged a bush. The camel had fallen

down with the shock after I had been swept off by the thorny branches. To this day I have the marks of the

Unless a ridingcamel is perfectly trained, it is the most tiresome animal to ride after the first green leaves

appear; every bush tempts it from the path, and it is a perpetual fight between the rider and his beast

We shortly halted for the night, as I had noticed unmistakeable signs of an approaching storm. We quickly

pitched the tents, grubbed up the root and stem of a decayed mimosa, and lighted a fire, by the side of which

our people sat in a circle. Hardly had the pile begun to blaze, when a cry from Mahomet's new relative,

Achmet, informed us that he had been bitten by a scorpion. Mahomet appeared to think this highly

entertaining, until suddenly he screamed out likewise, and springing from the ground, he began to stamp and

wring his hands in great agony: he had himself been bitten, and we found that a whole nest of scorpions were

in the rotten wood lately thrown upon the fire; in their flight from the heat they stung all whom they met.

There was no time to prepare food; the thunder already roared above us, and in a few minutes the sky, lately

so clear, was as black as ink. I had already prepared for the storm, and the baggage was piled within the tent;

the ropes of the tents had been left slack to allow for the contraction, and we were ready for the rain. It was

fortunate that we were in order; a rain descended, with an accompaniment of thunder and lightning, of a

volume unknown to the inhabitants of cooler climates; for several hours there was almost an uninterrupted

roar of the most deafening peals, with lightning so vivid that our tent was completely lighted up in the

darkness of the night, and its misery displayed. Not only was the rain pouring through the roof so that we

were wet through as we crouched upon our angareps (stretchers), but the legs of our bedstead stood in more

than six inches of water. Being as wet as I could be, I resolved to enjoy the scene outside the tent; it was

curious in the extreme. Flash after flash of sharp forked lightning played upon the surface of a boundless

lake; there was not a foot of land visible, but the numerous dark bushes projecting from the surface of the

water destroyed the illusion of depth that the scene would otherwise have suggested. The rain ceased, but the

entire country was flooded several inches deep; and when the more distant lightning flashed as the storm

rolled away, I saw the camels lying like statues built into the lake. On the following morning the whole of

this great mass of water had been absorbed by the soil, which had become so adhesive and slippery that it was

impossible for the camels to move; we therefore waited for some hours, until the intense heat of the sun had

Upon striking the tent, we found beneath the valance between the crown and the walls a regiment of

scorpions; the flood had doubtless destroyed great numbers within their holes, but these, having been

disturbed by the deluge, had found an asylum by crawling up the tent walls: with great difficulty we lighted a

fire, and committed them all to the flames. Mahomet made a great fuss about his hand, which was certainly

much swollen, but not worse than that of Achmet, who did not complain, although during the night he had

been again bitten on the leg by one of these venomous insects, that had crawled from the water upon his

clothes. During our journey that morning parallel with the valley of the Atbara, I had an excellent opportunity

of watching the effect of the storm. We rode along the abrupt margin of the table land, where it broke

suddenly into the deep valley; from the sides of this the water was oozing in all directions, creating little

avalanches of earth, which fell as they lost their solidity from too much moisture. This wonderfully rich soil

was rolling gradually towards Lower Egypt. From the heights above the river we had a beautiful view of the

stream, which at this distance, reflecting the bright sunlight, did not appear like the thick liquid mud that we

knew it to be. The valley was of the same general character that we had remarked at Goorashee, but more

abrupta mass of landslips, deep ravines, shaded by mimosas, while the immediate neighbour hood of the

Atbara was clothed with the brightest green foliage. In this part, the valley was about three miles in width,

The commencement of the rainy season was a warning to all the Arabs of this country, who were preparing

for their annual migration to the sandy and firm desert on the west bank of the river, at Gozerajup; that

region, so barren and desolate during the hot season, would shortly be covered with a delicate grass about

eighteen inches high. At that favoured spot the rains fell with less violence, and it formed a nucleus for the

We were travelling south at the very season when the natives were migrating north. I saw plainly that it

would be impossible for us to continue our journey during the wet season, as the camels had the greatest

difficulty in carrying their loads even now, at the commencement: their feet sank deep into the soil; this

formed adhesive clods upon their spongy toes, that almost disabled them. The farther we travelled south, the

more violent would the rains become, and a long tropical experience warned me that the rainy season was the

signal for fevers. All the camels of the Arabs were being driven from the country; we had already met many

herds travelling northward, but this day's march was through crowds of these animals, principally females

with their young, many thousands of which were on the road. Some of the young foals were so small that

they could not endure the march; these were slung in nets upon the backs of camels, while the mother

followed behind. We revelled in milk, as we had not been able to procure it since we left Cassala. Some

persons dislike the milk of the camel; I think it is excellent to drink pure, but it does not answer in general use

for mixing with coffee, with which it immediately curdles; it is extremely rich, and is considered by the

Arabs to be more nourishing than that of the cow. To persons of delicate health I should invariably

recommend boiled milk in preference to plain; and should the digestion be so extremely weak that liquid milk

disagrees with the stomach, they should allow it to become thick, similar to curds and whey: this should be

then beaten together, with the admixture of a little salt and cayenne pepper; it then assumes the thickness of

cream, and is very palatable. The Arabs generally prepare it in this manner; it is not only considered to be

more wholesome, but in its thickened state it is easier to carry upon a journey. With an apology to European

medical men, I would suggest that they should try the Arab system whenever they prescribe a milk diet for a

delicate patient. The first operation of curdling, which is a severe trial to a weak stomach, is performed in hot

climates by the atmosphere, as in temperate climates by the admixture of rennet, thus the most difficult work

of the stomach is effected by a foreign agency, and it is spared the first act of its performance. I have

Milk, if drunk warm from the animal in hot climates will affect many persons in the same manner as a

powerful dose of senna and salts. Our party appeared to be proof against such an accident, as they drank

enough to have stocked a moderatesized dairy. This was most goodnaturedly supplied gratis by the Arabs.

It was the season of rejoicing; everybody appeared in good humour; the distended udders of thousands of

camels were an assurance of plenty. The burning sun that for nine months had scorched the earth was veiled

by passing clouds; the cattle that had panted for water, and whose food was withered straw, were filled with

juicy fodder: the camels that had subsisted upon the dried and leafless twigs and branches, now feasted upon

the succulent tops of the mimosas. Throngs of women and children mounted upon camels, protected by the

peculiar gaudy saddle hood, ornamented with cowrieshells, accompanied the march; thousands of sheep and

goats, driven by Arab boys, were straggling in all directions; baggagecamels, heavily laden with the quaint

household goods, blocked up the way; the fine bronzed figures of Arabs, with sword and shield, and white

topes, or plaids, guided their milkwhite dromedaries through the confused throng with the usual placid

dignity of their race, simply passing by with the usual greeting, "Salaam aleikum," "Peace be with you."

It was the Exodus; all were hurrying towards the promised land"the land flowing with milk and honey,"

where men and beasts would be secure, not only from the fevers of the south, but from that deadly enemy to

If all were right in migrating to the north, it was a logical conclusion that we were wrong in going to the

south during the rainy season; however, we now heard from the Arabs that we were within a couple of hours'

march from the camp of the great Sheik Achmet Abou Sinn, to whom I had a letter of introduction. At the

expiration of about that time we halted, and pitched the tents among some shady mimosas, while I sent

I was busily engaged in making sundry necessary arrangements in the tent, when Mahomet returned, and

announced the arrival of the great sheik in person. He was attended by several of his principal people, and as

he approached through the bright green mimosas, mounted upon a beautiful snowwhite hygeen, I was

exceedingly struck with his venerable and dignified appearance. Upon near arrival I went forward to meet

him, and to assist him from his camel; but his animal knelt immediately at his command, and he dismounted

He was the most magnificent specimen of an Arab that I have ever seen. Although upwards of eighty years of

age, he was as erect as a lance, and did not appear more than between fifty and sixty; he was of Herculean

stature, about six feet three inches high, with immensely broad shoulders and chest; a remarkably arched

nose; eyes like an eagle, beneath large, shaggy, but perfectly white eyebrows; a snowwhite beard of great

thickness descended below the middle of his breast. He wore a large white turban, and a white cashmere

abbai, or long robe, from the throat to the ankles. As a desert patriarch he was superb, the very perfection of

all that the imagination could paint, if we would personify Abraham at the head of his people. This grand old

Arab with the greatest politeness insisted upon our immediately accompanying him to his camp, as he could

not allow us to remain in his country as strangers. He would hear of no excuses, but he at once gave orders to

Mahomet to have the baggage repacked and the tents removed, while we were requested to mount two superb

white hygeens, with saddlecloths of blue Persian sheepskins, that he had immediately accoutred when he

heard from Mahomet of our miserable camels. The tent was struck, and we joined our venerable host with a

line of wild and splendidlymounted attendants, who followed us towards the sheik's encampment.

AMONG the retinue of the aged sheik, whom we now accompanied, were ten of his sons, some of whom

appeared to be quite as old as their father. We had ridden about two miles, when we were suddenly met by a

crowd of mounted men, armed with the usual swords and shields; many were on horses, others upon hygeens,

and all drew up in lines parallel with our approach. These were Abou Sinn's people, who had assembled to

give us the honorary welcome as guests of their chief; this etiquette of the Arabs consists in galloping singly

at full speed across the line of advance, the rider flourishing the sword over his head, and at the same moment

reining up his horse upon its haunches so as to bring it to a sudden halt. This having been performed by about

a hundred riders upon both horses and hygeens, they fell into line behind our party, and, thus escorted, we

shortly arrived at the Arab encampment. In all countries the warmth of a public welcome appears to be

exhibited by noisethe whole neighbourhood had congregated to meet us; crowds of women raised the wild

shrill cry that is sounded alike for joy or sorrow; drums were beat; men dashed about with drawn swords and

engaged in mimic fight, and in the midst of din and confusion we halted and dismounted. With peculiar grace

of manner the old sheik assisted my wife to dismount, and led her to an open shed arranged with angareps

(stretchers) covered with Persian carpets and cushions, so as to form a divan. Sherbet, pipes, and coffee were

shortly handed to us, and Mahomet, as dragoman, translated the customary interchange of compliments; the

sheik assured us that our unexpected arrival among them was "like the blessing of a new moon," the depth of

which expression no one can understand who has not experienced life in the desert, where the first faint

crescent is greeted with such enthusiasm. After a long conversation we were led to an excellent mat tent that

had been vacated by one of his sons, and shortly afterwards an admirable dinner of several dishes was sent to

us, while with extreme good taste we were left undisturbed by visitors until the following morning. Our men

had been regaled with a fat sheep, presented by the sheik, and all slept contentedly.

At sunrise we were visited by Abou Sinn. It appeared that, after our conversation of the preceding evening, he

had inquired of Mahomet concerning my future plans and intentions; he now came specially to implore us not

to proceed south at this season of the year, as it would be perfectly impossible to travel; he described the

country as a mass of mud, rendered so deep by the rains that no animal could move; that the fly called the

"seroot" had appeared, and that no domestic animal except a goat could survive its attack; he declared that to

continue our route would be mere insanity: and he concluded by giving us a most hospitable invitation to join

his people on their road to the healthy country at Gozerajup, and to become his guests for three or four

months, until travelling would be feasible in the south, at which time he promised to assist me in my

explorations by an escort of his own people, who were celebrated elephant hunters, and knew the entire

country before us. This was an alluring programme; but after thanking him for his kindness, I explained how

much I disliked to retrace my steps, which I should do by returning to Gozerajup; and that as I had heard of a

German who was living at the village of Sofi, on the Atbara, I should prefer to pass the season of the rains at

that place, where I could gather information, and be ready on the spot to start for the neighbouring Base

country when the change of season should permit. After some hesitation he consented to this plan, and

promised not only to mount us on our journey, but to send with us an escort commanded by one of his

Abou Sinn had arranged to move northwards on the following day; we therefore agreed to pass one day in his

camp, and to leave for Sofi the next morning. The ground upon which the Arab encampment was situated

was a tolerably flat surface, like a shelf, upon the slope of the Atbara valley, about thirty or forty feet below

the rich table lands; the surface of this was perfectly firm, as by the constant rains it had been entirely

denuded of the loam that had formed the upper stratum. This formed a charming place for the encampment of

a large party, as the ground was perfectly clean, a mixture of quartz pebbles upon a hard white sandstone.

Numerous mimosas afforded a shade, beneath which the Arabs sat in groups, and at the bottom of the valley

This tribe, which was peculiarly that of Abou Sinn, and from which he had sprung, was the Shookeriyah, one

From Korosko to this point we had already passed the Bedouins, Bishareens, Hadendowas, Hallongas, until

we had entered the Shookeriyahs. On the west of our present position were the Jalyns, and to the south near

Sofi were the Dabainas. Many of the tribes claim a right to the title of Bedouins, as descended from that race.

The customs of all the Arabs are nearly similar, and the distinction in appearance is confined to a peculiarity

in dressing the hair; this is a matter of great importance among both men and women. It would be tedious to

describe the minutiae of the various coiffures, but the great desire with all tribes, except the Jalyn, is to have a

vast quantity of hair arranged in their own peculiar fashion, and not only smeared, but covered with as much

fat as can be made to adhere. Thus, should a man wish to get himself up as a great dandy, he would put at

least half a pound of butter or other fat upon his head; this would be worked up with his coarse locks by a

friend, until it somewhat resembled a cauliflower. He would then arrange his tope or plaid of thick cotton

cloth, and throw one end over his left shoulder, while slung from the same shoulder his circular shield would

hang upon his back; suspended by a strap over the right shoulder would hang his long twoedged

Fat is the great desideratum of an Arab; his head, as I have described, should be a mass of grease; he rubs his

body with oil or other ointment; his clothes, i.e. his one garment or tope, is covered with grease, and

The great Sheik Abou Sinn, who is upwards of eighty, as upright as a dart, a perfect Hercules, and whose

children and grandchildren are like the sand of the seashore, has always consumed daily throughout his life

two rottolis (pounds) of melted butter. A short time before I left the country he married a new young wife

The fat most esteemed for dressing the hair is that of the sheep. This undergoes a curious preparation, which

renders it similar in appearance to cold cream; upon the raw fat being taken from the animal it is chewed in

the mouth by an Arab for about two hours, being frequently taken out for examination during that time, until

it has assumed the desired consistency. To prepare sufficient to enable a man to appear in full dress, several

persons must be employed in masticating fat at the same time. This species of pomade, when properly made,

is perfectly white, and exceedingly light and frothy. It may be imagined that when exposed to a burning sun,

the beauty of the headdress quickly disappears, but the oil then runs down the neck and back, which is

considered quite correct, especially when the tope becomes thoroughly greased; the man is then perfectly

anointed. We had seen an amusing exanmple of this when on the march from Berber to Gozerajup. The Turk,

Hadji Achmet, had pressed into our service, as a guide for a few miles, a dandy who had just been arranged

as a cauliflower, with at least half a pound of white fat upon his head. As we were travelling upwards of four

miles an hour in an intense heat, during which he was obliged to run, the fat ran quicker than he did, and at

the end of a couple of hours both the dandy and his pomade were exhausted; the poor fellow had to return to

his friends with the total loss of personal appearance and half a pound of butter.

Not only are the Arabs particular in their pomade, but great attention is bestowed upon perfumery, especially

by the women. Various perfumes are brought from Cairo by the travelling native merchants; among which

those most in demand are oil of roses, oil of sandalwood, an essence from the blossom of a species of

mimosa, essence of musk, and the oil of cloves. The women have a peculiar method of scenting their bodies

and clothes by an operation that is considered to be one of the necessaries of life, and which is repeated at

regular intervals. In the floor of the tent, or hut, as it may chance to be, a small hole is excavated sufficiently

large to contain a commonsized champagne bottle: a fire of charcoal, or of simply glowing enmbers, is

made within the hole, into which the woman about to be scented throws a handful of various drugs; she then

takes off the cloth or tope which forms her dress, and crouches naked over the fumes, while she arranges her

robe to fall as a mantle from her neck to the ground like a tent. When this arrangement is concluded she is

perfectly happy, as none of the precious fumes can escape, all being retained beneath the robe, precisely as if

she wore a crinoline with an incenseburner beneath it, which would be a far more simple way of performing

the operation. She now begins to perspire freely in the hotair bath, and the pores of the skin being thus

opened and moist, the volatile oil from the smoke of the burning perfumes is immediately absorbed.

By the time that the fire has expired, the scenting process is completed, and both her person and robe are

redolent of incense, with which they are so thoroughly impregnated that I have frequently smelt a party of

women strongly at full a hundred yards' distance, when the wind has been blowing from their direction. Of

course this kind of perfumery is only adapted for those who live in tents and in the open air, but it is

considered by the ladies to have a peculiar attraction for the other sex, as valerian is said to ensnare the genus

felis. As the men are said to be allured by this particular combination of sweet smells, and to fall victims to

the delicacy of their nasal organs, it will be necessary to give the receipt for the fatal mixture, to be made up

in proportions according to taste :Ginger, cloves, cinnamon, frankincense, sandalwood, myrrh, a species

of seaweed that is brought from the Red Sea, and lastly, what I mistook for shells, but which I subsequently

discovered to be the horny disc that closes the aperture when a shellfish withdraws itself within its shell;

these are also brought from the Red Sea, in which they abound throughout the shores of Nubia and Abyssinia.

In addition to the charm of sweet perfumes, the women who can afford the luxury, suspend from their necks a

few pieces of the dried glands of the musk cat, which is a native of the country; such an addition completes

Hairdressing in all parts of the world, both civilized and savage, is a branch of science; savage negro tribes

are distinguished by the various arrangements of their woolly heads. Arabs are marked by similar

peculiarities, that have never changed for thousands of years, and may be yet seen depicted upon the walls of

Egyptian temples in the precise forms as worn at present, while in modern times the perfection of art has been

in the wig of a Lord Chancellor. Although this latter example of the result of science is not the actual hair of

the wearer, it adds an imposing glow of wisdom to the general appearance, and may have originated as a

necessity where a deficiency of sagacity had existed, and where the absence of years required the fictitious

crown of grey old age. A barrister in his wig, and the same amount of learning without the wig, is a very

different affair; he is an imperfect shadow of himself. Nevertheless, among civilized nations, the men do not

generally bestow much anxiety upon the fashion of their hair; the labour in this branch of art is generally

performed by the women, who in all countries and climes, and in every stage of civilization, bestow the

greatest pains upon the perfection of the coiffure, the various arrangements of which might, I should imagine,

be estimated by the million. In some countries they are not even contented with the natural colour of the hair,

either if black or blonde, but they use a pigment that turns it red. I only noticed this among the Somauli tribe;

and that of the Nuehr, some of the wildest savages of the White Nile, until I returned to England, where I

found the custom was becoming general among the civilized, and that ladies were adopting the lovely tint of

the British fox. The Arab women do not indulge in fashions; strictly conservative in their manners and

customs, they never imitate, but they simply vie with each other in the superlativeness of their own style; thus

the dressing of the hair is a most elaborate affair, which occupies a considerable portion of their time. It is

quite impossible for an Arab woman to arrange her own hair; she therefore employs an assistant, who, if

clever in the art, will generally occupy about three days before it is satisfactorily concluded. First, the hair

must be combed with a long skewerlike pin; then, when well divided, it becomes possible to use an

exceedingly coarse wooden comb. When the hair is reduced to reasonable order by the latter process, a

vigorous hunt takes place, which occupies about an hour, according to the amount of game preserved; the

sport concluded, the hair is rubbed with a mixture of oil of roses, myrrh, and sandalwood dust mixed with a

powder of cloves and cassia. When well greased and rendered somewhat stiff by the solids thus introduced, it

is plaited into at least two hundred fine plaits; each of these plaits is then smeared with a mixture of

sandalwood dust and either gum water or paste of dhurra flour. On the last day of the operation, each tiny

plait is carefully opened by the long hairpin or skewer, and the head is ravissante. Scented and frizzled in

this manner, with a wellgreased tope or robe, the Arab lady's toilet is complete, her head is then a little

larger than the largest sized English mop, and her perfume is something between the aroma of a perfumer's

shop and the monkeyhouse at the Zoological Gardens. This is considered "very killing," and I have been

quite of that opinion when a crowd of women have visited my wife in our tent, with the thermometer at 95

degrees, and they have kindly consented to allow me to remain as one of the party. It is hardly necessary to

add, that the operation of hairdressing is not often performed, but that the effect is permanent for about a

week, during which time the game become so excessively lively, that the creatures require stirring up with the

long hairpin or skewer whenever too unruly; this appears to be constantly necessary from the vigorous

employment of the ruling sceptre during conversation. A levee of Arab women in the tent was therefore a

disagreeable invasion, as we dreaded the fugitives; fortunately, they appeared to cling to the followers of

The plague of lice brought upon the Egyptians by Moses has certainly adhered to the country ever since, if

"lice" is the proper translation of the Hebrew word in the Old Testament: it is my own opinion that the insects

thus inflicted upon the population were not lice, but ticks. Exod. viii. 16, "The dust became lice throughout

all Egypt;" again, Exod. viii. 17, "Smote dust . . . it became lice in man and beast." Now the louse that infects

the human body and hair has no connexion whatever with "dust," and if subject to a few hours' exposure to

the dry heat of the burning sand, it would shrivel and die; but the tick is an inhabitant of the dust, a dry horny

insect without any apparent moisture in its composition; it lives in hot sand and dust, where it cannot possibly

obtain nourishment, until some wretched animal should lie down upon the spot, and become covered with

these horrible vermin. I have frequently seen desert places so infested with ticks, that the ground was

perfectly alive with them, and it would have been impossible to have rested on the earth; in such spots, the

passage in Exodus has frequently occurred to me as bearing reference to these vermin, which are the greatest

enemies to man and beast. It is well known that, from the size of a grain of sand in their natural state, they

will distend to the size of a hazelnut after having preyed for some days upon the blood of an animal. The

Arabs are invariably infested with lice, not only in their hair, but upon their bodies and clothes; even the

small charms or spells worn upon the arm in neatlysewn leathern packets are full of these vermin. Such

spells are generally verses copied from the Koran by the Faky, or priest, who receives some small gratuity in

exchange; the men wear several of such talismans upon the arm above the elbow, but the women wear a large

bunch of charms, as a sort of chatelaine, suspended beneath their clothes round the waist. Although the tope

or robe, loosely but gracefully arranged around the body, appears to be the whole of the costume, the women

wear beneath this garment a thin blue cotton cloth tightly bound round the loins, which descends to a little

above the knee; beneath this, next to the skin, is the last garment, the rahatthe latter is the only clothing of

young girls, and may be either perfectly simple or adorned with beads and cowrie shells according to the

fancy of the wearer; it is perfectly effective as a dress, and admirably adapted to the climate.

The rahat is a fringe of fine dark brown or reddish twine, fastened to a belt, and worn round the waist. On

either side are two long tassels, that are generally ornamented with beads or cowries, and dangle nearly to the

ankles, while the rahat itself should descend to a little above the knee, rather shorter than a Highland kilt.

Nothing can be prettier or more simple than this dress, which, although short, is of such thickly hanging

fringe, that it perfectly answers the purpose for which it is intended. Many of the Arab girls are remarkably

goodlooking, with fine figures until they become mothers. They generally marry at the age of thirteen or

fourteen, but frequently at twelve, or even earlier. Until married, the rahat is their sole garment. Throughout

the Arab tribes of Upper Egypt, chastity is a necessity, as an operation is performed at the early age of from

three to five years that thoroughly protects all females, and which renders them physically proof against

There is but little lovemaking among the Arabs. The affair of matrimony usually commences by a present to

the father of the girl, which, if accepted, is followed by a similar advance to the girl herself, and the

arrangement is completed. All the friends of both parties are called together for the wedding; pistols and guns

are fired off, if possessed. There is much feasting, and the unfortunate bridegroom undergoes the ordeal of

whipping by the relations of his bride, in order to test his courage. Sometimes this punishment is exceedingly

severe, being inflicted with the coorbatch or whip of hippopotamus hide, which is cracked vigorously about

his ribs and back. If the happy husband wishes to be considered a man worth having, he must receive the

chastisement with an expression of enjoyment; in which case the crowds of women again raise their thrilling

cry in admiration. After the rejoicings of the day are over, the bride is led in the evening to the residence of

her husband, while a beating of drums and strumming of guitars (rhababas) are kept up for some hours during

There is no divorce court among the Arabs. They are not sufficiently advanced in civilization to accept a

pecuniary fine as the price of a wife's dishonour; but a stroke of the husband's sword, or a stab with the knife,

is generally the ready remedy for infidelity. Although strictly Mahometans, the women are never veiled;

neither do they adopt the excessive reserve assumed by the Turks and Egyptians. The Arab women are

generally idle; and one of the conditions of accepting a suitor is, that a female slave is to be provided for the

special use of the wife. No Arab woman will engage herself as a domestic servant; thus, so long as their

present customs shall remain unchanged, slaves are creatures of necessity. Although the law of Mahomet

limits the number of wives for each man to four at one time, the Arab women do not appear to restrict their

husbands to this allowance, and the slaves of the establishment occupy the position of concubines.

The customs of the Arabs in almost every detail have remained unchanged. Thus, in dress, in their nomadic

habits, food, the anointing with oil (Eccles. ix. 8, "Let thy garments be always white, and let thy head lack no

ointment"), they retain the habits and formalities of the distant past, and the present is but the exact picture of

those periods which are historically recorded in the Old Testament. The perfumery of the women already

described, bears a resemblance to that prepared by Moses for the altar, which was forbidden to be used by the

people. "Take thou also unto thee principal spices, of pure myrrh five hundred shekels, and of sweet

cinnamon half so much, even two hundred and fifty shekels, and of sweet calamus two hundred and fifty

shekels, and of cassia five hundred shekels, after the shekel of the sanctuary, and of oil olive an hin: and thou

shalt make it an oil of holy ointment, an ointment compound after the art of the apothecary: it shall be an holy

The manner of anointing by the ancients is exhibited by the Arabs at the present day, who, as I have already

described, make use of so large a quantity of grease at one application that, when melted, it runs down over

their persons and clothes. In Ps. cxxxiii. 2, "It is like the precious ointment upon the head, that ran down upon

In all hot climates, oil or other fat is necessary to the skin as a protection from the sun, where the body is

either naked or very thinly clad. I have frequently seen both Arabs and the negro tribes of Africa suffer great

discomfort when for some days the supply of grease has been exhausted; the skin has become coarse, rough,

almost scaly, and peculiarly unsightly, until the muchloved fat has been obtained, and the general

appearance of smoothness has been at once restored by an active smearing. The expression in Ps. civ. 15,

"And oil to make his face to shine," describes the effect that was then considered beautifying, as it is at the

The Arabs generally adhere strictly to their ancient customs, independently of the comparatively recent laws

established by Mahomet. Thus, concubinage is not considered a breach of morality; neither is it regarded by

the legitimate wives with jealousy. They attach great importance to the laws of Moses, and to the customs of

their forefathers; neither can they understand the reason for a change of habit in any respect where necessity

has not suggested the reform. The Arabs are creatures of necessity; their nomadic life is compulsory, as the

existence of their flocks and herds depends upon the pasturage. Thus, with the change of seasons they must

change their localities, according to the presence of fodder for their cattle. Driven to and fro by the accidents

of climate, the Arab has been compelled to become a wanderer; and precisely as the wild beasts of the

country are driven from place to place either by the arrival of the fly, the lack of pasturage, or by the want of

water, even so must the flocks of the Arab obey the law of necessity, in a country where the burning sun and

total absence of rain for nine months of the year convert the green pastures into a sandy desert. The Arabs and

their herds must follow the example of the wild beasts, and live as wild and wandering a life. In the absence

of a fixed home, without a city, or even a village that is permanent, there can be no change of custom. There

is no stimulus to competition in the style of architecture that is to endure only for a few months; no municipal

laws suggest deficiencies that originate improvements. The Arab cannot halt in one spot longer than the

pasturage will support his flocks; therefore his necessity is food for his beasts. The object of his life being

fodder, he must wander in search of the everchanging supply. His wants must be few, as the constant

changes of encampment necessitate the transport of all his household goods; thus he reduces to a minimum

the domestic furniture and utensils. No desires for strange and fresh objects excite his mind to improvement,

or alter his original habits; he must limit his impedimenta, not increase them. Thus with a few necessary

articles he is contented. Mats for his tent, ropes manufactured with the hair of his goats and camels, pots for

carrying fat; waterjars and earthenware pots or gourdshells for containing milk; leather waterskins for the

desert, and sheepskin bags for his clothes,these are the requirements of the Arabs. Their patterns have

never changed, but the waterjar of today is of the same form that was carried to the well by the women of

thousands of years ago. The conversation of the Arabs is in the exact style of the Old Testament. The name of

God is coupled with every trifling incident in life, and they believe in the continual action of Divine special

interference. Should a famine afflict the country, it is expressed in the stern language of the Bible"The

Lord has sent a grievous famine upon the land;" or, "The Lord called for a famine, and it came upon the

land." Should their cattle fall sick, it is considered to be an affliction by Divine command; or should the

flocks prosper and multiply particularly during one season, the prosperity is attributed to special interference.

Nothing can happen in the usual routine of daily life without a direct connexion with the hand of God,

This striking similarity to the descriptions of the Old Testament is exceedingly interesting to a traveller when

residing among these curious and original people. With the Bible in one hand, and these unchanged tribes

before the eyes, there is a thrilling illustration of the sacred record; the past becomes the present; the veil of

three thousand years is raised, and the living picture is a witness to the exactness of the historical description.

At the same time, there is a light thrown upon many obscure passages in the Old Testament by the experience

of the present customs and figures of speech of the Arabs which are precisely those that were practised at the

periods described. I do not attempt to enter upon a theological treatise, therefore it is unnecessary to allude

specially to these particular points. The sudden and desolating arrival of a flight of locusts, the plague, or any

other unforeseen calamity, is attributed to the anger of God, and is believed to be an infliction of punishment

upon the people thus visited, precisely as the plagues of Egypt were specially inflicted upon Pharaoh and the

Should the present history of the country be written by an Arab scribe, the style of the description would be

purely that of the Old Testament; and the various calamities or the good fortunes that have in the course of

nature befallen both the tribes and individuals, would be recounted either as special visitations of Divine

wrath, or blessings for good deeds performed. If in a dream a particular course of action is suggested, the

Arab believes that God has spoken and directed him. The Arab scribe or historian would describe the event as

the "voice of the Lord" ("kallam el Allah"), having spoken unto the person; or, that God appeared to him in a

dream and "said," Thus much allowance would be necessary on the part of a European reader for the

figurative ideas and expressions of the people. As the Arabs are unchanged, the theological opinions which

they now hold are the same as those which prevailed in remote ages, with the simple addition of their belief

There is a fascination in the unchangeable features of the Nile regions. There are the vast Pyramids that have

defied time; the river upon which Moses was cradled in infancy; the same sandy deserts through which he led

his people; and the wateringplaces where their flocks were led to drink. The wild and wandering tribes of

Arabs who thousands of years ago dug out the wells in the wilderness, are represented by their descendants

unchanged, who now draw water from the deep wells of their forefathers with the skins that have never

altered their fashion. The Arabs, gathering with their goats and sheep around the wells today, recall the

recollection of that distant time when "Jacob went on his journey, and came into the land of the people of the

east. And he looked, and behold a well in the field; and, lo, there were three flocks of sheep lying by it, for

out of that well they watered the flocks; and a great stone was upon the well's mouth. And thither were all the

flocks gathered; and they rolled the stone from the well's mouth, and watered the sheep, and put the stone

again upon the well's mouth in his place." The picture of that scene would be an illustration of Arab daily life

ON the morning of the 25th July, 1861, Abou Sinn arrived at our tent with a number of his followers, in their

whitest apparel, accompanied by one of his grandsons, Sheik Ali, who was to command our escort and to

accompany us to the frontier of the Dabaina tribe, at which spot we were to be handed over to the care of the

sheik of those Arabs, Atalan Wat Said, who would conduct us to Sofi. There were two superb hygeens duly

equipped for my wife and myself: they were snowwhite, without speck or blemish, and as clean and

silklike as good grooming could accomplish. One of these beautiful creatures I subsequently

measured,seven feet three and a half inches to the top of the hump; this was much above the average. The

baggagecamels were left to the charge of the servants, and we were requested to mount immediately, as the

Sheik Abou Sinn was determined to accompany us for some distance as a mark of courtesy, although he was

himself to march with his people on that day in the opposite direction towards Gozerajup. Escorted by our

grand old host, with a great number of mounted attendants, we left the hospitable camp, and followed the

margin of the Atbara valley towards the south, until, at the distance of about two miles, Abou Sinn took

We now enjoyed the contrast between the light active step of firstclass hygeens, and the heavy swinging

action of the camels we had hitherto ridden. Travelling was for the first time a pleasure; there was a delightful

movement in the elasticity of the hygeens, who ambled at about five miles and a half an hour, as their natural

pace; this they can continue for nine or ten hours without fatigue. Having no care for the luggage, and the

coffeepot being slung upon the saddle of an attendant, who also carried our carpet, we were perfectly

independent, as we were prepared with the usual luxuries upon halting,the carpet to recline upon beneath a

shady tree, and a cup of good Turkish coffee. Thus we could afford to travel at a rapid rate, and await the

arrival of the baggagecamels at the end of the day's journey. In this manner the march should be arranged in

these wild countries, where there is no restingplace upon the path beyond the first inviting shade that

suggests a halt. The day's journey should be about twentyfour miles. A loaded camel seldom exceeds two

miles and a half per hour; at this rate nearly ten hours would be consumed upon the road daily, during which

time the traveller would be exposed to the intense heat of the sun, and to the fatigue inseparable from a long

and slow march. A servant mounted upon a good hygeen should accompany him with the coffee apparatus

and a cold roast fowl and biscuits; the ever necessary carpet should form the cover to his saddle, to be ready

when required; he then rides far in advance of the caravan. This simple arrangement insures comfort, and

lessens the ennui of the journey; the baggagecamels are left in charge of responsible servants, to be brought

forward at their usual pace, until they shall arrive at the place selected for the halt by the traveller. The usual

hour of starting is about 5.30 A.M. The entire day's journey can be accomplished in something under five

hours upon hygeens, instead of the ten hours dreary pace of the caravan; thus, the final halt would be made at

about 10.30 A.M. at which time the traveller would be ready for breakfast. The carpet would be spread under

a shady tree; upon a branch of this his waterskin should be suspended, and the day's work over, he can write

up his journal and enjoy his pipe while coffee is being prepared. After breakfast he can take his gun or rifle

and explore the neighbourhood, until the baggagecamels shall arrive in the evening, by which time, if he is a

sportsman, he will have procured something for the dinner of the entire party. The servants will have

collected firewood, and all will be ready for the arrival of the caravan, without the confusion and bustle of a

general scramble, inseparable from the work to be suddenly performed, when camels must be unloaded, fuel

collected, fires lighted, the meals prepared, beds made, all at the same moment, with the chance of little to

eat. Nothing keeps the cameldrivers and attendants in such good humour as a successful rifle. While they

are on their long and slow march, they speculate upon the good luck that may attend the master's gun, and

upon arrival at the general bivouac in the evening they are always on the alert to skin and divide the

antelopes, pluck the guineafowls, We now travelled in this delightful manner; there were great numbers of

guineafowl throughout the country, which was the same everlasting flat and rich table land, extending for

several hundred miles to the south, and dotted with green mimosas; while upon our left was the broken valley

The only drawback to the journey was the rain. At about 2 P.M. daily we were subjected to a violent storm,

which generally lasted until the evening; and although our guides invariably hurried forward on the march to

the neighbourhood of some deserted huts, whose occupants had migrated north, our baggage and servants

upon the road were exposed to the storm, and arrived late in the evening, wet and miserable. There could be

no doubt that the season for travelling was past. Every day's journey south had proved by the increased

vegetation that we were invading the rainy zone, and that, although the northern deserts possessed their

horrors of sandy desolation, they at the same time afforded that great advantage to the traveller, a dry climate.

In a few rapid marches we arrived at Tomat, the commencement of the Dabainas and the principal

headquarters of the sheik of that tribe, Atalan Wat Said. This was a lovely spot, where the country appeared

like green velvet, as the delicate young grass was about two inches above the ground. The Arab camp was

situated upon a series of knolls about a hundred and fifty feet above the Atbara, upon the hard ground

denuded by the rains, as this formed a portion of the valley. At this spot, the valley on the west bank of the

river was about two miles broad, and exhibited the usual features of innumerable knolls, ravines, and

landslips, in succession, like broken terraces from the high level table land, sloping down irregularly to the

water's edge. On the opposite side of the river was the most important feature of the country; the land on the

east bank was considerably higher than upon the west, and a long tongue formed a bluff cliff that divided the

Atbara valley from the sister valley of the Settite, which, corresponding exactly in character and apparent

dimensions, joined that of the Atbara from the S.E., forming an angle like the letter V, in a sudden bend of

the river. Through the valley of the eastern bank flowed the grand river Settite, which here formed a junction

Looking down upon the beautifully wooded banks of the two rivers at this interesting point, we rode leisurely

across a ravine, and ascended a steep incline of bright green grass, upon the summit of which was a fine level

space of several acres that formed the Arab headquarters. This surface was nearly covered with the usual

mat tents, and in a few moments our camels knelt before that of the sheik, at which we dismounted. A crowd

of inquisitive Arabs surrounded us upon seeing so large a party of hygeens, and the firman having been

delivered by our guide, Sheik Ali, we were almost immediately visited by Sheik Atalan Wat Said. He was a

man in the prime of life, of an intelligent countenance, and he received us with much politeness, immediately

The usual welcome upon the arrival of a traveller, who is well received in an Arab camp, is the sacrifice of a

fat sheep, that should be slaughtered at the door of his hut or tent, so that the blood flows to the threshold.

This custom has evidently some connexion with the ancient rites of sacrifice. Should an important expedition

be undertaken, a calf is slaughtered at the entrance of the camp, and every individual steps over the body as

Upon learning my plans, he begged us to remain through the rainy season at Tomat, as it was the

headquarters of a party of Egyptian irregular troops, who would assist me in every way. This was no great

temptation, as they were the people whom I most wished to avoid; I therefore explained that I was bound to

Sofi by the advice of Abou Sinn, from whence I could easily return if I thought proper, but I wished to

proceed on the following morning. He promised to act as our guide, and that hygeens should be waiting at the

tentdoor at sunrise. After our interview, I strolled down to the river's side and shot some guineafowl.

The Settite is the river par excellence, as it is the principal stream of Abyssinia, in which country it bears the

name of "Tacazzy." Above the junction, the Atbara does not exceed two hundred yards in width. Both rivers

have scooped out deep and broad valleys throughout their course; this fact confirmed my first impression of

the supply of soil having been brought down by the Atbara to the Nile. The country on the opposite or eastern

bank of the Atbara is contested ground; in reality it forms the western frontier of Abyssinia, of which the

Atbara river is the boundary, but since the annexation of the Nubian provinces to Egypt there has been no

safety for life or property upon the line of frontier; thus a large tract of country actually forming a portion of

Upon my return to the camp, I was informed by the Sheik Wat Said that a detachment of troops was stationed

at Tomat expressly to protect the Egyptian frontier from the raids of Mek Nimmur, who was in the habit of

crossing the Atbara and pillaging the Arab villages during the dry season, when the river was fordable. This

Mek Nimmur was a son of the celebrated Mek Nimmur, the chief of Shendy, a district upon the west bank of

the Nile between Berber and Khartoum. When the Egyptian forces, under the command of Ismael Pasha, the

son of the Viceroy Mehemet Ali Pasha, arrived at Shendy, at the time of the conquest of Nubia, he called the

great Sheik Mek (from Melek, signifying king) Nimmur before him, and demanded the following supplies for

his army, as tribute for the Pasha:1,000 young girls as slaves; 1,000 oxen; and of camels, goats, sheep,

each 1,000; also camelloads of corn and straw each 1,000, with a variety of other demands expressed by the

same figure. It is said that Mek Nimmur replied to these demands with much courtesy, "Your arithmetic

exhibits a charming simplicity, as the only figure appears to be 1,000." In a short time the supplies began to

arrive, strings of camels, laden with corn, assembled at Shendy in the Egyptian camp; cattle, goats, sheep,

came in from all sides; fodder for the Egyptian cavalry, to the amount of 1,000 camelloads, was brought to

headquarters, and piled in a huge wall that encircled the tent of the General Ismael Pasha. In the dead of

night, while he slept, the crackling of fire was heard, and flames burst out upon all sides of the dry and

combustible fodder; the Arabs had fired the straw in all directions, and a roar of flame in a fatal ring

surrounded the Pasha's tent, which caught the fire. There was no escape! In the confusion, the Arabs fell upon

the troops, and massacred a considerable number. After this success, Mek Nimmur succeeded in retiring with

his people and herds to Sofi, on the Atbara, to which place we were bound; this was about twelve miles from

Tomat. The body of Ismael Pasha was found beneath those of some of his women, all of whom that were

After this calamity the Egyptians recovered Shendy, and in revenge they collected a number of the

inhabitants of all ages and both sexes. These were penned together like cattle in a zareeba or kraal, and were

surrounded with dhurrastraw, which was fired in a similar manner to that which destroyed the Pasha. Thus

were these unfortunate creatures destroyed en masse, while the remaining portion of the population fled to the

Within the last few years preceding my arrival, the Egyptians had attacked and utterly destroyed the old town

of Sofi. Mek Nimmur had retired across the Atbara, and had taken refuge in Abyssinia, where he had been

welcomed by the king of that country as the enemy of the Turks, and had been presented with a considerable

territory at the western base of the high mountain range. When I arrived on the Atbara in 1861, the original

Mek Nimnmur was dead, and his son, who also was called Mek Nimmur, reigned in his stead. "Nimmur"

This man was constantly at war with the Egyptians, and such Arabs who were friendly to Egypt. His principal

headquarters were about seventy miles from Tomat, at a village named Mai Gubba, from which country he

made successful razzias upon the Egyptian territory, which compelled a vigilant lookout during the dry

season. During the rains there was no danger, as the river was immensely deep, and impassable from the total

The uninhabited country exactly opposite Tomat was said to abound with large game, such as elephants,

At break of day, 29th July, the grandson of Abou Sinn, Sheik Ali, who had been our guide, paid us his parting

visit, and returned with his people, while at the same time Atalan Wat Said arrived with a large retinue of his

own Arabs and Egyptian soldiers to escort us to Sofi. Two splendid hygeens were already saddled for us, one

of which was specially intended for my wife; this was the most thoroughbred looking animal I have ever

seen; both were milkwhite, but there was a delicacy in the latter that was unequalled. This was rather small,

and although the ribs were so well covered that the animal appeared rather fleshy, it was in the hardiest

condition, and was shaped in the depth of brisket and width of loins like a greyhound; the legs were

remarkably fine, and as clean as ivory. The Sheik Atalan was charmed at our admiration of his muchprized

hygeen, and to prove its speed and easy action we were no sooner mounted than he led the way at about ten

miles an hour, down the steep slopes, across the rough watercourses, and up the hillsides, assuring my wife

that she might sip a cup of coffee on the back of the animal she rode, without spilling a drop: although an

exaggeration, this is the usual figure of speech by which an Arab describes the easy action of a firstrate

hygeen. It was a beautiful sight to watch the extraordinary ease with which the hygeen glided along over the

numerous inequalities of the ground without the slightest discomfort to the rider; the numerous escort became

a long and irregular line of stragglers, until at length they were lost in the distance, with the exception of three

or four, who, well mounted, were proud of keeping their position. Emerging from the uneven valley of the

Atbara, we arrived upon the high and level table land above; here the speed increased, and in the exhilaration

of the pace in the cool morning air, with all nature glowing in the fresh green of a Nubian spring, we only

regretted the shortness of the journey to Sofi, which we reached before the heat of the day had commenced.

We were met by the sheik of the village, and by a German who had been a resident of Sofi for some years; he

was delighted to see Europeans, especially those who were conversant with his own language, and he very

politely insisted that we should dismount at his house. Accordingly our camels knelt at the door of a little

circular stone building about twelve feet in diameter, with a roof thatched according to Arab fashion. This

dwelling was the model of an Arab hut, but the walls were of masonry instead of mud and sticks, and two

small windows formed an innovation upon the Arab style, which had much astonished the natives, who are

We were shortly sitting in the only stone building in the country, among a crowd of Arabs, who, according to

their annoying custom, had thronged to the hut upon our arrival, and not only had filled the room, but were

sitting in a mob at the doorway, while masses of moplike heads were peering over the shoulders of the front

rank, excluding both light and air; even the windows were blocked with highly frizzled heads, while all were

Coffee having been handed to the principal people while our tents were being pitched outside the village, we

at length silenced the crowd; our new acquaintance explained in Arabic the object of our arrival, and our

intention of passing the rainy season at Sofi, and of exploring the various rivers of Abyssinia at the earliest

opportunity. Atalan Wat Said promised every assistance when the time should arrive; he described the

country as abounding with large game of all kinds, and he agreed to furnish me with guides and hunters at the

commencement of the hunting season; in the meantime he ordered the sheik of the village, Hassan bel Kader,

After the departure of Atalan and his people, and the usual yelling of the women, we had time to examine

Sofi, and accompanied by the German, Florian, we strolled through the village. At this position the slope of

the valley towards the river was exceedingly gradual upon the west bank, until within a hundred and fifty

yards of the Atbara, when the ground rapidly fell, and terminated in an abrupt cliff of white sandstone.

The miserable little village of modern Sofi comprised about thirty straw huts, but the situation was worthy of

a more important settlement. A plateau of hard sandy soil of about twenty acres was bordered upon either

side by two deep ravines that formed a natural protection, while below the steep cliff, within two hundred

paces in front of the village, flowed the river Atbara; for mounted men there was only one approach, that

which we had taken from the main land. There could not have been a more inviting spot adopted for a

restingplace during the rains. Although the soil was thoroughly denuded of loam, and nothing remained but

the original substratum of sandstone and pebbles, the grass was at this season about three inches high

throughout the entire valley of the Atbara, the trees were in full leaf, and the vivid green, contrasting with the

snowwhite sandstone rocks, produced the effect of an ornamental park. My tents were pitched upon a level

piece of ground, outside the village, about a hundred paces from the river, where the grass had been so

closely nibbled by the goats that it formed a natural lawn, and was perfection for a camp; drains were dug

around the tent walls, and everything was arranged for a permanency. I agreed with the sheik for the erection

of a comfortabie hut for ourselves, a kitchen adjoining, and a hut for the servants, as the heavy storms were

too severe for a life under canvas; in the meantime we sat in our tent, and had a quiet chat with Florian, the

He was a sallow, sicklylooking man, who with a large bony frame had been reduced from constant hard

work and frequent sickness to little but skin and sinew; he was a mason, who had left Germany with the

Austrian Mission to Khartoum, but finding the work too laborious in such a climate, he and a friend, who was

They were both enterprising fellows, and sportsmen; therefore they had purchased rifles and ammunition, and

had commenced life as hunters; at the same time they employed their leisure hours in earning money by the

work of their hands in various ways. Florian, being a stonemason, had of course built his hut of stone; he was

a fair blacksmith and carpenter, and was well provided with tools; but his principal occupation was

whipmaking, from the hides of hippopotami. As coorbatches were required throughout the country there was

an extensive demand for his camelwhips, which were far superior to those of native manufacture; these he

sold to the Arabs at about two shillings each. He had lately met with a serious accident by the bursting of one

of the wretched guns that formed his sporting battery; this had blown away his thumb from the wrist joint,

and had so shattered his hand that it would most likely have suffered amputation had he enjoyed the

advantage of European surgical assistance; but with the simple aid of his young black lad, Richarn, who cut

off the dangling thumb and flesh with his knife, he had preserved his hand, minus one portion.

Florian had had considerable experience in some parts of the country that I was about to visit, and he gave me

much valuable information that was of great assistance in directing my first operations. The close of the rainy

season would be about the middle of September, but travelling would be impossible until November, as the

fly would not quit the country until the grass should become dry; therefore the Arabs would not return with

It appeared that this peculiar fly, which tortured all domestic animals, invaded the country shortly after the

commencement of the rains, when the grass was about two feet high; a few had already been seen, but Sofi

was a favoured spot that was generally exempt from this plague, which clung more particularly to the flat and

rich table lands, where the quality of grass was totally different to that produced upon the pebbly and denuded

soil of the sandstone slopes of the valley. The grass of the slopes was exceedingly fine, and would not exceed

a height of about two feet, while that of the table lands would exceed nine feet, and become impassable, until

sufficiently dry to be cleared by fire. In November, the entire country would become a vast prairie of dried

Florian had hunted for some distance along the Settite river with his companions, and had killed fiftythree

hippopotami during the last season. I therefore agreed that he should accompany me until I should have

sufficiently explored that river, after which I proposed to examine the rivers Salaam and Angrab, of which

great tributaries of the Atbara nothing definite was known, except that they joined that river about fifty miles

Florian described the country as very healthy during the dry season, but extremely dangerous during the

rains, especially in the month of October, when, on the cessation of rain, the sun evaporated the moisture

from the sodden ground and rank vegetation. I accordingly determined to arrange our winter quarters as

comfortably as possible at Sofi for three months, during which holiday I should have ample time for gaining

information and completing my arrangements for the future. Violent storms were now of daily occurrence;

they had first commenced at about 2 P.M., but they had gradually altered the hour of their arrival to between

3 and 4. This night, 29th July, we were visited at about 11 P.M. with the most tremendous tempest that we

had yet experienced, which lasted until the morning. Fortunately the tent was well secured with four powerful

stormropes fastened from the top of the pole, and pinned about twentyfive yards from the base to iron bars

driven deep into the hard ground; but the night was passed in the discomforts of a deluge that, driven by the

hurricane, swept through the tent, which threatened every minute to desert us in shreds. On the following

morning the storm had passed away, and the small tent had done likewise, having been blown down and

carried many yards from the spot where it had been pitched. Mahomet, who was the occupant, had found

himself suddenly enveloped in wet canvas, from which he had emerged like a frog in the storm. There was no

time to be lost in completing my permanent camp; I therefore sent for the sheik of the village, and proceeded

to purchase a house. I accompanied him through the narrow lanes of Sofi, and was quickly shown a

remarkably neat house, which I succeeded in purchasing from the owner for the sum of ten piastres (two

shillings). This did not seem an extravagant outlay for a neat dwelling with a sound roof; neither were there

any legal expenses in the form of conveyance, as in that happy and practical land the simple form of

conveyance is the transportation of the house (the roof) upon the shoulders of about thirty men, and thus it is

conveyed to any spot that the purchaser may consider desirable. Accordingly, our mansion was at once seized

by a crowd of Arabs, and carried off in triumph, while the sticks that formed the wall were quickly arranged

upon the site I had chosen for our camp. In the short space of about three hours I found myself the proprietor

of an eligible freehold residence, situated upon an eminence in parklike grounds, commanding extensive

and romantic views of the beautifullywooded valley of the Atbara, within a minute's walk of the

neighbouring village of Sofi, perfect immunity from all poorrates, tithes, taxes, and other public burthens,

not more than 2,000 miles from a church, with the advantage of a posttown at the easy distance of seventy

leagues. The manor comprised the right of shooting throughout the parishes of Ahyssinia and Soudan,

plentifully stocked with elephants, lions, rhinoceroses, giraffes, buffaloes, hippopotami, leopards, and a great

variety of antelopes; while the right of fishing extended throughout the Atbara and neighbouring rivers, that

were well stocked with fish ranging from five to a hundred and fifty pounds; also with turtles and crocodiles.

The mansion comprised entrancehall, diningroom, drawingroomn, lady's boudoir, library,

breakfastroom, bedroom and dressingroom (with the great advantage of their combination in one circular

room fourteen feet in diameter). The architecture was of an ancient style, from the original design of a

Thus might my estate have been described by an English estate agent and auctioneer, with a better foundation

I purchased two additional huts, one of which was erected at the back (if a circle has a back) of our mansion,

as the kitchen, while the other at a greater distance formed the "servants' hall." We all worked hard for several

days in beautifying our house and grounds. In the lovely short grass that resembled green velvet, we cut

walks to the edge of a declivity, and surrounded the house with a path of snowwhite sand, resembling

coarsely pounded sugar; this we obtained from some decomposed sandstone rock which crumbled upon the

slightest pressure. We collected curiouslyshaped blocks of rock, and masses of fossil wood that were

imbedded in the sandstone; these we formed into borders for our walks, and opposite to our front door (there

was no back door) we arranged a halfcircle or "carriagedrive," of white sand, to the extreme edge of the

declivity, which we bordered with large rocks; one of which I believe may remain to this day, as I carried it to

the spot to form a seat, and my vanity was touched by the fact that it required two Arabs to raise it from the

ground. I made a rustic table of split bamboos, and two garden seats opposite the entrance of the house, and

we collected a number of wild plants and bulbs which we planted in little beds; we also sowed the seeds of

In the course of a week we had formed as pretty a camp as Robinson Crusoe himself could have coveted; but

he, poor unfortunate, had only his man Friday to assist him, while in our arrangements there were many

charms and indescribable little comforts that could only be effected by a lady's hand. Not only were our

walks covered with snowwhite sand and the borders ornamented with beautiful agates that we had collected

in the neighbourhood, but the interior of our house was the perfection of neatness: the floor was covered with

white sand beaten firmly together to the depth of about six inches; the surface was swept and replaced with

fresh material daily; the travelling bedsteads, with their bright green mosquito curtains, stood by either side,

affording a clear space in the centre of the circle, while exactly opposite the door stood the gunrack, with as

One double gun, No. 10, by Purdey, belonging to Mr. Oswell, of South African celebrity.

One single rifle that carried a halfpouud explosive shell, by Holland of Bond Street; this was nicknamed by

the Arabs "Jenna el Mootfah" (child of a cannon), and for the sake of brevity I called it the "Baby."

My revolver and a brace of doublebarrelled pistols hung upon the wall, which, although the exterior of the

house was straw, we had lined with the bright coloured canvas of the tent. Suspended by loops were little

ornamental baskets worked by the Arabs, that contained a host of useful articles, such as needles, thread, and

the remaining surface was hung with hunting knives, fishing lines, and a variety of instruments belonging to

the chase. A travelling table, with maps and a few books, stood against the wall, and one more article

completed our furniture,an exceedingly neat toilet table, the base of which was a flattopped portmanteau,

concealed by a cunning device of chintz and muslin; this, covered with the usual arrangement of brushes,

mirror, scentbottles, threw an air of civilization over the establishment, which was increased by the presence

of an immense spongingbath, that, being flat and circular, could be fitted underneath a bed. In the draught of

air next the door stood our filter in a wooden frame, beneath which was a porous jar that received and cooled

Our camp was a perfect model; we had a view of about five miles in extent along the valley of the Atbara,

and it was my daily amusement to scan with my telescope the uninhabited country upon the opposite side of

the river, and watch the wild animals as they grazed in perfect security. I regret that at that time I did not

smoke; in the cool of the evening we used to sit by the bamboo table outside the door of our house, and drink

our coffee in perfect contentment amidst the beautiful scene of a tropical sunset and the deep shadows in the

valley; but a pipe! the long "chibbook" of the Turk would have made our home a Paradise! Nevertheless

we were thoroughly happy at Sofi;there was a delightful calm, and a sense of rest; a total estrangement

from the cares of the world, and an enchanting contrast in the soft green verdure of the landscape before us to

the many hundred weary miles of burning desert through which we had toiled from Lower Egypt. In those

barren tracts, the eye had become so accustomed to sterility and yellow sand, that it had appeared impossible

to change the scene, and Africa afforded no prospect beyond the blank hitherto shown upon the chart of the

interior; we were now in a land of rich pastures, and apparently in another world, after the toil of a hard

While we were enjoying a few months' repose, the elements were hard at work. Every day, without

exception, and generally for several hours of the night, the lightning flashed and thunder roared with little

intermission, while the rain poured in such torrents that the entire country became perfectly impassable, with

the exception of the hard ground of the Atbara valley. The rich loam of the table land had risen like leavened

dough, and was kneedeep in adhesive mud; the grass upon this surface grew with such rapidity that in a few

weeks it reached a height of nine or ten feet. The mud rushed in torrents down the countless watercourses,

which were now in their greatest activity in hurrying away the fertile soil of Egypt; and the glorious Atbara

TIME glided away smoothly at our camp amidst the storms of the rainy season. The Arabs had nothing to do,

and suffered much from the absence of their herds, as there was a great scarcity of milk. The only animals

that had not been sent to the north were a few goats; these were so teased by the flies that they produced but a

small supply. Fever had appeared at the same time with the flies, and every one was suffering more or less,

especially Florian, who was seriously ill. I was in full practice as physician, and we congratulated ourselves

upon the healthiness of our little isolated camp, when suddenly my wife was prostrated by a severe attack of

gastric fever, which for nine days rendered her recovery almost hopeless. At length the fever gave way to

careful attendance, and my Arab patients and Florian were also in a fair way towards recovery. The plagues

of Egypt were upon us; the common houseflies were in billions, in addition to the cattletormentor. Our

donkeys would not graze, but stood day and night in the dense smoke of fires, made of sticks and green grass,

The plague of boils broke out, and every one was attacked more or less severely. Then came a plague of

which Moses must have been ignorant, or he would surely have inflicted it upon Pharaoh. This was a species

of itch, which affected all ages and both sexes equally; it attacked all parts of the body, but principally the

extremities. The irritation was beyond description; small vesicles rose above the skin, containing a watery

fluid, which, upon bursting, appeared to spread the disease. The Arabs had no control over this malady,

which they called "coorash," and the whole country was scratching. The popular belief attributed the disease

to the water of the Atbara at this particular season: although a horrible plague, I do not believe it to have any

I adopted a remedy that I had found a specific for mange in dogs, and this treatment became equally

successful in cases of coorash. Gunpowder, with the addition of onefourth of sulphur, made into a soft paste

with water, and then formed into an ointment with fat: this should be rubbed over the whole body. The effect

upon a black man is that of a wellcleaned bootupon a white man it is still more striking; but it quickly

cures the malady. I went into half mourning by this process, and I should have adopted deep mourning had it

been necessary; I was only attacked from the feet to a little above the knees. Florian was in a dreadful state,

and the vigorous and peculiar action of his arms at once explained the origin of the term "Scotch fiddle," the

The Arabs are wretchedly ignorant of the healing art, and they suffer accordingly. At least fifty per cent. of

the population in Sofi had a permanent enlargement of the spleen, which could be felt with a slight pressure

of the hand, frequently as large as an orange; this was called "Jenna el Wirde" (child of the fever), and was

Faith is the drug that is supposed to cure the Arab; whatever his complaint may be, he applies to his Faky or

priest. This minister is not troubled with a confusion of booklearning, neither are the shelves of his library

bending beneath weighty treatises upon the various maladies of human nature; but he possesses the key to all

learning, the talisman that will apply to all cases, in that one holy book the Koran. This is his complete

pharmacopoeia: his medicine chest, combining purgatives, blisters, sudorifics, styptics, narcotics, emetics,

and all that the most profound M.D. could prescribe. With this "multum in parvo" stockintrade the Faky

receives his patients. No. 1 arrives, a barren woman who requests some medicine that will promote the

blessing of childbirth. No. 2, a man who was strong in his youth, but from excessive dissipation has become

useless. No. 3, a man deformed from his birth, who wishes to become straight as other men. No. 4, a blind

child. No. 5, a dying old woman, carried on a litter; and sundry other impossible cases, with others of a more

The Faky produces his book, the holy Koran, and with a pen formed of a reed he proceeds to write a

prescription; not to be made up by an apothecary, as such dangerous people do not exist, but the prescription

itself is to be SWALLOWED! Upon a smooth board, like a slate, he rubs sufficient lime to produce a

perfectly white surface; upon this he writes in large characters, with thick glutinous ink, a verse or verses

from the Koran that he considers applicable to the case; this completed, he washes off the holy quotation, and

converts it into a potation by the addition of a little water; this is swallowed in perfect faith by the patient,

who in return pays a fee according to the demand of the Faky. Of course it cannot be supposed that this

effects a cure, or that it is in any way superior to the prescriptions of a thoroughbred English doctor; the

only advantage possessed by the system is complete innocence, in which it may perhaps claim superiority. If

no good result is attained by the first holy dose, the patient returns with undiminished confidence, and the

prescription is repeated as "the draught as before," well known to the physicdrinkers of England, and in like

manner attended with the bill. The fakeers make a considerable amount by this simple practice, and they add

As few people can read or write, there is an air of mystery in the art of writing which much enhances the

value of a scrap of paper upon which is written a verse from the Koran. A few piastres are willingly expended

in the purchase of such talismans, which are carefully and very neatly sewn into small envelopes of leather,

The Arabs are especially fond of relics; thus, upon the return from a pilgrimage to Mecca, the "hadji," or

pilgrim, is certain to have purchased from some religious Faky of the sacred shrine either a few square inches

of cloth, or some such trifle, that belonged to the prophet Mahomet. This is exhibited to his friends and

strangers as a wonderful spell against some particular malady, and it is handed about and received with

extreme reverence by the assembled crowd. I once formed one of a circle when a pilgrim returned to his

native village: we sat in a considerable number upon the ground, while he drew from his bosom a leather

envelope, suspended from his neck, from which he produced a piece of extremely greasy woollen cloth, about

three inches square, the original colour of which it would have been impossible to guess. This was a piece of

Mahomet's garment, but what portion he could not say. The pilgrim had paid largely for this blessed relic,

and it was passed round our circle from hand to hand, after having first been kissed by the proprietor, who

raised it to the crown of his head, which he touched with the cloth, and then wiped both his eyes. Each person

who received it went through a similar performance, and as ophthalmia and other diseases of the eyes were

extremely prevalent, several of the party had eyes that had not the brightness of the gazelle's; nevertheless,

these were supposed to become brighter after having been wiped by the holy cloth. How many eyes this same

piece of cloth had wiped it would be impossible to say, but such facts are sufficient to prove the danger of

I believe in holy shrines as the pest spots of the world. We generally have experienced in Western Europe

that all violent epidemics arrive from the East. The great breadth of the Atlantic boundary would naturally

protect us from the West, but infectious disorders, such as plague, cholera, smallpox, may be generally

tracked throughout their gradations from their original nests; those nests are in the East, where the heat of the

The holy places of both Christians and Mahometans are the receptacles for the masses of people of all nations

and classes who have arrived from all points of the compass; the greater number of such people are of poor

estate; many, who have toiled on foot from immense distances, suffering from hunger and fatigue, and

bringing with them not only the diseases of their own remote countries, but arriving in that weak state that

courts the attack of any epidemic. Thus crowded together, with a scarcity of provisions, a want of water, and

no possibility of cleanliness, with clothes that have been unwashed for weeks or months, in a camp of dirty

pilgrims, without any attempt at drainage, an accumulation of filth takes place that generates either cholera or

typhus; the latter, in its most malignant form, appears as the dreaded "plague." Should such an epidemic

attack the mass of pilgrims debilitated by the want of nourishing food, and exhausted by their fatiguing

march, it runs riot like a fire among combustibles, and the loss of life is terrific. The survivors radiate from

this common centre, upon their return to their respective homes, to which they carry the seeds of the

pestilence to germinate upon new soils in different countries. Doubtless the clothes of the dead furnish

materials for innumerable holy relics as vestiges of the wardrobe of the Prophet; these are disseminated by

the pilgrims throughout all countries, pregnant with disease; and, being brought into personal contact with

Not only are relics upon a pocket scale conveyed by pilgrims, and reverenced by the Arabs, but the body of

any Faky, who in lifetime was considered extra holy, is brought from a great distance to be interred in some

particular spot. In countries where a tree is a rarity, a plank for a coffin is unknown; thus the reverend Faky,

who may have died of typhus, is wrapped in cloths and packed in a mat. In this form he is transported,

perhaps, some hundred miles, slung upon a camel, with the thermometer above 130 degrees Fahr. in the sun,

and he is conveyed to the village that is so fortunate as to be honoured with his remains. It may be readily

imagined that with a favourable wind, the inhabitants are warned of his approach some time before his

arrival. Happily, long before we arrived at Sofi, the village had been blessed by the death of a celebrated

Faky, a holy man who would have been described as a second Isaiah were the annals of the country duly

chronicled. This great "man of God," as he was termed, had departed this life at a village on the borders of

the Nile, about eight days' hard cameljourney from Sofi; but from some assumed right, mingled no doubt

with jobbery, the inhabitants of Sofi had laid claim to his body, and he had arrived upon a camel horizontally,

and had been buried about fifty yards from our present camp. His grave was beneath a clump of mimosas that

shaded the spot, and formed the most prominent object in the foreground of our landscape. Thither every

Friday the women of the village congregated, with offerings of a few handfuls of dhurra in small

gourdshells, which they laid upon the grave, while they ATE THE HOLY EARTH in small pinches, which

they scraped like rabbits, from a hole they had burrowed towards the venerated corpse; this hole was about

Although bamboos did not grow in Sofi, great numbers were brought down by the river during the rains;

these were eagerly collected by the Arabs, and the grave of the Faky was ornamented with selected

specimens, upon which were hung small pieces of raglike banners. The people could not explain why they

were thus ornamented, but I imagine the custom had originated from the necessity of scaring the wild animals

Although the grave of this revered Faky was considered a sacred spot, the women had a curious custom that

we should not consider an honour to the sanctity of the place: they met in parties beneath the shade of the

mimosas that covered the grave, for the express purpose of freeing each other's heads from vermin; the

creatures thus caught, instead of being killed, were turned loose upon the Faky.

