Title:   The Spirit of Place and Other Essays

Subject:  

Author:   Alice Meynell

Keywords:  

Creator:  

PDF Version:   1.2



Contents:

Page No 1

Page No 2

Page No 3

Page No 4

Page No 5

Page No 6

Page No 7

Page No 8

Page No 9

Page No 10

Page No 11

Page No 12

Page No 13

Page No 14

Page No 15

Page No 16

Page No 17

Page No 18

Page No 19

Page No 20

Page No 21

Page No 22

Page No 23

Page No 24

Page No 25

Page No 26

Page No 27

Page No 28

Page No 29

Page No 30

Bookmarks





Page No 1


The Spirit of Place and Other Essays

Alice Meynell



Top




Page No 2


Table of Contents

The Spirit of Place and Other Essays ................................................................................................................1

Alice Meynell ...........................................................................................................................................1

THE SPIRIT OF PLACE .........................................................................................................................1

MRS. DINGLEY.....................................................................................................................................3

SOLITUDE ..............................................................................................................................................5

THE LADY OF THE LYRICS ................................................................................................................7

JULY ........................................................................................................................................................9

WELLS..................................................................................................................................................10

THE FOOT............................................................................................................................................12

HAVE PATIENCE, LITTLE SAINT ....................................................................................................13

THE LADIES OF THE IDYLL .............................................................................................................15

A DERIVATION ...................................................................................................................................17

A COUNTERCHANGE........................................................................................................................18

RAIN ......................................................................................................................................................20

THE LETTERS OF MARCELINE VALMORE..................................................................................21

THE HOURS OF SLEEP......................................................................................................................22

THE HORIZON .....................................................................................................................................24

HABITS AND CONSCIOUSNESS ......................................................................................................26

SHADOWS ............................................................................................................................................26


The Spirit of Place and Other Essays

i



Top




Page No 3


The Spirit of Place and Other Essays

Alice Meynell

THE SPIRIT OF PLACE 

MRS. DINGLEY 

SOLITUDE 

THE LADY OF THE LYRICS 

JULY 

WELLS 

THE FOOT 

HAVE PATIENCE, LITTLE SAINT 

THE LADIES OF THE IDYLL 

A DERIVATION 

A COUNTERCHANGE 

RAIN 

THE LETTERS OF MARCELINE VALMORE 

THE HOURS OF SLEEP 

THE HORIZON 

HABITS AND CONSCIOUSNESS 

SHADOWS  

THE SPIRIT OF PLACE

With mimicry, with praises, with echoes, or with answers, the poets  have all but outsung the bells.  The

inarticulate bell has found too  much interpretation, too many rhymes professing to close with her  inaccessible

utterance, and to agree with her remote tongue.  The  bell, like the bird, is a musician pestered with literature. 

To the bell, moreover, men do actual violence.  You cannot shake  together a nightingale's notes, or strike or

drive them into haste,  nor can you make a lark toll for you with intervals to suit your  turn, whereas

weddingbells are compelled to seem gay by mere  movement and hustling.  I have known some grim bells,

with not a  single joyous note in the whole peal, so forced to hurry for a human  festival, with their harshness

made light of, as though the Bishop  of  Hereford had again been forced to dance in his boots by a merry

highwayman. 

The clock is an inexorable but less arbitrary player than the  bellringer, and the chimes await their appointed

time to flywild  prisonersby twos or threes, or in greater companies.  Fugitives  one or twelve taking

wingthey are sudden, they are brief, they are  gone; they are delivered from the close hands of this actual

present.  Not in vain is the sudden upper door opened against the  sky; they are  away, hours of the past. 

Of all unfamiliar bells, those which seem to hold the memory most  surely after but one hearing are bells of an

unseen cathedral of  France when one has arrived by night; they are no more to be  forgotten than the bells in

"Parsifal."  They mingle with the sound  of feet in unknown streets, they are the voices of an unknown tower;

The Spirit of Place and Other Essays 1



Top




Page No 4


they are loud in their own language.  The spirit of place, which is  to be seen in the shapes of the fields and the

manner of the crops,  to be felt in a prevalent wind, breathed in the breath of the earth,  overheard in a far

streetcry or in the tinkle of some blacksmith,  calls out and peals in the cathedral bells.  It speaks its local

tongue remotely, steadfastly, largely, clamorously, loudly, and  greatly by these voices; you hear the sound in

its dignity, and you  know how familiar, how childlike, how lifelong it is in the ears of  the people.  The bells

are strange, and you know how homely they  must  be.  Their utterances are, as it were, the classics of a  dialect. 

Spirit of place!  It is for this we travel, to surprise its  subtlety; and where it is a strong and dominant angel,

that place,  seen once, abides entire in the memory with all its own accidents,  its habits, its breath, its name.  It

is recalled all a lifetime,  having been perceived a week, and is not scattered but abides, one  living body of

remembrance.  The untravelled spirit of placenot to  be pursued, for it never flies, but always to be

discovered, never  absent, without variationlurks in the byways and rules over the  towers, indestructible,

an indescribable unity.  It awaits us always  in its ancient and eager freshness.  It is sweet and nimble within  its

immemorial boundaries, but it never crosses them.  Long white  roads outside have mere suggestions of it and

prophecies; they give  promise not of its coming, for it abides, but of a new and singular  and unforeseen goal

for our present pilgrimage, and of an intimacy  to  be made.  Was ever journey too hard or too long that had to

pay  such a  visit?  And if by good fortune it is a child who is the  pilgrim, the  spirit of place gives him a

peculiar welcome, for  antiquity and the  conceiver of antiquity (who is only a child) know  one another; nor is

there a more delicate perceiver of locality than  a child.  He is well  used to words and voices that he does not

understand, and this is a  condition of his simplicity; and when  those unknown words are bells,  loud in the

night, they are to him as  homely and as old as lullabies. 

If, especially in England, we make rough and reluctant bells go in  gay measures, when we whip them to run

down the scale to ring in a  weddingbells that would step to quite another and a less agile  march with a

better gracethere are belfries that hold far sweeter  companies.  If there is no music within Italian churches,

there is a  most curious local immemorial music in many a campanile on the  heights.  Their way is for the

ringers to play a tune on the  festivals, and the tunes are not hymn tunes or popular melodies, but  proper

belltunes, made for bells.  Doubtless they were made in  times  better versed than ours in the subdivisions of

the arts, and  better  able to understand the strength that lies ready in the mere  little  submission to the means of

a little art, and to the limits  nay, the  very embarrassmentsof those means.  If it were but  possible to give

here a real belltunewhich cannot be, for those  melodies are rather  longthe reader would understand

how some  village musician of the  past used his narrow means as a composer for  the bells, with what

freshness, completeness, significance, fancy,  and what effect of  liberty. 

These hamletbells are the sweetest, as to their own voices, in the  world.  Then I speak of their antiquity I use

the word relatively.  The belfries are no older than the sixteenth or seventeenth century,  the time when Italy

seems to have been generally rebuilt.  But,  needless to say, this is antiquity for music, especially in Italy.  At

that time they must have had foundries for bells of tender  voices, and  pure, warm, light, and golden throats,

precisely tuned.  The hounds of  Theseus had not a more just scale, tuned in a peal,  than a North  Italian belfry

holds in leash.  But it does not send  them out in a  mere scale, it touches them in the order of the game  of a

charming  melody.  Of all cheerful sounds made by man this is by  far the most  lighthearted.  You do not hear

it from the great  churches.  Giotto's  coloured tower in Florence, that carries the  bells for Santa Maria del  Fiore

and Brunelleschi's silent dome, does  not ring more than four  contralto notes, tuned with sweetness,  depth, and

dignity, and  swinging one musical phrase which softly  fills the country. 

The village belfry it is that grows so fantastic and has such  nimble  bells.  Obviously it stands alone with its

own village, and can  therefore hear its own tune from beginning to end.  There are no  other bells in earshot.

Other such dovecotedoors are suddenly set  open to the cloud, on a festa morning, to let fly those

softvoiced  flocks, but the nearest is behind one of many mountains, and our  local tune is uninterrupted.

Doubtless this is why the little,  secluded, sequestered art of composing melodies for bellscharming

division of an art, having its own ends and means, and keeping its  own wings for unfolding by lawdwells


The Spirit of Place and Other Essays

The Spirit of Place and Other Essays 2



Top




Page No 5


in these solitary places.  No  tunes in a town would get this hearing, or would be made clear to  the  end of their

frolic amid such a wide and lofty silence. 

Nor does every inner village of Italy hold a belltune of its own;  the custom is Ligurian.  Nowhere so much as

in Genoa does the  nervous  tourist complain of church bells in the morning, and in fact  he is  made to hear an

honest rout of them betimes.  But the nervous  tourist  has not, perhaps, the sense of place, and the genius of

place does not  signal to him to go and find it among innumerable  hills, where one by  one, one by one, the

belfries stand and play  their tunes.  Variable  are those lonely melodies, having a differing  gaiety for the

festivals; and a pitiful air is played for the burial  of a villager. 

As for the poets, there is but one among so many of their bells  that  seems to toll with a spiritual music so loud

as to be unforgotten  when the mind goes up a little higher than the earth, to listen in  thought to earth's

untethered sounds.  This is Milton's curfew, that  sways across one of the greatest of all the seashores of

poetry  "the widewatered." 

MRS. DINGLEY

We cannot do her honour by her Christian name. {1}  All we have to  call her by more tenderly is the mere D,

the D that ties her to  Stella, with whom she made the twoinone whom Swift loved "better a  thousand times

than life, as hope saved."  MD, without full stops,  Swift writes it eight times in a line for the pleasure of

writing  it.  "MD sometimes means Stella alone," says one of many editors.  "The  letters were written

nominally to Stella and Mrs. Dingley,"  says  another, "but it does not require to be said that it was really  for

Stella's sake alone that they were penned."  Not so.  "MD" never  stands for Stella alone.  And the editor does

not yet live who shall  persuade one honest reader, against the word of Swift, that Swift  loved Stella only,

with an ordinary love, and not, by a most  delicate  exception, Stella and Dingley, so joined that they make the

"she" and  "her" of every letter.  And this shall be a paper of  reparation to  Mrs. Dingley. 

No one else in literary history has been so defrauded of her  honours.  In love "to divide is not to take away,"

as Shelley says;  and Dingley's half of the tender things said to MD is equal to any  whole, and takes nothing

from the whole of Stella's half.  But the  sentimentalist has fought against Mrs. Dingley from the outset.  He  has

disliked her, shirked her, misconceived her, and effaced her.  Sly  sentimentalisthe finds her irksome.

Through one of his most  modern  representatives he has but lately called her a "chaperon."  A  chaperon! 

MD was not a sentimentalist.  Stella was not so, though she has  been  pressed into that character; D certainly

was not, and has in this  respect been spared by the chronicler; and MD together were "saucy  charming MD,"

"saucy little, pretty, dear rogues," "little monkeys  mine," "little mischievous girls," "nautinautinautidear

girls,"  "brats," "huzzies both," "impudence and saucyface," "saucy noses,"  "my dearest lives and delights,"

"dear little young women," "good  dallars, not crying dallars" (which means "girls"), "ten thousand  times

dearest MD," and so forth in a hundred repetitions.  They are,  every now and then, "poor MD," but obviously

not because of their  own  complaining.  Swift called them so because they were mortal; and  he,  like all great

souls, lived and loved, conscious every day of  the  price, which is death. 

The two were joined by love, not without solemnity, though man,  with  his summary and wholesale

readymade sentiment, has thus  obstinately  put them asunder.  No wholesale sentiment can do otherwise  than

foolishly play havoc with such a relation.  To Swift it was the  most  secluded thing in the world.  "I am weary

of friends, and  friendships are all monsters, except MD's;" "I ought to read these  letters I write after I have

done.  But I hope it does not puzzle  little Dingley to read, for I think I mend:  but methinks," he adds,  "when I

write plain, I do not know how, but we are not alone, all  the  world can see us.  A bad scrawl is so snug; it

looks like PMD."  Again:  "I do not like women so much as I did.  MD, you must know,  are not  women."  "God

Almighty preserve you both and make us happy  together."  "I say Amen with all my heart and vitals, that we


The Spirit of Place and Other Essays

MRS. DINGLEY 3



Top




Page No 6


may  never be  asunder ten days together while poor Presto lives."  "Farewell, dearest  beloved MD, and love

poor, poor Presto, who has  not had one happy day  since he left you, as hope saved." 

With themwith herhe hid himself in the world, at Court, at the  bar of St. James's coffeehouse, whither

he went on the Irish mail  day, and was "in pain except he saw MD's little handwriting."  He  hid  with them in

the long labours of these exquisite letters every  night  and morning.  If no letter came, he comforted himself

with  thinking  that "he had it yet to be happy with."  And the world has  agreed to  hide under its own manifold

and lachrymose blunders the  grace and  singularitythe distinctionof this sweet romance.  "Little,

sequestered pleasurehouse"it seemed as though "the many  could not  miss it," but not even the few have

found it. 