Although the Arabs in places remote from the immediate action of the Egyptian authorities are generally

lawless, they are extremely obedient to their own sheiks, and especially to the fakeers: thus it is important to

secure such heads of the people as friends. My success as a physician had gained me many friends, as I

studiously avoided the acceptance of any present in return for my services, which I wished them to receive as

simple acts of kindness; thus I had placed the Sheik Hassan bel Kader under an obligation, by curing him of a

fever; and as he chanced to combine in his own person the titles of both sheik and faky, I had acquired a great

ascendency in the village, as my medicines had proved more efficacious than the talismans. "Physician, cure

thyself," applied to the Faky, who found three grains of my tartar emetic more powerful than a whole chapter

We frequently had medical discussions, and the contents of my large medicinechest were examined with

wonder by a curious crowd; the simple effect of mixing a seidlitz powder was a source of astonishment; but a

few drops of sulphuric acid upon a piece of strong cotton cloth which it destroyed immediately, was a miracle

that invested the medicinechest with a specific character for all diseases. The Arab style of doctoring is

rather rough. If a horse or other animal has inflammation, they hobble the legs and throw it upon the ground,

after which operation a number of men kick it in the belly until it is relieved(by death). Should a man be

attacked with fever, his friends prescribe a system of diet, in addition to the Koran of the Faky: he is made to

drink, as hot as he can swallow it, about a quart of melted sheep's fat or butter. Young dogs, as a cure for

distemper, are thrown from the roof of a house to the grounda height of about ten feet. One night we were

sitting at dinner, when we suddenly heard a great noise, and the air was illumined by the blaze of a hut on

fire. In the midst of the tumult I heard the unmistakeable cries of dogs, and thinking that they were unable to

escape from the fire, I ran towards the spot. As I approached, first one and then another dog ran screaming

from the flames, until a regular pack of about twenty scorched animals appeared in quick succession, all half

mad with fright and fire. I was informed that hydrophobia was very prevalent in the country, and that the

certain preventive from that frightful malady was to make all the dogs of the village pass through the fire.

Accordingly an old hut had been filled with straw and fired; after which, each dog was brought by its owner

and thrown into the flames. Upon another occasion I heard a great yelling and commotion, and I found

Mahomet's "mother's brother's cousin's sister's mother's son," Achmet, struggling on the ground, and nearly

overpowered by a number of Arabs, who were determined to operate upon a large boil in his groin, which

they had condemned to be squeezed, although it was not in a state that admitted of such treatment. The

patient was biting and kicking liberally on all sides in selfdefence, and his obstinate surgeons could hardly

Syphilis is common throughout the country, and there are several varieties of food that are supposed to effect

a cure. A sheep is killed, and the entire flesh is cooked with the fat, being cut into small pieces and baked in a

pot; several pounds of butter or other grease are then boiled, and in that state are poured into the jars

containing the baked meat; the patient is then shut up by himself in a hut with this large quantity of fat food,

with which he is to gorge himself until the whole is consumed. Another supposed cure for the same disease is

a pig dressed in a similar manner, which meat, although forbidden by the Koran, may be taken medicinally.

The flesh of the crocodile is eaten greedily, being supposed to promote desire. There are few animals that the

Arabs of the Nubian provinces will refuse; the wild boar is invariably eaten by the Arab hunters, although in

direct opposition to the rules of the Koran. I once asked them what their Faky would say if he were aware of

such a transgression. "Oh !" they replied, "we have already asked his permission, as we are sometimes

severely pressed for food in the jungles; he says, 'If you have the KORAN in your hand and NO PIG, you are

forbidden to eat pork; but if you have the PIG in your hand and NO KORAN, you had better eat what God

This is a charming example of simplicity in theological discussion that might perhaps be followed with

advantage in graver questions; we might cease to strain at the gnats and swallow our pigs.

I had an audience of a party of hunters whom I had long wished to meet. Before my arrival at Sofi I had heard

of a particular tribe of Arabs that inhabited the country south of Cassala, between that town and the Base

country; these were the Hamrans, who were described as the most extraordinary Nimrods, who hunted and

kiled all wild animals, from the antelope to the elephant, with no other weapon than the sword; the lion and

the rhinoceros fell alike before the invincible sabres of these mighty hunters, to whom as an old

From the manner in which their exploits had been hitherto explained to me, I could not understand how it

could be possible to kill an elephant with the sword, unless the animal should be mobbed by a crowd of men

and hacked to death, but I was assured that the most savage elephant had no chance upon good riding ground,

against four aggageers (as the hunters with the sword are designated). I had determined to engage a party of

these hunters to accompany me throughout my exploration of the Abyssinian rivers at the proper season,

when I should have an excellent opportunity of combining sport with an examination of the country. My

The Hamran Arabs are distinguished from the other tribes by an extra length of hair, worn parted down the

centre, and arranged in long curls; otherwise there is no perceptible difference in their appearance from other

Arabs. They are armed, as are all others, with swords and shields; the latter are circular, and are generally

formed of rhinoceros hide. There are two forms of shields used by the various tribes of Arabs: one is a narrow

oval, about four feet in length, of either bull's or buffalo's hide, stiffened by a strong stick which passes down

the centre; the other is circular, about two feet in diameter, with a projection in the centre as a protection for

the hand. When laid flat upon the ground, the shield somewhat resembles an immensely broadbrimmed hat,

with a low crown terminating in a point. In the inside of the crown is a strong bar of leather as a grip for the

hand, while the outside is generally guarded by a strip of the scaly hide of a crocodile.

The skins most prized for shields are those of the giraffe and the rhinoceros; those of the buffalo and elephant

are likewise in genera] use, but they are considered inferior to the former, while the hide of the hippopotamus

The hide of the giraffe is wonderfully tough, and combines the great advantage of extreme lightness with

strength. The Arabs never ornament their shields; they are made for rough and actual service, and the gashes

Although there are two patterns of shields among the Arabs, there is no difference in the form of their swords,

which simply vary in size according to the strength of the wearer. The blade is long and straight, twoedged,

with a simple cross handle, having no other guard for the hand than the plain bar, which at right angles with

the hilt forms the cross. I believe this form was adopted after the Crusades, when the long, straight,

crosshandled blades of the Christian knights left an impression behind them that established the fashion. All

these blades are manufactured at Sollingen, and are exported to Egypt for the trade of the interior. Of course

they differ in quality and price, but they are of excellent temper. The Arabs are extremely proud of a good

sword, and a blade of great value is carefully handed down through many generations. The sheiks and

principal people wear silverhilted swords. The scabbards are usually formed of two thin strips of elastic but

soft wood, covered with leather. No Arab would accept a metal scabbard, as it would destroy the keen edge

of his weapon. The greatest care is taken in sharpening the swords. While on the march, the Arab carries his

weapon slung on the pommel of his saddle, from which it passes beneath his thigh. There are two projecting

pieces of leather, about twelve inches apart, upon the scabbard, between which the thigh of the horseman fits,

and thus prevents the sword from slipping from its place. Carried in this position at full speed, there is an

absence of that absurd dangling and jumping of the sword that is exhibited in our British cavalry, and the

weapon seems to form a portion of the rider. The first action of an Arab when he dismounts at a halt upon the

march, and sits beneath a tree, is to draw his sword; and after trying both edges with his thumb, he carefully

strops the blade to and fro upon his shield until a satisfactory proof of the edge is made by shaving the hair

off his arm, after which it is returned to the sheath. I have measured these swords; that of a fair average size is

three feet in the length of blade, and one inch and seveneighths in breadth; the hilt, from the top of the guard

to the extremity, five and a half inches. Thus the sword complete would be about three feet five or six inches.

Such a weapon possesses immense power, as the edge is nearly as sharp as a razor. But the Arabs have not

the slightest knowledge of swordsmanship; they never parry with the blade, but trust entirely to the shield,

and content themselves with slashing either at their adversary or at the animal that he rides; one good cut

delivered by a powerful arm would sever a man at the waist like a carrot. The Arabs are not very powerful

men; they are extremely light and active, and generally average about five feet eight inches in height. But

their swords are far too heavy for their strength; and although they can deliver a severe cut, they cannot

recover the sword sufficiently quick to parry, therefore they are contented with the shield as their only guard.

If opposed to a good swordsman they would be perfectly at his mercy, as a feint at the head causes them to

raise the shield; this prevents them from seeing the point, that would immediately pass through the body.

Notwithstanding their deficiency in the art of the sword, they are wonderful fellows to cut and slash; and

when the sharp edge of the heavy weapon touches an enemy, the effect is terrible.

The elephanthunters, or aggageers, exhibited their swords, which differed in no respect from those usually

worn; but they were bound with cord very closely from the guard for about nine inches along the blade, to

enable them to be grasped by the right hand, while the hilt was held by the left; the weapon was thus

converted into a twohanded sword. The scabbards were strengthened by an extra covering, formed of the

In a long conversation with these men, I found a corroboration of all that I had previously heard of their

exploits, and they described the various methods of killing the elephant with the sword. Those hunters who

could not afford to purchase horses hunted on foot, in parties not exceeding two persons. Their method was to

follow the tracks of an elephant, so as to arrive at their game between the hours of 10 A.M. and noon, at

which time the animal is either asleep, or extremely listless, and easy to approach. Should they discover the

animal asleep, one of the hunters would creep stealthily towards the head, and with one blow sever the trunk

while stretched upon the ground; in which case the elephant would start upon his feet, while the hunters

escaped in the confusion of the moment. The trunk severed would cause an haemorrhage sufficient to insure

the death of the elephant within about an hour. On time other hand, should the animal be awake upon their

arrival, it would be impossible to approach the trunk; in such a case, they would creep up from behind, and

give a tremendous cut at the back sinew of the hind leg, about a foot above the heel. Such a blow would

disable the elephant at once, and would render comparatively easy a second cut to the remaining leg; the

arteries being divided, the animal would quickly bleed to death. These were the methods adopted by poor

hunters, until, by the sale of ivory, they could purchase horses for the higher branch of the art. Provided with

horses, the party of hunters should not exceed four. They start before daybreak, and ride slowly throughout

the country in search of elephants, generally keeping along the course of a river until they come upon the

tracks where a herd or a single elephant may have drunk during the night. When once upon the tracks, they

follow fast towards the retreating game. The elephants may be twenty miles distant; but it matters little to the

aggageers. At length they discover them, and the hunt begins. The first step is to single out the bull with the

largest tusks; this is the commencement of the fight. After a short hunt, the elephant turns upon his pursuers,

who scatter and fly from his headlong charge until he gives up the pursuit; he at length turns to bay when

again pressed by the hunters. It is the duty of one man in particular to ride up close to the head of the

elephant, and thus to absorb its attention upon himself. This insures a desperate charge. The greatest coolness

and dexterity are then required by the hunter, who now, the HUNTED, must so adapt the speed of his horse to

the pace of the elephant, that the enraged beast gains in the race until it almost reaches the tail of the horse. In

this manner the race continues. In the meantime, two hunters gallop up behind the elephant, unseen by the

animal, whose attention is completely directed to the horse almost within his grasp. With extreme agility,

when close to the heels of the elephant, one of the hunters, while at full speed, springs to the ground with his

drawn sword, as his companion seizes the bridle, and with one dexterous twohanded blow he severs the

back sinew. He immediately jumps out of the way and remounts his horse; but if the blow is successful, the

elephant becomes disabled by the first pressure of its foot upon the ground; the enormous weight of the

animal dislocates the joint, and it is rendered helpless. The hunter who has hitherto led the elephant

immediately turns, and riding to within a few feet of the trunk, he induces the animal to attempt another

charge. This, clumsily made, affords an easy opportunity for the aggageers behind to slash the sinew of the

remaining leg, and the immense brute is reduced to a standstill; it dies of loss of blood in a short time, THUS

This extraordinary hunting is attended with superlative danger, and the hunters frequently fall victims to their

intrepidity. I felt inclined to take off my cap and make a low bow to the gallant and swarthy fellows who sat

before me, when I knew the toughness of their hearts and the activity of their limbs. One of them was

disabled for life by a cut from his own sword, that had severed the kneecap and bitten deep into the joint,

leaving a scar that appeared as though the leg had been nearly off; he had missed his blow at the elephant,

owing to the high and tough dried grass that had partially stopped the sword, and in springing upon one side,

to avoid the animal that had turned upon him, he fell over his own sharp blade, which cut through the bone,

and he lay helpless; he was saved by one of his comrades, who immediately rushed in from behind, and with

a desperate cut severed the back sinew of the elephant. As I listened to these fine fellows, who in a modest

and unassuming manner recounted their adventures as matters of course, I felt exceedingly small. My whole

life had been passed in wild sports from early manhood, and I had imagined that I understood as much as

most people of this subject; but here were men who, without the aid of the best rifles and deadly projectiles,

went straight at their game, and faced the lion in his den with shield and sabre. There is a freemasonry among

hunters, and my heart was drawn towards these aggageers. We fraternised upon the spot, and I looked

I have been rewarded by this alliance in being now able to speak of the deeds of others that far excel my own,

and of bearing testimony to the wonderful courage and dexterity of these Nimrods, instead of continually

relating anecdotes of dangers in the first person, which cannot be more disagreeable to the reader than to the

Without inflicting a description of five months passed in Sofi, it will be necessary to make a few extracts

from my journal, to convey an idea of the manner in which the time was occupied.

"August 7, 1861.There is plenty of game on the other side of the river, but nothing upon this; there are no

means of crossing, as the stream is exceedingly strong, and about two hundred yards in width. We felled a

tree for a canoe, but there is nothing worthy of the name of timber, and the wood is extremely heavy.

"There are several varieties of wild spinach, and a plant that makes a good salad, known by the Arabs as

"Angust 8.I counted seventysix giraffes on the opposite side of the river. This magnificent sight is most

tantalizing. The sheik made his appearance today with a present of butter and honey, and some small money

in exchange for dollars that I had given him. The Austrian dollar of Maria Theresa is the only large coin

current in this country; the effigy of the empress, with a very low dress and a profusion of bust, is, I believe,

the charm that suits the Arab taste. So particular are these people, that they reject the coin after careful

examination, unless they can distinctly count seven dots that form the star upon the coronet. No clean money

will pass current in this country; all coins must be dirty and gummy, otherwise they are rejected: this may be

accounted for, as the Arabs have no method of detecting false money; thus they are afraid to accept any new

"Auqust 16.Great failure! We launched the canoe, but although it was carefully hollowed out, the wood

was so heavy that it would only carry one person, and even then it threatened to become a bathingmachine;

thus nine days' hard work are lost. Florian is in despair, but 'Nil desperandum!' I shall set to work instanter,

and make a raft. Counted twentyeight giraffes on the opposite side of the river.

"August 17.I set to work at daybreak to make a raft of bamboo and inflated skins. There is a wood called

ambatch (Anemone mirabilis) that is brought down by the river from the upper country; this is lighter than

cork, and I have obtained four large pieces for my raft. Mahomet has been very saucy today; he has been

"August 18.Launched the raft; it carries four persons safely; but the current is too strong, and it is therefore

unmanageable. In the afternoon I shot a large crocodile on the other side of the river (about two hundred

yards) with the little Fletcher rifle, and after struggling for some time upon the steep bank it rolled into the

"The large tamarind trees on the opposite bank are generally full of the dogfaced baboons (Cynocephalus) in

the evening, at their drinkinghour. I watched a large crocodile creep slyly out of the water, and lie in waiting

among the rocks at the usual drinkingplace before they arrived, but the baboons were too wide awake to be

taken in so easily. A young fellow was the first to discover the enemy; he had accompanied several wise and

experienced old hands, to the extremity of the bough that at a considerable height overhung the river; from

this post they had a bird'seye view, and reconnoitred before one of the numerous party descended to drink.

The sharp eyes of the young one at once detected the crocodile, who matched in colour so well with the

rocks, that most probably a man would not have noticed it until too late. At once the young one commenced

shaking the bough and screaming with all his might to attract the attention of the crocodile, and to induce it to

move. In this he was immediately joined by the whole party, who yelled in chorus, while the large old males

bellowed defiance, and descended to the lowest branches within eight or ten feet of the crocodile. It was of no

usethe pretender never stirred, and I watched it until dark; it remained still inn the same place, waiting for

some unfortunate baboon whose thirst might provoke his fate; but not one was sufficiently foolish, although

the perpendicular banks prevented them from drinking except at that particular spot.

"The birds in this country moult twice during the year, and those of the most brilliant colours exchange their

gaudy hues for a sober grey or brown. Several varieties sing beautifully; the swallow also sings, although in

"One of the mimosas yields an excellent fibre for ropemaking, in which my people are busily engaged; the

bark is as tough as leather, and forms an admirable material for the manufacture of sacks. This business is

carried to a considerable extent by the Arabs, as there is a large demand for sacks of sufficient size to contain

two hundred and fifty or three hundred pounds of gum arabic (half a camel load). Thus one sack slung upon

"August 19.A dead elephant floated down the river today: this is the second that has passed within the

last few days; they have been most probably drowned in attempting to cross some powerful torrent tributary

to the Atbara. As usual, upon the fact becoming known, the entire village rushed out, and, despite the

crocodiles, a crowd of men plunged into the river about a quarter of a mile below Sofi, and swimming out

they intercepted the swollen carcase, which was quickly covered with people; they were carried several miles

down the river before they could tow the body to shore, by ropes fastened to the swimmers. Afterwards, there

was a general quarrel over the division of the spoil: the skin, in sections, and the tusks, were brought home in

"The country being now bright green, the antelopes are distinctly visible on the opposite side. Three tetel

(Antelopus Bubalis) graze regularly together in the same place daily. This antelope is a variety of the

hartebeest of South Africa; it is a reddishchestnut colour, and is about the size of an Alderney cow.

"One of the mimosas (Acacia Arabica) produces a fruit in appearance resembling a tamarind: this is a

powerful astringent and a valuable medicine in cases of fever and diarrhoea; it is generally used by the Arabs

for preparing hides; when dry and broken it is rich in a hard gum, which appears to be almost pure tannin.

"August 20.Close, hot, and damp weather; violent rain about sixteen hours out of the twentyfour. When

the hot season sets in, the country will almost boil. This morning I counted 154 giraffes in one herd on the

other side of the river; there were many more, but they passed each other so rapidly that I could not reckon

"August 21.I counted 103 giraffes. There is literally no game upon this side (west) of the Atbara, as the

country for twelve hours' journey from Sofi is thronged with Arabs during the dry season.

"All my people are more or less ill; I am not very well myself; but I have staved off an attack of fever by

"August 25.Such a magnificent sunset I have never seen! From all quarters were gathering storms of the

blackest description, each cloud emitting lightning without intermission, and as the sun touched the horizon

upon the only clear point, it illumined like a fire the pitchblack clouds, producing the most extraordinary

"Rain in torrents throughout the night. It is now impossible to walk on the flat table land, as the soil is so

saturated that it clings to the feet like birdlime, in masses that will pull the shoes off unless they fit tight. All

this immense tract of rich land would grow any amount of cotton, or wheat, as in this country the rain falls

with great regularitythis might be sent to Berber by boats during the season of flood.

"August 27.My antelope skins are just completed and are thoroughly tanned. Each skin required a double

handful of the 'garra,' or fruit of the Acacia Arabica. The process is simple: the skin being thoroughly wetted,

the garra is pounded into a paste; this is rubbed into the hide with a rough piece of sandstone, until it becomes

perfectly clean, and free from impurities; it is then wrapped up with a quantity of the paste, and is deposited

in a trough and kept in the shade for twentyfour hours. It should undergo a similar rubbing daily, and be

kept in the trough to soak in the garra for four or five days. After this process it should be well rubbed with

fat, if required to keep soft and pliable when wetted. If soaked in milk after tanning, the leather will become

waterproof. The large tanned oxhides used by the Arabs as coverlets are perfectly waterproof, and are

simply prepared with milk. These are made in Abyssinia, and can be purchased at from ten piastres to a dollar

each. The Arabs thoroughly appreciate the value of leather, as they are entirely dependent upon such material

for coverlets, watersacks, travelling bags, The sac de voyage is a simple skin of either goat or sheep drawn

off the animal as a stocking is drawn from the leg; this is very neatly ornamented, and arranged with loops

which close the mouth, secured by a padlock. Very large sacks, capable of containing three hundred pounds

of corn, are made in the same manner by drawing off entire the skins of the larger antelopesthat of the tetel

is considered the most valuable for this purpose. The hide of the wild ass is the finest of all leather, and is so

close in the grain that before tanning, when dry and hardened in the sun, it resembles horn in transparency. I

have made excellent mocassins with this skin, which are admirable if kept wetted.

"August 28.Sofi being upon the frontier, the laws are merely nominal; accordingly there is an interesting

mixture in the society. Should any man commit a crime in Abyssinia, he takes refuge over the border; thus

criminals of the blackest character are at large. One fellow who has paid us daily visits killed his brother with

a knife a few months since. I have excluded this gentleman from the select circle of our acquaintance.

"The Arab women are very clever in basketwork and mattingthey carry their milk in baskets that are so

closely fitted as to be completely watertight; these are made of the leaves of the dome palm, shred into fine

strips. In addition to the coarse matting required for their tents, they manufacture very fine sleeping mats,

curiously arranged in various coloured patterns; these are to cover the angareps, or native bedsteads, which

are simple frameworks upon legs, covered with a network of raw hide worked in a soft state, after which it

hardens to the tightness of a drum when thoroughly dry. No bed is more comfortable for a warm climate than

a native angarep with a simple mat covering; it is beautifully elastic, and is always cool, as free ventilation is

permitted from below. I have employed the Arab women to make me a huntingcap of the basketwork of

"August 28.I have been busily employed in putting new soles to my shoes, having cut up the leather cover

of a guncase for material. No person can walk barefooted in this country, as the grass is armed with thorns.

A peculiar species, that resembles a vetch, bears a circular pod as large as a horsebean; the exterior of the

pod is armed with long and sharp spikes like the head of an ancient mace; these pods when ripe are

exceedingly hard, and falling to the ground in great numbers, the spikes will pierce the sole of any shoe

"August 29.Florian is very ill with fever. The mosquitoes are so troublesome that the Arabs cannot sleep in

their huts, but are forced to arrange platforms about six feet high, upon which the whole family rest until they

are awakened by a sudden thunderstorm, and are compelled to rush into their huts;this has been the case

"I find that the whole village has been trying on my new huntingcap, that an Arab woman has just

completed; this was brought to me today, thick with butter and dirt from their greasy pates. This is a trifle:

yesterday Florian was ill and required some tea; his servant tried the degree of heat by plunging his dirty

"Shortly after our wild Arab lad, Bacheet, was engaged, we drilled him as table servant. The flies were very

troublesome, and continually committed suicide by drowning themselves in the tea. One morning during

breakfast there were many cases of felo de se, or 'temporary insanity,' and my wife's teacup was full of

victims; Bacheet, wishing to be attentive, picked out the bodies with his finger and thumb!'Now, my good

fellow, Bacheet,' I exclaimed, 'you really must not put your dirty fingers in the tea: you should take them out

with the teaspoon. Look here,' and I performed the operation, and safely landed several flies that were still

kicking. 'But mind, Bacheet,' I continued, 'that you wipe the teaspoon first, to be sure that it is clean!' On the

following morning at breakfast we covered up the cups with saucers to prevent accidents; but to our

astonishment Bacheet, who was in waiting, suddenly took a teaspoon from the table, wiped it carefully with

a corner of the tablecloth, and stooping down beneath the bed, most carefully saved from drowning, with the

teaspoon, several flies that were in the last extremity within a vessel by no means adapted for a spoon.

Perfectly satisfied with the result, he carefully rewiped the teaspoon upon the tablecloth, and replaced it in

its proper position. 'Oh Bacheet! Bacheet! you ignoramus, you extraordinary and impossible animal!'

However, there was no help for itthe boy thought he was doing the right thing exactly.

"September 1.The animals are worried almost to death by the countless flies, especially by that species that

drives the camels from the country. This peculiar fly is about the size of a wasp, with an orangecoloured

body, with black and white rings; the proboscis is terrific; it is double, and appears to be disproportioned,

being twothirds the length of the entire insect. When this fly attacks an animal, or man, it pierces the skin

instantaneously, like the prick of a redhot needle driven deep into the flesh, at the same time the insect

exerts every muscle of its body by buzzing with its wings as it buries the instrument to its greatest depth. The

blood starts from the wound immediately, and continues to flow for a considerable time; this is an attraction

to other flies in great numbers, many of which would lay their eggs upon the wound.

"I much prefer the intense heat of summer to the damp of the rainy season, which breeds all kinds of vermin.

During the hot season the nights are cool and delightful, there is not one drop of dew, and we live entirely in

the open air beneath the shade of a tree in the day, and under a roof of glittering stars at night. The guns never

rust, although lying upon the ground, and we are as independent as the antelopes of the desert, any bush

affording a home within its limit of shadow. During the rainy season hunting and travelling would be equally

impossible; the rifles would constantly miss fire. The mud is in most places kneedeep, and a malignant fever

would shortly settle the hunter. The rains cease early in September, after which we are to expect a complete

vapourbath until the end of October, by which time the fiery sun will have evaporated the moisture from the

"As this fertile country can depend upon three months' periodical rain, from the middle of June until

September there is no reason for unproductiveness; it would produce a large revenue if in industrious hands.

"September 2.For many days past we have seen large herds of giraffes and many antelopes on the opposite

side of the river, about two miles distant, on the borders of the Atbara, into which valley the giraffes

apparently dared not descend but remained on the table land, although the antelopes appearmed to prefer the

harder soil of the valley slopes. This day a herd of twentyeight giraffes tantalized me by descending a short

distance below the level flats, and I was tempted at all hazards across the river. Accordingly preparations

were immediately made for a start. The sheik of the village and several of the Arabs were hippopotami

hunters by profession; these fellows could swim like otters, and, despite the crocodiles, they seemed as much

at home in the water as on land. We prepared an impromptu raft. My angarep (bedstead) was quickly

inverted; six waterskins were inflated, and lashed, three on either side. A shallow packingcase, lined with

tin, containing my gun, was fastened in the centre of the angarep, and two towlines were attached to the

front part of the raft, by which swimmers were to draw it across the river. Two men were to hang on behind,

"The Arabs were full of mettle, as their minds were fixed upon giraffe venison. A number of people,

including my wife, climbed upon the mosquito platforms, to obtain a good view of the projected hunt, and we

quickly carried our raft to the edge of the river. There was not much delay in the launch. I stepped carefully

into my coffinshaped case, and squatted down, with a rifle on either side, and my ammunition at the bottom

of the tinlined waterproof case; thus, in case of an upset, I was ready for a swim. Off we went! The

current, running at nearly five miles an hour, carried us away at a great pace, and the whirlpools caused us

much trouble, as we several times waltzed round when we should have preferred a straight course, but the

towing swimmers being well mounted upon logs of light ambatchwood, swam across in fine style, and after

some difficulty we arrived at the opposite bank, and scrambled through thick bushes, upon our hands and

"For about two miles' breadth on this side of the river the valley is rough broken ground, full of gullies and

ravines sixty or seventy feet deep, beds of torrents, bare sandstone rocks, bushy crags, fine grassy knolls, and

"I had observed by the telescope that the giraffes were standing as usual upon an elevated position, from

whence they could keep a good lookout. I knew it would be useless to ascend the slope direct, as their long

necks give these animals an advantage similar to that of the man at the masthead; therefore, although we

had the wind in our favour, we should have been observed. I therefore determined to make a great circuit of

about five miles, and thus to approach them from above, with the advantage of the broken ground for

stalking. It was the perfection of uneven country: by clambering broken cliff, wading shoulderdeep through

muddy gullies, sliding down the steep ravines, and winding through narrow bottoms of high grass and

mimosas for about two hours, during which we disturbed many superb nellut (Ant. strepsiceros) and tetel

(Ant. Bubalis), we at length arrived at the point of the high table land upon the verge of which I had first

noticed the giraffes with the telescope. Almost immediately I distinguished the tall neck of one of these

splendid animals about half a mile distant upon my left, a little below the table land; it was feeding on the

bushes, and I quickly discovered several others near the leader of the herd. I was not far enough advanced in

the circuit that I had intended to bring me exactly above them, therefore I turned sharp to my right, intending

to make a short half circle, and to arrive on the leeward side of the herd, as I was now to windward: this I

fortunately completed, but I had marked a thick bush as my point of cover, and upon arrival I found that the

herd had fed down wind, and that I was within two hundred yards of the great bull sentinel that, having

moved from his former position, was now standing directly before me. I lay down quietly behind the bush

with my two followers, and anxiously watched the great leader, momentarily expecting that it would get my

wind. It was shortly joined by two others, and I perceived the heads of several giraffes lower down the

incline, that were now feeding on their way to the higher ground. The seroot fly was teasing them, and I

remarked that several birds were fluttering about their heads, sometimes perching upon their noses and

catching the fly that attacked their nostrils, while the giraffes appeared relieved by their attentions: these were

a peculiar species of bird that attacks the domestic animals, and not only relieves them of vermin, but eats

into the flesh, and establishes dangerous sores. A puff of wind now gently fanned the back of my neck; it was

cool and delightful, but no sooner did I feel the refreshing breeze than I knew it would convey our scent

direct to the giraffes. A few seconds afterwards, the three grand obelisks threw their heads still higher in the

air, and fixing their great black eyes upon the spot from which the danger came, they remained as motionless

as though carved from stone. From their great height they could see over the bush behind which we were

lying at some paces distant, and although I do not think they could distinguish us to be men, they could see

"The attitude of fixed attention and surprise of the three giraffes was sufficient warning for the rest of the

herd, who immediately filed up from the lower ground, and joined their comrades. All now halted, and gazed

steadfastly in our direction, forming a superb tableau; their beautiful mottled skins glancing like the summer

coat of a thoroughbred horse, the orangecoloured statues standing out in high relief from a background of

"This beautiful picture soon changed; I knew that my chance of a close shot was hopeless, as they would

presently make a rush, and be off; thus I determined to get the first start. I had previously studied the ground,

and I concluded that they would push forward at right angles with my position, as they had thus ascended the

hill, and that, on reaching the higher ground, they would turn to the right, in order to reach an immense tract

of high grass, as level as a billiardtable, from which no danger could approach them unobserved.

"I accordingly with a gentle movement of my hand directed my people to follow me, and I made a sudden

rush forward at full speed. Off went the herd; shambling along at a tremendous pace, whisking their long tails

above their hind quarters, and taking exactly the direction I had anticipated, they offered me a shoulder shot

at a little within two hundred yards' distance. Unfortunately, I fell into a deep hole concealed by the high

grass, and by the time that I resumed the hunt they had increased their distance, but I observed the leader

turned sharp to the right, through some low mimosa bush, to make direct for the open table land. I made a

short cut oblquely at my best speed, and only halted when I saw that I should lose ground by altering my

position. Stopping short, I was exactiy opposite the herd as they filed by me at right angles in full speed,

within about a hundred and eighty yards. I had my old Ceylon No. 10 double rifle, and I took a steady shot at

a large darkcoloured bull: the satisfactory sound of the ball upon his hide was followed almost immediately

by his blundering forward for about twenty yards, and falling heavily in the low bush. I heard the crack of the

ball of my lefthand barrel upon another fine beast, but no effects followed. Bacheet quickly gave me the

single 2ounce Manton rifle, and I singled out a fine darkcoloured bull, who fell on his knees to the shot,

but recovering, hobbled off disabled, apart from the herd, with a foreleg broken just below the shoulder.

Reloading immediately, I ran up to the spot, where I found my first giraffe lying dead, with the ball clean

through both shoulders: the second was standing about one hundred paces distant; upon my approach he

attempted to move, but immediately fell, and was despatched by my eager Arabs. I followed the herd for

about a mile to no purpose, through deep clammy ground and high grass, and I returned to our game.

"These were my first giraffes, and I admired them as they lay before me with a hunter's pride and satisfaction,

but mingled with a feeling of pity for such beautiful and utterly helpless creatures. The giraffe, although from

sixteen to twenty feet in height, is perfectly defenceless, and can only trust to the swiftness of its pace, and

the extraordinary power of vision, for its means of protection. The eye of this animal is the most beautiful

exaggeration of that of the gazelle, while the colour of the reddishorange hide, mottled with darker spots,

changes the tints of the skin with the differing rays of light, according to the muscular movenment of the

body. No one who has merely seen the giraffe in a cold climate can form the least idea of its beauty in its

native land. By the time that we had skinned one of the aninmals, it was nearly six o'clock, and it was

necessary to hurry forward to reach the river before night; we therefore arranged some thorny boughs over

"When about halfway to the river, as we were passing through grass about four feet high, three tetel

bounded from a ravine, and, passing directly before us, gave me a splendid shot at about sixty yards. The

Ceylon No. 10 struck the foremost through the shoulder, and it fell dead after running a few yards. This was

also my first tetel (Antelopus Bubalis); it was in splendid condition, the red coat was like satin, and the

"I had made very successful shots, having bagged three out of four large game; this perfectly delighted the

Arabs, and was very satisfactory to myself, as I was quite aware that my men would be only too willing to

"It was quite dark before we reached the river; we had been much delayed by repeated falls into deep holes,

and over hidden stones; thus I was well satisfied to find myself once more at home after having crossed the

river, in pitchy darkness, in a similar manner as before. Every person in the village had had a good view of

the stalk; therefore, as two giraffes had been seen to fall, the Arabs were waiting on the bank in expectation

"September 3.This morning I crossed the river with about twenty men, some swimming with inflated

skins, and others supported by logs of ambatch. A number of swimmers were holding on to a pole to which

four inflated girbas were attached; this is an excellent plan for assisting soldiers to cross a river, as they can

land together in parties, instead of singly, with their guns dry, should the opposite bank be occupied by an

enemy. I sat in my guncase, with the two rifles that I used yesterday, in addition to the little Fletcher; heaps

of clothes and sandals belonging to the swimmers formed my cargo; while, in case of accident, I had taken

off my belt and shoes, and tied my ammunition within an inflated skin. Neptune in his car drawn by dolphins

was not more completely at home than I in my guncase, towed by my fishlike hippopotami hunters. After

pirouetting in several strong whirlpools, during which time a crowd of women on the Sofi side of the river

were screaming to Allah and the Prophet to protect us from crocodiles, we at length arrived.

"We took a direct course towards the animals I had shot on the previous evening, meeting with no game

except a large troop of dogfaced baboons (Cynocephali), until we reached the body of the tetel (Antelopus

Bubalis), which lay undisturbed; leaving people to flay it carefully, so that the skin should serve as a water or

"I had not proceeded far, before I saw, at about a mile distant, a motionless figure, as though carved from red

granite; this I felt sure was a giraffe acting as sentry for another party that was not yet in view; I therefore

sent my men on towards the dead giraffes, while, accompanied by Florian's black servant Richarn,* who was

a good sportsman, and a couple of additional men, I endeavoured to stalk the giraffe. It was impossible to

obtain a favourable wind, without exposing ourselves upon flat ground, where we should have been

immediately perceived; I therefore arranged that my men should make a long circuit and drive the giraffe,

while I would endeavour to intercept it. This plan failed; but shortly after the attempt, I observed a herd of

about a hundred of these splendid creatures, browsing on the mimosas about half a mile distant. For upwards

of three hours I employed every artifice to obtain a shot, but to no purpose, as upon my approach to within a

quarter of a mile, they invariably chose open ground, leaving a sentry posted behind the herd, while two or

three kept a lookout well in advance. No animal is so difficult to approach as the giraffe; however, by great

patience and caution, I succeeded in reaching a long and deep ravine, by which I hoped to arrive within a

close shot, as many of the herd were standing upon the level tableground, from which this natural trench

suddenly descended. I believe I should have arrived within fifty yards of the herd by this admirable approach,

had it not been for the unlucky chance that brought me visavis with two tetel, that by galloping off

attracted the attention of the giraffes. To add to my misfortune, after a long and tedious crawl on hands and

knees up the narrow amid steep extremity of the gully, just as I raised my head above the edge of the table

land, expecting to see the giraffes within fifty paces, I found three gazelles feeding within ten yards of me,

while three magnificent giraffes were standing about a hundred and fifty yards distant.

* This faithful black, a native of the White Nile regions, subsequently became my servant, and, for four years

accompanied us honestly and courageously through all our difficulties to the Albert N'yanza.

"Off bounded the gazelles the instant that we were perceived; they of course gave the alarm immediately, and

away went the giraffes; but I took a quick shot at the great leader as he turned to the right, and he staggered a

few paces and fell headlong into the bush. Hurrah for the Ceylon No. 10!however, neither the second

barrel, nor a shot with the Manton 2ounce, produced any effect. It was a glorious sight to see the herd of

upwards of a hundred of these superb animals close up at the alarm of the shots, and pelt away in a dense

body through the dark green mimosa bush that hardly reached to their shoulders; but pursuit was useless. My

giraffe was not quite dead, and, the throat having been cut by the Arabs and Richarn, we attempted to flay our

game; this was simply impossible. The seroot fly was in swarms about the carcase, thousands were buzzing

about our ears and biting like bulldogs: the blood was streaming from our necks, and, as I wore no sleeves,

my naked arms suffered terribly. I never saw such an extraordinary sight; although we had killed our giraffe,

we could not take possession; it was no wonder that camels and all domestic animals were killed by this

horrible plague, the only wonder was the possibility of wild animals resisting the attack. The long tails of the

giraffes are admirable flywhippers, but they would be of little service against such a determined and

bloodthirsty enemy as the seroot. They were now like a swarm of bees, and we immediately made war upon

the scourge, by lighting several fires within a few feet to windward of the giraffe; when the sticks blazed

briskly, we piled green grass upon the tops, and quickly produced a smoke that vanquished the enemy.

"It was now about 3 P.M. and intensely hot; I had been in constant exercise since 6 A.M., therefore I

determined upon luncheon under the shade of a welcome mimosa upon which I had already hung my

waterskin to cool. We cut sonne long thin strips of flesh from the giraffe, and lighted a fire of dry babanoose

wood expressly for cooking. This species of wood is exceedingly inflammable, and burns like a torch; it is

intensely hard, and in colour and grain it is similar to lignum vitae. The festoons of giraffe flesh were hung

upon forked sticks, driven into the ground to leeward of the fire, while others were simply thrown upon the

embers by my men, who, while the food was roasting, employed themselves in skinning the animal, and in

eating the flesh raw. The meat was quickly roasted, and was the best I have ever tasted, fully corroborating

the praises I had frequently heard of giraffe meat from the Arab hunters. It would be natural to suppose that

the long legs of this animal would furnish the perfection of marrow bones, but these are a disappointment, as

the bones of the giraffe are solid, like those of the elephant and hippopotamus; the long tendons of the legs

are exceedingly prized by the Arabs in lieu of thread for sewing leather, also for guitar strings.

"After luncheon, I took my little Fletcher rifle, and strolled down to the spot from whence I had fired the shot,

as I wished to measure the distance, but no sooner had I arrived at the place than I observed at about a quarter

of a mile below me, in the valley, a fine tetel; it was standing on the summit of one of the numerous knolls,

evidently driven fronm the high grass by the flies. I stalked it very carefully until I arrived within about a

hundred yards, and just as I reached the stem of a tree that I had resolved upon as my coveringpoint, the

tetel got my wind, and immediately bounded off, receiving the bullet in the right hip at the same moment.

After a few bounds it fell, and I ran forward to secure it, but it suddenly sprang to its feet, and went off at a

surprising rate upon three legs. I believed I missed it, as I fired a quick shot just as it disappeared in the thick

bushes. Whistling for my people, I was now joined by Bacheet and Richarn, my other men remaining with

the giraffe. For about four miles we followed on the track through the broken valley of the Atbara, during

which we several times disturbed the tetel, but could not obtain a good shot, on account of the high grass and

thick bushes. Several times I tried a snap shot, as for a moment I caught sight of its red hide galloping

through the bush, but as it ran down wind I had no chance of getting close to my game. At length, after

following rapidly down a grassy ravine, I presently heard it pelting through the bushes; the ravine made a

bend to the right, therefore, by taking a short cut, I arrived just in time to catch sight of the tetel as it passed

over an open space below me; this time the little Fletcher bagged him. On examination I found that I had

struck it four times. I had fired five shots, but as three of those had been fired almost at random, when the

animal was in full speed through the bushes, one had missed, and the others were badly placed.

"Fortunately this long hunt had been in the direction of Sofi, to which we were near; still more fortunately,

after we had marked the spot, we shortly met my first party of Arabs returning towards the village, heavily

laden with giraffe's flesh, and the hide of one that I had killed yesterday. It appeared that during the night,

lions and hyaenas had completely devoured one of the giraffes, not even leaving a vestige of skin or bone, but

the immediate neighbourhood of the spot where it lay had been trampled into mud by the savage crowd who

had left their footprints as witnesses to the robbery; the hide and bones had evidently been dragged away

"On arrival at the river we were all busy in preparing for the passage with so large a quantity of meat. The

waterskins for the raft were quickly inflated, and I learnt from the Arabs an excellent contrivance for

carrying a quantity of flesh across a river, without its becoming sodden. The skin of the tetel was nearly as

capacious as that of an Alderney cow; this had been drawn off in the usual manner, so as to form a sack. The

Arabs immediately proceeded to tie up the neck like the mouth of a bag, and to secure the apertures at the

knees in like manner; when this operation was concluded, the skin became an immense sack, the mouth being

at the aperture left at the hindquarters. The No. 10 bullet had gone completely through the shoulders of the

tetel, thus the two holes in the hide required stopping; this was dexterously performed by inserting a stone

into either hole, of a size so much larger than the aperture, that it was impossible to squeeze them through.

These stones were inserted from the inside of the sack; they were then grasped by the hand from the outside,

and pulled forward, while a tight ligature was made behind each stone, which effectually stopped the holes.

The skin of the tetel was thus converted into a waterproof bag, into which was packed a quantity of flesh

sufficient to fill twothirds of its capacity; the edges of the mouth were then carefully drawn together, and

secured by tying. Thus carefully packed, one of the foreleg ligatures was untied, and the whole skin was

inflated by blowing through the tube formed by the skin of the limb; the inflation completed, this was

suddenly twisted round and tied. The skin thus filled looked like an exaggerated waterskin; the power of

flotation was so great, that about a dozen men hung on to the legs of the tetel, and to each other's shoulders,

when we launched it in the river. This plan is well worthy of the attention of military men; troops, when on

service, are seldom without bullocks; in the absence of boats or rafts, not only can the men be thus safely

conveyed across the river, but the ammunition can be packed within the skins, wrapped up in straw, and will

"The Arabs were much afraid of crocodiles this night, as it was perfectly dark when we had completed our

preparations, and they feared that the snmell of so large a quantity of raw flesh, more especially the hide of

the giraffe, which must be towed, would attract these beasts to the party; accordingly I fired several shots to

alarm them, and the men plunged into the river, amidst the usual yelling of the women on the opposite side.

"The sport upon the Abyssinian side of the river had been most satisfactory, and I resolved upon the first

opportunity to change my quarters, and to form an encampment upon that bank of the Atbara until the proper

season should arrive for travelling. I had killed three giraffes and two tetel in only two excursions. Florian,

who was ill, had not been able to accompany me; although he had been shooting in this neighbourhood for

two years he had never killed a giraffe. This want of success was owing to the inferiority of his weapons, that

"On the following morning about fifty Arabs crossed the river with the intention of bringing the flesh of the

giraffe, but they returned crestfallen in the evening, as again the lions and hyaenas had been before them, and

nothing was left. I therefore resolved not to shoot again until I should be settled in my new camp on the other

side of the river, as it was a wasteful expenditure of these beautiful animals unless the flesh could be

"The rainy season was drawing to a close, and I longed to quit the dulness of Sofi.

"September 12.The river has fallen nearly eighteen feet, as the amount of rain has much decreased during

the last week. Immense crocodiles are now to be seen daily, basking upon the muddy banks. One monster in

particular, who is well known to the Arabs as having devoured a woman a few months ago, invariably sleeps

"This evening I counted seven elephants on the east side of the river on the table lands.

"Today the Arabs kept one of their holy feasts; accordingly, a sheep was slaughtered as a sacrifice, with an

"The Arab system of an offering is peculiar. Should a friend be dangerously ill, or rain be demanded, or

should any calamity befall them, they slaughter an ox if they possess it, or a sheep or goat in the absence of a

larger animal, but the owner of the beast SELLS the meat in small portions to the assembled party, and the

whole affair of sacrifice resolves itself into a feast; thus having filled thenmselves with good meat, they feel

satisfied that they have made a religious sacrifice, and they expect the beneficial results. The guitar music and

singing that attend the occasion are simply abominable. Music, although beloved like dancing by both the

savage and civilized, varies in character according to the civilization of the race; that which is agreeable to

the uneducated ear is discord to the refined nerves of the educated. The uutuned ear of the savage can no

more enjoy the tones of civilized music than his palate would relish the elaborate dishes of a French chef de

cuisine. As the stomach of the Arab prefers the raw meat and reeking liver taken hot from the animal, so does

his ear prefer his equally coarse and discordant music to all other. The guitar most common is made of either

the shell of a large gourd, or that of a turtle; over this is stretched an untanned skin, that of a large fish being

preferred; through this two sticks are fixed about two feet three inches in length; the ends of these are

fastened to a cross piece upon which are secured the strings; these are stretched over a bridge similar to those

of a violin, and are either tightened or relaxed by rings of waxed rag fastened upon the cross piecethese

rings are turned by the hand, and retain their position in spite of the strain upon the strings. Nothing delights

an Arab more than to sit idly in his hut and strum this wretched instrument from morning until night."

I was thoroughly tired of Sofi, and I determined to move my party across the river to camp on the uninhabited

side; the rains had almost ceased, therefore we should be able to live in the tent at night, and to form a shady

ON the 15th September the entire male population of Sofi turned out to assist us in crossing the river, as I had

promised them a certain sum should the move be effected without the loss or destruction of baggage. I had

arranged a very superior raft to that I had formerly used, as I now had eight inflated skins attached to the

bedstead, upon which I lashed our large circular sponging bath, which, being three feet eight inches in

diameter, and of the best description, would be perfectly safe for my wife, and dry and commodious for the

luggage. In a very short time the whole of our effects were carried to the water's edge, and the passage of the

river commenced. The rifles were the first to cross with Bacheet, while the watertight iron box that

contained the gunpowder was towed like a pinnace behind the raft. Four hippopotami hunters were harnessed

as tug steamers, while a change of swimmers waited to relieve them every alternate voyage. The raft

answered admirably, and would easily support about three hundred pounds. The power of flotation of the

sponging bath alone I had proved would support a hundred and ninety pounds, thus the only danger in

crossing was the chance of a crocodile making a dash either at the inflated skins in mistake for the body of a

man, or at the swimmers themselves. All the usual necessaries were safely transported, with the tents and

personal baggage, before I crossed myself, with a number of Arabs. We quickly cleared the grass from the

hard pebbly soil of a beautiful plateau on the summit of a craggy sandstone cliff, about eighty feet above the

river; here we pitched the tents, close to some mimosas of dense foliage, and all being in order, I went down

to the river to receive the next arrival. My wife now came across the ferry, and so perfectly had this means of

transport succeeded, that by the evening, the whole of our stores and baggage had been delivered without the

slightest damage, with the exception of a very heavy load of corn, that had caused the sponging bath to ship a

sea during a strong squall of wind. The only person who had shown the least nervousness in trusting his

precious body to my ferryboat was Mahomet the dragoman, who, having been simply accustomed to the

grand vessels of the Nile, was not prepared to risk himself in a voyage across the Atbara in a sponging bath.

He put off the desperate attempt until the last moment, when every other person of my party had crossed; I

believe he hoped that a wreck would take place before his turn should arrive, and thus spare him the painful

necessity, but when at length the awful moment arrived, he was assisted carefully imito the bath by his

servant Achmet and a number of Arabs, all of whom were delighted at his imbecility. Perched nervously in

the centre of the bath, and holding on tight by either side, he was towed across with his travelling bag of

clothes, while Achmet remained in charge of his best clothes and sundry other personal effects, that were to

form the last cargo across the ferry. It appeared that Achmet, the dearly beloved and affectionate relative of

Mahomet, who had engaged to serve him for simple love instead of money, was suddenly tempted by Satan,

and seeing that Mahomet and the entire party were divided from him and the property in his charge, by a river

two hundred yards wide, about forty feet deep, with a powerful current, he made up his mind to bolt with the

valuables; therefore while Mahomet, in a nervous state in the ferrybath, was being towed towards the east,

Achmet turned in another direction and fled towards the west. Mahomet having been much frightened by the

nautical effort he had been forced to make, was in an exceedingly bad temper upon the arrival on the opposite

bank, and having at length succeeded in climbing up the steep ascent, in shoes that were about four sizes too

large for him, he arrived on the lofty plateau of our camp, and doubtless would like ourselves have been

charmed with the view of the noble river rushing between the cliffs of white sandstone, had he only seen

Achmet his fond relative with his effects on the opposite bank. Mahomet strained his eyes, but the blank was

no optical delusion; neither Achmet nor his effects were there. The Arabs, who hated the unfortunate

Mahomet for his general overbearing conduct, now comforted him with the suggestion that Achmet had run

away, and that his only chance was to recross the river and give chase. Mahomet would not have ventured

upon another voyage to the other side and back again, for the world, and as to giving chase in boots

(highlows) four sizes too big, and without strings, that would have been as absurd as to employ a donkey to

catch a horse. Mahomet could do nothing but rush frantically to the very edge of the cliff, and scream and

gesticulate to a crowd of Arab women who had passed the day beneath the shady trees by the Faky's grave,

watching our passage of the Atbara. Beating his own head and tearing his hair were always the safety valves

of Mahomet's rage, but as hair is not of that mushroom growth that reappears in a night, he had patches upon

his cranium as bald as a pumpkin shell, from the constant plucking, attendant upon losses of temper; he now

not only tore a few extra locks from his head, but he shouted out a tirade of abuse towards the fardistant

Achmet, calling him a "son of a dog," cursing his father, and paying a few compliments to the memory of his

mother, which if only half were founded upon fact were sad blots upon the morality of the family to which

Mahomet himself belonged, through his close relationship to Achmet, whom he had declared to be his

A heavy shower of rain fell shortly after our camp was completed, when fortunately the baggage was under

cover; this proved to be the last rain of the season, and from that moment the burning sun ruled the sodden

country, and rapidly dried up not only the soil but all vegetation. The grass within a few days of the cessation

of the rain assumed a tinge of yellow, and by the end of October there was not a green spot to relieve the eye

from the golden blaze of the landscape, except the patches of grass and reeds that sprang from the mud banks

of the retiring river. The climate was exceedingly unhealthy, but we were fortunately exceptions to the

general rule, and although the inhabitants of Sofi were all sufferers, our camp had no invalids, with the

exception of Mahomet, who had upon one occasion so gorged himself with halfputrid fish, that he nearly

died in consequence. It would be impossible to commence our explorations in the Base until the grass should

be sufficiently dry to burn; there were two varieties: that upon the slopes and hollows of the stony soil of the

Atbara valley had been a pest ever since it had ripened; as the head formed three barbed darts, these detached

themselves from the plant with such facility, that the slightest touch was sufficient to dislodge them; they

immediately pierced the clothes, from which they could not be withdrawn, as the barbed heads broke off and

remained. It was simply impossible to walk in this grass as it became ripe, without special protection; I

accordingly tanned some gazelle skins, with which my wife constructed stocking gaiters, to be drawn over

the foot and tied above and below the knee; thus fortified I could defy the grass, and indulge in shooting and

exploring the neighbourhood until the season should arrive for firing the country. The high grass upon the

table lands, although yellow, would not be sufficiently inflammable until the end of November.

The numerous watercourses that drained the table lands during the rainy season were now dry. No sooner had

the grass turned yellow, than the pest of the country, the seroot fly, disappeared; thus the presence of this

insect may be dated from about 10th July to 10th October. As the fly vanished, the giraffes also left the

neighbourhood. By a few days' exploration, I found that the point of land from the junction of the Settite river

with the Atbara, formed a narrow peninsula which was no wider than eight miles across from our

encampment: thus the herds of game retreating from the south before the attacks of the seroot, found

themselves driven into a cutdesac upon the strip of land between the broad and deep rivers the Settite and

Atbara, which in the rainy season they dared not cross. All this country being uninhabited, there were several

varieties of game at all seasons, but the three rainy months insure a good supply of elephants and giraffes;

these retreat about thirty miles farther south, when permitted by the cessation of the flies to return to their

My camp was in a very commanding position, as it was protected in front by the Atbara, and on the left by a

perpendicular ravine about eighty feet deep, at the bottom of which flowed the rivulet called by the Arabs the

"Till;" this joined the river immediately below our plateau. On our right was a steep and rugged incline

covered with rocks of the whitest sandstone, through which ran veins of rich iron ore from four to five feet in

width. I found a considerable quantity of fossil wood in the sandstone, and I had previously discovered on the

Sofi side of the river, the fossil stem of a tree about twelve feet long; the grain appeared to be exceedingly

As the Atbara had fallen to the level of the small tributary, the Till, that stream was nearly exhausted, and the

fish that inhabited its deep and shady waters during the rainy season were now fast retiring to the parent river.

At the mouth of the stream were a number of rocks, that, as the water of the Atbara retreated, daily increased

in size; these were evidently blocks that had been detached from the cliffs that walled in the Till. As we were

now entirely dependent upon the rod and the rifle for the support of our party, I determined to try for a fish,

as I felt quite certain that some big fellows in the main river would be waiting to receive the small fry that

I had a good supply of tackle, and I chose a beautifully straight and tapering bamboo that had been brought

down by the river floods. I cut off the large brass ring from a gamebag, which I lashed to the end of my rod;

and having well secured my largest winch, that carried upwards of 200 yards of the strongest line, I arranged

to fish with a live bait upon a set of treble hooks. In one of the rocks at the water's edge was a circular hole

about three feet in diameter and five or six feet deep; this appeared like an artificial well, but it was simply

the effect of natural boring by the joint exertions of the strong current conmbined with hard sand and gravel.

This had perhaps years ago settled in some slight hollow in the rock, and had gradually worked out a deep

well by perpetual revolutions. I emptied this natural bait box of its contents of sand and rounded pebbles, and

having thoroughly cleaned and supplied it with fresh water, I caught a large number of excellent baits by

emptying a hole in the Till; these I consigned to my aquarium. The baits were of various kinds: some were

small "boulti" (a species of perch), but the greater number were young fish of the Silurus species; these were

excellent, as they were exceedingly tough in the skin, and so hardy in constitution, that they rather enjoyed

the fun of fishing. I chose a little fellow about four inches in length to begin with, and I delicately inserted the

hook under the back fin. Gently dropping my alluring and lively little friend in a deep channel between the

rocks and the mouth of the Till, I watched my large float with great interest, as, carried by the stream, it swept

past the corner of a large rock into the open river; that corner was the very place where, if I had been a big

fish, I should have concealed myself for a sudden rush upon an unwary youngster. The large green float

sailed leisurely along, simply indicating, by its uneasy movement, that the bait was playing; and now it

passed the point of the rock and hurried round the corner in the sharper current towards the open river. Off it

went!Down dipped the tip of the rod, with a rush so sudden that the line caught somewhere, I don't know

"Well, that was a monster!" I exclaimed, as I recovered my inglorious line; fortunately the float was not lost,

as the hooks had been carried away at the fastening to the main line; a few yards of this I cut off, as it had

I replaced the lost hooks by a still larger set, with the stoutest gimp and swivels, and once more I tried my

fortune with a bait exactly resembling the first. In a short time I had a brisk run, and quickly landed a fish of

about twelve pounds: this was a species known by the Arabs as the "bayard;" it has a blackish green back, the

brightest silver sides and belly, with very peculiar back fins, that nearest to the tail being a simple piece of

flesh free from rays. This fish has four long barbules in the upper jaw, and two in the lower: the airbladder,

when dried, forms a superior quality of isinglass, and the flesh of this fish is excellent. I have frequently seen

the bayard sixty or seventy pounds' weight, therefore I was not proud of my catch, and I recommenced

fishing. Nothing large could be tempted, and I only succeeded in landing two others of the same kind, one of

about nine pounds, the smaller about six. I resolved upon my next trial to use a much larger bait, and I

The life at our new camp was charmingly independent; we were upon Abyssinian territory; but, as the

country was uninhabited, we considered it as our own. I had previously arranged with the sheik of Sofi that,

whenever the rifle should be successful and I could spare meat, I would hoist the English flag upon my

flagstaff; thus I could at any time summon a crowd of hungry visitors, who were ever ready to swim the river

and defy the crocodiles in the hope of obtaining flesh. We were exceedingly comfortable, having a large

stock of supplies; in addition to our servants we had acquired a treasure in a nice old slave woman, whom we

had hired from the sheik at a dollar per month to grind the corn. Masara (Sarah) was a dear old creature, the

most willing and obliging specimen of a good slave; and she was one of those bright exceptions of the negro

race that would have driven Exeter Hall frantic with enthusiasm. Poor old Masara! she had now fallen into

the hands of a kind mistress, and as we were improving in Arabic, my wife used to converse with her upon

the past and present; future had never been suggested to her simple mind. Masara had a weighty care; her

daily bread was provided; money she had none, neither did she require it; husband she could not have had, as

a slave has none, but is the common property of all who purchase her: but poor Masara had a daughter, a

charming pretty girl of about seventeen, the offspring of one of the old woman's Arab masters. Sometimes

this girl came to see her mother, and we arranged the bath on the inflated skins, and had her towed across for

a few days. This was Masara's greatest happiness, but her constant apprehension; the nightmare of her life

was the possibility that her daughter should be sold and parted from her. The girl was her only and all

absorbing thought, the sole object of her affection: she was the moon in her mother's long night of slavery;

without her, all was dark and hopeless. The hearts of slaves are crushed and hardened by the constant

pressure of the yoke; nevertheless some have still those holy feelings of affection that nature has implanted in

the human mind: it is the tearing asunder of those tender chains that renders slavery the horrible curse that it

really is; human beings are reduced to the position of animals, without the blessings enjoyed by the brute

Masara, Mahomet, Wat Gamma, and Bacheet, formed the establishment of Ehetilla, which was the Arab

name of our locality. Bacheet was an inveterate sportsman and was my constant and sole attendant when

shooting; his great desire was to accompany me in elephanthunting, when he promised to carry one of my

spare rifles as a trusty gunbearer, and he vowed that no animal should ever frighten him.

A few extracts from my journal written at that time will convey a tolerable idea of the place and our

"September 23.Started for the Settite river. In about four hours' good marching N.N.E. through a country

of grass and mimosa bush that forms the high land between that river and the Atbara, I reached the Settite

about a mile from the junction. The river is about 250 yards wide, and flows through a broken valley of

innumerable hillocks and deep ravines of about five miles in width, precisely similar in character to that of

the Atbara; the soil having been denuded by the rains, and carried away by the floods of the river towards the

Nile. The heat was intense; there was no air stirring; a cloudless sky and a sun like a burningglass. We saw

several nellut (Taurotragus strepsiceros), but these superb antelopes were too wild to allow a close approach.

The evening drew near, and we had nothing to eat, when fortunately I espied a fine blackstriped gazelle

(Gazella Dorcas), and with the greatest caution I stalked it to within about a hundred paces, and made a

successful shot with the Fletcher rifle, and secured our dinner. Thus provided, we selected a steep

sugarloafshaped hill, upon the peak of which we intended to pass the night. We therefore cleared away the

grass, spread boughs upon the ground, lighted fires, and prepared for a bivouac. Having a gridiron, and

pepper and salt, I made a grand dinner of liver and kidneys, while my men ate a great portion of the gazelle

raw, and cooked the remainder in their usual careless manner by simply laying it upon the fire for a few

seconds until warmed half through. There is nothing like a good gridiron for rough cooking; a fryingpan is

good if you have fat, but without it, the pan is utterly useless. With a gridiron and a couple of iron skewers a

man is independent:the liver cut in strips and grilled with pepper and salt is excellent, but kabobs are

sublime, if simply arranged upon the skewer in alternate pieces of liver and kidney cut as small as walnuts,

and rubbed with chopped garlic, onions, cayenne, black pepper, and salt. The skewers thus arranged should

"Not a man closed his eyes that nightnot that the dinner disagreed with thembut the mosquitoes! Lying

on the ground, the smoke of the fires did not protect us; we were beneath it, as were the mosquitoes likewise;

in fact the fires added to our misery, as they brought new plagues in thousands of flying bugs; with beetles of

all sizes and kinds: these, becoming stupified in the smoke, tumbled clumsily upon me, entangling

themselves in my long beard and whiskers, crawling over my body, down my neck, and up my

sleepingdrawers, until I was swarming with them; the bugs upon being handled squashed like lumps of

butter, and emitted a perfume that was unbearable. The night seemed endless; it was passed in alternately

walking to and fro, flapping right and left with a towel, covering my head with a pillowcase, and gasping for

"At length morning dawned, thank Heaven! I made a cup of strong coffee, ate a morsel of dhurra bread, and

started along the high ground parallel with the course of the Settite river up stream.

"After walking for upwards of four hours over ground covered with tracks of giraffes, elephants, and

antelopes about a fortnight old, I saw four tetel (Antelopus Bubalis), but I was unfortunate in my shot at a

long range in high grass. We had been marching southeast, and as I intended to return to camp, we now

turned sharp to the west. The country was beautiful, composed of alternate glades, copses, and low mimosa

forest. At length I espied the towering head of a giraffe about half a mile distant; he was in the mimosa forest,

and was already speculating upon our party, which he had quickly observed. Leaving my men in this spot to

fix his attention, I succeeded in making a good stalk to within one hundred and twenty yards of him. He was

exactly facing me, and I waited for him to turn and expose the flank, but he suddenly turned so quickly that I

lost the opportunity, and he received the bullet in his back as he started at full speed; for the moment he

reeled crippled among the mimosas, but, recovering, he made off. I could not fire the lefthand barrel on

account of the numerous trees and bushes. I called my men, and followed for a few hundred yards upon his

track, but as this was directly in an opposite direction to that of my camp I was forced to give up the hunt.*

"About an hour later I hit a tetel with both barrels of the little Fletcher, at full gallop; but although we

followed the bloodtrack for sonme distance, we did not recover it. At this season the grass is in most places

from seven to ten feet high, and being trodden by numerous old tracks of animals, it is difficult to find a

wounded beast without the assistance of a dog. The luck was against me today; I could only shoot well

enough to hit everything, but to bag nothing, owing to a sleepless night. I killed a guineafowl to secure

dinner upon my return, and we at length reached the welcome Atbara within two miles of my headquarters.

My men made a rush to the river, and threw themselves into the water, as all were more or less exhausted by

the intense heat of the long day's work after a restless night. I took a good drink through my gazelle

shankbone, which I wear suspended from my neck for that purpose, and I went on alone, leaving my

bathing party to refresh themselves. I reached the tent a little after 4 P.M. after more than ten hours' continual

walking in the burning sun. I felt almost red hot, but my bath and clean linen being ready, thanks to the

careful preparation of my wife, I was quickly refreshed, and sat down with a lion's appetite to good curry and

"September 25.Having nothing to eat, I took my fishingrod and strolled down to the river, and chose

from my aquarium a fish of about half a pound for a live bait; I dropped this in the river about twenty yards

beyond the mouth of the Till, and allowed it to swim naturally down the stream so as to pass across the Till

junction, and descend the deep channel between the rocks. For about ten minutes I had no run; I had twice

tried the same water without success, nothing would admire my charming bait; when, just as it had reached

the favourite turningpoint at the extremity of a rock, away dashed the line, with the tremendous rush that

follows the attack of a heavy fish. Trusting to the soundness of my tackle, I struck hard and fixed my new

acquaintance thoroughly, but off he dashed down the stream for about fifty yards at one rush, making for a

narrow channel between two rocks, through which the stream ran like a millrace. Should he pass this

channel, I knew he would cut the line across the rock; therefore, giving him the butt, I held him by main

force, and by the great swirl in the water I saw that I was bringing him to the surface; but just as I expected to

see him, my float having already appeared, away he darted in another direction, taking sixty or seventy yards

of line without a check. I at once observed that he must pass a shallow sandbank favourable for landing a

heavy fish; I therefore checked him as he reached this spot, and I followed him down the bank, reeling up line

as I ran parallel with his course. Now came the tug of war! I knew my hooks were good and the line sound,

therefore I was determined not to let him escape beyond the favourable ground; and I put a strain upon him,

that after much struggling brought to the surface a great shovelhead, followed by a pair of broad silvery

sides, as I led him gradualhy into shallow water. Bacheet now cleverly secured him by the gills, and dragged

him in triumph to the shore. This was a splendid bayard, at least forty pounds' weight.

"I laid my prize upon some green reeds, and covered it carefully with the same cool material. I then replaced

my bait by a lively fish, and once more tried the river. In a very short time I had another run, and landed a

small fish of about nine pounds of the same species. Not wishing to catch fish of that size, I put on a large

bait, and threw it about forty yards into the river, well up the stream, and allowed the float to sweep the water

in a half circle, thus taking the chance of different distances from the shore. For about half an hour nothing

moved; I was just preparing to alter my position, when out rushed my line, and striking hard, I believed I

fixed the old gentleman himself, for I had no control over him whatever; holding him was out of the question;

the line flew through my hands, cutting them till the blood flowed, and I was obliged to let the fish take his

own way: this he did for about eighty yards, when he suddenly stopped. This unexpected halt was a great

calamity, for the reel overran itself, having no checkwheel, and the slack bends of the line caught the handle

just as he again rushed forward, and with a jerk that nearly pulled the rod from my hands he was gone! I

found one of my large hooks broken short off; the confounded reel! The fish was a monster!