It is part of the scheme of the sympathetic historian that Stella  should be the victim of hope deferred,

watching for letters from  Swift.  But day and night Presto complains of the scantiness of MD's  little letters; he

waits upon "her" will:  "I shall make a sort of  journal, and when it is full I will send it whether MD writes or

not;  and so that will be pretty."  "Naughty girls that will not  write to a  body!"  "I wish you were whipped for

forgetting to send.  Go, be far  enough, negligent baggages."  "You, Mistress Stella,  shall write your  share, and

then comes Dingley altogether, and then  Stella a little  crumb at the end; and then conclude with something

handsome and  genteel, as `your most humble cumdumble.'"  But Scott  and Macaulay and  Thackeray are all

exceedingly sorry for Stella. 

Swift is most charming when he is feigning to complain of his task:  "Here is such a stir and bustle with this

little MD of ours; I must  be writing every night; O Lord, O Lord!"  "I must go write idle  things, and twittle

twattle."  "These saucy jades take up so much of  my time with writing to them in the morning."  Is it not a

stealthy  wrong done upon Mrs. Dingley that she should be stripped of all  these  ornaments to her name and

memory?  When Swift tells a woman in  a  letter that there he is "writing in bed, like a tiger," she should  go  gay

in the eyes of all generations. 

They will not let Stella go gay, because of sentiment; and they  will  not let Mrs. Dingley go gay, because of

sentiment for Stella.  Marry  come up!  Why did not the historians assign all the tender  passages  (taken very

seriously) to Stella, and let Dingley have the  jokes,  then?  That would have been no ill share for Dingley.  But

no,  forsooth, Dingley is allowed nothing. 

There are passages, nevertheless, which can hardly be taken from  her.  For now and then Swift parts his dear

MD.  When he does so he  invariably drops those initials and writes "Stella" or "Ppt" for the  one, and "D" or

"Dingley" for the other.  There is no exception to  this anywhere.  He is anxious about Stella's "little eyes," and

about  her health generally; whereas Dingley is strong.  Poor Ppt, he  thinks,  will not catch the "new fever,"

because she is not well;  "but why  should D escape it, pray?"  And Mrs. Dingley is rebuked for  her tale  of a

journey from Dublin to Wexford.  "I doubt, Madam  Dingley, you are  apt to lie in your travels, though not so

bad as  Stella; she tells  thumpers."  Stella is often reproved for her  spelling, and Mrs.  Dingley writes much the

better hand.  But she is  a puzzleheaded  woman, like another.  "What do you mean by my fourth  letter,

Madam  Dinglibus?  Does not Stella say you had my fifth,  goody Blunder?"  "Now, Mistress Dingley, are you

not an impudent  slut to except a  letter next packet?  Unreasonable baggage!  No,  little Dingley, I am  always in

bed by twelve, and I take great care  of myself."  "You are a  pretending slut, indeed, with your `fourth'  and

`fifth' in the margin,  and your `journal' and everything.  O  Lord, never saw the like, we  shall never have

done."  "I never saw  such a letter, so saucy, so  journalish, so everything."  Swift is  insistently grateful for their

inquiries for his health.  He pauses  seriously to thank them in the  midst of his prattle.  Both women

MDare rallied on their politics:  "I have a fancy that Ppt is a  Tory, I fancy she looks like one, and D  a sort

of trimmer." 

But it is for Dingley separately that Swift endured a wild bird in  his lodgings.  His man Patrick had got one to

take over to her in  Ireland.  "He keeps it in a closet, where it makes a terrible  litter;  but I say nothing; I am as


The Spirit of Place and Other Essays

MRS. DINGLEY 4



Top




Page No 7


tame as a clout." 

Forgotten Dingley, happy in this, has not had to endure the  ignominy, in a hundred essays, to be

retrospectively offered to  Swift  as an unclaimed wife; so far so good.  But two hundred years  is long  for her to

have gone stripped of so radiant a glory as is  hers by  right.  "Better, thanks to MD's prayers," wrote the

immortal  man who  loved her, in a private fragment of a journal, never meant  for  Dingley's eyes, nor for Ppt's,

nor for any human eyes; and the  rogue  Stella has for two centuries stolen all the credit of those  prayers,  and

all the thanks of that pious benediction. 

SOLITUDE

The wild man is alone at will, and so is the man for whom  civilization has been kind.  But there are the

multitudes to whom  civilization has given little but its reaction, its rebound, its  chips, its refuse, its shavings,

sawdust and waste, its failures; to  them solitude is a right foregone or a luxury unattained; a right  foregone,

we may name it, in the case of the nearly savage, and a  luxury unattained in the case of the nearly refined.

These has the  movement of the world thronged together into some blind byway. 

Their share in the enormous solitude which is the common,  unbounded,  and virtually illimitable possession of

all mankind has  lapsed,  unclaimed.  They do not know it is theirs.  Of many of their  kingdoms they are

ignorant, but of this most ignorant.  They have  not  guessed that they own for every man a space inviolate, a

place  of  unhidden liberty and of no obscure enfranchisement.  They do not  claim  even the solitude of closed

corners, the narrow privacy of the  lock  and key; nor could they command so much.  For the solitude that  has a

sky and a horizon they know not how to wish. 

It lies in a perpetual distance.  England has leagues thereof,  landscapes, verge beyond verge, a thousand

thousand places in the  woods, and on uplifted hills.  Or rather, solitudes are not to be  measured by miles; they

are to be numbered by days.  They are  freshly  and freely the dominion of every man for the day of his

possession.  There is loneliness for innumerable solitaries.  As  many days as  there are in all the ages, so many

solitudes are there  for men.  This  is the open house of the earth; no one is refused.  Nor is the space  shortened

or the silence marred because, one by  one, men in multitudes  have been alone there before.  Solitude is

separate experience.  Nay,  solitudes are not to be numbered by days,  but by men themselves.  Every man of the

living and every man of the  dead might have had his  "privacy of light." 

It needs no park.  It is to be found in the merest working country;  and a thicket may be as secret as a forest.  It

is not so difficult  to get for a time out of sight and earshot.  Even if your solitude  be  enclosed, it is still an

open solitude, so there be "no cloister  for  the eyes," and a space of far country or a cloud in the sky be  privy

to your hidingplace.  But the best solitude does not hide at  all. 

This the people who have drifted together into the streets live  whole lives and never know.  Do they suffer

from their deprivation  of  even the solitude of the hidingplace?  There are many who never  have  a whole hour

alone.  They live in reluctant or indifferent  companionship, as people may in a boardinghouse, by

paradoxical  choice, familiar with one another and not intimate.  They live under  careless observation and

subject to a vagabond curiosity.  Theirs is  the involuntary and perhaps the unconscious loss which is futile and

barren. 

One knows the men, and the many women, who have sacrificed all  their  solitude to the perpetual society of

the school, the cloister,  or  the hospital ward.  They walk without secrecy, candid, simple,  visible, without

moods, unchangeable, in a constant communication  and  practice of action and speech.  Theirs assuredly is no

barren or  futile loss, and they have a conviction, and they bestow the  conviction, of solitude deferred. 


The Spirit of Place and Other Essays

SOLITUDE 5



Top




Page No 8


Who has painted solitude so that the solitary seemed to stand alone  and inaccessible?  There is the loneliness

of the shepherdess in  many  a drawing of J.F. Millet.  The little figure is away, aloof.  The girl  stands so when

the painter is gone.  She waits so on the  sun for the  closing of the hours of pasture.  Millet has her as she  looks,

out of  sight. 

Now, although solitude is a prepared, secured, defended, elaborate  possession of the rich, they too deny

themselves the natural  solitude  of a woman with a child.  A newlyborn child is so nursed  and talked  about,

handled and jolted and carried about by aliens,  and there is so  much importunate service going forward, that a

woman  is hardly alone  long enough to become aware, in recollection, how  her own blood moves  separately,

beside her, with another rhythm and  different pulses.  All  is commonplace until the doors are closed  upon the

two.  This unique  intimacy is a profound retreat, an  absolute seclusion.  It is more  than single solitude; it is a

redoubled isolation more remote than  mountains, safer than valleys,  deeper than forests, and further than

midsea. 

That solitude partakenthe only partaken solitude in the worldis  the Point of Honour of ethics.  Treachery

to that obligation and a  betrayal of that confidence might well be held to be the least  pardonable of all crimes.

There is no innocent sleep so innocent as  sleep shared between a woman and a child, the little breath hurrying

beside the longer, as a child's foot runs.  But the favourite crime  of the sentimentalist is that of a woman

against her child.  Her  power, her intimacy, her opportunity, that should be her accusers,  are held to excuse

her.  She gains the most slovenly of indulgences  and the grossest compassion, on the vulgar grounds that her

crime  was  easy. 

Lawless and vain art of a certain kind is apt to claim today, by  the way, some such fondling as a heroine of

the dock receives from  common opinion.  The vain artist had all the opportunities of the  situation.  He was

master of his own purpose, such as it was; it was  his secret, and the public was not privy to his artistic

conscience.  He does violence to the obligations of which he is aware, and which  the world does not know

very explicitly.  Nothing is easier.  Or he  is lawless in a more literal sense, but only hopes the world will

believe that he has a whole code of his own making.  It would,  nevertheless, be less unworthy to break

obvious rules obviously in  the obvious face of the public, and to abide the common rebuke. 

It has just been said that a park is by no means necessary for the  preparation of a country solitude.  Indeed, to

make those far and  wide and long approaches and avenues to peace seems to be a denial  of  the accessibility

of what should be so simple.  A step, a pace or  so  aside, is enough to lead thither. 

A park insists too much, and, besides, does not insist very  sincerely.  In order to fulfil the apparent professions

and to keep  the published promise of a park, the owner thereof should be a lover  of long seclusion or of a

very life of loneliness.  He should have  gained the state of solitariness which is a condition of life quite  unlike

any other.  The traveller who may have gone astray in  countries where an almost lifelong solitude is possible

knows how  invincibly apart are the lonely figures he has seen in desert places  there.  Their loneliness is

broken by his passage, it is true, but  hardly so to them.  They look at him, but they are not aware that he  looks

at them.  Nay, they look at him as though they were invisible.  Their unselfconsciousness is absolute; it is in

the wild degree.  They are solitaries, body and soul; even when they are curious, and  turn to watch the

passerby, they are essentially alone.  Now, no  one  ever found that attitude in a squire's figure, or that look in

any  country gentleman's eyes.  The squire is not a lifelong  solitary.  He  never bore himself as though he were

invisible.  He  never had the  impersonal ways of a herdsman in the remoter  Apennines, with a blind,  blank hut

in the rocks for his dwelling.  Millet would not even have  taken him as a model for a solitary in  the briefer and

milder sylvan  solitudes of France.  And yet nothing  but a lifelong, habitual, and  wild solitariness would be

quite  proportionate to a park of any  magnitude. 

If there is a look of human eyes that tells of perpetual  loneliness,  so there is also the familiar look that is the

sign of  perpetual  crowds.  It is the London expression, and, in its way, the  Paris  expression.  It is the quickly


The Spirit of Place and Other Essays

SOLITUDE 6



Top




Page No 9


caught, though not interested,  look,  the dull but ready glance of those who do not know of their  forfeited

place apart; who have neither the open secret nor the  close; no reserve, no need of refuge, no flight nor

impulse of  flight; no moods but what they may brave out in the street, no hope  of news from solitary

counsels. 

THE LADY OF THE LYRICS

She is eclipsed, or gone, or in hiding.  But the sixteenth century  took her for granted as the object of song; she

was a class, a  state,  a sex.  It was scarcely necessary to waste the lyrist's time  time  that went so gaily to

metre as not to brook delaysin making  her out  too clearly.  She had no more of what later times call

individuality  than has the rose, her rival, her foil when she was  kinder, her  superior when she was cruel, her

ever fresh and ever  conventional  paragon.  She needed not to be devised or divined; she  was ready.  A  merry

heart goes all the day; the lyrist's never grew  weary.  Honest  men never grow tired of bread or of any other

daily  things whereof the  sweetness is in their own simplicity. 

The lady of the lyrics was not loved in mortal earnest, and her  punishment now and then for her ingratitude

was to be told that she  was loved in jest.  She did not love; her fancy was fickle; she was  not moved by long

service, which, by the way, was evidently to be  taken for granted precisely like the whole long past of a

dream.  She  had not a good temper.  When the poet groans it seems that she  has  laughed at him; when he flouts

her, we may understand that she  has  chidden her lyrist in no temperate terms.  In doing this she has  sinned not

so much against him as against Love.  With that she is  perpetually reproved.  The lyrist complains to Love,

pities Love for  her scorning, and threatens to go away with Love, who is on his  side.  The sweetest verse is

tuned to love when the loved one proves  worthy. 