"After this bad luck I had no run until the evening, when putting on a large bait, and fishing at the tail of a

rock between the stream and still water, I once more had a grand rush, and hooked a big one. There were no

rocks down stream, all was fair play and clear water, and away he went at racing pace straight for the middle

of the river. To check the pace, I grasped the line with the stuff of my loose trousers, and pressed it between

my fingers so as to act as a break, and compel him to labour for every yard; but he pulled like a horse, and

nearly cut through the thick cotton cloth, making straight running for at least a hundred yards without a halt. I

now put so severe a strain upon him, that my strong bamboo bent nearly double, and the fish presently so far

yielded to the pressure, that I could enforce his running in half circles instead of straight away. I kept gaining

line, until I at length led him into a shallow bay, and after a great fight, Bacheet embraced him by falling

upon him, and clutching the monster with hands and knees; he then tugged to the shore a magnificent fish of

upwards of sixty pounds. For about twenty minutes he had fought against such a strain as I had never before

used upon a fish, but I had now adopted hooks of such a large size and thickness that it was hardly possible

for them to break, unless snapped by a crocodile. My reel was so loosened from the rod, that had the struggle

lasted a few minutes longer I must have been vanquished. This fish measured three feet eight inches to the

root of the tail, and two feet three inches in girth of shoulders; the head measured one foot ten inches in

"This closed the sport for the day. We called all hands to carry the fish to camp, and hoisted the flag, which

was quickly followed by the arrival of a number of men from Sofi, to receive all that we could spare. The

largest fish we cut into thin strips,these we salted and dried; the head made delicious soup, with a

"September 26.The weather is now intensely hot, and the short spear grass is drying so rapidly that in

some stony places it can be fired. The birds appear to build their nests at various seasons. Many that built

three months ago are again at work; among others is a species of black Mina, that takes entire possession of a

tree, which it completely covers with nests coarsely constructed of sticks. A few days ago I found several

"I never allow either the monkeys or baboons to be disturbed: thus they have no fear of our party, but with

perfect confidence they approach within thirty or forty yards of the tents, sitting upon the rocks and trees, and

curiously watching all that takes place in the camp. I have only seen one species of monkey in this

neighbourhooda handsome dark grey animal with white whiskers. The baboons are also of one species, the

great dogfaced ape (Cynocephalus); these grow to a very large size, and old Masara fully expects to be

carried off and become the wife of an old baboon, if they are allowed to become so bold.

"This afternoon I took a stroll with the rifle, but saw nothing except a young crocodile about six feet long;

this was on the dry summit of a hill, far from water. I shot it and took the skin. I can only conclude that the

small stream in which he had wandered from the riverbed had become dry, and the creature had lost its way

"September 27.I started from the tent at 6 A.M. and made a circuit of about eighteen miles, seeing nothing

but tetel and gazelles, but I had no luck. Hot and disgusted, I returned home, and took the rod, hoping for

better luck in the river. I hooked, but lost, a small fish, and I began to think that the fates were against me by

land and water, when I suddenly had a tremendous run, and about a hundred and fifty yards rushed off the

reel without the possibility of stopping the fish. The river was very low; thus I followed along the bank,

holding hard, and after about half an hour of difference of opinion, the fish began to show itself, and I coaxed

it into the shallows; here it was cleverly managed by Bacheet, who lugged it out by the tail. It was an ugly

monster, of about fifty pounds, a species of silurus, known by the Arabs as the 'coor;' it differed from the

silurus of Europe by haviimg a dorsal fin, like a fringe, that extended along the back to the tail. This fish had

lungs resembling delicate branches of red coral, and, if kept moist, it would exist upon the land for many

hours like an eel. It smelt strongly of musk, but it was gladly accepted by the Sheik of Sofi, who immediately

"While shooting this morning I came suddenly upon a small species of leopard that had just killed a snake

about five feet in length; the head was neatly bitten off and lay upon the ground near the body; the animal

was commencing a meal off the snake when it was disturbed, and I lost sight of it immediately in the high

"September 28.The heat is most oppressive: even the nights are hot, until about 2 A.M., at which hour a

cool breeze springs up. The wind now blows from the south until about 1 P.M., when it changes suddenly to

the north, and then varies between these two points during the rest of the day; this leads me to hope that the

north wind will shortly set in. September, as in England, is the autumn of this land; the wild fruits are ripe,

some of which are not unpleasant, but they are generally too sweet,they lack the acidity that would be

agreeable in this burning climate. There is an orangecoloured berry that has a pleasant flavour, but it is

extremely oily; this has a peculiarly disagreeable effect upon the system, if eaten in any quantity. Several

varieties of excellent wild vegetables grow in great abundance throughout this country: beans, three kinds of

spinach; the juicy, brittle plant cultivated in Lower Egypt, and known as the 'regle;' and lastly, that mainstay

of Arab cookery, 'waker,' well known in Ceylon and India under the names of 'Barmian' and 'Bandikai.' This

grows to the height of thirteen or fourteen feet in the rich soil of the table lands: the Arabs gather the pods

and cut them into thin slices; these are dried in the sun, and then packed in large sacks for market. The

harvest of waker is most important, as no Arab dish would be perfect without the admixture of this agreeable

vegetable. The dried waker is ground into powder between two stones; this, if boiled with a little gravy,

"September 29.We have just heard that Atalan Wat Said, by whom we were so well received, is dead! The

Arabs have a disagreeable custom of paying honours to a guest by keeping the anniversary of the death of any

relatives whose decease should be known to them; thus, when Atalan Wat Said paid a visit to Sheik Achmet

Abou Sinn, the latter celebrated with much pomp the anniversary of his (Atalan's) late father's death. The

unfortunate guest, who happened to arrive in Abou Sinn's camp upon the exact day upon which his father had

died in the precedimig year, was met by a mourning crowd, with the beating of drums, the howling of

women, and the loud weeping and sorrowful condoling of the men. This scene affected Atalan Wat Said to

such a degree, that, being rather unwell, he immediately sickened with fever, and died in three days. In this

country any grief of mind will insure an attack of fever, when all are more or less predisposed during the

"This afternoon I took the rod, and having caught a beautiful silversided fish of about a pound weight, I

placed it upon a large single hook fastened under the back fin. In about an hour I had a run, but upon striking,

I pulled the bait out of the fish's mouth, as the point of the hook had not touched the jaw. I had wound up

slowly for about thirty yards, hoping that the big fellow would follow his lost prize, as I knew him to be a

large fish by his attack upon a bait of a pound weight. I found my bait was killed, but having readjusted the

hook, I again cast it in the same direction, and slowly played it towards me. I had him! He took it

immediately, and I determined to allow him to swallow it before I should strike. Without a halt, about a

hundred yards of line were taken at the first rush towards the middle of the river; he then stopped, and I

waited for about a minute, and then fixed him with a jerk that bent my bamboo like a flyrod. To this he

replied by a splendid challenge; in one jump he flew about six feet above the water, and showed himself to be

one of the most beautiful fish I had ever seen; not one of those nondescript antediluvian brutes that you

expect to catch in these extraordinary rivers, but in colour he appeared like a clean run salmon. He gave

tremendous play, several times leaping out of the water, and shaking his head furiously to free himself from

the hook; then darting away with eighty or a hundred yards of fresh line, until he at last was forced to yield to

the strong and elastic bamboo, and his deep body stranded upon the fatal shallows.

"Bacheet was a charming lad to land a fish: he was always quiet and thoughtful, and never got in the way of

the line; this time he closely approached him from behind, slipped both his hands along his side, and hooked

his fingers into the broad gills; thus he dragged him, splashing through the shallows, to the sandbank. What a

beauty! What was he? The colour was that of a salmon, and the scales were not larger in proportion: he was

about fifty pounds' weight. The back fin resembled that of a perch, with seven rays; the second, dorsal fin

towards the tail had fourteen rays; the head was well shaped, and small in proportion; the eyes were bright

red, and shone like rubies; and the teeth were very small. I cut away my line, as the hook was deeply

swallowed; and after having washed this beautiful fish, I assisted Bacheet to carry it to the camp, where it

was laid upon a clean mat at the tentdoor for admiration. This species of fish is considered by the Arabs to

be the best in the river; it is therefore called 'El Baggar' (the cow). It is a species of perch, and we found it

excellentquite equal to a fine trout. I made an exact sketch of it on the spot, after which the greater portion

was cut up and salted; it was then smoked for about four hours. The latter process is necessary to prevent the

flies from blowing it, before it becomes sufficiently dry to resist their attacks.

"For several days I passed my time in fishing, with the varying success that must attend all fishermen. Upon

the extreme verge of the river's bank were dense bushes of the nabbuk, about fifteen feet high, but so thickly

massed with green foliage that I cut out a tunnel with my huntingknife, and completed a capacious arbour,

thoroughly protected from the sun. In this it was far more agreeable to pass the day than at the camp;

accordingly we arranged the ground with mats and carpets, and my wife converted the thorny bower into an

African drawingroom, where she could sit with her work and enjoy the view of the river at her feet, and

I WILL not follow the dates of the journal consecutively, but merely pounce from time to time upon such

"October 4.I went out fishing in the usual place, where the Till joins the Atbara; the little stream has

disappeared, and the bed is now perfectly dry, but there are many large rocks and sandbanks in the river,

which are excellent places for heavy fish. I had only three runs, but I landed them all. The first was a

beautiful baggar about forty pounds, from which time a long interval elapsed before I had another. I placed a

bait of about a pound upon my treble hook, and this being a fine lively fellow, was likely to entice a monster.

I was kept waiting for a considerable time, but at last he came with the usual tremendous rush. I gave him

about fifty yards of line before I fixed him, and the struggle then commenced, as usual with the baggar, by his

springing out of the water, and showing his superb form and size. This was a magnificent fish, and his

strength was so great, that in his violent rushes he would take sixty or seventy yards of line without my

permission. I could not check him, as the line burnt and cut my fingers to such a degree that I was forced to

let it go, and my only way of working him was to project the butt of the rod in the usual manner; this was a

very feeble break upon the rush of such a fish. At last, after about half an hour of alternate bullying and

coaxing, I got him into the shallows, and Bacheet attempted to manage him; this time he required the

assistance of Wat Gamma, who quickly ran down from the camp, and after much struggling, an enormous

baggar of between seventy and eighty pounds was hauled to the shore by the two delighted Arabs.

"I never enjoyed the landing of a fish more than on the present occasion, and I immediately had the flag

hoisted for a signal, and sent the largest that I had just caught as a present to Florian and his people. The two

fish as they lay upon the green reeds, glittering in silvery scales, were a sight to gladden the eyes of a

fisherman, as their joint weight was above one hundred and twenty pounds. I caught another fish in the

evening something over twenty pounds, an ugly and useful creature, the coor, that I despised, although it is a

"October 10.Set fire to the low spear grass of the valley. The river is now very low, exposing in many

places large beds of shingle, and rocks hitherto concealed. The water level is now about thirty feet below the

dried sedges and trash left by the high floods upon the overhanging boughs. The bed of the Atbara, and that

of the Settite, are composed of rounded pebbles of all sizes, and masses of iron ore. Large oysters (Etheria),

resembling the pearl oysters of Ceylon, are very numerous, and, from their internal appearance, with large

protuberances of pearl matter, I should imagine they would most probably yield pearls.

"The wild animals have now deserted this immediate neighbourhood; the only creatures that are to be seen in

numbers are the apes and monkeys: these throng the sides of the river, eating the tamarinds from the few

large trees, and collecting gum from the mimosas. These hungry animals gather the tamarinds before they

ripen, and I fear they will not leave a handful for us; nothing is more agreeable in this hot climate than the

acidity of tamarind water. I remarked a few days ago, when walking along the dry sandy bed of the Till about

five miles from the river, that the monkeys had been digging wells in the sand for water.

"Many changes are now taking place in the arrival and departure of various birds according to their

migrations; immense numbers of buzzards and hawks have arrived, and keep my fowls in perpetual alarm.

Ducks fly in large flocks up stream invariably, every day; storks of different kinds are arriving. Among the

new comers is a beautiful little bird, in size and shape like a canary, but of a deep bluish black, with an ivory

white bill and yellow lips. The beasts of prey are hungry, as the game has become scarce:there is no safety

for tame animals, and our goats will not feed, as they are constantly on the lookout for danger, starting at the

least sound in the bushes, and running to the tents for security: thus their supply of milk is much reduced.

"The Sheik of Sofi, Hassan bel Kader, swam across the river with a present of fowls; these he had tied upon

his head to prevent them from drowning. This man is a celebrated hippopotamus hunter, and I look forward

to accompanying him upon a harpooning expedition, when the river is lower. His father was killed by a bull

hippo that he had harpooned; the infuriated animal caught the unfortunate hunter in his jaws, and with one nip

disembowelled him before his son's eyes. Accidents are constantly occurring in this dangerous sport, as the

hunters are so continually in the water that they are exposed, like baits, to the attacks of crocodiles. During

the last season one of the sheik's party was killed; several men were swimming the river, supported by

inflated skins, when one was suddenly seized by a crocodile. Retaining his hold upon the support, his

comrades had time to clutch him by the hair, and beneath the arms; thus the crocodile could not drag the

buoyant skins beneath the surface. Once he was dragged from their grasp, but holding to his inflated skin, he

regained the surface, and was again supported by his friends, who clung to him, while he implored them to

hold him tight, as the crocodile still held him by the leg. In this way the hunters assisted him; at the same time

they struck downwards with their spears at the determined brute, until they at last drove it from its hold.

Upon gaining the shore, they found that the flesh of the leg from the knee downwards had been stripped from

"October 11.The Arabs have murdered one of the Egyptian soldiers, about five miles from Sofi. All my

people are more or less ill, but we, thank Heaven, are in excellent health; in fact, I have never been better than

"October 15.A fine breeze, therefore I set fire to the grass in all directions, which spread into a blaze over

many miles of country. The fire immediately attracts great numbers of flycatchers and buzzards; these hover

in the smoke to catch the locusts and other insects that escape from the heat. Buzzards are so exceedingly

bold, that it is one person's special duty to protect the strips of flesh when an animal is being cut up, at which

time many scores collect, and swoop down upon their prey clutching a piece of meat with their claws, if left

unguarded for a moment. Upon one occasion, the cook had just cleaned a fish of about a pound and a half

weight, which he laid upon the ground while he stooped to blow the fire; in an instant a large buzzard darted

"Africa may have some charms, but it certainly is rather a trying country; in the rainy weather we have the

impenetrable high grass, the flies, and the mud; when those entertainments are over, and the grass has

ripened, every variety of herb and bush is more or less armed with lances, swords, daggers, bayonets, knives,

spikes, needles, pins, fishhooks, hayforks, harpoons, and every abomination in the shape of points which

render a leather suit indispensable to a sportsman, even in this hot climate. My knickerbockers are made of

the coarse but strong Arab cotton cloth, that I have dyed brown with the fruit of the Acacia Arabica; but after

a walk of a few minutes, I am one mass of horrible points from the spear grass, for about a foot from the

upper part of my gaiters; the barbed points having penetrated, break off, and my trousers are as comfortable

"I long for the time when the entire country will be dry enough to burn, when fire will make a clean sweep of

"October 17.The sheik and several Arabs went to the Settite to sow tobacco; they simply cast the seed

upon the sandy loam left by the receding river, without even scratching the soil; it is thus left to take its

chance. I accompanied him to the Settite, and came upon the tracks of a herd of about fifty elephants that had

crossed the river a few days previous. As we were walking through the high grass we came upon a fine

boaconstrictor (python), and not wishing to fire, as I thought I might disturb elephants in the

neighbourhood, I made a cut at it with my heavy huntingknife, nearly severing about four feet from the tail,

"October 18.A lion paid us a visit last night, roaring close to the tent at intervals, frightening Mahomet out

"The seroot fly has entirely disappeared, and immense dragon flies are now arrived, and are greedily

"October 19.Troops of baboons are now exceedingly numerous, as the country being entirely dried up,

they are forced to the river for water, and the shady banks covered with berrybearing shrubs induce them to

remain. It is very amusing to watch these great male baboons stalking majestically along, followed by a large

herd of all ages, the mothers carrying their little ones upon their backs, the latter with a regular jockeyseat

riding most comfortably, while at other times they relieve the monotony of the position by sprawling at full

length and holding on by their mother's back hair. Suddenly a sharpeyed young ape discovers a bush well

covered with berries, and his greedy munching being quickly observed, a general rush of youngsters takes

place, and much squabbling for the best places ensues among the boys; this ends in great uproar when down

comes a great male, who cuffs one, pulls another by the hair, bites another on the hind quarters just as he

thinks he has escaped, drags back a wouldbe deserter by his tail and shakes him thoroughly, and thus he

shortly restores order, preventing all further disputes by sitting under the bush and quietly enjoying the

berries by himself. These baboons have a great variety of expressions that may perhaps represent their

vocabulary: a few of these I begin to understand, such as their notes of alarm, and the cry to attract attention;

thus, when I am sitting alone beneath the shade of a tree to watch their habits, they are at first not quite

certain what kind of a creature I may be, and they give a peculiar cry to induce me to move and show myself

"October 20.A lion was roaring throughout the night not far from the tent on his way towards the river to

drink; at every roar he was answered by the deep angry cry of the baboons, who challenged him immediately

from their secure positions on the high rocks and trees. I found the tracks of his large feet upon the bank of

the river, but there is no possibility of finding these animals in the daytime, as they retire to the high grass

"The banks of the Atbara are now swarming with small birds that throng the bushes (a species of willow),

growing by the water's edge; the weight of a large flock bends down the slender boughs until they touch the

water: this is their opportunity for drinking, as their beaks for an instant kiss the stream. These unfortunate

little birds get no rest, the large fish and the crocodiles grab at them when they attempt to drink, while the

falcons and hawks pursue them at all times and in every direction. Nothing is fat, as nothing can obtain rest,

the innumerable birds and beasts of prey give no peace to the weaker kinds; the fattest alderman of the city of

"October 23.This evening I took a walk, accompanied by my wife, and Bacheet with a spare gun, to try for

a shot at guineafowl. We were strolling along the margin of the river, when we heard a great shrieking of

women on the opposite side, in the spot from which the people of Sofi fetch their water. About a dozen

women had been filling their waterskins, when suddenly they were attacked by a large crocodile, who

attempted to seize a woman, but she, springing back, avoided it, and the animal swallowed her girba

(waterskin), that, being full of water and of a brown exterior, resembled the body of a woman. The women

rushed out of the river, when the crocodile made a second dash at them, and seized another waterskin that a

woman had dropped in her flight. They believe this to be the same monster that took a woman a few months

ago. Few creatures are so sly and wary as the crocodile. I watch them continually as they attack the dense

flocks of small birds that throng the bushes at the water's edge. These birds are perfectly aware of the danger,

and they fly from the attack, if possible. The crocodile then quietly and innocently lies upon the surface, as

though it had appeared quite by an accident; it thus attracts the attention of the birds, and it slowly sails away

to a considerable distance, exposed to their view. The birds, thus beguiled by the deceiver, believe that the

danger is removed, and they again flock to the bush, and once more dip their thirsty beaks into the stream.

Thus absorbed in slaking their thirst, they do not observe that their enemy is no longer on the surface. A

sudden splash, followed by a huge pair of jaws beneath the bush that engulfs some dozens of victims, is the

signal unexpectedly given of the crocodile's return, who has thus slyly dived, and hastened under cover of

water to his victims. I have seen the crocodiles repeat this manoeuvre constantly; they deceive by a feigned

"In like manner the crocodile perceives, while it is floating on the surface in midstream, or from the

opposite side of the river, a woman filling her girba, or an animal drinking, Sinking immediately, it swims

perhaps a hundred yards nearer, and again appearing for an instant upon the surface, it assures itself of the

position of its prey by a stealthy look; once more it sinks, and reaches the exact spot above which the person

or animal may be. Seeing distinctly through the water, it generally makes its fatal rush from

beneathsometimes seizing with its jaws, and at other times striking the object into the water with its tail,

"The crocodile does not attempt to swallow a large prey at once, but generally carries it away and keeps it for

a considerable time in its jaws in some deep hole beneath a rock, or the root of a tree, where it eats it at

leisure. The tongue of the crocodile is so unlike that of any other creature that it can hardly be called by the

same name; no portion throughout the entire length is detached from the flesh of the lower jawit is more

like a thickened membrane from the gullet to about half way along the length of jaw.

"October 4.Having burnt off a large surface of high grass, I discovered a quantity of gourds and wild

cucumbersthe latter are bright crimson, covered with long fleshy prickles, with black horny tips; these are

eaten by the baboons, but not by the Arabs. The gourds are only serviceable for cups and ladles manufactured

"I find a good pair of Highland shooting shoes of great value; the soles were exceedingly thick, and they have

resisted, until now, the intensely hard and coarsegrained sandstone which grinds through all leather. My

soles are at length worn out, and I have repaired them with the tanned hide of giraffe. Much of the sandstone

is white and soft and friable; but this appears to have been decomposed by time and exposure, as the

"October 25.Three elephanthunters arrived today with horses for sale. I purchased threea bay and two

greys. They are all of Abyssinian breed, and are handsome animals, although none exceed fourteen hands and

a half. The prices were high for this part of the world where dollars are scarce; but to me, they appeared to be

absurdly cheap. The bay horse was a regular strongbuilt cob; for him I paid nineteen dollarsabout 4l.

including a native saddle and bridle; for the greys, I paid fifteen and thirteen dollars, saddles and bridles also

included. The bay I named Tetel (hartebeest), the greys Aggahr* and Gazelle. Tetel was a trained hunter, as

was Aggahr likewise. Gazelle was quite inexperienced, but remarkably handsome. None of these horses had

ever been shod, but their hoofs were beautifully shaped, and as hard as ivory. The saddles had no stuffing on

the seats, but were simple wooden frames, with high backs and pommels, the various pieces being sewn

together with raw hide, and the front and back covered with crocodile skin. The stirrups were simple iron

rings, sufficiently large to admit the great toe of the rider, according to Arab fashion in these parts. The bits

were dreadfully severe; but perhaps not unnecessarily, as the sword allows only one bridlehand to a pulling

horse. Each horse was furnished with a leathern nosebag, and a long leathern thong as a picket strap. All

these horses and saddlery I had purchased for fortyseven dollars, or 9l. 1Os. Fortunately, both my wife and I

were well provided with the best English saddles, bridles, or the 'big toe' stirrup would have been an awkward

"October 26.We left our camp this morning for a few days' reconnaissance of the country, accompanied by

Florian, prior to commencing our regular expedition. Nine miles S.E. of Ehetilla we passed through a village

called Wat el Negur, after which we continued along a great tract of table land, on the eastern side of the

Atbara valley, bounded by a mimosa forest about four miles on the east. Very large quantities of dhurra

(Sorghum vulgare) are grown upon this fertile soil; it is now higher than a man's head when mounted upon a

camel. Far as the eye can reach, the great table lands extend on either side the broad valley of the Atbara. The

cotton that was planted many years ago by the inhabitants who have vanished, still flourishes, although

choked with grass six or seven feet high. At 4 P.M. we reached a large village, Sherif el Ibrahim,

twentyeight miles S.E. from Sofi by the route upon the east bank of the Atbara, which cuts off a bend in the

river. A species of dhurra, as sweet as the sugarcane, grows here in abundance, being regularly sown and

cultivated; it is called ankoleep. This is generally chewed in the mouth as a cane; but it is also peeled by the

women, and, when dried, it is boiled with milk to give it sweetness. A grain called dochan, a species of

millet, is likewise cultivated to a considerable extent; when ripe, it somewhat resembles the head of the

"October 28.Having slept at the village, we went to the river, and Florian shot a hippopotamus. The

natives, having skinned it, rushed at the carcase with knives and axes, and fought over it like a pack of

wolves; neither did they leave the spot until they had severed each bone, and walked off with every morsel, of

"October 31.Having passed a couple of days at Sherif el Ibrahim, we started for the Settite. When about

half way, we arrived at a curious plateau of granite rock, with a pool of water in the centre. Formerly a large

village occupied this position, named Gerrarat; but it was destroyed in a raid by the Egyptians, as being one

of Mek Nimmur's strongholds. The rock is a flat surface of about five acres, covered with large detached

fragments of granite; near this are several pools of water, which form the source of the rivulet, the Till, that

bounds our camp at Ehetilla. A large homeratree (Adansonia digitata) grows among the blocks of granite by

the pool; in the shade of its enormous boughs we breakfasted, and again started at 4 P.M. reaching the Settite

river at 7.3O, at a spot named Geera. In the dark we had some difficulty in finding our way down the rugged

slopes of the valley to the river. We had not taken beds, as these incumbrances were unnecessary when in

light marching order. We therefore made separate bivouacs, Florian and his people about a hundred yards

distant, while a rug laid upon the ground was sufficient for my wife. I made myself comfortable in a similar

"On the following morning we took a long stroll along the wild and rugged valley of the Settite, that was

precisely similar to that of the Atbara. The river, although low, was a noble stream, and the water was at this

season beautifully clear as it ran over a bed of clean pebbles. The pass between the cliffs of Geera was

exceedingly lovely. At that point the river did not exceed 200 yards in width, and it flowed through abrupt

cliffs of beautiful rosecoloured limestone; so fine and pure was the surface of the stone, that in places it

resembled artificiallysmoothed marble; in other places, the cliffs, equally abrupt, were of milkwhite

limestone of similar quality. This was the first spot in which I had found limestone since I had left Lower

Egypt. The name 'Geera,' in Arabic, signifies lime. Formerly this was an important village belonging to Mek

Nimmur, but it had been destroyed by the Egyptians, and the renowned Mek Nimmur was obliged to fall

"I started off a man to recall Mahomet and my entire camp fronm Ehetilla to Wat el Negur, as that village

was only seven hours' march from Geera; the three points, Sherif el Ibrahim, Geera, and Wat el Negur formed

almost an equilateral triangle. We reached the latter village on the following day, and found that Mahomet

and a string of camels from Sofi had already arrived. The country was now thickly populated on the west

bank of the Atbara, as the Arabs and their flocks had returned after the disappearance of the seroot fly.

Mahomet had had an accident, having fallen from his camel and broken no bones, but he had smashed the

stock of my singlebarrel rifle; this was in two pieces; I mended it, and it become stronger than ever. The

wood had broken short off in the neck of the stock, I therefore bored a hole about three inches deep up the

centre of either piece, so that it was hollowed like a marrowbone; in one of them I inserted a piece of an iron

ramrod, redhot, I then drew the other piece over the iron in a similar manner, and gently tapped the

shoulderplate until I had driven the broken joint firmly together. I then took off from a couple of old boxes

two strong brass hasps; these I let neatly into the wood on each side of the broken stock, and secured them by

screws, filing off all projections, so that they fitted exactly. I finished the work by stretching a piece of

wellsoaked crocodile's skin over the joint, which, when drawn tight, I sewed strongly together. When this

dried it became as hard as horn, and very much stronger; the extreme contraction held the work together like

a vice, and my rifle was perfectly restored. A traveller in wild countries should always preserve sundry

treasures that will become invaluable, such as strips of crocodile skin, the hide of the iguana, which should be

kept in the toolbox for cases of need. The toolbox should not exceed two feet six inches in length, and one

foot in depth, but it should contain the very best implements that can be made, with an extra supply of

gimlets, awls, centrebits, and borers of every description, also tools for boring iron; at least two dozen files

Wat el Negur was governed by a most excellent and polite sheik of the Jalyn tribe. Sheik Achmet Wat el

Negur was his name and title; being of the same race as Mek Nimmur, he dared to occupy the east bank of

the Atbara. Sheik Achmet was a wise man; he was a friend of the Egyptian authorities, to whom he paid

tribute as though it were his greatest pleasure; he also paid tribute to Mek Nimmur, with whom he was upon

the best of terms; therefore, in the constant fights that took place upon the borders, the cattle and people of

Sheik Achmet were respected by the contending parties, while those of all others were sufferers. This was

exactly the spot for my headquarters, as, like Sheik Achmet, I wished to be on good terms with everybody,

and through him I should be able to obtain an introduction to Mek Nimmur, whom I particularly wished to

visit, as I had heard that there never was such a brigand. Accordingly, I pitched the tents and formed a camp

upon the bank of the river, about two hundred yards below the village of Wat el Negur, and in a short time

There is nothing more delightful when travelling in a strange country, a thousand miles away from the track

of the wildest tourist, than to come upon the footprint of a countryman; not the actual mark of his sole upon

the sand, which the dust quickly obscures, but to find imprinted deeply upon the minds and recollections of

the people, the good character of a former traveller, that insures you a favourable introduction. Many years

before I visited Wat el Negur, Mr. Mansfield Parkyns, who has certainly written the best book on Abyssinia

that I have ever read, passed through this country, having visited Mek Nimmur, the father of the present Mek.

He was, I believe, the only European that had ever been in Mek Nimmur's territory, neither had his footsteps

been followed until my arrival. Mr. Parkyns had left behind him what the Arabs call a "sweet name;" and as I

happened to have his book, "Life in Abyssinia," with me, I showed it to the sheik as his production, and

explained the illustrations, at the same time I told him that Mr. Parkyns had described his visit to Mek

Nimmur, of whom he had spoken very highly, and that I wished to have an opportunity of telling the great

chief in person how much his good reception had been appreciated. The good Sheik Achmet immediately

promised to present me to Mek Nimmur, and wished particularly to know whether I intended to write a book

like Mr. Parkyns upon my return. Should I do so, he requested me to mention HIS name. I promised at once

to do this trifling favour; thus I have the greatest pleasure in certifying that Sheik Achmet Wat el Negur is

one of the best and most agreeable fellows that I have ever met in Africa; he does not keep an hotel, or I

would strongly recommend it to all travellers, but his welcome is given gratis, with the warmest hospitality.

The country for several miles upon the table land above Wat el Negur was highly cultivated, and several

thousand acres were planted with dhurra, that was at this season in full grain, and nearly ripe. Much sesame

was grown for the manufacture of oil; cotton was also cultivated, and the neighbourhood was a fair example

of the wonderful capabilities of the entire country that was allowed to lie in idleness. There was little rest for

the inhabitants at this time, as the nights were spent in watching their extensive plantations, and endeavouring

to scare away the elephants. These animals, with extreme cunning, invaded the dhurra crops at different

positions every night, and retreated before morning to great distances in the thick thorny jungles of the

Our arrival was welcomed with general enthusiasm, as the Arabs were unprovided with firearms, and the

celebrated aggageers or swordhunters were useless, as the elephants only appeared at night, and were far too

cunning to give them a chance. There was a particular range of almost impenetrable thorny covert in the

neighbourhood of Geera, well known as the asylum for these animals, to which they retreated, after having

satiated themselves by a few hours' feeding upon the crops of corn. I promised to assist in protecting the

plantations, although the Arabs assured me that, in spite of our rifles, the elephants would return every night.

Wishing to judge personally of the damage, I rode up to the dhurrafields, and for a few hours I examined the

crops, through which I could ride with ease, as the plants were arranged like hops.

Many acres were absolutely destroyed, as the elephants had not only carefully stripped off the heavy heads of

corn, but had trampled down and wilfully broken much more than they had consumed. The Arabs knew

nothing about guns, or their effect upon elephants, and I felt quite sure that a few nights with the heavy rifles

"November 7.In the middle of last night I was disturbed by the Arabs, who begged me to get up and shoot

the elephants that were already in the plantations. This I refused to do, as I will not fire a shot until they call

in their watchers, and leave the fields quiet. A few nights ago there was a perfect uproar from a score of

watchers, that prevented the elephants from coming at the very time that the people had induced me to pass

the whole night in the fields. I have arranged that the sheik shall call in all these watchers, and that they shall

accompany me tomorrow night. I will then post myself in the centre of the plantations, dividing the men

into many parties at all points, to return quietly to me and report the position that the elephants may have

"This morning I purchased a kid for two piastres (five pence). The sheik is exceedingly civil, and insists upon

"This afternoon, accompanied by my wife, I accepted an invitation to shoot a savage old bull hippopotamus

that had been sufficiently impertinent to chase several of the natives. He lived in a deep and broad portion of

the river, about two miles distant. We accordingly rode to the spot, and found the old hippo at home. The

river was about 250 yards wide at this place, in an acute bend that had formed a deep pool. In the centre of

this was a mud bank, just below the surface; upon this shallow bed the hippo was reposing. Upon perceiving

us he was exceedingly saucy, snorting at my party, and behaving himself in a most absurd manner, by

shaking his head and leaping halfway out of the water. This plunging demonstration was intended to

frighten us. I had previously given Bacheet a pistol, and had ordered him to follow on the opposite bank from

the ford at Wat el Negur. I now hallooed to him to fire several shots at the hippo, in order to drive him, if

possible, towards me, as I lay in ambush behind a rock in the bed of the river. Bacheet descended the almost

perpendicular bank to the water's edge, and after having chaffed the hippo considerably, he fired a shot with

the pistol, which was far more dangerous to us on the opposite side than to the animal. The hippo, who was a

wicked solitary old bull, accustomed to have his own way, returned the insult by charging towards Bacheet

with a tremendous snorting, that sent him scrambling up the steep bank in a panic, amidst a roar of laughter

from the people on my side concealed in the bushes. In this peal of merriment I thought I could distinguish a

voice closely resembling that of my wife. However, Bacheet, who had always longed to be brought face to

face with some foe worthy of his steel, had bolted, and he now stood safe in his elevated position on the top

of the bank, thirty feet above the river, and fired the second barrel in bold defiance at the hippopotamus.

"As the hippo had gained confidence, I showed myself above the rock, and called to him, according to Arab

custom, 'Hasinth! Hasinth!'* He, thinking no doubt that he might as well hunt me away, gave a loud snort,

sank, and quickly reappeared about a hundred yards from me; but nearer than this he positively refused to

approach. I therefore called to Bacheet to shout from the other side to attract his attention, and as he turned

his head, I took a steady shot behind the ear with the little Fletcher rifle. This happened to be one of those

fortunate shots that consoles you for many misses, and the saucy old hippo turned upon his back and rolled

about in tremendous struggles, lashing the still and deep pool into waves, until he at length disappeared. We

knew that he was settled; thus my people started off towards the village, and in a marvellousiy short time a

frantic crowd of Arabs arrived with camels, ropes, axes, knives, and everything necessary for an onslaught

upon the hippo, who, up to this time, had not appeared upon the surface. In about an hour and a half from the

time he received the bullet, we discovered his carcase floating about two hundred yards lower down the river.

Several heads of large crocodiles appeared and vanished suddenly within a few feet of the floating carcase,

therefore the Arabs considered it prudent to wait until the stream should strand the body upon the pebbly

shallows about half a mile below the pool. Upon arrival at that point, there was a general rush, and the excited

crowd secured the hippo by many ropes, and hauled it to the shore. It was a very fine bull, as the skin without

the head measured twelve feet three inches. I had two haunches kept for the sheik, and a large quantity of fat,

which is highly and deservedly prized by the Arabs, as it is the most delicate of any animal. Those portions

secured, with a reserve of meat for ourselves, the usual disgusting scene of violence commenced, the crowd

"In the evening I resolved to watch the dhurra fields for elephants. At about 9 P.M. I arrived in the

plantations, with three men carrying spare guns, among whom was Bacheet, who had at length an opportunity

for which he had long yearned. I entrusted to him the 'Baby,' which he promised to put into my hands the

very moment that I should fire my second barrel. I carried my own Ceylon No. 10, made by Beattie. We had

not been half an hour in the dhurra fields before we met a couple of Arab watchers, who informed us that a

herd of elephants was already in the plantation; we accordingly followed our guides. In about a quarter of an

hour we distinctly heard the cracking of the dhurra stems, as the elephants browsed, and trampled them

"Taking the proper position of the wind, I led our party cautiously in the direction of the sound, and in about

five minutes I came in view of the slatecoloured and dusky forms of the herd. The moon was bright, and I

counted nine elephants; they had trampled a space of about fifty yards square into a barren level, and they

were now slowly moving forward, feeding as they went. One elephant, unfortunately, was separated from the

herd, and was about forty yards in the rear; this fellow I was afraid would render our approach difficult.

Cautioning my men, especially Bacheet, to keep close to me with the spare rifles, I crept along the alleys

formed by the tall rows of dhurra, and after carefully stalking against the wind, I felt sure that it would be

necessary to kill the single elephant before I should be able to attack the herd. Accordingly, I crept nearer and

nearer, well concealed in the favourable crop of high and sheltering stems, until I was within fifteen yards of

the hindmost animal. As I had never shot one of the African species, I was determined to follow the Ceylon

plan, and get as near as possible; therefore I continued to creep from row to row of dhurra, until I at length

stood at the very tail of the elephant in the next row. I could easily have touched it with my rifle, but just at

this moment, it either obtained my wind, or it heard the rustle of the men. It quickly turned its head half round

towards me; in the same instant I took the temple shot, and, by the flash of the rifle, I saw that it fell. Jumping

forward past the huge body, I fired the lefthand barrel at an elephant that had advanced from the herd; it fell

immediately! Now came the moment for a grand rush, as they stumbled in confusion over the last fallen

elephant, and jammed together in a dense mass with their immense ears outspread, forming a picture of

intense astonishment! Where were my spare guns? Here was a grand opportunity to run in and floor them

"Not a man was in sight, everybody had bolted! and I stood in advance of the dead elephant calling for my

guns in vain. At length one of my fellows came up, but it was too late, the fallen elephant in the herd had

risen from the ground, and they had all hustled off at a great pace, and were gone; I had only bagged one

elephant. Where was the valiant Bacheet? the wouldbe Nimrod, who for the last three months had been

fretting in inactivity, and longing for the moment of action, when he had promised to be my trusty

gunbearer! He was the last man to appear, and he only ventured from his hidingplace in the high dhurra

when assured of the elephants' retreat. I was obliged to admonish the whole party by a little physical

treatment, and the gallant Bacheet returned with us to the village, crestfallen and completely subdued. On the

following day not a vestige remained of the elephant, except the offal: the Arabs had not only cut off the

flesh, but they had hacked the skull and the bones in pieces, and carried them off to boil down for soup."

Two months had elapsed since the last drop of rain had closed the wet season. It was 15th November, and the

river had fallen to so low an ebb that the stream was reduced to a breadth of about eighty yards of bright and

clear water, rushing in places with great rapidity through the centre of its broad and stony bed, while in

sudden bends of the channel it widened into still, and exceedingly deep pools. We were encamped exactly

upon the verge of a perpendicular cliff, from which there was a rugged path to the dry channel some thirty

feet below, which shelved rapidly towards the centre occupied by the stream. In this spot were powerful

rapids, above which to our left was a ford, at this time about waistdeep, upon a bed of rock that divided the

lower rapids from a broad and silent pool above: across this ford the women of the village daily passed to

collect their faggots of wood from the bushes on the opposite side. I had shot a crocodile, and a marabou

stork, and I was carefully plucking the plume of beautiful feathers from the tail of the bird, surrounded by a

number of Arabs, when I observed a throng of women, each laden with a bundle of wood, crossing the ford in

single file from the opposite bank. Among them were two young girls of about fifteen, and I remarked that

these, instead of marching in a line with the women, were wading handinhand in dangerous proximity to

the head of the rapids. A few seconds later, I noticed that they were inclining their bodies up stream, and were

evidently struggling with the current. Hardly had I pointed out the danger to the men around me, when the

girls clung to each other, and striving against their fate they tottered down the stream towards the rapids,

which rushed with such violence that the waves were about two feet high. With praiseworthy speed the Arabs

started to their feet, and dashed down the deep descent towards the river, but before they had reached half

way, the girls uttered a shriek, lost their footing, and in another instant they threw their arms wildly above

their heads, and were hurried away in the foam of the rapids. One disappeared immediately; the other was

visible, as her long black hair floated on the surface; she also sank. Presently, about twenty yards below the

spot, a pair of naked arms protruded high above the surface, with ivory bracelets upon the wrists, and twice

the hands clapped together as though imploring help; again she disappeared. The water was by this time full

of men, who had rushed to the rescue; but they had foolishly jumped in at the spot where they had first seen

the girls, who were of course by this time carried far away by the torrent. Once more, farther down the river,

the hands and bracelets appeared; again they wildly clapped together, and in the clear water we could plainly

see the dark hair beneath. Still, she sank again; but almost immediately she rose head and shoulders above the

This was her last effort; she disappeared. By the time several men had wisely run along the bank below the

tail of the rapids, and having formed a line across a very narrow portion of the stream, one of them suddenly

clutched an object beneath the water and in another moment he held the body of the girl in his arms. Of

course she was dead? or a fit subject for the Royal Humane Society?So I supposed; when to our intense

astonishment, she no sooner was brought to the shore than she gave herself a shake, threw back her long hair,

wrung out and arranged her dripping rahat, and walked leisurely back to the ford, which she crossed with the

What she was composed of I cannot say; whether she was the offspring of a cross between mermaid and

hippopotamus, or hatched from the egg of a crocodile, I know not, but a more wonderfully amphibious being

During this painful scene, in which one girl had been entirely lost, the mother of her who was saved had

rushed to meet her child as she landed from the ford; but instead of clasping her to her heart, as we had

expected, she gave her a maternal welcome by beating her most unmercifully with her fists, bestowing such

lusty blows upon her back that we could distinctly hear them at a distance of fifty yards; this punishment, we

were given to understand, served her perfectly right, for having been foolish enough to venture near the

rapids. The melancholy deathhowl was now raised by all the women in the village, while the men explored

the river in search of the missing body. On the following morning the sheik appeared at my tent, with a

number of Arabs who had been unsuccessful, and he begged me, if possible, to suggest some means for the

I proposed that they should procure a log of heavy wood, as near as possible the size of the girl, and that this

should be thrown into the rapids, in the exact spot where she had disappeared; this, being nearly the same

weight, would be equally acted upon by the stream, and would form a guide which they should follow until it

should lead them to some deep eddy, or whirlpool formed by a backwater; should the pilot log remain in such

a spot, they would most probably find the body in the same place. The men immediately procured a log, and

set off with the sheik himself to carry out the experiment. In the afternoon, we heard a terrible howling and

crying, and a crowd of men and women returned to the village, some of whom paid us a visit; they had found

the body. The log had guided them about two miles distant, and had remained stationary in a backwater near

where I had shot the bull hippopotamus; in this still pool, close to the bank, they almost immediately

discovered the girl floating slightly beneath the surface. No crocodile had injured the body, but the fish had

destroyed a portion of the face; it was already so far advanced in decomposition, that it was necessary to bury

it upon the margin of the river, at the spot where it was discovered. The people came to thank me for having

originated the idea, and the very agreeable sheik spent the evening with us with a number of his people; this

was his greatest delight, and we had become thoroughly accustomed to his daily visits. At such times we sat

upon an angarep, while he sat upon a mat stretched upon the ground, with a number of his men, who formed

a halfcircle around him; he then invariably requested that we would tell him stories about England. Of these

he never tired, and with the assistance of Mahomet we established a regular entertainment; the great

amusement of the Arabs being the mistakes that they readily perceived were made by Mahomet as interpreter.

The death of the girl gave rise to a conversation upon drowning: this turned upon the subject of the girl

herself and ended in a discussion upon the value of women; the question originating in a lament on the part of

the sheik that a nice young girl had been drowned instead of a useless old woman. The sheik laid down the

law with great force, "that a woman was of no use when she ceased to be young, unless she was a good strong

person who could grind corn, and carry water from the river;" in this assertion he was seconded, and

Now it was always a common practice among the Arab women, when they called upon my wife, to request

her to show her hands; they would then feel the soft palms and exclaim in astonishment, "Ah! she has never

ground corn!" that being the duty of a wife unless she is rich enough to possess slaves. Sheik Achmet

requested me to give him some account of our domestic arrangements in England; I did this as briefly as

possible, explaining how ladies received our devoted attentions, extolling their beauty and virtue, and in fact

giving him an idea that England was paradise, and that the ladies were angels. I described the variety of

colours; that instead of all being dark, some were exceedingly fair; that others had red hair; that we had many

bright black eyes, and some irresistible dark blue; and at the close of my descriptions I believe the sheik and

his party felt disposed to emigrate immediately to the chilly shores of Great Britain; they asked, "How far off

is your country?" "Well," said the sheik, with a sigh, "that must be a very charming country; how could you

possibly come away from all your beautiful wives? True, you have brought one with you: she is, of course,

the youngest and most lovely; perhaps those you have left at home are the OLD ONES!" I was obliged to

explain, that we are contented with one wife, and that even were people disposed to marry two, or more, they

would be punished with imprisonment. This announcement was received with a general expression of

indignation; the sheik and his party, who a few minutes ago were disposed to emigrate, and settle upon our

shores, would now at the most have ventured upon a return ticket. After some murmurs of disapprobation,

there was a decided expression of disbelief in my last statement. "Why," said the sheik, "the fact is simply

IMPOSSIBLE! How CAN a man be contented with one wife? It is ridiculous, absurd! What is he to do when

she becomes old? When she is young, if very lovely, perhaps, he might be satisfied with her, but even the

young must some day grow old, and the beauty must fade. The man does not fade like the woman; therefore,

as he remains the same for many years, but she changes in a few years, Nature has arranged that the man shall

have young wives to replace the old; does not the Prophet allow it? Had not our forefathers many wives? and

shall we have but one? Look at yourself. Your wife is young, and" (here the sheik indulged in compliments),

"but in ten years she will not be the same as now; will you not then let her have a nice house all to herself,

I was obliged to explain to the sheik that, first, our ladies never looked old; secondly, they improved with

age; and thirdly, that we were supposed to love our wives with greater ardour as they advanced in years. This

was received with an ominous shake of the head, coupled with the exclamation, "Mashallah!" repeated by the

whole party. This was the moment for a few remarks on polygamy: I continued, "You men are selfish; you

expect from the woman that which you will not give in return, 'constancy and love;' if your wife demanded a

multiplicity of husbands, would it not be impossible to love her? how can she love you if you insist upon

other wives ?" "Ah!" he replied, "our women are different to yours, they would not love anybody; look at

your wife, she has travelled with you far away from her own country, and her heart is stronger than a man's;

she is afraid of nothing, because you are with her; but our women prefer to be far away from their husbands,

and are only happy when they have nothing whatever to do. You don't understand our women, they are

ignorant creatures, and when their youth is past are good for nothing but to work. You have explained your

customs; your women are adored by the men, and you are satisfied with one wife, either young or old; now I

will explain our customs. I have four wives; as one has become old, I have replaced her with a young one;

here they all are" (he now marked four strokes upon the sand with his stick). "This one carries water; that

grinds the corn; this makes the bread; the last does not do much, as she is the youngest, and my favourite; and

if they neglect their work, they get a taste of this!" (shaking a long and, tolerably thick stick). "Now, that's the

difference between our establishments; yours is well adapted for your country, and ours is the best plan for

I would not contradict the sheik; the English greatcoat was not the garment for the scorching Soudan, and

English ideas were equally unsuited to the climate and requirements of the people. The girls were utterly

ignorant, and the Arabs had never heard of a woman who could read and write; they were generally pretty

when young, but they rapidly grew old after childbirth. Numbers of young girls and women were accustomed

to bathe perfectly naked in the river just before our tent; I employed them to catch small fish for baits and for

hours they would amuse themselves in this way, screaming with excitement and fun, and chasing the small

fry with their long clothes in lieu of nets; their figures were generally well shaped, but both men and women

fell off in the development of the legs. Very few had wellshaped calves, but remarkably thin and cleanly

formed ankles, with very delicately shaped feet. The men were constantly bathing in the clear waters of the

Atbara, and were perfectly naked, although close to the women; we soon became accustomed to this daily

Our life at Wat el Negur was anything but disagreeable; we had acquired great fame in several ways: the

game that I shot I divided among the people; they also took an interest in the fishing, as they generally had a

large share of all that I caught; my wife was very kind to all the children, and to the women, who came from

great distances to see her; and my character as a physician having been spread far and wide, we became very

celebrated people. Of course I was besieged daily by the maimed, the halt, and the blind, and the poor people,

with much gratitude, would insist upon bringing fowls and milk in return for our attention to their wants.

These I would never accept, but on many occasions, upon my refusal, the women would untie the legs of a

bundle of chickens, and allow them to escape in our camp, rather than be compelled to return with their

offering. Even the fakeers (priests) were our great friends, although we were Christians, and in my broken

Arabic, with the assistance of Mahomet, I used to touch upon theological subjects. At first they expressed

surprise that such clever people as the English should worship idols made of wood, or other substances, by

the hands of man. I explained to them their error, as we were Protestants in England, who had protested

against the practice of bowing down before the figure of Christ or any other form; that we simply worshipped

God through Christ, believing Him to be both Saviour and Mediator. I recalled to their recollection that

Mahomet and they themselves believed in Christ, as the greatest of all the prophets, therefore in reality there

was not so very wide a gulf between their creed and our own; both acknowledging the same God; both

believing in Christ, although differing in the degree of that belief. I allowed that Mahomet was a most

wonderful man, and that, if a cause is to be valued by its effect, he was as much entitled to the name of

prophet as Moses, the first lawgiver. Our arguments never became overheated, as these simple yet steadfast

Arabs, who held the faith of their forefathers untarnished and uncorrupted by schisms, spoke more with

reverence to the great spirit of religion, than with the acrimony of debate. "My brothers," I would reply, "we

are all God's creatures, believing in the one great Spirit who created us and all things, who made this atom of

dust that we call our world, a tiny star amongst the hosts of heaven; and we, differing in colours and in races,

are striving through our short but weary pilgrimage to the same high point; to the same mountaintop, where

we trust to meet when the journey shall be accomplished. That mountain is steep, the country is desert; is

there but one path, or are there many? Your path and mine are different, but with God's help they will lead us

to the top. Shall we quarrel over the well upon the thirsty way? or shall we drink together, and be thankful for

the cool waters, and strive to reach the end? Drink from my waterskin when upon the desert we thirst

together, scorched by the same sun, exhausted by the same simoom, cooled by the same night, until we sleep

at the journey's end, and together thank God, Christian and Mahometan, that we have reached our home."

The good fakeers rejoiced in such simple explanations, and they came to the conclusion that we were "all the

same with a little difference," thus we were the best of friends with all the people. If not exactly a cure of

their Mahometan souls, they acknowledged that I held the key to their bowels, which were entirely dependent

upon my will, when the crowd of applicants daily thronged my medicine chest, and I dispensed jalap,

calomel, opium, and tartar emetic. Upon one occasion a woman brought me a child of about fifteen months

old, with a broken thigh; she had fallen asleep upon her camel, and had allowed the child to fall from her

arms. I set the thigh, and secured it with gum bandages, as the mimosas afforded the requisite material. About

twenty yards of old linen in bandages three inches broad, soaked in thick gumwater, will form the best of

splints when it becomes dry and hard, which in that climate it will do in about an hour. There was one

complaint that I was obliged to leave entirely in the hands of the Arabs, this was called "frendeet;" it was

almost the certain effect of drinking the water that in the rainy season is accumulated in pools upon the

surface of the rich table lands, especially between the Atbara and Katariff; the latter is a markettown about

sixty miles from Wat el Negur, on the west bank of the river. Frendeet commences with a swelling of one of

the limbs, generally accompanied with intense pain; this is caused by a worm of several feet in length, but no

thicker than packthread. The Arab cure is to plaster the limb with cowdung, which is their common

application for almost all complaints. They then proceed to make what they term "doors," through which the

worm will be able to escape; but, should it not be able to find one exit, they make a great number by the

pleasant and simple operation of pricking the skin in many places with a redhot lance. In about a week after

these means of escape are provided, one of the wounds will inflame, and assume the character of a small boil,

from which the head of the worm will issue. This is then seized, and fastened either to a small reed or piece

of wood, which is daily and most gently wound round, until, in the course of about a week, the entire worm

will be extracted, unless broken during the operation, in which case severe inflammation will ensue.

It was the 22d November, and the time was approaching when the grass throughout the entire country would

be sufficiently dry to be fired; we accordingly prepared for our expedition, and it was necessary to go to

Katariff to engage men, and to procure a slave in the place of old Masara, whose owner would not trust her in

the wild countries we were about to visit. We therefore mounted our horses, and in two days we reached

Katariff, rather less than sixty miles distant. The journey was exceedingly uninteresting, as the route lay

across the monotonous flats of rich table land, without a single object to attract the attention, except the long

line of villages which at intervals of about six miles lined the way. During the dry weather (the present

season) there was not a drop of water in this country, except in wells far apart. Thus the cattle within twenty

miles of the Atbara were driven every alternate day that great distance to the river, as the wells would not

supply the large herds of the Arabs; although the animals could support life by drinking every alternate day,

the cows were dry upon the day of fasting; this proved a certain amount of suffering.

Upon arrival at Katariff we were hospitably received by a Greek merchant, Michel Georgis, a nephew of the

good old man from whom we had received much attention while at Cassala. The town was a miserable place,

composed simply of the usual straw huts of the Arabs; the market, or "Soog," was biweekly. Katariff was

I extract an entry from my journal."The bazaar held here is most original. Long rows of thatched open

sheds, about six feet high, form a street; in these sheds the dealers squat with their various wares exposed on

the ground before them. In one, are Manchester goods, the calicoes are printed in England, with the name of

the Greek merchant to whom they are consigned; in another, is a curious collection of small wares, as though

samples of larger quantities, but in reality they are the dealer's whole stock of sundries, which he deals out to

numerous purchasers in minute lots, for paras and half piastres, ginger, cloves, chills, cardamoms, pepper,

turmeric, orris root, saffron, sandalwood, musk, a species of moss that smells like patchouli, antimony for

colouring the eyes and lips, henna, glass beads, cowrie shells, steels for striking fire, Other stalls contain

swordblades, files, razors, and other hardware, all of German manufacture, and of the most rubbishing kind.

Mingled with these, in the same stall, are lookingglasses, three inches square, framed in coloured paper;

slippers, sandals, Other sheds contain camel ropes and bells, saddlery of all descriptions that are in general

use, shoes, but the most numerous stalls are those devoted to red pepper, beads, and perfumery."

Beyond the main street of straw booths are vendors of miscellaneous goods, squatting under temporary

fanshaped straw screens, which are rented at the rate of five paras per day (about a farthing); beneath these

may be seen vendors of butter and other grease, contained in a large jar by their side, while upon a stone

before them are arranged balls of fat which are sold at five paras a lump. Each morsel is about the size of a

cricketball: this is supposed to be the smallest quantity required for one dressing of the hair. Other screens

are occupied by dealers in ropes, mats, leathern bags, girbas or waterskins, gum sacks, beans, waker, salt,

sugar, coffee, Itinerant snmiths are at work, making knifeblades, repairing spears, with small boys working

the bellows, formed of simple leathern bags that open and close by the pressure of two sticks. The object that

draws a crowd around him is a professional storyteller, wonderfully witty, no doubt, as, being mounted

upon a camel from which he addresses his audience, he provokes roars of merriment; his small eyes,

overhanging brow, large mouth, with thin and tightly compressed lips and deeply dimpled cheeks, combined

with an unlimited amount of brass, completed a picture of professional shrewdness.

Camels, cattle, and donkeys are also exposed for sale. The average price for a baggage camel is twelve

dollars; a hygeen, from thirty to sixty dollars; a fat ox, from six to ten dollars (the dollar at four shillings).

Katariff is on the direct merchants' route from Cassala to Khartoum. The charge for transport is accordingly

low; a camel loaded with six cantars (600 lbs.) from this spot to Cassala, can be hired for one dollar, and from

thence to Souakim, on the Red Sea, for five dollars; thus all produce is delivered from Katariff to the shipping

port, at a charge of four shillings per hundred pounds. Cotton might be grown to any extent on this

magnificent soil, and would pay the planter a large profit, were regular steam communication established at a

There is a fine grey limestone in the neighbourhood of Katariff. The collection of people is exceedingly

interesting upon a market day, as Arabs of all tribes, Tokrooris, and some few Abyssinians, concentrate from

distant points. Many of the Arab women would be exceedingly pretty were their beauty not destroyed by their

custom of gashing the cheeks in three wounds upon either side; this is inflicted during infancy. Scars are

considered ornamental, and some of the women are much disfigured by such marks upon their arms and

backs; even the men, without exception, are scarified upon their cheeks. The inhabitants of Kordofan and

Darfur, who are generally prized as slaves, are invariably marked, not only with simple scars, but by

cicatrices raised high above the natural surface by means of salt rubbed into the wounds; these unsightly

deformities are considered to be great personal attractions. The Arab women are full of absurd superstitions;

should a woman be in an interesting condition, she will creep under the body of a strong camel, believing that

the act of passing between the fore and hind legs will endue her child with the strength of the animal. Young

infants are scored with a razor longitudinally down the back and abdomen, to improve their constitutions.

I engaged six strong Tokroorisnatives of Darfurwho agreed to accompany me for five months. These

people are a tribe of Mahometan negroes, of whom I shall speak more hereafter; they are generally very

powerful and courageous, and I preferred a few men of this race to a party entirely composed of Arabs. Our

great difficulty was to procure a slave woman to grind the corn and to make the bread for the people. No

proprietor would let his slave on hire to go upon such a journey, and it was impossible to start without one;

the only resource was to purchase the freedom of some woman, and to engage her as a servant for the trip.

Even this was difficult, as slaves were scarce and in great demand: however, at last I heard of a man who had

a Galla slave who was clever at making bread, as it had been her duty to make cakes for sale in the bazaar

upon market days. After some delays I succeeded in obtaining an interview with both the master and slave at

the same time; the former was an Arab, hard at dealing, but, as I did not wish to drive a bargain, I agreed to

the price, thirtyfive dollars, 7l. The name of the woman was Barrake; she was about twentytwo years of

age, brown in complexion, fat, and strong; rather tall, and altogether she was a fine powerfullooking

woman, but decidedly not pretty; her hair was elaborately dressed in hundreds of long narrow curls, so

thickly smeared with castor oil that the grease had covered her naked shoulders; in addition to this, as she had

been recently under the hands of the hairdresser, there was an amount of fat and other nastiness upon her

I now counted out thirtyfive dollars, which I placed in two piles upon the table, and through the medium of

Mahomet I explained to her that she was no longer a slave, as that sum had purchased her freedom; at the

same time, as it was a large amount that I had paid, I expected she would remain with us as a servant until our

journey should be over, at which time she should receive a certain sum in money, as wages at the usual rate.

Mahomet did not agree with this style of address to a slave, therefore he slightly altered it in the translation,

which I at once detected. The woman looked frightened and uneasy at the conclusion; I immediately asked

Mahomet what he had told her. "Same like master tell to me!" replied the indignant Mahomet. "Then have the

kindness to repeat to me in English what you said to her;" I replied. "I tell that slave woman same like

master's word; I tell her master one very good master, she Barrake one very bad woman; all that good dollars

master pay, too much money for such a bad woman. Now she's master's slave; she belong to master like a

dog; if she not make plenty of good bread, work hard all day, early morning, late in night, master take a big

This was the substance of a translation of my address tinged with Mahomet's colouring, as being more

adapted for the ears of a slave!I My wife was present, and being much annoyed, we both assured the woman

that Mahomet was wrong, and I insisted upon his explaining to her literally that "no Englishman could hold a

slave; that the money I had paid rendered her entirely free; that she would not even be compelled to remain

with us, but she could do as she thought proper; that both her mistress and I should be exceedingly kind to

her, and we would subsequently find her a good situation in Cairo; in the meantime she would receive good

This, Mahomet, much against his will, was obliged to translate literally. The effect was magical; the woman,

who had looked frightened and unhappy, suddenly beamed with smiles, and without any warning she ran

towards me, and in an instant I found myself embraced in her loving arms; she pressed me to her bosom, and

smothered me with castor oily kisses, while her greasy ringlets hung upon my face and neck. How long this

entertainment would have lasted I cannot tell, but I was obliged to cry "Caffa! Caffa!" (enough! enough!) as it

looked improper, and the perfumery was too rich; fortunately my wife was present, but she did not appear to

enjoy it more than I did; my snowwhite blouse was soiled and greasy, and for the rest of the day I was a

disagreeable compound of smells, castor oil, tallow, musk, sandalwood, burnt shells, and Barrake.

Mahomet and Barrake herself, I believe, were the only people who really enjoyed this little event. "Ha!"

Mahomet exclaimed, "this is your own fault! You insisted upon speaking kindly, and telling her that she is

not a slave, now she thinks that she is one of your WIVES!" This was the real fact; the unfortunate Barrake

had deceived herself; never having been free, she could not understand the use of freedom unless she was to

be a wife. She had understood my little address as a proposal, and of course she was disappointed; but, as an

action for breach of promise cannot be pressed in the Soudan, poor Barrake, although free, had not the happy

rights of a freeborn Englishwoman, who can heal her broken heart with a pecuniary plaster, and console

We were ready to start, having our party of servants complete, six TokroorisMoosa, Abdoolahi,

Abderachman, Hassan, Adow, and Hadji Ali, with Mahomet, Wat Gamma, Bacheet, Mahomet secundus (a

When half way to Wat el Negur, we found the whole country in alarm, Mek Nimmur having suddenly made a

foray. He had crossed the Atbara, and plundered the district, and driven off large numbers of cattle and

camels, after having killed a considerable number of people. No doubt the reports were somewhat

exaggerated, but the inhabitants of the district were flying from their villages, with their herds, and were

flocking to Katariff. We arrived at Wat el Negur on the 3d of December, and we now felt the advantage of

our friendship with the good Sheik Achmet, who, being a friend of Mek Nimmur, had saved our effects

during our absence; these would otherwise have been plundered, as the robbers had paid him a visit;he had

removed our tents and baggage to his own house for protection. Not only had he thus protected our effects,

but he had taken the opportunity of delivering the polite message to Mek Nimmur that I had entrusted to his

chargeexpressing a wish to pay him a visit as a countryman and friend of Mr. Mansfield Parkyns, who had

In a few days the whole country was up. Troops of the Dabaina Arabs, under the command of Mahmoud Wat

Said (who had now assumed the chieftainship of the tribe after the death of his brother Atalan), gathered on

the frontier, while about 2,000 Egyptian regulars marched against Gellabat, and attacked the Abyssinians and

Tokrooris, who had united. Several hundreds of the Tokrooris were killed, and the Abyssinians retreated to

the mountains. Large bodies of Egyptian irregulars threatened Mek Nimmur's country, but the wily Mek was

too much for them. The Jalyn Arabs were his friends; and, although they paid tribute to the Egyptian

Government from their frontier villages, they acted as spies, and kept Mek Nimmur au courant of the enemy's

movements. The Hamran Arabs, those mighty hunters with the sword, were thorough Ishmaelites, and

although nominally subject to Egypt, they were well known as secret friends to Mek Nimmur; and it was

believed that they conveyed information of the localities where the Dabaina and Shookeryha Arabs had

collected their herds. Upon these Mek Nimmur had a knack of pouncing unexpectedly, when he was

The dry weather had introduced a season of anarchy along the whole frontier. The Atbara was fordable in

many places, and it no longer formed the impassable barrier that necessitated peace. Mek Nimmur (the

Leopard King) showed the cunning and ability of his namesake by pouncing upon his prey without a

moment's warning, and retreating with equal dexterity. This frontier warfare, skilfully conducted by Mek

Nimmur, was most advantageous to Theodorus, the King of Abyssinia, as the defence of the boundary was

maintained against Egypt by a constant guerilla warfare. Upon several occasions, expeditions on a large scale

had been organized against Mek Nimmur by the GovernorGeneral of the Soudan; but they had invariably

failed, as he retreated to the inaccessible mountains, where he had beaten them with loss, and they had simply

wreaked their vengeance by burning the deserted villages of straw huts in the low lands, that a few dollars

would quickly rebuild. Mek Nimmur was a most unpleasant neighbour to the Egyptian Government, and

accordingly he was a great friend of the King Theodorus; he was, in fact, a shield that protected the heart of

As I have already described, the Base were always at war with everybody; and as Mek Nimmur and the

Abyssinians were constantly fighting with the Egyptians, the passage of the Atbara to the east bank was the

commencement of a territory where the sword and lance represented the only law. The Hamran Arabs dared

not venture with their flocks farther east than Geera, on the Settite, about twentyfive miles from Wat el

Negur. From the point of junction of the Settite with the Atbara opposite Tomat to Geera, they were now

encamped with their herds upon the borders of the river for the dry season. I sent a messenger to their sheik,

Owat, accompanied by Mahomet, with the firman of the Viceroy, and I requested him to supply me with

elephanthunters (aggageers) and guides to accompany me into the Base and Mek Nimmur's country.

My intention was to thoroughly examine all the great rivers of Abyssinia that were tributaries to the Nile.

These were the Settite, Royan, Angrab, Salaam, Rahad, Dinder, and the Blue Nile. If possible, I should

traverse the Galla country, and crossing the Blue Nile, I should endeavour to reach the White Nile. But this

latter idea I subsequently found impracticable, as it would have interfered with the proper season for my

During the absence of Mahomet, I received a very polite message from Mek Nimmur, accompanied by a

present of twenty pounds of coffee, with an invitation to pay him a visit. His country lay between the Settite

river and the Bahr Salaam; thus without his invitation I might have found it difficult to traverse his

territory;so far, all went well. I returned my salaams, and sent word that we intended to hunt through the

Base country, after which we should have the honour of passing a few days with him on our road to the river

Salaam, at which place we intended to hunt elephants and rhinoceros. Mahomet returned, accompanied by a

large party of Hamran Arabs, including several hunters, one of whom was Sheik Abou Do Roussoul, the

nephew of Sheik Owat; as his name in full was too long, he generally went by the abbreviation "Abou Do."