There is no record of success for this policy.  She goes on dancing  or scolding, as the case may be, and the

lyrist goes on boasting of  his constancy, or suddenly renounces it for a day.  The situation  has  variants, but no

surprise or ending.  The lover's convention is  explicit enough, but it might puzzle a reader to account for the

lady's.  Pride in her beauty, at any rate, is herspride so great  that she cannot bring herself to perceive the

shortness of her day.  She is so unobservant as to need to be told that life is brief, and  youth briefer than life;

that the rose fades, and so forth. 

Now we need not assume that the lady of the lyrics ever lived.  But  taking her as the perfectly unanimous

conception of the lyrists, how  is it she did not discover these things unaided?  Why does the lover  invariably

imagine her with a mind intensely irritable under his own  praise and poetry?  Obviously we cannot have her

explanation of any  of these matters.  Why do the poets so much lament the absence of  truth in one whose truth

would be of little moment?  And why was the  convention so pleasant, among all others, as to occupy a whole

age  nay, two great agesof literature? 

Music seems to be principally answerable.  For the lyrics of the  lady are "words for music" by a great

majority.  There is hardly a  single poem in the Elizabethan Songbooks, properly so named, that  has what

would in our day be called a tone of sentiment.  Music had  not then the tone herself; she was ingenious, and so

must the words  be.  She had the air of epigram, and an accurately definite limit.  So, too, the lady of the lyrics,

who might be called the lady of the  stanzas, so strictly does she go by measure.  When she is  quarrelsome, it is

but fuguishness; when she dances, she does it by  a  canon.  She could not but be perverse, merrily sung to such

grave  notes. 

So fixed was the law of this perversity that none in the songbooks  is allowed to be kind enough for a

"melody," except one lady only.  She may thus derogate, for the exceedingly Elizabethan reason that  she is

"brown."  She is brown and kind, and a "sad flower," but the  song made for her would have been too insipid,

apparently, without  an  antithesis.  The fair one is warned that her disdain makes her  even  less lovely than the


The Spirit of Place and Other Essays

THE LADY OF THE LYRICS 7



Top




Page No 10


brown. 

Fair as a lily, hard to please, easily angry, ungrateful for  innumerable verses, uncertain with the regularity of

the madrigal,  and inconstant with the punctuality of a stanza, she has gone with  the arts of that day; and

neither verse nor music will ever make  such  another lady.  She refused to observe the transiency of roses;  she

never really intendedmuch as she was urgedto be a  shepherdess; she  was never persuaded to mitigate

her dress.  In  return, the world has  let her disappear.  She scorned the poets  until they turned upon her  in the

epigram of many a final couplet;  and of these the last has been  long written.  Her "No" was set to  counterpoint

in the partsong, and  she frightened Love out of her  sight in a ballet.  Those occupations  are gone, and the

lovely  Elizabethan has slipped away.  She was  something less than mortal. 

But she who was more than mortal was mortal too.  This was no lady  of the unanimous lyrists, but a rare

visitant unknown to these  exquisite little talents.  She was not set for singing, but poetry  spoke of her;

sometimes when she was sleeping, and then Fletcher  said   

None can rock Heaven to sleep but her.

Or when she was singing, and Carew rhymed  

Ask me no more whither doth haste

The nightingale when May is past;

For in your sweet dividing throat

She winters, and keeps warm her note.

Sometimes when the lady was dead, and Carew, again, wrote on her  monument  

And here the precious dust is laid,

Whose purelytempered clay was made

So fine that it the guest betrayed.

But there was besides another Lady of the lyrics; one who will  never  pass from the world, but has passed

from song.  In the sixteenth  century and in the seventeenth century this lady was Death.  Her  inspiration never

failed; not a poet but found it as fresh as the  inspiration of life.  Fancy was not quenched by the inevitable

thought in those days, as it is in ours, and the phrase lost no  dignity by the integrity of use. 

To every man it happens that at one time of his lifefor a space  of  years or for a space of monthshe is

convinced of death with an  incomparable reality.  It might seem as though literature, living  the  life of a man,

underwent that conviction in those ages.  Death  was as  often on the tongues of men in older ages, and oftener

in  their hands,  but in the sixteenth century it was at their hearts.  The discovery of  death did not shake the

poets from their composure.  On the contrary,  the verse is never measured with more majestic  effect than

when it  moves in honour of this Lady of the lyrics.  Sir  Walter Raleigh is but  a jerky writer when he is

rhyming other  things, however bitter or  however solemn; but his lines on death,  which are also lines on

immortality, are infinitely noble.  These  are, needless to say,  meditations upon death by law and violence;  and


The Spirit of Place and Other Essays

THE LADY OF THE LYRICS 8



Top




Page No 11


so are the ingenious  rhymes of Chidiock Tichborne, written after  his last prose in his  farewell letter to his

wife"Now, Sweet  cheek, what is left to  bestow on thee, a small recompense for thy  deservings"and

singularly  beautiful prose is this.  So also are  Southwell's words.  But these  are exceptional deaths, and more

dramatic than was needed to awake the  poetry of the meditative age. 

It was death as the end of the visible world and of the idle  business of lifenot death as a passage nor death

as a fear or a  darknessthat was the Lady of the lyrists.  Nor was their song of  the act of dying.  With this a

much later and much more trivial  literature busied itself.  Those two centuries felt with a shock  that  death

would bring an end, and that its equalities would make  vain the  differences of wit and wealth which they took

apparently  more  seriously than to us seems probable.  They never wearied of the  wonder.  The poetry of our

day has an entirely different emotion for  death as parting.  It was not parting that the lyrists sang of; it  was the

mere simplicity of death.  None of our contemporaries will  take such a subject; they have no more than the

ordinary conviction  of the matter.  For the great treatment of obvious things there must  evidently be an

extraordinary conviction. 

But whether the chief Lady of the lyrics be this, or whether she be  the implacable Elizabethan feigned by the

lovesongs, she has  equally  passed from before the eyes of poets. 

JULY

One has the leisure of July for perceiving all the differences of  the green of leaves.  It is no longer a difference

in degrees of  maturity, for all the trees have darkened to their final tone, and  stand in their differences of

character and not of mere date.  Almost  all the green is grave, not sad and not dull.  It has a  darkened and a

daily colour, in majestic but not obvious harmony  with dark grey  skies, and might look, to inconstant eyes, as

prosaic  after spring as  eleven o'clock looks after the dawn. 

Gravity is the wordnot solemnity as towards evening, nor menace  as  at night.  The daylight trees of July are

signs of common beauty,  common freshness, and a mystery familiar and abiding as night and  day.  In

childhood we all have a more exalted sense of dawn and  summer sunrise than we ever fully retain or quite

recover; and also  a  far higher sensibility for April and April eveningsa heartache  for  them, which in riper

years is gradually and irretrievably  consoled. 

But, on the other hand, childhood has so quickly learned to find  daily things tedious, and familiar things

importunate, that it has  no  great delight in the mere middle of the day, and feels weariness  of  the summer that

has ceased to change visibly.  The poetry of mere  day  and of late summer becomes perceptible to mature eyes

that have  long  ceased to be sated, have taken leave of weariness, and cannot  now find  anything in nature too

familiar; eyes which have, indeed,  lost sight  of the further awe of midsummer daybreak, and no longer  see so

much of  the past in April twilight as they saw when they had  no past; but  which look freshly at the dailiness

of green summer, of  early  afternoon, of every sky of any form that comes to pass, and of  the  darkened elms. 

Not unbeloved is this serious tree, the elm, with its leaf sitting  close, unthrilled.  Its stature gives it a dark gold

head when it  looks alone to a late sun.  But if one could go by all the woods,  across all the old forests that are

now meadowlands set with trees,  and could walk a county gathering trees of a single kind in the  mind,  as one

walks a garden collecting flowers of a single kind in  the hand,  would not the harvest be a harvest of poplars?

A  veritable passion  for poplars is a most intelligible passion.  The  eyes do gather them,  far and near, on a

whole day's journey.  Not  one is unperceived, even  though great timber should be passed, and  hillsides dense

and deep  with trees.  The fancy makes a poplar day  of it.  Immediately the  country looks alive with signals; for

the  poplars everywhere reply to  the glance.  The woods may be all  various, but the poplars are  separate. 

All their many kinds (and aspens, their kin, must be counted with  them) shake themselves perpetually free of


The Spirit of Place and Other Essays

JULY 9



Top




Page No 12


the motionless forest.  It  is easy to gather them.  Glances sent into the far distance pay  them a  flash of

recognition of their gentle flashes; and as you  journey you  are suddenly aware of them close by.  Light and the

breezes are as  quick as the eyes of a poplarlover to find the  willing tree that  dances to be seen. 

No lurking for them, no reluctance.  One could never make for  oneself an oak day so well.  The oaks would

wait to be found, and  many would be missed from the gathering.  But the poplars are alert  enough for a

traveller by express; they have an alarum aloft, and do  not sleep.  From within some little grove of other trees

a single  poplar makes a slight sign; or a long row of poplars suddenly sweep  the wind.  They are salient

everywhere, and full of replies.  They  are as fresh as streams. 

It is difficult to realize a drought where there are many poplars.  And yet their green is not rich; the coolest

have a colour much  mingled with a cloudgrey.  It does but need fresh and simple eyes  to  recognize their

unfaded life.  When the other trees grow dark and  keep  still, the poplar and the aspen do not darkenor

hardlyand  the  deepest summer will not find a day in which they do not keep  awake.  No waters are so

vigilant, even where a lake is bare to the  wind. 

When Keats said of his Dian that she fastened up her hair "with  fingers cool as aspen leaves," he knew the

coolest thing in the  world.  It is a coolness of colour, as well as of a leaf which the  breeze takes on both

sidesthe greenish and the greyish.  The  poplar  green has no glows, no gold; it is an austere colour, as  little

rich  as the colour of willows, and less silvery than theirs.  The sun can  hardly gild it; but he can shine

between.  Poplars and  aspens let the  sun through with the wind.  You may have the sky  sprinkled through  them

in high midsummer, when all the woods are  close. 

Sending your fancy poplargathering, then, you ensnare wild trees,  beating with life.  No fisher's net ever took

such glancing fishes,  nor did the net of a constellation's shape ever enclose more  vibrating Pleiades. 

WELLS

The world at present is inclined to make sorry mysteries or  unattractive secrets of the methods and supplies of

the fresh and  perennial means of life.  A very dull secret is made of water, for  example, and the plumber sets

his seal upon the floods whereby we  live.  They are covered, they are carried, they are hushed, from the  spring

to the tap; and when their voices are released at last in the  London scullery, why, it can hardly be said that the

song is  eloquent  of the natural source of waters, whether earthly or  heavenly.  There  is not one of the

circumstances of this capture of  streamsthe  company, the waterrate, and the restthat is not a  sign of the

illluck of modern devices in regard to style.  For  style implies a  candour and simplicity of means, an action,

a  gesture, as it were, in  the doing of small things; it is the  ignorance of secret ways; whereas  the finish of

modern life and its  neatness seem to be secured by a  system of little shufflings and  surprises. 

Dress, among other things, is furnished throughout with such  fittings; they form its very construction.  Style

does not exist in  modern arrayings, for all their prettiness and precision, and for  all  the successeswhich are

not to be deniedof their outer part;  the  happy little swagger that simulates style is but another sign of  its

absence, being prepared by mere dodges and dexterities beneath,  and  the triumph and success of the present

art of raiment"fit"  itselfis but the result of a masked and lurking labour and device. 

The masters of fine manners, moreover, seem to be always aware of  the beauty that comes of pausing slightly

upon the smaller and  slighter actions, such as meaner men are apt to hurry out of the  way.  In a word, the

workman, with his finish and accomplishment, is  the  dexterous provider of contemporary things; and the

ready, well  appointed, and decorated life of all towns is now altogether in his  hands; whereas the artist

craftsman of other times made a  manifestation of his means.  The first hides the streams, under  stress and

pressure, in paltry pipes which we all must make haste to  call upon the earth to cover, and the second lifted


The Spirit of Place and Other Essays

WELLS 10



Top




Page No 13


up the arches of  the aqueduct. 

The search of easy ways to live is not always or everywhere the way  to ugliness, but in some countries, at

some dates, it is the sure  way.  In all countries, and at all dates, extreme finish compassed  by  hidden means

must needs, from the beginning, prepare the  abolition of  dignity.  This is easy to understand, but it is less  easy

to explain  the illfortune that presses upon the expert  workman, in search of  easy ways to live, all the

illfavoured  materials, makes them cheap  for him, makes them serviceable and  effectual, urges him to use

them,  seal them, and inter them, turning  the trim and dull completeness out  to the view of the daily world.  It

is an added mischance.  Nor, on the  other hand, is it easy to  explain the beautiful good luck attending  the

simpler devices which  are, after all, only less expert ways of  labour.  In those happy  conditions, neither from

the material,  suggesting to the workman,  nor from the workman looking askance at his  unhandsome material,

comes a first proposal to pour in cement and make  fast the  underworld, out of sight.  But fate spares not that

suggestion to  the able and the unlucky at their task of making neat  work of the  means, the distribution, the

traffick of life. 

The springs, then, the profound wells, the streams, are of all the  means of our lives those which we should

wish to see open to the  sun,  with their waters on their progress and their way to us; but,  no, they  are lapped in

lead. 

King Pandion and his friends lie not under heavier seals. 

Yet we have been delighted, elsewhere, by open floods.  The hiding  place that nature and the simpler crafts

allot to the waters of  wells  are, at their deepest, in communication with the open sky.  No  other  mine is so

visited; for the noonday sun himself is visible  there; and  it is fine to think of the waters of this planet, shallow

and  profound, all charged with shining suns, a multitude of waters  multiplying suns, and carrying that remote

fire, as it were, within  their unalterable freshness.  Not a pool without this visitant, or  without passages of

stars.  As for the wells of the Equator, you may  think of them in their last recesses as the daily bathingplaces

of  light; a luminous fancy is able so to scatter fitful figures of the  sun, and to plunge them in thousands within

those deeps. 

Round images lie in the dark waters, but in the bright waters the  sun is shattered out of its circle, scattered

into waves, broken  across stones, and rippled over sand; and in the shallow rivers that  fall through chestnut

woods the image is mingled with the mobile  figures of leaves.  To all these waters the agile air has perpetual

access.  Not so can great towns be watered, it will be said with  reason; and this is precisely the illluck of

great towns. 

Nevertheless, there are towns, not, in a sense, so great, that have  the grace of visible wells; such as Venice,

where every campo has  its  circle of carved stone, its clashing of dark copper on the  pavement,  its soft kiss of

the copper vessel with the surface of the  water  below, and the cheerful work of the cable. 

Or the Romans knew how to cause the parted floods to measure their  plain with the strong, steady, and level

flight of arches from the  watersheds in the hills to the and city; and having the waters  captive, they knew how

to compel them to take part, by fountains, in  this Roman triumph.  They had the wit to boast thus of their

brilliant prisoner. 

None more splendid came bound to Rome, or graced captivity with a  more invincible liberty of the heart.

And the captivity and the  leap  of the heart of the waters have outlived their captors.  They  have  remained in

Rome, and have remained alone.  Over them the  victory was  longer than empire, and their thousands of loud

voices  have never  ceased to confess the conquest of the cold floods,  separated long ago,  drawn one by one,

alive, to the head and front  of the world. 


The Spirit of Place and Other Essays

WELLS 11



Top




Page No 14


Of such a transit is made no secret.  It was the most manifest fact  of Rome.  You could not look to the city

from the mountains or to  the  distance from the city without seeing the approach of those  perpetual

waterswaters bound upon daily tasks and minute services.  This, then,  was the style of a master, who does

not lapse from  "incidental  greatness," has no mean precision, out of sight, to  prepare the finish  of his phrases,

and does not think the means and  the approaches are to  be plotted and concealed.  Without anxiety,  without

haste, and without  misgiving are all great things to be  done, and neither interruption in  the doing nor ruin

after they are  done finds anything in them to  betray.  There was never any disgrace  of means, and when the

world  sees the work broken through there is  no disgrace of discovery.  The  labour of Michelangelo's chisel,

little more than begun, a Roman  structure long exposed in disarray  upon these the light of day looks  full,

and the Roman and the  Florentine have their unrefuted praise. 

THE FOOT

Time was when no good news made a journey, and no friend came near,  but a welcome was uttered, or at

least thought, for the travelling  feet of the wayfarer or the herald.  The feet, the feet were  beautiful on the

mountains; their toil was the price of all  communication, and their reward the first service and refreshment.

They were blessed and bathed; they suffered, but they were friends  with the earth; dews in grass at morning,

shallow rivers at noon,  gave them coolness.  They must have grown hard upon their mountain  paths, yet never

so hard but they needed and had the first pity and  the readiest succour.  It was never easy for the feet of man

to  travel this earth, shod or unshod, and his feet are delicate, like  his colour. 

If they suffered hardship once, they suffer privation now.  Yet the  feet should have more of the acquaintance

of earth, and know more of  flowers, freshness, cool brooks, wild thyme, and salt sand than does  anything else

about us.  It is their calling; and the hands might be  glad to be stroked for a day by grass and struck by

buttercups, as  the feet are of those who go barefoot; and the nostrils might be  flattered to be, like them, so

long near moss.  The face has only  now  and then, for a restingwhile, their privilege. 

If our feet are now so severed from the natural ground, they have  inevitably lost life and strength by the

separation.  It is only the  entirely unshod that have lively feet.  Watch a peasant who never  wears shoes, except

for a few unkind hours once a week, and you may  see the play of his talk in his mobile feet; they become as

dramatic  as his hands.  Fresh as the air, brown with the light, and healthy  from the field, not used to darkness,

not grown in prison, the foot  of the contadino is not abashed.  It is the foot of high life that  is  prim, and never

lifts a heel against its dull conditions, for it  has  forgotten liberty.  It is more active now than it lately was

certainly the foot of woman is more active; but whether on the pedal  or in the stirrup, or clad for a walk, or

armed for a game, or  decked  for the waltz, it is in bonds.  It is, at any rate,  inarticulate. 

It has no longer a distinct and divided life, or none that is  visible and sensible.  Whereas the whole living body

has naturally  such infinite distinctness that the sense of touch differs, as it  were, with every nerve, and the

fingers are so separate that it was  believed of them of old that each one had its angel, yet the modern  foot is,

as much as possible, deprived of all that delicate  distinction:  undone, unspecialized, sent back to lower forms

of  indiscriminate life.  It is as though a landscape with separate  sweetness in every tree should be rudely

painted with the blank  blank, not simplegeneralities of a vulgar hand.  Or as though one  should take the

pleasures of a day of happiness in a wholesale  fashion, not "turning the hours to moments," which joy can do

to the  full as perfectly as pain. 

The foot, with its articulations, is suppressed, and its language  confused.  When Lovelace likens the hand of

Amarantha to a violin,  and her glove to the case, he has at any rate a glove to deal with,  not a boot.  Yet

Amarantha's foot is as lovely as her hand.  It,  too,  has a "tender inward"; no wayfaring would ever make it

look  anything  but delicate; its arch seems too slight to carry her  through a night  of dances; it does, in fact, but

balance her.  It is  fit to cling to  the ground, but rather for springing than for rest. 


The Spirit of Place and Other Essays

THE FOOT 12



Top




Page No 15


And, doubtless, for man, woman, and child the tender, irregular,  sensitive, living foot, which does not even

stand with all its  little  surface on the ground, and which makes no base to satisfy an  architectural eye, is, as it

were, the unexpected thing.  It is a  part of vital design and has a history; and man does not go erect  but  at a

price of weariness and pain.  How weak it is may be seen  from a  footprint:  for nothing makes a more helpless

and  unsymmetrical sign  than does a naked foot. 

Tender, too, is the silence of human feet.  You have but to pass a  season amongst the barefooted to find that

man, who, shod, makes so  much ado, is naturally as silent as snow.  Woman, who not only makes  her armed

heel heard, but also goes rustling like a shower, is  naturally silent as snow.  The vintager is not heard among

the  vines,  nor the harvester on his threshingfloor of stone.  There is  a kind of  simple stealth in their coming

and going, and they show  sudden smiles  and dark eyes in and out of the rows of harvest when  you thought

yourself alone.  The lack of noise in their movement  sets free the  sound of their voices, and their laughter

floats. 

But we shall not praise the "simple, sweet" and "earthconfiding  feet" enough without thanks for the rule of

verse and for the time  of  song.  If Poetry was first divided by the march, and next varied  by  the dance, then to

the rule of the foot are to be ascribed the  thought, the instruction, and the dream that could not speak by

prose.  Out of that little physical law, then, grew a spiritual law  which is one of the greatest things we know;

and from the test of  the  foot came the ultimate test of the thinker:  "Is it accepted of  Song?" 

The monastery, in like manner, holds its sons to little trivial  rules of time and exactitude, not to be broken,

laws that are made  secure against the restlessness of the heart fretting for  insignificant libertiestrivial laws

to restrain from a trivial  freedom.  And within the gate of these laws which seem so small,  lies  the world of

mystic virtue.  They enclose, they imply, they  lock, they  answer for it.  Lesser virtues may flower in daily

liberty and may  flourish in prose; but infinite virtues and  greatness are compelled to  the measure of poetry,

and obey the  constraint of an hourly convent  bell.  It is no wonder that every  poet worthy the name has had a

passion for metre, for the very  verse.  To him the difficult fetter is  the condition of an interior  range

immeasurable. 

HAVE PATIENCE, LITTLE SAINT

Some considerable time must have gone by since any kind of courtesy  ceased, in England, to be held

necessary in the course of  communication with a beggar.  Feeling may be humane, and the  interior  act most

gentle; there may be a tacit apology, and a  profound  misgiving unexpressed; a reluctance not only to refuse

but  to be  arbiter; a dislike of the office; a regret, whether for the  unequal  distribution of social luck or for a

purse left at home,  equally  sincere; howbeit custom exacts no word or sign, nothing  whatever of  intercourse.

If a dog or a cat accosts you, or a calf  in a field  comes close to you with a candid infant face and  breathing

nostrils of  investigation, or if any kind of animal comes  to you on some obscure  impulse of friendly

approach, you acknowledge  it.  But the beggar to  whom you give nothing expects no answer to a  question, no

recognition  of his presence, not so much as the turn of  your eyelid in his  direction, and never a word to

excuse you. 

Nor does this blank behaviour seem savage to those who are used to  nothing else.  Yet it is somewhat more

inhuman to refuse an answer  to  the beggar's remark than to leave a shop without "Good morning."  When

complaint is made of the modern social mannerthat it has no  merit  but what is negative, and that it is apt

even to abstain from  courtesy  with more lack of grace than the abstinence absolutely  requiresthe  habit of

manner towards beggars is probably not so  much as thought of.  To the simply human eye, however, the

prevalent  manner towards  beggars is a striking thing; it is significant of so  much. 

Obviously it is not easy to reply to begging except by the  intelligible act of giving.  We have not the


The Spirit of Place and Other Essays

HAVE PATIENCE, LITTLE SAINT 13



Top




Page No 16


ingenuous simplicity  that marks the caste answering more or less to that of Vere de Vere,  in Italy, for

example.  An elderly Italian lady on her slow way from  her own ancient ancestral palazzo to the village, and

accustomed to  meet, emptyhanded, a certain number of beggars, answers them by a  retort which would be,

literally translated, "Excuse me, dear; I,  too, am a poor devil," and the last word she naturally puts into the

feminine. 

Moreover, the sentence is spoken in all the familiarity of the  local  dialecta dialect that puts any two people

at once upon equal  terms  as nothing else can do it.  Would it were possible to present  the  phrase to English

readers in all its own helpless goodhumour.  The  excellent woman who uses it is practising no eccentricity

thereby,  and raises no smile.  It is only in another climate, and amid  other  manners, that one cannot recall it

without a smile.  To a mind  having a lively sense of contrast it is not a little pleasant to  imagine an elderly

lady of corresponding station in England replying  so to importunities for alms; albeit we have nothing

answering to  the  good fellowship of a broad patois used currently by rich and  poor, and  yet slightly grotesque

in the case of all speakersa  dialect in  which, for example, no sermon is ever preached, and in  which no

book  is ever printed, except for fun; a dialect "familiar,  but by no means  vulgar."  Besides, even if our

Englishwoman could by  any possibility  bring herself to say to a mendicant, "Excuse me,  dear; I, too, am a

poor devil," she would still not have the  opportunity of putting the  last word punctually into the feminine,

which does so complete the  character of the sentence. 

The phrase at the head of this paper is the far more graceful  phrase  of excuse customary in the courteous

manners of Portugal.  And  everywhere in the South, where an almost welldressed old woman, who  suddenly

begins to beg from you when you least expected it, calls  you  "my daughter," you can hardly reply without

kindness.  Where the  tourist is thoroughly well known, doubtless the company of beggars  are used to savage

manners in the rich; but about the byways and  remoter places there must still be some dismay at the anger,

the  silence, the indignation, and the inexpensive haughtiness wherewith  the opportunity of almsgiving is

received by travellers. 

In nothing do we show how far the West is from the East so  emphatically as we show it by our lofty ways

towards those who so  manifestly put themselves at our feet.  It is certainly not pleasant  to see them there; but

silence or a storm of impersonal protesta  protest that appeals vaguely less to the beggars than to some not

impossible policedoes not seem the most appropriate manner of  rebuking them.  We have, it may be, a

scruple on the point of human  dignity, compromised by the entreaty and the thanks of the  mendicant;  but we

have a strange way of vindicating that dignity  when we refuse  to man, woman, or child the recognition of a

simply  human word.  Nay,  our offence is much the greater of the two.  It is  not merely a rough  and

contemptuous intercourse, it is the refusal  of intercoursethe  last outrage.  How do we propose to redress

those conditions of life  that annoy us when a brother whines, if we  deny the presence, the  voice, and the

being of this brother, and if,  because fortune has  refused him money, we refuse him existence? 