He was a splendid fellow, a little above six feet one, with a light active figure, but exceedingly well

developed muscles: his face was strikingly handsome; his eyes were like those of a giraffe, but the sudden

glance of an eagle lighted them up with a flash during the excitement of conversation, which showed little of

the giraffe's gentle character. Abou Do was the only tall man of the party, the others were of middle height,

with the exception of a little fellow named Jali, who was not above five feet four inches, but wonderfully

muscular, and in expression a regular daredevil. There were two parties of hunters, one under Abou Do, and

the other consisting of four brothers Sherrif. The latter were the most celebrated aggageers among the

renowned tribe of the Hamran; their father and grandfather had been mighty Nimrods, and the broadswords

wielded by their strong arms had descended to the men who now upheld the prestige of the ancient blades.

The eldest was Taher Sherrif; his second brother, Roder Sherrif, was a very small, activelooking man, with

a withered left arm. An elephant had at one time killed his horse, and on the same occasion had driven its

sharp tusk through the arm of the rider, completely splitting the limb, and splintering the bone from the

elbowjoint to the wrist to such an extent, that by degrees the fragments had sloughed away, and the arm had

become shrivelled and withered. It now resembled a mass of dried leather, twisted into a deformity, without

the slightest shape of an arm; this was about fourteen inches in length from the shoulder; the stiff and crippled

In spite of his maimed condition, Roder Sherrif was the most celebrated leader in the elephant hunt. His was

the dangerous post to ride close to the head of the infuriated animal and provoke the charge, and then to lead

the elephant in pursuit, while the aggageers attacked it from behind; it was in the performance of this duty

that he had met with the accident, as his horse had fallen over some hidden obstacle, and was immediately

caught. Being an exceedingly light weight he had continued to occupy this important position in the hunt, and

the rigid fingers of the left hand served as a hook, upon which he could hang the reins.

My battery of rifles was now laid upon a mat for examination; they were in beautiful condition, and they

excited the admiration of the entire party. The perfection of workmanship did not appear to interest them so

much as the size of the bores; they thrust their fingers down each muzzle, until they at last came to the

"Baby," when, finding that two fingers could be easily introduced, they at once fell in love with that rifle in

particular. My men explained that it was a "Jenna el Mootfah" (child of a cannon). "Sahe, Jenna el Mootfah

kabeer," they replied (it is true, it is the child of a very big cannon). Their delight was made perfect by the

exhibition of the halfpound explosive shell, the effects of which were duly explained. I told them that I was

an old elephant hunter, but that I did not hunt for the sake of the ivory, as I wished to explore the country to

discover the cause of the Nile inundations, therefore I wished to examine carefully the various Abyssinian

rivers; but as I had heard they were wonderful sportsmen, I should like them to join my party, and we could

both hunt and explore together. They replied that they knew every nook and corner of the entire country as

far as Mek Nimmur's and the Base, but that in the latter country we must be prepared to fight, as they made a

practice of showing no quarter to the Base, because they received none from them; thus we should require a

strong party. I pointed to my rifles, which I explained were odds against the Base, who were without

In the interval I was busily engaged in making bullets for the journey, with an admixture of one pound of

quicksilver to twelve of lead. This hardens the bullet at the same time that it increases the weight, but great

caution must be observed in the manufacture, as the mercury, being heavier than the lead, will sink to the

bottom, unless stirred with a redhot iron when mixed. The admixture must take place in small quantities,

otherwise the quicksilver will evaporate if exposed to a great heat. Thus the molten lead should be kept upon

the fire in a large reservoir, while a portion of quicksilver should be added regularly to every ladleful taken

for immediate use. This should be well stirred before it is poured into the mould. Bullets formed of this

My preparations for the journey were soon completed. We had passed a most agreeable time at Wat el Negur.

Although I had not had much shooting, I gained much experienee in the country, having made several

extensive journeys in the neighbourhood, and our constant conversations with the sheik had somewhat

improved my Arabic. I had discovered several plants hitherto unknown to me,among others, a peculiar

bulb, from which I had prepared excellent arrowroot. This produced several tubers resembling sweet

potatoes, but exceedingly long and thin; it was known by the Arabs as "baboon." I pierced with a nail a sheet

of tin from the lining of a packing case, and I quickly improvised a grater, upon which I reduced the bulb to

pulp. This I washed in water, and when strained through cotton cloth, it was allowed to settle for several

hours. The clear water was then poured off; and the thick sediment, when dried in the sun, became arrowroot

of the best quality. The Arabs had no idea of this preparation, but simply roasted the roots on the embers.

On the 17th of August, 1861, accompanied by the German Florian, we started from Wat el Negur, and said

goodbye to our very kind friend, Sheik Achmet, who insisted upon presenting us with a strong but

exceedingly light angarep (bedstead), suitable for camel travelling, and an excellent waterskin, that we

Florian was in a weak condition, as he had suffered much from fever throughout the rainy season. He started

under disadvantageous circumstances, as he had purchased a horse that was a bad bargain. The Arabs, who

are sharp practitioners, had dealt hardly with him, as they had sold him a wretched brute that could make no

other use of its legs than to kick. Of course they had imposed upon poor Florian a long history of how this

horse in a giraffe hunt had been the first at the death, and he, the deceived, had promised to shoot a

hippopotamus to give them in barter. This he had already done, and he had exchanged a river horse, worth

Florian had never mounted a horse in his lifetime as his shooting had always been on foot. This he now

explained to us, although the confession was quite unnecessary, as his first attempt at mounting was made

Throughout his journey to Geera on the Settite, there was a constant difference of opinion between him and

his new purchase, until we suddenly heard a heavy fall. Upon looking back, I perceived Florian like a spread

eagle on his stomach upon the ground, lying before the horse, who was quietly looking at his new master. On

another occasion, I heard a torrent of abuse expressed in German, and upon turning round I found him

clinging to the neck of his animal, having lost both stirrups, while his rifle had fallen to the ground. He was

now cursing his beast, whom he accused of wilful murder, for having replied by a kick to a slight tap he had

administered with a stick. I could not help suggesting that he would find it awkward should he be obliged to

escape from an elephant upon that animal in rough and difficult ground where good riding would be essential;

and he declared that nothing should tempt him either to hunt or to escape from any beast on horseback, as he

Upon arriving at Geera, we bivouacked upon the sandy bed of the river, which had much changed in

appearance since our last visit. Although much superior to the Atbara, the stream was confined to a deep

channel about 120 yards wide, in the centre of the now dry bed of rounded pebbles and sand. Exactly

opposite were extensive encampments of the Hamran Arabs, who were congregated in thousands between

this point and the Atbara junction. Their limit for pasturage was about six miles up stream from Geera,

beyond which point they dare not trust their flocks on account of their enemies, the Base.

We were immediately visited, upon our arrival, by a number of Arabs, including the Sheik Abou Do, from

whom I purchased two good milk goats to accompany us upon our journey. I had already procured one at

Wat el Negur in exchange for a few strips of hippopotamus hide for making whips.

Lions were roaring all night close to our sleeping place; there were many of these animals in this

On the following morning, at daybreak, several Arabs arrived with a report that elephants had been drinking

in the river within half an hour's march of our sleeping place. I immediately started with my men,

accompanied by Florian, and we shortly arrived upon the tracks of the herd. I had three Hamran Arabs as

trackers, one of whom, Taher Noor, had engaged to accompany us throughout the expedition.

For about eight miles we followed the spoor through highdried grass and thorny bush, until we at length

arrived at dense jungle of kittar,the most formidable of the hooked thorn mimosas. Here the tracks

appeared to wander; some elephants having travelled straight ahead, while others had strayed to the right and

left. While engaged in determining the path of the herd, we observed four giraffes at about half a mile distant,

but they had already perceived us, and were in full flight. For about two hours we travelled upon the

circuitous tracks of the elephants to no purpose, when we suddenly were startled by the shrill trumpet of one

of these animals in the thick thorns, a few hundred yards to our left. The ground was so intensely hard and

dry that it was impossible to distinguish the new tracks from the old, which crossed and recrossed in all

directions. I therefore decided to walk carefully along the outskirts of the jungle, trusting to find their place of

entrance by the fresh broken boughs. In about an hour we had thus examined two or three miles, without

discovering a clue to their recent path, when we turned round a clump of bushes, and suddenly came in view

of two grand elephants, standing at the edge of the dense thorns; having our wind, they vanished instantly

into the the jungle. We could not follow them, as their course was down wind; we therefore made a circuit to

leeward for about a mile, and, finding that the elephants had not crossed in that direction, we felt sure that we

must come upon them with the wind in our favour should they still be within the thorny jungle; this was

With the greatest labour I led the way, creeping frequently upon my hands and knees to avoid the hooks of

the kittar bush, and occasionally listening for a sound. At length, after upwards of an hour passed in this slow

and fatiguing advance, I distinctly heard the flap of an elephant's ear, shortly followed by the deep guttural

sigh of one of those animals, within a few paces, but so dense was the screen of jungle that I could see

nothing. We waited for some minutes, but not the slightest sound could be heard; the elephants were aware of

danger, and they were, like ourselves, listening attentively for the first intimation of an enemy. This was a

highly exciting moment; should they charge, there would not be a possibility of escape, as the hooked thorns

rendered any sudden movement almost impracticable. In another moment, there was a tremendous crash; and,

with a sound like a whirlwind, the herd dashed through the crackling jungle. I rushed forward, as I was

uncertain whether they were in advance or retreat; leaving a small sample of my nose upon a kittar thorn, and

tearing my way, with naked arms, through what, in cold blood, would have appeared impossible, I caught

sight of two elephants leading across my path, with the herd following in a dense mass behind them. Firing a

shot at the leading elephant, simply in the endeavour to check the herd, I repeated with the lefthand barrel at

the head of his companion; this staggered him, and threw the main body into confusion: they immediately

closed up in a dense mass, and bore everything before them, but the herd exhibited merely an impenetrable

array of hind quarters wedged together so firmly that it was impossible to obtain a head or shoulder shot. I

was within fifteen paces of them, and so compactly were they packed, that with all their immense strength

they could not at once force so extensive a front through the tough and powerful branches of the dense kittar.

For about half a minute they were absolutely checked, and they bored forward with all their might in their

determination to open a road through the matted thorns: the elastic boughs, bent from their position, sprang

back with dangerous force, and would have fractured the skull of any one who came within their sweep. A

very large elephant was on the left flank, and for an instant this turned obliquely to the left; I quickly seized

the opportunity and fired the "Baby," with an explosive shell, aimed far back in the flank, trusting that it

would penetrate beneath the opposite shoulder. The recoil of the "Baby," loaded with ten drachms of the

strongest powder and a halfpound shell, spun me round like a topit was difficult to say which was

staggered the most severely, the elephant or myself; however, we both recovered, and I seized one of my

double rifles, a Reilly No. 10, that was quickly pushed into my hand by my Tokroori, Hadji Ali. This was

done just in time, as an elephant from the baffled herd turned sharp round, and, with its immense ears cocked,

it charged down upon us with a scream of rage. "One of us she must have if I miss!"

This was the first downright charge of an African elephant that I had seen, and instinctively I followed my

old Ceylon plan of waiting for a close shot. She lowered her head when within about six yards, and I fired

low for the centre of the forehead, exactly in the swelling above the root of the trunk. She collapsed to the

shot, and fell dead, with a heavy shock, upon the ground. At the same moment, the thorny barrier gave way

before the pressure of the herd, and the elephants disappeared in the thick jungle, through which it was

I had suffered terribly from the hooked thorns, and the men likewise. This had been a capital trial for my

Tokrooris, who had behaved remarkably well, and had I gained much confidence by my successful forehead

shot at the elephant when in full charge; but I must confess that this is the only instance in which I have

succeeded in killing an African elephant by the front shot, although I have steadily tried the experiment upon

Florian had not had an opportunity of firing a shot, as I had been in his way, and he could not pass on one

We had very little time to examine the elephant, as we were far from home, and the sun was already low. I

felt convinced that the other elephant could not be far off, after having received the "Baby's" halfpound shell

carefully directed, and I resolved to return on the following morning with many people and camels to divide

the flesh. It was dark by the time we arrived at the tents, and the news immediately spread through the Arab

On the following morning we started, and, upon arrival at the dead elephant, we followed the tracks of that

wounded by the "Baby." The blood upon the bushes guided us in a few minutes to the spot where the

elephant lay dead, at about 300 yards' distance. The whole day passed in flaying the two animals, and cutting

off the flesh, which was packed in large gum sacks, with which the camels were loaded. I was curious to

examine the effect of the halfpound shell: it had entered the flank on the right side, breaking the rib upon

which it had exploded; it had then passed through the stomach and the lower portion of the lungs, both of

which were terribly shattered, and breaking one of the foreribs on the left side, it had lodged beneath the

skin of the shoulder. This was irresistible work, and the elephant had evidently dropped in a few minutes after

The conical bullet of quicksilver and lead, propelled by seven drachms of powder, had entered the exact

centre of the forehead of the elephant No. 1, and, having passed completely through the brain and the back

part of the skull, we found it sticking fast in the spine, BETWEEN THE SHOULDERS. These No. 10

Reillys* were wonderfully powerful rifles, and exceedingly handy; they weighed fourteen pounds, and were

admirably adapted for dangerous game. I measured both the elephants accurately with a tape: that killed by

the "Baby" was nine feet six inches from the forefoot to the shoulder, the other was eight feet three inches. It

is a common mistake that twice the circumference of the foot is the height of an elephant; there is no such

rule that can be depended upon, as their feet vary in size without any relative proportion to the height of the

* They are now in England at Mr. Reilly's, No. 215, Oxford Street, having accompanied me throughout my

A most interesting fact had occurred: when I found the larger elephant, killed by the "Baby," I noticed an old

wound unhealed and full of matter in the front of the left shoulder; the bowels were shot through, and were

green in various places. Florian suggested that it must be an elephant that I had wounded at Wat el Negur; we

tracked the course of the bullet most carefully, until we at length discovered my unmistakeable bullet of

quicksilver and lead, almost uninjured, in the fleshy part of the thigh, imbedded in an unhealed wound. Thus,

by a curious chance, upon my first interview with African elephants by daylight, I had killed the identical

elephant that I had wounded at Wat el Negur fortythree days ago in the dhurra plantation, twentyeight

miles distant! Both these elephants were females. It was the custom of these active creatures to invade the

dhurra fields from this great distance, and to return to these almost impenetrable thorny jungles, where they

On our return to camp, the rejoicings were great; the women yelled as usual, and I delighted the Hamrans by

dividing the meat, and presenting them with the hides for shields. I gave Abou Do, and all the hunters, and

my camel drivers, large quantities of fat; and I found that I was accredited as a brother hunter by the knights

of the sword, who acknowledged that their weapons were useless in the thick jungles of Tooleet, the name of

WE started from Geera, on the 23d of December, with our party complete. The Hamran swordhunters were

Abou Do, Jali, and Suleiman. My chief tracker was Taher Noor, who, although a good hunter, was not a

professional aggahr, and I was accompanied by the father of Abou Do, who was a renowned "howarti," or

harpooner of hippopotami. This magnificent old man might have been Neptune himself; he stood about six

feet two, and his grizzled locks hung upon his shoulders in thick and massive curls, while his deep bronze

features could not have been excelled in beauty of outline. A more classical figure I have never beheld than

the old Abou Do with his harpoon, as he first breasted the torrent, and then landed dripping from the waves to

join our party from the Arab camp on the opposite side of the river. In addition to my Tokrooris, I had

engaged nine camels, each with a separate driver, of the Hamrans, who were to accompany us throughout the

expedition. These people were glad to engage themselves, with their camels included, at one and a half

dollars (six shillings) per month, for man and beast as one. We had not sufficient baggage to load five camels,

Hardly were we mounted and fairly started, than the monkeylike agility of our aggageers was displayed in a

variety of antics, that were far more suited to performance in a circus than to a party of steady and

experienced hunters, who wished to reserve the strength of their horses for a trying journey.

Abou Do was mounted on a beautiful Abyssinian horse, a grey; Suleiman rode a rough and inferiorlooking

beast; while little Jali, who was the pet of the party, rode a grey mare, not exceeding fourteen hands in height,

which matched her rider exactly in fire, spirit, and speed. Never was there a more perfect picture of a wild

Arab horseman than Jali on his mare. Hardly was he in the saddle, than away flew the mare over the loose

shingles that formed the dry bed of the river, scattering the rounded pebbles in the air from her flinty hoofs,

while her rider in the vigour of delight threw himself almost under her belly while at full speed, and picked

up stones from the ground, which he flung, and again caught as they descended. Never were there more

complete Centaurs than these Hamran Arabs; the horse and man appeared to be one animal, and that of the

most elastic nature, that could twist and turn with the suppleness of a snake; the fact of their being separate

beings was proved by the rider springing to the earth with his drawn sword while the horse was in full gallop

over rough and difficult ground, and clutching the mane, he again vaulted into the saddle with the agility of a

monkey, without once checking the speed. The fact of being on horseback had suddenly altered the character

of these Arabs; from a sedate and proud bearing, they had become the wildest examples of the most savage

disciples of Nimrod; excited by enthusiasm, they shook their naked blades aloft till the steel trembled in their

grasp, and away they dashed over rocks, through thorny bush, across ravines, up and down steep inclinations,

engaging in a mimic hunt, and going through the various acts supposed to occur in the attack of a furious

elephant. I must acknowledge that, in spite of my admiration for their wonderful dexterity, I began to doubt

their prudence. I had three excellent horses for my wife and myself; the Hamran hunters had only one for

each; and, if the commencement were an example of their usual style of horsemanship, I felt sure that a dozen

horses would not be sufficient for the work before us. However, it was not the moment to offer advice, as

The women raised their loud and shrill yell at parting, and our party of about twentyfive persons, with nine

camels, six horses, and two donkeys, exclusive of the German Florian, with his kicking giraffehunter, and

attendants, ascended the broken slope that formed the broad valley of the Settite river.

There was very little game in the neighbourhood, as it was completely overrun by the Arabs and their flocks;

and we were to march about fifty miles E.S.E. before we should arrive in the happy huntinggrounds of the

Base country, where we were led to expect great results. Previous to leaving Wat el Negur I had thoroughly

drilled my Tokrooris in their duties as gunbearers, which had established a discipline well exemplified in

the recent affair with the elephants. I had entrusted to them my favourite rifles, and had instructed them in

their use; each man paid particular regard to the rifle that he carried, and, as several were of the same pattern,

they had marked them with small pieces of rag tied round the trigger guards. This esprit de corps was most

beneficial to the preservation of the arms, which were kept in admirable order. Mahomet, the dragoman, rode

my spare horse, and carried my short doublebarrelled rifle, slung across his back, in the place of his pistols

and gun, which he had wilfully thrown upon the desert when leaving Berber. As the horse was restive, and he

had placed the hammers upon the caps, his shirt caught in the lock, and one barrel suddenly exploded, which,

with an elephantcharge of six drachms of powder, was rather startling, within a few inches of his ear, and

narrowly escaped the back of his skull. Florian possessed a singlebarrelled rifle, which he declared had

accompanied him through many years of sports: this weapon had become so fond of shooting, that it was

constantly going off on its own account, to the great danger of the bystanders, and no sooner were we well off

on our journey, than off went this abominable instrument in a spontaneous feu de joie, in the very midst of

us! Its master was accordingly OFF likewise, as his horse gave the accustomed kick, that was invariably the

deed of separation. However, we cantered on ahead of the dangerous party, and joined the aggageers, until we

at length reached the table land above the Settite valley. Hardly were we arrived, than we noticed in the

distance a flock of sheep and goats attended by some Arab boys. Suddenly, as Don Quixote charged the

sheep, lance in hand, the aggageers started off in full gallop, and as the frightened flock scattered in all

directions, in a few moments they were overtaken by the hunters, each of whom snatched a kid, or a goat,

from the ground while at full speed, and placed it upon the neck of his horse, without either halting or

dismounting. This was a very independent proceeding; but, as the flock belonged to their own tribe, they

laughed at the question of property that I had immediately raised, and assured me that this was the Arab

custom of insuring their breakfast, as we should kill no game during that day. In this they were mistaken, as I

In a day's march through a beautiful country, sometimes upon the high table land to cut off a bend in the

river, at other times upon the margin of the stream in the romantic valley, broken into countless hills and

ravines covered with mimosas, we arrived at Ombrega (mother of the thorn), about twentyfour miles from

Geera. In that country, although uninhabited from fear of the Base, every locality upon the borders of the

river has a name. Ombrega is a beautiful situation, where white sandstone cliffs of about two hundred feet

perpendicular height, wall in the river, which, even at this dry season, was a noble stream impassable except

at certain places, where it was fordable. Having descended the valley we bivouacked in the shade of thick

nabbuk trees (Rhamnus lotus), whose evergreen foliage forms a pleasing exception to the general barrenness

of the mimosas during the season of drought. We soon arranged a restingplace, and cleared away the grass

that produced the thorn which had given rise to the name of Ombrega, and in a short time we were

comfortably settled for the night. We were within fifty yards of the riverthe horses were luxuriating in the

green grass that grew upon its banks, and the camels were hobbled, to prevent them from wandering from the

protection of the camp fires, as we were now in the wilderness, where the Base by day, and the lion and

leopard by night, were hostile to man and beast. The goats, upon which we depended for our supply of milk,

were objects of especial care: these were picketed to pegs driven in the ground close to the fires, and men

were ordered to sleep on either side. We had three greyhounds belonging to the Arabs, and it was arranged

The dense shade of the nabbuk had been chosen by the Arabs as a screen to the campfires, that might

otherwise attract the Base, who might be prowling about the country; but, as a rule, however pleasant may be

the shade during the day, the thick jungle, and even the overhanging boughs of a tree, should be avoided at

night. Snakes and noxious insects generally come forth after darkmany of these inhabit the boughs of trees,

and may drop upon the bed of the unwary sleeper; beasts of prey invariably inhabit the thick jungles, in

which they may creep unperceived to within springing distance of an object in the camp.

We were fast asleep a little after midnight, when we were awakened by the loud barking of the dogs, and by a

confusion in the camp. Jumping up on the instant, I heard the dogs, far away in the dark jungles, barking in

different directions. One of the goats was gone! A leopard had sprung into the camp, and had torn a goat from

its fastening, although tied to a peg, between two men, close to a large fire. The dogs had given chase; but, as

usual in such cases, they were so alarmed as to be almost useless. We quickly collected firebrands, and

searched the jungles, and shortly we arrived where a dog was barking violently. Near this spot we heard the

moaning of some animal among the bushes, and upon a search with firebrands we discovered the goat,

helpless upon the ground, with its throat lacerated by the leopard. A sudden cry from the dog at a few yards'

The goat was carried to the camp, when it shortly died. We succeeded in recalling two of the dogs; but the

third, that was the best, was missing, having been struck by the leopard. We searched for the body in vain,

On the following day, we discovered fresh tracks of elephants at sunrise. No time was lost in starting, and

upon crossing the river, we found that a large herd had been drinking, and had retreated by a peculiar ravine.

This cleft through the sandstone rocks, which rose like walls for about a hundred feet upon either side,

formed an alley about twenty yards broad, the bottom consisting of snowwhite sand that, in the rainy

season, formed the bed of a torrent from the upper country. This herd must have comprised about fifty

elephants, that must have been in the same locality for several days, as the ground was trampled in all

directions, and the mimosas upon the higher land were uprooted in great numnbers: but after following upon

the tracks for several hours with great difficulty, owing to the intricacy of their windings upon the dry and

hard ground, we met with a sign fatal to success,the footprints of two men. In a short time we met the men

themselves, two elephanthunters who had followed the herd on foot, with the sword as their only weapon:

The Sheik Abou Do was furious at the audacity of these two Hamrans, who had dared to disturb our

In addition to the tracks of the herd, we had seen that of a large single bull elephant; this we now carefully

followed, and, after many windings, we felt convinced that he was still within the broken ground that formed

the Settite valley. After some hours' most difficult tracking, Taher Noor, who was leading the way, suddenly

sank gently upon all fours. This movement was immediately, but quietly imitated by the whole party, and I

quickly distinguished a large grey mass about sixty yards distant among the bushes, which, being quite

leafless, screened the form of the bull elephant, as seen through a veil of treble gauze. I felt quite sure that we

should fail in a close approach with so large a party. I therefore proposed that I should lead the way with the

Ceylon No. 10, and creep quite close to the elephant, while one of th aggageers should attempt to sabre the

back sinew. Jali whispered, that the sword was useless in the high and thick grass in which he was standing,

surrounded by thorns; accordingly I told Florian to follow me, and I crept forward. With difficulty, upon

hands and knees, I avoided the hooked thorns that would otherwise have fastened upon my clothes, and, with

the wind favourable, I at length succeeded in passing through the intervening jungle, and arrived at a small

plot of grass that was sufficiently high to reach the shoulder of the elephant. This open space was about

fifteen yards in diameter, and was surrounded upon all sides by thick jungle. He was a splendid bull, and

stood temptingly for a forehead shot, according to Ceylon practice, as he was exactly facing me at about ten

yards' distance. Having been fortunate with the front shot at Geera, I determined to try the effect; I aimed

low, and crack went the old Ceylon No. 10 rifle, with seven drachms of powder, and a ball of quicksilver and

lead. For an instant the smoke in the high grass obscured the effect, but almost immediately after, I heard a

tremendous rush, and, instead of falling, as I had expected, I saw the elephant crash headlong through the

thorny jungle. No one was behind me, as Florian had misunderstood the arrangement that he was to

endeavour to obtain a quick shot should I fail. I began to believe in what I had frequently heard asserted, that

the forehead shot so fatal to the Indian elephant had no effect upon the African species, except by mere

chance. I had taken so steady an aim at the convexity at the root of the trunk, that every advantage had been

given to the bullet; but the rifle that in Ceylon had been almost certain at an elephant, had completely failed.

It was quite impossible to follow the animal through the jungle of hooked thorns. On our way toward the

camp we saw tracks of rhinoceroses, giraffes, buffaloes, and a variety of antelopes, but none of the animals

On the following morning we started, several times fording the river to avoid the bends: our course was due

east. After the first three hours' ride through a beautiful country bordering the Settite valley, which we several

times descended, we came in clear view of the magnificent range of mountains, that from Geera could hardly

be discerned; this was the great range of Abyssinia, some points of which exceed 10,000 feet. The country

that we now traversed was so totally uninhabited that it was devoid of all footprints of human beings; even

the sand by the river's side, that like the snow confessed every print, was free from all traces of man. The

We had several times disturbed antelopes during the early portion of the march, and we had just ascended

from the rugged slopes of the valley, when we observed a troop of about a hundred baboons, who were

gathering gum arabic from the mimosas; upon seeing us, they immediately waddled off. "Would the lady like

to have a girrit (baboon)?" exclaimed the everexcited Jali: being answered in the affirmative, away dashed

the three hunters in full gallop after the astonished apes, who, finding themselves pursued, went off at their

best speed. The ground was rough, being full of broken hollows, covered scantily with mimosas, and the

stupid baboons, instead of turning to the right into the rugged and steep valley of the Settite, where they

would have been secure from the aggageers, kept a straight course before the horses. It was a curious hunt;

some of the very young baboons were riding on their mothers' backs: these were now going at their best pace,

holding on to their maternal steeds, and looking absurdly human; but, in a few minutes, as we closely

followed the Arabs, we were all in the midst of the herd, and with great dexterity two of the aggageers, while

at full speed, stooped like falcons from their saddles, and seized each a halfgrown ape by the back of the

neck and hoisted them upon the necks of the horses. Instead of biting, as I had expected, the astonished

captives sat astride of the horses, and clung tenaciously with both arms to the necks of their steeds, screaming

with fear. The hunt was over, and we halted to secure the prisoners. Dismounting, to my surprise the Arabs

immediately stripped from a mimosa several thongs of bark, and having tied the baboons by the neck, they

gave them a merciless whipping with their powerful coorbatches of hippopotamus hide. It was in vain that I

remonstrated against this harsh treatment; they persisted in the punishment, otherwise they declared that the

baboons would bite, but if well whipped they would become "miskeen" (humble). At length my wife insisted

upon mercy, and the unfortunate captives wore an expression of countenance like prisoners about to be led to

execution, and they looked imploringly at our faces, in which they evidently discovered some sympathy with

their fate. They were quickly placed on horseback before their captors, and once more we continued our

We had hardly ridden half a mile, when I perceived a fine bull tetel (Antelopus Bubalis) standing near a bush

a few hundred yards distant. Motioning to the party to halt, I dismounted, and with the little Fletcher rifle I

endeavoured to obtain a shot. When within about a hundred and seventy yards, he observed our party, and I

was obliged to take the shot, although I could have approached unseen to a closer distance, had his attention

not been attracted by the noise of the horses. He threw his head up preparatory to starting off, and he was just

upon the move as I touched the trigger. He fell like a stone to the shot, but almost immediately he regained

his feet, and bounded off, receiving a bullet from the second barrel without a flinch; in full speed he rushed

away across the party of aggageers about three hundred yards distant. Out dashed Abou Do from the ranks on

his active grey horse, and away he flew after the wounded tetel; his long hair floating in the wind, his naked

sword in hand, and his heels digging into the flanks of his horse, as though armed with spurs in the last finish

of a race. It was a beautiful course; Abou Do hunted like a cunning greyhound; the tetel turned, and taking

advantage of the double, he cut off the angle; succeeding by the manoeuvre, he again followed at tremendous

speed over the numerous inequalities of the ground, gaining in the race until he was within twenty yards of

the tetel, when we lost sight of both game and hunter in the thick bushes. By this time I had regained my

horse, that was brought to meet me, and I followed to the spot, towards which my wife, and the aggageers

encumbered with the unwilling apes, were already hastening. Upon arrival I found, in high yellow grass

beneath a large tree, the tetel dead, and Abou Do wiping his bloody sword, surrounded by the foremost of the

party. He had hamstrung the animal so delicately, that the keen edge of the blade was not injured against the

bone. My two bullets had passed through the tetel; the first was too high, having entered above the

shoulderthis had dropped the animal for a moment; the second was through the flank. The Arabs now tied

the baboons to trees, and employed themselves in carefully skinning the tetel so as to form a sack from the

hide; they had about half finished the operation, when we were disturbed by a peculiar sound at a

considerable distance in the jungle, which, being repeated, we knew to be the cry of buffaloes. In an instant

the tetel was neglected, the aggageers mounted their horses, and leaving my wife with a few men to take

charge of the game, accompanied by Florian we went in search of the buffaloes. This part of the country was

covered with grass about nine feet high, that was reduced to such extreme dryness that the stems broke into

several pieces like glass as we brushed through it. The jungle was open, composed of thorny mimosas at such

wide intervals, that a horse could be ridden at considerable speed if accustomed to the country. Altogether it

was the perfection of ground for shooting, and the chances were in favour of the rifle.

We had proceeded carefully about half a mile when I heard a rustling in the grass, and I shortly perceived a

bull buffalo standing alone beneath a tree, close to the sandy bed of a dried stream, about a hundred yards

distant between us and the animal; the grass had been entirely destroyed by the trampling of a large herd. I

took aim at the shoulder with one of my No. 10 Reilly rifles, and the buffalo rushed forward at the shot, and

fell about a hundred paces beyond in the bush. At the report of the shot, the herd that we had not observed,

which had been lying upon the sandy bed of the stream, rushed past us with a sound like thunder, in a cloud

of dust raised by several hundreds of large animals in full gallop. I could hardly see them distinctly, and I

waited for a good chance, when presently a mighty bull separated from the rest, and gave me a fair shoulder

shot. I fired a little too forward, and missed the shoulder; but I made a still better shot by mistake, as the

Reilly bullet broke the spine through the neck, and dropped him dead. Florian, poor fellow, had not the

necessary tools for the work, and one of his light guns produced no effect. Now came the time for the

aggageers. Away dashed Jali on his fiery mare, closely followed by Abou Do and Suleiman, who in a few

instants were obscured in the cloud of dust raised by the retreating buffaloes. As soon as I could mount my

horse that had been led behind me, I followed at full speed, and spurring hard, I shortly came in sight of the

three aggageers, not only in the dust, but actually among the rear buffaloes of the herd. Suddenly, Jali almost

disappeared from the saddle as he leaned forward with a jerk, and seized a fine young buffalo by the tail. In a

moment Abou Do and Suleiman sprang from their horses, and I arrived just in time to assist them in securing

a fine little bull of about twelve hands high, whose horns were six or seven inches long. A pretty fight we had

with the young Hercules. The Arabs stuck to him like bulldogs, in spite of his tremendous struggles, and

Florian, with other men, shortly arriving, we secured him by lashing his legs together with our belts until

impromptu ropes could be made with mimosa bark. I now returned to the spot where we had left my wife and

the tetel. I found her standing about fifty yards from the spot with a double rifle cocked, awaiting an expected

charge from one of the buffaloes that, separated from the herd, had happened to rush in her direction.

Mahomet had been in an awful fright, and was now standing secure behind his mistress. I rode through the

grass with the hope of getting a shot, but the animal had disappeared. We returned to the dead tetel and to our

captive baboons; but times had changed since we had left them. One had taken advantage of our absence,

and, having bitten through his tether, he had escaped; the other had used force instead of cunning, and, in

attempting to tear away from confinement, had strangled himself with the slipknot of the rope.

The aggageers now came up with the young buffalo. This was a great prize, as zoological specimens were

much sought after at Cassala by an agent from Italy, who had given contracts for a supply. My hunters, to

whom I willingly gave my share in the animal, left one of their party with several of my people to obtain the

assistance of the cameldrivers, who were not far distant in the rear; these were to bring the flesh of the

We now pushed on ahead, and at 5 P.M. we arrived at the spot on the margin of the Settite river at which we

In this position, the valley of the Settite had changed its character: instead of the rugged and broken slopes on

either side of the river, ascending gradually to the high table lands, the east bank of the river was low, and

extended, in a perfect flat for about eight miles, to the foot of an abrupt range of hills; the base had many ages

ago formed the margin of the stream, which had washed this enormous mass of soil towards the Atbara river,

to be carried by the Nile for a deposit in Lower Egypt. During the rainy season, the river overflowed its

banks, and attained a width in many places of six and seven hundred yards. The soil was rich, and, having

imbibed much moisture from a periodical overflow, it gave birth to thick jungles of nabbuk (Rhamnus lotus),

together with luxuriant grass, which being beautifully green while all other leaves and herbage were parched

and withered, afforded pasturage and shade that attracted a number of wild animals. For many miles on either

side the river was fringed with dense groves of the green nabbuk, but upon the east bank, an island had been

formed of about three hundred acres; this was a perfect oasis of verdure, covered with large nabbuk trees,

about thirty feet high, and forming a mixture of the densest coverts, with small open glades of rich but low

herbage. To reach this island, upon which we were to encamp, it was necessary to cross the arm of the river,

that was now dry, with the exception of deep pools, in one of which we perceived a large bull buffalo

drinking, just as we descended the hill. As this would be close to the larder, I stalked to within ninety yards,

and fired a Reilly No. 10 into his back, as his head inclined to the water. For the moment he fell upon his

knees, but recovering immediately, he rushed up the steep bank of the island, receiving my lefthand barrel

between the shoulders, and he disappeared in the dense covert of green nabbuk on the margin. As we were to

camp within a few yards of the spot, he was close to home; therefore, having crossed the river, we carefully

followed the blood tracks through the jungle; but, after having pushed our way for about twenty paces

through the dense covert, I came to the wise conclusion that it was not the place for following a wounded

buffalo, and that we should find him dead on the next morning. A few yards upon our right hand was a

beautiful open glade, commanding a view of the river, and surrounded by the largest nabbuk trees, that

afforded a delightful shade in the midst of the thick covert. This was a spot that in former years had been used

by the aggageers as a camp, and we accordingly dismounted, and turned the horses to graze upon the

welcome grass. Each horse was secured to a peg by a long leathern thong, as the lions in this neighbourhood

We employed ourselves until the camels should arrive, in cutting thorn branches, and constructing a zareeba,

or fenced camp, to protect our animals during the night from the attack of wild beasts. I also hollowed out a

thick green bush to form an arbour, as a retreat during the heat of the day, and in a short space of time we

were prepared for the reception of the camels and effects. The river had cast up immense stores of dry wood;

this we had collected, and, by the time the camels arrived with the remainder of our party after dark, huge

fires were blazing high in air, the light of which had guided them direct to our camp. They were heavily laden

with meat, which is the Arab's great source of happiness, therefore in a few minutes the whole party was

busily employed in cutting the flesh into long thin strips to dry; these were hung in festoons over the

surrounding trees, while the fires were heaped with titbits of all descriptions. I had chosen a remarkably

snug position for ourselves; the two angareps (stretchers) were neatly arranged in the middle of a small open

space free from overhanging boughs; near these blazed a large fire, upon which were roasting a row of

marrowbones of buffalo and tetel, while the table was spread with a clean cloth, and arranged for dinner.

The woman Barrake, who had discovered with regret that she was not a wife but a servant, had got over the

disappointment, and was now making dhurra cakes upon the doka: this is a round earthenware tray about

eighteen inches in diameter, which, supported upon three stones or lumps of earth, over a fire of glowing

embers, forms a hearth. Slices of liver, well peppered with cayenne and salt, were grilling on the gridiron, and

we were preparing to dine, when a terrific roar within a hundred and fifty yards informed us that a lion was

also thinking of dinner. A confusion of tremendous roars proceeding from several lions followed the first

round, and my aggageers quietly remarked, "There is no danger for the horses tonight, the lions have found

Such a magnificent chorus of bass voices I had never heard; the jungle cracked, as with repeated roars they

dragged the carcase of the buffalo through the thorns to the spot where they intended to devour it. That which

was music to our ears was discord to that of Mahomet, who with terror in hs face came to us and exclaimed:

"Master, what's that? What for master and the missus come to this bad country? That's one bad kind will eat

the missus in the night! Perhaps he come and eat Mahomet!" This afterthought was too much for him, and

Bacheet immediately comforted him by telling the most horrible tales of death and destruction that had been

This was a signal for storytelling, when suddenly the aggageers changed the conversation by a few tales of

the Base natives, which so thoroughly eclipsed the dangers of wild beasts, that in a short time the entire party

would almost have welcomed a lion, provided would he only have agreed to protect them from the Base. In

this very spot where we were then camped, a party of Arab hunters had, two years previous, been surprised at

night and killed by the Base, who still boasted of the swords that they possessed as spoils from that occasion.

The Base knew this spot as the favourite restingplace of the Hamran huntingparties, and they might be not

far distant now, as we were in the heart of their country. This intelligence was a regular damper to the spirits

of some of the party. Mahomet quietly retired and sat down by Barrake, the exslave woman, having

expressed a resolution to keep awake every hour that he should be compelled to remain in that horrible

country. The lions roared louder and louder, but no one appeared to notice such small thunder; all thoughts

were fixed upon the Base, so thoroughly had the aggageers succeeded in frightening not only Mahomet, but

EARLY on the following morning the lions were still roaring, apparently within a hundred yards of the camp.

I accordingly took a Reilly No. 10 double rifle and accompanied by my wife, who was anxious to see these

glorious animals, and who carried my little Fletcher No. 24, I skirted the outside of the jungle on the high

bank, on the narrow arm of the river. We were not long in finding traces of the lions. A broad track in the

sandy bed of the dried stream showed where the buffalo had been dragged across to the thick and impervious

green bushes, exactly beneath us on the margin of the river. A hind quarter of the buffalo, much gnawed, lay

within seven or eight paces of us, among the bushes that had been trampled down, and the dung of numerous

lions lay upon the open ground near the place of their concealment. We had two Tokrooris with us, carrying

spare rifles, and I felt sure that the lions were within the bushes of dense nabbuk, which concealed them as

perfectly as though behind a closed curtain. We approached within three or four yards of this effective screen,

when suddenly we heard the cracking of bones, as the lions feasted in their den close to us; they would not

show themselves, nor was there any possibility of obtaining a shot; therefore, after ascending the high bank,

and waiting for some time in the hope that one might emerge to drag away the exposed portion of the buffalo,

The aggageers had already returned from a reconnaissance of the country, as they had started before daybreak

in search of elephants; they reported the fresh tracks of a herd, and they begged me to lose no time in

accompanying them, as the elephants might retreat to a great distance. There was no need for this advice; in a

few minutes my horse Tetel was saddled, and my six Tokrooris and Bacheet, with spare rifles, were in

attendance. Bacheet, who had so ingloriously failed in his first essay at Wat el Negur, had been so laughed at

by the girls of the village for his want of pluck, that he had declared himself ready to face the devil rather

than the ridicule of the fair sex; and, to do him justice, he subsequently became a firstrate lad in moments of

The aggageers were quickly mounted. It was a sight most grateful to a sportsman to witness the start of these

superb hunters, who with the sabres slung from the saddlebow, as though upon an everyday occasion, now

left the camp with these simple weapons, to meet the mightiest animal of the creation in handtohand

conflict. The horses' hoofs clattered as we descended the shingly beach, and forded the river shoulderdeep,

through the rapid current, while those on foot clung to the manes of the horses, and to the stirrupleathers, to

Shortly after our arrival upon the opposite side, we came upon numerous antelopes of the nellut (A.

Strepsiceros) and tetel (A. Bubalis). I would not fire at these tempting animals, as we were seeking nobler

Tracking was very difficult; as there was a total absence of rain, it was next to impossible to distinguish the

tracks of two days' date from those most recent upon the hard and parched soil; the only positive clue was the

fresh dung of the elephants, and this being deposited at long intervals rendered the search extremely tedious.

The greater part of the day passed in useless toil, and, after fording the river backwards and forwards several

times, we at length arrived at a large area of sand in the bend of the stream, that was evidently overflowed

when the river was full; this surface of many acres was backed by a forest of large trees. Upon arrival at this

spot, the aggageers, who appeared to know every inch of the country, declared that, unless the elephants had

gone far away, they must be close at hand, within the forest. We were speculating upon the direction of the

wind, when we were surprised by the sudden trumpet of an elephant, that proceeded from the forest already

declared to be the covert of the herd. In a few minutes later, a fine bull elephant marched majestically from

the jungle upon the large area of sand, and proudly stalked direct towards the river.

At that time we were stationed under cover of a high bank of sand that had been left by the retiring river in

sweeping round an angle; we immediately dismounted, and remained well concealed. The question of attack

was quickly settled; the elephant was quietly stalking towards the water which was about three hundred paces

distant from the jungle: this intervening space was heavy dry sand, that had been thrown up by the stream in

the sudden bend of the river, which, turning from this point at a right angle, swept beneath a perpendicular

I proposed that we should endeavour to stalk the elephant, by creeping along the edge of the river, under

cover of a sand bank about three feet high, and that, should the rifles fail, the aggageers should come on at

full gallop, and cut off his retreat from the jungle; we should then have a chance for the swords.

Accordingly, I led the way, followed by Hadji Ali, my head Tokroori, with a rifle, while I carried the "Baby."

Florian accompanied us. Having the wind fair, we advanced quickly for about half the distance, at which time

we were within a hundred and fifty yards of the elephant, who had just arrived at the water, and had

commenced drinking. We now crept cautiously towards him; the sand bank had decreased to a height of

about two feet, and afforded very little shelter. Not a tree nor bush grew upon the surface of the barren sand,

which was so deep that we sank nearly to the ankles at every footstep. Still we crept forward, as the elephant

alternately drank, and then spouted the water in a shower over his colossal form; but just as we had arrived

within about fifty yards, he happened to turn his head in our direction, and immediately perceived us. He

cocked his enormous ears, gave a short trumpet, and for an instant he wavered in his determination whether

to attack or fly; but as I rushed towards him with a shout, he turned towards the jungle, and I immediately

fired a steady shot at the shoulder with the "Baby." As usual, the fearful recoil of the rifle, with a halfpound

shell and twelve drachms of powder, nearly threw me backwards; but I saw the mark upon the elephant's

shoulder, in an excellent line, although rather high. The only effect of the shot was to send him off at great

speed towards the jungle; but at the same moment the three aggageers came galloping across the sand like

greyhounds in a course, and, judiciously keeping parallel with the jung]e, they cut off his retreat, and, turning

towards the elephant, they confronted him, sword in hand. At once the furious beast charged straight at the

enemy; but now came the very gallant, but foolish, part of the hunt. Instead of leading the elephant by the

flight of one man and horse, according to their usual method, all the aggageers at the same moment sprang

from their saddles, and upon foot in the heavy sand they attacked the elephant with their swords.

In the way of sport, I never saw anything so magnificent, or so absurdly dangerous. No gladiatorial exhibition

in the Roman arena could have surpassed this fight. The elephant was mad with rage, and nevertheless he

seemed to know that the object of the hunters was to get behind him. This he avoided with great dexterity,

turning as it were upon a pivot with extreme quickness, and charging headlong, first at one, and then at

another of his assailants, while he blew clouds of sand in the air with his trunk, and screamed with fury.

Nimble as monkeys, nevertheless the aggageers could not get behind him. In the folly of excitement they had

forsaken their horses, which had escaped from the spot. The depth of the loose sand was in favour of the

elephant, and was so much against the men that they avoided his charges with extreme difficulty. It was only

by the determined pluck of all three that they alternately saved each other, as two invariably dashed in at the

flanks when the elephant charged the third, upon which the wary animal immediately relinquished the chase,

and turned round upon his pursuers. During this time, I had been labouring through the heavy sand, and

shortly after I arrived at the fight, the elephant charged directly through the aggageers, receiving a shoulder

shot from one of my Reilly No. 10 rifles, and at the same time a slash from the sword of Abou Do, who, with

great dexterity and speed, had closed in behind him, just in time to reach the leg. Unfortunately, he could not

deliver the cut in the right place, as the elephant, with increased speed, completely distanced the aggageers;

he charged across the deep sand, and reached the jungle. We were shortly upon his tracks, and after running

about a quarter of a mile, he fell dead in a dry watercourse. His tusks were, like the generality of Abyssinian

Some of our men, who had followed the runaway horses, shortly returned, and reported that, during our fight

with the bull, they had heard other elephants trumpeting in the dense nabbuk jungle near the river. A portion

of thick forest of about two hundred acres, upon this side of the river, was a tempting covert for elephants,

and the aggageers, who were perfectly familiar with the habits of the animals, positively declared that the

herd must be within this jungle. Accordingly, we proposed to skirt the margin of the river, which, as it made a

bend at right angles, commanded two sides of a square. Upon reaching the jungle by the river side, we again

heard the trumpet of an elephant and about a quarter of a mile distant we observed a herd of twelve of these

animals shoulderdeep in the river, which they were in the act of crossing to the opposite side, to secure

themselves in an almost impenetrable jungle of thorny nabbuk. The aggageers advised that we should return

to the ford that we had already crossed, and, by repassing the river, we should most probably meet the

elephants, as they would not leave the thick jungle until the night. Having implicit confidence in their

knowledge of the country, I followed their directions, and we shortly recrossed the ford, and arrived upon a

Jali now took the management of affairs. We all dismounted, and sent the horses to a considerable distance,

lest they should by some noise disturb the elephants. We shortly heard a cracking in the jungle on our right,

and Jali assured us, that, as he had expected, the elephants were slowly advancing along the jungle on the

bank of the river, and they would pass exactly before us. We waited patiently in the bed of the river, and the

cracking in the jungle sounded closer as the herd evidently approached. The strip of thick thorny covert that

fringed the margin was in no place wider than half a milebeyond that, the country was open and parklike,

but at this season it was covered with parched grass from eight to ten feet high; the elephants would,

In about a quarter of an hour, we heard by the noise in the jungle, about a hundred yards from the river, that

the elephants were directly opposite to us. I accordingly instructed Jali to creep quietly by himself into the

In three or four minutes he returned; he declared it impossible to use the sword, as the jungle was so dense

that it would check the blow, but that I could use the rifle, as the elephants were close to ushe had seen

three standing together, between us and the main body of the herd. I told Jali to lead me direct to the spot,

and, followed by Fiorian and the aggageers, with my gunbearers, I kept within a foot of my dependable little

guide, who crept gently into the jungle; this was intensely thick, and quite impenetrable, except in such places

where elephants and other heavy animals had trodden numerous alleys. Along one of these narrow passages

we stealthily advanced, until Jali stepped quietly on one side, and pointed with his finger; I immediately

observed two elephants looming through the thick bushes about eight paces from me. One offered a temple

shot, which I quickly took with a Reilly No. 10, and floored it on the spot. The smoke hung so thickly, that I

could not see sufficiently distinctly to fire my second barrel before the remaining elephant had turned; but

Florian, with a threeounce steeltipped bullet, by a curious shot at the hind quarters, injured the hip joint to

such an extent that we could more than equal the elephant in speed. In a few moments we found ourselves in

a small open glade in the middle of the jungle, close to the stern of the elephant we were following. I had

taken a fresh rifle, with both barrels loaded, and hardly had I made the exchange, when the elephant turned

suddenly, and charged. Determined to try fairly the forehead shot, I kept my ground, and fired a Reilly No.

10, quicksilver and lead bullet, exactly in the centre, when certainly within four yards. The only effect was to

make her stagger backwards, when, in another moment, with her immense ears thrown forward, she again

rushed on. This was touchandgo; but I fired my remaining barrel a little lower than the first shot. Checked

in her rush, she backed towards the dense jungle, throwing her trunk about and trumpeting with rage.

Snatching the Ceylon No. 10 from one of my trusty Tokrooris (Hassan), I ran straight at her, took a most

deliberate aim at the forehead, and once more fired. The only effect was a decisive charge; but before I fired

my last barrel, Jali rushed in, and, with one blow of his sharp sword, severed the back sinew. She was utterly

helpless in the same instant. Bravo, Jali! I had fired three beautifully correct shots with No. 10 bullets, and

seven drachms of powder in each charge; these were so nearly together that they occupied a space in her

forehead of about three inches, and all had failed to kill! There could no longer be any doubt that the forehead

shot at an African elephant could not be relied upon, although so fatal to the Indian species: this increased the

danger tenfold, as in Ceylon I had generally made certain of an elephant by steadily waiting until it was close

I now reloaded my rifles, and the aggageers quitted the jungle to remount their horses, as they expected the

herd had broken cover on the other side of the jungle; in which case they intended to give chase, and if

possible, to turn them back into the covert, and drive them towards the guns. We accordingly took our stand

in the small open glade, and I lent Florian one of my double rifles, as he was only provided with one

singlebarrelled elephant gun. I did not wish to destroy the prestige of the rifles, by hinting to the aggageers

that it would be rather awkward for us to receive the charge of the infuriated herd, as the foreheads were

invulnerable; but inwardly I rather hoped that they would not come so direct upon our position as the

About a quarter of an hour passed in suspense, when we suddenly heard a chorus of wild cries of excitement

on the other side of the jungle, raised iy the aggageers, who had headed the herd, and were driving them back

towards us. In a few minutes a tremendous crashing in the jungle, accompanied by the occasional shrill

scream of a savage elephant, and the continued shouts of the mounted aggageers, assured us that they were

bearing down exactly upon our direction; they were apparently followed even through the dense jungle by the

wild and reckless Arabs. I called my men close together, and told them to stand fast, and hand me the guns

quickly; and we eagerly awaited the onset that rushed towards us like a storm. On they came, tearing

everything before them. For a moment the jungle quivered and crashed; a second later, and, headed by an

immense elephant, the herd thundered down upon us. The great leader came direct at me, and was received

with right and left in the forehead from a Reilly No. 10 as fast as I could pull the triggers. The shock made it

reel backwards for an instant, and fortunately turned it and the herd likewise. My second rifle was beautifully

handed, and I made a quick right and left at the temples of two fine elephants, dropping them both

stonedead. At this moment the "Baby" was pushed into my hand by Hadji Ali just in time to take the

shoulder of the last of the herd, who had already charged headlong after his comrades, and was disappearing

in the jungle. Bang! went the "Baby;" round I spun like a weathercock, with the blood pouring from my nose,

as the recoil had driven the sharp top of the hammer deep into the bridge. My "Baby" not only screamed, but

kicked viciously. However, I knew that the elephant must be bagged, as the halfpound shell had been aimed

In a few minutes the aggageers arrived; they were bleeding from countless scratches, as, although naked, with

the exception of short drawers, they had forced their way on horseback through the thorny path cleft by the

herd in rushing through the jungle. Abou Do had blood upon his sword. They had found the elephants

commencing a retreat to the interior of the country, and they had arrived just in time to turn them. Following

them at full speed, Abou Do had succeeded in overtaking and slashing the sinew of an elephant just as it was

entering the jungle. Thus the aggageers had secured one, in addition to Fiorian's elephant that had been

slashed by Jali. We now hunted for the "Baby's" elephant, which was almost immediately discovered lying

dead within a hundred and fifty yards of the place where it had received the shot. The shell had entered close

to the shoulder, and it was extraordinary that an animal should have been able to travel so great a distance

We had done pretty well. I had been fortunate in bagging four from this herd, in addition to the single bull in

the morning; total, five. Florian had killed one, and the aggageers one; total, seven elephants. One had

escaped that I had wounded in the shoulder, and two that had been wounded by Florian.

The aggageers were delighted, and they determined to search for the wounded elephants on the following

day, as the evening was advancing, and we were about five miles from camp. Having my measuringtape in

a gamebag that was always carried by Abdoolahi, I measured accurately one of the elephants that had fallen

with the legs stretched out, so that the height to the shoulder could be exactly taken:From foot to shoulder

in a direct line, nine feet one inch; circumference of foot, four feet eight inches. The elephant lying by her

side was still larger, but the legs being doubled up, I could not measure her: these were females.

We now left the jungle, and found our horses waiting for us in the bed of the river by the water side, and we

rode towards our camp well satisfied with the day's work. Upon entering an open plain of low withered grass

we perceived a boar, who upon our approach showed no signs of fear, but insolently erected his tail and

scrutinised our party. Florian dismounted and fired a shot, which passed through his flank, and sent the boar

flying off at full speed. Abou Do and I gave chase on horseback, and after a run of a few hundred yards we

In a short time the whole party arrived, and, as Florian had wounded the animal, his servant Richarn

considered that he should give the coup de grace; but upon his advancing with his drawn knife, the boar

charged desperately, and inflicted a serious wound across the palm of his hand, which was completely

divided to the bone by a gash with the sharp tusk. Abou Do immediately rode to the rescue, and with a blow

of his sword divided the spine behind the shoulder, and nearly cut the boar in half. By this accident Richarn

Upon our arrival at the camp, there were great rejoicings among our people at the result of the day's sport.

Old Moosa, the half fortuneteller, half priest, of the Tokrooris, had in our absence employed himself in

foretelling the number of elephants we should kill. His method of conjuring was rather perplexing, and,

although a mystery beyond my understanding, it might be simple to an English spiritualist or spiritrapper;

he had nevertheless satisfied both himself and others, therefore the party had been anxiously waiting our

return to hear the result. Of course, old Moosa was wrong, and of course he had a loophole for escape, and

thereby preserved his reputation. The aggageers expected to find our wounded elephants on the following

morning, if dead, by the flights of vultures. That night the lions again serenaded us with constant roaring, as

At daybreak the next morning, the aggageers in high glee mounted their horses, and with a long retinue of

camels, and men provided with axes and knives, together with large gum sacks to contain the flesh, they

quitted the camp to cut up the numerous elephants. As I had no taste for this disgusting work, I took two of

my Tokrooris, Hadji Ali and Hassan, and, accompanied by old Abou Do, the father of the sheik, with his

The harpoon for hippopotamus and crocodile hunting is a piece of soft steel about eleven inches long, with a

narrow blade or point of about threequarters of an inch in width, and a single but powerful barb. To this

short, and apparently insignificant weapon, a strong rope is secured, about twenty feet in length, at the

extremity of which is a buoy or float as large as a child's head formed of an extremely light wood called

ambatch (Anemone mirabilis), that is about half the specific gravity of cork. The extreme end of the short

harpoon is fixed in the point of a bamboo about ten feet long, around which the rope is twisted, while the

The old Abou Do being resolved upon work, had divested himself of his tope or toga before starting,

according to the general custom of the aggageers, who usually wear a simple piece of leather wound round

the loins when hunting, but, I believe in respect for our party, they had provided themselves with a garment

resembling bathing drawers, such as are worn in France, Germany, and other civilized countries; but the old

Abou Do, like the English, had resisted any such innovation, and he accordingly appeared with nothing on

but his harpoon; and a more superb old Neptune I never beheld. He carried this weapon in his hand, as the

trident with which the old seagod ruled the monsters of the deep; and as the tall Arab patriarch of threescore

years and ten, with his long grey locks flowing over his brawny shoulders, stepped as lightly as a goat from

The country was very beautiful; we were within twenty miles of lofty mountains, while at a distance of about

thirtyfive or forty miles were the high peaks of the Abyssinian Alps. The entire land was richly wooded,

although open, and adapted for hunting upon horseback. Through this wild and lovely country the river

Settite flowed in an everchanging course. At times the bed was several hundred yards wide, with the stream,

contracted at this season, flowing gently over rounded pebbles; the water was as clear as glass; in other places

huge masses of rock impeded the flow of water, and caused dangerous rapids; then, as the river passed

through a range of hills, perpendicular cliffs of sandstone and of basalt walled it within a narrow channel,

through which it rushed with great impetuosity; issuing from these straits it calmed its fury in a deep and

broad pool, from which it again commenced a gentle course over sands and pebbles. At that season the river

would have been perfection for salmon, being a series of rapids, shallows, deep and rocky gorges, and quiet

silent pools of unknown depth; in the latter places of security the hippopotami retreated after their nocturnal

rambles upon terra firma. The banks of this beautiful river were generally thickly clothed with bright green

nabbuk trees, that formed a shelter for INNUMERABLE guineafowl, and the black francolin partridge.

Herds of antelopes of many varieties were forced to the river to drink, as the only water within many miles;

but these never remained long among the thick nabbuk, as the lions and leopards inhabited that covert

expressly to spring upon the unwary animal whose thirst prompted a too heedless advance. Wherever there

was a sand bank in the river, a crocodile basked in the morning sunshine: some of these were of enormous

Hippopotami had trodden a path along the margin of the river, as these animals came out to feed shortly after

dark, and travelled from pool to pool. Wherever a plot of tangled and succulent herbage grew among the

shady nabbuks, there were the marks of the harrowlike teeth, that had torn and rooted up the rank grass like

After walking about two miles, we noticed a herd of hippopotami in a pool below a rapid: this was

surrounded by rocks, except upon one side, where the rush of water had thrown up a bank of pebbles and

sand. Our old Neptune did not condescend to bestow the slightest attention when I pointed out these animals;

they were too wide awake; but he immediately quitted the river's bed, and we followed him quietly behind

the fringe of bushes upon the border, from which we carefully examined the water. About half a mile below

this spot, as we clambered over the intervening rocks through a gorge which formed a powerful rapid, I

observed, in a small pool just below the rapid, an immense head of a hippopotamus close to a perpendicular

rock that formed a wall to the river, about six feet above the surface. I pointed out the hippo to old Abou Do,

who had not seen it. At once the gravity of the old Arab disappeared, and the energy of the hunter was

exhibited as he motioned us to remain, while he ran nimbly behind the thick screen of bushes for about a

hundred and fifty yards below the spot where the hippo was unconsciously basking, with his ugly head above

the surface. Plunging into the rapid torrent, the veteran hunter was carried some distance down the stream,

but breasting the powerful current, he landed upon the rocks on the opposite side, and retiring to some

distance from the river, he quickly advanced towards the spot beneath which the hippopotamus was lying. I

had a fine view of the scene, as I was lying concealed exactly opposite the hippo, who had disappeared

beneath the water. Abou Do now stealthily approached the ledge of rock beneath which he had expected to

see the head of the animal; his long sinewy arm was raised, with the harpoon ready to strike, as he carefully

advanced. At length he reached the edge of the perpendicular rock; the hippo had vanished, but, far from

exhibiting surprise, the old Arab remained standing on the sharp ledge, unchanged in attitude. No figure of

bronze could have been more rigid than that of the old riverking, as he stood erect upon the rock with the

left foot advanced, and the harpoon poised in his ready right hand above his head, while in the left he held the

loose coils of rope attached to the ambatch buoy. For about three minutes he stood like a statue, gazing

intently into the clear and deep water beneath his feet. I watched eagerly for the reappearance of the hippo;

the surface of the water was still barren, when suddenly the right arm of the statue descended like lightning,

and the harpoon shot perpendicularly into the pool with the speed of an arrow. What riverfiend answered to

the summons? In an instant an enormous pair of open jaws appeared, followed by the ungainly head and form

of the furious hippopotamus, who, springing half out of the water, lashed the river into foam, and, disdaining

the concealment of the deep pool, he charged straight up the violent rapids. With extraordinary power he

breasted the descending stream; gaining a footing in the rapids, about five feet deep, he ploughed his way

against the broken waves, sending them in showers of spray upon all sides, and upon gaining broader

shallows he tore along through the water, with the buoyant float hopping behind him along the surface, until

he landed from the river, started at full gallop along the dry shingly bed, and at length disappeared in the

I never could have imagined that so unwieldy an animal could have exhibited such speed; no man would have

had a chance of escape, and it was fortunate for our old Neptune that he was secure upon the high ledge of

rock, for if he had been in the path of the infuriated beast. there would have been an end of Abou Do. The old

man plunged into the deep pool just quitted by the hippo, and landed upon our side; while in the enthusiasm

of the moment I waved my cap above my head, and gave him a British cheer as he reached the shore. His

usually stern features relaxed into a grim smile of delight: this was one of those moments when the gratified

pride of the hunter rewards him for any risks. I congratulated him upon his dexterity: but much remained to

be done. I proposed to cross the river, and to follow upon the tracks of the hippopotamus, as I imagined that

the buoy and rope would catch in the thick jungle, and that we should find him entangled in the bush; but the

old hunter gently laid his hand upon my arm, and pointed up the bed of the river, explaining that the hippo

In a few minutes later, at a distance of nearly half a mile, we observed the hippo emerge from the jungle, and

descend at full trot to the bed of the river, making direct for the first rocky pool in which we had noticed the

herd of hippopotami. Accompanied by the old howarti (hippo hunter), we walked quickly towards the spot:

he explained to me that I must shoot the harpooned hippo, as we should not be able to secure him in the usual

method by ropes, as nearly all our men were absent from camp, disposing of the dead elephants.

Upon reaching the pool, which was about a hundred and thirty yards in diameter, we were immediately

greeted by the hippo, who snorted and roared as we approached, but quickly dived, and the buoyant float ran

along the surface, directing his course in the same manner as the cork of a trimmer with a pike upon the hook.

Several times he appeared, but, as he invariably faced us, I could not obtain a favourable shot; I therefore sent

the old hunter round the pool, and he, swimming the river, advanced to the opposite side, and attracted the

attention of the hippo who immediately turned towards him. This afforded me a good chance, and I fired a

steady shot behind the ear, at about seventy yards, with a singlebarrelled rifle. As usual with hippopotami,

whether dead or alive, he disappeared beneath the water at the shot. The crack of the ball and the absence of

any splash from the bullet told me that he was hit; the ambatch float remained perfectly stationary upon the

surface. I watched it for some minutesit never moved; several heads of hippopotami appeared and

vanished in different directions, but the float was still; it marked the spot where the grand old bull lay dead

I shot another hippo, that I thought must be likewise dead; and, taking the time by my watch, I retired to the

shade of a tree with Hassan, while Hadji Ali and the old hunter returned to camp for assistance in men and

In a little more than an hour and a half, two objects like the backs of turtles appeared above the surface: these

were the flanks of the two hippos. A short time afterwards the men arrived, and, regardless of crocodiles, they

swam towards the bodies. One was towed directly to the shore by the rope attached to the harpoon, the other

I measured the bull that was harpooned; it was fourteen feet two inches from the upper lip to the extremity of

the tail; the head was three feet one inch from the front of the ear to the edge of the lip in a straight line. The

harpoon was sticking in the nape of the neck, having penetrated about two and a half inches beneath the hide;

this is about an inch and threequarters thick upon the back of the neck of a bull hippopotamus. It was a

magnificent specimen, with the largest tusks I have ever seen; the skull is now in my hall in England.

Although the hippopotamus is generally harmless, the solitary old bulls are sometimes extremely vicious,

especially when in the water. I have frequently known them charge a boat, and I have myself narrowly

escaped being upset in a canoe by the attack of one of these creatures, without the slightest provocation. The

females are extremely shy and harmless, and they are most affectionate mothers: the only instances that I

have known of the female attacking a man, have been those in which her calf had been stolen. To the Arabs

they are extremely valuable, yielding, in addition to a large quantity of excellent flesh, about two hundred

pounds of fat, and a hide that will produce about two hundred coorbatches, or camel whips. I have never shot

these useful creatures to waste; every morsel of the flesh has been stored either by the natives or for our own

use; and whenever we have had a good supply of antelope or giraffe meat, I have avoided firing a shot at the

hippo. Elephant flesh is exceedingly strong and disagreeable, partaking highly of the peculiar smell of the

animal. We had now a good supply of meat from the two hippopotami, which delighted our people. The old

Abou Do claimed the bull that he had harpooned as his own private property, and he took the greatest pains in

dividing the hide longitudinally, in strips of the width of three fingers, which he cut with great dexterity.

Although the hippopotamus is amphibious, he requires a large and constant supply of air; the lungs are of

enormous size, and he invariably inflates them before diving. From five to eight minutes is the time that he

usually remains under water; he then comes to the surface, and expends the air within his lungs by blowing;

he again refills the lungs almost instantaneously, and if frightened, he sinks immediately. In places where

they have become extremely shy from being hunted, or fired at, they seldom expose the head above the

surface, but merely protrude the nose to breathe through the nostrils; it is then impossible to shoot them.

Their food consists of aquatic plants, and grasses of many descriptions. Not only do they visit the margin of

the river, but they wander at night to great distances from the water if attracted by good pasturage, and,

although clumsy and ungainly in appearance, they clamber up steep banks and precipitous ravines with

astonishing power and ease. In places where they are perfectly undisturbed, they not only enjoy themselves in

the sunshine by basking half asleep upon the surface of the water, but they lie upon the shore beneath the

shady trees, upon the river's bank; I have seen them, when disturbed by our sudden arrival during the march,

take a leap from a bank about twenty feet perpendicular depth into the water below, with a splash that has

created waves in the quiet pool, as though a paddlesteamer had passed by. The Arabs attach no value to the

tusks; these are far more valuable than elephant ivory, and are used by dentists in Europe for the manufacture

of false teeth, for which they are admirably adapted, as they do not change colour. Not wishing to destroy the

remaining hippopotami that were still within the pool, I left my men and old Abou Do busily engaged in

I HAD been for some hours in the camp, but none of the aggageers had returned, neither had we received any

tidings of our people and camels that had left us at daybreak to search for the dead elephants. Fearing that

some mishap might have occurred in a collision with the Base, I anxiously looked out for some sign of the

party. At about 4 P.M. I observed far up the bed of the river several men, some mounted, and others upon

foot, while one led a camel with a curious looking load. Upon a nearer approach I could distinguish some

large object upon the camel's back, that was steadied by two men, one of whom walked on either side. I had a

foreboding that something was wrong, and in a few minutes I clearly perceived a man lying upon a

makeshift litter, carried by the camel, while the Sheik Abou Do and Suleiman accompanied the party upon

They soon arrived beneath the high bank of the river upon which I stood. Poor little Jali, my plucky and

active ally, lay, as I thought, dead upon the litter. We laid him gently upon my angarep, which I had raised by

four men, so that we could lower him gradually from the kneeling camel, and we carried him to the camp,

about thirty yards distant. He was faint, and I poured some essence of peppermint (the only spirit I possessed)

down his throat, which quickly revived him. His thigh was broken about eight inches above the knee, but

Abou Do now explained the cause of the accident. While the party of camelmen and others were engaged in

cutting up the dead elephants, the three aggageers had found the track of a bull that had escaped wounded. In

that country, where there was no drop of water upon the east bank of the Settite for a distance of sixty or

seventy miles to the river Gash, an elephant if wounded was afraid to trust itself to the interior; one of our

escaped elephants had therefore returned to the thick jungle, and was tracked by the aggageers to a position

within two or three hundred yards of the dead elephants. As there were no guns, two of the aggageers, utterly

reckless of consequences, resolved to ride through the narrow passages formed by the large game, and to take

their chance with the elephant, sword in hand. Jali, as usual, was the first to lead, and upon his little grey

mare he advanced with the greatest difficulty through the entangled thorns, broken by the passage of heavy

game; to the right and left of the passage it was impossible to move. Abou Do had wisely dismounted, but

Suleiman followed Jali. Upon arriving within a few yards of the elephant, which was invisible in the thick

thorns, Abou Do crept forward on foot, and discovered it standing with ears cocked, evidently waiting for the

attack. As Jali followed on his light grey mare, the elephant immediately perceived the white colour, and at

once charged forward. Escape was next to impossible: Jali turned his mare sharp round, and she bounded off,

but caught in the thorns, the mare fell, throwing her rider in the path of the elephant that was within a few feet

behind, in full chase. The mare recovered herself in an instant, and rushed away; the elephant, occupied by

the white colour of the animal, neglected the man, upon whom he trod in the pursuit, thus breaking his thigh.

Abou Do, who had been between the elephant and Jali, had wisely jumped into the thick thorns, and, as the

elephant passed him, he again sprang out behind, and followed with his drawn sword, but too late to save Jali,

as it was the affair of an instant. Jumping over Jali's body, he was just in time to deliver a tremendous cut at

the hind leg of the elephant, that must otherwise have killed both horses and probably Suleiman also, as the

three were caught in a cul de sac in a passage that had no outlet, and were at the elephant's mercy.

Abou Do seldom failed; it was a difficult feat to strike correctly in the narrow jungle passage with the

elephant in full speed, but the blow was fairly given, and the back sinew was divided. Not content with the

success of the cut, he immediately repeated the stroke upon the other leg, as he feared that the elephant,

although disabled from rapid motion, might turn and trample Jali. The extraordinary dexterity and courage

required to effect this can hardly be appreciated by those who have never hunted a wild elephant; but the

extreme agility, pluck, and audacity of these Hamran swordhunters surpass all feats that I have ever

I set Jali's broken thigh, and employed myself in making splints; fortunately, my toolchest was at hand, and

I selected some pieces of dry wood that had been left on the bank by the retiring river. I made two splints, one

with a crutch to fit beneath the arm; this I carried to about three inches beyond the foot, and cut a Vshaped

notch to secure the bandage; the other was a common short splint about eighteen inches long. My wife

quickly made about sixty yards of bandages, while Barrak, the maid, prepared thick gum water, from gum

arabic, that the mimosas produced in unlimited quantity. Fixing the long splint under the arm, and keeping it

upon the outside of the thigh, with the leg perfectly straight, I lashed the foot and ankle securely to the

Vshaped notch: I then strapped the upper portion of the splint with bandages passed around the patient's

chest, until he was swathed from beneath the arms to the hips, thus securing the splint to his body. The thigh,

and entire leg from the fork to the ankle, I carefully secured to the long splint with three rows of bandages,

the first plain, and the last two layers were soaked in thick gumwater. When these became dry and hard,

they formed a case like an armour of pasteboard: previous to bandaging the limb in splints, I had bathed it

On the following morning I expected to find my patient in great pain; but, on the contrary, he complained

very little. His pulse was good, and there was very little swelling or heat. I gave him some cooling medicine;

and the only anxiety that he expressed was the wish to get well immediately, so as to continue the expedition.

The Arabs thought that I could mend the leg of a man as though it were the broken stock of a gun, that would

be serviceable immediately when repaired. As these people never use spirituous liquors, they are very little

subject to inflammation, and they recover quickly from wounds that would be serious to Europeans. I

attended to Jali for four days. He was a very grateful, but unruly patient, as he had never been accustomed to

remain quiet. At the end of that time we arranged an angarep comfortably upon a camel, upon which he was

transported to Geera, in company with a long string of camels, heavily laden with dried meat and squares of

hide for shields, with large bundles of hippopotamus skin for whip making, together with the various spoils

of the chase. Last, but not least, were numerous leathern pots of fat that had been boiled down from elephants

The camels were to return as soon as possible with supplies of corn for onr people and horses. Another

elephanthunter was to be sent to us in the place of Jali; but I felt that we had lost our best man.*

Although my people had been in the highest spirits up to this time, a gloom had been thrown over the party

by two causesJali's accident, and the fresh footmarks of the Base that had been discovered upon the sand

by the margin of the river. The aggageers feared nothing, and if the Base had been legions of demons they

would have faced them, sword in hand, with the greatest pleasure. But my Tokrooris, who were brave in

some respects, had been so cowed by the horrible stories recounted of these common enemies at the nightly

campfires by the Hamran Arabs, that they were seized with a panic, and resolved to desert en masse, and

return to Katariff, where I had originally engaged them, and at which place they had left their families.

This desertion having been planned, they came to me in a body, just as the camels and Jali were about to

depart, and commenced a series of absurd excuses for their intended desertion. The old greyheaded Moosa,

by whose fortunetelling and sorcery the party were invariably guided, had foretold evil. This had confirmed

them in their determination to return home. They were not a bad set of fellows, but, like most of their class,

they required peculiar management. If natives are driven, they invariably hate their master, and turn sulky; if

you give in to them, they lose respect, and will never obey. They are exceedingly subject to sudden impulses,

under the influence of which they are utterly unreasonable. As the expedition depends for success entirely

upon the union of the party, it is highly necessary to obtain so complete a control over every individual, that

the leader shall be regarded with positive reverence, and his authority in all matters accepted as supreme. To

gain such a complete ascendancy is a work of time, and is no easy matter, as an extreme amount of tact and

judgment is necessary, combined with great kindness and common sense, with, at times, great severity. The

In this instance, the desertion of my Tokrooris would have been a great blow to my expedition, as it was

necessary to have a division of parties. I had now Tokrooris, Jaleens, and Hamran Arabs. Thus they would

never unite together, and I was certain to have some upon my side in a difficulty. Should I lose the Tokrooris,

The whole of my Tokrooris formed in line before me and my wife, just as the camels were about to leave;

each man had his little bundle prepared for starting on a journey. Old Moosa was the spokesman,he said

that they were all very sorry: that they regretted exceedingly the necessity of leaving us, but some of them

were sick, and they would only be a burden to the expedition; that one of them was bound upon a pilgrimage

to Mecca, and that God would punish him should he neglect this great duty; others had not left any money

with their families in Katariff, that would starve in their absence. (I had given them an advance of wages,

when they engaged at Katariff, to provide against this difficulty.) I replied, "My good fellows, I am very sorry

to hear all this, especially as it comes upon me so suddenly; those who are sick, stand upon one side" (several

invalids, who looked remarkably healthy, stepped to the left). "Who wishes to go to Mecca?" Abderachman

stepped forward (a huge specimen of a Tokroori, who went by the nickname of "El Jamoos," or the buffalo.)

"Who wishes to remit money to his family, as I will send it and deduct it from his wages?" No one came

forward. During the pause, I called for pen and paper, which Mahomet brought. I immediately commenced

writing, and placed the note within an envelope, which I addressed, and gave to one of the cameldrivers. I

then called for my medicine chest, and having weighed several threegrain doses of tartar emetic, I called the

invalids, and insisted upon their taking the medicine before they started, or they might become seriously ill

upon the road, which for three days' march was uninhabited. Mixed with a little water, the doses were

swallowed, and I knew that the invalids were safe for that day, and that the others would not start without

I now again addressed my wouldbe deserters: "Now, my good fellows, there shall be no misunderstanding

between us, and I will explain to you how the case stands. You engaged yourselves to me for the whole

journey, and you received an advance of wages to provide for your families during your absence. You have

lately filled yourselves with meat, and you have become lazy; you have been frightened by the footprints of

the Base; thus you wish to leave the country. To save yourselves from imaginary danger, you would forsake

my wife and myself and leave us to a fate which you yourselves would avoid. This is your gratitude for

kindness; this is the return for my confidence, when without hesitation I advanced you money. Go! Return to

Katariff to your families! I know that all the excuses you have made are false. Those who declare themselves

to be sick, Inshallah (please God) shall be sick. You will all be welcomed upon your arrival at Katariff. In the

letter I have written to the Governor, inclosing your names, I have requested him to give each man upon his

appearance FIVE HUNDRED LASHES WITH THE COORBATCH, FOR DESERTION; and to imprison

Checkmate! My poor Tokrooris were in a corner, and in their great dilemma they could not answer a word.

Taking advantage of this moment of confusion, I called forward "the buffalo" Abderachman, as I had heard

that he really had contemplated a pilgrimage to Mecca. "Abderachman," I continued, "you are the only man

who has spoken the truth. Go to Mecca! and may God protect you on the journey; I should not wish to

Never were people more dumbfounded with surprise; they retreated, and formed a knot in consultation, and

in about ten minutes they returned to me, old Moosa and Hadji Ali both leading the pilgrim Abderachman by

the hands. They had given in; and Abderachman, the buffalo of the party, thanked me for my permission, and

with tears in his eyes, as the camels were about to start, he at once said goodbye. "Embrace him!" cried old

Moosa and Hadji Ali; and in an instant, as I had formerly succumbed to the maid Barrake, I was actually

kissed by the thick lips of Abderachman the unwashed! Poor fellow! this was sincere gratitude without the

slightest humbug; therefore, although he was an odoriferous savage, I could not help shaking him by the hand

and wishing him a prosperous journey, assuring him that I would watch over his comrades like a father, while

in my service. In a few instants these curious people were led by a sudden and new impulse; my farewell had

perfectly delighted old Moosa and Hadji Ali, whose hearts were won. "Say goodbye to the Sit!" (the lady)

they shouted to Abderachman; but I assured them that it was not necessary to go through the whole operation

to which I had been subjected, and that she would be contented if he only kissed her hand. This he did with

the natural grace of a savage, and was led away crying by his companions, who embraced him with tears, and

Now to hardhearted and civilized people, who often school themselves to feel nothing, or as little as they

can, for anybody, it may appear absurd to say that the scene was affecting, but somehow or other it was; and

in the course of halfanhour, those who would have deserted had become staunch friends, and we were all,

black and white, Mahometans and Christians, wishing the pilgrim God speed upon his perilous journey to

The camels started, and, if the scene was affecting, the invalids began to be more affected by the tartar

emetic; this was the third act of the comedy. The plot had been thoroughly ventilated: the last act exhibited

the perfect fidelity of my Tokrooris, in whom I subsequently reposed much confidence.

In the afternoon of that day, the brothers Sheriff arrived; these were the most renowned of all the

swordhunters of the Hamrans, of whom I have already spoken; they were well mounted, and, having met

our caravan of camels on the route, heavily laden with dried flesh, and thus seen proofs of our success, they

now offered to join our party. I am sorry to be obliged to confess, that my ally, Abou Do, although a perfect

Nimrod in sport, an Apollo in personal appearance, and a gentleman in manner, was a mean, covetous, and

grasping fellow, and withal absurdly jealous. Taher Sheriff was a more celebrated hunter, having had the

experience of at least twenty years in excess of Abou Do, and although the latter was as brave and dexterous

as Taher and his brothers, he wanted the cool judgment that is essential to a firstrate sportsman. He was

himself aware of his inferiority to Taher Sheriff, though too proud to admit it; but, to avoid competition he

declined to allow the Sheriffs to join our party, declaring that if I insisted upon the fresh alliance, he and his

comrade Suleiman would return home. Notwithstanding his objections, I arranged for the present that, as Jali

was hors de combat, Taher Sheriff's party should join us until the arrival of a fresh hunter in his place,

otherwise our party would be incomplete. To prevent complications, the greedy Abou Do selected his share

of the ivory, carefully choosing the best and most perfect tusks, and he presented Taher's party with a small

quantity of meat that would render them independent of his hospitality. I at once ordered my people to give

them a large supply of both meat and corn from my own store, and they encamped in a quarter of our circle.

The following day was the new year, January 1st, 1862; and, with the four brothers Sheriff and our party, we

formed a powerful body of hunters: six aggageers and myself, all well mounted. With four gunbearers, and

two camels, both of which carried water, we started in search of elephants. Florian was unwell, and remained

In this dry climate it was only necessary to ride along the margin of the river to look for fresh tracks, as the

animals were compelled to visit the Settite to drink, and of course there was no difficulty in discovering their

traces. It appeared, however, that the elephants had been frightened away from the neighbourhood by the

recent attack, as we rode for about ten miles without seeing any fresh marks. We therefore struck inland, on

the east bank of the river, intending to return home by a circuit. The country was exactly like an English park,

with no larger timber than thorn trees. Every now and then there was an exception in a gigantic homera

(Adansonia digitata), or baobab; these, towering over the heads of the low mimosas, could be seen from a

great distance. Having steered direct for one, we halted, and dismounted to rest the horses beneath the shade.

This tree was about forty feet in circumference, and the spongy trunk was formed into a ladder by pegs of

hard wood driven into its side by the Base hunters, who had thus ascended the slippery stem in search of

honey. Bees are very fond of these trees, as they are generally more or less hollow, and well adapted for

hives. The Adansonia digitata, although a tree, always reminds me of a gigantic fungus; the stem is

disproportioned in its immense thickness to its height, and its branches are few in number, and as massive in

character as the stem. The wood is not much firmer in substance than cork, and is as succulent as a carrot. In

Kordofan, where water is exceedingly scarce, the Adansonia is frequently used as a reservoir; one of these

huge hollow trees is cleaned out and filled with water during the short rainy season. The fruit was ripe at the

time we halted, and after many attempts, by throwing sticks, we succeeded in procuring a considerable

number. The subacid flavour of the seeds, enveloped in a dry yellow powder within the large shell, was

The immediate neighbourhood was a perfect exhibition of gumarabicbearing mimosas. At this season the

gum was in perfection, and the finest quality was now before us in beautiful ambercoloured masses upon the

stems and branches, varying from the size of a nutmeg to that of an orange. So great was the quantity, and so

excellent were the specimens, that, leaving our horses tied to trees, both the Arabs and myself gathered a

large collection. This gum, although as hard as ice on the exterior, was limpid in the centre, resembling

melted amber, and as clear as though refined by some artificial process. The trees were perfectly denuded of

leaves from the extreme drought, and the beautiful balls of frosted yellow gum recalled the idea of the

precious jewels upon the trees in the garden of the wonderful lamp of the "Arabian nights." This gum was

exceedingly sweet and pleasant to the taste; but, although of the most valuable quality, there was no hand to

gather it in this forsaken, although beautiful country; it either dissolved during the rainy season, or was

consumed by the baboons and antelopes. The aggageers took off from their saddles the skins of tanned

antelope leather that formed the only covering to the wooden seats, and with these they made bundles of gum.

We were thus leisurely returning home through alternate plains and low open forest of mimosa, when Taher

Sheriff, who was leading the party, suddenly reined up his horse, and pointed to a thick bush, beneath which

was a large grey, but shapeless, mass. He whispered, as I drew near, "Oom gurrin" (mother of the horn), their

name for the rhinoceros. I immediately dismounted, and, with the short No. 10 Tatham rifle I advanced as

near as I could, followed by Suleiman, as I had sent all my gunbearers direct home by the river when we

had commenced our circuit. As I drew near, I discovered two rhinoceros asleep beneath a thick mass of

bushes; they were lying like pigs, close together, so that at a distance I had been unable to distinguish any

exact form. It was an awkward place; if I were to take the wind fairly, I should have to fire through the thick

bush, which would be useless; therefore I was compelled to advance with the wind direct from me to them.

The aggageers remained about a hundred yards distant, while I told Suleiman to return, and hold my horse in

readiness with his own. I then walked quietly to within about thirty yards of the rhinoceros, but so curiously

were they lying that it was useless to attempt a shot. In their happy dreams they must have been suddenly

disturbed by the scent of an enemy, for, without the least warning, they suddenly sprang to their feet with

astonishing quickness, and with a loud and sharp whiff, whiff, whiff! one of them charged straight at me. I

fired my righthand barrel in his throat, as it was useless to aim at the head protected by two horns at the

nose. This turned him, but had no other effect, and the two animals thundered off together at a tremendous

Now for a "tally ho!" Our stock of gum was scattered on the ground, and away went the aggageers in full

speed after the two rhinoceros. Without waiting to reload, I quickly remounted my horse Tetel, and, with

Suleiman in company, I spurred hard to overtake the flying Arabs. Tetel was a good strong cob, but not very

fast; however, I believe he never went so well as upon that day, for, although an Abyssinian horse, I had a

pair of English spurs, which worked like missionaries, but with a more decided result. The ground was

awkward for riding at full speed, as it was an open forest of mimosas, which, although wide apart, were very

difficult to avoid, owing to the low crowns of spreading branches; these, being armed with fishhook thorns,

would have been serious on a collision. I kept the party in view, until in about a mile we arrived upon open

ground. Here I again applied the spur, and by degrees I crept up, always gaining, until I at length joined the

Here was a sight to drive a hunter wild! The two rhinoceros were running neck and neck, like a pair of horses

in harness, but bounding along at tremendous speed within ten yards of the leading Hamran. This was Taher

Sheriff, who, with his sword drawn, and his long hair flying wildly behind him, urged his horse forward in

the race, amidst a cloud of dust raised by the two huge but active beasts, that tried every sinew of the horses.

Roder Sheriff, with the withered arm, was second; with the reins hung upon the hawklike claw that was all

that remained of a hand, but with his naked sword grasped in his right, he kept close to his brother, ready to

second his blow. Abou Do was third; his hair flying in the windhis heels dashing against the flanks of his

horse, to which he shouted in his excitement to urge him to the front, while he leant forward with his long

sword, in the wild energy of the moment, as though hoping to reach the game against all possibility. Now for

the spurs! and as these, vigorously applied, screwed an extra stride out of Tetel, I soon found myself in the

ruck of men, horses, and drawn swords. There were seven of us,and passing Abou Do, whose face wore an

expression of agony at finding that his horse was failing, I quickly obtained a place between the two brothers,

Taher and Roder Sheriff. There had been a jealousy between the two parties of aggageers, and each was

striving to outdo the other; thus Abou Do was driven almost to madness at the superiority of Taher's horse,

while the latter, who was the renowned hunter of the tribe, was determined that his sword should be the first

to taste blood. I tried to pass the rhinoceros on my left, so as to fire close into the shoulder my remaining

barrel with my right hand, but it was impossible to overtake the animals, who bounded along with

undiminished speed. With the greatest exertion of men and horses we could only retain our position within

about three or four yards of their tailsjust out of reach of the swords. The only chance in the race was to

hold the pace until the rhinoceros should begin to flag. The horses were pressed to the utmost; but we had

already run about two miles, and the game showed no signs of giving in. On they flew,sometimes over

open ground, then through low bush, which tried the horses severely; then through strips of open forest, until

at length the party began to tail off, and only a select few kept their places. We arrived at the summit of a

ridge, from which the ground sloped in a gentle inclination for about a mile towards the river; at the foot of

this incline was thick thorny nabbuk jungle, for which impenetrable covert the rhinoceros pressed at their

utmost speed. Never was there better ground for the finish of a race; the earth was sandy, but firm, and as we

saw the winningpost in the jungle that must terminate the hunt, we redoubled our exertions to close with the

unflagging game. Suleiman's horse gave inwe had been for about twenty minutes at a killing pace. Tetel,

although not a fast horse, was good for a distance, and he now proved his power of endurance, as I was riding

at least two stone heavier than any of the party. Only four of the seven remained; and we swept down the

incline, Taher Sheriff still leading, and Abou Do the last! His horse was done, but not the rider; for, springing

to the ground while at full speed, sword in hand, he forsook his tired horse, and, preferring his own legs, he

ran like an antelope, and, for the first hundred yards, I thought he would really pass us, and win the honour of

first blow. It was of no use, the pace was too severe, and, although running wonderfully, he was obliged to

give way to the horses. Only three now followed the rhinocerosTaher Sheriff, his brother Roder, and

myself. I had been obliged to give the second place to Roder, as he was a mere monkey in weight; but I was a

close third. The excitement was intensewe neared the jungle, and the rhinoceros began to show signs of

flagging, as the dust puffed up before their nostrils, and, with noses close to the ground, they snorted as they

still galloped on. Oh for a fresh horse! "A horse ! a horse! my kingdom for a horse!" We were within two

hundred yards of the jungle; but the horses were all done. Tetel reeled as I urged him forward, Roder pushed

ahead; we were close to the dense thorns, and the rhinoceros broke into a trot; they were done! "Now, Taher,

forraarrd! forrraard, Taher!!!" Away he wenthe was close to the very heels of the beasts;

but his horse could do no more than his present pace; still he gained upon the nearest; he leaned forward with

his sword raised for the blowanother moment, and the jungle would be reached! One effort more, and the

sword flashed in the sunshine, as the rearmost rhinoceros disappeared in the thick screen of thorns, with a

gash about a foot long upon his hindquarters. Taher Sheriff shook his bloody sword in triumph above his

head; but the rhinoceros was gone. We were fairly beaten, regularly outpaced; but I believe another two

hundred yards would have given us the victory. "Bravo, Taher," I shouted. He had ridden splendidly, and his

b]ow had been marvellously delivered at an extremely long reach, as he was nearly out of his saddle when he

sprang forward to enable the blade to obtain a cut at the last moment. He could not reach the hamstring, as his

We all immediately dismounted; the horses were thoroughly done, and I at once loosened the girths and

contemplated my steed Tetel, who with head lowered, and legs wide apart, was a tolerable example of the

effects of pace. The other aggageers shortly arrived, and as the rival Abou Do joined us, Taher Sheriff quietly

wiped the blood off his sword without making a remark; this was a bitter moment for the discomfited Abou

Although we had failed, I never enjoyed a hunt so much either before or since; it was a magnificent run, and

still more magnificent was the idea that a man, with no weapon but a sword, could attack and generally

vanquish every huge animal of creation. I felt inclined to discard all my rifles, and to adopt the sabre, with a

firstclass horse instead of the common horses of this country, that were totally unfit for such a style of

Taher Sheriff explained that at all times the rhinoceros was the most difficult animal to sabre, on account of

his extraordinary swiftness, and, although he had killed many with the sword, it was always after a long and

fatiguing hunt: at the close of which, the animal becoming tired, generally turned to bay, in which case one

hunter occupied his attention, while another galloped up behind, and severed the hamstring. The rhinoceros,

unlike the elephant, can go very well upon three legs, which enhances the danger, as one cut will not utterly

There is only one species of this animal in Abyssinia; this is the twohorned black rhinoceros, known in

South Africa as the keitloa. This animal is generally five feet six inches to five feet eight inches high at the

shoulder, and, although so bulky and heavily built, it is extremely active, as our long and fruitless hunt had

exemplified. The skin is about half the thickness of that of the hippopotamus, but of extreme toughness and

closeness of texture; when dried and polished it resembles horn. Unlike the Indian species of rhinoceros, the

black variety of Africa is free from folds, and the hide fits smoothly on the body like that of the buffalo. This

twohorned black species is exceedingly vicious; it is one of the very few animals that will generally assume

the offensive; it considers all creatures to be enemies, and, although it is not acute in either sight or hearing, it

possesses so wonderful a power of scent, that it will detect a stranger at a distance of five or six hundred

I have observed that a rhinoceros will generally charge down upon the object that it smells, but does not see;

thus when the animal is concealed either in high grass or thick jungle, should it scent a man who may be

passing unseen to windward, it will rush down furiously upon the object it has winded, with three loud

whiffs, resembling a jet of steam from a safetyvalve. As it is most difficult and next to impossible to kill a

rhinoceros when charging, on account of the protection to the brain afforded by the horns, an unexpected

charge in thick jungle is particularly unpleasant; especially when on horseback, as there is no means of

escape but to rush headlong through all obstacles, when the rider will most likely share the fate that befell the

The horns of the black Abyssinian species seldom exceed two feet in length, and are generally much shorter;

they are not fitted upon the bone like the horns of all other animals, but are merely rooted upon the thick skin,

of which they appear to be a continuation. Although the horn of a rhinoceros is a weapon of immense power,

it has no solid foundation, but when the animal is killed, it can be separated from its hold upon the second

day after death, by a slight blow with a cane. The base forms an exceedingly shallow cup, and much

resembles the heart of an artichoke when the leaves have been picked off. The teeth are very peculiar, as the

molars have a projecting cutting edge on the exterior side; thus the jaws when closed form a pair of shears, as

the projecting edges of the upper and lower rows overlap: this makes a favourable arrangement of nature to

enable the animal to clip off twigs and the branches upon which it feeds, as, although it does not absolutely

refuse grass, the rhinoceros is decidedly a wood eater. There are particular bushes which form a great

attraction, among these is a dwarf mimosa with a reddish bark: this tree grows in thick masses, which the

rhinoceros clips so closely that it frequently resembles a quickset hedge that has been cut by the woodman's

shears. These animals are generally seen in pairs, or the male, female, and calf; the mother is very

affectionate, and exceedingly watchful and savage. Although so large an animal, the cry is very insignificant,

and is not unlike the harsh shrill sound of a penny trumpet. The drinking hour is about 8 P.M. or two hours

after sunset, at which time the rhinoceros arrives at the river from his daily retreat, which is usually about

four miles in the interior. He approaches the water by regular paths made by himself, but not always by the

same route; and, after drinking, he generally retires to a particular spot beneath a tree that has been visited

upon regular occasions; in such places large heaps of dung accumulate. The hunters take advantage of this

peculiarity of the rhinoceros, and they set traps in the path to his private retreat; but he is so extremely wary,

and so acute is the animal's power of scent, that the greatest art is necessary in setting the snare. A circular

hole about two feet deep and fifteen inches in diameter is dug in the middle of his run, near to the tree that

has been daily visited; upon this hole is placed a hoop of tough wood arranged with a vast number of sharp

spikes of a strong elastic wood, which, fastened to the rim, meet in the centre, and overlap each other as

would the spokes of a wheel in the absence of the nave, if lengthened sufficiently. We will simplify the hoop

by calling it a wheel without a centre, the spokes sharpened and overlapping the middle. The instrument

being fitted neatly above the hole, a running noose of the strongest rope is laid in the circle upon the wheel;

the other extremity of the rope is fastened to the trunk of a tree that has been felled for that purpose, and

deeply notched at one end to prevent the rope from slipping. This log, which weighs about five or six

hundredweight, is then buried horizontally in the ground, and the entire trap is covered with earth and

carefully concealed; the surface is smoothed over with a branch instead of the hand, as the scent of a human

touch would at once be detected by the rhinoceros. When completed, a quantity of the animal's dung is swept

from the heap upon the snare. If the trap is undiscovered, the rhinoceros steps upon the hoop, through which

his leg sinks into the hole, and upon his attempt to extricate his foot, the noose draws tight over the legs; as

the spiked hoop fixing tightly into the skin prevents the noose from slipping over the foot. Once caught, his

first effort to escape drags the heavy log from the trench, and as the animal rushes furiously away, this acts as

a drag, and by catching in the jungle and the protruding roots of trees, it quickly fatigues him. On the

following morning the hunters discover the rhinoceros by the track of the log that has ploughed along the

ground, and the animal is killed by lances, or by the sword. The hide of a rhinoceros will produce seven

shields; these are worth about two dollars each, as simple hide before manufacture; the horn is sold in

Abyssinia for about two dollars per pound, for the manufacture of swordhilts, which are much esteemed if

Upon our return to camp, I found that the woman Barrake was ill. She had insisted upon eating a large

quantity of the fruit of the hegleek tree (Balanites Aegyptiaca), which abounded in this neighbourhood. This

tree is larger than the generality in that country, being about thirty feet in height and eighteen inches in

diameter; the ashes of the burnt wood are extremely rich in potash, and the fruit, which is about the size and

shape of a date, is sometimes pounded and used by the Arabs in lieu of soap for washing their clothes. This

fruit is exceedingly pleasant, but in a raw state it has an irritating effect upon the bowels, and should be used

in small quantities. Barrake had been cautioned by the Arabs and ourselves, but she had taken a fancy that she

was determined to gratify; therefore she had eaten the forbidden fruit from morning until night, and a

grievous attack of diarrhoea was the consequence. My wife had boiled the fruit with wild honey, and had

made a most delicious preserve; in this state it was not unwholesome. She had likewise preserved the fruit of

the nabbuk in a similar manner: the latter resembles minute apples in appearance, with something of the

medlar in flavour; enormous quantities were produced upon the banks of the river, which, falling when ripe,

were greedily eaten by guineafowl, wild hogs, antelopes, and monkeys. Elephants are particularly fond of

the fruit of the hegleek, which, although apparently too insignificant for the attention of such mighty animals,

they nevertheless enjoy beyond any other food, and they industriously gather them one by one. At the season

when the fruit is ripe, the hegleek tree is a certain attraction to elephants, who shake the branches and pick up

the fallen berries with their trunks; frequently they overturn the tree itself, as a more direct manner of feeding.

Florian was quite incapable of hunting, as he was in a weak state of health, and had for some months been

suffering from chronic dysentery. I had several times cured him, but, as Barrake insisted upon eating fruit, so

he had a weakness for the strongest black coffee, which, instead of drinking, like the natives, in minute cups,

he swallowed wholesale in large basins, several times a day; this was actual poison with his complaint, and

he was completely ruined in health. He had excellent servants,Richarn, whom I subsequently engaged,

who was my only faithful man in my journey up the White Nile, and two good Dongalowas.

At this time, his old companion, Johann Schmidt, the carpenter, arrived, having undertaken a contract to

provide, for the Italian Zoological Gardens, a number of animals. I therefore proposed that the two old friends

should continue together, while I would hunt by myself, with the aggageers, towards the east and south.

This arrangement was agreed to, and we parted. In the following season, I engaged this excellent man, Johann

Schmidt, as my lieutenant for the White Nile expedition, on the banks of which fatal river he now lies, with

Poor Florian at length recovered from his complaint, but was killed by a lion. He had wounded an elephant,

which on the following morning he found dead; a lion had eaten a portion during the night. While he was

engaged with his men in extracting the tusks, one of his hunters (a Tokroori) followed the track of the lion on

the sand, and found the animal lying beneath a bush; he fired a singlebarrelled rifle, and wounded it in the

thigh. He at once returned to his master, who accompanied him to the spot, and the lion was found lying

under the same bush, licking the wound. Florian fired and missed; the lion immediately crouched for a

spring; Florian fired his remaining barrel, the ball merely grazed the lion, who almost in the same instant

bounded forward, and struck him upon the head with a fearful blow of the paw, at the same time it seized him

The Tokroori hunter, instead of flying from the danger, placed the muzzle of his rifle to the lion's ear, and

blew its brains out on the body of his master. The unfortunate Florian had been struck dead, and great

difficulty was found in extracting the claws of the lion, which had penetrated the skull. Florian, although a

determined hunter, was an exceedingly bad shot, and withal badly armed for encounters with dangerous

game; I had frequently prophesied some calamity from the experience I had had in a few days' shooting in his

This was the fate of two good and sterling Germans, who had been my companions in this wild country,

where degrees of rank are entirely forgotten, provided a man be honest and true. I constantly look back to the

European acquaintances and friends that I made during my sojourn in Africa, nearly all of whom are dead: a

merciful Providence guided us through many dangers and difficulties, and shielded us from all harm, during

Our camels returned from Geera with corn, accompanied by an Abyssinian hunter, who was declared by

Abou Do to be a good man, and dexterous with the sword. We accordingly moved our camp, said adieu to

OUR course lay as usual along the banks of the river, which we several times forded to avoid the bends.

Great numbers of antelopes were upon the river's bed, having descended to drink; by making a circuit, I cut

off one party upon their retreat, and made two good shots with the Fletcher No. 24, bagging two tetel

(Antelopus Bubalis), at considerable ranges. I also shot an ariel (G. Dama), and, upon arriving at a deep pool

in the river, I shot a bull hippopotamus, as a present for Taher Sheriff and his brothers. We decided upon

encamping at a spot known to the Arabs as Delladilla; this was the forest upon the margin of the river where I

had first shot the bull elephant, when the aggageers fought with him upon foot. The trees were larger in this

locality than elsewhere, as a great portion of the country was flooded by the river dnring the rainy season, and

much rich soil had been deposited; this, with excessive moisture, had produced a forest of fine timber, with

an undergrowth of thick nabbuk. We fixed upon a charming spot for a camp, beneath a large tree that bore a

peculiar fruit, suspended from the branches by a strong but single fibre, like a cord; each fruit was about

eighteen inches in length, by six in diameter; it was perfectly worthless, but extremely ornamental. We had

arrived beneath this tree, and were still on horseback; my wife had just suggested that it would be unpleasant

should one of the large fruit fall upon our heads if we camped under the branches, when suddenly a lioness

glided by us, within three yards of the horses, and almost immediately disappeared in the thick thorns;

unfortunately, I had the moment before given my rifle to a servant, prior to dismounting. I searched the

This spot was so favourably situated that I determined to remain for some time, as I could explore the country

on horseback to a great distance upon all sides. We immediately set to work to construct our new camp, and

by the evening our people had cleared a circle of fifty yards diameter; this was swept perfectly clean, and the

ground being hard, though free from stones, the surface was as even as a paved floor. The entire circle was

well protected with a strong fence of thorn bushes, for which the kittar is admirably adapted; the head being

mushroomshaped, the entire tree is cut down, and the stem being drawn towards the inside of the camp, the

thick and widespreading thorny crest covers about twelve feet of the exterior frontage; a fence thus arranged

is quickly constructed, and is quite impervious. Two or three large trees grew within the camp; beneath the

shade of this our tent was pitched. This we never inhabited, but it served as an ordinary room, and a

protection to the luggage, guns, The horses were well secured within a double circle of thorns, and the goats

wandered about at liberty, as they were too afraid of wild animals to venture from the camp: altogether this

was the most agreeable spot we had ever occupied; even the nightfires would be perfectly concealed within

the dense shade of the nabbuk jungle, thus neither man nor beast would be aware of our presence. We were

about a hundred paces distant from the margin of the river; late in the evening I took my rod, and fished in the

deep bend beneath a cliff of conglomerate pebbles. I caught only one fish, a baggar, about twelve pounds, but

I landed three large turtles; these creatures were most determined in taking the bait; they varied in size from

fifty to about ninety pounds, and were the same species as that which inhabits the Nile (Trionis Nilotica).

From one of them we took upwards of a hundred eggs which we converted into omelettes, but they were

Although this species of turtle is unprepossessing in appearance, having a head very like that of a snake, with

a dark green shell spotted with yellow, it produces excellent soup; the body is exceedingly flat, and the

projecting edges of the shell are soft; it runs extremely fast upon the shore, and is suggestive of the tortoise

that beat the hare in the wellknown race. Throughout the Nile and its tributaries there are varieties of fish

and reptiles closely connected, and the link can be distinctly traced in the progression of development. There

is a fish with a hard bony frame, or shell, that includes the head, and extends over more than half the body;

this has two long and moveable spikes beneath the fore fins, upon which it can raise itself as upon legs when

upon the land; when first caught, this fish makes a noise something like the mewing of a cat: this appears to

be closely linked to the tortoise. The Lepidosiren Annectens, found in the White Nile, is a link between the

fish and the frog; and certain varieties of mud fish that remain alive throughout a dry season in the sunbaked

earth, and reappear with the following rains exhibit a close affinity to reptiles.

On the morning after our arrival, I started to explore the country with the aggageers, and rode about forty

miles, From this point, hills of basalt and granite commenced, connected by rugged undulations of white

quartz, huge blocks of which were scattered upon the surface; in many of these I found thin veins of galena.

All the rocks were igneous; we had left the sandstone that had marked the course of the Atbara and the valley

of the Settite as far as Ombrega, and I was extremely puzzled to account for the presence of the pure white

and rosecoloured limestone that we had found only in one placeGeera. As we were now among the hills

and mountains, the country was extremely beautiful; at the farthest point of that day's excursion we were

close to the high range from which, in the rainy season, innumerable torrents pour into the Settite; some of

these gorges were ornamented with the dark foliage of large tamarind trees, while upon rocks that did not

appear to offer any sustenance, the unsightly yet mighty baobab* grasped with its gnarled roots the blocks of

Through this romantic wilderness, the Settite flowed in a clear and beautiful stream, sometimes contracted

between cliffs to a width of a hundred yards, at others stretching to three times that distance. The

hippopotami were in great numbers; many were lying beneath the shady trees upon the banks, and splashed

into the water as we appeared; others were basking in large herds upon the shallows; while the young calves,

supported upon the backs of their mothers, sailed about upon their animated rafts in perfect security. The

Base had been here recently, as we discovered their footprints upon the sand, and we arrived at some tobacco

plantations that they had formed upon the sandbanks of the river. The aggageers expressed their

determination to sabre them should we happen to meet, and were much displeased at my immediately placing

a veto upon their bloody intentions, with a reservation for necessity in selfdefence.

The Base were far too wide awake, and, although seen once during the day by my people, they disappeared

like monkeys; their spies had doubtless reported our movements ever since we had entered their country, and,

fearing the firearms, they had retreated to their fastnesses among the mountains.

During the day's march we had seen a large quantity of game, but I had not wished to shoot until on our

return towards the camp. We were about four miles from home, when a nellut (A. Strepsiceros) bounded

away from a ravine. I was riding Tetel, whom I had taught to stand fire, in which he was remarkably steady. I

made a quick shot with the little Fletcher from the saddlle; but, as the nellut ran straight before me, the bullet

struck the haunch: away went the aggageers after the wounded animal, like greyhounds, and in a few hundred

The Nellut is the handsomest of all the large antelopes; the male is about thirteen hands high, and carries a

pair of beautiful spiral horns, upwards of three feet in length; the colour of the hide is a dark mousegrey,

ornamented with white stripes down the flanks, and a white line along the back from the shoulder to the tail.

The female is without horns, but is in other respects similar to the male. These beautiful animals do not

inhabit the plains like the other varieties of antelopes, but are generally found in deepwooded ravines. In

The aggageers quickly flayed and quartered the game, which was arranged upon the horses, and thus it was

On the following morning, at my usual hour of starting, a little before sunrise, we crossed a deep portion of

the river, through which the horses were obliged to swim; on this occasion I rode Aggahr, who was my best

hunter. In that very charming and useful book by Mr. Francis Galton, "The Art of Travel," advice is given for

crossing a deep river, by holding to the tail of the swimming horse. In this I cannot agree; the safety of the

man is much endangered by the heels of the horse, and his security depends upon the length of the animal's

tail. In rivers abounding in crocodiles, which generally follow an animal before they seize, the man hanging

on to the tail of the horse is a most alluring bait, and he would certainly be taken, should one of these horrible

monsters be attracted to the party. I have always found great comfort in crossing a river by simply holding to

the mane, just in front of the saddle, with my left hand, with the bridle grasped as loosely as possible, so that

the horse does not feel the bit; in this position, on the off side, the animal does not feel any hindrance; the

man not only can direct his horse, but his presence gives it confidence, as he can speak to it coaxingly while

swimming with one arm by its side. Upon landing, he at once controls the horse by the reins within his left

Many horses become exceedingly scared in swimming a rapid river, and will frequently lose their presence of

mind, and swim with the current, in which case they may miss the favourable landing place; if the man holds

by the tail, he has no control over the horse upon landing, and, if wild or vicious, the animal will probably

kick up its heels and bolt away, leaving the unfortunate proprietor helpless. In swimming a river with the

horse, the powder, should be made into a parcel with your outer garment, and tied upon the head; then lead

your horse gently into the water, and for a moment allow it to drink, to prevent all shyness; continue to lead it

until you lose your depth, when, by holding with your left hand to the mane, both horse and man will cross

We had crossed the river, and, as we passed through an opening in the belt of jungle on the banks, and

entered upon a plain interspersed with clumps of bush, we perceived, at about two hundred yards distance, a

magnificent lion, whose shaggy yellow mane gave him a colossal appearance, as he stalked quietly along the

flat sandy ground towards the place of his daily retreat. The aggageers whispered, "El Assut!" (the lion), and

instinctively the swords flashed from their sheaths. In an instant, the horses were at full speed sweeping over

the level ground. The lion had not observed us; but, upon hearing the sound of the hoofs, he halted and raised

his head, regarding us for a moment with wonder, as we rapidly decreased our distance, when, thinking

retreat advisable, he bounded off, followed by the excited hunters, as hard as the horses could be pressed.

Having obtained a good start, we had gained upon him, and we kept up the pace until we at length arrived

within about eighty yards of the lion, who, although he appeared to fly easily along like a cat, did not equal

the speed of the horses. It was a beautiful sight. Aggahr was an exceedingly fast horse, and, having formerly

belonged to one of the Hamran hunters, he thoroughly understood his work. His gallop was perfection, and

his long steady stride was as easy to himself as to his rider; there was no necessity to guide him, as he

followed an animal like a greyhound, and sailed between the stems of the numerous trees, carefully avoiding

their trunks, and choosing his route where the branches allowed ample room for the rider to pass beneath. In

about five minutes we had run the lion straight across the plain, through several open strips of mimosas, and

we were now within a few yards, hut unfortunately, just as Taher and Abou Do dashed forward in the

endeavour to ride upon either flank, he sprang down a precipitous ravine, and disappeared in the thick thorns.

The ravine formed a broad bottom, which, covered with dense green nabbuk, continued for a great distance,

and effectually saved the lion. I was much disappointed, as we should have had a glorious fight, and I had

long sought for an opportunity of witnessing an attack upon the lion with the sword. The aggageers were

equally annoyed, and they explained that they should have been certain to kill him. Their plan was to ride

upon either flank, at a few yards' distance, when he would have charged one man, who would have dashed

away, while the other hunter would have slashed the lion through the back with his sword. They declared that

a good hunter should be able to protect himself by a backhanded blow with his sword, should the lion attack

the horse from behind; but that the great danger in a lion hunt arose when the animal took refuge in a solitary

bush, and turned to bay. In such instances the hunters surrounded the bush, and rode direct towards him,

when he generally sprang out upon some man or horse; he was then cut down immediately by the sabre of the

next hunter. The aggageers declared that, in the event of an actual fight, the death of the lion was certain,

The morning gallop had warmed our nags after their bath in the cool river, and we now continued leisurely

towards the stream, upon the margin of which we rode for several miles. We had determined to set fire to the

grass, as, although upon poorer soil it had almost disappeared through the withering of the roots, upon fertile

ground it was almost nine feet high, and not only concealed the game, but prevented us from riding. We

accordingly rode towards a spot where bright yellow herbage invited the firestick; but hardly had we

arrived, when we noticed a solitary bull buffalo (Bos Caffer), feeding within about a hundred and fifty yards.

I immediately dismounted, and, creeping towards him to within fifty paces, I shot him through the neck with

one of my Reilly No. 10 rifles. I had hoped to drop him dead by the shot, instead of which he galloped off, of

course followed by the aggageers, with the exception of one, who held my horse. Quickly mounted, we

joined in the hunt, and in about three minutes we ran the buffalo to bay in a thicket of thorns on the margin of

the river. These thorns were just thick enough to conceal him at times, but to afford us a glance of his figure

as he moved from his position. There was a glade which cut through and divided the jungle, and I wished the

aggageers to drive him, if possible, across this, when I should have a good opportunity of shooting. To my

astonishment, one of the most daring hunters jumped off his horse with his drawn sword, and, telling me to

look out, he coolly entered the jungle alone to court the attack of the buffalo. I would not allow him to risk

his life for an animal that I had been the first to wound, therefore I insisted upon his return, and begging Abou

Do to hold my bridle when I should fire, I rode with him carefully along the skirts of the jungle along the

glade, keeping a good lookout among the thorns for the buffalo. Presently I heard a short grunt within

twenty yards of us, and I quickly perceived the buffalo standing broadside on, with his head to the wind, that

I had my little Fletcher No. 24 in my handthat handy little weapon that almost formed an extra bone of

myself, and, whispering to Abou Do to hold my bridle close to the bit, as Aggahr was not very steady under

fire, I took a clean shot direct at the centre of the shoulder. The ball smacked as though it had struck an iron

target. Aggahr gave a start, and for the moment both Abou Do and myself were prepared for a rush; but the

buffalo had never flinched, and he remained standing as though immoveable. Abon Do whispered, "You

missed him, I heard the bullet strike the tree;" I shook my head, and quickly reloadedit was impossible to

miss at that distance, and I knew that I had fired steadily. Hardly had I rammed the bullet down, when, with a

sudden thump, down fell the buffalo upon his side, and, rolling over upon his back, he gave a few tremendous

Great caution should be invariably used in approaching a fallen buffalo and all other dangerous animals, as

they are apt to recover sufficiently, upon seeing the enemy, to make a last effort to attack, which is generally

more serious than any other phase of the hunt. We accordingly pitched a few large stones at him to test the

reality of death, and then walked up and examined him. The Reilly No. 10 had gone quite through the neck,

but had missed a vital part. The little Fletcher had made a clean and minute hole exactly through the shoulder,

and upon opening the body we found the ball sticking in the ribs on the opposite side, having passed through

The aggageers now carefully flayed it, and divided the tough hide into portions accurately measured for

shields. One man galloped back to direct the two watercamels that were following in our tracks, while

others cut up the buffalo, and prepared the usual disgusting feast by cutting up the reeking paunch, over

which they squeezed the contents of the gallbladder, and consumed the whole, raw and steaming.* On the

arrival of the camels they were quickly loaded, and we proceeded to fire the grass on our return to camp. The

Arabs always obtained their fire by the friction of two pieces of wood; accordingly, they set to work. A piece

of dry nabbuk was selected, about as thick as the little finger. A notch was cut in this, and it was laid

horizontally upon the ground, with the notch uppermost; into this was fixed the sharp point of a similar piece

of wood, about eighteen inches long, which, being held perpendicularly with both hands, was worked

between the palms like a drill, with as great a pressure as possible, from the top to the bottom, as the hands

descended with the motion of rubbing or rolling the stick. After about two minutes of great labour, the notch

began to smoke, a brown dust, like ground coffee, fell from the singed wood, and this charred substance, after

increased friction, emitted a still denser smoke, and commenced smouldering; the fire was produced. A rag

was torn from the thornbrushed drawers of one of the party, in which the fire was carefully wrapped and

fanned with the breath; it was then placed in a wisp of dry grass, and rapidly turned in the air until the flame

burst forth. A burningglass should be always carried in these countries, where a cloudless sky ensures an

effect. Although in Arab hands the making of fire appears exceedingly simple, I have never been able to

effect it. I have worked at the two sticks until they have been smoking and I have been steaming, with my

hands blistered, but I have never got beyond the smoke; there is a peculiar knack which, like playing the

fiddle, must be acquired, although it looks very easy. It is not every wood that will produce fire by this

method; those most inflammable are the cottontree and the nabbuk. We now descended to the river, and

fired the grass; the north wind was brisk, and the flames extended over miles of country within an hour.

We returned towards the camp. On the way we saw numerous antelopes; and, dismounting, I ordered one of

the hunters to lead my horse while I attempted to stalk a fine buck mehedehet (Redunca Ellipsyprimna).

There were several in the herd, but there was a buck with a fine head a few yards in advance; they were

standing upon an undulation on open ground backed by high grass. I had marked a small bush as my point of

cover, and creeping unobserved towards this, I arrived unseen within about a hundred and twenty yards of the

buck. With the Fletcher 24 I made a good shouldershot; the buck gave a few bounds and fell dead; the does

looked on in astonishment, and I made an equally lucky shot with the lefthand barrel, bringing down what I

The Mehedehet is an antelope of great beauty; it resembles the red deer in colour, but the coat is still rougher;

it stands about thirteen hands in height, with a pair of long slightlycurved annulated horns. The live weight

of the male would be about five hundred pounds; the female, like the nellut (Tragelaphus Strepsiceros), is

devoid of horns, and much resembles the female of the Sambur deer of India. This antelope is the

On arrival at the camp, I resolved to fire the entire country on the following day, and to push still farther up

the course of the Settite to the foot of the mountains, and to return to this camp in about a fortnight, by which

time the animals that had been scared away by the fire would have returned. Accordingly, on the following

morning, accompanied by a few of the aggageers, I started upon the south bank of the river, and rode for

some distance into the interior, to the ground that was entirely covered with high withered grass. We were

passing through a mass of kittar and thornbush, almost hidden by the immensely high grass, when, as I was

ahead of the party, I came suddenly upon the tracks of a rhinoceros; these were so unmistakeably recent that I

felt sure we were not far from the animals themselves. As I had wished to fire the grass, I was accompanied

by my Tokrooris, and my horsekeeper, Mahomet No. 2. It was difficult ground for the men, and still more

unfavourable for the horses, as large disjointed masses of stone were concealed in the high grass.

We were just speculating as to the position of the rhinoceros, and thinking how uncommonly unpleasant it

would be should he obtain our wind, when whiff! whiff! whiff! We heard the sharp whistling snort, with a

tremendous rush through the high grass and thorns close to us; and at the same moment two of these

determined brutes were upon us in full charge. I never saw such a scrimmage; sauve qui peut! There was no

time for more than one look behind. I dug the spurs into Aggahr's flanks, and clasping him round the neck, I

ducked my head down to his shoulder, well protected with my strong huntingcap, and I kept the spurs going

as hard as I could ply them, blindly trusting to Providence and my good horse, over big rocks, fallen trees,

thick kittar thorns, and grass ten feet high, with the two infernal animals in full chase only a few feet behind

me. I heard their abominable whiffing close to me, but so did good horse also, and the good old hunter flew

over obstacles that I should have thought impossible, and he dashed straight under the hooked thorn bushes

and doubled like a hare. The aggageers were all scattered; Mahomet No. 2 was knocked over by a rhinoceros;

all the men were sprawling upon the rocks with their guns, and the party was entirely discomfited. Having

passed the kittar thorn, I turned, and, seeing that the beasts had gone straight on, I brought Aggahr's head

round, and tried to give chase, but it was perfectly impossible; it was only a wonder that the horse had

escaped in ground so difficult for riding. Although my clothes were of the strongest and coarsest Arab cotton

cloth, which seldom tore, but simply lost a thread when caught in a thorn, I was nearly naked. My blouse was

reduced to shreds; as I wore sleeves only half way from the shoulder to the elbow, my naked arms were

streaming with blood; fortunately my hunting cap was secured with a chin strap, and still more fortunately I

had grasped the horse's neck, otherwise I must have been dragged out of the saddle by the hooked thorns. All

the men were cut and bruised, some having fallen upon their heads among the rocks, and others had hurt their

legs in falling in their endeavours to escape. Mahomet No. 2, the horsekeeper, was more frightened than

hurt, as he had been knocked down by the shoulder and not by the horn of the rhinoceros, as the animal had

I determined to set fire to the whole country immediately, and descending the hill towards the river to obtain

a favourable wind, I put my men in a line, extending over about a mile along the river's bed, and they fired

the grass in different places. With a loud roar, the flame leapt high in air and rushed forward with astonishing

velocity; the grass was as inflammable as tinder, and the strong north wind drove the long line of fire

We now crossed to the other side of the river to avoid the flames, and we returned towards the camp. On the

way, I made a long shot and badly wounded a tetel, but lost it in thick thorns; shortly after, I stalked a nellut

We arrived early in camp, and on the following day we moved sixteen miles farther up stream, and camped

under a tamarind tree by the side of the river. No European had ever been farther than our last camp,

Delladilla, and that spot had only been visited by Johann Schmidt and Florian. In the previous year, my

aggageers had sabred some of the Base at this very campingplace; they accordingly requested me to keep a

vigilant watch during the night, as they would be very likely to attack us in revenge, unless they had been

scared by the rifles and by the size of our party. They advised me not to remain long in this spot, as it would

be very dangerous for my wife to be left almost alone during the day, when we were hunting, and that the

Base would be certain to espy us from the mountains, and would most probably attack and carry her off when

they were assured of our departure. She was not very nervous about this, but she immediately called the

dragoman, Mahomet, who knew the use of a gun, and she asked him if he would stand by her in case they

were attacked in my absence; the faithful servant replied, "Mahomet fight the Base? No, Missus; Mahomet

not fight; if the Base come, Missus fight; Mahomet run away; Mahomet not come all the way from Cairo to

This frank avowal of his military tactics was very reassuring. There was a high hill of basalt, something

resembling a pyramid, within a quarter of a mile of us; I accordingly ordered some of my men every day to

ascend this lookout station, and I resolved to burn the high grass at once, so as to destroy all cover for the

concealment of an enemy. That evening I very nearly burnt our camp; I had several times ordered the men to

clear away the dry grass for about thirty yards from our restingplace; this they had neglected to obey. We

had been joined a few days before by a party of about a dozen Hamran Arabs, who were hippopotami

hunters; thus we mustered very strong, and it would have been the work of about half an hour to have cleared

The wind was brisk, and blew directly towards our camp, which was backed by the river. I accordingly took a

firestick, and I told my people to look sharp, as they would not clear away the grass. I walked to the foot of

the basalt hill, and fired the grass in several places. In an instant the wind swept the flame and smoke towards

the camp. All was confusion; the Arabs had piled the camelsaddles and all their corn and effects in the high

grass about twenty yards from the tent; there was no time to remove all these things; therefore, unless they

could clear away the grass so as to stop the fire before it should reach the spot, they would be punished for

their laziness by losing their property. The fire travelled quicker than I had expected, and, by the time I had

hastened to the tent, I found the entire party working frantically; the Arabs were slashing down the grass with

their swords, and sweeping it away with their shields, while my Tokrooris were beating it down with long

sticks and tearing it from its withered and fortunately tinderrotten roots, in desperate haste. The flames

rushed on, and we already felt the heat, as volumes of smoke enveloped us; I thought it advisable to carry the

gunpowder (about 20 lbs.), down to the river, together with the rifles; while my wife and Mahomet dragged

the various articles of luggage to the same place of safety. The fire now approached within about sixty yards,

and dragging out the iron pins, I let the tent fall to the ground. The Arabs had swept a line like a highroad

perfectly clean, and they were still tearing away the grass, when they were suddenly obliged to rush back as

Almost instantaneously the smoke blew over us, but the fire had expired upon meeting the cleared ground. I

now gave them a little lecture upon obedience to orders; and from that day, their first act upon halting for the

night was to clear away the grass, lest I should repeat the entertainment. In countries that are covered with dry

grass, it should be an invariable rule to clear the ground around the camp before night; hostile natives will

frequently fire the grass to windward of a party, or careless servants may leave their pipes upon the ground,

which fanned by the wind would quickly create a blaze. That night the mountain afforded a beautiful

appearance as the flames ascended the steep sides, and ran flickering up the deep gullies with a brilliant light.

We were standing outside the tent admiring the scene, which perfectly illuminated the neighbourhood, when

suddenly an apparition of a lion and lioness stood for an instant before us at about fifteen yards distance, and

then disappeared over the blackened ground before I had time to snatch a rifle from the tent. No doubt they

had been disturbed from the mountain by the fire, and had mistaken their way in the country so recently

changed from high grass to black ashes. In this locality I considered it advisable to keep a vigilant watch

A little before sunrise I accompanied the howartis, or hippopotamus hunters, for a day's sport. There were

numbers of hippos in this part of the river, and we were not long before we found a herd. The hunters failed

in several attempts to harpoon them, but they succeeded in stalking a crocodile after a most peculiar fashion.

This large beast was lying upon a sandbank on the opposite margin of the river, close to a bed of rushes.

The howartis, having studied the wind, ascended for about a quarter of a mile, and then swam across the

river, harpoon in hand. The two men reached the opposite bank, beneath which they alternately waded or

swam down the stream towards the spot upon which the crocodile was lying. Thus advancing under cover of

the steep bank, or floating with the stream in deep places, and crawling like crocodiles across the shallows,

the two hunters at length arrived at the bank of rushes, on the other side of which the monster was basking

asleep upon the sand. They were now about waistdeep, and they kept close to the rushes with their harpoons

raised, ready to cast the moment they should pass the rush bed and come in view of the crocodile. Thus

steadily advancing, they had just arrived at the corner within about eight yards of the crocodile, when the

creature either saw them, or obtained their wind; in an inatant it rushed to the water; at the same moment, the

two harpoons were launched with great rapidity by the hunters. One glanced obliquely from the scales; the

other stuck fairly in the tough hide, and the iron, detached from the bamboo, held fast, while the ambatch

float, running on the surface of the water, marked the course of the reptile beneath.

The hunters chose a convenient place, and recrossed the stream to our side, apparently not heeding the

crocodiles more than we should fear pike when bathing in England. They would not waste their time by

securing the crocodile at present, as they wished to kill a hippopotamus; the float would mark the position,

and they would be certain to find it later. We accordingly continued our search for hippopotami; these

animals appeared to be on the qui vive, and, as the hunters once more failed in an attempt, I made a clean shot

behind the ear of one, and killed it dead. At length we arrived at a large pool in which were several sandbanks

covered with rushes, and many rocky islands. Among these rocks was a herd of hippopotami, consisting of an

old bull and several cows; a young hippo was standing, like an ugly little statue, on a protruding rock, while

another infant stood upon its mother's back that listlessly floated on the water.

This was an admirable place for the hunters. They desired me to lie down, and they crept into the jungle out

of view of the river; I presently observed them stealthily descending the dry bed about two hundred paces

above the spot where the hippos were basking behind the rocks. They entered the river, and swam down the

centre of the stream towards the rock. This was highly exciting:the hippos were quite unconscious of the

approaching danger, as, steadily and rapidly, the hunters floated down the strong current; they neared the

rock, and both heads disappeared as they purposely sunk out of view; in a few seconds later they reappeared

at the edge of the rock upon which the young hippo stood. It would be difficult to say which started first, the

astonished young hippo into the water, or the harpoons from the hands of the howartis! It was the affair of a

moment; the hunters dived directly they had hurled their harpoons, and, swimming for some distance under

water, they came to the surface, and hastened to the shore lest an infuriated hippopotamus should follow

them. One harpoon had missed; the other had fixed the bull of the herd, at which it had been surely aimed.

This was grand sport! The bull was in the greatest fury, and rose to the surface, snorting and blowing in his

impotent rage; but as the ambatch float was exceedingly large, and this naturally accompanied his

movements, he tried to escape from his imaginary persecutor, and dived constantly, only to find his

pertinacious attendant close to him upon regaining the surface. This was not to last long; the howartis were in

earnest, and they at once called their party, who, with two of the aggageers, Abou Do and Suleiman, were

near at hand; these men arrived with the long ropes that form a portion of the outfit for hippo hunting.

The whole party now halted on the edge of the river, while two men swam across with one end of the long

rope. Upon gaining the opposite bank, I observed that a second rope was made fast to the middle of the main

line; thus upon our side we held the ends of two ropes, while on the opposite side they had only one;

accordingly, the point of junction of the two ropes in the centre formed an acute angle. The object of this was

soon practically explained. Two men upon our side now each held a rope, and one of these walked about ten

yards before the other. Upon both sides of the river the people now advanced, dragging the rope on the

surface of the water until they reached the ambatch float that was swimming to and fro, according to the

movements of the hippopotamus below. By a dexterous jerk of the main line, the float was now placed

between the two ropes, and it was immediately secured in the acute angle by bringing together the ends of

The men on the opposite bank now dropped their line, and our men hauled in upon the ambatch float that was

held fast between the ropes. Thus cleverly made sure, we quickly brought a strain upon the hippo, and,

although I have had some experience in handling big fish, I never knew one pull so lustily as the amphibious

animal that we now alternately coaxed and bullied. He sprang out of the water, gnashed his huge jaws,

snorted with tremendous rage, and lashed the river into foam; he then dived, and foolishly approached us

beneath the water. We quickly gathered in the slack line, and took a round turn upon a large rock, within a

few feet of the river. The hippo now rose to the surface, about ten yards from the hunters, and, jumping half

out of the water, he snapped his great jaws together, endeavouring to catch the rope, but at the same instant

two harpoons were launched into his side. Disdaining retreat, and maddened with rage, the furious animal

charged from the depths of the river, and, gaining a footing, he reared his bulky form from the surface, came

boldly upon the sandbank, and attacked the hunters openmouthed. He little knew his enemy; they were not

the men to fear a pair of gaping jaws, armed with a deadly array of tusks, but half a dozen lances were hurled

at him, some entering his mouth from a distance of five or six paces, at the same time several men threw

handfuls of sand into his enormous eyes. This baffled him more than the lances; he crunched the shafts

between his powerful jaws like straws, but he was beaten by the sand, and, shaking his huge head, he

retreated to the river. During his sally upon the shore, two of the hunters had secured the ropes of the

harpoons that had been fastened in his body just before his charge; he was now fixed by three of these deadly

instruments, but suddenly one rope gave way, having been bitten through by the enraged beast, who was still

beneath the water. Immediately after this he appeared on the surface, and, without a moment's hesitation, he

once more charged furiously from the water straight at the hunters, with his huge mouth open to such an

extent that he could have accommodated two inside passengers. Suleiman was wild with delight, and

springing forward lance in hand, he drove it against the head of the formidable animal, but without effect. At

the same time, Abou Do met the hippo sword in hand, reminding me of Perseus slaying the seamonster that

would devour Andromeda, but the sword made a harmless gash, and the lance, already blunted against the

rocks, refused to penetrate the tough hide; once more handfuls of sand were pelted upon his face, and, again

repulsed by this blinding attack, he was forced to retire to his deep hole and wash it from his eyes. Six times

during the fight the valiant bull hippo quitted his watery fortress, and charged resolutely at his pursuers; he

had broken several of their lances in his jaws, other lances had been hurled, and, falling upon the rocks, they

were blunted, and would not penetrate. The fight had continued for three hours, and the sun was about to set,

accordingly the hunters begged me to give him the coup de grace, as they had hauled him close to the shore,

and they feared he would sever the rope with his teeth. I waited for a good opportunity, when he boldly raised

his head from water about three yards from the rifle, and a bullet from the little Fletcher between the eyes

closed the last act. This spot was not far from the pyramidical hill beneath which I had fixed our camp, to

The next morning, I started to the mountains to explore the limit that I had proposed for my expedition on the

Settite. The Arabs had informed me that a river of some importance descended from the mountains, and

joined the main stream about twelve miles from our camp. The aggageers were seriously expecting an attack

from the Base, and they advised me not to remain much longer in this spot. The route was highly interesting:

about five miles to the southeast of the camp we entered the hilly and mountainous country; to the east rose

the peaked head of Allatakoora, about seven thousand feet from the base, while S.S.E. was the lofty

tablemountain, known by the Arabs as Boorkotan. We rode through fertile valleys, all of which were free

from grass, as the various fires had spread throughout the country; at times we entered deep gorges between

the hills, which were either granite, quartz, or basalt, the latter predominating. In about three hours and a half

we arrived at Hor Mehetape, the stream that the Arabs had reported. Although a powerful torrent during the

rains, it was insignificant as one of the tributaries to the Settite, as the breadth did not exceed twentyfive

yards. At this season it was nearly dry, and at no time did it appear to exceed a depth of ten or twelve feet. As

we had arrived at this point, some distance above the junction, we continued along the margin of the stream

for about two miles until we reached the Settite. The Hor (a ravine) Mehetape was the limit of my

exploration; it was merely a rapid mountain torrent, the individual effect of which would be trifling; but we

were now among the mountains whose drainage caused the sudden rise of the Atbara river and the Nile. Far

as the eye could reach to the south and east, the range extended in a confused mass of peaks of great altitude,

from the sharp granite head of one thousand, to flattopped basalt hills of five or six thousand feet, and other

The Settite was very beautiful in this spot, as it emerged from the gorge between the mountains, and it lay in

a rough stony valley about two hundred feet below our path as we ascended from the junction of the Hor to

better riding ground. In many places, our route lay over broken stones, which sloped at an inclination of about

thirty degrees throughout the entire distance of the river below; these were formed of decomposed basalt

rocks that had apparently been washed from decaying hills by the torrents of the rainy season. At other parts

of the route, we crossed above similar debris of basalt that lay at an angle of about sixty degrees, from a

height of perhaps two hundred feet to the water's edge, and reminded me of the rubbish shot from the side of

a mountain when boring a tunnel. The whole of the basalt in this portion of the country was a dark slate

colour; in some places it was almost black; upon breaking a great number of pieces I found small crystals of

olivine. Much of the granite was a deep red, but the exterior coating was in all cases decomposed, and

crumbled at a blow; exhibiting a marked contrast to the hardfaced granite blocks in the rainless climate of

Lower Egypt. We saw but little game during the marcha few nellut and tetel, and the smaller antelopes, but

We returned to camp late in the evening, and I found the howartis had secured the crocodile of yesterday, but

the whole party was anxious to return to the camp at Delladilla, as unpleasant reports were brought into camp

ABOU DO and Suleiman had lately given me some trouble, especially the former, whose covetous nature

had induced him to take much more than his share of the hides of buffaloes and other animals that I had shot;

all of which I had given to my head camelman and tracker, Taher Noor, to divide among his people and the

Tokrooris. This conduct was more improper, since the aggageers had become perfectly useless as

elephanthunters; they had ridden so recklessly upon unnecessary occasions, that all their horses were lamed,

and, with the exception of Abou Do's, they were incapable of hunting. My three, having been well cared for,

were in excellent condition. Abou Do coolly proposed that I should lend him my horses, which I of course

refused, as I had a long journey before me; this led to disagreement, and I ordered him and his people to leave

my camp, and return to Geera. During the time they had been with me, I had shot great numbers of animals,

including large antelopes, buffaloes, elephants, and about twenty camelloads of dried flesh, hides, fat, had

been transported to Geera as the Arabs' share of the spoils. They had also the largest share of ivory, and

altogether they had never made so successful a hunting expedition. It was time to part; their horses being used

up, they began to be discontented, therefore I had concluded that it would be advisable to separate, to avoid a

I warned them not to disturb my huntinggrounds by attempting to hunt during their journey, but they were

to. ride straight home, which they could accomplish in four days, without baggage camels. This they

I was now without aggageers, as Taher Sheriff's party had disagreed with Abou Do some time before, and

they were hunting on their own account on the banks of the river Royan, which I intended to visit after I

should have thoroughly explored the Settite. I made up my mind to have one more day in the neighbourhood

of my present camp, and then to return to our old quarters at Delladilla, previous to our journey to the Royan

Within three hundred yards of the camp was a regular game path, by which the animals arrived at the river to

drink every morning from seven to nine. I had shot several tetel and ariel by simply waiting behind a rock at

this place, and, as this was my last day, I once more concealed myself, and was shortly rewarded by the

arrival of several herds, including nellut (A. Strepsiceros), tetel (A. Bubalis), ariel (G. Dama), the

blackstriped gazelle (G. Dorcas), the small oterop (Calotragus Montanus); and, among these, two ostriches.