We take the matter too seriously, or not seriously enough, to hold  it in the indifference of the wise.  "Have

patience, little saint,"  is a phrase that might teach us the cheerful way to endure our own  unintelligible

fortunes in the midst, say, of the population of a  hillvillage among the most barren of the Maritime Alps,

where huts  of stone stand among the stones of an unclothed earth, and there is  no sign of daily bread.  The

people, albeit unused to travellers,  yet  know by instinct what to do, and beg without the delay of a  moment as

soon as they see your unwonted figure.  Let it be taken  for granted  that you give all you can; some form of

refusal becomes  necessary at  last, and the gentlestit is worth while to remember  is the most  effectual.

An indignant tourist, one who to the portent  of a puggaree  which, perhaps, he wears on a grey day, adds that

of  ungovernable  rage, is so wild a visitor that no attempt at all is  made to  understand him; and the beggars

beg dismayed but unalarmed,  uninterruptedly, without a pause or a conjecture.  They beg by rote,  thinking of

something else, as occasion arises, and all indifferent  to the violence of the rich. 


The Spirit of Place and Other Essays

HAVE PATIENCE, LITTLE SAINT 14



Top




Page No 17


It is the merry beggar who has so lamentably disappeared.  If a  beggar is still merry anywhere, he hides away

what it would so cheer  and comfort us to see; he practises not merely the conventional  seeming, which is

hardly intended to convince, but a more subtle and  dramatic kind of semblance, of no good influence upon

the morals of  the road.  He no longer trusts the world with a sight of his gaiety.  He is not a wholehearted

mendicant, and no longer keeps that liberty  of unstable balance whereby an unattached creature can go in a

new  direction with a new wind.  The merry beggar was the only adventurer  free to yield to the lighter touches

of chance, the touches that a  habit of resistance has made imperceptible to the seated and stable  social world. 

The visible flitting figure of the unfettered madman sprinkled our  literature with mad songs, and even one or

two poets of today have,  by tradition, written them; but that wild source of inspiration has  been stopped; it

has been built over, lapped and locked, imprisoned,  led underground.  The light melancholy and the

windblown joys of  the  song of the distraught, which the poets were once ingenious to  capture, have ceased

to sound one note of liberty in the world's  ears.  But it seems that the grosser and saner freedom of the happy

beggar is still the subject of a Spanish song. 

That song is gay, not defiant it is not an outlaw's or a robber's,  it is not a song of violence or fear.  It is the

random trolling  note  of a man who owes his liberty to no disorder, failure, or ill  fortune, but takes it by

choice from the voluntary world, enjoys it  at the hand of unreluctant charity; who twits the world with its

own  choice of bonds, but has not broken his own by force.  It seems,  therefore, the song of an indomitable

liberty of movement, light  enough for the puffs of a zephyr chance. 

THE LADIES OF THE IDYLL

Little Primrose dames of the English classic, the wife and  daughters  of the Vicar of Wakefield have no claim

whatever to this  name of  lady.  It is given to them in this page because Goldsmith  himself  gave it to them in

the yet undepreciated state of the word,  and for  the better reason that he obviously intended them to be the

equals  of the men to whom he marries them, those men being, with all  their  faults, gentlemen.  Goldsmith, in

a word, meant them to be  ladies,  of country breeding, but certainly fit for membership of that  large  class of

various fortune within which the name makes a  sufficient  equality. 

He, their author, thought them sufficient.  Having amused himself  ingeniously throughout the story with their

nameless vulgarities, he  finally hurries them into so much sentiment as may excuse the  convention of heroes

in love.  He plays with their coarseness like a  perfectly pleased and clever showman, and then piously and

happily  shuts up his couplesthe gentle Dr. Primrose with his abominable  Deborah; the excellent Mr.

Burchell with the paltry Sophia; Olivia  but no, Olivia is not so certainly happy ever after; she has a

captured husband ready for her in a state of ignominy, but she has  also a forgotten farmer somewhere in the

backgroundthe unhappy man  whom, with her father's permission, this sorry heroine had promised  to marry

in order that his wooing might pluck forward the lagging  suit of the squire. 

Olivia, then, plays her common trick upon the harmless Williams,  her  father conniving, with a provision that

he urges with some  demonstration of virtue:  she shall consent to make the farmer happy  if the proposal of the

squire be not after all forthcoming.  But it  is so evident her author knew no better, that this matter may pass.  It

involves a point of honour, of which no oneneither the maker of  the book nor anyone he madeis aware.

What is better worth  considering is the fact that Goldsmith was completely aware of the  unredeemed

vulgarity of the ladies of the Idyll, and cheerfully took  it for granted as the thing to be expected from the

motherinlaw of  a country gentleman and the daughters of a scholar.  The education  of  women had sunk into

a degradation never reached before, inasmuch  as it  was degraded in relation to that of men.  It would matter

little  indeed that Mrs. Primrose "could read any English book  without much  spelling" if her husband and son

were as definitely  limited to  journeyman's fieldlabour as she was to the pickling and  the  gooseberry wine.

Any of those industries is a better and more  liberal  business than unselect reading, for instance, or than


The Spirit of Place and Other Essays

THE LADIES OF THE IDYLL 15



Top




Page No 18


unselect  writing.  Therefore let me not be misunderstood to complain  too  indiscriminately of that century or of

an unlettered state.  What is  really unhandsome is the new, slovenly, and corrupt  inequality  whereinto the

century had fallen. 

That the mother of daughters and sons should be fatuous, a village  worldling, suspicious, ambitious, illbred,

ignorant, gross,  insolent, foulmouthed, pushing, importunate, and a fool, seems  natural, almost innocently

natural, in Goldsmith's story; the  squalid  Mrs. Primrose is all this.  He is still able, through his  Vicar, in  the

most charmingly humorous passage in the book, to  praise her for  her "prudence, economy, and obedience."

Her other,  more disgusting,  characteristics give her husband an occasion for  rebuking her as  "Woman!"  This

is done, for example, when, despite  her obedience, she  refuses to receive that unlucky schemer, her own

daughter, returned in  ruins, without insulting her by the sallies of  a kitchen sarcasm. 

She plots with her daughters the most disastrous fortune hunt.  She  has given them a teaching so effectual that

the Vicar has no fear  lest the paltry Sophia should lose her heart to the good, the  sensible Burchell, who had

saved her life; for he has no fortune.  Mrs. Primrose begins grotesquely, with her tedious histories of the

dishes at dinner, and she ends upon the last page, anxious, amid the  general happiness, in regard to securing

the head of the table.  Upon  these feminine humours the author sheds his Vicar's indulgent  smile.  What a

smile for a selfrespecting husband to be pricked to  smile!  A  householder would wince, one would think, at

having  opportunity to  bestow its tolerance upon his cook. 

Between these two housewifely appearances, Mrs. Primrose potters  through the book; plotsalways

squalidly; talks the worst kinds of  folly; takes the lead, with a loud laugh, in insulting a former  friend; crushes

her repentant daughter with reproaches that show  envy  rather than indignation, and kisses that daughter with

congratulation  upon hearing that she had, unconsciously and  unintentionally,  contracted a valid marriage

(with a rogue); spoils  and makes common  and unclean everything she touches; has but two  really gentle and

tender moments all through the story; and sets,  once for all, the  example in literature of the woman we find

thenceforth, in Thackeray,  in Douglas Jerrold, in Dickens, and un  peu partout. 

Hardly less unspiritual, in spite of their conventional romance of  youth and beauty, are the daughters of the

squalid one.  The author,  in making them simple, has not abstained from making them cunning.  Their vanities

are well enough, but these women are not only vain,  they are so envious as to refuse admiration to a

sisterinlawone  who is their rival in no way except in so much as she is a  contemporary beauty.  "Miss

Arabella Wilmot," says the pious father  and vicar, "was allowed by all (except my two daughters) to be

completely pretty." 

They have been left by their father in such brutal ignorance as to  be instantly deceived into laughing at bad

manners in error for  humour.  They have no pretty or sensitive instincts.  "The jests of  the rich," says the Vicar,

referring to his own young daughters as  audience, "are ever successful."  Olivia, when the squire played off  a

dullish joke, "mistook it for humour.  She thought him, therefore,  a very fine gentleman."  The powders and

patches for the country  church, the ride thither on Blackberry, in so strange a procession,  the facewash, the

dreams and omens, are all good gentle comedy; we  are completely convinced of the tedium of Mrs.

Primrose's dreams,  which she told every morning.  But there are other points of comedy  that ought not to

precede an author's appeal to the kind of  sentiment  about to be touched by the tragic scenes of The Vicar of

Wakefield. 

In odd sidling ways Goldsmith bethinks himself to give his  principal  heroine a shadow of the virtues he has

not bestowed upon  her.  When  the unhappy Williams, abovementioned, has been used in  vain by  Olivia, and

the squire has not declared himself, and she is on  the  point of keeping her word to Williams by marrying him,

the Vicar  creates a situation out of it all that takes the reader roundly by  surprise:  "I frequently applauded her

resolution in preferring  happiness to ostentation."  The good Goldsmith!  Here is Olivia  perfectly frank with

her father as to her exceedingly sincere  preference for ostentation, and as to her stratagem to try to obtain  it at


The Spirit of Place and Other Essays

THE LADIES OF THE IDYLL 16



Top




Page No 19


the expense of honour and of neighbour Williams; her mind is  as  well known to her father as her father's

mind is known to Oliver  Goldsmith, and as Oliver Goldsmith's, Dr. Primrose's, and Olivia's  minds are known

to the reader.  And in spite of all, your Goldsmith  and your Vicar turn you this phrase to your very face.  You

hardly  know which way to look; it is so disconcerting. 

Seeing that Olivia (with her chancerecovered virtue) and Sophia  may  both be expected to grow into the kind

of matronhood represented  by  their mother, it needs all the conditions of fiction to surround  the  close of their

loveaffairs with the least semblance of dignity.  Nor, in fact, can it be said that the final winning of Sophia is

an  incident that errs by too much dignity.  The scene is that in which  Burchell, revealed as Sir William

Thornhill, feigns to offer her in  marriage to the goodnatured rogue, Jenkinson, fellow prisoner with  her

father, in order that, on her indignant and distressed refusal,  he may surprise her agreeably by crying, "What?

Not have him?  If  that be the case, I think I must have you myself."  Even for an  avowedly eccentric master of

whims, this is playing with forbidden  ironies.  True, he catches her to his breast with ardour, and calls  her

"sensible."  "Such sense and such heavenly beauty," finally  exclaims the happy man.  Let us make him a

present of the heavenly  beauty.  It is the only thing not disproved, not dispraised, not  disgraced, by a candid

study of the Ladies of the Idyll. 

A DERIVATION

By what obscure cause, through what illdirected industry, and  under  the constraint of what disabling hands,

had the language of  English  poetry grown, for an age, so rigid that a natural writer at  the end  of the eighteenth

century had much ado to tell a simple story  in  sufficient verse?  All the vital exercise of the seventeenth

century  had left the language buoyant; it was as elastic as deep and  mobile  waters; then followed the grip of

that incapacitating later  style.  Much later, English has been so used as to become flaccidit  has  been

stretched, as it were, beyond its power of rebound, or  certainly beyond its power of rebound in common use

(for when a  master writes he always uses a tongue that has suffered nothing).  It  is in our own day that English

has been so overstrained.  In  Crabbe's  day it had been effectually curbed, hindered, and hampered,  and it

cannot be said of Crabbe that he was a master who takes  natural  possession of a language that has suffered

nothing.  He was  evidently  a man of talent who had to take his part with the times,  subject to  history.  To call

him a poet was a mere convention.  There seems to be  not a single moment of poetry in his work, and

assuredly if he had  known the earlier signification of the word he  would have been the  last man to claim the

incongruous title of poet.  But it is impossible  to state the question as it would have  presented itself to Crabbe

or  to any other writer of his quality  entering into the same inheritance  of English. 

It is true that Crabbe read and quoted Milton; so did all his  contemporaries; and to us now it seems that

poetry cannot have been  forgotten by any age possessing Lycidas.  Yet that age can scarcely  be said to have in

any true sense possessed Lycidas.  There are  other  things, besides poetry, in Milton's poems.  We do not

entirely  know,  perhaps, but we can conjecture how a reader in Crabbe's late  eighteenth century, looking in

Milton for authority for all that he  unluckily and vainly admired, would well find it.  He would find the

approval of Young's "Night Thoughts" did he search for it, as we who  do not search for it may not readily

understand.  A step or so  downwards, from a few passages in "Paradise Lost" and "Paradise  Regained," an

inevitable drop in the derivation, a depression such  as  is human, and everything, from Dryden to "The Vanity

of Human  Wishes,"  follows, without violence and perhaps without wilful  misappreciation.  The poet Milton

fathered, legitimately enough, an  unpoetic posterity.  Milton, therefore, who might have kept an age,  and

many a succeeding  age, on the heights of poetry by lines like  these  

Who sing and singing in their glory move 


The Spirit of Place and Other Essays

A DERIVATION 17



Top




Page No 20


by this, and by many and many another so divineMilton justified  also the cold excesses of his posterity by

the example of more than  one group of blank verse lines in his greatest poem.  Manifestly the  sanction is a

matter of choice, and depends upon the age:  the age  of  Crabbe found in Milton such ancestry as it was fit for. 

Crabbe, then, was not a poet of poetry.  But he came into  possession  of a metrical form charged by secondary

poets with a  contented  secondclass dignity that bears constant reference, in the  way of  respect rather than of

imitation, to the state and nobility of  Pope  at his bestthe couplet.  The weak yet rigid "poetry" that fell  to

his lot owed all the decorum it possessed to the mechanical  defences  and propsthe exclusions

especiallyof this manner of  versification.  The grievous thing was that, being moved to write  simply of

simple things, he had no more supple English for his  purpose.  His effort to disengage the phraselong

committed to  convention and to an exposed artificedid but prove how surely the  ancient vitality was gone. 

His preface to "The Borough, a Poem," should be duly read before  the  "poem" itself, for the prose has a

propriety all its own.  Everything is conceived with the most perfect moderation, and then  presented in a form

of reasoning that leaves you no possible ground  of remonstrance.  In proposing his subject Crabbe seems to

make an  unanswerable apology with a composure that is almost sweet.  For  instance, at some length and with

some nobility he anticipates a  probable conjecture that his work was done "without due examination  and

revisal," and he meets the conjectured criticism thus:  "Now,  readers are, I believe, disposed to treat with more

than common  severity those writers who have been led into presumption by the  approbation bestowed upon

their diffidence, and into idleness and  unconcern by the praises given to their attention."  It would not be

possible to say a smaller thing with greater dignity and gentleness.  It is worth while to quote this prose of a

"poet" who lived between  the centuries, if only in order to suggest the chastening thought,  "It is a pity that no

one, however little he may have to say, says  it  now in this form!"  The little, so long as it is reasonable, is  so

well suited in this antithesis and logic.  Is there no hope that  journalism will ever take again these graces of

unanswerable  argument?  No:  they would no longer wear the peculiar aspect of  adult innocence that was

Crabbe's. 

A COUNTERCHANGE

"Il s'est trompe de defunte."  The writer of this phrase had his  sense of that portly manner of French, and his

burlesque is fine;  butthe paradox must be riskedbecause he was French he was not  able to possess all its

grotesque mediocrity to the full; that is  reserved for the English reader.  The words are in the mouth of a

widower who, approaching his wife's tomb, perceives there another  "monsieur."  "Monsieur," again; the

French reader is deprived of the  value of this word, too, in its place; it says little or nothing to  him, whereas

the Englishman, who has no word of the precise  bourgeois  significance that it sometimes bears, but who must

use one  of two  English words of different allusionman or I gentleman  knows the  exact value of its

commonplace.  The serious Parisian,  then, sees "un  autre monsieur;" as it proves anon, there had been a

divorce in the  history of the lady, but the later widower is not yet  aware of this,  and explains to himself the

presence of "un monsieur"  in his own place  by that weighty phrase, "Il s'est trompe de  defunte." 

The strange effect of a thing so charged with allusion and with  national character is to cause an English

reader to pity the mocking  author who was debarred by his own language from possessing the  whole  of his

own comedy.  It is, in fact, by contrast with his  English that  an Englishman does possess it.  Your official, your

professional  Parisian has a vocabulary of enormous, unrivalled  mediocrity.  When  the novelist perceives this

he does not perceive  it all, because some  of the words are the only words in use.  Take  an author at his serious

moments, when he is not at all occupied  with the comedy of phrases,  and he now and then touches a word

that  has its burlesque by mere  contrast with English.  "L'Histoire d'un  Crime," of Victor Hugo, has  so many of

these touches as to be, by a  kind of reflex action, a very  school of English.  The whole incident  of the omnibus

in that grave  work has unconscious international  comedy.  The Deputies seated in the  interior of the omnibus

had  been, it will be remembered, shut out of  their Chamber by the  perpetrator of the Coup d'Etat, but each


The Spirit of Place and Other Essays

A COUNTERCHANGE 18



Top




Page No 21


had his  official scarf.  Scarfpish!"l'echarpe!"  "Ceindre l'echarpe"there  is no real  English equivalent.

Civic responsibility never was  otherwise  adequately expressed.  An indignant deputy passed his scarf  through

the window of the omnibus, as an appeal to the public, "et  l'agita."  It is a pity that the French reader, having

no simpler word,  is not  in a position to understand the slight burlesque.  Nay, the  mere  word "public," spoken

with this peculiar French good faith, has  for  us I know not what untransferable gravity. 

There is, in short, a general international counterchange.  It is  altogether in accordance with our actual state of

civilization, with  its extremely "specialized" manner of industry, that one people  should make a phrase, and

another should have and enjoy it.  And, in  fact, there are certain French authors to whom should be secured

the  use of the literary German whereof Germans, and German women in  particular, ought with all severity to

be deprived.  For Germans  often tell you of words in their own tongue that are untranslatable;  and accordingly

they should not be translated, but given over in  their own conditions, unaltered, into safer hands.  There would

be a  clearing of the outlines of German ideas, a better order in the  phrase; the possessors of an alien word,

with the thought it  secures,  would find also their advantage. 

So with French humour.  It is expressly and signally for English  ears.  It is so even in the commonest farce.

The unfortunate  householder, for example, who is persuaded to keep walking in the  conservatory "pour

retablir la circulation," and the other who  describes himself "souschef de bureau dans l'enregistrement," and

he  who proposes to "faire hommage" of a doubtful turbot to the  neighbouring "employe de l'octroi"these

and all their like speak  commonplaces so usual as to lose in their own country the perfection  of their dulness.

We only, who have the alternative of plainer and  fresher words, understand it.  It is not the least of the

advantages  of our own dual English that we become sensible of the mockery of  certain phrases that in France

have lost half their ridicule,  uncontrasted. 

Take again the common rhetoric that has fixed itself in  conversation  in all Latin languagesrhetoric that has

ceased to have  allusions,  either majestic or comic.  To the ear somewhat unused to  French this  proffers a

frequent comedy that the wellaccustomed ear,  even of an  Englishman, no longer detects.  A guard on a

French  railway, who  advised two travellers to take a certain train for fear  they should  be obliged to "vegeter"

for a whole hour in the  waitingroom of such  or such a station seemed to the less practised  tourist to be a

fresh  kind of unexpected humourist. 

One of the phrases always used in the business of charities and  subscriptions in France has more than the

intentional comedy of the  farcewriter; one of the most absurd of his personages, wearying his  visitors in the

country with a perpetual game of bowls, says to  them:  "Nous jouons cinquante centimesles benefices

seront verses  integralement e la souscription qui est ouverte e la commune pour la  construction de notre

maison d'ecole." 

"Fletrir," again.  Nothing could be more rhetorical than this  perfectly common word of controversy.  The

comic dramatist is well  aware of the spent violence of this phrase, with which every serious  Frenchman will

reply to opponents, especially in public matters.  But  not even the comic dramatist is aware of the last state of

refuse  commonplace that a word of this kind represents.  Refuse  rhetoric, by  the way, rather than Emerson's

"fossil poetry," would  seem to be the  right name for human language as some of the  processes of the several

recent centuries have left it. 

The French comedy, then, is fairly stuffed with thinS for an  Englishman.  They are not all, it is true, so finely

comic as "Il  s'est trompe de defunte."  In the report of that dull, incomparable  sentence there is enough

humour, and subtle enough, for both the  maker and the reader; for the author who perceives the comedy as

well  as custom will permit, and for the reader who takes it with the  freshness of a stranger.  But if not so keen

as this, the current  word of French comedy is of the same quality of language.  When of  the fourteen couples

to be married by the mayor, for instance, the  deaf clerk has shuffled two, a lookeron pronounces:  "Il s'est

empetre dans les futurs."  But for a reader who has a full sense of  the several languages that exist in English at


The Spirit of Place and Other Essays

A COUNTERCHANGE 19



Top




Page No 22


the service of the  several ways of human life, there is, from the mere terminology of  official France, high or

lowdaily Francea gratuitous and  uncovenanted smile to be had.  With this the wit of the report of  French

literature has not little to do.  Nor is it in itself,  perhaps, reasonably comic, but the slightest irony of

circumstance  makes it so.  A very little of the mockery of conditions brings out  all the latent absurdity of the

"sixieme et septieme arron  dissements," in the twinkling of an eye.  So is it with the mere  "domicile;" with

the aid of but a little of the burlesque of life,  the suit at law to "reintegrer le domicile conjugal" becomes as

grotesque as a phrase can make it.  Even "e domicile" merelythe  word of every shopmanis, in the

unconscious mouths of the  speakers,  always awaiting the lightest touch of farce, if only an  Englishman  hears

it; so is the advice of the police that you shall  "circuler" in  the street; so is the request, posted up, that you

shall not, in the  churches. 

So are the serious and ordinary phrases, "maison nuptiale," "maison  mortuaire," and the still more serious

"repos dominical," "oraison  dominicale."  There is no majesty in such words.  The unsuspicious  gravity with

which they are spoken broadcast is not to be wondered  at, the language offering no relief of contrast; and

what is much to  the credit of the comic sensibility of literature is the fact that,  through this general

unconsciousness, the ridicule of a thousand  authors of comedy perceives the fun, and singles out the familiar

thing, and compels that most elaborate dulness to amuse us.  US,  above all, by virtue of the custom of

counterchange here set forth. 

Who shall say whether, by operation of the same exchange, the  English poets that so persist in France may

not reveal something  within the English languageone would be somewhat loth to think so  reserved to

the French reader peculiarly?  Byron to the multitude,  Edgar Poe to the select?  Then would some of the

mysteries of French  reading of English be explained otherwise than by the plainer  explanation that has

hitherto satisfied our haughty curiosity.  The  taste for rhetoric seemed to account for Byron, and the desire of

the  rhetorician to claim a taste for poetry seemed to account for  Poe.  But, after all, PATATRAS!  Who can

say? 

RAIN

Not excepting the falling starsfor they are far less  suddenthere  is nothing in nature that so outstrips our

unready eyes  as the  familiar rain.  The rods that thinly stripe our landscape, long  shafts from the clouds, if we

had but agility to make the arrowy  downward journey with them by the glancing of our eyes, would be

infinitely separate, units, an innumerable flight of single things,  and the simple movement of intricate points. 

The long stroke of the raindrop, which is the drop and its path at  once, being our impression of a shower,

shows us how certainly our  impression is the effect of the lagging, and not of the haste, of  our  senses.  What

we are apt to call our quick impression is rather  our  sensibly tardy, unprepared, surprised, outrun, lightly

bewildered  sense of things that flash and fall, wink, and are  overpast and  renewed, while the gentle eyes of

man hesitate and  mingle the  beginning with the close.  These inexpert eyes,  delicately baffled,  detain for an

instant the image that puzzles  them, and so dally with  the bright progress of a meteor, and part  slowly from

the slender  course of the already fallen raindrop, whose  moments are not theirs.  There seems to be such a

difference of  instants as invests all swift  movement with mystery in man's eyes,  and causes the past, a

moment  old, to be written, vanishing, upon  the skies. 

The visible world is etched and engraved with the signs and records  of our halting apprehension; and the

pause between the distant  woodman's stroke with the axe and its sound upon our ears is  repeated  in the

impressions of our clinging sight.  The round wheel  dazzles it,  and the stroke of the bird's wing shakes it off

like a  captivity  evaded.  Everywhere the natural haste is impatient of  these timid  senses; and their perception,

outrun by the shower,  shaken by the  light, denied by the shadow, eluded by the distance,  makes the  lingering

picture that is all our art.  One of the most  constant  causes of all the mystery and beauty of that art is surely


The Spirit of Place and Other Essays

RAIN 20



Top




Page No 23


not that we  see by flashes, but that nature flashes on our  meditative eyes.  There  is no need for the

impressionist to make  haste, nor would haste avail  him, for mobile nature doubles upon  him, and plays with

his delays the  exquisite game of visibility. 

Momently visible in a shower, invisible within the earth, the  ministration of water is so manifest in the

coming raincloud that  the husbandman is allowed to see the rain of his own land, yet  unclaimed in the arms

of the rainy wind.  It is an eager lien that  he  binds the shower withal, and the grasp of his anxiety is on the

coming  cloud.  His sense of property takes aim and reckons distance  and  speed, and even as he shoots a little

ahead of the equally  uncertain  groundgame, he knows approximately how to hit the cloud  of his  possession.