I had seen very few ostriches in this country. I now had a good chance, as the herd of animals returned from

drinking by charging at full speed up the steep bank from the water, and they passed about ninety yards from

my hidingplace, headed by the ostriches. Having the little Fletcher, I was suddenly tempted to fire a right

and left, so as to bag an ostrich with one barrel, and a tetel with the other. Both fell for an instant; the tetel

dead, shot through the neck; but my ostrich, that was a fine cock bird, immediately recovered, and went off

with his wife as hard as their long legs could carry them. I was exceedingly disgusted; I had evidently fired

too far behind, not having allowed sufficiently for the rapidity of their speed. However, to make amends, I

snatched a spare singlerifle from Hassan, and knocked over another tetel that was the last of the herd. For

about an hour I attempted to follow up the tracks of the ostrich, but among the rocky hills this was

impossible. I therefore mounted Aggahr, and with my tracker, Taher Noor, and the Tokrooris as gunbearers,

I crossed the river and rode straight into the interior of the country. This was now thoroughly clear, as the fire

had consumed the grass, and had left the surface perfectly black. Upon the ashes, the track of every animal

I had ridden about four miles, followed, as usual, by two camels, with water, ropes, when we observed in a

perfectly open place, about three hundred yards from us, a rhinoceros standing alone. Fortunately, there was

little or no wind, or, as we were to windward of him, he would instantly have perceived us. The moment that

I saw him, I backed my horse and motioned to my people to retreat out of sight, which they did immediately.

Dismounting, I gave them the horse, and, accompanied only by Taher Noor, who carried one of my spare

rifles, I took a Reilly No. 10, and we made a circuit so as to obtain the wind, and to arrive upon the lee side of

the rhinoceros. This was quickly accomplished, but upon arrival at the spot, he was gone. The black ashes of

the recent fire showed his, footmarks as clearly as though printed in ink, and as these were very close

together, I knew that he had walked slowly off, and that he had not been disturbed, otherwise he would have

started quickly. He had gone down wind; it would, therefore, be impossible to follow upon his tracks. Our

only resource was to make another circuit, when, should his tracks not have crossed the arc, we should be

sure that he was to windward. Accordingly, we described half a circle of about five hundred yards. No tracks

had crossed our path; the ground was stony and full of hollows, in which grew a few scattered mimosas,

while the surface of the earth was covered in many places with dark brown masses of basalt rock. We

carefully stepped over this uneven ground, lest some falling stone might give the alarm, and we momentarily

expected to be in view of the enemy as we arrived at the edge of each successive hollow. Sure enough, as I

glanced down a sudden inclination covered with scorched mimosas, I perceived him standing on the slope

beneath a tree within fiveandthirty paces; this was close enough, and I took a steady shot behind the

shoulder. The instant that I fired, he whisked sharply round, and looked upon all sides for the cause of his

wound. I had taken the precaution to kneel down immediately after firing, and I now crouched close to a rock

about two feet high, with which my brown blouse matched exactly, as well as my skincovered huntingcap.

For a few moments he sought upon all sides for an enemy, during which I remained like a block of stone, but

with my finger on the trigger ready for the lefthand barrel should he charge. Taher Noor was lying on the

ground behind a stone about five yards from me, and the rhinoceros, having failed to discover us, walked

slowly past me within less than ten yards, and gained the summit of the inclination, where the ground was

level. As he passed, I reloaded quickly, and followed behind him. I saw that he was grievously wounded, as

he walked slowly, and upon arrival at a thicklyspreading mimosa he lay down. We now advanced towards

the tree, and I sent Taher Noor round to the other side in order to divert his attention should he be able to rise.

This he quickly proved by springing up as I advanced; accordingly, I halted until Taher Noor had taken his

stand about eighty paces beyond the tree. The rhinoceros now turned and faced him; this gave me the

opportunity that I had expected, and I ran quickly to within thirty yards, just in time to obtain a good shoulder

shot, as hearing my footsteps he turned towards me. Whiff! whiff! and he charged vigorously upon the shot;

but just as I prepared to fire the remaining barrel, he ran round and round in a narrow circle, uttering a short,

shrill cry, and fell heavily upon his side. I threw a stone at him, but he was already dead. Taher Noor returned

for the people, who shortly arrived with the camels. I found that the last bullet of quicksilver and lead from

my Reilly No. 10 had passed completely through the body, just behind the shoulder. The first shot was also a

mortal wound, having broken one rib upon either side, and passed through the posterior portion of the lungs;

the bullet was sticking under the skin on the opposite flank. The hide of the rhinoceros is exceedingly easy to

detach from the body, as the quality is so hard and stiff that it separates from the flesh like the peel of a ripe

In a couple of hours, the hide had been detached in sections for shields, and sufficient flesh was loaded upon

the camel, together with the viciouslooking head, which was secured by ropes upon the saddle. We were en

route for the camp, when we suddenly came upon fresh elephant tracks, upon following which, we

discovered, after about an hour's march, the spoor of horses on the same path. At once the truth flashed upon

me that, although Abou Do had promised to return direct home, he was somewhere in the neighbourhood,

and he and his two companions were disturbing the country by hunting. I at once gave up the idea of

following the elephants, as, in all probability, these aggageers had pursued them some hours ago. In a very

bad humour I turned my horse's head and took the direction for the Settite river. As we descended from the

hilly ground, after the ride of about four miles, we arrived upon an extensive plain, upon which I noticed a

number of antelopes galloping as though disturbed; a few moments later I observed three horsemen, a camel,

and several men on foot, steering in the same direction as ourselves for the river, but arriving from the high

ground upon which we had seen the elephants. These were soon distinguished, and I rode towards them with

Upon our arrival among them, they looked exceedingly sheepish, as they were caught in the act. Suspended

most carefully upon one side of the camel, in a network of ropes, was a fine young rhinoceros which they had

caught, having hunted the mother until she forsook the calf. Johann Schmidt had offered forty dollars for any

young animal of this species, for the Italian menageries, therefore to the aggageers this was a prize of great

value. I had hardly directed my attention to the calf, when I noticed a rope that was forcibly placed under the

throat to support the heavy head, the weight of which bearing upon the cord was evidently producing

strangulation. The tongue of the animal was protruding, and the tail stiffened and curled convulsively above

the back, while a twitching of the hind legs, that presently stretched to their full extent, persuaded me that the

rhinoceros was in his last gasp. As I looked intently at the animal, while my Tokrooris abused Abou Do for

having deceived us, I told the aggageers that they had not gained much by their hunt, as the rhinoceros was

dead. For a moment Abou Do smiled grimly, and, quite unconscious of the real fact, Suleiman replied, "It is

worth forty dollars to us." "Forty dollars for a dead rhinoceros calf!" I exclaimed; "who is fool enough to give

Abou Do glanced at the rhinoceros; his expression changed; he jumped from his horse, and, assisted by the

other aggageers, he made the camel kneel as quickly as possible, and they hastened to unstrap the unfortunate

little beast, which, upon being released and laid upon its side, convulsively stretched out its limbs, and lay a

strangled rhinoceros. The aggageers gazed with dismay at their departed prize, and, with superstitious fear,

they remounted their horses without uttering a word, and rode away; they attributed the sudden death of the

animal to the effect of my "evil eye." We turned towards our camp. My Tokrooris were delighted, and I heard

them talking and laughing together upon the subject, and remarking upon the extremely "bad eye" of their

On the rising of the sun next day we had struck our camp, and were upon the march to Delladilla. On the way

I shot a splendid buck mehedehet (R. Ellipsyprimna), and we arrived at our old quarters, finding no change

except that elephants had visited them in our absence, and our cleanly swept circus was covered with the

dung of a large herd. As this spot generally abounded with game, I took a singlebarrelled small rifle, while

the men were engaged in pitching the tent and arranging the camp, and with Taher Noor as my only

companion, I strolled through the forest, expecting to obtain a shot at a nellut within a quarter of a mile. I had

walked about that distance, and had just entered upon a small green glade, when I perceived, lying at full

length upon the sand, a large lion, who almost immediately sprang up, and at the same moment received a

bullet from my rifle as he bounded beneath a bush and crouched among some withered grass. I was unloaded,

when, to my astonishment, Taher Noor immediately drew his sword, and, with his shield in his left hand, he

advanced boldly towards the wounded lion. I reloaded as quickly as possible, just as this reckless Hamran had

arrived within springing distance of the lion, who positively slunk away and declined the fight; retreating into

the thick thorns, it disappeared before I could obtain a shot. Taher Noor explained, that his object in

advancing towards the lion was to attract its attention; he had expected that it would have remained in a

crouching position until I should have reloaded; but he ran the extreme risk of a charge, in which case he

would have fared badly with simple sword and shield. Being close to the tent, I returned, and, in addition to

my singlebarrelled rifle, I took my two Reillys No. 10, with Hassan and Hadji Ali. In company with Taher

Noor we searched throughout the bushes for the wounded lion, but without success. I now determined to

make a cast, hoping that we might succeed in starting some other animal that would give us a better chance.

The ground was sandy but firm, therefore we made no sound in walking, and, as the forest was bounded upon

two sides by the river, and separated from the main land by a ravine, the fire that had cleared the country of

grass had spared this portion, which was an asylum for all kinds of game, as it afforded pasturage and cover.

We had not continued our stroll for five minutes beyond the spot lately occupied by the lion, when we

suddenly came upon two bull buffaloes, who were lying beneath a thick bush on the edge of a small glade:

they sprang up as we arrived, and started off. I made a quick shot as they galloped across the narrow space,

and dropped one apparently dead with a Reilly No. 10. My Tokrooris were just preparing to run in and cut the

throat, as good Mussulmans, when the buffalo, that was not twenty yards distant, suddenly sprang to his feet

and faced us. In another moment, with a short grunt, he determined upon a charge, but hardly was he in his

first bound, when I fired the remaining barrel aimed at the point of the nose, as this was elevated to such a

degree that it would have been useless to have fired at the forehead. He fell stone dead at the shot; we threw

some clods of earth at him, but this time there was no mistake. Upon an examination of the body, we could

only find the marks of the first bullet that had passed through the neck; there was no other hole in the skin,

neither was there a sign upon the head or horns that he had been shot; at length I noticed blood issuing from

the nose, and we found that the bullet had entered the nostril; I inserted a ramrod as a probe, and we cut to the

extremity and found the bullet imbedded in the spine, which was shattered to pieces in a portion of the neck.

As a souvenir of this very curious shot, I preserved the skull. My men now flayed the buffalo and took a

portion of the meat, but I ordered them to leave the carcase as a bait for lions, with which this neighbourhood

abounded, although it was exceedingly difficult to see them, as they were concealed in the dense covert of

nabbuk bush. I left the buffalo, and strolled through the jungle towards the river. As I was leisurely walking

through alternate narrow glades and thick jungle, I heard a noise that sounded like the deep snort of the

hippopotamus. I approached the steep bank of the river, and crept carefully to the edge, expecting to see the

hippo as I peered over the brink. Instead of the hippopotamus, a fine lion and lioness were lying on the sand

about sixty yards to my left, at the foot of the bank. At the same instant they obtained our wind, and sprang

up the high bank into the thick jungle, without giving me a better chance than a quick shot through a bush as

I now returned home, determined to circumvent the lions if possible in this very difficult country. That night

we were serenaded by the roaring of these animals in all directions, one of them having visited our camp,

around which we discovered his footprints on the following morning. I accordingly took Taher Noor, with

Hadji Ali and Hassan, two of my trusty Tokrooris, and went straight to the spot where I had left the carcase of

the buffalo. As I had expected, nothing remainednot even a bone: the ground was much trampled, and

tracks of lions were upon the sand; but the body of the buffalo had been dragged into the thorny jungle. I was

determined, if possible, to get a shot, therefore I followed carefully the track left by the carcase, which had

formed a path in the withered grass. Unfortunately the lions had dragged the buffalo down wind; therefore,

after I had arrived within the thick nabbuk and high grass, I came to the conclusion that my only chance

would be to make a long circuit, and to creep up wind through the thorns, until I should be advised by my

nose of the position of the carcase, which would by this time lie in a state of putrefaction, and the lions would

most probably be with the body. Accordingly, I struck off to my left, and continuing straight forward for

some hundred yards, I again struck into the thick jungle, and came round to the wind. Success depended on

extreme caution, therefore I advised my three men to keep close behind me with the spare rifles, as I carried

my singlebarrelled Beattie. This rifle was extremely accurate, therefore I had chosen it for this close work,

when I expected to get a shot at the eye or forehead of a lion crouching in the bush. Softly and with difficulty

I crept forward, followed closely by my men; through the high withered grass, beneath the dense green

nabbuk bushes; peering through the thick covert, with the nerves turned up to full pitch, and the finger on the

trigger ready for any emergency. We had thus advanced for about half an hour, during which I frequently

applied my nose to within a foot of the ground to catch the scent, when a sudden puff of wind brought the

unmistakeable smell of decomposing flesh. For the moment I halted, and, looking round to my men, I made a

sign that we were near to the carcase, and that they were to be ready with the rifles. Again I crept gently

forward, bending, and sometimes crawling, beneath the thorns to avoid the slightest noise. As I approached,

the scent became stronger, until I at length felt that I must be close to the cause. This was highly exciting.

Fully prepared for a quick shot, I stealthily crept on. A tremendous roar in the dense thorns within a few feet

of me suddenly brought my rifle to the shoulder: almost in the same instant I observed the threequarter

figure of either a lion or a lioness within three yards of me, on the other side of the bush, under which I had

been creepingthe foliage concealed the head, but I could almost have touched the shoulder with my rifle.

Much depended upon the bullet; and I fired exactly through the shoulder. Another tremendous roar! and a

crash in the bushes as the animal made a bound forward, was succeeded immediately by a similar roar, as

another lion took the exact position of the last, and stood wondering at the report of the rifle, and seeking for

the cause of the intrusion. This was a grand lion with a shaggy mane; but I was unloaded, keeping my eyes

fixed on the beast, while I stretched my hand back for a spare rifle; the lion remained standing, but gazing up

wind with his head raised, snuffing in the air for a scent of the enemy. No rifle was put in my hand. I looked

back for an instant, and saw my Tokrooris faltering about five yards behind me. I looked daggers at them,

gnashing my teeth and shaking my fist. They saw the lion, and Taher Noor snatching a rifle from Hadji Ali,

was just about to bring it, when Hassan, ashamed, ran forwardthe lion disappeared at the same moment!

Never was such a fine chance lost through the indecision of the gunbearers! I made a vow never to carry a

singlebarrelled rifle again when hunting large game. If I had had my dear little Fletcher 24, I should have

However, there was not much time for reflectionwhere was the first lion? Some remains of the buffalo lay

upon my right, and I expected to find the lion most probably crouching in the thorns somewhere near us.

Having reloaded, I took one of my Reilly No. 10 rifles and listened attentively for a sound. Presently I heard

within a few yards a low growl. Taher Noor drew his sword, and, with his shield before him, he searched for

the lion, while I crept forward towards the sound, which was again repeated. A low roar, accompanied by a

rush in the jungle, showed us a glimpse of the lion, as he bounded off within ten or twelve yards: but I had no

chance to fire. Again the low growl was repeated, and upon quietly creeping towards the spot, I saw a

splendid animal crouched upon the ground among the withered and broken grass. The lioness lay dying with

the bullet wound in the shoulder. Occasionally, in her rage, she bit her own paw violently, and then struck

and clawed the ground. A pool of blood lay by her side. She was about ten yards from us, and I instructed my

men to throw a clod of earth at her (there were no stones), to prove whether she could rise, while I stood

ready with the rifle. She merely replied with a dull roar, and I terminated her misery by a ball through the

head. She was a beautiful animal; the patch of the bullet was sticking in the wound; she was shot through

both shoulders, and as we were not far from the tent, I determined to have her brought to camp upon a camel

as an offering to my wife. Accordingly I left my Tokrooris, while I went with Taher Noor to fetch a camel.

On our road through the thick jungle, I was startled by a rush close to me: for the moment I thought it was a

lion, but almost at the same instant I saw a fine nellut dashing away before me, and I killed it immediately

with a bullet through the back of the neck. This was great luck, and we now required two camels, as in two

We remained for some time at our delightful camp at Delladilla. Every day, from sunrise to sunset, I was

either on foot or in the saddle, without rest, except upon Sundays, which I generally passed at home, with the

relaxation of fishing in the beautiful river Settite. There was an immense quantity of large game, and I had

made a mixed bag of elephants, hippopotami, buffaloes, rhinoceros, giraffes, and great numbers of the large

antelopes. Lions, although numerous, were exceedingly difficult to bag; there was no chance but the extreme

risk of creeping through the thickest jungle. Upon two or three occasions I had shot them by crawling into

their very dens, where they had dragged their prey; and I must acknowledge that they were much more

frightened of me than I was of them. I had generally obtained a most difficult and unsatisfactory shot at close

quarters; sometimes I rolled them over with a mortal wound, and they disappeared to die in impenetrable

jungle; but at all times fortune was on my side. On moonlight nights I generally lay in wait for these animals

with great patience; sometimes I shot hippopotami, and used a hindquarter as a bait for lions, while I

watched in ambush at about twenty yards distance; but the hyaenas generally appeared like evil spirits, and

dragged away the bait before the lions had a chance. I never fired at these scavengers, as they are most useful

creatures, and are contemptible as game. My Arabs had made their fortune, as I had given them all the meat

of the various animals, which they dried and transported to Geera, together with fat, hides, It would be

wearying to enumerate the happy huntingdays passed throughout this country. We were never ill for a

moment; although the thermometer was seldom below 88 degrees during the day, the country was healthy, as

it was intensely dry, and therefore free from malaria: at night the thermometer averaged 70 degrees, which

As our camp was full of meat, either dried or in the process of drying in festoons upon the trees, we had been

a great attraction to the beasts of prey, who constantly prowled around our thorn fence during the night. One

night in particular a lion attempted to enter, but had been repulsed by the Tokrooris, who pelted him with

firebrands; my people woke me up and begged me to shoot him, but, as it was perfectly impossible to fire

correctly through the hedge of thorns, I refused to be disturbed, but I promised to hunt for him on the

following day. Throughout the entire night the lion prowled around the camp, growling and uttering his

peculiar guttural sigh. Not one of my people slept, as they declared he would bound into the camp and take

somebody, unless they kept up the watchfires and drove him away with brands. The next day, before

sunrise, I called Hassan and Hadji Ali, whom I lectured severely upon their cowardice on a former occasion,

and I received their promise to follow me to death. I entrusted them with my two Reillys No. 10; and with my

little Fletcher in hand, I determined to spend the whole day in searching every thicket of the forest for lions,

as I felt convinced that the animal that had disturbed us during the night was concealed somewhere within the

The whole day passed fruitlessly; I had crept through the thickest thorns in vain; having abundance of meat, I

had refused the most tempting shots at buffaloes and large antelopes, as I had devoted myself exclusively to

lions. I was much disappointed, as the evening had arrived without a shot having been fired, and as the sun

had nearly set, I wandered slowly towards home. Passing through alternate open glades of a few yards width,

hemmed in on all sides by thick jungle, I was carelessly carrying my rifle upon my shoulder, as I pushed my

way through the opposing thorns, when a sudden roar, just before me, at once brought the rifle upon full

cock, and I saw a magnificent lion standing in the middle of the glade, about ten yards from me: he had been

lying on the ground, and had started to his feet upon hearing me approach through the jungle. For an instant

he stood in an attitude of attention, as we were hardly visible; but at the same moment I took a quick but sure

shot with the little Fletcher. He gave a convulsive bound, but rolled over backwards: before he could recover

himself, I fired the lefthand barrel. It was a glorious sight. I had advanced a few steps into the glade, and

Hassan had quickly handed me a spare rifle, while Taher Noor stood by me sword in hand. The lion in the

greatest fury, with his shaggy mane bristled in the air, roared with deathlike growls, as openmouthed he

endeavoured to charge upon us; but he dragged his hindquarters upon the ground, and I saw immediately

that the little Fletcher had broken his spine. In his tremendous exertions to attack, he rolled over and over,

gnashing his horrible jaws, and tearing holes in the sandy ground at each blow of his tremendous paws, that

would have crushed a man's skull like an eggshell. Seeing that he was hors de combat, I took it coolly, as it

was already dusk, and the lion having rolled into a dark and thick bush, I thought it would be advisable to

defer the final attack, as he would be dead before morning. We were not ten minutes' walk from the camp, at

which we quickly arrived, and my men greatly rejoiced at the discomfiture of their enemy, as they were

On the following morning, before sunrise, I started with nearly all my people and a powerful camel, with the

intention of bringing the lion home entire. I rode my horse Tetel, who had frequently shown great courage,

Upon arrival near the spot which we supposed to have been the scene of the encounter, we were rather

puzzled, as there was nothing to distinguish the locality; one place exactly resembled another, as the country

was flat and sandy, interspersed with thick jungle of green nabbuk; we accordingly spread out to beat for the

lion. Presently Hadji Ali cried out: "There he lies dead!" and I immediately rode to the spot, together with the

people. A tremendous roar greeted us, as the lion started to his forefeet, and with his beautiful mane erect,

and his great hazel eyes flashing fire, he gave a succession of deep short roars, and challenged us to fight.

This was a grand picture; he looked like a true lord of the forest, but I pitied the poor brute, as he was

helpless, and, although his spirit was game to the last, his strength was paralysed by a broken back.

It was a glorious opportunity for the horse. At the first unexpected roar, the camel had bolted with its rider;

the horse had for a moment started on one side, and the men had scattered; but in an instant I had reined Tetel

up, and I now rode straight towards the lion, who courted the encounter about twenty paces distant. I halted

exactly opposite the noblelooking beast, who, seeing me in advance of the party, increased his rage, and

growled deeply, fixing his glance upon the horse. I now patted Tetel on the neck, and spoke to him coaxingly;

he gazed intently at the lion, erected his mane, and snorted, but showed no signs of retreat. "Bravo! old boy!"

I said, and, encouraging him by caressing his neck with my hand, I touched his flank gently with my heel; I

let him just feel my hand upon the rein, and with a "Come along, old lad," Tetel slowly but resolutely

advanced step by step towards the infuriated lion, that greeted him with continued growls. The horse several

times snorted loudly, and stared fixedly at the terrible face before him; but as I constantly patted and coaxed

him, he did not refuse to advance. I checked him when within about six yards from the lion. This would have

made a magnificent picture, as the horse, with astounding courage, faced the lion at bay; both animals kept

their eyes fixed upon each other, the one beaming with rage, the other with cool determination. This was

enoughI dropped the reins upon his neck; it was a signal that Tetel perfectly understood, and he stood firm

as a rock; for he knew that I was about to fire. I took aim at the head of the glorious but distressed lion, and a

bullet from the little Fletcher dropped him dead. Tetel never flinched at a shot. I now dismounted, and having

patted and coaxed the horse, I led him up to the body of the lion, which I also patted, and then gave my hand

to the horse to smell. He snorted once or twice, and as I released my hold of the reins, and left him entirely

free, he slowly lowered his head, and sniffed the mane of the dead lion: he then turned a few paces upon one

side, and commenced eating the withered grass beneath the nabbuk bushes. My Arabs were perfectly

delighted with this extraordinary instance of courage exhibited by the horse. I had known that the beast was

disabled, but Tetel had advanced boldly towards the angry jaws of a lion that appeared about to spring. The

camel was now brought to the spot and blindfolded, while we endeavoured to secure the lion upon its back.

As the camel knelt, it required the united exertions of eight men, including myself, to raise the ponderous

Although so active and catlike in its movements, a fullgrown lion weighs about five hundred and fifty

pounds. Having secured it, we shortly arrived in camp; the coup d'oeil was beautiful, as the camel entered the

inclosure with the shaggy head and massive paws of the dead lion hanging upon one flank, while the tail

nearly descended to the ground upon the opposite side. It was laid at full length before my wife, to whom the

claws were dedicated as a trophy to be worn around the neck as a talisman. Not only are the claws prized by

the Arabs, but the moustache of the lion is carefully preserved and sewn in a leather envelope, to be worn as

an amulet; such a charm is supposed to protect the wearer from the attacks of wild animals.

In all probability, this was the lion that was in the habit of visiting our camp, as from that date, although the

roars of such animals were our nightly music, we were never afterwards visited so closely.

As game was plentiful, the lions were exceedingly fat, and we preserved a large quantity of this for our

lamps. When it was boiled down it was well adapted for burning, as it remained nearly liquid.

We had a large supply of various kinds of fat, including that of elephants, hippopotami, lions, and rhinoceros;

but our stock of soap was exhausted, therefore I determined to convert a quantity of our grease into that very

Soapboiling is not so easy as may be imagined; it requires not only much attention, but the quality is

dependent upon the proper mixture of the alkalis. Sixty parts of potash and forty of lime are, I believe, the

proportions for common soap. I had neither lime nor potash, but I shortly procured both. The hegleek tree

(Balanites Egyptiaca) was extremely rich in potash; therefore I burned a large quantity, and made a strong ley

with the ashes; this I concentrated by boiling. There was no limestone; but the river produced a plentiful

supply of large oystershells, that, if burned, would yield excellent lime. Accordingly I constructed a kiln,

with the assistance of the white ants. The country was infested with these creatures, which had erected their

dwellings in all directions; these were cones from six to ten feet high, formed of clay so thoroughly cemented

by a glutinous preparation of the insects, that it was harder than sunbaked brick. I selected an eggshaped

hill, and cut off the top, exactly as we take off the slice from an egg. My Tokrooris then worked hard, and

with a hoe and their lances, they hollowed it out to the base, in spite of the attacks of the ants, which punished

the legs of the intruders considerably. I now made a draughthole from the outside base, at right angles with

the bottom of the hollow cone. My kiln was perfect. I loaded it with wood, upon which I piled about six

bushels of oystershells, which I then covered with fuel, and kept it burning for twentyfour hours. This

produced excellent lime, and I commenced my soapboiling. We possessed an immense copper pot of

Egyptian manufacture, in addition to a large and deep copper basin called a "teshti." These would contain

about ten gallons. The ley having been boiled down to great strength, I added a quantity of lime, and the

necessary fat. It required ten hours' boiling, combined with careful management of the fire, as it would

frequently ascend like foam, and overflow the edge of the utensils. However, at length, having been

constantly stirred, it turned to soap. Before it became cold, I formed it into cakes and balls with my hands,

and the result of the manufacture was a weight of about forty pounds of most excellent soap, of a very

sporting description, "Savon a la bete feroce." We thus washed with rhinoceros soap; our lamp was trimmed

with oil of lions; our butter for cooking purposes was the fat of hippopotami, while our pomade was made

from the marrow of buffaloes and antelopes, scented with the blossoms of mimosas. We were entirely

independent, as our whole party had subsisted upon the produce of the rod and the rifle.

We were now destined to be deprived of two members of the party. Mahomet had become simply unbearable,

and he was so impertinent that I was obliged to take a thin cane from one of the Arabs and administer a little

physical advice. An evil spirit possessed the man, and he bolted off with some of the camel men who were

* Some months afterwards he found his way to Khartoum, where he was imprisoned by the Governor for

having deserted. He subsequently engaged himself as a soldier in a slavehunting expedition on the White

Nile; and some years later, on our return from the Albert N'yanza, we met him in Shooa, on 3 degrees north

latitude. He had repentedhardships and discipline had effected a changeand, like the prodigal son, he

returned. I forgave him, and took him with us to Khartoum, where we left him a sadder but a wiser man. He

had many near relations during his long journey, all of whom had stolen some souvenir of their cousin, and

left him almost naked. He also met Achmet, his "mothers brother's cousin's sister's mother's son," who turned

up after some years at Gondokoro as a slavehunter; he had joined an expedition, and, like all other

blackguards, he had chosen the White Nile regions for his career. He was the proprietor of twenty slaves, he

had assisted in the murder of a number of unfortunate negroes, and he was a prosperous and respectable

Our great loss was Barrake. She had persisted in eating the fruit of the hegleek, although she had suffered

from dysentery upon several occasions. She was at length attacked with congestion of the liver. My wife took

the greatest care of her, and for weeks she had given her the entire produce of the goats, hoping that milk

would keep up her strength; but she died after great suffering, and we buried the poor creature, and moved

HAVING explored the Settite into the gorge of the mountain chain of Abyssinia, we now turned due south

from our camp of Delladilla, and at a distance of twelve miles we reached the river Royan. The intervening

country was the high and flat tableland of rich soil, that characterises the course of the Settite and Atbara

rivers; this land was covered with hegleek trees of considerable size, and the descent to the Royan was

through a valley, torn and washed by the rains, similar in appearance to that of the Settite, but upon a small

Descending the rugged ground, we arrived at the margin of the river. At this season (February) the bed was

perfectly dry sand, about ninety yards from bank to bank, and the highwater mark upon the perpendicular

sides was a little above nine feet deep. The inclination was extremely rapid: thus the Royan during the rainy

season must be a most frightful torrent, that supplies a large body of water to the Settite, but which runs dry

We descended the bank in a spot that had been broken down by elephants, and continued our course up

stream along the sandy bed, which formed an excellent road. The surface was imprinted with the footsteps of

every variety of game, and numerous holes about two feet deep had been dug in the sand by the antelopes and

baboons to procure water. Great numbers of the oterop, a small reddishbrown antelope without horns

(Calotragus Montanus) were drinking at these little wateringplaces, and did not appear to heed us. We

disturbed many nellut and tetel upon the banks, and after having marched about four miles along the river's

bed, we halted at a beautiful open forest of large trees at the junction of Hor Mai Gubba. This was a

considerable torrent, which is tributary to the Royan; at this spot it had cut through a white sandstone cliff,

about eighty feet perpendicular: thus upon either side it was walled in. The word Gubba is Abyssinian for the

nabbuk, therefore the torrent was the Nabbuk River: this flowed past the village of Mai Gubba, which is the

headquarters of Mek Nimmur, from which we were not twentyfive miles distant. We camped in a forest of

the largest trees that we had as yet seen in Africa, and as we had observed the fresh tracks of horses, on the

sand, some of my Arabs went in search of the aggageers of Taher Sheriff's party, whom they had expected to

meet at this point. While they were gone, I took a few men to beat the low jungle within the forest for

francolin partridge, numbers of which I had seen running through the covert. I went up the dry bed of the

river at the junction of the Hor Gubba, while they drove towards me, and I was compelled to fire as fast as I

could load, as these beautiful birds flew across the ravine. I shot five brace almost immediately. There is no

better game bird than the francolin: the flesh is white, and of a most delicate and rich flavour. My shots had

attracted the aggageers, and shortly after my return to camp they arrived with my Arabs, as they had been

stationed on the opposite side of the Royan in a forest within a quarter of a mile of us. Taher Sheriff was

delighted to see us free from the company of Abou Do. His party had killed several elephants, and had

captured two young ones; also, two young rhinoceroses, three giraffes, and several young antelopes; these

were to be sold to Johann Schmidt, who contracted to supply the Italian agent at Cassala. I agreed to have a

long day's hunt with Taher Sheriff; we were to start before sunrise, as he wished to ride to a spot about

twentyfive miles distant, up the course of the Royan, that was a favourite resort for elephants.

That evening we had a delicious dinner of francolin partridges. This species is rather larger than the French

partridge: it is dark brown, mottled with black feathers, with a red mark around the eye, and double spurs.

There was a small but deep pool of water in the bed of the river, beneath the high bank about two hundred

paces from our camp; this was a mere hole of about twenty feet square, and I expected that large game might

come to drink during the night. Accordingly, I determined to watch for elephants, as their tracks were

numerous throughout the bed of the river. My wife and two gunbearers accompanied me, and we sat behind

an immense tree that grew on the bank, exactly about the drinking place. I watched for hours, until I fell

asleep, as did my men likewise: my wife alone was awake, and a sudden tug at my sleeve attracted my

attention. The moon was bright, and she had heard a noise upon the branches of the tree above us: there were

no leaves, therefore I quickly observed some large animal upon a thick bough. My Tokrooris had awoke, and

they declared it to be a baboon. I knew this to be impossible, as the baboon is never solitary, and I was just

preparing to fire, when down jumped a large leopard within a few feet of us, and vanished before I had time

to shoot. It must have winded our party, and quietly ascended the tree to reconnoitre. Nothing but hyaenas

According to my agreement, I went to the aggageers' camp at 5 A.M. with Hadji Ali and Hassan, both

mounted on my two horses, Aggahr and Gazelle, while I rode Tetel. Taher Sheriff requested me not to shoot

at anything, as the shots might alarm and scare away elephants; therefore I merely carried my little Fletcher,

in case of meeting the Base, who hunted in this country. The aggageers mounted their horses; each man

carried an empty waterskin slung to his saddle, to be filled at the river should it be necessary to quit its

For seven hours we rode, sometimes along the bed of the river between lofty overhanging rocks, or through

borders of fine foresttrees; at other times we cut off a bend of the stream, and rode for some miles through

beautiful country diversified with hills, and abounding in enormous baobabtrees (Adansonia digitata). At

length we entered the mountains at the foot of the great chain. Here the views were superb. The Royan was

no longer a stream of ninety or a hundred yards in width, but it was reduced to a simple mountain torrent

about forty yards across, blocked in many places by masses of rock, while at others it had formed broad

pools, all of which were now perfectly dry, and exhibited a bed of glaring sand. Numerous mountain ravines

joined the main channel, and as the inclination was extremely rapid, there could be little doubt that the violent

storms of the rainy season, descending from the great chain of mountains, would, by concentrating in the

Royan, suddenly give birth to an impetuous torrent, that would materially affect the volume of the Settite.

The entire country bore witness to the effect of violent rains, as the surface was torn and waterworn.

We had ridden nearly thirty miles, having seen large quantities of game, including antelopes, buffaloes,

giraffes, and rhinoceroses, none of which we had hunted, as we were in search of elephants. This was the

They now turned away from the Royan, and descended a sandy valley at the foot of the mountains, the

bottom of which appeared to have been overflowed during the wet season. Here were large strips of forest,

and numerous sandy watercourses, along the dry bed of which we quickly discovered the deep tracks of

elephants. They had been digging fresh holes in the sand in search of water, in which welcome basins we

found a good supply; we dismounted, and rested the horses for half an hour, while the hunters followed up

the tracks on the bed of the stream. Upon their return, they reported the elephants as having wandered off

upon the rocky ground, that rendered further tracking impossible. We accordingly remounted, and, upon

arrival at the spot where they had lost the tracks, we continued along the bed of the stream. We had ridden

about a mile, and were beginning to despair, when suddenly we turned a sharp angle in the watercourse, and

Taher Sheriff, who was leading, immediately reined in his horse, and backed him towards the party. I

followed his example, and we were at once concealed by the sharp bend of the river. He now whispered, that

a bull elephant was drinking from a hole it had scooped in the sand, not far round the corner. Without the

slightest confusion, the hunters at once fell quietly into their respective places, Taher Sheriff leading, while I

followed closely in the line, with my Tokrooris bringing up the rear; we were a party of seven horses.

Upon turning the corner, we at once perceived the elephant, that was still drinking. It was a fine bull; the

enormous ears were thrown forward, as the head was lowered in the act of drawing up the water through the

trunk; these shaded the eyes, and, with the wind favourable, we advanced noiselessly upon the sand to within

twenty yards before we were perceived. The elephant then threw up its head, and, with the ears flapping

forward, it raised its trunk for an instant, and then slowly, but easily, ascended the steep bank, and retreated.

The aggageers now halted for about a minute to confer together, and then followed in their original order up

the crumbled bank. We were now on most unfavourable ground; the fire that had cleared the country we had

hitherto traversed had been stopped by the bed of the torrent. We were thus plunged at once into withered

grass above our heads, unless we stood in the stirrups; the ground was strewed with fragments of rock, and

altogether it was illadapted for riding. However, Taher Sheriff broke into a trot, followed by the entire party,

as the elephant was not in sight. We ascended a hill, and when near the summit, we perceived the elephant

about eighty yards ahead. It was looking behind during its retreat, by swinging its huge head from side to

side, and upon seeing us approach, it turned suddenly round and halted. "Be ready, and take care of the

rocks!" said Taher Sheriff, as I rode forward by his side. Hardly had he uttered these words of caution, when

the bull gave a vicious jerk with its head, and with a shrill scream it charged down upon us with the greatest

fury. Away we all went, helter skelter, through the dry grass, which whistled in my ears, over the hidden

rocks, at full gallop, with the elephant tearing after us for about a hundred and eighty yards at a tremendous

pace. Tetel was a surefooted horse, and, being unshod, he never slipped upon the stones. Thus, as we all

scattered in different directions, the elephant became confused, and relinquished the chase; it had been very

near me at one time, and in such ground I was not sorry when it gave up the hunt. We now quickly united,

and again followed the elephant, that had once more retreated. Advancing at a canter, we shortly came in

view. Upon seeing the horses, the bull deliberately entered a stronghold composed of rocky and uneven

ground, in the clefts of which grew thinly a few leafless trees, the thickness of a man's leg. It then turned

Now came the tug of war! Taher Sheriff came close to me and said, "You had better shoot the elephant, as we

shall have great difficulty in this rocky ground:" this I declined, as I wished to end the fight as it had been

commenced, with the sword; and I proposed that he should endeavour to drive the animal to more favourable

ground. "Never mind," replied Taher, "Inshallah (please God) he shall not beat us." He now advised me to

The elephant stood facing us like a statue; it did not move a muscle beyond a quick and restless action of the

eyes, that were watching all sides. Taher Sheriff and his youngest brother Ibrahim now separated, and each

took opposite sides of the elephant, and then joined each other about twenty yards behind it; I accompanied

them, until Taher advised me to keep about the same distance upon the left flank. My Tokrooris kept apart

from the scene, as they were not required. In front of the elephant were two aggageers, one of whom was the

renowned Roder Sheriff, with the withered arm. All being ready for action, Roder now rode slowly towards

the head of the cunning old bull, who was quietly awaiting an opportunity to make certain of some one who

Roder Sheriff rode a bay mare, that, having been thoroughly trained to these encounters, was perfect at her

work. Slowly and coolly she advanced towards her wary antagonist, until within about eight or nine yards of

the elephant's head; the creature never moved, and the mise en scene was beautiful; not a word was spoken,

and we kept our places amidst utter stillness, which was at length broken by a snort from the mare, who

One more pace forward, and Roder sat coolly upon his mare, with his eyes fixed upon those of the elephant.

For an instant I saw the white of the eye nearest to me "Look out, Roder! he's coming!" I exclaimed. With a

Round went the mare as though upon a pivot, and away, over rocks and stones, flying like a gazelle, with the

monkeylike form of little Roder Sheriff leaning forward, and looking over his left shoulder as the elephant

For a moment I thought he must be caught. Had the mare stumbled, all were lost; but she gained in the race

after a few quick bounding strides, and Roder, still looking behind him, kept his distance so close to the

Taher Sheriff and his brother Ibrahim swept down like falcons in the rear. In full speed they dexterously

avoided the trees, until they arrived upon open ground, when they dashed up close to the hindquarters of the

furious elephant, who, maddened with the excitement, heeded nothing but Roder and his mare, that were

almost within its grasp. When close to the tail of the elephant, Taher Sheriff's sword flashed from its sheath,

as grasping his trusty blade he leapt nimbly to the ground, while Ibrahim caught the reins of his horse; two or

three bounds on foot, with the sword clutched in both hands, and he was close behind the elephant; a bright

glance shone like lightning, as the sun struck upon the descending steel; this was followed by a dull crack, as

the sword cut through skin and sinews, and settled deep in the bone, about twelve inches above the foot. At

the next stride, the elephant halted dead short in the midst of its tremendous charge. Taher had jumped

quickly on one side, and had vaulted into the saddle with his naked sword in hand. At the same moment,

Roder, who had led the chase, turned sharp round, and again faced the elephant as before; stooping quickly

from the saddle, he picked up from the ground a handful of dirt, which he threw into the face of the

viciouslooking animal, that once more attempted to rush upon him. It was impossible! the foot was

dislocated, and turned up in front like an old shoe. In an instant Taher was once more on foot, and again the

sharp sword slashed the remaining leg. The great bull elephant could not move! the first cut with the sword

had utterly disabled it; the second was its death blow; the arteries of the leg were divided, and the blood

spouted in jets from the wounds. I wished to terminate its misery by a bullet behind the ear, but Taher Sheriff

begged me not to fire, as the elephant would quickly bleed to death without pain, and an unnecessary shot

might attract the Base, who would steal the flesh and ivory during our absence. We were obliged to return

immediately to our far distant camp, and the hunters resolved to accompany their camels to the spot upon the

following day. We turned our horses' heads, and rode direct towards home, which we did not reach until

The hunting of Taher Sheriff and his brothers was superlatively beautiful; with an immense amount of dash,

there was a cool, sportsmanlike manner in their mode of attack, that far excelled the impetuous and reckless

onset of Abou Do; it was difficult to decide which to admire the most, whether the coolness and courage of

him who led the elephant, or the extraordinary skill and activity of the aggahr who dealt the fatal blow.

On the following day, the hunters started to the dead elephant with camels and sacks, but they returned at

night thoroughly disgusted; the nimble Base had been before them, most probably attracted to the carcase by

the cloud of vultures that had gathered in the air. Nothing remained but the bones and skull of the elephant,

the flesh and the ivory had been stolen. The tracks of a great number of men were left upon the ground, and

the aggageers were fortunate to return without an attack from overwhelming numbers.

After hunting and exploring for some days in this neighbourhood, I determined to follow the bed of the

Royan to its junction with the Settite. We started at daybreak, and after a long march along the sandy bed,

hemmed in by high banks, or by precipitous cliffs of sandstone, we arrived at the junction; this was a curious

and frightful spot during the rainy season. The entire course of the Royan was extremely rapid, but at this

extremity it entered a rocky pass between two hills, and leapt in a succession of grand falls into a circular

basin of about four hundred yards diameter. This peculiar basin was surrounded by high cliffs, covered with

trees; to the left was an island formed by a rock about sixty feet high; at the foot was a deep and narrow gorge

through which the Settite river made its exit from the circle. This large river entered the basin through a rocky

gap, at right angles with the rush of water from the great falls of the Royan, and as both streams issued from

gorges which accelerated their velocity to the highest degree, their junction formed a tremendous whirlpool:

thus, the basin which was now dry, with the exception of the single contracted stream of the Settite, was in

the rainy season a most frightful scene of giddy waters. The sides of this basin were, for about fifty feet from

the bottom, sheeted with white sand that had been left there by the centrifugal force of the revolving waters;

the funnelshaped reservoir had its greatest depth beneath the mass of rock that formed a barrier before the

mouth of the exit. From the appearance of the highwater mark upon the rock, it was easy to ascertain the

approximate depth when the flood was at its maximum. We pitched our camp on the slope above the basin,

and for several days I explored the bed of the river, which was exceedingly interesting at this dry season,

when all the secrets of its depths were exposed. In many places, the rocks that choked its bed for a depth of

thirty and forty feet in the narrow passes, had been worked into caverns by the constant attrition of the rolling

pebbles. In one portion of the river, the bottom was almost smooth, as though it had been paved with

flagstones; this was formed by a calcareous sediment from the water, which had hardened into stone; in some

places this natural pavement had been broken up into large slabs by the force of the current, where it had been

undermined. This cement appeared to be the same that had formed the banks of conglomerate, which in some

places walled in the river for a depth of ten or fifteen feet, with a concrete of rounded pebbles of all sizes

I fired the grass on the west bank of the Royan, and the blaze extended with such rapidity, that in a few hours

many miles of country were entirely cleared. On the following morning, the country looked as though

To my astonishment there were the fresh tracks of a rhinoceros within a quarter of a mile of the camp: this

animal must have concealed itself in the bed of the Royan during the fire, and had wandered forth when it had

passed. I followed up the tracks with Bacheet and two of my Tookrooris. In less than half a mile from the

spot, I found it lying down behind a bush, and creeping under cover of an anthill, I shot it through the

shoulder with a Reilly No. 10; it immediately galloped off, but after a run of a couple of hundred yards it lay

down on the edge of thick thorny jungle that bordered the margin of the Royan. I waited, in the expectation

that it would shortly die, but it suddenly rose, and walked slowly into the thorns. Determined to cut off its

retreat, I pushed through the bushes, intending to reach the dry bed of the Royan and shoot the rhinoceros as

it crossed from the narrow belt of the jungle, into which it had retreated; but I had hardly reached half way,

when I heard a sound in the bush upon my right, and I saw the wounded beast coming straight for our

position, but evidently unconscious of our presence, as we were to leeward. I immediately crouched down, as

did my men likewise, lest the animal should observe us. Slowly, but surely, it came on exactly towards us,

until it was at last so near as to be unpleasant: I looked behind me, and I saw by the expression of my men

that they were thinking of retreat. I merely shook my fist, and frowned at them to give them confidence, and I

waited patiently for my opportunity. It was becoming too ridiculous; the rhinoceros was within five or six

yards, and was slowly but steadily advancing direct upon us. At the next step that he made, I raised my rifle

gently to my shoulder, and whistled sharply: in an instant it tossed its head up, and seeing nothing in front, as

my clothes matched with the leafless bushes, it turned its head to the left, and I immediately pulled the

trigger. It fell as though smitten by a sledge hammer, and it lay struggling on the ground. Bacheet sprang

forward, and with an Arab sword he cut the hamstring of one leg. To the astonishment of us all, the

rhinoceros jumped up, and on three legs it sprang quickly round and charged Bacheet, who skipped into the

bushes, while I ran alongside the rhinoceros as it attempted to follow him, and, with Fletcher No. 24, I fired

through the shoulder, by placing the muzzle within a yard of the animal. It fell dead to this shot, which was

another feather in the cap of the good little rifle. The skull of the rhinoceros is very curiously shaped; I had

fired for the temple, and had struck the exact point at which I had aimed, but, instead of hitting the brain, the

bullet had smashed the joint of the jaw, in which it stuck fast. I never have been able to understand why that

powerful rifle was thus baffled, unless there had been some error in the charge of powder. This rhinoceros

had no ears, they had been bitten off close to the head by another of the same species, while fighting; this

From this point I traversed the country in all directions; upon one occasion I took a large supply of water, and

penetrated into the very heart of the Base, half way between the Settite and the river Gash or Mareb, near the

base of the mountain chain; but, although the redoubtable natives were occasionally seen, they were as shy as

Having explored the entire country, and enjoyed myself thoroughly, I was now determined to pay our

promised visit to Mek Nimmur. Since our departure from the Egyptian territory, his country had been

invaded by a large force, according to orders sent from the GovernorGeneral of the Soudan. Mek Nimmur

as usual retreated to the mountains, but Mai Gubba and a number of his villages were utterly destroyed by the

Egyptians. He would, under these circumstances, be doubly suspicious of strangers.

My camelmen had constantly brought me the news on their return from Geera with corn,* and they

considered that it was unsafe to visit Mek Nimmur after his defeat, as he might believe me to be a spy from

the Egyptians; he was a great friend of Theodorus, king of Abyssinia, and as at that time he was on good

* Among other news I was glad to hear that my patient Jali could walk without difficulty.

We arrived at Ombrega, but, instead of camping among the thick jungle as formerly, we bivouacked under

four splendid tamarind trees that formed a clump among the rocks on the left bank of the river, and which

shaded a portion of its sandy bed; this was a delightful restingplace. We were now only one day from Geera,

and we sent a messenger to the sheik of the Hamrans, who shortly returned with a young girl of about

seventeen as a corngrinder in the place of Barrake; she was hired from her owner at a dollar per month.

My camelmen had determined not to proceed to Mek Nimmur's country, as they were afraid that their

camels might be stolen by his people; they therefore came to me one evening, and coolly declared that they

should return to Geera, as it would be folly to tempt Mek Nimmur. It was in vain that I protested, and

reminded them that I had engaged them to accompany me throughout the exploration. They were afraid of

losing their camels, and nothing would satisfy them; they declared that they required no wages, as the meat

and hide, they had received were sufficient for their services, but through Mek Nimmur's country they were

determined not to go. Taher Noor was the only man who was willing, but he had no camel. We had

constructed a fence of thorns around our camp, in which the camels were now reposing, and, as the argument

had become hot, the Arabs expressed their determination of starting homewards that very instant, and we

were to be left alone, unless they could persuade other men of their tribe to join us with their animals.

Accordingly, they at once proceeded to saddle their camels for an immediate start. Without saying another

word, I quietly took my little Fletcher rifle, and cocked both barrels as I sat within ten yards of the exit from

the camp. The men were just ready to depart, and several had mounted their camels. "Good bye," I said; "give

my salaams to the sheik when you arrive at Geera; but the first camel that passes the zareeba (camp) I shall

shoot through the head." They had heard the sharp click of the locks, and they remembered the firing of the

grass on a former occasion when I had nearly burnt the camp;not a camel moved. My Tokrooris and Taher

Noor now came forward as mediators, and begged me not to shoot the camels. As I had the rifle pointed, I

replied to this demand conditionally, that the Arabs should dismount and unsaddle immediately: this led to a

parley, and I agreed to become responsible for the value of the camels should they be stolen in Mek

On March 16th, the day following this argument, as we were sitting in the evening beneath our trees in the

river's bed, I suddenly heard the rattle of loose stones, and immediately after, a man on a white hygeen

appeared from the jungle on our side of the river, followed quickly by a string of Arabs, all well mounted,

who silently followed in single file towards the ford. They had not noticed us, as we were close to the high

rocky bank upon their left, in the deep shade of the tamarind trees. I counted twentythree; their shields and

swords were slung upon their hygeens, and, as their clothes were beautifully clean, they had evidently started

The leader had reached the ford without observing us, as in this wild spot he had expected no one, and the

whole party were astonished and startled when I suddenly addressed them with a loud "Salaam aleikum"

(peace be with you). At first they did not reply, but as I advanced alone, their leader also advanced from his

party, and we met half way. These were a troop of Mek Nimmur's people on a foray. I quickly explained who

I was, and I invited him to come and drink coffee beneath the shade in our camp. Taher Noor now joined us,

and confidence having been established, the leader ordered his party to cross the ford and to unsaddle on the

opposite side of the river, while he accompanied me to our camp. At first he was rather suspicious, but a

present of a new tarboosh (cap), and a few articles of trifling value, quickly reassured him, and he promised

to be our guide to Mek Nimmur in about a couple of days, upon his return from a marauding expedition on

the frontier; his party had appointed to unite with a stronger force, and to make a razzia upon the cattle of the

There was no game at Ombrega, therefore I employed the interval of two days in cleaning all the rifles, and in

preparing for a fresh expedition, as that of the Settite and Royan had been completed. The short Tatham

No.10 rifle carried a heavy cylinder, instead of the original spherical ball. I had only fired two shots with this

rifle, and the recoil had been so tremendous, owing to the heavy weight of the projectile, that I had mistrusted

the weapon; therefore, when the moment arrived to fire off all the guns preparatory to cleaning, my good

angel whispered a providential warning, and I agreed to fire this particular rifle by a long fishingline

attached to the trigger, while the gun should be fastened to a tree. It blew all to pieces! The locks were blown

entirely away, and the stock was shattered into fragments: nothing remained but the thick end near the

shoulderplate. I had received a mysterious presentiment of this; had I fired that rifle in the usual manner, I

must have been killed on the spot. The charge was five drachms, which was small in proportion to the weight

of the cylindrical projectile. This may be a warning to such sportsmen who adopt newfashioned projectiles

to oldfashioned rifles, that were proved with the spherical bullet, which in weight and friction bears no

proportion to the heavy cylinder; nevertheless, this rifle should not have burst, and the metal showed great

The leader of Mek Nimmur's party returned, as he had promised, to be our guide. I extract from my journal,

"March 19, 1862.Started at 1.30 P.M., and halted at 5 P.M. There is no water for about thirty miles; thus

we had watered all the animals at the usual hour (noon), and they will accordingly endure until tomorrow

evening. Upon ascending the slope of the Settite valley, the country is an immense plain of fertile soil, about

two hundred feet above the river. While on the march, I espied a camel wandering without an owner; this was

inmmediately secured as a lawful prize by our guide. This fellow's name is Mahomet; he is, doubtlessly, an

outandout scoundrel; he is about five feet ten inches in height, and as thin as a live man can be; he is so

craftylooking, and so wiry and eellike, that if I were to lock him up I should secure the keyhole, as he

"March 20.Started at 5 A.M., and in three hours we reached the chain of lofty wooded hills that bound the

plain. In a march of four hours from this point, we arrived at a hor, or ravine, when we halted beneath a large

tamarind tree, and pitched the tent according to the instructions of our guide. The plain from the Settite to the

base of the hilly range that we had crossed, is about twentytwo miles wide by forty in length, and, like all

the tableland in this country, it is well adapted for cotton cultivation. Were the route secure through the Base

country, loaded camels might reach Cassala in six days and from thence to Souakim. All this country is

uninhabited. On arrival at the base of the first bill, a grove of tamarinds shades a spring, at which we watered

our horses, but the water is impregnated with natron, which is common throughout this country, and appears

in many places as an efflorescence on the surface of the ground. From the spring at the eastern base of the

hills, we ascended a rugged pass, winding for some miles among ravines, and crossing elevated shoulders of

the range. Upon the summit we passed a rich mass of both rosecoloured and white limestone, similar to that

we had seen at Geera; this was surrounded by basalt, and the presence of limestone entirely mystifles my

ideas of geology. Immense quantities of very beautiful spar lay upon the surface in all directions; some of this

was perfectly white, and veined like an agateI believe it was white cornelian; other fragments, of sizes

equalling sixty or seventy pounds weight, were beautifully green, suggesting the presence of copper. Large

masses of exquisite bloodstone, the size of a man's head, were exceedingly numerous. Having crossed the

hills, we descended to a rich and parklike valley, covered with grass, and ornamented with fine timber.

Much dhurra was cultivated, and several villages were passed, that had been plundered by the Egyptians

during the recent attack. This country must be exceedingly unhealthy during the rainy season, as the soil is

extremely rich, and the valleys, surrounded by hills, would become swamps. From the Settite river, at

Ombrega, to our haltingplace beneath the tamarindtree, at this spot, is about thirtyfive miles south, 10

Our camp was in a favourable locality, well shaded by large trees, on the margin of a small stream; this was

nearly dry at this season, and the water was extremely bad, having a strong taste of copper. I had remarked

throughout the neighbourhood unmistakeable evidences of the presence of this metalthe surface of the

rocks was in many places bright green, like malachite, and, upon an exploration of the bed of the stream, I

found veins of a green substance in the perpendicular cliffs that had been cut through by the torrent. These

green veins passed through a bed of reddish, hard rock, glistening with minute crystals, which I believe to

have been copper. There is no doubt that much might be done were the mineral wealth of this country

The day following our arrival was passed in receiving visits from a number of Abyssinians, and the head men

of Mek Nimmur. There was a mixture of people, as many of the Jaleen Arabs who had committed some

crime in the Egyptian territory, had fled across the country and joined the exiled chief of their tribe.

Altogether, the society in this district was not creme de la creme, as Mek Nimmur's territory was an asylum

for all the blackguards of the adjoining countries, who were attracted by the excitement and lawlessness of

continual border warfare. The troop that we had seen at Ombrega returned with a hundred and two head of

camels, that they had stolen from the west bank of the Atbara. Mounted upon hygeens, Mek Nimmur's

irregulars thought nothing of marching sixty miles in one day; thus their attack and retreat were equally

I had a quantity of rhinoceros hide in pieces of the size required for shields; these were much prized in this

fighting country, and I presented them to a number of head men who had honoured us with a visit. I begged

them to guide two of my people to the presence of Mek Nimmur, with a preliminary message. This they

promised to perform. Accordingly, I sent Taher Noor and Bacheet on horseback, with a most polite message,

accompanied with my card in an envelope, and a small parcel, carefully wrapped in four or five different

papers; this contained a very beautiful Persian lancehead, of polished steel inlaid with gold, that I had

During their absence, we were inundated with visitors, the Abyssinians, in their tight pantaloons, contrasting

strongly with the looselyclad Arabs. In about an hour, my messengers returned, accompanied by two men

on horseback, with a hospitable message fronm Mek Nimmur, and an invitation to pay him a visit at his own

residence. I had some trifling present ready for everybody of note, and, as Taher Noor and my people had

already explained all they knew concerning us, Mek Nimmur's suspicions had entirely vanished.

As we were conversing with Mek Nimmur's messengers through the medium of Taher Noor, who knew their

language, our attention was attracted by the arrival of a tremendous swell who at a distance I thought must be

Mek Nimmur himself. A snowwhite mule carried an equally snowwhite person, whose tight white

pantaloons looked as though he had forgotten his trousers, and had mounted in his drawers. He carried a large

umbrella to shade his complexion; a pair of handsome silvermounted pistols were arranged upon his saddle,

and a silverhilted curved sword, of the peculiar Abyssinian form, hung by his side. This grand personage

was followed by an attendant, also mounted upon a mule, while several men on foot accompanied them, one

of whom carried his lance and shield. Upon a near approach, he immediately dismounted, and advanced

towards us, bowing in a most foppish manner, while his attendant followed him on foot with an enormous

violin, which he immediately handed to him. This fiddle was very peculiar in shape, being a square, with an

exceedingly long neck extending from one corner; upon this was stretched a solitary string, and the bow was

very short and much bent. This was an Abyssinian Paganini. He was a professional minstrel of the highest

These musicians are very similar to the minstrels of ancient times; they attend at public rejoicings, and at

births, deaths, and marriages of great personages, upon which occasions they extemporize their songs

according to circumstances. My hunting in the Base country formed his theme, and for at least an hour he

sang of my deeds, in an extremely loud and disagreeable voice, while he accompanied himself upon his

fiddle, which he held downwards like a violoncello: during the whole of his song he continued in movement,

marching with a sliding step to the front, and gliding to the right and left in a manner that, if intended to be

graceful, was extremely comic. The substance of this minstrelsy was explained to me by Taher Noor, who

listened eagerly to the words, which he translated with evident satisfaction. Of course, like all minstrels, he

was an absurd flatterer, and, having gathered a few facts for his theme, he wandered slightly from the truth in

He sang of me as though I had been Richard Coeur de Lion, and recounted, before an admiring throng of

listeners, how "I had wandered with a young wife from my own distant country to fight the terrible Base; how

I had slain them in single combat; and how elephants and lions were struck down like lambs and kids by my

hands; that during my absence in the hunt, my wife had been carried off by the Base; that I had, on my return

to my pillaged camp, galloped off in chase, and, overtaking the enemy, hundreds had fallen by my rifle and

sword, and I had liberated and recovered the lady, who now had arrived safe with her lord in the country of

This was all very pretty, no doubt, and as true as most poetical and musical descriptions, but I felt certain that

there must be something to pay for this flattering entertainment; if you are considered to be a great man, a

present is invariably expected in proportion to your importance. I suggested to Taher Noor that I must give

him a couple of dollars. "What!" said Taher Noor, "a couple of dollars! Impossible! a musician of his

standing it accustomed to receive thirty and forty dollars from great people for so beautiful and honourable a

This was somewhat startling; I began to reflect upon the price of a box at Her Majesty's Theatre in London;

but there I was not the hero of the opera; this minstrel combined the whole affair in a most simple manner; he

was Verdi, Costa, and orchestra all in one; he was a thorough Macaulay as historian, therefore I had to pay

the composer as well as the fiddler. I compromised the matter, and gave him a few dollars, as I understood

that he was Mek Nimmur's private minstrel, but I never parted with my dear Maria Theresa* with so much

regret as upon that occasion, and I begged him not to incommode himself by paying us another visit, or,

should he be obliged to do so, I trusted he would not think it necessary to bring his violin.

The minstrel retired in the same order that he had arrived, and I watched his retreating figure with unpleasant

reflections, that were suggested by doubts as to whether I had paid him too little or too much; Taher Noor

thought that he was underpaid; my own opinion was, that I had brought a curse upon myself equal to a

succession of London organgrinders, as I fully expected that other minstrels, upon hearing of the Austrian

In the afternoon, we were sitting beneath the shade of our tamarind tree when we thought we could perceive

our musical friend returning. As he drew near, we were convinced that it was the identical minstrel, who had

most probably been sent with a message from Mek Nimmur: there he was, in snowwhite raiment, on the

snowwhite mule, with the mounted attendant and the violin as before. He dismounted upon arrival opposite

the camp, and approached with his usual foppish bow; but we looked on in astonishment: it was not our

Paganini, it was ANOTHER MINSTREL! who was determined to sing an ode in our praise. I felt that this

was an indirect appeal to Maria Theresa, and I at once declared against music. I begged him not to sing; "my

wife had a headacheI disliked the fiddlecould he play anything else instead?" and I expressed a variety

of polite excuses, but to no purpose; he insisted upon singing; if I "disliked the fiddle, he would sing without

an accompaniment, but he could not think of insulting so great a man as myself by returning without an ode

I was determined that he should NOT sing; he was determined that he WOULD, therefore I desired him to

leave my camp; this he agreed to do, provided I would allow him to cross the stream, and sing to my

Tokrooris, in my praise, beneath a neighbouring tree about fifty yards distant. He remounted his mule with

his violin, to ford the muddy stream, and he descended the steep bank, followed by his attendant on foot, who

drove the unwilling mule. Upon arrival at the brink of the dirty brook, that was about three feet deep, the

mule positively refused to enter the water, and stood firm with its fore feet sunk deep in the mud. The

attendant attempted to push it on behind, at the same time he gave it a sharp blow with his sheathed sword;

this changed the scene to the "opera comique." In one instant the mule gave so vigorous and unexpected a

kick into the bowels of the attendant, that he fell upon his back, heels uppermost, while at the same moment

the minstrel, in his snowwhite garments, was precipitated head foremost into the muddy brook, and for the

moment disappearing, the violin alone could be seen floating on the surface. A second later, a

wretchedlooking object, covered with slime and filth, emerged from the slough; this was Paganini the

second! who, after securing his fiddle, that had stranded on a mudbank, scrambled up the steep slope,

amidst the roars of laughter of my people and of ourselves; while the perverse mule, having turned harmony

into discord, kicked up its heels and galloped off, braying an ode in praise of liberty, as the "Lay of the last

Minstrel." The discomfited fiddler was wiped down by my Tokrooris, who occasionally burst into renewed

fits of laughter during the operation; the mule was caught, and the minstrel remounted, and returned home

On the following morning, at sunrise, I mounted my horse, and, accompanied by Taher Noor and Bacheet, I

rode to pay my respects to Mek Nimmur. Our route lay parallel to the stream, and, after a ride of about two

miles through a fine, parklike country, bounded by the Abyssinian Alps about fifteen miles distant, I

observed a crowd of people round a large tamarind tree, near which were standing a number of horses, mules,

and dromedaries. This was the spot upon which I was to meet Mek Nimmur. Upon my approach the crowd

opened, and, having dismounted, I was introduced by Taher Noor to the great chief. He was a man of about

fifty, and exceedingly dirty in appearance. He sat upon an angarep, surrounded by his people; lying on either

side upon his seat were two brace of pistols, and within a few yards stood his horse ready saddled. He was

prepared for fight or flight, as were also his ruffianlylooking followers, who were composed of Abyssinians

I commenced the conversation by referring to the hospitality shown by his father to my countryman, Mr.

Mansfield Parkyns, and I assured him that such kind attentions were never forgotten by an Englishman,

therefore I had determined to visit him, although the Egyptian authorities had cautioned me not to trust

myself within his territory. I explained that I was bound towards an unknown point, in search of the sources

of the White Nile, which might occupy some years, but that I wished to perfect the exploration by the

examination of all the Abyssinian Nile affluents: and I concluded by asking for his assistance in my journey

to the Bahr Angrab and the Salaam. He replied very politely, and gave me much local information; he said

that the Egyptians gave him no peace, that he was obliged to fight in selfdefence; but that, if I could make

overtures on his part to the Egyptian authorities, he would engage never to cross the Atbara, provided they

observed a similar condition. I promised to represent his offer to the GovernorGeneral on my arrival at

Khartoum. He agreed to give me a guide to the rivers Angrab and Salaam, that were not far distant, and he at

once pointed out to me the two dark gorges, about twelve and sixteen miles distant, in the chain of

precipitous mountains from which they flowed. He described the country upon the other side of the

mountains to be the elevated plateau of Abyssinia, and he advised me to visit the king before my departure

from his territory; this I could not conveniently accomplish, as my route lay in an opposite direction. He

begged me for a telescope, so that he should be able to see the approach of the Turks (Egyptians) from a great

distance, as he explained that he had spies upon all the mountain tops, so that no stranger could enter his

country without his knowledge. He confessed that my movements while in the Base country had been

watched by his spies, until he had felt assured that I had no sinister motive. I laughed at the idea; he replied,

that we were most fortunate to have escaped an attack from the natives, as they were far worse than wild

beasts, and he immediately pointed out several Base slaves who were present in the crowd, who had been

captured when children; they appeared to be the same as the woollyheaded natives of the south bank of the

Blue Nile, and not at all peculiar in appearance. He cautioned me against bathing in the stream, or drinking

the water in the neighbourhood of our camp, as it was extremely poisonous, and would produce an irritation

of the skin. I told him that I had discovered copper, and that I attributed the poisonous quality of the water to

the presence of that mineral. This announcement was received with a general expression of approbation.

"That is very curious," he said, "that we who live in this country are ignorant, and that you, a stranger, should

at once explain the cause of the poison." He at once agreed to the suggestion, as he said, that during the rains,

when the torrents were full, the water was not unwholesome, but in the dry weather, when the supply was

scanty, and the stream feeble, the strength of the poison was necessarily increased. He assured me that,

although the pasturage was excellent, all cattle that drank in that hor or stream became as thin as skeletons.

Mek Nimmur had been ignorant of the existence of copper, but he informed me that gold dust was common

in the sand of most of the ravines, and that, if I would remain in his country, I might discover considerable

quantities. I informed him that I had already discovered the existence of both gold and lead. He requested me

to give him every information respecting the lead, as he should prefer it to gold, as he could manufacture

bullets to shoot the Turks (as the Egyptians are called by the neighbouring tribes). After a long and

satisfactory conversation, I made my salaam, and retired. Immediately on my arrival at the camp, I

despatched Wat Gamma on horseback with Taher Noor, in charge of a pair of beautiful doublebarrelled

pistols, with the name of Tatham as the manufacturer; these were loaded, and I sent a polite message, begging

Mek Nimmur's acceptance of the present; they were accompanied by a supply of ammunition.

In the evening Wat Gamma returned with the pistols; they had BURST! Mek Nimmur had requested him

to fire at a mark, and one barrel of each pistol had given way; thus, the double rifle and the pistols of the same

name "Tatham" had all failed; fortunately no one was injured. I was afraid that this would lead to some

complication, and I was much annoyed; I had never used these pistols, but I had considered that they were

first rate; thus I had given them to Mek Nimmur as a valuable present, and they had proved their utter

worthlessness. I immediately mounted my horse, and with my revolver in my belt, and my beautiful single

Beattie rifle in my hand, I galloped off to Mek Nimmur; he was seated in the same spot, watching the harvest

of dhurra, enormous piles of which were being thrashed by a number of Abyssinians. The instant that I

arrived, I went straight to him, and explained my regret and disappointment at the failure of the pistols, and I

begged him to take his choice between my rifle and revolver. He behaved remarkably well; he had begged

my messenger to leave the broken pistols with him, and not to mention the circumstance to me, as he felt sure

that I should feel even more annoyed than himself; he now declined my offer, as he said I should require the

weapons during my proposed journey up the White Nile, and he could not deprive me of their use. He was

afraid of the revolver, as it was too complicated, but I tore from my notebook a small piece of paper, which

I requested one of his people to stick upon a rock about ninety yards distant. I took a steady shot with the

single rifle, and was fortunate enough to hit the paper exactly. This elicited general applause, and Mek

Nimmur called one of his people, an Abyssinian, who he declared to be a celebrated shot, and he requested

that he might be allowed to fire the rifle. I placed a similar mark upon the rock, and the Abyssinian fired from

a rest, and struck the stone, in a good line, about six inches below the paper. The crowd were in raptures with

the rifle, which I at once insisted upon Mek Nimmur accepting. I then made my salaam, and mounted my

On the following morning, Mek Nimmur sent us two camelloads of corn; a large gourd of honey, weighing

about fifty pounds; and four cows that must have been a detachment of Pharaoh's lean kine, with a polite

message that I was to select the FATTEST. These cattle were specimens of the poisonous qualities of the

water; but, although disappointed in the substance of the present, my people were delighted with the

acquisition, and they immediately selected a cow; but just as they were licking their lips at the prospect of

fresh meat, which they had not tasted for some days, the cow broke away and made off across country. In

despair at the loss, my men followed in hot pursuit, and two of the Tokrooris overtook her, and held on to her

tail like bulldogs, although dragged for some distance, at full gallop through thorns and ruts, until the other

men arrived and overpowered the thin, but wiry animal. When slaughtered, there was a great squabble

"March 25, 1862.Mai Gubba is about twelve miles E.N.E. of our camp. Mek Nimmur's stronghold is upon

a lofty tablemountain, due south of this spot, from which great elevation (about 5,000 feet) the granite

"March 27.We started for the Bahr Salaam, and said goodbye to Mek Nimmur, as we passed his position

"We had hardly marched two miles, when one of the baggagecamels suddenly fell down to die; the Arabs

immediately cut its throat with a sword, and Bacheet, having detached one ear as a witness of its death,

galloped back to borrow a fresh camel of Mek Nimmur, which he very kindly sent without delay. We were

obliged to bivouac on the spot for the night, as the Arabs required the flesh of their camel, which was cut into

thin strips. As they were employed in skinning it, they ate large quantities raw and quivering. The stream, or

hor, that flows through this country, parallel with our route, is the Ma Serdi; all this district is rich in copper.

"March 28.Started at 5 A.M. course S.W. We crossed two hors, flowing from N.N.W. and joining the Ma

Serdi; also a beautiful running stream of deep and clear water twelve miles from our bivouac of last evening:

this stream is never dry; it springs from a range of hills about ten miles distant. The whole of this country is

well watered by mountain streams, the trees are no longer the thorny mimosas, but as the land is not only

fertile, but sufficiently moist, it gives birth to a different kind of vegetation, and the trees are mostly free from

thorns, although at this season devoid of foliage. The country is ornamented by extensive cultivation, and

numerous villages. We halted at 5 P.M. having marched twentyone miles. The fertile soil of this country is

thoroughly melted by rain during the wet season, and in the intense heat of the drought it becomes a mass of

gaping crevices many feet deep, that render hunting on horseback most dangerous. Fortunately, as we halted,

I observed a herd of tetel, and three ostriches: the latter made off immediately, but I succeeded in stalking the

tetel, and shot two, right and left, one of which escaped, but the other became the prize of my Tokrooris.

"March 29.Started at 5.30 A.M. and reached the river Salaam at 8 A.M.; the total distance from our camp

in Mek Nimmur's country is thirtyfive miles S.W. The Bahr Salaam is precisely similar in character to the

Settite, but smaller; it has scooped through the rich lands a deep valley, like the latter river, and has

transported the fertile loam to the Atbara, to increase the rich store of mud which that river delivers to the

Nile. The Salaam is about two hundred yards wide; it flows through perpendicular cliffs that form walls of

rock, in many places from eighty to a hundred and fifty feet above its bed; the water is as clear as crystal, and

of excellent quality; even now, a strong though contracted stream is running over the rounded pebbles that

form its bed, similar to that of the Settite. We descended a difficult path, and continued along the dry portion

of the river's bed up the stream. While we were searching for a spot to encamp, I saw a fine bull mehedehet

(A. Redunca Ellipsiprymna) by the water side; I stalked him carefully from behind a bed of high rushes, and

shot him across the river with the Fletcher rifle; he went on, although crippled, but the lefthand barrel settled

"March 30.I went out to explore the country, and, steering due east, I arrived at the river Angrab or

Angarep, three miles from the Salaam; from a high rock I could trace its course from the mountain gorge to

this spot, the stream flowing N.W. This noble river or mountain torrent is about a hundred and fifty yards

wide, although the breadth varies according to the character of the country through which it passes; in most

places it rushes through frightful precipices; sometimes it is walled within a channel of only forty or fifty

yards, and in such places the cliffs, although at least a hundred feet perpendicular height, bear the marks of

floods that have actually overtopped the rocks, and have torn away the earth, and left masses of bamboos and

withered reeds clinging to the branches of trees, which, growing on still higher rocks, have dipped in the

swollen torrent. I followed the circuitous course of the river for some miles, until, after a most fatiguing

exploration among precipices and deep ravines, I arrived at the junction of the Salaam river. On the way, I

came upon a fine bull nellut (A. Strepsiceros) beneath a shady nabbuk by the river's side; I could only obtain

an oblique shot, as his hind quarters were towards me; the bullet passed through the ribs, and reached the

shoulder upon the opposite side. This nellut had the finest horns that I had yet obtained; they measured four

feet in the curve, three feet one inch and a half in a straight line, with a spread of two feet seven inches from

point to point. I found tracks of hippopotami upon the high grassy hills; these animals climb up the most

difficult places during the night, when they ascend from the river to seek for pasturage. I was not far from the

tent when I arrived at the junction of the Angrab with the Bahr Salaam, but the rivers were both sunk in

stupendous precipices, so that it was impossible to descend. The mouth of the river Angrab was an

extraordinary sight; it was not wider than about fifteen yards, although the river averaged a width of at least a

hundred and fifty yards. The exit of the water was between two lofty walls of basalt rock, which overhung the

stream, which in the rainy season not only forced its way for about a hundred yards through this narrow cleft,

but it had left proof of inundations that had leapt over the summit of the obstruction, when the rush of water

had been too great for the area of the contracted passage. Altogether, the two rivers Sahaam and Angrab are

interesting examples of the destructive effect of water, that has during the course of ages cut through, and

hollowed out in the solid rock, a succession of the most horrible precipices and caverns, in which the

maddened torrents, rushing from the lofty chain of mountains, boil along until they meet the Atbara, and

assist to flood the Nile. No one could explore these tremendous torrents, the Settite, Royan, Angrab, Salaam,

and Atbara, without at once comprehending their effect upon the waters of the Nile. The magnificent chain of

mountains from which they flow, is not a simple line of abrupt sides, but the precipitous slopes are the walls

of a vast plateau, that receives a prodigious rainfall in June, July, August, until the middle of September, the

entire drainage of which is carried away by the abovenamed channels to inundate Lower Egypt."

Not being able to cross the river at the point of junction with the Salaam, I continued along the margin of the

precipice that overhangs the latter river, until I should find a place by which we could descend with the

camel, as this animal had made a great circuit to avoid the difficulties of the Angrab. We were at length

united, and were continuing our route parallel with the river, over undulations of withered grass about three

feet high, interspersed with trees, when I perceived above the surface the long horns of a mehedehet (R.

Ellipsiprymna). I knew that he must be lying down, and, as he was about a hundred and fifty yards distant, I

stalked him carefully from tree to tree; presently I observed three other pairs of horns at various distances;

two were extremely large; but, unfortunately, an animal with smaller horns was lying between me and the

largest. I could do no more than creep quietly from point to point, until the smaller animal should start and

alarm the larger. This it did when I was about a hundred yards from the large bull, and both mehedehets

sprang up, and, as is usual with this species, they stood for a few moments seeking for the danger. My clothes

and hunting cap matched so well with the bark of the tree behind which I was kneeling, that I was

unobserved, and, taking a rest against the stem with the little Fletcher, I fired both barrels, the right at the

most distant bull. Both animals simply sprang for an instant upon their hind legs, and fell. This was capital;

but at the report of the rifle, up jumped two other mehedehets, which appeared the facsimiles of those I had

just shot; having missed their companions, and seeing no one, they stood motionless and gazed in all

I had left my people far behind when I had commenced the stalk, therefore I had no spare rifle. I reloaded

behind the tree with all haste. I had capped the nipples, and, as I looked out from my covering point, I saw

them still in the same spot; the larger, with superb horns, was about a hundred and twenty yards distant.

Again I took a rest, and fired. He sprang away as though untouched for the first three or four bounds, when he

leapt convulsively in the air, and fell backwards. This was too much for the remaining animal, that was

standing about a hundred yards distanthe bounded off; but the last barrel of the little Fletcher caught him

These were the prettiest shots I ever recollect to have made, in a very long experience; I had bagged four with

My Tokroori, Abdoolahi, who had been intently watching the shots from a distance, came rushing up in hot

excitement with one of my sharp hunting knives, and, springing forward to hamstring one of the animals, that

was still struggling, he foolishly made a downward cut, and, missing his blow, he cut his own leg terribly

across the shin, the knife flying out of his hand as it struck against the bone: he was rendered helpless

immediately. I tied up the wound with my handkerchief, and, having at length loaded the camel with as much

meat as we could cut off the animals, Abdoolahi was assisted upon its back; my men carried the two finest

heads. It was very late, and we now sought for a path by which we could descend to the river.

At length we discovered a dangerous antelopetrack, that descended obliquely, by skirting an exceedingly

steep side of a hill, with a perpendicular precipice immediately below, that fell for about seventy feet sheer to

the river. My horse Tetel was as surefooted as a goat, therefore, having taken off my shoes to avoid

slipping, I led him to the bottom safely. Taher Noor called to the cameldriver not to attempt to follow.

Although warned, this fellow persisted in leading the heavilyladen animal down the slippery and dangerous

path. Hardly had he gone a few paces, when the camel's feet slipped, and it shot down the rapid incline, and

disappeared over the edge of the precipice. I heard the camel roar, and, hastening up the path, I looked over

the cliff, holding to a rope that Taher Noor fastened to a tree. I perceived that the animal was fortunately

caught upon a narrow ledge of rock, and was prevented from falling to the bottom by a tough bush that grew

from a cleft; this alone supported it in midair. My Arabs were wild and stupid. Abdoolahi had held on like a

leech, and, as we were well provided with strong ropes, we soon hauled him up, but the Arabs declared their

camel to be dead, as no power on earth could save it. Having examined the cliff, I felt sure that we could

assist the camel, unless it had already broken some bones by the fall; accordingly, I gave orders to the Arabs,

who obeyed implicitly, as they were so heartbroken at the idea of losing their animal, that they had lost all

confidence in themselves. We lowered down Taher Noor by a rope to the bush, and after some difficulty, he

unfastened the load of flesh, which he threw piece by piece to a platform of rock below, about ten feet square,

which formed a shelf a few inches above the level of the water. The camel being relieved of both the load and

its saddle, I ordered the Arabs to fasten together all their ropes; these, being made of twisted antelope's hide,

were immensely strong, and, as I had established a rule that seven extra bundles should invariably accompany

the watercamel, we had a large supply. The camel was now secured by a rope passed round the body

beneath the forelegs, and the cloths of the Arabs were wrapped around the cord to prevent it from cutting the

skin. This being arranged, I took a double turn of the rope round a tree, as thick as a man's thigh, that grew in

a cleft of the rock where we stood, and throwing the honey axe to Taher Noor, I told him to cut away the

bushes that supported the camel, and I would lower it gently down to the shelf by the water's edge. In a few

minutes the bushes were cut away, and the camel, roaring with fright, swung in midair. Taher Noor held on

to the rope, while I slacked off the line from the tree, and lowered both man and beast safely to the shelf,

about seventy feet below. The camel was unhurt, and the Arabs were delighted; two other men now

descended. We threw them down a quantity of dry wood to make a fire, and, as they were well off for meat,

we left them prisoners upon the ledge of rock with the profoundly deep river before them, walled in by abrupt

precipices upon either side.* It was nearly dark, and, having to find my way to the camp among dangerous

ravines, I rode fast ahead of my men to discover a ford, and to reach home before complete darkness should

increase the danger. Tetel was as surefooted and as nimble as a cat, but we very nearly ended our days

together, as the bank of a precipice gave way while we were skirting the edge. I felt it sinking, but the horse

* On the following morning the camel was safely floated across the river, supported by the inflated skins of

That night we received a very audacious visit. I was asleep in my tent, when I was suddenly awakened by a

slight pull at my sleeve, which was the signal always given by my wife if anything was wrong; on such

occasions, I never replied until I had gently grasped my little Fletcher, which always slept with me beneath

my mat. She now whispered that a hyaena had been within the tent, but that it had just bolted out, as these

animals are so wary that they detect the slightest movement or noise. As a rule, I never shot at hyaenas, but,

as I feared it might eat our saddles, I lay in bed with the rifle to my shoulder, pointed towards the tent door

through which the moon was shining brightly. In a few minutes, a greylooking object stood like an

apparition at the entrance, peering into the tent to see if all were right before it entered. I touched the trigger,

and the hyaena fell dead, with the bullet through its head. This was a regular veteran, as his body was covered

with old scars from continual conflicts with other hyaenas. This was the first time that one of these animals

had taken such a liberty; they were generally contented with eating the bones that were left from our dinner

We remained in this beautiful country from March 29th until April 14th, during which time I seldom

remained for an hour in camp, from sunrise to sunset; I was always in the saddle or on foot. Two of my best

Tokrooris, Hadji Ali and Hassan, usually accompanied me on horseback, while Taher Noor and a couple of

Arabs rode upon camels with a good supply of water. In this manner I traversed the entire country, into the

base of the great mountain chain, and thence down the course of the river towards the Atbara junction. This

district was entirely composed of the most fertile soil, through which the great rivers Angrab and Salaam had

cut their way in a similar manner to the Atbara and Settite. The Salaam, after the junction of the Angrab, was

equal in appearance to the Atbara, but the inclination of this great mountain torrent is so rapid, that it quickly

becomes exhausted at the cessation of rain in the lofty mountains that form its source. Both the Angrab and

the Salaam are short rivers, but, as they are the two main channels for the reception of the entire drainage of a

vast mountain area, they bring down most violent floods, that materially affect the volume of the main artery.

The whole of this country abounded in game beyond any that I had hitherto seen, and I had most glorious

sport. Among the varieties of antelopes, was a new species that I had seen upon several occasions on the

Settite, where it was extremely rare. On the high open plains above the valley of the Salaam, this antelope

was very numerous, but so wild and wary that it was impossible to approach nearer than from 350 to 500

yards. This magnificent animal, the largest of all the antelopes of Abyssinia and Central Africa, is known to

the Arabs as the Maarif (Hippotragus Bakerii). It is a variety of the sable antelope of South Africa

(Hippotragus Niger). The colour is mousegrey, with a black stripe across the shoulders, and black and white

lines across the nose and cheeks. The height at the shoulder would exceed fourteen hands, and the neck is

ornamented with a thick and stiff black mane. The shoulders are peculiarly massive, and are extremely high

at the withers; the horns are very powerful, and, like those of the roan and the sable antelope, they are

annulated, and bend gracefully backwards. Both the male and female are provided with horns; those of the

former are exceedingly thick, and the points frequently extend so far as to reach the shoulders.

The Maarif invariably inhabits open plains, upon which it can see an enemy at a great distance, thus it is the

most difficult of all animals to stalk. Nothing can be more beautiful than a herd of these superb animals, but

the only successful method of hunting would be to course them with greyhounds; my dogs were dead, thus I

depended entirely upon the rifle. I was also deprived of the assistance of the aggageers, whom I had left at the

Rhinoceros and giraffes were very numerous throughout this country; but the ground was most unfavourable

for riding. The surface resembled a beautiful park, composed of a succession of undulations, interspersed

with thornless trees, and watered by streamlets at intervals of five or eight miles, while the magnificent Alps

of Abyssinia bounded the view to the south; but there was no enjoyment in this country on horseback. The

rainy season converted this rich loam into a pudding, and the dry season baked it into a piecrust. The entire

surface was loose, flaky, and hollow; there was not a yard of ground that was not split into deep crevices, that

were regular pitfalls; and so unsound was the general character of the country, that a horse sank above his

fetlocks at every footstep. I usually rode during the day when exploring; but whenever I shot, it was

necessary to dismount, as it was impossible to follow an animal successfully on horseback. I had on several

occasions attempted to ride down a giraffe, but upon such ground I had not the slightest chance; thus the

aggageers, who invariably hunt the giraffe by riding at full speed until they can hamstring it with the sword,

never visit this country. This accounted for the presence of so large a number of animals, as they were never

Our camp was pitched at the junction of a torrent, which, flowing from the higher ground, joined the river

Salaam in a succession of waterfalls. At this season, a gentle stream, as clear as glass, rippled over a rocky

bed about twenty yards wide, and the holes in the flat surface above the fall formed natural basins of the

purest water. I frequently strolled for some miles along the bed of the stream, that afforded excellent

pasturage for the horses in a sweet, green grass, that was not only an attraction to antelopes and buffaloes

(Bos Caffer), but formed a covert for incredible numbers of the beautiful francolin partridge, which might

have been shot in hundreds as they rose from the cool herbage that afforded both food and concealment. I

was returning late one evening along the bed of the stream, after a day's shooting, during which I had bagged

several antelopes and wild boar, when I observed at a distance a dark mass in the bright yellow grass, which I

quickly distinguished as a herd of elephants. It was just dusk, and having endeavoured to meet them as they

came to drink, but without success, I determined to track them up on the following morning. I started at

daybreak, with all my horses and gunbearers. For about sixteen miles we tracked up the herd to within a

short distance of the base of the mountain range. During the march, we had seen large quantities of giraffes,

and all the varieties of large antelopes. The country, that had consisted of a vast plain, now changed to rapid

undulations; the trees were generally small, and, at this season of intense dryness, were devoid of leaves. At

the bottom of one of these undulations, among a number of skeleton trees, that afforded no shade, we

discovered the elephants, standing in the high withered grass, that entirely concealed all but the upper portion

of their heads; they were amusing themselves by tearing up the trees, and feeding upon the succulent roots. I

ordered Taher Noor and Bacheet each to take a horse and rifle, and to lead them, together with my hunter

Aggahr, about a hundred yards behind me, while I advanced towards the elephants on foot. At the sound of

the first shot they were to mount, and to bring my horse and spare guns as rapidly as possible. Unfortunately,

the herd was alarmed by a large bull giraffe that was asleep in the grass, which started up within thirty yards

of us, and dashed off in terror through the mass of elephants. Their attention was roused, and they moved off

to my left, which change of position immediately gave them our wind. There was no time to lose, as the herd

was in retreat; and, as they were passing across my path, at about two hundred paces distance, I ran at my

best speed, stumbling through the broken piecrust, and sinking in the yawning crevices, the sides of which

were perfectly rotten, until I arrived within shot of about twentyfive elephants. I was just on the point of

firing at the temple of a large animal that was within about ten yards, when it suddenly turned, and charged

straight at me. With the righthand barrel of a Reilly No. 10, I was fortunate enough to turn it by a forehead

shot, when so close that it was nearly upon me. As it swerved, I fired the remaining barrel exactly through the

centre of the shoulder; this dropped and killed the elephant as though it had been shot through the brain.

The difficulties of the ground were such, that the horses were not led as quickly as I had expected; thus I had

to reload, which I had just completed when Aggahr was brought by Taher Noor. Springing into the saddle I at

once gave chase. The gallant old horse flew along through the high grass, regardless of the crevices and

rotten ground. The herd was about three hundred yards ahead, but the long steady stride of Aggahr quickly

shortened the distance, and in a few minutes I was riding alongside the elephants, that were shambling along

at a great pace. I determined to head them, and drive them back towards my people, in which case I expected

that we might be able to surround them. I touched Aggahr with the spur, and he shot ahead of the leading

elephants, when I turned sharp to the right exactly before their path, and gave a shout to check their advance;

in the same instant, Aggahr turned a complete somersault within a few yards of their feet, having put his

foreleg into a deep crevice, and I rolled over almost beneath the elephants with the heavy rifle in my hand.

The horse recovered quicker than I, and, galloping off, he vanished in the high grass, leaving me rather

confused from the fall upon my head. The herd, instead of crushing me as they ought to have done, took

fright, and bolted off at their best pace. My eyes were dancing with the fall; the mounted gunbearers were

nowhere, as Gazelle would not face the elephants, and Tetel was far behind. My English saddle had vanished

with Aggahr, and, as the stirrups of the Arab saddles were simple rings for the accommodation of the big toe,

they were unserviceable. Had the aggageers been with me, I should have had great sport with this herd; but,

with the exception of Taher Noor, the men were bad horsemen, and even he was afraid of the ground, which

We discovered that the bullet had passed through the great artery of the heart, which had caused the

We were now at least seventeen miles from camp, and I feared that Aggahr would be lost, and would most

likely be devoured by a lion during the night: thus I should lose not only my good old hunter, but my English

saddle. I passed several hours in searching for him in all directions, and, in order to prevent him from straying

to the south, we fired the grass in all directions; we thus had a line of fire between the camp and ourselves;

this burnt slowly, as the north wind had carried the blaze rapidly in the other direction. We rode along the

bottom of a watercourse and reached the Salaam river, thus avoiding the fire; but, some hours before we

neared the camp, night had set in. We had beaten the fire, as we had got to windward, and slowly and

tediously we toiled along the crumbling soil, stumbling among the crevices, that were nearly invisible in the

Thus we crept onwards; I had found riding impracticable, therefore the horses were led, with much difficulty,

as they constantly slipped up to their knees in the numerous fissures. It was difficult to recognise our position

in the moonlight, and we were doubtful whether we had not missed our route to the camp. My watch told me

that it was past nine o'clock, and we had been sixteen hours in hard work without the slightest rest. We halted

to confer about the direction of the camp, when suddenly I heard the report of a gun to our right; we

immediately turned, and hastened towards the welcome sound; presently I heard a distant shout. As we

approached, this was repeated, and as I hurried forward, I recognised my own name shouted in an agonised

voice. I ran on alone at my best speed, after giving a loud shrill whistle upon my fingers. This was quickly

replied to, and I repeated the wellknown signal, until in about ten minutes I met my wife, who had been

wandering about the country half distracted for hours, searching for me in every direction, as my horse

Aggahr had returned to the camp with the bridle broken, and the empty saddle scratched by the boughs of

trees; she had naturally concluded that some accident had happened. She had immediately armed herself with

the little Fletcher that had been left in the camp, being too small for elephants; with this, and several of the

Arabs armed with swords and lances, she had been hunting throughout this wild country during the night in a

state of terrible anxiety. It was fortunate that she had fired the shot to direct our attention, otherwise we might

have passed each other without being seen. "All's well that ends well:" we were about three miles from camp,

but the distance appeared short to everybody, as we now knew the true direction, and we at length perceived

The horse, Aggahr, must have found his way without difficulty, as he had arrived a little before sunset. This

curious instinct, that enables a horse to find the direction to its last haltingplace in a wild and pathless

country, was thoroughly appreciated by the Arabs, who had comforted me with the assurance, that no

Abyssinian horse would lose his way to the spot where he had last passed the night, if separated from his

I HAD thoroughly explored the beautiful country of the Salaam and Angrab; it was the 11th of April, and I

intended to push on to Gallabat, the frontier markettown of Abyssinia. We had no guide, as the fellow that

had been supplied by Mek Nimmur had absconded the day after our arrival at the Salaam, but during the

march he had pointed out a blue outline of a distant mountain in the south, that was called Nahoot Guddabi,

or the Saddle of Guddabi. This was an unmistakeable landmark, as it exactly resembled an Arab saddle; at the

foot of this mountain was the Tokroori village of Guddabi, the first habitation, at a distance of about fifty

miles from the Bahr Salaam. Although, from the experience I had had in this neighbourhood, I had little

doubt of the supply of water on the road, I sent three of my Tokrooris upon as many camels with waterskins,

On the second day they returned, and reported the existence of several small streams, all of which produced

We started on the following afternoon, and, with Hassan as our guide, and Taher Noor upon a camel, my wife

and I cantered ahead of the main body, over a high ridge of stony, and accordingly firm ground. Upon arrival

at the summit, we had a lovely view of the surrounding country, and we commenced a gentle descent into a

vast plain sparsely covered with small trees. In the extensive prospect before us, the dark green veins of

foliage in the otherwise yellow surface of withered grass marked out distinctly the course of small rivulets.

We hurried on, sometimes over blackened ashes, where the fire had swept all before it, at other times through

withered grass, that had been saved from destruction through the intervention of some ravine. At 7.30 P.M.

we arrived at an excellent halting place, by a beautiful but small stream of water, shaded by a fringe of dome

palms; this was by dead reckoning seventeen miles from our last camp. It had been pleasant travelling, as the

moon was full; we had ridden fast, therefore it was useless to expect the camels for some hours; we

accordingly spread the carpet on the ground, and lay down to sleep, with the stocks of the rifles for pillows,

On the following morning I sent a couple of men on camels to reconnoitre the country in advance, towards

Guddabi, and to return with the report of the supply of water. This country abounded with large game,

especially with the beautiful antelope already described, the maarif; they were as usual extremely wild, but I

succeeded in breaking the hip of a fine bull at a long range; and, separating him from the herd, I ran the

wounded antelope until I was thoroughly exhausted in the intense heat of the sun, but I lost it in the thick

bush not far from our camp. That night we heard a lion roaring close to us, and, upon searching at daybreak I

I mounted my horse Tetel, and, with Taher Noor and two of my Tokrooris, Hadji Ali and Hassan, I rode

towards a pyramidical hill about three miles distant, which I intended to ascend in order to obtain a

panoramic view of the country. This hill was about three hundred feet high, and, as the fire had swept away a

portion of the grass for several miles around, I should obtain a clear view of all living animals that might be

in the neighbourhood. Upon arrival at the base of the hill I dismounted, and led my horse up the steep

inclination of broken basalt that had fallen from the summit. From the top of the peak I had a superb

panorama of the country, the mountain Nahoot Guddabi bearing S.W. about thirty miles distant. I had a

complete bird'seye view of great extent, and I immediately distinguished, in various positions, giraffes,

buffaloes, tetel, and boars. At this season the trees were leafless, thus any animal upon the low ground would

be at once discovered from this elevated point. I extract from my journal the account of this day's hunt, as it

"I had been observing the country for some time from my high station, when I suddenly perceived two

rhinoceros emerge from a ravine; they walked slowly through a patch of high grass, and skirted the base of

the hill upon which we were standing: presently they winded something, and they trotted back and stood

concealed in the patch of grass. Although I had a good view of them from my present position, I knew that I

should not be able to see them in their covert, if on the same level; I therefore determined to send to the tent

for my other horses, and to ride them down, if I could not shoot them on foot; accordingly, I sent a man off,

directing him to lead Tetel from the peak, and to secure him to a tree at the foot of the hill, as I was afraid the

rhinoceros might observe the horse upon the sky line. This he did, and we saw him tie the horse by the bridle

to the branch of a tree below us, while he ran quickly towards the camp. In the mean time I watched the

rhinoceros; both animals lay down in the yellow grass, resembling masses of stone. They had not been long

in this position, before we noticed two pigs wandering through the grass directly to windward, towards the

sleeping rhinoceros; in an instant these animals winded the intruders, and starting up, they looked in all

directions, but could not see them, as they were concealed by the high grass. Having been thus disturbed, the

rhinoceros moved their quarters, and walked slowly forward, occasionally halting, and listening; one was

about a hundred yards in advance of the other. They were taking a direction at the base of the hill that would

lead them directly upon the spot where Tetel was tied to the tree. I observed this to Taher Noor, as I feared

they would kill the horse. 'Oh, no,' he replied, 'they will lie down and sleep beneath the first tree, as they are

seeking for shadethe sun is like fire.' However, they still continued their advance, and, upon reaching some

rising ground, the leading rhinoceros halted, and I felt sure that he had a clear view of the horse, that was now

about five hundred yards distant, tied to the tree. A ridge descended from the hill, parallel with the course the

animals were taking; upon this, I ran as quickly as the stony slope permitted, keeping my eye fixed upon the

leading rhinoceros, who, with his head raised, was advancing directly towards the horse. I now felt convinced

that he intended to attack it. Tetel did not observe the rhinoceros, but was quietly standing beneath the tree. I

ran as fast as I was able, and reached the bottom of the hill just as the wilful brute was within fifty yards of

the horse, which now for the first time saw the approaching danger; the rhinoceros had been advancing

steadily at a walk, but he now lowered his head, and charged at the horse at full speed.

"I was about two hundred yards distant, and for the moment I was afraid of shooting the horse, but I fired one

of the Reilly No. 10 rifles; the bullet, missing the rhinoceros, dashed the sand and stones into his face, as it

struck the ground exactly before his nose, when he appeared to be just into the unfortunate Tetel. The horse in

the same instant reared, and, breaking the bridle, it dashed away in the direction of the camp, while the

rhinoceros, astonished at the shot, and most likely half blinded by the sand and splinters of rock, threw up his

head, turned round, and trotted back upon the track by which he had arrived. He passed me at about a

hundred yards distance, as I had run forward to a bush, by which he trotted with his head raised, seeking for

the cause of his discomfiture. Crack! went a bullet against his hide, as I fired my remaining barrel at his

shoulder; he cocked his tail, and for a few yards he charged towards the shot; but he suddenly changed his

course, and ran round several times in a small circle; he then halted, and reeling to and fro, he retreated very

slowly, and lay down about a hundred yards off. Well done, Reilly! I knew that he had his quietus, but I was

determined to bag his companion, who in alarm had now joined him, and stood looking in all quarters for the

source of danger; but we were well concealed behind the bush. Presently, the wounded rhinoceros stood up,

and walking very slowly, followed by his comrade, he crossed a portion of rising ground at the base of the

hill, and both animals disappeared. I at once started off Hassan, who could run like an antelope, in search of

Tetel, while I despatched another man to the summit of the peak to see if the rhinoceros were in view; if not, I

knew they must be among the small trees and bushes at the foot of the hill. I thus waited for a long time, until

at length the two greys, Aggahr and Gazelle, arrived with my messenger from the camp. I tightened the girths

of the Arab saddle upon Aggahr, and I had just mounted, cursing all Arab stirrups, that are only made for the

naked big toe, when my eyes were gladdened by the sight of Hassan cantering towards me upon Tetel, but

from the exact direction the rhinoceros had taken. 'Quick! quick!' he cried, 'come along! One rhinoceros is

"I immediately jumped on Tetel, and, taking the little Fletcher rifle, as lighter and handier than the heavy No.

10, I ordered Taher Noor and Hassan to mount the other horses, and to follow me with spare rifles. I found

the rhinoceros lying dead about two hundred yards from the spot where he had received the shot, and I

immediately perceived the companion, that was standing beneath a small tree. The ground was firm and

stony, all the grass had been burnt off, except in a few small patches; the trees were not so thick together as to

"The rhinoceros saw us directly, and he valiantly stood and faced me as I rode up within fifty yards of him.

Tetel is worth his weight in gold as a shooting horse: he stands like a rock, and would face the devil. I was

unable to take a shot in this position, therefore I ordered the men to ride round a halfcircle, as I knew the

rhinoceros would turn towards the white horses, and thus expose his flank; this he did immediately, aud firing

well, exactly at the shoulder, I dropped him as though stone dead. Taher Noor shouted, 'Samme durrupto!'

(well shot); the rhinoceros lay kicking upon the ground, and I thought he was bagged. Not a bit of it! the No.

24 bullet had not force to break the massive shoulder bone, but had merely paralysed it for the moment; up he

jumped and started off in full gallop. Now for a hunt! up the hill he started, then obliquely he chose a regular

rhinoceros path, and scudded away, Tetel answering to the spur and closing with him; through the trees; now

down the hill over the loose rocks, where he gained considerably upon the horse. 'Easy down the hill, gently

over the stones, Tetel,' and I took a pull at the reins until I reached the level ground beneath, which was firm

and firstrate. I saw the rhinoceros pelting away about a hundred and twenty yards ahead, and spurring hard,

I shot up to him at full speed until within twenty yards, when round he came with astonishing quickness and

charged straight at the horse. I was prepared for this, as was my horse also; we avoided him by a quick turn,

and again renewed the chase, and regained our position within a few yards of the game. Thus the hunt

continued for about a mile and a half, the rhinoceros occasionally charging, but always cleverly avoided by

the horse. Tetel seemed to enjoy the fun, and hunted like a greyhound. Nevertheless I had not been able to

pass the rhinoceros, who had thundered along at a tremendous pace whenever I had attempted to close;

however, the pace began to tell upon his wounded shoulder; he evidently went lame, and, as I observed at

some distance before us the commencement of the darkcoloured rotten ground I felt sure that it would

shortly be a case of 'stand still.' In this I was correct, and, upon reaching the deep and crumbling soil, he

turned sharp round, made a clumsy charge that I easily avoided, and he stood panting at bay. Taher Noor was

riding Gazelle; this was a very timid horse and was utterly useless as a hunter, but, as it reared and plunged

upon seeing the rhinoceros, that animal immediately turned towards it with the intention of charging. Riding

Tetel close to his flank, I fired both barrels of the little Fletcher into the shoulder; he fell to the shots, and,

This was a capital termination to the hunt; as I had expected the death of my good horse Tetel, when the first

rhinoceros had so nearly horned him. The sun was like a furnace, therefore I rode straight to camp, and sent

men and camels for the hides and flesh. As I passed the body of the first rhinoceros, I found a regiment of

vultures already collected around it, while fresh arrivals took place every minute, as they gathered from all

quarters; they had already torn out the eyes, and dragged a portion of flesh from the bulletwound in the

shoulder; but the tough hide of the rhinoceros was proof against their greedy beaks. A number of Marabou

storks had also arrived, and were standing proudly among the crowd of vultures, preparing to perform the

duty of sextons, when the skin should become sufficiently decomposed. Throughout all the countries that I

had traversed, these birds were in enormous numbers. The question has been frequently discussed whether

the vulture is directed to his prey by the sense of smell, or by keenness of vision; I have paid much attention

to their habits, and, although there can be no question that their power of scent is great, I feel convinced that

all birds of prey are attracted to their food principally by their acuteness of sight. If a vulture were blind, it

would starve; but were the nostrils plugged up with some foreign substance to destroy its power of smell, it

would not materially interfere with its usual mode of hunting. Scent is always stronger near the surface of the

ground; thus hyaenas, lions, and other beasts of prey will scent a carcase from a great distance, provided they

are to leeward; but the same animals would be unaware of the presence of the body if they were but a short

If birds of prey trusted to their nostrils, they would keep as near the ground as possible, like the carrion crow,

which I believe is the exception that proves the rule. It is an astonishing sight to witness the sudden arrival of

vultures at the death of an animal, when a few moments before not a bird has been in sight in the cloudless

sky. I have frequently laid down beneath a bush after having shot an animal, to watch the arrival of the

various species of birds in regular succession; they invariably appear in the following order:

No. 1, the black and white crow: this knowing individual is most industrious in seeking for his food, and is

generally to be seen either perched upon rocks or upon trees; I believe he trusts much to his sense of smell, as

he is never far from the ground, at the same time he keeps a vigilant lookout with a very sharp pair of eyes.

No. 2 is the common buzzard: this bird, so well known for its extreme daring, is omnipresent, and trusts

generally to sight, as it will stoop at a piece of red cloth in mistake for flesh; thus proving that it depends

When employed in watching the habits of these birds, it is interesting to make the experiment of concealing a

dead animal beneath a dense bush. This I have frequently done; in which case the vultures never find it unless

they have witnessed its death; if so, they will already have pounced in their descent while you have been

engaged in concealing the body: they will then upon near approach discover it by the smell. But, if an animal

is killed in thick grass, eight or ten feet high, the vultures will seldom discover it. I have frequently known the

bodies of large animals, such as elephants and buffaloes, to lie for days beneath the shade of the dense

nabbuk bushes, unattended by a single vulture; whereas, if visible, they would have been visited by these

Vultures and the Marabou stork fly at enormous altitudes. I believe that every species keeps to its own

particular elevation, and that the atmosphere contains regular strata of birds of prey, who, invisible to the

human eye at their enormous height, are constantly resting upon their widespread wings, and soaring in

circles, watching with telescopic sight the world beneath. At that great elevation they are in an exceedingly

cool temperature, therefore they require no water; but some birds that make long flights over arid deserts,

such as the Marabou stork, and the buzzard, are provided with watersacks; the former in an external bag a

little below the throat, the latter in an internal sack, both of which carry a large supply. As the birds of prey

that I have enumerated, invariably appear at a carcase in their regular succession, I can only suggest that they

travel from different distances or altitudes. Thus, the Marabou stork would be farthest from the earth; the

large barenecked vulture would be the next below him, followed by the redfaced vulture, the buzzard, and

the crow that is generally about the surface. From their immense elevation, the birds of prey possess an

extraordinary field of vision; and, although they are invisible from the earth, there can be no doubt that they

are perpetually hunting in circles within sight of each other. Thus, should one bird discover some object upon

the surface of the earth below, his sudden pounce would be at once observed and imitated by every vulture in

succession. Should one vulture nearest the earth perceive a body, or even should he notice the buzzards

collecting at a given point, he would at once become aware of a prey; his rush towards the spot would act like

a telegraphic signal to others, that would be rapidly communicated to every vulture at successive airy

If any animal be skinned, the red surface will attract the vultures in an instant; this proves that their sight, and

not their scent, has been attracted by an object that suggests blood. I have frequently watched them when I

have shot an animal, and my people have commenced the process of skinning. At first, not a bird has been in

sight, as I have lain on my back and gazed into the spotless blue sky; but hardly has the skin been half

withdrawn, than specks have appeared in the heavens, rapidly increasing. "Caw, caw," has been heard several

times from the neighbouring bushes; the buzzards have swept down close to my people, and have snatched a

morsel of clotted blood from the ground. The specks have increased to winged creatures, at the great height

resembling flies, when presently a rushing sound behind me, like a whirlwind, has been followed by the

pounce of a redfaced vulture, that has fallen from the heavens in haste with closed wings to the bloody feast,

followed quickly by many of his brethren. The sky has become alive with black specks in the fardistant

blue, with wings hurrying from all quarters. At length a coronet of steady, soaring vultures, forms a wide

circle far above, as they hesitate to descend, but continue to revolve around the object of attraction. The great

barenecked vulture suddenly appears. The animal has been skinned, and the required flesh secured by the

men; we withdraw a hundred paces from the scene. A general rush and descent takes place; hundreds of

hungry beaks are tearing at the offal. The great barenecked vulture claims respect among the crowd; but

another form has appeared in the blue sky, and rapidly descends. A pair of long, ungainly legs, hanging down

beneath the enormous wings, now touch the ground, and Abou Seen (father of the teeth or beak, the Arab

name for the Marabou) has arrived, and he stalks proudly towards the crowds, pecking his way with his long

bill through the struggling vultures, and swallowing the lion's share of the repast. Abou Seen, last but not

least, had arrived from the highest region, while others had the advantage of the start. This bird is very

numerous through the Nile tributaries of Abyssinia, and may generally be seen perched upon the rocks of the

waterside, watching for small fish, or any reptile that may chance to come within his reach. The

On 14th April we left our camp in the afternoon, and, after marching nine miles, during which we passed two

small streams, flowing, like all others, from this point, west to the Atbara, we slept by a large pool in a third

stream of considerable size. A waterfall flowed over a row of perpendicular basalt columns that surrounded a

deep basin, resembling piles of ebony artificially arranged. On the following morning we started before

sunrise, and rode over the usual pathless burnt prairies, until we reached the base of Nahoot Guddabi, the

mountain for which we had been steering. Eight miles farther, we arrived at Metemma, a Tokroori village, in

the heart of the mountains, twentyseven miles from our last restingplace, and fiftyone miles from our

camp on the Salaam river. From this point to the river Salaam, the entire country slopes perceptibly to the

westthe drainage being carried to the Atbara by numerous streams. The country that we had now entered,

was inhabited exclusively by Tokrooris, although belonging to Abyssinia. They came out to meet us upon our

arrival at the village, and immediately fraternised with those of our people that belonged to their tribe, from

whom they quickly learnt all about us. They brought us a hegoat, together with milk and honey. The latter

we had revelled in for some months past, as the countries through which we travelled abounded with a supply

in the rocks and hollow trees; but the milk was a luxury, as our goats were nearly dry. The hegoat was a

regular old patriarch of the flock, and, for those who are fond of savoury food, it might have been a

temptation, but as it exhaled a perfume that rendered its presence unbearable, we were obliged to hand it over

as a present to our Tokrooriseven they turned up their noses at the offer. A crowd of natives surrounded us,

and the account of our travels was related with the usual excitement, amidst the ejaculations of the hearers,

when they heard that we had been in the country of the Base, and had trusted ourselves in the power of Mek

On the following morning we were off before sunrise, and marched rapidly over a good path through low

forest, at the foot of a range of hills; and after a journey of twenty miles, during which we had passed several

small villages, and many brooks that flowed from the mountains, we arrived at our old friend, the Atbara

river, at the sharp angle as it issues from the mountains. At this place it was in its infancy. The noble Atbara

whose course we had tracked for hundreds of weary miles, and whose tributaries we had so carefully

examined, was a secondclass mountam torrent, about equal to the Royan, and not to be named in

comparison with the Salaam or Angrab. The power of the Atbara depended entirely upon the western

drainage of the Abyssinian Alps: of itself it was insignificant, until aided by the great arteries of the mountain

chain. The junction of the Salaam at once changed its character; and the Settite or Taccazzy completed its

importance as the great river of Abyssinia, that has washed down the fertile soil of those regions to create the

Delta of Lower Egypt; and to perpetuate that Delta by annual deposits, that ARE NOW FORMING A NEW

EGYPT BENEATH THE WATERS OF THE MEDITERRANEAN. We had seen the Atbara a bed of glaring

sanda mere continuation of the burning desert that surrounded its course, fringed by a belt of withered

trees, like a monument sacred to the memory of a dead river. We had seen the sudden rush of waters when, in

the still night, the mysterious stream had invaded the dry bed, and swept all before it like an awakened giant;

we knew at that moment "the rains were falling in Abyssinia," although the sky above us was without a

cloud. We had subsequently witnessed that tremendous rainfall, and seen the Atbara at its grandest flood. We

had traced each river, and crossed each tiny stream, that fed the mighty Atbara from the mountain chain, and

we now, after our long journey, forded the Atlara in its infancy, hardly knee deep, over its rocky bed of about

sixty yards width, and camped in the little village of Toganai, on the rising ground upon the opposite side. It

was evening, and we sat upon an angarep among the lovely hills that surrounded us, and looked down upon

the Atbara for the last time, as the sun sank behind the rugged mountain of Ras el Feel (the elephant's head).

Once more I thought of that wonderful river Nile, that could flow for ever through the exhausting deserts of

sand, while the Atbara, during the summer months, shrank to a dry skeleton, although the powerful affluents,

the Salaam and the Settite, never ceased to flow, every drop of their waters was evaporated by the air and

absorbed by the desert sand in the bed of the Atbara, two hundred miles above its junction with the Nile!

The Atbara exploration was completed; and I looked forward to the fresh enterprise of new rivers and lower

WE left the village of Toganai at 5 A.M. and, after a rapid march of sixteen miles, we came in view of

Metemma, or Gallabat, in the bottom of a valley surrounded by hills, and backed on the east by the range of

mountains of which Nahoot Guddabi formed the extremity of a spur. As we descended the valley, we

perceived great crowds of people in and about the town, which, in appearance, was merely a repetition of

Katariff. It was marketday, and as we descended the hill and arrived in the scene below, with our nine

camels heavily laden with the heads and horns of a multitude of different beasts, from the gaping jaws of

hippopotami to the viciouslooking heads of rhinoceros and buffalo, while the skins of lions and various

antelopes were piled above masses of the muchprized hide of the rhinoceros, we were beset by crowds of

people who were curious to know whence so strange a party had appeared. We formed a regular procession

through the market, our Tokrooris feeling quite at home among so many of their brethren. Upon our arrival at

the extremity of the valley, we were horribly disgusted at the appearance of the water. A trifling stream of

about two inches in depth trickled over a bed of sand, shaded by a grove of trees. The putrefying bodies of

about half a dozen donkeys, three or four camels, and the remains of a number of horses, lay in and about the

margin of the water. Nevertheless, the natives had scraped small holes in the sand, as filters, and thus they

were satisfied with this poisonous fluid; in some of these holes, the women were washing their filthy clothes.

I immediately determined to follow up stream, until I should arrive at some clear spot above these horrible

impurities, that were sufficient to create a pestilence. Ascending the rising ground, I found on the summit, at

about half a mile distant, an immense sycamore (Ficus sycamorus), whose green and widespreading

branches afforded a tempting shade. Not far from this spot, I found the bed of a dry torrent that flowed into

the poisoned stream of Gallabat. I ordered my men to dig a deep hole in the sand, which fortunately

discovered clear and goodflavoured water. We immediately pitched tents close to the sycamore. From this

elevation, about a hundred and fifty feet above Gallabat, we had a beautiful view of the amphitheatre of hills

and mountains, while the crowded town lay below, as in the bottom of a basin. The Atbara was not far distant

in the ravine between the hill ranges, as it had made a sharp angle at Toganai, and altered its direction to the

Our arrival had made some stir in Gallabat, and many people had followed us, and stared with much curiosity

at the collection of hunting trophies. Among our visitors was an Abyssinian merchant, Jusef, whose

acquaintance I had formerly made at Cassala; he was an agreeable and wellinformed man, who had been in

Paris and London and spoke French and English tolerably. I accompanied him for a stroll through the market,

and was introduced by him to a number of the principal Abyssinian merchants. The principal trade of

Gallabat, which is the marketplace for all commerce between Abyssinia and the Egyptian provinces, is in

cotton, coffee, bees'wax, and hides. Coffee is brought in large quantities by the Abyssinian merchants, who

buy cotton in exchange, for the manufacture of clothes according to their own fashion. I bought a quantity of

excellent coffee at the rate of two dollars for thirtyfive pounds, equal to about two and threequarters pence

a pound. Sheds were arranged in lines; these were occupied by the coffee merchants with their stores, while a

great stock of cotton in bales, to the number of some thousand, were piled in rows in an open space. Not far

from the mass of goods was a confusion of camels, asses, and mules that had formed the means of transport. I

now met an Italian merchant, with whom I subsequently became intimately acquainted, Signor Angelo

Bolognesihe had arrived from Khartoum to purchase coffee and bees'wax. We were delighted to meet a

civilized European after so long an absence. For some months we had had little intercourse with any human

beings beyond the hunters that had composed our party, in countries that were so wild and savage, that the

print of a naked foot upon the sand had instinctively brought the rifle upon full cock. Our European society

was quickly increased: two German missionaries had arrived, en ronte for an establishment that had been set

on foot in the heart of Abyssinia, under the very nose of the King Theodore, who regarded missionaries as an

unsavoury odour. Both were suffering from fever, having foolishly located themselves in a hut close to the

foul stench of dead animals on the margin of the polluted stream, the water of which they drank. One of these

preachers was a blacksmith, whose iron constitution had entirely given way, and the little strength that

remained, he exhausted in endless quotations of texts from the Bible, which he considered applicable to every

trifling event or expression. I regretted that I could not agree with him in the propriety of invading Abyssinia

with Bible extracts, as the natives attached as great importance to their own particular form of Christianity, as

any other of the numerous sects that unhappily divide that beautiful religion into schisms; any fresh dogma

introduced by strangers might destroy the union of the Abyssinian Church, and would be not only a source of

annoyance to the priesthood, but would most probably influence them and the king against all Europeans.

The blacksmith assured me that the special mission upon which he was employed was the conversion of the

Abyssinian Jews. I suggested that we had a few Jews in England, that might offer a fair field for an

experiment at home, before we commenced at so distant a country as Abyssinia; but I could not persuade the

blacksmith, whose head was as hard as his anvil; he had fully persuaded himself that the word of God

(according to HIS OWN translation of it) was the hammer with which, selon son metier, he was to drive his

views of the truth into the thick skulls of the people. If he could twist iron, and hammer a ploughshare into a

sword, or reverse the form, why should he be unable to effect a change in their opinions? It was perfectly

useless to continue the argument; but I prophesied trouble, as the king was already discontented, and an

influx of missionaries would not improve his humour. I advised him to stick to his trade, which would obtain

for him far more respect than preaching. He replied, that "the word of God must be preached in all countries;

that the Apostle Paul had encountered dangers and difficulties, but, nevertheless, he preached to, and

Whenever I have met an exceedingly ignorant missionary, he has invariably compared himself to the Apostle

Paul. In half an hour I found, that I was conversing with St. Paul in the person of the blacksmith. Whether

this excellent apostle is among the captives in Abyssinia at the present moment, I do not know; but, if so,

their memory of the Bible will be continally refreshed by quotations, which fly from the tongue of the smith

like sparks from his anvil. His companion was very ill, and incapable of moving. I went to see the poor fellow

upon several occasions, and found him suffering from dysentery and diseased liver. These excellent but

misguided people had a firstrate medicine chest, filled with useful drugs and deadly poisons, that had been

provided for them cheaply, by the agent for their society at Cairo, who had purchased the stock in trade of a

defunct doctor. This had been given to the missionaries, together with the caution that many of the bottles

were not labelled, and that some contained poison. Thus provided with a medicine chest that they did not

comprehend, and with a number of Bibles printed in the Tigre language which they did not understand, they

were prepared to convert the Jews, who could not read. The Bibles were to be distributed as the word of God,

like "seed thrown upon the wayside;" and the medicines, I trust, were to be kept locked up in the chest, as

their distribution might have been fatal to the poor Jews. These worthy and wellmeaning missionaries were

prepared to operate mentally and physically upon the Abyssinians, to open their minds as well as their

bowels; but as their own (not their minds) were out of order, I was obliged to assist them by an examination

of their medicinechest, which they had regarded with such dread and suspicion that, although dangerously

ill, they had not dared to attempt a dose. This medicinechest accompanied them like a pet dog suspected of

hydrophobia, which they did not like to part with, and were yet afraid to touch. I labelled the poisons, and

weighed out some doses, that in a few days considerably relieved them; at the same time I advised the

On the day following our arrival, I paid a visit to the Sheik of GallabatJemma. He was ill, as were most

people. They were too much accustomed to the use of the filthy water to trouble themselves about a pure

The Sheik Jemma was a Tokroori; and as these people hate the Turks or Egyptians, although fanatical

Mussulmans, he was exceedingly cold when he read my firman, that I had produced as a passport. He replied

to my demand for assistance in men and camels, that "this was Abyssinia, and the firman of the Viceroy of

Egypt was a bad introduction, as the Egyptians forced them to pay tribute at the point of the bayonet,

although they had no right to enter this country;" they paid taxes willingly to the King of Abyssinia, as he had

a right to exact them. I explained that I was an Englishman, and no Turk, but that, as I had travelled through

the dominions of the Viceroy, I had been favoured with the signmanual of his Excellency Said Pasha, and I

narrated in a few words the object of our expedition. He paid very little attention, and merely asked me if I

could send him some goat's milk, as he was very ill. I was astonished at such a request, as there were great

numbers of these animals in the neighbourhood; but he explained that his doctor had ordered him to drink the

milk of a black goat, and he had heard that I had two of that colour. I promised him a supply, and he agreed to

assist me in engaging camels and fresh men, as I had formerly arranged with my people that their term of

service should expire upon our arrival at Gallabat or Metemma. The latter name merely signifies "the

capital:" as many places are designated by the same word, it creates much confusion.

The Sheik Jemma was the successor of Hamed, who formerly governed the Tokrooris. The Egyptians had

captured Hamed three years previously, during which time he had been imprisoned in Cairo. Upon his

release, he wrote to Jemma (who had governed pro tempore) to prepare for his arrival; but Jemma had no

intention of vacating his seat, and he replied by an impertinent message. Hamed immediately applied to the

GovernorGeneral of the Soudan for assistance, declaring himself to be the subject of Egypt. Having

obtained a powerful force, he advanced upon Gallabat, and attacked Jemma, who came out to meet him. This

happened about three months before our arrival. In a pitched battle, the Tokrooris were defeated with great

loss, and Jemma, with the greater portion of the population, sought the assistance of Theodore, the king of

Abyssinia. Theodore summoned the rival chiefs before him, and decided that, as Hamed had appealed to

Egypt for assistance, he should lose his seat, and remain a prisoner in Abyssinia. Accordingly, Jemma was

declared to be the governor of the town of Gallabat, and the sheik over all Tokrooris.

The Tokrooris are natives of Darfur, who were converted to Mahometanism after the conquest of Northern

Africa by the Arabs. They are governed by a sultan in their own country, who strictly prohibits the entrance

of white men; thus Darfur remains impenetrable to civilization. That country is extremely arid and unfruitful;

thus, as the pilgrims journeyed towards Mecca from their own inhospitable soil, they passed through a land

flowing with milk and honey, with excellent pasturage and fertile soil, in the district of Gallabat. As first

settlements of men have always been caused by some local attraction and advantage, so the Tokroori

pilgrims, on their return from Mecca, originally rested from the fatigues of their journey in the

neighbourhood of Gallabat, as a country preferable to their own. The establishment of a few settlers formed a

nucleus, and, as successive pilgrimages to Mecca were annually undertaken from Darfur, the colony rapidly

increased by the settlement of the returned pilgrims. Thus commenced the establishment of a new tribe upon

foreign soil, and, as the numbers of settlers increased to an important amount, permission was granted by the

King of Abyssinia that they should occupy this portion of his territory, upon payment of taxes as his subjects.

The Tokrooris are a fine, powerful race, exceedingly black, and of the negro type, but differing from all

negroes that I have hitherto known, as they are particularly industrious. They are great drunkards, very

quarrelsome, and are bad servants, as, although they will work hard for themselves, they will do as little as

they can for their master. They are seldom unemployed; and, while the Arab may be seen lazily stretched

under the shade of a tree, the Tokroori will be spinning cotton, or working at something that will earn a few

piastres. Even during the march, I have frequently seen my men gather the cotton from some deserted bush,

and immediately improvise a spindle, by sticking a reed through a piece of cameldung, with which they

would spin the wool into thread, as they walked with the caravan. My Tokrooris had never been idle during

the time they had been in my service, but they were at work in the camp during every spare minute, either

employed in making sandals from elephant's or buffalo's hide, or whips and bracelets from the rhinoceros'

skin, which they cleverly polished. Upon our arrival at Gallabat, they had at least a camelload of all kinds of

articles they had manufactured. On the following morning I found them sitting in the marketplace, having

established stalls, at which they were selling all the various trophies of their expeditionfat, hides, whips,

The district inhabited by the Tokrooris is about forty miles in length, including a population of about twenty

thousand. Throughout the country, they have cultivated cotton to a considerable extent, notwithstanding the

double taxes enforced by both Abyssinians and Egyptians, and their gardens are kept with extreme neatness.

Although of the negro type, the Tokrooris have not the flat nose; the lips are full, but not to be compared with

those of the negroes of West Africa; neither is the jaw prognathous. The men are extremely independent in

manner. They are armed with lances of various patterns; their favourite weapon is a horrible instrument

barbed with a diabolical intention, as it can neither be withdrawn nor pushed completely through the body,

but, if once in the flesh, there it must remain. This is called the chimbane; it is usually carried with two other

lances with plain heads. The Tokrooris despise shields; therefore, in spite of their superior personal strength,

There is a curious weapon, the trombash, that is used by these people, somewhat resembling the Australian

boomerang; it is a piece of flat, hard wood, about two feet in length, the end of which turns sharply at an

angle of about 30 degrees. They throw this with great dexterity, and inflict severe wounds with the hard and

sharp edge; but, unlike the boomerang, the weapon does not return to the thrower.

The women are very powerful, but exceedingly plain. They are good workers, and may be constantly seen

either spinning or weaving; they keep their huts remarkably clean, and are rarely idle.

The greater portion of the cotton exhibited in the market of Gallabat is produced by the Tokrooris; it is

uncleaned, and simply packed in mat bales of a hundred pounds weight, which at that date (April 1862) sold

Much might be done to improve these peculiar people. Were the frontiers of Abyssinia positively determined,

and security insured to the new settlers, the whole of that magnificent country through which we had

travelled between the Settite and Gallabat might be peopled and cultivated. In many countries, both soil and

climate may be favourable for the cultivation of cotton; but such natural advantages may be neutralized either

by the absence of population, or by the indolence of the natives. The Tokroori is a most industrious labourer;

and, were he assured of protection and moderate taxation, he would quickly change the character of these

fertile lands, that are now uninhabited, except by wild animals. If the emigration of Tokrooris from Darfur

were encouraged, and advantages offered to settlers, by grants of land for a short term exempt from taxation,

at a future time to bear a certain rate per acre, a multitude of emigrants would quit their own inhospitable

country, and would people the beautiful waste lands of the Settite and the Salaam. These countries would

produce an important supply of cotton, that might be delivered at Souakim at an exceedingly low rate, and

find a market in England. Not only would the Tokrooris benefit by the change, but, should it be decided that

the Abyssinian frontier, instead of extending to the Atbara river, should be confined to the ridge of the great

mountain chain, the revenues of Upper Egypt might be enormously increased by the establishment of a

I paid all my Tokrooris their wages, and I gave them an entertainment after their own taste, by purchasing

several enormous bowls of honey wine. The Abyssinians are celebrated for this drink, which is known as

"tetch." It is made of various strengths; that of good quality should contain, in ten parts, two of honey and

eight of water; but, for a light wine, one of honey and nine of water is very agreeable. There is a plant of an

intoxicating quality known by the Abyssinians as "jershooa," the leaves of which are added to the tetch while

in a state of fermentation; a strong infusion of these leaves will render the tetch exceedingly heady, but

without this admixture the honey wine is by no means powerful. In our subsequent journey in Central Africa,

I frequently made the tetch by a mixture of honey and water, flavoured with wild thyme and powdered

ginger; fermentation was quickly produced by the addition of yeast from the native beer, and the wine, after

six or eight days, became excellent, but never very strong, as we could not procure the leaves of the jershooa.

My Arabs and Tokrooris enjoyed themselves amazingly, and until late at night they were playing rababas

(guitars) and howling in thorough happiness; but on the following morning at sunrise I was disturbed by Wat

Gamma, who complained that during the night some person had stolen three dollars, that had for some

months been carefully sewn up in his clothes; he exhibited the garment that bore the unmistakeable

impression of the dollars, and the freshlycut ends of the thread proved that it had been ripped open very

recently. Of course I was magistrate, and in all cases I was guided by my own code of laws, being at some

Wat Gamma had no suspicion of any person in particular, but his money had evidently been stolen.

"Who was drunk last night?" I inquired. "We were all drunk," replied the plaintiff. "Who was very drunk, and

who was the least drunk?" I inquired. This entailed a discussion among the people who had now assembled. It

appeared that most of them had been "very drunk;" others only a little drunk; and one old whiteheaded Arab

cameldriver had been perfectly sober, as he never drank anything but water. This was old Mini, a splendid

specimen of a fine patriarchal Arab; he declared that he had not even joined the party. Wat Gamma had left

his garment rolled up in the mat upon which he usually slept; this was in the same spot where the

cameldrivers lived, and where old Mini declared he was fast asleep during the drinking bout.