So much is the rain bound to the earth that,  unable to  compel it, man has yet found a way, by lying in wait, to

put his price  upon it.  The exhaustible cloud "outweeps its rain,"  and only the  inexhaustible sun seems to

repeat and to enforce his  cumulative fires  upon every span of ground, innumerable.  The rain  is wasted upon

the  sea, but only by a fantasy can the sun's waste be  made a reproach to  the ocean, the desert, or the

sealedup street.  Rossetti's "vain  virtues" are the virtues of the rain, falling  unfruitfully. 

Baby of the cloud, rain is carried long enough within that troubled  breast to make all the multitude of days

unlike each other.  Rain,  as  the end of the cloud, divides light and withholds it; in its  flight  warning away the

sun, and in its final fall dismissing  shadow.  It is  a threat and a reconciliation; it removes mountains  compared

with  which the Alps are hillocks, and makes a childlike  peace between  opposed heights and battlements of

heaven. 

THE LETTERS OF MARCELINE VALMORE

"Prends garde e moi, ma fille, et couvre moi bien!"  Marceline  DesbordesValmore, writing from France to

her daughter Ondine, who  was delicate and chilly in London in 1841, has the same solicitous,  journeying

fancy as was expressed by two other women, both also  Frenchwomen, and both articulate in tenderness.

Eugenie de Guerin,  that queen of sisters, had preceded her with her own complaint, "I  have a pain in my

brother's side"; and in another age Mme. de  Sevigne  had suffered, in the course of long posts and through

infrequent  lettersa protraction of conjectured painwithin the  frame of her  absent daughter.  She phrased

her plight in much the  same words,  confessing the uncancelled union with her child that had  effaced for  her

the boundaries of her personal life. 

Is not what we call a lifethe personal lifea separation from  the  universal life, a seclusion, a division, a

cleft, a wound?  For  these women, such a severance was in part healed, made whole, closed  up, and cured.

Life was restored between two at a time of human  kind.  Did these three women guess that their sufferings of

sympathy  with their children were indeed the signs of a new and universal  healththe prophecy of human

unity? 

The sign might have been a more manifest and a happier prophecy had  this union of tenderness taken the gay

occasion as often as the sad.  Except at times, in the single case of Mme. de Sevigne, all three  far more

sensitive than the rest of the worldwere yet not  sensitive  enough to feel equally the less sharp

communication of  joy.  They  claimed, owned, and felt sensibly the pangs and not the  pleasures of  the absent.

Or if not only the pangs, at least they  were apprehensive  chiefly in that sense which human anxiety and

foreboding have lent to  the word; they were apprehensive of what  they feared.  "Are you warm?"  writes

Marceline Valmore to her child.  "You have so little to  wearare you really warm?  Oh, take care of

mecover me well."  Elsewhere she says, "You are an insolent child  to think of work.  Nurse your health, and

mine.  Let us live like  fools"; whereby she  meant that she should work with her own fervent  brain for both,

and  take the while her rest in Ondine.  If this  living and unshortened  love was sad, it must be owned that so,

too,  was the story.  Eugenie  and Maurice de Guerin were both to die soon,  and Marceline was to lose  this

daughter and another. 


The Spirit of Place and Other Essays

THE LETTERS OF MARCELINE VALMORE 21



Top




Page No 24


But set free from the condition and occasion of pain and sorrow,  this life without boundaries which mothers

have undergone seems to  suggest and to portend what the progressive charity of generations  may beand is,

in fact, though the continuity does not always  appearin the course of the world.  If a love and life without

boundaries go down from a mother into her child, and from that child  into her children again, then

incalculable, intricate, universal,  and  eternal are the unions that seemand only seemso to transcend  the

usual experience.  The love of such a mother passes unchanged  out of  her own sight.  It drops down ages, but

why should it alter?  What in  her daughter should she make so much her own as that  daughter's love  for her

daughter in turn?  There are no lapses. 

Marceline Valmore, married to an actor who seems to have "created  the classic genre" in vain, found the sons

and daughters of other  women in want.  Some of her rich friends, she avers, seem to think  that the sadness of

her poems is a habita matter of metre and  rhyme, or, at most, that it is "temperament."  But others take up

the  cause of those whose woes, as she says, turned her long hair  white too  soon.  SainteBeuve gave her his

time and influence,  succoured twenty  political offenders at her instance, and gave  perpetually to her poor.

"He never has any socks," said his mother;  "he gives them all away,  like Beranger."  "He gives them with a

different accent," added the  literary Marceline. 

Even when the stroller's life took her to towns she did not hate,  but lovedher own Douai, where the names

of the streets made her  heart leap, and where her statue stands, and Bordeaux, which was, in  her eyes, "rosy

with the reflected colour of its animating wine"  she was taken away from the country of her verse.  The

field and the  village had been dear to her, and her poems no longer trail and  droop, but take wing, when they

come among winds, birds, bells, and  waves.  They fly with the whole volley of a summer morning.  She  loved

the sun and her liberty, and the liberty of others.  It was  apparently a horror of prisons that chiefly inspired her

public  efforts after certain riots at Lyons had been reduced to peace.  The  dead were free, but for the prisoners

she worked, wrote, and  petitioned.  She looked at the sentinels at the gates of the Lyons  gaols with such eyes

as might have provoked a shot, she thinks. 

During her lifetime she very modestly took correction from her  contemporaries, for her study had hardly been

enough for the whole  art of French verse.  But SainteBeuve, Baudelaire, and Verlaine  have  praised her as

one of the poets of France.  The later critics  from  Verlaine onwardswill hold that she needs no pardon

for  certain  slight irregularities in the grouping of masculine and  feminine  rhymes, for upon this liberty they

themselves have largely  improved.  The old rules in their completeness seemed too much like  a prison to  her.

She was set about with importunate conditionsa  caesura, a  rhyme, narrow lodgings in strange towns,

bankruptcies,  salaries  astrayand she took only a little gentle liberty. 

THE HOURS OF SLEEP

There are hours claimed by Sleep, but refused to him.  None the  less  are they his by some state within the

mind, which answers  rhythmically and punctually to that claim.  Awake and at work,  without drowsiness,

without languor, and without gloom, the night  mind of man is yet not his day mind; he has nightpowers of

feeling  which are at their highest in dreams, but are night's as well as  sleep's.  The powers of the mind in

dreams, which are inexplicable,  are not altogether baffled because the mind is awake; it is the hour  of their

return as it is the hour of a tide's, and they do return. 

In sleep they have their free way.  Night then has nothing to  hamper  her influence, and she draws the emotion,

the senses, and the  nerves  of the sleeper.  She urges him upon those extremities of anger  and  love, contempt

and terror to which not only can no event of the  real  day persuade him, but for which, awake, he has perhaps

not even  the  capacity.  This increase of capacity, which is the dream's, is  punctual to the night, even though

sleep and the dream be kept at  arm's length. 


The Spirit of Place and Other Essays

THE HOURS OF SLEEP 22



Top




Page No 25


The child, not asleep, but passing through the hours of sleep and  their dominions, knows that the mood of

night will have its hour; he  puts off his troubled heart, and will answer it another time, in the  other state, by

day.  "I shall be able to bear this when I am grown  up" is not oftener in a young child's mind than "I shall

endure to  think of it in the daytime."  By this he confesses the double habit  and double experience, not to be

interchanged, and communicating  together only by memory and hope. 

Perhaps it will be found that to work all by day or all by night is  to miss something of the powers of a

complex mind.  One might  imagine  the rhythmic experience of a poet, subject, like a child, to  the time,  and

tempering the extremities of either state by messages  of  remembrance and expectancy. 

Never to have had a brilliant dream, and never to have had any  delirium, would be to live too much in the

day; and hardly less  would  be the loss of him who had not exercised his waking thought  under the  influence

of the hours claimed by dreams.  And as to  choosing between  day and night, or guessing whether the state of

day  or dark is the  truer and the more natural, he would be rash who  should make too sure. 

In order to live the life of night, a watcher must not wake too  much.  That is, he should not alter so greatly the

character of  night  as to lose the solitude, the visible darkness, or the  quietude.  The  hours of sleep are too

much altered when they are  filled by lights and  crowds; and Nature is cheated so, and evaded,  and her rhythm

broken,  as when the larks caged in populous streets  make ineffectual springs  and sing daybreak songs when

the London gas  is lighted.  Nature is  easily deceived; and the muse, like the lark,  may be set all astray as  to the

hour.  You may spend the peculiar  hours of sleep amid so much  noise and among so many people that you

shall not be aware of them;  you may thus merely force and prolong  the day.  But to do so is not to  live well

both lives; it is not to  yield to the daily and nightly rise  and fall and to be cradled in  the swing of change. 

There surely never was a poet but was now and then rocked in such a  cradle of alternate hours.  "It cannot be,"

says Herbert, "that I am  he on whom Thy tempests fell all night." 

It is in the hours of sleep that the mind, by some divine paradox,  has the extremest sense of light.  Almost the

most shining lines in  English poetrylines that cast sunrise shadowsare those of Blake,  written

confessedly from the side of night, the side of sorrow and  dreams, and those dreams the dreams of little

chimneysweepers; all  is as dark as he can make it with the "bags of soot"; but the boy's  dream of the green

plain and the river is too bright for day.  So,  indeed, is another brightness of Blake's, which is also, in his

poem,  a child's dream, and was certainly conceived by him in the  hours of  sleep, in which he woke to write

the Songs of Innocence: 

O what land is the land of dreams?

What are its mountains, and what are its streams?

O father, I saw my mother there,

Among the lilies by waters fair.

Among the lambs clothed in white,

She walk'd with her Thomas in sweet delight.

To none but the hours claimed and inspired by sleep, held awake by  sufferance of sleep, belongs such a

vision. 


The Spirit of Place and Other Essays

THE HOURS OF SLEEP 23



Top




Page No 26


Corot also took the brilliant opportunity of the hours of sleep.  In  some landscapes of his early manner he has

the very light of  dreams,  and it was surely because he went abroad at the time when  sleep and  dreams claimed

his eyes that he was able to see so spiritual  an  illumination.  Summer is precious for a painter, chiefly because

in  summer so many of the hours of sleep are also hours of light.  He  carries the mood of man's night out into

the sunshineCorot did so  and lives the life of night, in all its genius, in the presence of  a  risen sun.  In the

only time when the heart can dream of light, in  the  night of visions, with the rhythmic power of night at its

dark  noon in  his mind, his eyes see the soaring of the actual sun. 

He himself has not yet passed at that hour into the life of day.  To  that life belongs many another kind of

work, and a sense of other  kinds of beauty; but the summer daybreak was seen by Corot with the  extreme

perception of the life of night.  Here, at last, is the  explanation of all the memories of dreams recalled by these

visionary  paintings, done in earlier years than were those, better  known, that  are the Corots of all the world.

Every man who knows  what it is to  dream of landscape meets with one of these works of  Corot's first  manner

with a cry, not of welcome only, but of  recognition.  Here is  morning perceived by the spirit of the hours  of

sleep. 

THE HORIZON

To mount a hill is to lift with you something lighter and brighter  than yourself or than any meaner burden.

You lift the world, you  raise the horizon; you give a signal for the distance to stand up.  It  is like the scene in

the Vatican when a Cardinal, with his  dramatic  Italian hands, bids the kneeling groups to arise.  He does  more

than  bid them.  He lifts them, he gathers them up, far and  near, with the  upward gesture of both arms; he takes

them to their  feet with the  compulsion of his expressive force.  Or it is as when  a conductor  takes his players

to successive heights of music.  You  summon the sea,  you bring the mountains, the distances unfold

unlookedfor wings and  take an even flight.  You are but a man  lifting his weight upon the  upward road, but

as you climb the circle  of the world goes up to face  you. 

Not here or there, but with a definite continuity, the unseen  unfolds.  This distant hill outsoars that less distant,

but all are  on the wing, and the plain raises its verge.  All things follow and  wait upon your eyes.  You lift

these up, not by the raising of your  eyelids, but by the pilgrimage of your body.  "Lift thine eyes to  the

mountains."  It is then that other mountains lift themselves to  your  human eyes. 

It is the law whereby the eye and the horizon answer one another  that makes the way up a hill so full of

universal movement.  All the  landscape is on pilgrimage.  The town gathers itself closer, and its  inner harbours

literally come to light; the headlands repeat  themselves; little cups within the treeless hills open and show

their  farms.  In the sea are many regions.  A breeze is at play for  a mile  or two, and the surface is turned.  There

are roads and  curves in the  blue and in the white.  Not a step of your journey up  the height that  has not its

replies in the steady motion of land and  sea.  Things rise  together like a flock of manyfeathered birds. 