I had my suspicions, but to express them would have defeated the chance of discovery. I therefore adopted

my usual rule in cases of theft. I counted my people: nine camelmen, five Tokrooris, Taher Noor, and

Bacheet; in all sixteen, without Wat Gamma. Three dollars were sixty piastres,sixty divided by sixteen

equalled three piastres and thirty paras. Thus I condemned the whole party to make up the loss, by each

This plan was generally successful, as the thief was the only man contented with the arrangement. Every

innocent man became a detective, as he was determined not to pay a fine for another's theft. A tremendous

row took place, every one was talking and no one listening, and the crowd went away from my court of

In about half an hour they all returned, with the exception of old Mini; they had searched everywhere, and

had found three dollars concealed in the stuffing of a camel's saddle, that belonged to Mini. He was the sober

man, who had been asleep while the others were drinking. I considered the case proved; and Mini, having

confessed, requested that I would flog him rather than deliver him to the Tokroori authorities, who wonld

imprison him and take away his camel. I told him that I would not disgrace his tribe by flogging one of their

oldest men, but that I should take him before the Sheik of Gallabat, and fine him the amount that he had

stolen. This I immediately did, and Mini handed over to Jemma, with reluctance, three dollars for the

On my return to camp I visited the establishments of the various slave merchants: these were arranged under

large tents formed of matting, and contained many young girls of extreme beauty, ranging from nine to

seventeen years of age. These lovely captives, of a rich brown tint, with delicatelyformed features, and eyes

like those of the gazelle, were natives of the Galla, on the borders of Abyssinia, from which country they

were brought by the Abyssinian traders to be sold for the Turkish harems. Although beautiful, these girls are

useless for hard labour; they quickly fade away and die unless kindly treated. They are the Venuses of that

country, and not only are their faces and figures perfection, but they become extremely attached to those who

show them kindness, and they make good and faithful wives. There is something peculiarly captivating in the

natural grace and softness of these young beauties, whose hearts quickly respond to those warmer feelings of

love that are seldom known among the sterner and coarser tribes. Their forms are peculiarly elegant and

gracefulthe hands and feet are exquisitely delicate; the nose is generally slightly aquiline, the nostrils large

and finely shaped; the hair is black and glossy, reaching to about the middle of the back, but rather coarse in

texture. These girls, although natives of Galla, invariably call themselves Abyssinians, and are generally

known under that denomination. They are exceedingly proud and highspirited, and are remarkably quick at

learning. At Khartoum, several of the Europeans of high standing have married these charming ladies, who

have invariably rewarded their husbands by great affection and devotion. The price of one of these beauties

On the 24th April we were refreshed by a shower of rain, and in a few days the grass sprang from the ground

several inches high. There was an unpleasant dampness in the air, and, although the rainy season would not

commence until June, showers would occasionally fall among the mountains throughout the month of May. I

accordingly purchased a number of large tanned oxhides, that are rendered waterproof by a preparation with

milk. These skins cost the trifling sum of nine piastres each (not two shillings), and were subsequently of

great value during our White Nile expedition, as coverlets during the night's bivouac,

The horsefair was a disappointment. At this season the entire country in the neighbourhood of Gallabat was

subject to an epidemic, fatal to these animals; therefore there were no good horses present. I had nothing to

detain me at this place, after having procured fresh camels, therefore I paid all my people, and we parted

excellent friends. To the Arabs and Tokrooris I gave all the hides of rhinoceros, elephants, that I did not

require, and, with our loads considerably lightened, we started from Gallabat, 12.30 P.M., 28th April, 1862,

and marched due west towards the river Rahad. The country was hilly and wooded, the rocks were generally

sandstone, and after a march of three hours we halted at a Tokroori village. I never witnessed more

unprovoked insolence than was exhibited by these people. They considered me to be a Turk, to whom their

natural hatred had been increased by the chastisement they had lately received from the Egyptians. It was in

vain that my two lads, Wat Gamma and Bacheet, assured them that I was an Englishman: they had never

heard of such a country as England; in their opinion, a white man must be a Turk. Not contented with

refusing all supplies, they assembled in large numbers and commenced a quarrel with my men, several of

whom were Tokrooris that I had hired to accompany us to Khartoum. These men, being newly engaged and

entirely strange, were of little service; but, having joined in the quarrel like true Tokrooris, who are always

ready for a row, the altercation grew so hot that it became rather serious. The natives determined that we

should not remain in their village, and, having expressed a threat to turn us out, they assembled around us in a

large crowd with their lances and trombashes. My wife was sitting by me upon an angarep, when the people

closed around my men, and one very tall specimen of a Tokroori came forward, and, snatching a knife from

its sheath that was worn upon the arm of my servant, he challenged him to fight. As Tokrooris are always

more or less under the influence of drink, their fights are generally the effect of some sudden impulse. It was

necessary to do something, as the crowd were determined upon a row; this was now commenced by their

leader, who was eyeing me from head to foot with the most determined insolence, holding the knife in his

hand that he had taken from my man. I therefore rose quietly from my seat, and, approaching him to within a

convenient distance for striking, if necessary, I begged him very politely to leave my people to themselves, as

we should depart on the following morning. He replied with great impertinence, and insisted upon fighting

one or all of our party. I accommodated him without a moment's delay, as, stepping half a pace backwards, I

came in with a left and right as fast as a rapid doublehit could be delivered, with both blows upon his

impudent mouth. In an instant he was on his back, with his heels in the air; and, as I prepared to operate upon

his backer, or upon any bystander who might have a penchant for fighting, the crowd gave way, and

immediately devoted themselves to their companion, who lay upon the ground in stupid astonishment, with

his fingers down his throat searching for a tooth; his eyes were fixed upon my hands to discover the weapon

with which he had been wounded. His friends began to wipe the blood from his face and clothes, and at this

To my astonishment he was extremely civil; a sudden reaction had taken place, the Tokrooris had had their

row, and were apparently satisfied. The sheik begged me not to kill his people by hitting them, "as they were

mere chickens, who would at once die if I were to strike them with my fist." I begged him to keep his

"chickens" in better order, and at once to order them away from our immediate neighbourhood. In a few

minutes the sheik drove the crowd away, who picked up their man and led him off. The sheik then begged us

On the following morning, we left shortly after sunrise; the natives very civilly assisted to load our camels,

and among the most active was my fighting friend of yesterday, who, with his nose and mouth all swollen

into one, had been rapidly converted from a wellfeatured Tokroori into a real thicklipped, flatnosed

African nigger, with prognathous jaw, that would have delighted the Ethnological Society.

"April 29.It rained hard during the night. Our course was due west, along the banks of a hor, from which

the natives procure water by sinking wells about twelve feet deep in the sandy bed, which is dry in the hot

season. Throughout this country the water is bad. At 11 A.M. we reached Roumele; this is the last village

between Gallabat and the river Rahad. The natives say that there is no water on the road, and their accounts

of the distance are so vague and contradictory that I cannot rely upon the information.

"I could procure only one waterskin, and none of my old stock were serviceable; I therefore arranged to

water all the animals, and push on throughout the night, by which plan I hoped to arrive by a forced march at

the Rahad on the following morning, without exhausting both men and beasts by a long journey through an

unknown distance in the heat of the sun. Hardly were the horses watered at a well in the dry bed of the

stream, when Aggahr was taken ill with inflammation. I left two men to attend upon him, with orders to bring

him on if better on the following day: we started on our journey, but we had not proceeded a quarter of a mile

when Gazelle, that I was riding, was also seized with illness, and fell down; with the greatest difficulty I led

the horse back again to the village. My good old hunter Aggahr died in great agony a few minutes after our

return, and Gazelle died during the night; the natives declared this to be the horse sickness that was annually

prevalent at this season. The disease appeared to be inflammation of the bowels, which I attributed to the

sudden change of food; for months past they had lived principally upon dry grass, but within the past few

days they had greedily eaten the young herbage that had appeared after a few showers; with this, may have

been poisonous plants that they had swallowed unawares. We had now only one horse, Tetel, that was ridden

by my wife; I therefore determined to start on foot on the following morning, and to set the pace at four miles

an hour, so as to reach the Rahad by a forced march in one rapid stretch, and thus to eke out our scanty supply

of water. Accordingly we started, and marched at that rate for ten hours, including a halt when halfway, to

rest for one hour and a half. Throughout the distance, the country was a dead flat of the usual rich soil,

covered with mimosa forest. We marched thirtyfour miles, steering due west for a distant hill, which in the

"Upon our arrival at the hill, we found that the river was some miles beyond, while a fine rugged mountain

that we had seen for two days previous rose about fifteen miles south of this point, and formed an

unmistakeable landmark; the name of this mountain is Hallowa. We had marched with such rapidity across

this stretch of thirtyfour miles, that our men were completely exhausted from thirst, as they had foolishly

drunk their share of water at the middle of the journey, instead of reserving it for the moment of distress.

Upon arrival at the Rahad they rushed down the steep bank, and plunged into the clear water of the river.

"The Rahad does not exceed eighty or ninety yards in breadth. The rain that had recently fallen in the

mountain had sent a considerable stream down the hitherto dry bed, although the bottom was not entirely

covered. By dead reckoning, this point of the river is fiftyfive miles due west from Gallabat or Metemma;

throughout this distance we had seen no game, neither the tracks of any animals except giraffes. We were

rather hard up for provisions, therefore I took my rod, and tried for a fish in a deep pool below the spot where

we had pitched the tent. I only had one run, but I fortunately landed a handsome little baggar about twelve

pounds weight, which afforded us a good dinner. The river Dinder is between fifty and sixty miles from the

Rahad at this point, but towards the north the two rivers approximate closely, and keep a course almost

parallel. The banks of the Rahad are in many places perpendicular, and are about fortyfive feet above the

bed. This river flows through rich alluvial soil; the country is a vast level plane, with so trifling a fall that the

current of the river is gentle; the course is extremely circuitous, and although, when bank full, the Rahad

possesses a considerable volume, it is very inferior as a Nile tributary to any river that I have visited to the

WE daily followed the banks of the Rahad, the monotony of which I will not inflict upon the public. This

country was a vast tract of wonderfully fertile prairie, that nearly formed an island, surrounded by the Rahad,

Blue Nile, Great Nile, and Atbara; it was peopled by various tribes of Arabs, who cultivated a considerable

extent upon the banks of the Rahad, which for upwards of a hundred miles to the north were bordered with

villages at short intervals. Cotton and tobacco were produced largely, and we daily met droves of camels

laden with these goods, en route for the Abyssinian market. We had now fairly quitted Abyssinian territory,

and upon our arrival at the Rahad we were upon the soil of Upper Egypt. I was much struck with the

extraordinary size and condition of the cattle. Corn (dhurra) was so plentiful that it was to be purchased in

any quantity for eight piastres the rachel, or about 1s. 8d. for 500 pounds; pumpkins were in great quantities,

with a description of gourd with an exceedingly strong shell, which is grown especially for bowls and other

utensils; camelloads of these gourdbasins packed in conical crates were also journeying on the road

towards Gallabat. Throughout the course of the Rahad the banks are high, and, when full, the river would

average forty feet in depth, with a gentle stream, the course free from rocks and shoals, and admirably

The entire country would be a mine of wealth were it planted with cotton, which could be transported by

camels to Katariff, and thence direct to Souakim. We travelled for upwards of a hundred miles along the

river, through the unvarying scene of flat alluvial soil; the south bank was generally covered with low jungle.

The Arabs were always civil, and formed a marked contrast to the Tokrooris; they were mostly of the Roofar

tribe. Although there had been a considerable volume of water in the river at the point where we had first met

it, the bed was perfectly dry about fifty miles farther north, proving the great power of absorption by the sand.

The Arabs obtained water from deep pools in the river, similar to those in the Atbara, but on a small scale, of

not sufficient importance to contain hippopotami, which at this season retired to the river Dinder. Wherever

we slept we were besieged by gaping crowds of Arabs: these people were quite unaccustomed to strangers, as

the route we had chosen along the banks of the Rahad was entirely out of the line adopted by the native

merchants and traders of Khartoum, who travelled via Abou Harraz and Katariff to Gallabat. These Arabs

were, as usual, perfectly wild, and ignorant of everything that did not immediately concern them. My

compass had always been a source of wonder to the natives, and I was asked whether by looking into it I

rould distinguish the "market days" of the different villages. My own Tokrooris continually referred to me for

information on various topics, and, if I declined to reply, they invariably begged me to examine my moondera

(mirror), as they termed the compass, and see what it would say. This country swarmed with Arabs, and

abounded in supplies: superb fat oxen were seven dollars each; large fowls were a penny; and eggs were at

We arrived at a large village, Sherrem, on May 11, having marched 118 miles in a straight line along the

course of the Rahad. The heat was extreme, but I had become so thoroughly accustomed to the sun that I did

not feel it so much as my men, whose heads were covered with a thin cap of cotton (the tageea). My

camelmen had expected to find their families at a village that we had passed about six miles from Sherrem,

and they had been rejoicing in anticipation, but on arrival we found it deserted,"family out of town;" the

men were quite dejected; but upon arrival at Sherrem they found all their people, who had migrated for water,

as the river was dry. We waited at Sherrem for a couple of days to rest the men, whose feet were much

swollen with marching on the burning soil. Although frequent showers had fallen at Gallabat, we had quickly

entered the dry country upon steering north, where neither dew nor rain had moistened the ground for many

months. The country was treeless on the north bank of the Rahad, and the rich alluvial soil was free from a

single stone or pebble for many miles. Although for 118 miles we had travelled along the course of the

Rahad, throughout this distance only one small brook furrowed the level surface and added its waters during

the rainy season to the river; the earth absorbed the entire rainfall. Our camels were nearly driven mad by the

On the 15th of May we arrived at Kook, a small village on the banks of the Rahad, and on the following

morning we started to the west for the river Dinder. The country was the usual rich soil, but covered with

high grass and bush; it was uninhabited, except by wandering Arabs and their flocks, that migrate at the

commencement of the rainy season, when this land becomes a mere swamp, and swarms with the seroot fly.

At 6.30 we halted, and slept on the road. This was the main route to Sennaar, from which place strings of

camels were passing to the Rahad, to purchase corn. On the 16th of May, we started by moonlight at 4.30

A.M. due west, and at 7.30 A.M. we arrived at the river Dinder, which, at this point, was eighteen miles from

We joined a camp of the Kunana Arabs, who at this season throng the banks of the Dinder. This river is

similar in character to the Rahad, but larger: the average breadth is about a hundred and ten yards: the banks

are about fifty feet high, and the immediate vicinity is covered with thick jungle of nabbuk and thorny

acacias, with a great quantity of the Acacia Arabica, that produces the garra, already described as valuable for

tanning leather. I made ink with this fruit, pounded and boiled, to which I added a few rusty nails, and

allowed it to stand for about twentyfour hours. The Dinder was exceedingly deep in many places, although

in others the bed was dry, with the exception of a most trifling stream that flowed through a narrow channel

in the sand, about an inch in depth. The Arabs assured me that the crocodiles in this river were more

dangerous than in any other, and their flocks of goats and sheep were attended by a great number of boys, to

prevent the animals from descending to the water to drink, except in such places as had been prepared for

them by digging small holes in the sand. I saw many of these creatures, of very large size; and, as I strolled

along the banks of the river, I found a herd of hippopotami, of which I shot two, to the great delight of my

people, who had been much disappointed at the absence of game throughout our journey from Gallabat. We

had travelled upwards of 200 miles without having seen so much as a gazelle, neither had we passed any

tracks of large game, except, upon one occasion, those of a few giraffes. I had been told that the Dinder

country was rich in game, but, at this season, it was swarming with Arabs, and was so much disturbed that

everything had left the country, and the elephants merely drank during the night, and retreated to distant and

impenetrable jungles. At night we heard a lion roar, but this, instead of being our constant nightingale, as

upon the Settite river, was now an uncommon sound. The maneless lion is found on the banks of the Dinder;

all that I saw, in the shape of game, in the neighbourhood of that river and the Rahad, were a few

hippopotami and crocodiles. The stream of the Dinder is obstructed with many snags and trunks of fallen

trees that would be serious obstacles to rapid navigation: these are the large stems of the soont (Acacia

Arabica), that, growing close to the edge, have fallen into the river when the banks have given way. I was

astonished at the absence of elephants in such favourable ground; for some miles I walked along the margin

of the river without seeing a track of any date. Throughout this country, these animals are so continually

hunted that they have become exceedingly wary, and there can be little doubt that their numbers are much

reduced. Even in the beautiful shooting country comprised between the river Gash and Gallabat, although we

had excellent sport, I had been disappointed at the number of elephants, which I had expected to find in herds

of many hundreds, instead of forty or fifty, which was the largest number that I had seen together. The habits

of all animals generally depend upon the nature of the localities they inhabit. Thus, as these countries were

subject to long drought and scarcity of water, the elephants were, in some places, contented with drinking

every alternate day. Where they were much hunted by the aggageers, they would seldom drink twice

consecutively in the same river; but, after a long draught in the Settite, they would march from twentyfive to

thirty miles, and remain for a day between that river and the Mareb or Gash, to which they would hurry on

the following night. At other times, these wily animals would drink in the Settite, and retire to the south;

feeding upon Mek Nimmur's cornfields, they would hurry forward to the river Salaam, about thirty miles

distant, and from thence, in a similar manner, either to the Atbara on one side, or into the Abyssinian

mountains, where, at all times, they could procure a supply of water. I have frequently discovered fresh grains

of dhurra in their dung, at a great distance from the nearest cornfield; when the rapid digestion of the

elephant is considered, it must be allowed that the fresh dung found in the morning bore witness to the theft

of corn during the past night; thus the elephant had marched many miles after feeding. In the "Rifle and

Hound in Ceylon," published in 1854, I gave a detailed description of the elephants of that country, which,

although peculiar in the general absence of tusks, are the same as the Indian species.

Although the elephant is found throughout many countries, extending over an enormous area, there are only

two species at present in existence,the Indian and African; these are totally different in their habits, and are

distinguished by peculiarities of form. The most striking difference is in the shape of the head and spine. The

head of the Indian species is perfectly distinct; the forehead, when held in the natural position of inaction, is

perpendicular; and above the slight convexity at the root of the trunk there is a depression, in shape like a

herald's shield: a bullet in the lower portion of that shield would reach the brain in a direct line. The head of

the African elephant is completely convex from the commencement of the trunk to the back of the skull, and

the brain is situated much lower than in that of the Indian species; the bone is of a denser quality, and the

cases for the reception of the tusks are so closely parallel, that there is barely room for a bullet to find a

chance of penetrating to the brain; it must be delivered in the exact centre, and extremely low, in the very root

of the trunk; even then it will frequently pass above the brain, as the animal generally carries his head high,

and thrown slightly back. The teeth of the African elephant differ materially from those of the Indian, by

containing a lesser number of laminae or plates, the surfaces of which, instead of exhibiting straight and

parallel lines like those of the Indian, are shaped in slight curves, which increase the power of grinding. The

ears of the African species are enormous, and when thrown back they completely cover the shoulders; they

are also entirely different in shape from those of the Indian species. When an African bull elephant advances

in full charge with his ears cocked, his head measures about fourteen feet from the tip of one ear to that of the

other, in a direct line across the forehead. I have frequently cut off the ear to form a mat, upon which I have

The back of the Indian elephant is exceedingly convex; that of the African is exactly the reverse, and the

concavity behind the shoulders is succeeded by a peculiarity in the sudden rise of the spine above the hips.

The two species are not only distinct in certain peculiarities of form, but they differ in their habits. The Indian

elephant dislikes the sun, and invariably retreats to thick shady forests at sunrise; but I have constantly found

the African species enjoying themselves in the burning sun in the hottest hours of the day, among plains of

withered grass, many miles from a jungle. The African is more active than the Indian, and not only is faster in

his movements, but is more capable of enduring long marches, as proved by the great distances through

which it travels to seek its food in the native's cornfields. In all countries, the bulls are fiercer than the

females. I cannot see much difference in character between the Indian and the African species; it is the

fashion for some people to assert that the elephant is an innocent and harmless creature, that, like the giraffe it

is almost a sin to destroy. I can only say that, during eight years' experience in Ceylon, and nearly five years'

in Africa, I have found that elephants are the most formidable animals with which a sportsman has to

contend. The African species is far more dangerous than the Indian, as the forehead shot can never be trusted;

therefore the hunter must await the charge with a conviction that his bullet will fail to kill.

The African elephant is about a foot higher than the average of the Indian species. The bulls of the former are

about ten feet six inches at the shoulder; the females are between nine feet and nine feet six. Of course there

are many bulls that exceed this height, and I have seen some few of both species that might equal twelve feet,

The tusks of elephants vary considerably, and there appears to be no rule to determine a reason for their size

and quality. In Abyssinia and Taka, a single tusk of a bull elephant seldom exceeds forty pounds, nor do they

average more than twentyfive, but in Central Africa they average about forty, and I have seen them upwards

of one hundred and fifty pounds. The largest that I have had the good fortune to bag was eighty pounds; the

fellowtusk was slightly below seventy. Elephants invariably use one tusk in preference, as we use the right

hand; thus it is difficult to obtain an exact pair, as the Hadam (or servant), as the Arabs call the working tusk,

is generally much worn. The African elephant is a more decided treefeeder than the Indian, and the

destruction committed by a large herd of such animals when feeding in a mimosa forest is extraordinary; they

deliberately march forward, and uproot or break down every tree that excites their appetite. The mimosas are

generally from sixteen to twenty feet high, and, having no taproot, they are easily overturned by the tusks of

the elephants, which are driven like crowbars beneath the roots, and used as levers, in which rough labour

they are frequently broken. Upon the overthrow of a tree, the elephants eat the roots and leaves, and strip the

The African elephant is equally docile as the Indian, when domesticated, but we have no account of a negro

tribe that has ever tamed one of these sagacious animals: their only maxim is "kill and eat." Although the

flesh of the elephant is extremely coarse, the foot and trunk are excellent, if properly cooked. A hole should

be dug in the earth, about four feet deep, and two feet six inches in diameter, the sides of which should be

perpendicular; in this a large fire should be lighted, and kept burning for four or five hours with a continual

supply of wood, so that the walls become redhot. At the expiration of the blaze, the foot should be laid upon

the glowing embers, and the hole covered closely with thick pieces of green wood laid parallel together to

form a ceiling; this should be covered with wet grass, and the whole plastered with mud, and stamped tightly

down to retain the heat. Upon the mud, a quantity of earth should be heaped, and the oven should not be

opened for thirty hours, or more. At the expiration of that time, the foot will be perfectly baked, and the sole

will separate like a shoe, and expose a delicate substance that, with a little oil and vinegar, together with an

allowance of pepper and salt, is a delicious dish that will feed about fifty men.

The Arabs are particularly fond of elephant's flesh, as it is generally fat and juicy. I have frequently used the

fat of the animal for cooking, but it should be taken from the body without delay; as, if left for a few hours, it

partakes of the peculiar smell of the elephant, which no amount of boiling will overcome. The boiling of fat

for preservation requires much care, as it should attain so great a heat that a few drops of water thrown upon

the surface will hiss and evaporate as though cast upon molten metal; it should then be strained, and, when

tolerably cool, be poured into vessels, and secured. No salt is necessary, provided it is thoroughly boiled.

When an animal is killed, the flesh should be properly dried, before boiling down, otherwise the fat will not

melt thoroughly, as it will be combined with the water contained in the body. The fat should be separated as

well as possible from the meat; it should then be hung in long strips upon a line and exposed in the sun to

dry; when nearly dried, it should be cut into pieces of about two inches in length, and placed in a large vessel

over a brisk fire, and kept constantly stirred. As the fat boils out from the meat, the residue should be taken

out with a pierced ladle; this, when cool, should be carefully preserved in leathern bags. This is called by the

Arabs "reveet," a supply of which is most valuable, as a quantity can be served out to each man during a long

march when there is no time to halt; it can be eaten without bread, and it is extremely nourishing. With a

good supply of reveet in store, the traveller need not be nervous about his dinner. Dried meat should also be

kept in large quantities; the best is that of the giraffe and hippopotamus, but there is some care required in

preparing the first quality. It should be cut from portions of the animals as free as possible from sinews, and

should be arranged in long thin strips of the diameter of about an inch and a quarter; these ribbonlike

morsels should be hung in the shade. When nearly dry, they should be taken down, and laid upon a flat rock,

upon which they should be well beaten with a stone, or club of hard wood; this breaks the fibre; after which

they should be hung up and thoroughly dried, care being taken that the flesh is not exposed to the sun. If

many flies are present, the flesh should be protected by the smoke of fires lighted to windward.

When meat is thus carefully prepared, it can be used in various ways, and is exceedingly palatable; if

pounded into small pieces like coarse sawdust, it forms an admirable material for curry and rice. The Arabs

make a firstclass dish of melach, by mixing a quantity of pounded dried meat with a thick porridge of dhurra

meal, floating in a soup of barmian (waker), with onions, salt, and red peppers; this is an admirable thing if

the party is pressed for time (if not too hot, as a large quantity can be eaten with great expedition. As the

Arabs are nomadic, they have a few simple but effective arrangements for food during the journey. For a

fortnight preparatory to an expedition, the women are busily engaged in manufacturing a supply of abrey.

This is made in several methods: there is the sour, and the sweet abrey; the former is made of

highlyfermented dhurra paste that has turned intensely acid; this is formed into thin wafers, about sixteen

inches in diameter, upon the doka or hearth, and dried in the sun until the abrey has become perfectly crisp;

the wafers are then broken up with the hands, and packed in bags. There is no drink more refreshing than

water poured over a handful of sour abrey, and allowed to stand for half an hour; it becomes pleasantly acid,

and is superior to lemonade. The residue is eaten by the Arabs: thus the abrey supplies both meat and drink.

The finest quality of sweet abrey is a very delicate affair; the flour of dhurra must be well sifted; it is then

mixed with milk instead of water, and, without fermenting, it is formed into thin wafers similar to those eaten

with icecreams in this country, but extremely large; these are dried in the sun, and crushed like the sour

abrey; they will keep for months if kept dry in a leathern bag. A handful of sweet abrey steeped in a bowl of

hot milk, with a little honey, is a luxurious breakfast; nothing can be more delicious, and it can be prepared in

a few minutes during the short halt upon a journey. With a good supply of abrey and dried meat, the

commissariat arrangements are wonderfully simplified, and a party can march a great distance without much

The flesh that is the least adapted for drying is that of the buffalo (Bos Caffer), which is exceedingly tough

and coarse. There are two species of the Bos Caffer in Abyssinia and Central Africa, which, similar in general

appearance, differ in the horns; that which resembles the true Bos Caffer of South Africa has very massive

convex horns that unite in front, and completely cover the forehead as with a shield; the other variety has

massive, but perfectly flat horns of great breadth, that do not quite unite over the os frontis, although nearly

so; the flatness of the horns continues in a rough surface, somewhat resembling the bark of a tree, for about

twelve inches; the horns then become round, and curve gracefully inwards, like those of the convex species.

Buffaloes are very dangerous and determined animals; but, although more accidents occur in hunting these

than any other variety of game, I cannot admit that they are such formidable opponents as the elephant and

black rhinoceros; they are so much more numerous than the latter, that they are more frequently encountered:

A buffalo can always be killed with a No. 10 rifle and six drachms of powder when charging, if the hunter

will only wait coolly until it is so close that he cannot miss the forehead; but the same rifle will fail against an

African elephant, or a black rhinoceros, as the horns of the latter animal effectually protect the brain from a

front shot. I have killed some hundreds of buffaloes, and, although in many cases they have been

unpleasantly near, the rifle has always won the day. There cannot be a more convenient size than No. 10 for a

double rifle, for large game. This will throw a conical projectile of three ounces, with seven drachms of

powder. Although a breechloader is a luxury, I would not have more than a pair of such rifles in an

expedition in a wild country, as they would require more care in a damp climate than the servants would be

likely to bestow upon them, and the ammunition would be a great drawback. This should be divided into

packets of ten cartridges each, which should be rolled up in flannel and hermetically sealed in separate tin

canisters. Thus arranged, they would be impervious to damp, and might be carried conveniently. But I should

decidedly provide myself with four doublebarrelled muzzleloading No. 10's as my regular battery; that, if

first class, would never get out of order. Nothing gives such confidence to the gunbearers as the fact of their

rifles being good slayers, and they quickly learn to take a pride in their weapons, and to strive in the race to

hand the spare rifles. Dust storms, such as I have constantly witnessed in Africa, would be terrible enemies to

breechloaders, as the hard sand, by grating in the joints, would wear away the metal, and destroy the

A small handy double rifle, such as my little Fletcher 24, not exceeding eight pounds and a half, is very

necessary, as it should seldom be out of the hand. Such a rifle should be a breechloader, as the advantage of

loading quickly while on horseback is incalculable. Huntingknives should be of soft steel, similar to

butchers' knives; but one principal knife to be worn daily should be of harder steel, with the back of the blade

roughed and casehardened like a butcher's steel, for sharpening other knives when required.

All boxes for rough travelling should be made of strong metal, japanned. These are a great comfort, as they

are proof both against insects and weather, and can be towed with their contents across a river.

Travelling is now so generally understood, that it is hardly necessary to give any instructions for the

exploration of wild countries; but a few hints may be acceptable upon points that, although not absolutely

essential, tend much to the comfort of the traveller. A couple of large carriage umbrellas with double lining,

with small rings fixed to the extremities of the ribs, and a spike similar to that of a fishingrod to screw into

the handle, will form an instantaneous shelter from sun or rain during a halt on the march, as a few strings

from the rings will secure it from the wind, if pegged to the ground. Waterproof calico sheeting should be

taken in large quantities, and a tarpaulin to protect the baggage during the night's bivouac. No vulcanised

Indiarubber should be employed in tropical climates; it rots, and becomes useless. A quart syringe for

injecting brine into fresh meat is very necessary. In hot climates, the centre of the joint will decompose before

the salt can penetrate to the interior, but an injecting syringe will thoroughly preserve the meat in a few

minutes. A few powerful foxtraps are useful for catching nightgame in countries where there is no large

Several sticks of Indianink are convenient, as sufficient can be rubbed up in a few moments to write up the

notebook during the march. All journals and notebooks should be of tinted paper, green, as the glare of

white paper in the intense sunlight of the open sky is most trying to the eyes. Burning glasses and flint and

steels are very necessary. Lucifer matches are dangerous, as they may ignite and destroy your baggage in dry

A large supply of quicksilver should be taken for the admixture with lead for hardening bullets, in addition to

that required for the artificial horizon; the effect of this metal is far greater than a mixture of tin, as the

Throughout a long experience in wild sports, although I admire the velocity of conical projectiles, I always

have retained my opinion that, in jungle countries, where in the absence of dogs you require either to disable

your game on the spot, or to produce a distinct bloodtrack that is easily followed, the oldfashioned

twogroove belted ball will bag more game than modern bullets; but, on the other hand, the facility of

loading a conical bullet already formed into a cartridge is a great advantage. The shock produced by a pointed

projectile is nothing compared to that of the old belted ball, unless it is on the principle of Purday's high

velocity expanding bullet, which, although perfection for deershooting, would be useless against

thickskinned animals, such as buffalo and rhinoceros. In Africa, the variety of game is such, that it is

impossible to tell, when loading, at what animal the bullet will be fired; therefore, it is necessary to be armed

with a rifle suitable for all comers. My little Fletcher was the Enfield bore, No. 24, and, although a most

trusty weapon, the bullets generally failed to penetrate the skull of hippopotami, except in places where the

bone was thin, such as behind the ear, and beneath the eyes. Although I killed great numbers of animals with

the Enfield bullet, the success was due to tolerably correct shooting, as I generally lost the larger antelopes if

wounded by that projectile in any place but the neck, head, or shoulder; the wound did not bleed freely,

therefore it was next to impossible to follow up the bloodtrack; thus a large proportion of wounded animals

I saw, and shot, thirteen varieties of antelopes while in Africa. Upon arrival at Khartoum, I met Herr von

Heuglin, who commanded the expedition in search of Dr. Vogel; he was an industrious naturalist, who had

been many years in the Soudan and in Abyssinia. We compared notes of all we had seen and done, and he

very kindly supplied me with a list of all the antelopes that he had been able to trace as existing in Abyssinia

and the Soudan; he now included my maarif, which he had never met with, and which he agreed was a new

species. In the following list, which is an exact copy of that which he had arranged, those marked with an

Catalogue des especes du genre "ANTILOPE," observees en Egypte, dans la Nubie, au Soudan orientale et en

6.G. Soemmeringii, Rupp. Arab. Om Oreba. Tigreh, Arab. Taka, Massowa, Gedaref, Berber, Sennaar.

7.G. Leptoceros. Arab. Abou Harab. Gazelle a longues cornes, minces et paralleles. Bajouda, Berber,

8.C. montanus,* Rupp. Arab. Otrab and El Mor. Amhar, Fiego, Sennaar, Abissinie, Taka, Galabat.

10.N. Hemprichianus, Ehr. Arab. Om dig dig. Abissinie orientale et occidentale, Taka, Kordofan.

12, 13.Deux especes inconnues du Fleuve blanc, nominees par les Djenkes, "Amok."

20.R. megcerosa,* Heuglin. Kobus Maria, Gray. Djenke, Abok, Saubat, Bahr el Abiad et Bahr Ghazal.

21.R. Defassa,* Rupp. Arab. Om Hetehet. Amhar. Dofasa. Djenke, Bor. Bahr el Salame, Galabat,

23.H. niger, Harris. Arab. Abou Maarif. Kordofan meridionale, fleuve Blanc (Chilouk).

24.H. nov. spec. Arab. Abou Maarif.*Bakerii.* Bahr el Salaam, Galabat Dender, fleuve BIeu, Sennaar

25.H. Beisa, Rupp. Arab. Beisa et Damma. Souakim, Massowa, Danakil, Somauli, Kordofan.

30.Tr. strepsiceros (Pallas). Arab. Nellet, Miremreh. Tigreh, Garona. Ambar. Agazen. Abissinie, Sennaar,

32.Tr. Dekula, Rupp. Amhar. Dekoula. Arab. Houch. Djenke, Ber. Taka, Abissinie, Bahr el Abiad.

33.B. Mauritanica, Sund. (Antilope Bubalis, Cuvier). Arab. Tetel; Tigreh, Tori. Taka, Homran, Barka,

34.B. Caama, Cuv. Arab. Tetel. Djenke, Awalwon. Bahr el Abiad, Kordofan meridionale.

FOR some days we continued our journey along the banks of the Dinder, and as the monotonous river turned

towards the junction with the Blue Nile, a few miles distant, we made a direct cut across the flat country, to

cross the Rahad and arrive at Abou Harraz on the Blue Nile. We passed numerous villages and extensive

plantations of dhurra that were deserted by the Arabs, as the soldiers had arrived to collect the taxes. I

measured the depths of the wells, seventyfive feet and a half, from the surface to the bottom; the alluvial

soil appeared to continue the whole distance, until the water was discovered resting upon hard sand, full of

small particles of mica. During the march over a portion of the country that had been cleared by burning, we

met a remarkably curious huntingparty. A number of the common black and white stork were hunting for

grasshoppers and other insects, but mounted upon the back of each stork was a large coppercoloured

flycatcher, which, perched like a rider on his horse, kept a bright lookout for insects, which from its elevated

position it could easily discover upon the ground. I watched them for some time: whenever the storks

perceived a grasshopper or other winged insect, they chased it on foot, but if they missed their game, the

flycatchers darted from their backs and flew after the insects like falcons, catching them in their beaks, and

On the evening of the 23d May we arrived at the Rahad close to its junction with the Blue Nile: it was still

dry, although the Dinder was rising. I accounted for this, from the fact of the extreme length of the Rahad's

bed, which, from its extraordinary tortuous course, must absorb a vast amount of water in the dry sand, before

the advancing stream can reach the Nile. Both the Rahad and Dinder rise in the mountains of Abyssinia, at no

great distance from each other, and during the rains they convey a large volume of water to the Blue Nile.

Upon arrival at Abou Harraz, four miles to the north of the Rahad junction, we had marched, by careful dead

reckoning, two hundred and eighty miles from Gallabat. We were now about a hundred and fifteen miles

from Khartoum, and we stood upon the banks of the magnificent Blue Nile, the last of the Abyssinian

About six miles above this spot, on the south bank of the river, is the large town of Wat Medene, which is the

principal tradingplace upon the river. Abou Harraz was a miserable spot, and was only important as the

turning point upon the road to Katariff from Khartoum. The entire country upon both sides of the river is one

vast unbroken level of rich soil, wlich on the north and east sides is bounded by the Atbara. The entire surface

of this fertile country might be cultivated with cotton. All that is required to insure productiveness, is a

regular supply of water, which might be artificially arranged without much difficulty. The character of all the

Abyssinian rivers is to rise and fall suddenly; thus at one season there is an abundance of water, to be

followed by a scarcity: but in all the fertile provinces adjacent to the Settite and the upper portion of the

Atbara, the periodical rains can be absolutely depended upon, from June to the middle of September; thus,

they are peculiarly adapted for cotton, as a dry season is insured for gathering the crop. As we advance to the

north, and reach Abou Harraz, we leave the rainy zone. When we had left Gallabat, the grass had sprung

several inches, owing to the recent showers; but as we had proceeded rapidly towards the north, we had

entered upon vast dusty plains devoid of a green blade; the rainy season between Abou Harraz and Khartoum

consisted of mere occasional storms, that, descending with great violence, quickly passed away. Nothing

would be more simple than to form a succession of weirs across the Rahad and Dinder, that would enable the

entire country to be irrigated at any season of the year, but there is not an engineering work of any description

throughout Upper Egypt, beyond the sageer or waterwheel of the Nile. Opposite Abou Harraz, the Blue Nile

was a grand river, about five hundred yards in width; the banks upon the north side were the usual

perpendicular cliffs of alluvial soil, but perfectly bare of trees; while, on the south, the banks were

ornamented with nabbuk bushes and beautiful palms. The latter are a peculiar species known by the Arabs as

"dolape" (Borassus AEthiopicus): the stem is long, and of considerable thickness, but in about the centre of

its length it swells to nearly half its diameter in excess, and after a few feet of extra thickness it continues its

original size to the summit, which is crowned by a handsome crest of leaves shaped like those of the palmyra.

The fruit of this palm is about the size of a cocoanut, and when ripe it is of a bright yellow, with an

exceedingly rich perfume of apricots; it is very stringy, and, although eaten by the natives, it is beyond the

teeth of a European. The Arabs cut it into slices, and boil it with water until they obtain a strong syrup.

At Abou Harraz I discharged my camels, and endeavoured to engage a boat to convey us to Khartoum, thus

to avoid the dusty and uninteresting ride of upwards of a hundred miles along its flat and melancholy banks;

but there was not a vessel of any kind to be seen upon the river, except one miserable, dirty affair, for which

the owner demanded fourteen hundred piastres for a passage. We accordingly procured camels, and started,

"June 2, 1862.We packed the camels in the morning and started them off to Rufaar. We followed at 2.30

P.M. as the natives declared it was half a day's journey; but we did not arrive until 8.30 P.M. having marched

about twentyone miles. The town is considerable, and is the headquarters of our old friend, the great Sheik

Achmet Abou Sinn; he is now absent, but his son Ali is at home. He received us very kindly, and lodged us in

his own house within a large inclosed court, with a well of good water in the centre. Having read my firman,

be paid us the usual compliments, but he lacked the calm dignity and ease of manner of his grand old father.

He sat stiffly upon the divan, occasionally relieving the monotony of his position by lifting up the cover of

the cushions, and spitting beneath it. Not having a handkerchief, but only the limited natural advantages of a

finger and thumb, a cold in the head gave him much trouble, and unpleasant marks upon the wall exhibited

hieroglyphics of recent date, that were ill adapted to the receptionroom of an Arab chieftain. In about an

hour he departed, and shortly after, a dinner of four dishes was brought. No. 1 was an Arab Irish stew, but

alas! MINUS the potatoes; it was very good, nevertheless, as the mutton was fat. No. 2 was an Arab stew,

with no Irish element; it was very hot with red pepper, and rather dry. No. 3 was a good quick fry of small

pieces of mutton in butter and garlic (very good); and No. 4 was an excellent dish of the usual melach,

The wind had within the last few days changed to south, and we had been subjected to dust storms and

sudden whirlwinds similar to those we had experienced at this season in the preceding year, when about to

start from Berber. We left Rufaar, and continued our march along the banks of the Blue Nile, towards

Khartoum. It was intensely hot; whenever we felt a breeze it was accompanied with a suffocating dust, but

the sight of the broad river was cool and refreshing. During the dry season the water of the Blue Nile is clear,

as its broad surface reflects the colour of the blue sky; hence the appellation, but at that time it was extremely

shallow, and in many places it is fordable at a depth of about three feet, which renders it unnavigable for

large boats, which, laden with corn, supply Khartoum from the fertile provinces of the south. The river had

now begun to rise, although it was still low, and the water was muddy, as the swelling torrents of Abyssinia

brought impurities into the main channel. It was at this same time last year, when at Berber, that we had

noticed the sudden increase and equally sudden fall of the Nile, that was influenced by the fluctuations of the

From Abou Harraz throughout the route to Khartoum there is no object of interest; it is the same vast flat,

decreasing rapidly in fertility until it mingles with the desert; and once more, as we journey to the north, we

leave the fertile lands behind, and enter upon sterility. The glare of barren plains and the heat of the summer's

sun were fearful. Bacheet had a slight coup de soleil; my Tokrooris, whose woolly heads were shaved, and

simply covered with a thin skullcap, suffered severely, as we marched throughout the burning hours of the

day. The Arabs were generally very inhospitable, as this was the route frequented by all native merchants,

where strangers were of daily occurrence; but towards evening we arrived at a village inhabited by a large

body of Fakeers, or priests. As we entered, we were met by the principal Faky, who received us with marked

attention, and with a charming courtesy of manner that quite won our hearts; he expressed himself as

delighted at our arrival, hoped we were not fatigued by the heat, and trusted that we would rest for a few

minutes before we departed to the enchanting village "just beyond those trees," as he pointed to a clump of

green nabbuk on the yellow plain, about a mile distant; there, he assured us, we could obtain all kinds of

supplies, together with shade, and a lovely view of the river. We were delighted with this very gentlemanly

Faky, and, saying adieu with regret, we hurried on to the promised village "just beyond those trees."

For fourteen miles we travelled, hungry and tired, beyond the alluring clump of trees, along the wild desert of

hot sand without a habitation; the only portion of truth in the Faky's description was the "lovely view of the

river," that certainly accompanied us throughout our journey. We were regularly "sold" by the cunning Faky,

who, not wishing to be incommoded by our party, had got rid of us in a most gentlemanly manner. At length

we arrived at a village, where we had much difficulty in procuring provisions for ourselves and people.

On the 11th June, having slept at the village of Abou Dome, we started at sunrise, and at 9 A.M. we reached

the bank of the river, opposite to Khartoum. We were delighted with the view, as the morning sun shone upon

the capital of the Soudan provinces; the grove of date trees shaded the numerous buildings, their dark green

foliage contrasting exquisitely with the many coloured houses on the extreme margin of the beautiful river;

long lines of vessels and masts gave life to the scene, and we felt that once more, after twelve months of

utterly wild life, we had arrived in civilization. We had outridden our camels, therefore we rode through a

shallow arm of the river, and arrived upon an extensive sandbank that had been converted into a garden of

melons; from this point a large ferryboat plied regularly to the town on the south bank. In a few minutes we

found ourselves on board, with our sole remaining horse, Tetel, also the donkeys that we had purchased in

Berber before our expedition, and our attendants. As we gained the centre of the river, that was about 800

yards broad, we were greeted by the snort of three of our old friends, the hippopotami, who had been

attracted to the neighbourhood by the garden of watermelons. We landed at Khartoum, and, having climbed

The difference between the view of Khartoum at the distance of a mile, with the sun shining upon the bright

river Nile in the foreground, to the appearance of the town upon close inspection, was about equal to the

scenery of a theatre as regarded from the boxes or from the stage; even that painful exposure of an optical

illusion would be trifling compared with the imposture of Khartoum; the sense of sight had been deceived by

distance, but the sense of smell was outraged by innumerable nuisances, when we set foot within the filthy

and miserable town. After winding through some narrow dusty lanes, hemmed in by high walls of sunbaked

bricks, that had fallen in gaps in several places, exposing gardens of prickly pears and date palms, we at

length arrived at a large open place, that, if possible, smelt more strongly than the landing spot. Around this

square, which was full of holes where the mud had been excavated for brickmaking, were the better class of

houses; this was the Belgravia of Khartoum. In the centre of a long mud wall, ventilated by certain attempts

at frameless windows, guarded by rough wooden bars, we perceived a large archway with closed doors;

above this entrance was a shield, with a device that gladdened my English eyes: there was the British lion and

the unicorn! Not such a lion as I had been accustomed to meet in his native jungles, a yellow cowardly

fellow, that had often slunk away from the very prey from which I had driven him, but a real red British lion,

that, although thin and ragged in the unhealthy climate of Khartoum, looked as though he was pluck to the

This was the English Consulate. I regarded our lion and unicorn for a few moments with feelings of

veneration; and as Mr. Petherick, the consul, who was then absent on the White Nile in search of Speke and

Grant, had very kindly begged me to occupy some rooms in the Consulate, we entered a large courtyard, and

were immediately received by two ostriches that came to meet us; these birds entertained us by an impromptu

race as hard as they could go round the courtyard, as though performing in a circus. When this little

divertissement was finished, we turned to the right, and were shown by a servant up a flight of steps into a

large airy room that was to be our residence, which, being well protected from the sun, was cool and

agreeable. Mr. Petherick had started from Khartoum in the preceding March, and had expected to meet Speke

and Grant in the upper portion of the Nile regions, on their road from Zanzibar; but there are insurmountable

difficulties in those wild countries, and his expedition met with unforeseen accidents, that, in spite of the

exertions of both himself, his very devoted wife, Dr. Murie, and two or three Europeans, drove them from

their intended path. Shortly after our arrival at the Consulate, a vessel returned from his party with

unfavourable accounts; they had started too late in the season, owing to some difficulties in procuring boats,

and the change of wind to the south, with violent rain, had caused great suffering, and had retarded their

progress. This same boat had brought two leopards that were to be sent to England: these animals were led

into the courtyard, and, having been secured by chains, they formed a valuable addition to the menagerie,

which consisted of two wild boars, two leopards, one hyaena, two ostriches, and a cynocephalus or

dogfaced baboon, who won my heart by taking an especial fancy to me, because I had a beard like his

Although I take a great interest in wild animals, I confess to have an objection to sleep in the Zoological

Gardens should all the wild beasts be turned loose. I do not believe that even the Secretary of that learned

Society would volunteer to sleep with the lions; but as the leopards at the Khartoum Consulate constantly

broke their chains, and attacked the dogs and a cow, and as the hyaena occasionally got loose, and the wild

boars destroyed their mud wall, and nearly killed one of my Tokrooris during the night, by carving him like a

scored leg of pork with their tusks, the fact of sleeping in the open air in the verandah, with the simple

protection of a mosquitonetting, was full of pleasant excitement, and was a piquante entertainment that

prevented a reaction of ennui after twelve months passed in constant watchfulness. The shield over the

Consulate door, with the lion and the unicorn, was but a sign of the life within; as the grand picture outside

the showman's wagon may exemplify the nature of his exhibition. I enjoyed myself extremely with these

creatures, especially when the ostriches invited themselves to tea, and swallowed our slices of watermelons

and the greater portion of the bread from the table a few moments before we were seated. These birds

appeared to enjoy life amazingly; one kind of food was as sweet as another; they attacked a basket of white

porcelain beads that had been returned by Mr. Petherick's men, and swallowed them in great numbers in

mistake for dhurra, until they were driven off; they were the scavengers of the courtyard, that consumed the

For some months we resided at Khartoum, as it was necessary to make extensive preparations for the White

Nile expedition, and to await the arrival of the north wind, which would enable us to start early in December.

Although the north and south winds blow alternately for six months, and the former commences in October,

it does not extend many degrees southward until the beginning of December. This is a great drawback to

White Nile exploration, as when near the north side of the equator, the dry season commences in November,

and closes in February; thus, the departure from Khartoum should take place by a steamer in the latter part of

September; that would enable the traveller to leave Gondokoro, lat. N. 4 degrees 54 minutes, shortly before

November; he would then secure three months of favourable weather for an advance inland.

Having promised Mek Nimmur that I would lay his proposals for peace before the GovernorGeneral of the

Soudan, I called upon Moosa Pasha at the public divan, and delivered the message; but he would not listen to

any intercession, as he assured me that Mek Nimmur was incorrigible, and there would be no real peace until

his death, which would be very speedy should he chance to fall into his hands. He expressed great surprise at

our having escaped from his territory, and he declared his intention of attacking him after he should have

given the Abyssinians a lesson, for whom he was preparing an expedition in reply to an insolent letter that he

had received from King Theodore. The King of Abyssinia had written to him upon a question of frontier. The

substance of the document was a declaration that the Egyptians had no right to Khartoum, and that the natural

boundary of Abyssinia was the junction of the Blue and White Niles as far north as Shendy (Mek Nimmur's

original country); and from that point, in a direct line, to the Atbara; but that, as the desert afforded no

landmark, he should send his people to dig a ditch from the Nile to the Atbara, and he requested that the

Egyptians would keep upon the north border. Moosa Pasha declared that the king was mad, and that, were it

not for the protection given to Abyssinia by the English, the Egyptians would have eaten it up long ago, but

that the Christian powers would certainly interfere should they attempt to annex the country.

The Egyptians seldom had less than twenty thousand troops in the Soudan provinces; the principal stations

were Khartoum, Cassala, and Dongola. Cassala was close to the Abyssinian frontier, and within from fifteen

to twenty days' march of Souakim, on the Red Sea, to which reinforcements could be despatched in five days

from Cairo. Khartoum had the advantage of the Blue Nile, that was navigable for steamers and sailing vessels

as far south as Fazogle, from which spot, as well as from Gallabat, Abyssinia could be invaded; while swarms

of Arabs, including the celebrated Hamrans, the Beni Amer, Hallongas, Hadendowas, Shookeriahs, and

Dabainas, could be slipped like greyhounds across the frontier. Abyssinia is entirely at the mercy of Egypt.

Moosa Pasha subsequently started with several thousand men to drive the Abyssinians from Gallabat, which

position they had occupied in force with the avowed intention of marching upon Khartoum; but upon the

approach of the Egyptians they fell back rapidly across the mountains, without a sign of showing fight. The

Egyptians would not follow them, as they feared the intervention of the European powers.

Upon our first arrival in Khartoum, from 11th June until early in October, the heat was very oppressive, the

thermometer seldom below 95 degrees Fahr. in the shade, and frequently 100 degrees, while the nights were

82 degrees Fahr. In the winter, the temperature was agreeable, the shade 80 degrees, the night 62 degrees

Fahr. But the chilliness of the north wind was exceedingly dangerous, as the sudden gusts checked the

perspiration, and produced various maladies, more especially fever. I had been extremely fortunate, as,

although exposed to hard work for more than a year in the burning sun, I had remarkably good health, as had

my wife likewise, with the exception of one severe attack while at Sofi. Throughout the countries we had

visited, the temperature was high, averaging about 90 degrees in the shade from May until the end of

September; but the nights were generally about 70 degrees, with the exception of the winter months, from

November until February, when the thermometer generally fell to 85 degrees Fahr. in the day, and sometimes

I shall not repeat a minute description of Khartoum that has already been given in the "Albert N'yanza;" it is a

wretchedly unhealthy town, containing about thirty thousand inhabitants, exclusive of troops. In spite of its

unhealthiness and low situation, on a level with the river at the junction of the Blue and White Niles, it is the

general emporium for the trade of the Soudan, from which the productions of the country are transported to

Lower Egypt, i.e. ivory, hides, senna, gum arabic, and bees'wax. During my experience of Khartoum it was

the hotbed of the slavetrade. It will be remarked that the exports from the Soudan are all natural

productions. There is nothing to exhibit the industry or capacity of the natives; the ivory is the produce of

violence and robbery; the hides are the simple sundried skins of oxen; the senna grows wild upon the desert;

the gum arabic exudes spontaneously from the bushes of the jungle; and the bees'wax is the produce of the

When we regard the general aspect of the Soudan, it is extreme wretchedness; the rainfall is uncertain and

scanty, thus the country is a desert, dependent entirely upon irrigation. Although cultivation is simply

impossible without a supply of water, one of the most onerous taxes is that upon the sageer or waterwheel,

with which the fields are irrigated on the borders of the Nile. It would appear natural that, instead of a tax, a

premium should be offered for the erection of such means of irrigation, which would increase the revenue by

extending cultivation, the produce of which might bear an impost. With all the talent and industry of the

native Egyptians, who must naturally depend upon the waters of the Nile for their existence, it is

extraordinary that for thousands of years they have adhered to their original simple form of mechanical

If any one will take the trouble to watch the action of the sageer or waterwheel, it must strike him as a most

puny effort to obtain a great result, that would at once suggest an extension of the principle. The sageer is

merely a wheel of about twenty feet diameter, which is furnished with numerous earthenware jars upon its

exterior circumference, that upon revolving perform the action of a dredger, but draw to the surface water

instead of mud. The wheel, being turned by oxen, delivers the water into a trough which passes into a

reservoir, roughly fashioned with clay, from which, small channels of about ten inches in width radiate

through the plantation. The fields, divided into squares like a chessboard, are thus irrigated by a succession

of minute aqueducts. The root of this principle is the reservoir. A certain steady volume of water is required,

from which the arteries shall flow throughout a large area of dry ground; thus, the reservoir insures a regular

In any civilized country, the existence of which depended upon the artificial supply of water in the absence of

rain, the first engineering principle would suggest a saving of labour in irrigation: that, instead of raising the

water in small quantities into reservoirs, the river should raise its own waters to the required level.

Having visited every tributary of the Nile during the explorations of nearly five years, I have been struck with

the extraordinary fact that, although an enormous amount of wealth is conveyed to Egypt by the annual

inundations of the river, the force of the stream is entirely uncontrolled. From time immemorial, the rise of

the Nile has been watched with intense interest at the usual season, but no attempt has been made to insure a

The mystery of the Nile has been dispelled; we have proved that the equatorial lakes supply the main stream,

but that the inundations are caused by the sudden rush of waters from the torrents of Abyssinia in July,

August, and September; and that the soil washed down by the floods of the Atbara is at the present moment

silting up the mouths of the Nile, and thus slowly, but steadily, forming a delta beneath the waters of the

Mediterranean, on the same principle that created the fertile Delta of Egypt. Both the water and the mud of

the Nile have duties to perform,the water to irrigate; the deposit to fertilize; but these duties are not

regularly performed: sometimes the rush of the inundation is overwhelming, at others it is insufficient; while

at all times an immense proportion of the fertilizing mud is not only wasted by a deposit beneath the sea, but

navigation is impeded by the silt. The Nile is a powerful horse without harness, but, with a bridle in its

As the supply of water raised by the sageer is received in a reservoir, from which the irrigating channels

radiate through the plantations, so should great reservoirs be formed throughout the varying levels of Egypt,

from Khartoum to the Mediterranean, comprising a distance of sixteen degrees of latitude, with a fall of

fifteen hundred feet. The advantage of this great difference in altitude between the Nile in latitude 15 degrees

30 minutes and the sea, would enable any amount of irrigation, by the establishment of a series of dams or

weirs across the Nile, that would raise its level to the required degree, at certain points, from which the water

would be led by canals into natural depressions; these would form reservoirs, from which the water might be

led upon a vast scale, in a similar manner to the insignificant mud basins that at the present day form the

reservoirs for the feeble waterwheels. The increase of the river's level would depend upon the height of the

dams; but, as stone is plentiful throughout the Nile, the engineering difficulties would be trifling.

Mehemet Ali Pasha acknowledged the principle, by the erection of the barrage between Cairo and

Alexandria, which, by simply raising the level of the river, enabled the people to extend their channels for

irrigation; but this was the crude idea, that has not been carried out upon a scale commensurate with the

requirements of Egypt. The ancient Egyptians made use of the lake Mareotis as a reservoir for the Nile waters

for the irrigation of a large extent of Lower Egypt, by taking advantage of a high Nile to secure a supply for

the remainder of the year; but, great as were the works of those industrious people, they appear to have

ignored the first principle of irrigation, by neglecting to raise the level of the river.

Egypt remains in the same position that Nature originally allotted to her; the lifegiving stream that flows

through a thousand miles of burning sands suddenly rises in July, and floods the Delta which it has formed by

a deposit, during perhaps hundreds of thousands of inundations; and it wastes a superabundance of fertilizing

mud in the waters of the Mediterranean. As Nature has thus formed, and is still forming a delta, why should

not Science create a delta, with the powerful means at our disposal? Why should not the mud of the Nile that

now silts up the Mediterranean be directed to the barren but vast area of deserts, that by such a deposit would

become a fertile portion of Egypt? This work might be accomplished by simple means: the waters of the Nile,

that now rush impetuously at certain seasons with overwhelming violence, while at other seasons they are

exhausted, might be so controlled that they should never be in excess, neither would they be reduced to a

minimum in the dry season; but the enormous volume of water heavily charged with soil, that now rushes

uselessly into the sea, might be led throughout the deserts of Nubia and Libya, to transform them into cotton

fields that would render England independent of America. There is no fiction in this idea; it is merely the

simple and commonplace fact, that with a fall of fifteen hundred feet in a thousand miles, with a river that

supplies an unlimited quantity of water and mud at a particular season, a supply could be afforded to a

prodigious area, that would be fertilized not only by irrigation, but by the annual deposit of soil from the

water, allowed to remain upon the surface. This suggestion might be carried out by gradations; the great work

might be commenced by a single dam above the first cataract at Assouan, at a spot where the river is walled

in by granite hills; at that place, the water could be raised to an exceedingly high level, that would command

an immense tract of country. As the system became developed, similar dams might be constructed at

convenient intervals that would not only bring into cultivation the neighbouring deserts, but would facilitate

the navigation of the river, that is now impeded, and frequently closed, by the numerous cataracts. By raising

the level of the Nile sixty feet at every dam, the cataracts would no longer exist, as the rocks which at present

form the obstructions would be buried in the depths of the river. At the positions of the several dams, sluice

gates and canals would conduct the shipping either up or down the stream. Were this principle carried out as

far as the last cataracts, near Khartoum, the Soudan would no longer remain a desert; the Nile would become

not only the cultivator of those immense tracts that are now utterly worthless, but it would be the navigable

channel of Egypt for the extraordinary distance of twentyseven degrees of latitudedirect from the

The benefits, not only to Egypt, but to civilization, would be incalculable; those remote countries in the

interior of Africa are so difficult of access, that, although we cling to the hope that at some future time the

inhabitants may become enlightened, it will be simply impossible to alter their present condition, unless we

change the natural conditions under which they exist. From a combination of adverse circumstances, they are

excluded from the civilized world: the geographical position of those desertlocked and remote countries

shuts them out from personal communication with strangers: the hardy explorer and the missionary creep

through the difficulties of distance in their onward paths, but seldom return: the European merchant is rarely

seen, and trade resolves itself into robbery and piracy upon the White Nile, and other countries, where

distance and difficulty of access have excluded all laws and political surveillance. Nevertheless, throughout

that desert, and neglected wilderness, the Nile has flowed for ages, and the people upon its banks are as wild

and uncivilized at the present day as they were when the Pyramids were raised in Lower Egypt. The Nile is a

blessing only half appreciated; the time will arrive when people will look in amazement upon a mighty

Egypt, whose waving crops shall extend, far beyond the horizon, upon those sandy and thirsty deserts where

only the camel can contend with exhausted nature. Men will look down from some lofty point upon a

network of canals and reservoirs, spreading throughout a land teeming with fertility, and wonder how it was

that, for so many ages, the majesty of the Nile had been concealed. Not only the sources of that wonderful

river had been a mystery from the earliest history of the world, but the resources and the power of the mighty

In all rainless countries, artificial irrigation is the first law of nature, it is selfpreservation; but, even in

countries where the rainfall can be depended upon with tolerable certainty, irrigation should never be

neglected; one dry season in a tropical country may produce a famine, the results of which may be terrible, as

instanced lately by the unfortunate calamity in Orissa. The remains of the beautiful system of artificial

irrigation that was employed by the ancients in Ceylon, attest the degree of civilization to which they had

attained; in that island the waters of various rivers were conducted into valleys that were converted into lakes,

by dams of solid masonry that closed the extremity, from which the water was conducted by artificial

channels throughout the land. In those days, Ceylon was the most fertile country of the East; her power

equalled her prosperity; vast cities teeming with a dense population stood upon the borders of the great

reservoirs, and the people revelled in wealth and plenty. The dams were destroyed in civil warfare; the

wonderful works of irrigation shared in the destruction; the country dried up; famine swallowed up the

population; and the grandeur and prosperity of that extraordinary country collapsed and withered in the

At the present moment, ten thousand square miles lie desolate in thorny jungles, where formerly a sea of

waving ricecrops floated on the surface; the people are dead, the glory is departed. This glory had been the

fruit of irrigation. All this prosperity might be restored: but in Egypt there has been no annihilation of a

people, and the Nile invites a renewal of the system formerly adopted in Ceylon; there is an industrious

population crowded upon a limited space of fertile soil, and yearning for an increase of surface. At the

commencement of this work, we saw the Egyptians boating the earth from the crumbling ruins, and

transporting it with arduous labour to spread upon the barren sandbanks of the Nile, left by the retreating

river; they were striving for every foot of land thus offered by the exhausted waters, and turning into gardens

what in other countries would have been unworthy of cultivation. Were a system of irrigation established

upon the principle that I have proposed, the advantages would be enormous. The silt deposited in the

Mediterranean, that now chokes the mouths of the Nile, and blocks up harbours, would be precipitated upon

the broad area of newlyirrigated lands, and by the time that the water arrived at the sea, it would have been

filtered in its passage, and have become incapable of forming a fresh deposit. The great difficulty of the Suez

canal will be the silting up of the entrance by the Nile; this would be prevented were the mud deposited in the

During the civil war in America, Egypt proved her capabilities by producing a large amount of cotton of most

excellent quality, that assisted us materially in the great dearth of that article; but, although large fortunes

were realized by the extension of this branch of agriculture, the Egyptians suffered considerably in

consequence. The area of fertile soil was too limited, and, as an unusual surface was devoted to the growth of

cotton, there was a deficiency in the production of corn; and Egypt, instead of exporting as heretofore, was

forced to import large quantities of grain. Were the area of Egypt increased to a vast extent by the proposed

system of irrigation, there would be space sufficient for both grain and cotton to any amount required. The

desert soil, that is now utterly worthless, would become of great value; and the taxes upon the increased

produce would not only cover the first outlay of the irrigation works, but would increase the revenue in the

ratio proportionate to the increased surface of fertility. A dam across the Atbara would irrigate the entire

country from Gozerajup to Berber, a distance of upwards of 200 miles; and the same system upon the Nile

would carry the waters throughout the deserts between Khartoum and Dongola, and from thence to Lower

Egypt. The Nubian desert, from Korosko to Abou Hamed, would become a garden, the whole of that sterile

country inclosed within the great western bend of the Nile towards Dongola would be embraced in the system

of irrigation, and the barren sands that now give birth to the bitter melon of the desert (Cucumis colocynthis),

would bring forth the watermelon, and heavy crops of grain.* The great Sahara is desert, simply because it

receives no rainfall: give it only water, and the sand will combine with the richer soil beneath, and become

productive. England would become a desert, could it be deprived of rain for three or four years; the

vegetation would wither and be carried away by the wind, together with the lighter and more friable portions

of the soil, which, reduced to dust, would leave the coarser and more sandy particles exposed upon the

surface; but the renewal of rain would revivify the country. The deserts of Egypt have never known rain,

except in the form of an unexpected shower, that has passed away as suddenly as it arrived; even that slight

blessing awakens everready Nature, and green things appear upon the yellow surface of the ground, that

cause the traveller to wonder how their seeds could germinate after the exposure for so many months in the

burning sand. Give water to these thirsty deserts, and they will reply with gratitude.

* The great deserts of Northern Africa, to about the 170 N. lat., are supposed to have formed the bottom of

the Mediterranean, but to have been upheaved to their present level. The volcanic bombs discovered in the

Nubian Desert suggest, by their spherical form, that the molten lava ejected by active volcanoes had fallen

from a great height into water, that had rapidly cooled them, in the same manner that lead shot is

manufactured at the present day. It is therefore highly probable that the extinct craters now in existence in the

Nubian Desert were active at a period when they formed volcanic islands in a seasimilar to Stromboli,

This is the way to civilize a country: the engineer will alter the hard conditions of nature, that have rendered

man as barren of good works as the sterile soil upon which he lives. Let man have hope; improve the present,

that his mind may look forward to a future; give him a horse that will answer to the spur, if he is to run in the

race of life; give him a soil that will yield and tempt him to industry; give him the means of communication

with his fellowmen, that he may see his own inferiority by comparison; provide channels for the transport of

his produce, and for the receipt of foreign manufactures, that will engender commerce: and then, when he has

advanced so far in the scale of humanity, you may endeavour to teach him the principles of Christianity.

Then, and not till then, can we hope for moral progress. We must begin with the development of the physical

capabilities of a country before we can expect from its inhabitants sufficient mental vigour to receive and

understand the truths of our religion. I have met with many Christian missionaries, of various and conflicting

creeds, who have fruitlessly sown the seed of Christianity upon the barren soil of Africa; but their labours

were illtimed, they were too early in the field, the soil is unprepared; the missionary, however earnest, must

wait until there be some foundation for a superstructure. Raise the level of the waters, and change the

character of the surrounding deserts: this will also raise the intellectual condition of the inhabitants by an

The first portion of our task was completed. We had visited all the Nile tributaries of Abyssinia, including the

great Blue Nile that had been traced to its source by Bruce. The difficult task still lay before usto penetrate

the unknown regions in the distant south, to discover the White Nile source.* Speke and Grant were on their

road from Zanzibar, cutting their way upon untrodden ground towards Gondokoro. Petherick's expedition to

assist them had met with misfortune, and we trusted to be able to reach the equator, and perhaps to meet our

Zanzibar explorers somewhere about the sources of the Nile. Although we had worked hard throughout all

seasons, over an immense extent of country, we were both strong and well, and the rest of some months at

Khartoum had only served to inspire us with new vigour for the commencement of the work before us. By the

17th December, 1862, our preparations were completed; three vessels were laden with large quantities of

stores400 bushels of corn, twentynine transport animals, including camels, donkeys, and horses (among

the latter was my old hunter Tetel). Ninetysix souls formed my whole party, including forty wellarmed

men, with Johann Schmidt and Richarn. On the 18th December we sailed from Khartoum upon the White

Nile towards its unknown sources, and bade farewell to the last vestige of law, government, and civilization. I

find in my journal, the last words written at our departure upon this uncertain task, "God grant us success; if

* The account of the White Nile voyage, with the happy meeting of captains Speke and Grant, and the

subsequent discovery of the "Albert N'yanza," has been already given in the work of that title.

2. The Nile Tributaries of Abyssinia and the Sword Hunters of the Hamran Arabs, page = 4