But it is the horizon, more than all else, you have come in search  of.  That is your chief companion on your

way.  It is to uplift the  horizon to the equality of your sight that you go high.  You give it  a distance worthy of

the skies.  There is no distance, except the  distance in the sky, to be seen from the level earth; but from the

height is to be seen the distance of this world.  The line is sent  back into the remoteness of light, the verge is

removed beyond  verge,  into a distance that is enormous and minute. 

So delicate and so slender is the distant horizon that nothing less  near than Queen Mab and her chariot can

equal its fineness.  Here on  the edges of the eyelids, or there on the edges of the worldwe  know  no other

place for things so exquisitely made, so thin, so  small and  tender.  The touches of her passing, as close as

dreams,  or the utmost  vanishing of the forest or the ocean in the white  light between the  earth and the air;

nothing else is quite so  intimate and fine.  The  extremities of a mountain view have just  such tiny touches as


The Spirit of Place and Other Essays

THE HORIZON 24



Top




Page No 27


the  closeness of closed eyes shuts in. 

On the horizon is the sweetest light.  Elsewhere colour mars the  simplicity of light; but there colour is effaced,

not as men efface  it, by a blur or darkness, but by mere light.  The bluest sky  disappears on that shining edge;

there is not substance enough for  colour.  The rim of the hill, of the woodland, of the meadowland,  of  the

sealet it only be far enoughhas the same absorption of  colour;  and even the dark things drawn upon the

bright edges of the  sky are  lucid, the light is among them, and they are mingled with  it.  The  horizon has its

own way of making bright the pencilled  figures of  forests, which are black but luminous. 

On the horizon, moreover, closes the long perspective of the sky.  There you perceive that an ordinary sky of

cloudsnot a thunder  skyis not a wall but the underside of a floor.  You see the clouds  that repeat each

other grow smaller by distance; and you find a new  unity in the sky and earth that gather alike the great lines

of  their  designs to the same distant close.  There is no longer an  alien sky,  tossed up in unintelligible heights

above a world that is  subject to  intelligible perspective. 

Of all the things that London has foregone, the most to be  regretted  is the horizon.  Not the bark of the trees in

its right  colour; not  the spirit of the growing grass, which has in some way  escaped from  the parks; not the

smell of the earth unmingled with the  odour of  soot; but rather the mere horizon.  No doubt the sun makes a

beautiful thing of the London smoke at times, and in some places of  the sky; but not there, not where the soft

sharp distance ought to  shine.  To be dull there is to put all relations and comparisons in  the wrong, and to

make the sky lawless. 

A horizon dark with storm is another thing.  The weather darkens  the  line and defines it, or mingles it with the

raining cloud; or  softly  dims it, or blackens it against a gleam of narrow sunshine in  the  sky.  The stormy

horizon will take wing, and the sunny.  Go high  enough, and you can raise the light from beyond the shower,

and the  shadow from behind the ray.  Only the shapeless and lifeless smoke  disobeys and defeats the summer

of the eyes. 

Up at the top of the seaward hill your first thought is one of some  compassion for sailors, inasmuch as they

see but little of their  sea.  A child on a mere Channel cliff looks upon spaces and sizes  that they  cannot see in

the Pacific, on the ocean side of the world.  Never in  the solitude of the blue water, never between the Cape of

Good Hope  and Cape Horn, never between the Islands and the West, has  the seaman  seen anything but a little

circle of sea.  The Ancient  Mariner, when  he was alone, did but drift through a thousand narrow  solitudes.  The

sailor has nothing but his mast, indeed.  And but  for his mast he  would be isolated in as small a world as that

of a  traveller through  the plains. 

Round the plains the horizon lies with folded wings.  It keeps them  so perpetually for man, and opens them

only for the bird, replying  to  flight with flight. 

A close circlet of waves is the sailor's famous offing.  His offing  hardly deserves the name of horizon.  To hear

him you might think  something of his offing, but you do not so when you sit down in the  centre of it. 

As the upspringing of all things at your going up the heights, so  steady, so swift, is the subsidence at your

descent.  The further  sea  lies away, hill folds down behind hill.  The whole upstanding  world,  with its looks

serene and alert, its distant replies, its  signals of  many miles, its signs and communications of light,  gathers

down and  pauses.  This flock of birds which is the mobile  landscape wheels and  goes to earth.  The Cardinal

weighs down the  audience with his  downward hands.  Farewell to the most delicate  horizon. 


The Spirit of Place and Other Essays

THE HORIZON 25



Top




Page No 28


HABITS AND CONSCIOUSNESS

Education might do somewhat to control the personal habits for  which  ungenerous observant men are

inclined to dislike one another.  It  has done little.  As to literature, this has had the most  curiously  diverse

influence upon the human sensitiveness to habit.  Tolstoi's  perception of habits is keener than a child's, and he

takes  them  uneasily, as a child does not.  He holds them to be the occasion,  if  not the cause, of hatred.  Anna

Karenina, as she drank her coffee,  knew that her sometime lover was dreading to hear her swallow it,  and  was

hating the crooking of her little finger as she held her  cup.  It  is impossible to live in a world of habits with

such an  apprehension  of habits as this. 

It is no wonder that Tolstoi denies to other men unconsciousness,  and even preoccupation.  With him

perception never lapses, and he  will not describe a murderer as rapt away by passion from the  details  of the

room and the observation of himself; nor will he  represent a  theologian as failingeven while he thinks out

and  decides the  question of his faithto note the things that arrest  his present and  unclouded eyes.  No habits

would dare to live under  those glances.  They must die of dismay. 

Tolstoi sees everything that is within sight.  That he sees this  multitude of things with invincible simplicity is

what proves him an  artist; nevertheless, for such perception as his there is no peace.  For when it is not the

trivialities of other men's habits but the  actualities of his own mind that he follows without rest, for him  there

is no possible peace but sleep.  To him, more than to all  others, it has been said, "Watch!"  There is no relapse,

there is no  respite but sleep or death. 

To such a mind every night must come with an overwhelming change, a  release too great for gratitude.  What

a falling to sleep!  What a  manumission, what an absolution!  Consciousness and conscience set  free from the

exacted instant replies of the unrelapsing day.  And  at  the awakening all is ready yet once more, and

apprehension begins  again:  a perpetual presence of mind. 

Dr. Johnson was "absent."  No man of "absent" mind is without some  hourly deliverance.  It is on the present

mind that presses the  burden of the present world. 

SHADOWS

Another good reason that we ought to leave blank, unvexed, and  unencumbered with paper patterns the

ceiling and walls of a simple  house is that the plain surface may be visited by the unique designs  of shadows.

The opportunity is so fine a thing that it ought  oftener  to be offered to the light and to yonder handful of long

sedges and  rushes in a vase.  Their slender grey design of shadows  upon white  walls is better than a tedious,

trivial, or anxious  device from the  shop. 

The shadow has all intricacies of perspective simply translated  into  line and intersecting curve, and pictorially

presented to the  eyes,  not to the mind.  The shadow knows nothing except its flat  designs.  It is single; it draws

a decoration that was never seen  before, and  will never be seen again, and that, untouched, varies with  the

journey of the sun, shifts the interrelation of a score of  delicate  lines at the mere passing of time, though all

the room be  motionless.  Why will design insist upon its importunate  immortality?  Wiser is the drama, and

wiser the dance, that do not  pause upon an  attitude.  But these walk with passion or pleasure,  while the

shadow  walks with the earth.  It alters as the hours  wheel. 

Moreover, while the habit of your sunward thoughts is still flowing  southward, after the winter and the

spring, it surprises you in the  sudden gleam of a northwestering sun.  It decks a new wall; it is  shed by a late

sunset through a window unvisited for a year past; it  betrays the flitting of the sun into unwonted skiesa

sun that  takes  the midsummer world in the rear, and shows his head at a  sallyporte,  and is about to alight on


The Spirit of Place and Other Essays

HABITS AND CONSCIOUSNESS 26



Top




Page No 29


an unused horizon.  So does  the grey  drawing, with which you have allowed the sun and your pot  of rushes to

adorn your room, play the stealthy game of the year. 

You need not stint yourself of shadows, for an occasion.  It needs  but four candles to make a hanging Oriental

bell play the most  buoyant jugglery overhead.  Two lamps make of one palmbranch a  symmetrical

countercharge of shadows, and here two palmbranches  close with one another in shadow, their arches

flowing together, and  their paler greys darkening.  It is hard to believe that there are  many to prefer a

"repeating pattern." 

It must be granted to them that a grey day robs of their decoration  the walls that should be sprinkled with

shadows.  Let, then, a  plaque  or a picture be kept for hanging on shadowless clays.  To  dress a room  once for

all, and to give it no more heed, is to  neglect the units of  the days. 

Shadows within doors are yet only messages from that world of  shadows which is the landscape of sunshine.

Facing a May sun you  see  little except an infinite number of shadows.  Atoms of shadow  be the  day bright

enoughcompose the very air through which you see  the  light.  The trees show you a shadow for every leaf,

and the  poplars  are sprinkled upon the shining sky with little shadows that  look  translucent.  The liveliness of

every shadow is that some light  is  reflected into it; shade and shine have been entangled as though  by  some

wild wind through their million molecules. 

The coolness and the dark of night are interlocked with the  unclouded sun.  Turn sunward from the north, and

shadows come to  life, and are themselves the life, the action, and the transparence  of their day. 

To eyes tired and retired all day within lowered blinds, the light  looks still and changeless.  So many squares

of sunshine abide for  so  many hours, and when the sun has circled away they pass and are  extinguished.  Him

who lies alone there the outer world touches less  by this long sunshine than by the haste and passage of a

shadow.  Although there may be no tree to stand between his window and the  south, and although no noonday

wind may blow a branch of roses  across  the blind, shadows and their life will be carried across by a  brilliant

bird. 

To the sick man a cloudshadow is nothing but an eclipse; he cannot  see its shape, its color, its approach, or

its flight.  It does but  darken his window as it darkens the day, and is gone again; he does  not see it pluck and

snatch the sun.  But the flying bird shows him  wings.  What flash of light could be more bright for him than

such a  flash of darkness? 

It is the pulse of life, where all change had seemed to be charmed.  If he had seen the bird itself he would have

seen lessthe bird's  shadow was a message from the sun. 

There are two separated flights for the fancy to follow, the flight  of the bird in the air, and the flight of its

shadow on earth.  This  goes across the window blind, across the wood, where it is astray  for  a while in the

shades; it dips into the valley, growing vaguer  and  larger, runs, quicker than the wind, uphill, smaller and

darker  on the  soft and dry grass, and rushes to meet its bird when the bird  swoops  to a branch and clings. 

In the great bird country of the northeastern littoral of England,  about Holy Island and the basaltic rocks, the

shadows of the high  birds are the movement and the pulse of the solitude.  Where there  are no woods to make

a shade, the sun suffers the brilliant eclipse  of flocks of pearlwhite sea birds, or of the solitary creature

driving on the wind.  Theirs is always a surprise of flight.  The  clouds go one way, but the birds go all ways:  in

from the sea or  out, across the sands, inland to high northern fields, where the  crops are late by a month.  They

fly so high that though they have  the shadow of the sun under their wings, they have the light of the  earth

there also.  The waves and the coast shine up to them, and  they  fly between lights. 


The Spirit of Place and Other Essays

HABITS AND CONSCIOUSNESS 27



Top




Page No 30


Black flocks and white they gather their delicate shadows up,  "swift  as dreams," at the end of their flight into

the clefts,  platforms,  and ledges of harbourless rocks dominating the North Sea.  They  subside by degrees,

with lessening and shortening volleys of  wings  and cries until there comes the general shadow of night

wherewith  the little shadows close, complete. 

The evening is the shadow of another flight.  All the birds have  traced wild and innumerable paths across the

midMay earth; their  shadows have fled all day faster than her streams, and have  overtaken  all the movement

of her wingless creatures.  But now it is  the flight  of the very earth that carries her clasped shadow from  the

sun. 

Footnotes: 

{1}  I found it afterwards:  it was Rebecca. 


The Spirit of Place and Other Essays

HABITS AND CONSCIOUSNESS 28



Top





Bookmarks



1. Table of Contents, page = 3

2. The Spirit of Place and Other Essays, page = 4

   3. Alice Meynell, page = 4

   4. THE SPIRIT OF PLACE, page = 4

   5. MRS. DINGLEY, page = 6

   6. SOLITUDE, page = 8

   7. THE LADY OF THE LYRICS, page = 10

   8. JULY, page = 12

   9. WELLS, page = 13

   10. THE FOOT, page = 15

   11. HAVE PATIENCE, LITTLE SAINT, page = 16

   12. THE LADIES OF THE IDYLL, page = 18

   13. A DERIVATION, page = 20

   14. A COUNTERCHANGE, page = 21

   15. RAIN, page = 23

   16. THE LETTERS OF MARCELINE VALMORE, page = 24

   17. THE HOURS OF SLEEP, page = 25

   18. THE HORIZON, page = 27

   19. HABITS AND CONSCIOUSNESS, page = 29

   20. SHADOWS, page = 29